Still helping people after 7 years, thank you kind sir for making this video, one side had stripped out (plastic does that quite easily, lame JD!) and the po put the ground strap on the other side of the voltage regulator, it corroded, showed 12.4v after some sand paper 13.4.
OPM you are a legend in your own lunch box! I have fixed mine with the same problem in 5 minutes after watching your vid. Even though the terminal did not feel loose under the screw, when removed, the terminal and the body of the reg were covered in black oxide over the contact surfaces. Before I removed it, I checked the voltage at the Reg centre term to earth and had batt V 12.6. But between the centre pin and the body of the reg was 13.2v. When I used the multimeter probe to bridge between the terminal and the reg body, small arc was seen. I did my cleanup of the reg body and the terminal with a small rotary brush in the cordless, sprayed liberally with Batt Terminal spray and reattached the terminal UNDER the reg body rather than on top. As a fellow OPM, I'm disappointed that I didn't find it without your help. All good now for another 15yrs.
Thanks a lot. You saved me $100s of dollars... I was having battery problems, replaced the battery not too long ago and the new one was dead. The yard was long and needed to get mowed, and I could not get my mower going. I jumped it off, but it would shut off as soon as I engaged the blades. I almost paid the neighbor kid to mow the yard and almost called the John Deere repair shop. I am sure they would have replaced everything or just told me to buy a new mower! A loose screw was all it was!!! I unscrewed, shined up the contact area, tightened it up, and the mower jumped off good and the battery charged up! You are the man. Thanks for taking the time to publish this.
Thanks for posting this. This was exactly my problem and was an easy fix, thanks to you. Also, in case anyone else runs into this problem, the exiting screw hole on mine was hogged out enough that the original screw would not grab sufficiently so I replaced it with a #12x3/4" which did hold fine. Thanks again!!
I have a lt160 which I bought used and it had a wiring harness burnt along with the regulator bad and after repairing both it's still heating up st the regulator and wires so could this be the same issue as the film shows, even though the wire is tight it still moves a tad if tired moving it.
Remember don’t change things you don’t need. think like a mechanic and use a voltage meter and find out where something has failed if you throw money at it it’s not guaranteed to fix it so you may have to do a little digging but it’s always worth it In the end
Very well stated about the battery voltage charging, the temperature has a lot to do with charge voltage. Something many shade tree mechanics seem to forget. But is so true. VF
I am so glad you posted this. I have gone thru so many batteries. Just got it back from John Deere dealership and still had the same problem. I am so frustrated. Maybe this will work. Thanks.
Nice video. I was thinking about the mounting hole being stripped out in the plastic housing. Perhaps this would be a good time to install a grip-sert in the housing. Then you can use a machine screw and a lock-washer to secure the ground wire. I doubt it would become loose again. Good luck!
Perfect! “old plane mechanic”, you da man!!! My 2012 John Deere X300 wasn’t charging the battery and my mind was spinning. I was an auto mechanic in my younger years and am very familiar with modern automotive charging systems but the JD’s Kawasaki engine has critical components under the flywheel and elsewhere plus OEM tech data is not readily available to consumers. I was thinking this could be a long term challenge. Like you, I first went to Google and your RUclips vid popped half a page down. Could it be this easy? YES! That ground wire was just swinging in the breeze! I tightened the screw and now my battery is charging like John Deere intended! Sure, it will probably loosen again but I’ll just add “tighten ground screw” to my annual maintenance list and hopefully stay in front of the problem. Many thanks for your wisdom and thoughtfulness to post this for the world to benefit!
Thanks, and thanks to all who have taken the time to write a comment. When I found that loose ground and noted the screw was just torquing into plastic, I figured that probably every one of these tractors built that way would eventually develop that problem. While it's always possible the lack of charging may be due to other causes, if the VR ground is the issue, this fix is simple and best of all: FREE!!
