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@@EMFAudio mine I had to take of the cover and on the back there was a very small what looked like a potentiometer In ea gauge. Again mine was a lot older. A part you should find just they calibrate.
Did you say you could charge the ultracaps with the automatic battery chargers if it was 6v capable? I cant find a manual battery charger and need to charge my caps and as you stated the 12v setting does not work. Thank you for your time.
I can't say for sure as every smart charger may handle it differently, but it's possible. A manual 6v charger would be better, even a 2 amp. That should take it up to about 9v where an automatic 12v charger would pick up and be fine.
EMF Audio yeah thats the problem... i cannot find a damn manu charger anywhere!!! They are all stupid auto ones. Ill try the 6v charge to 8 and then 12 the rest of the way... trial and error
I have a DC clamp meter good for up to 600 amps. It will not show negative ratings and must be oriented in the correct direction per arrow on the meter. When testing alternator current at the battery which way should the arrow point? Towards the battery or towards the alternator? Similarly, when testing at the amplifier which way does the arrows point? Towards the battery or towards the amplifier? The manual for the meter says point the arrow in the direction of current flow.
ditto The current flows from your battery to your amplifier, the current flows from your alternator towards your battery, imagine if the current (electricity)was water in a hose (the wires)hope that helps.
DC is direct current or one way, ac is alternating current flows back in forward. You meter must have some kind of ac function. There are things in the automotive field that do run ac converting DC to AC then back to DC. Mostly in the big truck field.
@@trecedaves3159 It does have AC but it does not read DC in negative values. It just gives a lower reading. I figured it out. I was confused about which way the arrow needed to point from alternator to battery. 256 amps pointing towards the battery and 248 amps pointing towards the alternator. That is in rush starting current. The wonky reading when the meter is backwards was messing with my head but apparently some meters will do this. Thanks for your reply.
Sometimes when I start my car my voltage is around 11.5-12v, other times it runs at the usual ~14v and then sometimes it will drop down to 11.5v from there if I crank the stereo and will stay at 11.5v even if I turn off the stereo, so I bought a clamp meter, stereo is only pulling ~30A, why does my voltage fluctuate in between starts of the car? (P.S. I have a stinger 10 farad capacitor and have the voltmeter wired to the input of the subwoofer amplifier after the capacitor) (P.S. PT.2, my capacitor starts beeping when the voltage drops below about 11.2v I'm pretty sure so when the voltage from the car drops to about there, it will constantly beep from voltage drops from the stereo blasting HELP)
For starters, get that cap out of there. It's doing nothing for you and might be related to your problem. Now for the actual issue, check all your connections from the alternator, to battery, to fuses, to amp, everything. Power and grounds, check for secure connections. It's also possible your car is turning the alternator off if it's a 2005 or newer.
@@EMFAudio Yes it is a 2015 hyundai elantra 1.8l with a 90 amp alternator and I have checked all connections already other than on the alternator itself and all of them seem fine, and is there any way to prevent the alternator from turning off?
Exo just used that same machine to test batteries and found out it was off by 100amps at times!!
It seems mine is way off down low but closer to the highest it can do it's much closer.
Thank You!
Now my golf cart is ready to play it’s four 18’s full blast!
Btw... I did not know busses used those caps.
Can't smack this on others as hard as you did!
very nice tech stuff Tuesday this week! Thankyou.
hmm those look suspiciously like definitely an xs power super cells XD. also, do you offer individual cells or just cased cells?
emfcaraudio.com/collections/super-capacitors-1
Great video Sean. -Aaron@DS18
I’m interested in this one. Helps when explaining to to someone.
Hey can I ask you a question?
Interesting video. You can calibrate your Chicago tester. I had a similar one with a Dwell meter and amp meter. Was older but I had to calibrate it.
How exactly do you calibrate it?
@@EMFAudio mine I had to take of the cover and on the back there was a very small what looked like a potentiometer In ea gauge. Again mine was a lot older. A part you should find just they calibrate.
I'll open it up and take a look. Mine has what I believe to be a 2004 date code on it, which is very possible I got it then.
