How to sharpen your circular saw blades, the easy way.
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- Опубликовано: 1 янв 2015
- Do you have a pile of dull circular saw blades sitting around?
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This is what you need to do to make them like new again. 
Хобби
Awesome vid. Only tip I would add is take a sharpie & put a little tick mark at your starter tooth so you know when you have made a full circle.
Take it from a pro, a 9YO girl just gave you a pro tip, saves you having to constantly check where you are up to.
You don't need to use a sharpie, all you need is a piece of chalk. Back in the 70's I had a sharpening business but, the recession blew me out of the water, so I closed shop. There are grinding wheels that are cheaper than diamond that will sharpen carbide also. They also come in various grits so the carbide is polished.
thorlo6 u
Maybe a crayon?
Crayon, sharpie, drop of your blood...whatever. I just choose sharpie because aside from a pencil its the most likely marking instrument i have on me whenever I'm working on a job
Thanks you very much,I purchased the diamond blade,put it in my table saw, & in 5 minutes had sharpened my first blade,works like a charm,I have since made a sliding table,to place the blade on.
I'm a carpenter for 45 years now, and use this method for a long time and saved so much money allready. I never thought putting it on to the net. great job man. five stars *****
Says five stars, gives three.
and beeing a carpenter for 45 years seeing how he sharpens all teets at 90% does not ring a bell at all?
Ron Verburg hygiene. Orpdgu
V
Hi ya. New to this sharpening saw blade. Isn't every second tooth a different angle.??
@@DixonChanWansometimes more so on ATB ripping blades my fine cut ATB 80tooth has the same face angle on each tooth.
Thank You Very Much for sharing your experience with everyone here on youtube. I have a bunch of them to sharpen. I use some of my carbide blades to cut like sheet metal roofing panels with and that is pretty rough on blades. Was lucky to find your site here. The old craft of saw sharpening shops are pretty much gone today so your method here will help many of us for sure.
Great informative video, now I can get to work sharpening all my old blades hanging above the work bench. thanks.
Good video. Been calibrating my 10" radial arm saw. Found about a dozen old blades. Definitely will invest the 40 bucks or so for a diamond blade for my bench saw. Thanks for the video.
Good idea. I have a stack of older table saw blades thinking I would send them out for sharpening. I'll try your system.
"...limited edition drywall jig...." hahaha
Loved the idea and the limited edition drywall gig, subscribed.
you have opened our minds to what can be done.
Damn nice video! You solved a expensive problem. This concept would apply to sharpening a variety of edged tools. Can't believe I haven't run into this idea before. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I like the drywall jig...great idea!
Great video man !! Thanks !! I just bought a Shop Smith with some dull blades. I'm going to get a diamond wheel and touch 'em up. I used to watch my Dad sharpen his blades with a file and re-set them .... long process. My only suggestion is that blades do have "set" from tooth to tooth, side to side that needs to be duplicated. It varies from blade to blade. As for all the "experts" boo hooing let them. EVERYBODY is a critic these days it seems, everybody is a friggin ARMCHAIR EXPERT. I hear what they're saying, but the average Joe isn't about to go out and drop $200 for a few blades to use around the house ... not if he's smart, in my "humble" opinion !! . I for one appreciate your helpful video. You just made my life a LOT easier. You just bought $50 blades for ZIP and these clowns are critiquing your process ? REALLY ?? I think you did the smart thing ! Let THEM by the $50 blades and throw them out. I'll be out there trying to beat you to the deals !! LOL !! Carry on ma-man !!
your dad sharpening (with file) is steel only blade. carbide can not be sharpened with a file or arkansas stone (because those steel and stone is softer than carbide). that is why OP used diamond because it is harder than carbide.
Love it, thanks. I have a few blades with canted teeth so I modified your method a little with success. I cut a 1"thick piece of wood at the same angle that the tooth is angled (around 15 deg) long ways on the flat surface (kinda like ripping) and used that for my blade rest. Started with the rest angle pointed to my right and sharpened every other tooth matching the profile to the angle then flipped the blade and rest and sharpened the others. I hope that this is understandable. Maybe I will make a video some day but I'm camera shy.
You don't need to be on camera,just show and talk,I want to see the method
Thanks for the great video and information. I'm retired now so it's good to save a buck whenever possible. And to think I was just about to purchase a new blade when I have a pile of expensive saw blades that can be easily sharpened.