It is a very common problem. The best way to fix it is to take the cover off engine and bolt regulator on with short bolts and nuts. The idea behind the self tappers was to make changing the regulator quick and easy. Oh Yea, and to create a witch hunt and eventually cost the owner 100's of dollars.
Thanks for your technical support. This is exactly what happens to my Silverado, they add a ground cable from Neg terminal battery to the engine, then through the years, the terminal are pitted. corroded. Manufacturer cutting cost of materials, to have more profit and leave us with their fault. Missing a 5 dollar ground cable to the frame. Creed for money Fck Engineers. Regarding my John Deere, i found the same problem, no ground to electronic components, as a HVACR Mechanical Contractor, easy fix.
I have that same engine and have a issue with the valves. My rocker studs have sholder bolts and when I tighten them the valves are opened and theres no compression. I backed them off some and the valves sealed and the engine got as much as 120psi compression but the loose rocker studs just came out. The only thing left I can think of is to use washers under the studs so I can have them backed off and tightened to keep them in place.
I replaced the voltage regulater and put bolts and nuts to hold it on it still doesn't charge??? It seems like it puts out like 12v because it takes a little while for the battery to go dead
I found this exact problem on my LT110. The self tapper was loose and the battery was always going flat. The Moron at the mower shop told me it could be the "alternator" going bad. I laughed my ass off. After a closer inspection I did notice that the ground strap was very loose. I removed the cover and fitted a threaded nut and bolt. The nut being a nyloc threaded nut so it will never come loose again. Never take your mower to a mower shop, most of them will sabotage it so you have to come back. If you take some time and look at it yourself, you'd be surprised how simple these tractors are to work on. Save your money and do it yourself.
I put clips on the plastic and screwed them back with a new regulator but still heats up the regulator so I'm going to run another ground from the screw to the frame to have two and change the battery to make sure alls ok. I dont think the stator is bad. I bought it used with the main harness bad do I got a new one as long with a couple relays for the foot units and all new regulators. Cold weather got me so I'll need to finish later then sell it.
I have a scotts john deere 25hp Kohler 54" cut how do wire the battery and solenoid how many wires should be hooked to the battery and how many wires to the solenoid
Mines a lt160 and had a bad wire harness so replaced it from another guy I got it from and once done and tried it the regulator wires heats up. Replaced the regulator and added another ground strap to the deck to ground strap that's their but no change. I'll check the conector wires to see if there in different locations if I can locate the schematics
I have a John Deere LX255, 15hp Kohler, new stator, and new Voltage Regulator. Good AC volts from stator but not charging battery. What am I missing? What else might be NFG?
Do these tractors have alternators? I got one yard mowed on a brand new battery. Went out today and it wouldnt turn over..no clicking, no moaning, nothing. I jumped it and it started right up. Let it run for 30 min, shuf it off and tried to restart...same thing. Nothing at all. I'm thinking the battery is not charging while it's running. That's why I wonder if these have some sort of alternator or something. I will also try your suggestion. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Put a meter at the terminals and check your charging voltage. If it's not at least 13.4v you have a charging problem. If you shut it off all the way w/ key out and it drops below 12v you likely have a failed battery.
So you say it goes to spark plugs. Could this prevent the coils and spark plug making enough voltage to ignite air/fuel??? ThanksThe reason I ask is because I have spark but engine will not start. I have tested several things and changed everything but she still will not start.
My charger states it has overcharge protection. put my battery on charge and it reads 15.1 volts. turn the key and it don't turn over. Do I need to replace the solenoid, and battery?
Right on the money! Some people add a second ground wire (use 10 gauge wire or heavier) on the other mounting screw and connect it directly to the negative terminal on the battery. If the screws won't tighten enough for a good electrical connection, consider using bolts, Nyloc nuts and some type of lock washer for a more secure connection of the regulator to the shroud, if bigger self-tapping screws won't solve the problem (before you have to remove the shroud to install those bolts and nuts).
