I'm a carpenter for 45 years now, and use this method for a long time and saved so much money allready. I never thought putting it on to the net. great job man. five stars *****
You don't need to use a sharpie, all you need is a piece of chalk. Back in the 70's I had a sharpening business but, the recession blew me out of the water, so I closed shop. There are grinding wheels that are cheaper than diamond that will sharpen carbide also. They also come in various grits so the carbide is polished.
Crayon, sharpie, drop of your blood...whatever. I just choose sharpie because aside from a pencil its the most likely marking instrument i have on me whenever I'm working on a job
Thanks you very much,I purchased the diamond blade,put it in my table saw, & in 5 minutes had sharpened my first blade,works like a charm,I have since made a sliding table,to place the blade on.
I do not think they sell it as a sharpening blade. It is more of a dry cut tile saw blade I think? It just has industrial diamonds embedded in it. I imagine the smoothest blade you can get would be best.
Good video. Been calibrating my 10" radial arm saw. Found about a dozen old blades. Definitely will invest the 40 bucks or so for a diamond blade for my bench saw. Thanks for the video.
Love it, thanks. I have a few blades with canted teeth so I modified your method a little with success. I cut a 1"thick piece of wood at the same angle that the tooth is angled (around 15 deg) long ways on the flat surface (kinda like ripping) and used that for my blade rest. Started with the rest angle pointed to my right and sharpened every other tooth matching the profile to the angle then flipped the blade and rest and sharpened the others. I hope that this is understandable. Maybe I will make a video some day but I'm camera shy.
Great video man !! Thanks !! I just bought a Shop Smith with some dull blades. I'm going to get a diamond wheel and touch 'em up. I used to watch my Dad sharpen his blades with a file and re-set them .... long process. My only suggestion is that blades do have "set" from tooth to tooth, side to side that needs to be duplicated. It varies from blade to blade. As for all the "experts" boo hooing let them. EVERYBODY is a critic these days it seems, everybody is a friggin ARMCHAIR EXPERT. I hear what they're saying, but the average Joe isn't about to go out and drop $200 for a few blades to use around the house ... not if he's smart, in my "humble" opinion !! . I for one appreciate your helpful video. You just made my life a LOT easier. You just bought $50 blades for ZIP and these clowns are critiquing your process ? REALLY ?? I think you did the smart thing ! Let THEM by the $50 blades and throw them out. I'll be out there trying to beat you to the deals !! LOL !! Carry on ma-man !!
your dad sharpening (with file) is steel only blade. carbide can not be sharpened with a file or arkansas stone (because those steel and stone is softer than carbide). that is why OP used diamond because it is harder than carbide.
6:39 one like that I'd sharpen and use it as a remodeling blade that way if you hit a nail you're not out anything. Good for cutting pallets, too, if you don't have a metal detector. (I don't and I'm not risking my $200 Forrest MADE IN AMERICA blade on anything risky.) Like you I got a bunch of old used blades with my TS when I bought it used. It came with some interesting steel ones, like a tenoning blade which is super thick so there's no vibration. I don't use it often but when I do I'm glad I've sharpened it. Great vid, thanks for sharing!
Thank You Very Much for sharing your experience with everyone here on youtube. I have a bunch of them to sharpen. I use some of my carbide blades to cut like sheet metal roofing panels with and that is pretty rough on blades. Was lucky to find your site here. The old craft of saw sharpening shops are pretty much gone today so your method here will help many of us for sure.
Your right about eyes, Had a bit of hot rust hit my eye and it stuck. I could smell burning and needed to have it pulled off ZCould not see for a while and wore a patch. Had a rust spot on my eye for a few years. Cheers
Going to try a diamond tile table saw at sharpening a carbide blade sometime. It looks like a smaller version of your table saw. Glad i kept some of the more worn tile saw blades as they may act better at polishing than a brand new tile saw blade.
Jo, did you have any success with the diamond tile saw blade? I thought of using my tile saw to do the sharpening, seems like the water would help keep the blade cooler. Will give it a shot, appreciate any feedback.