Great idea , I am glad I saved my old blades . They are all around $ 50. and up ( 12 " blades ) . Thanks for sharing
I love the limited edition drywall jig lol!
Awesome vid bro
I've been using a diamond wheel on my 3.5" grinder to sharpen spade bits for years, works great.
Buddy, you just saved me tons of money!
Interesting technique. I remember as a kid taking my Dad's blades to get sharpened and it cost a whopping 25 cents a tooth. This is cheaper. 8:18 reminded me of the original Batman episodes where his nemesis's were always trying to run Batman through a large blade.
Sam thank you for the tutorial. I'm going to try your method.
6:39 one like that I'd sharpen and use it as a remodeling blade that way if you hit a nail you're not out anything. Good for cutting pallets, too, if you don't have a metal detector. (I don't and I'm not risking my $200 Forrest MADE IN AMERICA blade on anything risky.) Like you I got a bunch of old used blades with my TS when I bought it used. It came with some interesting steel ones, like a tenoning blade which is super thick so there's no vibration. I don't use it often but when I do I'm glad I've sharpened it. Great vid, thanks for sharing!
Never saw those sharping blade this is a money saver big time. Thanks.
I do not think they sell it as a sharpening blade. It is more of a dry cut tile saw blade I think? It just has industrial diamonds embedded in it. I imagine the smoothest blade you can get would be best.
Funny how careful people are these days. When I did metalwork at school, the only health and safety equipment we had was a blue apron! Nice Duke btw.
I agree
Lol kids today put a respirator on to use the bathroom it's so funny
Yeah it's called the "Nanny State" these days
I wear dust masks because the next day I'm coughing and hacking up dust/fine shavings of both metal and wood. Haven't you ever noticed your snot after you've been working in a dusty place and/or sawing/filing? If that crap is in your snot, it got to your nose. If it got to your nose, you've breathed it in. Breathed it in? It's in your lungs. No worries for anyone who doesn't want to wear protective gear bc it's their choice. For me, I can't firkin' stand all the coughing and hacking the next day. Bugs the crap outta me. And anyone nearby who has to listen to it.
I have no problem admitting that I'm a soft millenial pussy, but at least, I'm a healthy twat. Not to mention that I'm a festool fanboy 😅😅💳💳
Thanks for the insight and for the practical application. Congrats to you for thinking outside the box! And, thanks for the video
Awesome video, I’ve been looking at sharpeners but I’m retired mechanic and with some ingenuity I can make a simple holding fixture out of oak and a 5/8 dowel or something else and have at it
I like the video. Very peaceful person. Not big deal and job done. Cheap and easy. Congratulation.
You know what I have always just bought a new blade, not any more! Thank you.
Thanks for the inspiration bud, I have everything I need already!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and inspire others to share theirs.
Great video. I never thought of doing it this simply. I sharpen steel drill bits and router bits on my grinder all the time. I've tried saw blades on it, but not much success. The diamond blade is the key. Thanks.
Ttf Web Yeah, the diamond blade is the way to go. You can see just how narrow of a gap you're able to get into and grind.
im having a "why didnt i think of that!" moment lol. great easy technique! think ill build a jig tho, i looked at another video and all u need is a square piece of wood with a post in it, it rides on the fence and is thus adjustable for the blade angle
One thought, if you use a piece of wood instead of the drywall, then place your blade, then screw a scrap of wood to hold the blade down, it might be a bit easier to control. I like this idea a lot! I have a stack of blades that I may try this on.
Thanks for posting you saved me some money.
great info thanks going to give it a try thanks again
Your right about eyes, Had a bit of hot rust hit my eye and it stuck. I could smell burning and needed to have it pulled off ZCould not see for a while and wore a patch. Had a rust spot on my eye for a few years. Cheers
you can also sharpen those old steel blades. You need an abrasive wheel rather than a diamond blade but you just have to be careful not to allow too much heat which is what makes the metal soften and not hold an edge.
Hey man! It works! Top job! ❤ cheers from Australia 👍
Super clever commentary "Limited Edition Drywall" reference. Highly entertaining! Cheers
You can also clean the blades with oven cleaner, a clean blade will run cooler. We also used to periodically spray them with pledge.
I never used Pledge, but I have cleaned pitch with oven cleaner. After that you should wash your blades in fresh water. Because some oven cleaner may sit in braze joints and potentially do funky stuff. After the rinse I dry, and WD-40 my blades.