Looks like this solved my problem with apparently a sabotaged new mower. Never buy a mower from Home Depot. Bought a John Deere E160 for near $2,500-damn thing does not charge battery height of Summer, brand new mower! Inspected--positive wire at voltage regulator UNPLUGGED! Either some joker disconnected locking connector or possibly was caught on hood and broke loose (not likely, locking type). When I inspected the oil dip stick, it was bent as if someone intentionally bent it. Never buy mowers on display from Home Depot. Get straight from John Deere only.
Old Plane Mechanic, cool name! Now is that a reflection of the mechanic’s age? or do you only repair antique aero planes? I myself work on lawn mowers and modern helicopters…Sikorsky being my favored variety. Not much difference in the animals behavior. The are both good at noise and killing people by accident.
Hmm, yeah so I have an L130 with basically same set up ignition, charging ..anyway the "design flaw" as far as the voltage reg the yellow wire ground is obviously not factory and the mount screws for the reg. Is and should be the hard ground through the mount screws and into the regulator body housing..just mentioning
NOTE: A NEVER AGAIN John Deere horror story re my L110 follows: Hey old plane mechanic I like your style, start with the simple stuff before you start swapping out parts that are likely ok. I am sure JD service would start with new parts and like you say fix the problem. Before you go nuts replacing old parts with new take a look at the number of service hours on the machine. I am around 300 total hours after 15 years so chances are loose connections and corrosion are the cause of most problems. If you run premium fuel and change the oil, filters and plug regularly the engine will run for thousands of hours. My horror story with the local dealer revolved around replacing a buckled fuel tank on my 2004 L110. The problem was caused by a poorly designed fill cap that wasn't venting properly. The old cap (since changed) had a small pin hole vent in the top middle that plugged solid with dust over time. The result was a plastic tank that sucked inwards causing leaky seams that I caulked/sealed for a year before the leaks began again. Aside from charging me $150 to pickup (5 miles each way) and return the unit I was originally given an estimate of about $250 to replace the tank based on parts and labor. That was about my limit as the 15 year old unit only cast me $2100 new. Anymore than $250 and its DIY all the way. When they brought the unit back to me I was given a bill for $600! When I questioned the charge the Service Adviser who gave me the estimate he began explaining how much more complicated the repair was and added about $350 in labor. Like most of us, I regard any estimate as a bet that a vendor offers and you accept or decline. If they beat the time standard estimated they win, if they over shoot the estimate I win. I have never signed onto an open ended "time and materials" repair without being told upfront that these were the terms being used. Anyway, called JD HQ in Atlanta who were absolutely useless. I have called them several times on various issues and have never been treated well or had any sort of satisfaction. Bottom line is they stand behind their dealers NOT their customers, and basically ANYTHING the dealers do is ok by JD...ANYTHING! Anyway they referred me back to the dealer. Talking to the owner his first question was where did I buy the Tractor. Home Depot sold me the unit and the local dealer did the prep and delivery. He said "well we don't make any money prepping those machines and its only fair that we make some margin on the machine" as a way of justifying his ridiculous charges. Played this conversation back to JD Corp they shrugged it off and said it wasn't their problem. The machine like O P M states has a lot of little stupid design flaws that I continually need to take care of. The bolt that engages the Power Takeoff snaps every other time I run the machine and the Parking Brake mechanism falls out of its slot and needs to be reattached a few times per season. Anyone else with similar experience? I am now a committed Anybody But J D Consumer!
Seems to be a very common issue with the command engine. I have a John Deere Lt150, 2002, same exact one as yours. Im having the same exact problem. I will try this tomorrow. Glad I saw this, I was about to put a new voltage regulator in it! UPDATE: didnt work :( ordered a new regulator
If you've 7:43 to spare you can save yourself a couple bucks is the point. You have your tractor hauled to the dealership and they change the regulator, it will fix the issue. Or you can spend a couple moments and polish up and torque the connection (if it's loose) and save the money.