46 years using circular saws daily working as a cabinet maker the secret to keeping your saw blades sharpe is at end of every day spend 19 minutes on each saw blade rub a diamond stone over ever tooth of the blade at 20 degrees your blade will last for ever. Take good care of your tools and reap the rewards. Blunt tools will never make huge profits as sharp tool will.
you can also sharpen those old steel blades. You need an abrasive wheel rather than a diamond blade but you just have to be careful not to allow too much heat which is what makes the metal soften and not hold an edge.
Great video. I never thought of doing it this simply. I sharpen steel drill bits and router bits on my grinder all the time. I've tried saw blades on it, but not much success. The diamond blade is the key. Thanks.
Damn nice video! You solved a expensive problem. This concept would apply to sharpening a variety of edged tools. Can't believe I haven't run into this idea before. Thanks!
Hey bud. Just saying . Gloves are highly prohibited to wear while using a Tablesaw. You’ll see that in the book your saw comes with. Cuz if it touches the blade, it’ll pull your whole hand in it . Cheers
I am a tile setter and use a wet saw to do this. a porcelain blade cuts finer,plus you have a sliding tray and water to keep dust down and clean as you go.
After teaching high school Woodshop for 35 years I am impressed with this simple and easy way to sharpen circular saw blades......I will use this technique!
One thought, if you use a piece of wood instead of the drywall, then place your blade, then screw a scrap of wood to hold the blade down, it might be a bit easier to control. I like this idea a lot! I have a stack of blades that I may try this on.
Thanks for the great video and information. I'm retired now so it's good to save a buck whenever possible. And to think I was just about to purchase a new blade when I have a pile of expensive saw blades that can be easily sharpened.
I tried this with my Dewalt 60V table saw. At first I bought a 7” continuous general purpose wet/dry Makita blade from Home Depot but it chipped the carbide. So I went back to Home Depot and got a 7” Continuous Wet only Tile Porcelain blade by “King Diamond” and it worked perfect. My Dewalt table saw has a max blade size of 8-1/4” so I couldn’t fit a 10”. The 7” works great, it’s cheaper and the blade probably has less deflection.
How do you account for tooth angle? Not all blades have flat, 90 degree angle, most are a slight angle, like 10 to 15 degree, and alternate back and forth from one tooth to another.
My blade sharpening guy raised his prices out of sight. I am going to try this on my 12" 96 tooth blades. I cut lots of hickory. Very hard on tools. Now if I could sharpen my shaper & router bits.
I never used Pledge, but I have cleaned pitch with oven cleaner. After that you should wash your blades in fresh water. Because some oven cleaner may sit in braze joints and potentially do funky stuff. After the rinse I dry, and WD-40 my blades.
Thanks for posting this video, I will give it a try. I was wondering if you remove the rust and pitch from your blades before you sharpen them? I notice that it makes quite a difference on the cut, when my blades when they are clean and rust free. Take Care and thanks again for the post.
I sharpen saw blades for a living, the diamond you are using is for cutting concrete. So the grit that it has is similar to 40 grit sand paper, it may sharpen your blades but they will dull quickly. Also, without a jig you can't control the angle of the tooth which is very vital to sharpening a carbide tipped saw blade. Then the most important part, if yall want to truly sharpen a blade you have to sharpen the top of the carbide. Good idea, but if you want to save money and get the same cut quality you get with a brand new blade you're going to have to fine tune and improve your method.
I second this comment. There usually needs to be at least two angles opposite each other and then a flat (90* angle) in between these. This method is too simplistic and won't result in the best results for cuts made with a saw blade "sharpened like this. Take it to a pro and spend the bucks. You'll be glad you did.
For the two minutes it took him, I’m sure you can agree that this is a great alternative to having to send the blade out fo pro sharpening, or for when you just need t touch up some old cheaply acquired reclaimed blades! Also good way to get your only owned blade of you hit a nail or it is dulled.
