Nice to have you here to devote some time on the early Holley....Racing fuel systems stuck in drag race only presentations. I have been around Holley's for 50 years, but learning and relearning is very welcoming to those of us from Pre-millenial carburetion. I used to read on the old myfunforum comments by DeepRoots ? Detail is something missing a lot from others in the carb game, Keep the detail coming👍
Have you ever drilled out/removed the internal IFR and tapped either of the external locations for tuning purposes? I have an 80145 Holley I did that to but haven't tried the carb out yet to see how it works out. The IFR was tiny in that carb, .025". Small even for a 600. I had to take the IFR on the 1850-5 I'm currently running from .027" to .029" to make it run right. Interesting the Ford carbs have emulsion tubes and the internal IFR vs the more generic blocks having the IFR's external and the emulsion holes in the metering block itself. Is there really that much of a difference that Ford specified them be made that way? I have an 1850-5 Holley and did have an 80457 and for those supposed to being pretty much the same carb the 80457 had the internal IFR and emulsion tubes where the 1850 has emulsion holes in the block and external IFR.
Yes of course I’ve removed internal ifr. Many times one has been drilled to .040 or something crazy. A #35 bit can catch ifr and spin it out. I typically insert replacement in low position on block face. Not a huge difference really, very slightly more stable a/f at idle with large cams… very minor tho honestly. Most early 1850s had internal ifr at .026 with a .067 iab, so your 600 isn’t too far off. Personally I like .026/.063 for most mild engines with a single 600, but as always it varies
@@Airfuelspark I need a pin gauge set. When I measured it the shank of a .027" bit fit the hole but pretty snug, so it may have been .026". I had issues with an off idle surge in cold weather and issues with cold starts and the engine wanting to die right after startup kicking the high idle down off the highest cam and it would always want to die when putting it into gear unless it was warmed up good no matter how the choke pull off or high idle was set. All those problems went away with .029" IFR and the AFR is still good at light throttle cruising and acceleration on the transfer slot. Amazing how sensitive that adjustment is. I actually took that IFR from the lower location and moved it to the upper location just to experiment. Not sure if it's because it now has the correct amount of fuel, but the off idle throttle response became much crisper and more responsive when driving. Then after that I had to reduce the PVCR from what I measured .044" to .034" to keep it from blowing black smoke on mid throttle acceleration. For how much gas that 390 sucks naturally it sure is sensitive.
@@Airfuelspark When you say heat them up to get the solder out to clean the tube. I heated them and let the solder out the end, should I resolder the lower part of the tube?
Nice to have you here to devote some time on the early Holley....Racing fuel systems stuck in drag race only presentations. I have been around Holley's for 50 years, but learning and relearning is very welcoming to those of us from Pre-millenial carburetion. I used to read on the old myfunforum comments by DeepRoots ? Detail is something missing a lot from others in the carb game, Keep the detail coming👍
*obi wan voice*
That is a name I have not heard in a very long time….
Thanks for this video! Informative . should have seen this 40 year s ago!
great vid.
necro-post here. Why not use the cut-flat easy-out on both? Why risk drill-out damage if easy-out works so easy? Thanks.
Is any sealant needed when reinstalling or just press fit back into the metering block?
Press fit. If for some reason it is loose, a small weak sealant wouldn’t hurt
Have you ever drilled out/removed the internal IFR and tapped either of the external locations for tuning purposes? I have an 80145 Holley I did that to but haven't tried the carb out yet to see how it works out. The IFR was tiny in that carb, .025". Small even for a 600. I had to take the IFR on the 1850-5 I'm currently running from .027" to .029" to make it run right. Interesting the Ford carbs have emulsion tubes and the internal IFR vs the more generic blocks having the IFR's external and the emulsion holes in the metering block itself. Is there really that much of a difference that Ford specified them be made that way? I have an 1850-5 Holley and did have an 80457 and for those supposed to being pretty much the same carb the 80457 had the internal IFR and emulsion tubes where the 1850 has emulsion holes in the block and external IFR.
Yes of course I’ve removed internal ifr.
Many times one has been drilled to .040 or something crazy. A #35 bit can catch ifr and spin it out. I typically insert replacement in low position on block face. Not a huge difference really, very slightly more stable a/f at idle with large cams… very minor tho honestly.
Most early 1850s had internal ifr at .026 with a .067 iab, so your 600 isn’t too far off.
Personally I like .026/.063 for most mild engines with a single 600, but as always it varies
@@Airfuelspark I need a pin gauge set. When I measured it the shank of a .027" bit fit the hole but pretty snug, so it may have been .026". I had issues with an off idle surge in cold weather and issues with cold starts and the engine wanting to die right after startup kicking the high idle down off the highest cam and it would always want to die when putting it into gear unless it was warmed up good no matter how the choke pull off or high idle was set. All those problems went away with .029" IFR and the AFR is still good at light throttle cruising and acceleration on the transfer slot. Amazing how sensitive that adjustment is. I actually took that IFR from the lower location and moved it to the upper location just to experiment. Not sure if it's because it now has the correct amount of fuel, but the off idle throttle response became much crisper and more responsive when driving. Then after that I had to reduce the PVCR from what I measured .044" to .034" to keep it from blowing black smoke on mid throttle acceleration. For how much gas that 390 sucks naturally it sure is sensitive.
Do you need to resoulder the imultion tubes?
Resoulder?
Not sure what that means. Nothing needs to be done aside from reinstalling them once cleaned.
@@Airfuelspark When you say heat them up to get the solder out to clean the tube. I heated them and let the solder out the end, should I resolder the lower part of the tube?
@@weswest513 ahh. Yes. If you went that far, you need to for sure. Just the bottom tip.
Thank you. I will be ordering some mini freeze plugs from you soon. Appreciate it.