I personally don't feel negative comments are required. This is an instructional/informational video and @Old Plane Mechanic is trying to make the content generic enough for everyone to follow. In reviewing most of the comments, it seems he succeeded and has helped a number of people.
Still helping people after 7 years, thank you kind sir for making this video, one side had stripped out (plastic does that quite easily, lame JD!) and the po put the ground strap on the other side of the voltage regulator, it corroded, showed 12.4v after some sand paper 13.4.
OPM you are a legend in your own lunch box! I have fixed mine with the same problem in 5 minutes after watching your vid. Even though the terminal did not feel loose under the screw, when removed, the terminal and the body of the reg were covered in black oxide over the contact surfaces. Before I removed it, I checked the voltage at the Reg centre term to earth and had batt V 12.6. But between the centre pin and the body of the reg was 13.2v. When I used the multimeter probe to bridge between the terminal and the reg body, small arc was seen. I did my cleanup of the reg body and the terminal with a small rotary brush in the cordless, sprayed liberally with Batt Terminal spray and reattached the terminal UNDER the reg body rather than on top. As a fellow OPM, I'm disappointed that I didn't find it without your help. All good now for another 15yrs.
Thanks. This fixed my charging problem. Hasn't charged properly in 3 years. Now works great. Wish I had found this video earlier.
Thanks a lot. You saved me $100s of dollars... I was having battery problems, replaced the battery not too long ago and the new one was dead. The yard was long and needed to get mowed, and I could not get my mower going. I jumped it off, but it would shut off as soon as I engaged the blades. I almost paid the neighbor kid to mow the yard and almost called the John Deere repair shop. I am sure they would have replaced everything or just told me to buy a new mower! A loose screw was all it was!!! I unscrewed, shined up the contact area, tightened it up, and the mower jumped off good and the battery charged up! You are the man. Thanks for taking the time to publish this.
Awesome tutorial. Straight and to the point. I already know this will fix my problem without even looking. THX
Thanks for posting this. This was exactly my problem and was an easy fix, thanks to you. Also, in case anyone else runs into this problem, the exiting screw hole on mine was hogged out enough that the original screw would not grab sufficiently so I replaced it with a #12x3/4" which did hold fine. Thanks again!!
I have a lt160 which I bought used and it had a wiring harness burnt along with the regulator bad and after repairing both it's still heating up st the regulator and wires so could this be the same issue as the film shows, even though the wire is tight it still moves a tad if tired moving it.
Exactly what the issue was on our L130. Thanks so much for the insight!
Solid advice. I Used dielectc grease for connection. Thank you perfect 5 minute fix
I have a LT133 with the same engine and problem! Can't wait to try this! Thanks!
This solved my long standing problem. Thank You very much!
Awesome fix! Exactly what was wrong with mine; THANKS SO MUCH!
Thank you. was getting ready to tear the tractor down, and replace the stator. Your fix worked.
I truly appreciate this
Remember don’t change things you don’t need. think like a mechanic and use a voltage meter and find out where something has failed if you throw money at it it’s not guaranteed to fix it so you may have to do a little digging but it’s always worth it
In the end
Thank you very much for the money saving tip greatly appreciated.
Very well stated about the battery voltage charging, the temperature has a lot to do with charge voltage. Something many shade tree mechanics seem to forget. But is so true. VF
Just saw this video and it was the perfect fix. Thank you
Thank you, you saved me time and money! Exactly what was wrong with mine, your correct very poor design
Perfect friend. Exactly what I needed.
Thank you, right on the nose problem fixed, the red wire was unplugged !👍😊
Great video, was able to fix my charging system without spending any money
Way to go!! Excellent video. Very helpful.
Thank you sir for telling us this ! It fixed my charging problem.
I am so glad you posted this. I have gone thru so many batteries. Just got it back from John Deere dealership and still had the same problem. I am so frustrated. Maybe this will work. Thanks.