Did you say you could charge the ultracaps with the automatic battery chargers if it was 6v capable? I cant find a manual battery charger and need to charge my caps and as you stated the 12v setting does not work. Thank you for your time.
I can't say for sure as every smart charger may handle it differently, but it's possible. A manual 6v charger would be better, even a 2 amp. That should take it up to about 9v where an automatic 12v charger would pick up and be fine.
EMF Audio yeah thats the problem... i cannot find a damn manu charger anywhere!!! They are all stupid auto ones. Ill try the 6v charge to 8 and then 12 the rest of the way... trial and error
@@wwmclawhorn1 www.harborfreight.com/10250-amp-12v-manual-charger-with-engine-start-60581.html
Only buy your caps from emf car audio... Emf car audio lists no caps
emfcaraudio.com/collections/super-capacitors-1 totally not an entire category listed to click on, which leads to that.
Are the Banhammer 12" coming back? I noticed they were sold out
I've entertained the idea of waiting till the 15's sell out and doing a v2 on both, not sure what I'm doing yet.
21:16 Chicago smokin'
They do that at high current, totally normal. It generates A LOT of heat, it's dead shorting that much amperage basically.
I have a DC clamp meter good for up to 600 amps. It will not show negative ratings and must be oriented in the correct direction per arrow on the meter. When testing alternator current at the battery which way should the arrow point? Towards the battery or towards the alternator? Similarly, when testing at the amplifier which way does the arrows point? Towards the battery or towards the amplifier? The manual for the meter says point the arrow in the direction of current flow.
Toward the direction of flow.
ditto
The current flows from your battery to your amplifier, the current flows from your alternator towards your battery, imagine if the current (electricity)was water in a hose (the wires)hope that helps.
DC is direct current or one way, ac is alternating current flows back in forward. You meter must have some kind of ac function. There are things in the automotive field that do run ac converting DC to AC then back to DC. Mostly in the big truck field.
@@trecedaves3159 It does have AC but it does not read DC in negative values. It just gives a lower reading. I figured it out. I was confused about which way the arrow needed to point from alternator to battery. 256 amps pointing towards the battery and 248 amps pointing towards the alternator. That is in rush starting current. The wonky reading when the meter is backwards was messing with my head but apparently some meters will do this. Thanks for your reply.
Sometimes when I start my car my voltage is around 11.5-12v, other times it runs at the usual ~14v and then sometimes it will drop down to 11.5v from there if I crank the stereo and will stay at 11.5v even if I turn off the stereo, so I bought a clamp meter, stereo is only pulling ~30A, why does my voltage fluctuate in between starts of the car? (P.S. I have a stinger 10 farad capacitor and have the voltmeter wired to the input of the subwoofer amplifier after the capacitor) (P.S. PT.2, my capacitor starts beeping when the voltage drops below about 11.2v I'm pretty sure so when the voltage from the car drops to about there, it will constantly beep from voltage drops from the stereo blasting HELP)
For starters, get that cap out of there. It's doing nothing for you and might be related to your problem. Now for the actual issue, check all your connections from the alternator, to battery, to fuses, to amp, everything. Power and grounds, check for secure connections. It's also possible your car is turning the alternator off if it's a 2005 or newer.
@@EMFAudio Yes it is a 2015 hyundai elantra 1.8l with a 90 amp alternator and I have checked all connections already other than on the alternator itself and all of them seem fine, and is there any way to prevent the alternator from turning off?
@@trogers2120 Where did you get the 30 amp reading from exactly? I don't know of a way to override ECU control in that car.
@@EMFAudio I got the 30 amp reading from the ground cable going to the body in the trunk
@@trogers2120 Check it on the power wire going into the amp.
Maybe you should use a battery.
Maybe if I had extra batteries I wasn't using I would have.
I connect all my cells in parallel to balance them.
That's before I charge the banks .
You parallel them all then put 2v into them?
@@EMFAudio parallel just to balance the cells.
And back in series to charge the banks
@@krystaldelacruz2010 So you're putting them in parallel BEFORE charging them?
@@EMFAudio only if they are unbalance.
@@krystaldelacruz2010 But if they aren't charged, they can't be balanced or unbalanced, because they aren't charged.