That little drilled hole in the newer bowl also stops drippage from the nozzle if you're percolating fuel at shutoff. It gives the fuel a place to run back to instead of the squirters leaking into the manifold.. .011 bit is what use.
I recently rebuilt a holley 750..accelerator pump was leaking... got a rebuild kit had it rebuilt and now no fuel squirts out of the squirter...fuel pressure is good and fuel level is set correctly.... starts and runs fine..but when i press the pedal hard on takeoff it goes dead...acceleratorpump clearing is 10thousands...ive did everything..any advice is appreciated
Awesome inventory and knowledge. Could you please tell me what year the check ball stopped and the first year of the umbrella check valve? I've been looking for awhile so I can identify a fuel bowl that has been transplanted on a carb of a different year. Thank you.
Hey, i have a couple 4160 carbs. 1 i got new + 1 used. Im rebuilding 1 + ended up taking the new 1 apart 2, because there isnt a secondary metering body plate on either one of them. They just have the sec metering body, then the sec metering body gasket, and then the bowl gasket. Do they just not use the sec plate now ? Thanks dave
4150 has 2 metering blocks (some with 4 corner idle and some not), 4160 has only the front one with a plate on the back instead of a metering block . They also each use different length fuel lines if they are dual feed.
Metering block on primary. Metering plate on secondary for 4160. A 4150 has blocks on both as Justin said. I think this is what you are asking. If you mean: secondary side: gasket, steel sheet, gasket, metering plate. Yes, new ones often leave out the steel sheet.
The one benefit to the old style. If on shut down the fuel boils in the pump it goes back to the bowl. New style is sealed so would leak into engine via nozzle
@@bobbyseaton7127 How big of a pump cam are you using and how is everything adjusted? I believe the brown and yellow cams require a 50 cc accelerator pump.
I have a 3310-4 , 4160. I had the accelerator pump stop delivering gas through the nozzle. The pump and pump arm would not move. It acted like the outlet of the pump to the squirter nozzle were plugged. I took the carburetor off the car, and took the nozzle off. I actuated the throttle and it was still plugged. I was able to wiggle the nozzle check and remove it. The pump would now actuate. I polished the outlet nozzle check, the put the carburetor back together, and it ran well. Then the trird time out with the car, the accelerator pump quit working again. The same problem of the pump not moving because it appears the outlet is plugged. What do you think about this situation. What am I missing. When I say it is plugged, I am saying so plugged the arm wont even move. Is something holding that needle down. Hope to hear your advice.
Just seeing this comment. I’m going through the exact same thing. Fuel in the bowl but not squirting and pump is hard. Did you ever find out what was causing this issue? I also have a 3310-4
I ended up buying a new rebuild kit . The kit had another needle check, so I decided to just change that out. It worked and has not stuck since. I noticed the old one seemed thinner like it was kind of worn. I have no idea how it could have stuck down so hard but it did. Must have got wedged .
I have the same problem when it doesn't run for 2 are 3 weeks. [383 sbc] I bought brass needles and same thing happend.so I don't know what to do next.
Very interesting video, I have a Holly 4150 carburetor, I'm not getting gas from the squirter valve, I have replaced accelerater pump diaphragm, drilled squirter valve 30 thousandth, still no gas, float level is correct, I can prime the carburetor and it starts fine, no gas flow problem, fuel pump works fine, what do you think could be the problem. SUBSCRIBED
If you can push pump lever and it is easy to push, the fuel is spraying back into the bowl. If very hard to push, I’ve had the small check needle get stuck. Basically some small amount of corrosion causes the needle to seize to the seat. Remove pump nozzle and screw. Needle will be visible, spray a little carb cleaner in there and let it sit. Take a small tool and try to wiggle the check needle back and forth, see if you can remove it. If so, oil and reinstall.
Hey pal, new to your channel, I have two 600 cam Holley carbs ,the accelerator pump in both carbs, I put a new pump diaphragm and they both leak at the accelerator pump cover,can you help me please,nice channel
Very professional
U have learned some
Awesome skills our hobby needs
i have used an end mill to convert a check ball pump to an umbrella check once. the remaining metal was quite thin, but it worked.
Thank fo great video helpful
That little drilled hole in the newer bowl also stops drippage from the nozzle if you're percolating fuel at shutoff. It gives the fuel a place to run back to instead of the squirters leaking into the manifold.. .011 bit is what use.
Hey Gordon I have this problem with my quick fuel carb dribbling from the nozzle did you have to change cam or nozzle to make up for the hole
thank you for this info .
Man I wish you were close to me I need one rebuilt good info
5:23 best part
“It wasn’t me honest, it was the accelerator pump!” 😂
Thanks for the video.. 👍
thanks for the info
Very Good!
I'm getting an antique
Holley 3 barrel
950 and I have read where the ball was left out and caused many issues etc !!!