Did it work ?
Wow! Awesome Video! Thanks!!! 😃👍
Thank you! That was the problem! Thank you👍
Thanks a lot something I never thought about ,having problems seems like very simple fix . Thanks
Nice video. I was thinking about the mounting hole being stripped out in the plastic housing. Perhaps this would be a good time to install a grip-sert in the housing. Then you can use a machine screw and a lock-washer to secure the ground wire. I doubt it would become loose again. Good luck!
Sounds good
Great video--thanks for the help!
Great video. Helped immensely.
Awesome explanation! Thank you!
Dude, you saved me. Thanks
You just save my day....!!!
Great. That was my problem thanks!!
I took off connector looked fine but still cleaned with sand paper. Put it bank on started charging. Thank you very much.
Great first step to try!
Great fine guy! Thanks for sharing !!
Perfect! “old plane mechanic”, you da man!!!
My 2012 John Deere X300 wasn’t charging the battery and my mind was spinning. I was an auto mechanic in my younger years and am very familiar with modern automotive charging systems but the JD’s Kawasaki
engine has critical components under the flywheel and elsewhere plus OEM tech data is not readily available to consumers. I was thinking this could be a long term challenge.
Like you, I first went to Google and your RUclips vid popped half a page down. Could it be this easy? YES! That ground wire was just swinging in the breeze! I tightened the screw and now my battery is charging like John Deere intended! Sure, it will probably loosen again but I’ll just add “tighten ground screw” to my annual maintenance list and hopefully stay in front of the problem.
Many thanks for your wisdom and thoughtfulness to post this for the world to benefit!
Thanks, and thanks to all who have taken the time to write a comment. When I found that loose ground and noted the screw was just torquing into plastic, I figured that probably every one of these tractors built that way would eventually develop that problem.
While it's always possible the lack of charging may be due to other causes, if the VR ground is the issue, this fix is simple and best of all: FREE!!
It is a very common problem. The best way to fix it is to take the cover off engine and bolt regulator on with short bolts and nuts. The idea behind the self tappers was to make changing the regulator quick and easy. Oh Yea, and to create a witch hunt and eventually cost the owner 100's of dollars.
Thanks for your technical support. This is exactly what happens to my Silverado, they add a ground cable from Neg terminal battery to the engine, then through the years, the terminal are pitted. corroded. Manufacturer cutting cost of materials, to have more profit and leave us with their fault. Missing a 5 dollar ground cable to the frame. Creed for money Fck Engineers. Regarding my John Deere, i found the same problem, no ground to electronic components, as a HVACR Mechanical Contractor, easy fix.
Good job. Thank you
I have that same engine and have a issue with the valves. My rocker studs have sholder bolts and when I tighten them the valves are opened and theres no compression. I backed them off some and the valves sealed and the engine got as much as 120psi compression but the loose rocker studs just came out. The only thing left I can think of is to use washers under the studs so I can have them backed off and tightened to keep them in place.
Thanks a lot
I replaced the voltage regulater and put bolts and nuts to hold it on it still doesn't charge??? It seems like it puts out like 12v because it takes a little while for the battery to go dead
I found this exact problem on my LT110. The self tapper was loose and the battery was always going flat. The Moron at the mower shop told me it could be the "alternator" going bad. I laughed my ass off. After a closer inspection I did notice that the ground strap was very loose. I removed the cover and fitted a threaded nut and bolt. The nut being a nyloc threaded nut so it will never come loose again.
Never take your mower to a mower shop, most of them will sabotage it so you have to come back. If you take some time and look at it yourself, you'd be surprised how simple these tractors are to work on. Save your money and do it yourself.
Great video but I'd like to know what was revving up in the background!
Thank you!!!