DavieMac48 the angles don’t change when you clean up the flat face of the tooth! It all depends on the kerf, not all teeth are opposite each but other, in woodworking circles you’ll find thin kerf blades with flat tipped teeth that this example of home gaming sharpening could suit.
Awesome video, I’ve been looking at sharpeners but I’m retired mechanic and with some ingenuity I can make a simple holding fixture out of oak and a 5/8 dowel or something else and have at it
THANKS for the video! Question re using my ceramic tile cutting blade for sharpening carbide blades: will doing that dull down my tile blade so that it will not cut tiles effectively?
Now it's 45 + years since I learned to perform this task, but the principles are still the same- You only sharpen in the gullets as shown here if a) you really must (seldom if ever) and b) If the tip thickness allows (Seldom, if ever) The wear which is responsible for bluntness is on the periphery, and that's where you sharpen a saw, on the periphery, which, by virtue of the tooth geometry (alternatively staggered left and right, or left, square, right... toothing), sharpening's a two, three or five set operation, (five when the "square" teeth have to have their corners chamfered) on a dedicated machine, upon which you can be sure all tooth heights are consistent. Only sharpening in the gullet leaves the blade dull, since the peripheral clearance has not been reinstated. It's no different, really from "topping" a hand saw with a flat file, followed by backing off with a triangular file to provide cutting clearance behind each tooth One really good reason for avoiding sharpening in the gullets is that the tooth face needs to be highly finished, (honed) to avoid rapid resin build up in the gullets, which reduces cutting efficiency, increasing demand on the motor. Another is that you retain the tips' thickness, therefore their strength. When you have a number of blades to sharpen, negotiate a price for a batch, don't pay the unit price, and with small blades, replacement's often cheaper anyway, and there's often very little meat on the tips to start with.
Thank you sir. Makes a lot of sense what you say. So the right way to do a quick sharpening of the blade is to sharpen the peripheral tip of the carbide edge. Is it worth it when you don't have a specialty machine where you can level all the blades teeth? And to sharpen the blade itself you use the flat file for the outside of the circle of the blade and the triangular file to make the tooth tip lose the roundness and make it have a sharp angle again?
I wear dust masks because the next day I'm coughing and hacking up dust/fine shavings of both metal and wood. Haven't you ever noticed your snot after you've been working in a dusty place and/or sawing/filing? If that crap is in your snot, it got to your nose. If it got to your nose, you've breathed it in. Breathed it in? It's in your lungs. No worries for anyone who doesn't want to wear protective gear bc it's their choice. For me, I can't firkin' stand all the coughing and hacking the next day. Bugs the crap outta me. And anyone nearby who has to listen to it.
looks like the perfect way to sharpen a blade for cutting up pallets, or for rough framing applications. because there is no way all those teeth are now at the exact same angle and height. great for rough cutting blades, wouldn't't be cutting any of my exotic woods with a rough finished sharpening as you have. there's a reason top sharpening businesses use laser and sharpening blades with 5000 grit diamond wheels. but for rough work, that looks really good, nice tip thanks.
I like this, what a simple solution. Sharpen two or three and you have saved the cost of the diamond blade already. Have you had any issues with smoothness of cut, vibrations or increased tearout? I have a beautiful old 12 tooth 10 inch re-saw blade I would love to bring back into shape. I am adding this idea to my bag of tricks for sure.
No, my cuts have all been super clean. I resharpen my bandsaw blades also but with a different method. The resharpened blades cut better than they do new out of the box. I think people, including myself, have been mind washed into thinking sharpening tool blades is rocket science and should be left to the professionals, when in fact it is real simple.
i own 12 tooth greenwood saw blade (rip cut kind). used to be 24 inch until stone (in wood) destroyed the carbides. I asked saw repair shop to convert it to 12 tooth , skipping tooth (removed and filed off tip) as anti kickback. worked best than my 18 tooth greenwood blade (made in swizerland).