Steve Duval after cleaning I use rem oil to store them. just a light spray or the whiles. I use the stuff on anything bare metal. not just for guns...
Why not laundry detergent?
I profess to know absolutely zero about blade sharpening, but the comment about the "limited edition drywall jig" was classic!
This is a very handy video! Thanks a lot!
Now it's 45 + years since I learned to perform this task, but the principles are still the same-
You only sharpen in the gullets as shown here if a) you really must (seldom if ever) and b) If the tip thickness allows (Seldom, if ever)
The wear which is responsible for bluntness is on the periphery, and that's where you sharpen a saw, on the periphery, which, by virtue of the tooth geometry (alternatively staggered left and right, or left, square, right... toothing), sharpening's a two, three or five set operation, (five when the "square" teeth have to have their corners chamfered) on a dedicated machine, upon which you can be sure all tooth heights are consistent.
Only sharpening in the gullet leaves the blade dull, since the peripheral clearance has not been reinstated. It's no different, really from "topping" a hand saw with a flat file, followed by backing off with a triangular file to provide cutting clearance behind each tooth
One really good reason for avoiding sharpening in the gullets is that the tooth face needs to be highly finished, (honed) to avoid rapid resin build up in the gullets, which reduces cutting efficiency, increasing demand on the motor. Another is that you retain the tips' thickness, therefore their strength.
When you have a number of blades to sharpen, negotiate a price for a batch, don't pay the unit price, and with small blades, replacement's often cheaper anyway, and there's often very little meat on the tips to start with.
Thank you sir. Makes a lot of sense what you say. So the right way to do a quick sharpening of the blade is to sharpen the peripheral tip of the carbide edge. Is it worth it when you don't have a specialty machine where you can level all the blades teeth? And to sharpen the blade itself you use the flat file for the outside of the circle of the blade and the triangular file to make the tooth tip lose the roundness and make it have a sharp angle again?
Thanks for the awesome idea!
thank you, subcribed. fastest and easiest method seen so far. to do it properly that is
thanks again, cheers from Chile
That's great! Thanks for sharing!
Respirator???? Huh, you bet you need it. Carbide dust is no joke.
It is not an issue on a water cooled machine with a diamond wheel.
Great tip thank you Rocket Factory!
I tried this with my Dewalt 60V table saw. At first I bought a 7” continuous general purpose wet/dry Makita blade from Home Depot but it chipped the carbide. So I went back to Home Depot and got a 7” Continuous Wet only Tile Porcelain blade by “King Diamond” and it worked perfect. My Dewalt table saw has a max blade size of 8-1/4” so I couldn’t fit a 10”. The 7” works great, it’s cheaper and the blade probably has less deflection.
My blade sharpening guy raised his prices out of sight. I am going to try this on my 12" 96 tooth blades. I cut lots of hickory. Very hard on tools. Now if I could sharpen my shaper & router bits.
looks like the perfect way to sharpen a blade for cutting up pallets, or for rough framing applications.
because there is no way all those teeth are now at the exact same angle and height.
great for rough cutting blades, wouldn't't be cutting any of my exotic woods with a rough finished sharpening as you have.
there's a reason top sharpening businesses use laser and sharpening blades with 5000 grit diamond wheels.
but for rough work, that looks really good, nice tip thanks.
Limited Edition🤣😂🤣 I have probably 20 blades laying around... Brilliant Idea
Going to try this using my tile saw with the diamond blade.
+Michael Beard That's the blade I am using. I noticed since making the video that if I run the diamond blade backwards it does a much nicer finish. Sometimes depending on the make of the carbide the diamond blade running in the correct direction was a little too aggressive and could chip the tooth.
Good stuff my man :D
Great video. I am going to start sharpening mine to save a few bucks. I also sharpen chainsaw blades and drill bits to keep from wasting money.
A circular saw tooth is a bit more complicated than this. at least 3 angles to consider.
You can tilt your table saw blade to do the other type... Just skip the other tooth then go back threw it after you reverse the angle. I clean up the tooth's top with a hand dimond file... eBay cheapo's hold up quite well for a four or five dollar file. I've stopped on a trim job and touched up my chopsaw blade while having a beverage... Takes you 10 mins by hand... Why would you put on a new one for fifty bucks? I think the guys that don't do this are clueless! I got a whole set of little files... I just touched up a 3/8" spade bit... My brother in law hit a nail while we where putting up hit backyard fence... Took five minutes! Why yo be ...man! Keep on rockin in the free world !!!