I'm not sure if being a older battery will make a difference si I'll switch from my other to see
I put clips on the plastic and screwed them back with a new regulator but still heats up the regulator so I'm going to run another ground from the screw to the frame to have two and change the battery to make sure alls ok. I dont think the stator is bad. I bought it used with the main harness bad do I got a new one as long with a couple relays for the foot units and all new regulators. Cold weather got me so I'll need to finish later then sell it.
what gauge is that black ground wire on volt regular? 12 or 14?
I have a scotts john deere 25hp Kohler 54" cut how do wire the battery and solenoid how many wires should be hooked to the battery and how many wires to the solenoid
Mines a lt160 and had a bad wire harness so replaced it from another guy I got it from and once done and tried it the regulator wires heats up. Replaced the regulator and added another ground strap to the deck to ground strap that's their but no change. I'll check the conector wires to see if there in different locations if I can locate the schematics
I have a John Deere LX255, 15hp Kohler, new stator, and new Voltage Regulator. Good AC volts from stator but not charging battery. What am I missing? What else might be NFG?
Check your ground or your inline fuse
What about the other wires ... the harness part? Melted?
Do these tractors have alternators? I got one yard mowed on a brand new battery. Went out today and it wouldnt turn over..no clicking, no moaning, nothing. I jumped it and it started right up. Let it run for 30 min, shuf it off and tried to restart...same thing. Nothing at all. I'm thinking the battery is not charging while it's running. That's why I wonder if these have some sort of alternator or something. I will also try your suggestion. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Put a meter at the terminals and check your charging voltage. If it's not at least 13.4v you have a charging problem. If you shut it off all the way w/ key out and it drops below 12v you likely have a failed battery.
So you say it goes to spark plugs. Could this prevent the coils and spark plug making enough voltage to ignite air/fuel??? ThanksThe reason I ask is because I have spark but engine will not start. I have tested several things and changed everything but she still will not start.
My charger states it has overcharge protection. put my battery on charge and it reads 15.1 volts. turn the key and it don't turn over. Do I need to replace the solenoid, and battery?
Super diagnoses ❤
worked mines fixed
Right on the money! Some people add a second ground wire (use 10 gauge wire or heavier) on the other mounting screw and connect it directly to the negative terminal on the battery. If the screws won't tighten enough for a good electrical connection, consider using bolts, Nyloc nuts and some type of lock washer for a more secure connection of the regulator to the shroud, if bigger self-tapping screws won't solve the problem (before you have to remove the shroud to install those bolts and nuts).
Anonymous98 Thank you, you saved me money. I never knew this.
Helpful but my issue is 1 leg of the stater isn't producing ac
Wonder if that is why my hours display stays on draining my battery on my LT 160? Thanks
Wonderful
Looks like this solved my problem with apparently a sabotaged new mower. Never buy a mower from Home Depot. Bought a John Deere E160 for near $2,500-damn thing does not charge battery height of Summer, brand new mower! Inspected--positive wire at voltage regulator UNPLUGGED! Either some joker disconnected locking connector or possibly was caught on hood and broke loose (not likely, locking type). When I inspected the oil dip stick, it was bent as if someone intentionally bent it. Never buy mowers on display from Home Depot. Get straight from John Deere only.
Connect a ground wire to both screws.
Sounds like Tom Selleck narrating
Old Plane Mechanic, cool name! Now is that a reflection of the mechanic’s age? or do you only repair antique aero planes? I myself work on lawn mowers and modern helicopters…Sikorsky being my favored variety. Not much difference in the animals behavior. The are both good at noise and killing people by accident.
Lmao, so much for getting rite to the point.
Hmm, yeah so I have an L130 with basically same set up ignition, charging ..anyway the "design flaw" as far as the voltage reg the yellow wire ground is obviously not factory and the mount screws for the reg. Is and should be the hard ground through the mount screws and into the regulator body housing..just mentioning
thought you were going to get right to the point
He did.
I don't have the regulator. What do I do
If there is 13.7 volts but still the lamp does not switch off while the battery is charging ,what happens then ?