This is interesting I use metal cutting carbide blades for steal cutting They do dull out like any other blades will and get in to $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!! There not cheap and if a guy runs and ruins ALOT of them it's a pricey problem I will like too know if this technique will work on mentioned blad s as there design is very different than that of a wood blades if you have any ideas to share Thank you in advance
Depends on the saw blade some are some are not. Oversimplifying somewhat....rip saw blade carbides are straight. Cross cut saw blade carbides are angled. But I suppose you could just make very simple jig that holds the blade at the correct angle and sharpen every other tooth. And then flip the blade over and repeat the process.
In my years of cutting boards with carbide blades I found that a scale builds up on the teeth (sides and face) which slows the cutting. You can readily see it. All you need do is remove that scale using a wire brush and the blade will cut again - no sharpening is needed.
Never thought of using a diamond blade in the table saw. Good idea. Big problem with sharpening is the tooth set. As long as the set is still good the sharpening is a good idea. You can buy a setting tool also but that is a precise job. Gonna try the diamond blade table saw idea. Thanks.
How does this compare to the $64 blade sharpener sold on ebay? Seems like it would be better at getting all the tips the same and doesn't cost any more than those diamond blades.
+Michael Beard That's the blade I am using. I noticed since making the video that if I run the diamond blade backwards it does a much nicer finish. Sometimes depending on the make of the carbide the diamond blade running in the correct direction was a little too aggressive and could chip the tooth.
+The Rocket Factory I'm guessing you might have setup the grinding wheel to sharpen those drill bits in much the same way as the diamond wheel shown in this video. Am I correct ?
+Matlockization it's a bit different. I should do a video. The way I do it is very similar to the way old time machinists do it. Just hold the bit in hand and twist it into the grinding wheel. Works great, just need to make sure you get the right angles.
6:03, Piranha Black and Decker form the late 1980's......good blade, maybe get a silicon carbide stone and use in a Dremel tool aluminum oxide will not work on Carbide teeth, but you may find a diamond circular encrusted stone.....I have a couple of those Piranaha's congratulations on your 1.2 million views......Paul
I'm gonna try this but with a 50-150 grit diamond blade, I don't expect to get amazing results like when you have your blades professionally sharpened with 8000 grit. The free hand method has me skeptical as well.
You can tilt your table saw blade to do the other type... Just skip the other tooth then go back threw it after you reverse the angle. I clean up the tooth's top with a hand dimond file... eBay cheapo's hold up quite well for a four or five dollar file. I've stopped on a trim job and touched up my chopsaw blade while having a beverage... Takes you 10 mins by hand... Why would you put on a new one for fifty bucks? I think the guys that don't do this are clueless! I got a whole set of little files... I just touched up a 3/8" spade bit... My brother in law hit a nail while we where putting up hit backyard fence... Took five minutes! Why yo be ...man! Keep on rockin in the free world !!!
Tilt is almost never needed on the face of the carbide. Just touch up the face at 90 degrees and you're ready to go. Use very light pressure and you will get much better edges on the carbide tips.
Just walked past the dull blade I saved thinking it's got to be a waste to throw out. If not perfect, this must at least make them much better. Thanks!
I just tried this method. but i seem to be doing something wrong. Using a continuous diamond blade for cutting ceramics it definitely abrades the carbides but it's leaving micro chips on the edges of the teeth arguably making it even worst. I have the blade set up on a jig mounted through table saw runners and have reduced the blade (diamond) rpm by a factor of 2... still no luck
@@ArcanePath360 They don't really advertise the grits on those blades. I ended up with this blade so I'd know the grit: www.amazon.com/Diamond-Grinding-Facing-Carbide-Circle/dp/B00A52VN4U/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=diamond+saw+sharpening&qid=1583685778&sr=8-27
Very useful. I’ll give it a try. On the other hand you should never use gloves with a circular saw! They won’t protect you from getting cut. They would pull your whole hand in. Without gloves you might get away with just a little nick if you’re lucky. With gloves you’ll lose your whole hand. Same goes for rings, loose sleeves or long hair.