I recently rebuilt a holley 750..accelerator pump was leaking... got a rebuild kit had it rebuilt and now no fuel squirts out of the squirter...fuel pressure is good and fuel level is set correctly.... starts and runs fine..but when i press the pedal hard on takeoff it goes dead...acceleratorpump clearing is 10thousands...ive did everything..any advice is appreciated
Awesome inventory and knowledge. Could you please tell me what year the check ball stopped and the first year of the umbrella check valve? I've been looking for awhile so I can identify a fuel bowl that has been transplanted on a carb of a different year. Thank you.
Perhaps a dumb question but couldn't you solder/braze those bars in place? Maybe I'm missing something. Figured I'd ask.
What happens when the umbrella seal not fully installed? Would it cause a stumble?
Great info thanks for sharing
I got a 650 Holly.I can't get the pump to spray.
Hey, i have a couple 4160 carbs. 1 i got new + 1 used. Im rebuilding 1 + ended up taking the new 1 apart 2, because there isnt a secondary metering body plate on either one of them. They just have the sec metering body, then the sec metering body gasket, and then the bowl gasket. Do they just not use the sec plate now ? Thanks dave
4150 has 2 metering blocks (some with 4 corner idle and some not), 4160 has only the front one with a plate on the back instead of a metering block . They also each use different length fuel lines if they are dual feed.
Metering block on primary. Metering plate on secondary for 4160. A 4150 has blocks on both as Justin said.
I think this is what you are asking.
If you mean: secondary side: gasket, steel sheet, gasket, metering plate.
Yes, new ones often leave out the steel sheet.
Interesting, seems like the new style would be pretty desirable, hopefully the rubber stop is silicone and not nitrile rubber.
The one benefit to the old style. If on shut down the fuel boils in the pump it goes back to the bowl.
New style is sealed so would leak into engine via nozzle
What would cause the umbrella to tear? Race application 2 months in and 4 umbrellas torn? Almost after every race?
I don’t work on enough new ones to have seen that.
My thoughts would be to look into fuel quality first.
@@Airfuelspark it's from the pumps, I don't run race fuel.
@@bobbyseaton7127 How big of a pump cam are you using and how is everything adjusted? I believe the brown and yellow cams require a 50 cc accelerator pump.
someone who has this tool to install booster bought it
where would be best place to send holley carb to have it rebuilt? thxs
Depends what you need really. I always think a small personal shop has the best ability to help you.
@@Airfuelspark thxs
I have a 3310-4 , 4160. I had the accelerator pump stop delivering gas through the nozzle. The pump and pump arm would not move. It acted like the outlet of the pump to the squirter nozzle were plugged. I took the carburetor off the car, and took the nozzle off. I actuated the throttle and it was still plugged. I was able to wiggle the nozzle check and remove it. The pump would now actuate. I polished the outlet nozzle check, the put the carburetor back together, and it ran well. Then the trird time out with the car, the accelerator pump quit working again. The same problem of the pump not moving because it appears the outlet is plugged. What do you think about this situation. What am I missing. When I say it is plugged, I am saying so plugged the arm wont even move. Is something holding that needle down. Hope to hear your advice.
For testing reasons. Take check out. Reassemble and see. Maybe screw it too long and holding down.
Just seeing this comment. I’m going through the exact same thing. Fuel in the bowl but not squirting and pump is hard. Did you ever find out what was causing this issue? I also have a 3310-4
I ended up buying a new rebuild kit . The kit had another needle check, so I decided to just change that out. It worked and has not stuck since. I noticed the old one seemed thinner like it was kind of worn. I have no idea how it could have stuck down so hard but it did. Must have got wedged .
I have the same problem when it doesn't run for 2 are 3 weeks. [383 sbc] I bought brass needles and same thing happend.so I don't know what to do next.
Very interesting video, I have a Holly 4150 carburetor, I'm not getting gas from the squirter valve, I have replaced accelerater pump diaphragm, drilled squirter valve 30 thousandth, still no gas, float level is correct, I can prime the carburetor and it starts fine, no gas flow problem, fuel pump works fine, what do you think could be the problem. SUBSCRIBED
If you can push pump lever and it is easy to push, the fuel is spraying back into the bowl.
If very hard to push, I’ve had the small check needle get stuck. Basically some small amount of corrosion causes the needle to seize to the seat.
Remove pump nozzle and screw. Needle will be visible, spray a little carb cleaner in there and let it sit.
Take a small tool and try to wiggle the check needle back and forth, see if you can remove it. If so, oil and reinstall.
@@Airfuelspark OK, THANKS alot that's the best information I've found so far on the accelerater pump, I hope this solves the problem.
@@Airfuelspark I have the same problem on sbc 383 after it sets for 2 are 3 weeks on my air boat.
how do i contact you to send you a holley 750 duel line double pumper to rebuild. I believe it is a 4150 model.
AirFuelSpark78@gmail
Hey pal, new to your channel, I have two 600 cam Holley carbs ,the accelerator pump in both carbs, I put a new pump diaphragm and they both leak at the accelerator pump cover,can you help me please,nice channel
Make sure pump cover and bowl mating surface are flat. Not a common issue with older thicker covers, but the new thinner types can warp pretty badly.