Totally agree. Even the brand new spade bits I've bought aren't as sharp as I can get them with a chainsaw file.
Tilt is almost never needed on the face of the carbide. Just touch up the face at 90 degrees and you're ready to go. Use very light pressure and you will get much better edges on the carbide tips.
THANKS for the video!
Question re using my ceramic tile cutting blade for sharpening carbide blades:
will doing that dull down my tile blade so that it will not cut tiles effectively?
Thanks a lot for this! I feel a bit stupid, now. I can use a similar method for sharpening router blades. You could sharpen those hook-tooth ones with a round diamond stone chucked in a drill press. I sent my blades out for sharpening, which cost about $7.00 each, but I'm not thrilled with the sharpening job, especially on my miter blades. Still too much tear-out.
Never thought of using a diamond blade in the table saw. Good idea. Big problem with sharpening is the tooth set. As long as the set is still good the sharpening is a good idea. You can buy a setting tool also but that is a precise job. Gonna try the diamond blade table saw idea. Thanks.
There is no set on a carbide blade the teeth are at a 5 degree angle on most blades. I don't think he did the angle.
the cutting teeth are slightly beveled so you need to grind accordingly .
Angle? Thanks
This is True, left and then right on makita blades
Just walked past the dull blade I saved thinking it's got to be a waste to throw out. If not perfect, this must at least make them much better. Thanks!
Cool thanks man. Going to Lowe's tomorrow. Have a dado set that needs sharpening et et et.
The finer the diamond grit the better.
The Rocket Factory
Can't hardly here you!!!
Did you mean to say here you, or did you mean to say hear you? ....and did you mean can't, or did you really mean can?
46 years using circular saws daily working as a cabinet maker the secret to keeping your saw blades sharpe is at end of every day spend 19 minutes on each saw blade rub a diamond stone over ever tooth of the blade at 20 degrees your blade will last for ever. Take good care of your tools and reap the rewards. Blunt tools will never make huge profits as sharp tool will.
Going to try a diamond tile table saw at sharpening a carbide blade sometime. It looks like a smaller version of your table saw. Glad i kept some of the more worn tile saw blades as they may act better at polishing than a brand new tile saw blade.
Jo, did you have any success with the diamond tile saw blade? I thought of using my tile saw to do the sharpening, seems like the water would help keep the blade cooler. Will give it a shot, appreciate any feedback.
Great camera angles!
I sharpen saw blades for a living, the diamond you are using is for cutting concrete. So the grit that it has is similar to 40 grit sand paper, it may sharpen your blades but they will dull quickly. Also, without a jig you can't control the angle of the tooth which is very vital to sharpening a carbide tipped saw blade. Then the most important part, if yall want to truly sharpen a blade you have to sharpen the top of the carbide. Good idea, but if you want to save money and get the same cut quality you get with a brand new blade you're going to have to fine tune and improve your method.
I second this comment. There usually needs to be at least two angles opposite each other and then a flat (90* angle) in between these. This method is too simplistic and won't result in the best results for cuts made with a saw blade "sharpened like this. Take it to a pro and spend the bucks. You'll be glad you did.
finally some1 that understands my feelings agree 10000% with you good sir
For the two minutes it took him, I’m sure you can agree that this is a great alternative to having to send the blade out fo pro sharpening, or for when you just need t touch up some old cheaply acquired reclaimed blades! Also good way to get your only owned blade of you hit a nail or it is dulled.
You are correct that controlling the angle would be better...but, He said it cuts well. If you have a home shop and it works, who cares.
DavieMac48 the angles don’t change when you clean up the flat face of the tooth! It all depends on the kerf, not all teeth are opposite each but other, in woodworking circles you’ll find thin kerf blades with flat tipped teeth that this example of home gaming sharpening could suit.
such a good solution. thank you for this!
This is a very handy video! Thanks a lot!
old school that you could do in the field when needed.
5 stars
That's the quietest saw I've ever seen.
That you hear with your eyes is remarkable
Fuzzy Johnson I was thinking the same thing. My saw is a lot noisier.
@@toddolson573 It's a pretty useful super-power actually.
Thanks for the info I have a tile cutter which has a diamond blade in it and i have a few blabes that need a sharpen, goodjob .
I was a cutter grinder and you need either a silicon (green grit) or diamond grit wheel to sharpen carbide.