OR, You can mount the dull blade on backwards, turn it on & GENTLY touch the spinning edge of the dull backwards mounted blade with a sharpening stone. !
The only problem I have with this method is that you are producing sparks (although not massive) that fly into a table saw which by its nature has a lot of residual sawdust in it. The potential for fire is quite large.
Great video...thank you. Going to make a sled using both miter slots, on the cross peice ( bridge ) I will install an appropriate size dowel in the center to rotate the blade around then slide into the diamond blade... sharpen... slide out... rotate around the dowel... slide in...repeat :--)
Im not trying to be rude, just offering some of my knowledge. One more thing, the blade with bevel in the carbide is called a piraña blade. It was made by black and decker as a multi purpose skill saw blade in the late '80's. It takes a custome made diamond wheel to sharpen, I have a saw with that blade so I have that diamond wheel in my shop.
+Shaun Hill Carbide blades are immediately distinguishable from the old high-speed steel variety. The carbide cutting edges are brazed to a steel body. You cannot mistake the two.
A useful video, that's got me thinking... Why not a sled that fits in to the table slots. Upon it can be mounted an adjustable arbor mount that can be positioned according to the blade size. Stops can also be incorporated to assist is stabling the blade being sharpened... Or you could use a piece of drywall. BTW, selling the Ducati?... Either fix that beauty and ride it or sell it!
always use a dust mask when grinding carbide. heavy metals in your lungs stay there forever. used to work in a carbide shop 40 years ago. breathing problems were common for the workers there. the dust even managed to go right through your clothes into your pores.
Might work for a few times, but for correct sharpening you should joint the tips first. That will get all points/tips the same length. Then you sharpen the face back to where the jointed tip (land) just disappears.
I'm a carpenter for 45 years now, and use this method for a long time and saved so much money allready. I never thought putting it on to the net. great job man. five stars *****
Says five stars, gives three.
and beeing a carpenter for 45 years seeing how he sharpens all teets at 90% does not ring a bell at all?
Ron Verburg hygiene. Orpdgu
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Hi ya. New to this sharpening saw blade. Isn't every second tooth a different angle.??
@@DixonChanWansometimes more so on ATB ripping blades my fine cut ATB 80tooth has the same face angle on each tooth.
Awesome vid. Only tip I would add is take a sharpie & put a little tick mark at your starter tooth so you know when you have made a full circle.
Take it from a pro, a 9YO girl just gave you a pro tip, saves you having to constantly check where you are up to.
You don't need to use a sharpie, all you need is a piece of chalk. Back in the 70's I had a sharpening business but, the recession blew me out of the water, so I closed shop. There are grinding wheels that are cheaper than diamond that will sharpen carbide also. They also come in various grits so the carbide is polished.
thorlo6 u
Maybe a crayon?
Crayon, sharpie, drop of your blood...whatever. I just choose sharpie because aside from a pencil its the most likely marking instrument i have on me whenever I'm working on a job
Thanks you very much,I purchased the diamond blade,put it in my table saw, & in 5 minutes had sharpened my first blade,works like a charm,I have since made a sliding table,to place the blade on.
Never saw those sharping blade this is a money saver big time. Thanks.
I do not think they sell it as a sharpening blade. It is more of a dry cut tile saw blade I think? It just has industrial diamonds embedded in it. I imagine the smoothest blade you can get would be best.
Good video. Been calibrating my 10" radial arm saw. Found about a dozen old blades. Definitely will invest the 40 bucks or so for a diamond blade for my bench saw. Thanks for the video.
Love it, thanks. I have a few blades with canted teeth so I modified your method a little with success. I cut a 1"thick piece of wood at the same angle that the tooth is angled (around 15 deg) long ways on the flat surface (kinda like ripping) and used that for my blade rest. Started with the rest angle pointed to my right and sharpened every other tooth matching the profile to the angle then flipped the blade and rest and sharpened the others. I hope that this is understandable. Maybe I will make a video some day but I'm camera shy.