NOTE: A NEVER AGAIN John Deere horror story re my L110 follows: Hey old plane mechanic I like your style, start with the simple stuff before you start swapping out parts that are likely ok. I am sure JD service would start with new parts and like you say fix the problem. Before you go nuts replacing old parts with new take a look at the number of service hours on the machine. I am around 300 total hours after 15 years so chances are loose connections and corrosion are the cause of most problems. If you run premium fuel and change the oil, filters and plug regularly the engine will run for thousands of hours. My horror story with the local dealer revolved around replacing a buckled fuel tank on my 2004 L110. The problem was caused by a poorly designed fill cap that wasn't venting properly. The old cap (since changed) had a small pin hole vent in the top middle that plugged solid with dust over time. The result was a plastic tank that sucked inwards causing leaky seams that I caulked/sealed for a year before the leaks began again. Aside from charging me $150 to pickup (5 miles each way) and return the unit I was originally given an estimate of about $250 to replace the tank based on parts and labor. That was about my limit as the 15 year old unit only cast me $2100 new. Anymore than $250 and its DIY all the way. When they brought the unit back to me I was given a bill for $600! When I questioned the charge the Service Adviser who gave me the estimate he began explaining how much more complicated the repair was and added about $350 in labor. Like most of us, I regard any estimate as a bet that a vendor offers and you accept or decline. If they beat the time standard estimated they win, if they over shoot the estimate I win. I have never signed onto an open ended "time and materials" repair without being told upfront that these were the terms being used. Anyway, called JD HQ in Atlanta who were absolutely useless. I have called them several times on various issues and have never been treated well or had any sort of satisfaction. Bottom line is they stand behind their dealers NOT their customers, and basically ANYTHING the dealers do is ok by JD...ANYTHING! Anyway they referred me back to the dealer. Talking to the owner his first question was where did I buy the Tractor. Home Depot sold me the unit and the local dealer did the prep and delivery. He said "well we don't make any money prepping those machines and its only fair that we make some margin on the machine" as a way of justifying his ridiculous charges. Played this conversation back to JD Corp they shrugged it off and said it wasn't their problem. The machine like O P M states has a lot of little stupid design flaws that I continually need to take care of. The bolt that engages the Power Takeoff snaps every other time I run the machine and the Parking Brake mechanism falls out of its slot and needs to be reattached a few times per season. Anyone else with similar experience? I am now a committed Anybody But J D Consumer!
Never have had any issues with my L110.
I done that years ago and it still done nothing good on mine
But now the mower dies out when I unhook the battery charger from the battery
Seems to be a very common issue with the command engine. I have a John Deere Lt150, 2002, same exact one as yours. Im having the same exact problem. I will try this tomorrow. Glad I saw this, I was about to put a new voltage regulator in it!
UPDATE: didnt work :( ordered a new regulator
It’s different than mine, I don’t have that regulator I have a magneto ignition you have a v2 ignition
You sound like Mr MBB333 ----(psst I wont tell a soul I swear) ???
So just clean the ground wire
so when you said voltage regulator I left your video I don't have a voltage regulator
I charged my battery and it dropped to 4.5 volts
Could it really be that simple??? 🤔
right to the point are you kiddin me
If you've 7:43 to spare you can save yourself a couple bucks is the point. You have your tractor hauled to the dealership and they change the regulator, it will fix the issue. Or you can spend a couple moments and polish up and torque the connection (if it's loose) and save the money.
I personally don't feel negative comments are required. This is an instructional/informational video and @Old Plane Mechanic is trying to make the content generic enough for everyone to follow. In reviewing most of the comments, it seems he succeeded and has helped a number of people.
Why don't you relocate your voltage regulator to some metal on the mower?
this fix was a whole lot simpler.
I ran a nut and bolt through the side with the ground
Cant, the wires from the stator are not long enough.