Thanks so much! Great vid!
Rick Jones Yes sir. Enjoy the sharp blades.
In my years of cutting boards with carbide blades I found that a scale builds up on the teeth (sides and face) which slows the cutting. You can readily see it. All you need do is remove that scale using a wire brush and the blade will cut again - no sharpening is needed.
You can also soak it in laundry detergent and wash it off it with wire mesh sponge.
Rinse with water and dry it thoroughly.
I am a tile setter and use a wet saw to do this. a porcelain blade cuts finer,plus you have a sliding tray and water to keep dust down and clean as you go.
Great idea! Thanks.
thanks for that. I will be trying it.
Thanks for posting this video, I will give it a try. I was wondering if you remove the rust and pitch from your blades before you sharpen them? I notice that it makes quite a difference on the cut, when my blades when they are clean and rust free. Take Care and thanks again for the post.
did you clean your table saw from most of the clinging sawdust? a dustexplosion or fire is nearby disconect your dustdisposal as well
This is an excellent method for quick sharpening. We used the same method, but got close to factory quality edges: we made a small sled with a rail on the bottom to register in the miter gauge slots. The sled had a stud that matched our saw's arbor size, and you just repositioned it by re-screwing it to the sled in a different spot. This allowed us to rotate the blade keeping the perfect face angle, then slide it forward on the sled. We just tilted the blade to match alternating bevel teeth.
This guy does a similar thing: ruclips.net/video/ZljcSY732NE/видео.html
Great video...thank you.
Going to make a sled using both miter slots, on the cross peice ( bridge ) I will install an appropriate size dowel in the center to rotate the blade around then slide into the diamond blade... sharpen... slide out... rotate around the dowel... slide in...repeat :--)
Try and find a blade that's around 600grit. The one I used in the video is too coarse.
A useful video, that's got me thinking...
Why not a sled that fits in to the table slots. Upon it can be mounted an adjustable arbor mount that can be positioned according to the blade size. Stops can also be incorporated to assist is stabling the blade being sharpened... Or you could use a piece of drywall.
BTW, selling the Ducati?... Either fix that beauty and ride it or sell it!
Great demo thank you
After teaching high school Woodshop for 35 years I am impressed with this simple and easy way to sharpen circular saw blades......I will use this technique!
Nice vid! Thank you
Good video, thanks for sharing. I already have a diamond blade, so guess what I'll be doing next time the blade isn't cutting as it should be. Cheers.
If you have a tile saw, then you have a diamond edged blade. I just changed out my old blade so will give this a shot and see if it works!
Great video!!
I would have to mark the blade where I started....otherwise I would lose track !!
I like your Ducati there in the back ground
HEY rocket, great Vid ! You might try using a piece of shingle to sharpen blades with the alternating angle .....
Might work for a few times, but for correct sharpening you should joint the tips first. That will get all points/tips the same length. Then you sharpen the face back to where the jointed tip (land) just disappears.
Nice! Thanks...I'm a noob but I'm learning.
GOOD JOB!
Hey man , Your Garage looks really neat ! Would you mind showing us around ?
What a quiet table saw.
Cool, a simple jig using the mitre slots & a spring loaded stop would be easy to make . I thought you would have the angle diamond blade & done every 2nd tooth & then flip the blade to keep the bevel.
Very good idea
Thanks
always use a dust mask when grinding carbide. heavy metals in your lungs stay there forever. used to work in a carbide shop 40 years ago. breathing problems were common for the workers there. the dust even managed to go right through your clothes into your pores.
I like this, what a simple solution. Sharpen two or three and you have saved the cost of the diamond blade already. Have you had any issues with smoothness of cut, vibrations or increased tearout? I have a beautiful old 12 tooth 10 inch re-saw blade I would love to bring back into shape. I am adding this idea to my bag of tricks for sure.
No, my cuts have all been super clean. I resharpen my bandsaw blades also but with a different method. The resharpened blades cut better than they do new out of the box.
I think people, including myself, have been mind washed into thinking sharpening tool blades is rocket science and should be left to the professionals, when in fact it is real simple.
i own 12 tooth greenwood saw blade (rip cut kind). used to be 24 inch until stone (in wood) destroyed the carbides. I asked saw repair shop to convert it to 12 tooth , skipping tooth (removed and filed off tip) as anti kickback. worked best than my 18 tooth greenwood blade (made in swizerland).