You don't need to be on camera,just show and talk,I want to see the method
you have opened our minds to what can be done.
Great video man !! Thanks !! I just bought a Shop Smith with some dull blades. I'm going to get a diamond wheel and touch 'em up. I used to watch my Dad sharpen his blades with a file and re-set them .... long process. My only suggestion is that blades do have "set" from tooth to tooth, side to side that needs to be duplicated. It varies from blade to blade. As for all the "experts" boo hooing let them. EVERYBODY is a critic these days it seems, everybody is a friggin ARMCHAIR EXPERT. I hear what they're saying, but the average Joe isn't about to go out and drop $200 for a few blades to use around the house ... not if he's smart, in my "humble" opinion !! . I for one appreciate your helpful video. You just made my life a LOT easier. You just bought $50 blades for ZIP and these clowns are critiquing your process ? REALLY ?? I think you did the smart thing ! Let THEM by the $50 blades and throw them out. I'll be out there trying to beat you to the deals !! LOL !! Carry on ma-man !!
your dad sharpening (with file) is steel only blade. carbide can not be sharpened with a file or arkansas stone (because those steel and stone is softer than carbide). that is why OP used diamond because it is harder than carbide.
6:39 one like that I'd sharpen and use it as a remodeling blade that way if you hit a nail you're not out anything. Good for cutting pallets, too, if you don't have a metal detector. (I don't and I'm not risking my $200 Forrest MADE IN AMERICA blade on anything risky.) Like you I got a bunch of old used blades with my TS when I bought it used. It came with some interesting steel ones, like a tenoning blade which is super thick so there's no vibration. I don't use it often but when I do I'm glad I've sharpened it. Great vid, thanks for sharing!
Thank You Very Much for sharing your experience with everyone here on youtube. I have a bunch of them to sharpen. I use some of my carbide blades to cut like sheet metal roofing panels with and that is pretty rough on blades. Was lucky to find your site here. The old craft of saw sharpening shops are pretty much gone today so your method here will help many of us for sure.
Your right about eyes, Had a bit of hot rust hit my eye and it stuck. I could smell burning and needed to have it pulled off ZCould not see for a while and wore a patch. Had a rust spot on my eye for a few years. Cheers
I like the video. Very peaceful person. Not big deal and job done. Cheap and easy. Congratulation.
Good idea. I have a stack of older table saw blades thinking I would send them out for sharpening. I'll try your system.
Going to try a diamond tile table saw at sharpening a carbide blade sometime. It looks like a smaller version of your table saw. Glad i kept some of the more worn tile saw blades as they may act better at polishing than a brand new tile saw blade.
Jo, did you have any success with the diamond tile saw blade? I thought of using my tile saw to do the sharpening, seems like the water would help keep the blade cooler. Will give it a shot, appreciate any feedback.
Thanks for the insight and for the practical application. Congrats to you for thinking outside the box! And, thanks for the video
46 years using circular saws daily working as a cabinet maker the secret to keeping your saw blades sharpe is at end of every day spend 19 minutes on each saw blade rub a diamond stone over ever tooth of the blade at 20 degrees your blade will last for ever. Take good care of your tools and reap the rewards. Blunt tools will never make huge profits as sharp tool will.
you can also sharpen those old steel blades. You need an abrasive wheel rather than a diamond blade but you just have to be careful not to allow too much heat which is what makes the metal soften and not hold an edge.
Great informative video, now I can get to work sharpening all my old blades hanging above the work bench. thanks.
Great video. I never thought of doing it this simply. I sharpen steel drill bits and router bits on my grinder all the time. I've tried saw blades on it, but not much success. The diamond blade is the key. Thanks.
Ttf Web Yeah, the diamond blade is the way to go. You can see just how narrow of a gap you're able to get into and grind.
Damn nice video! You solved a expensive problem. This concept would apply to sharpening a variety of edged tools. Can't believe I haven't run into this idea before. Thanks!
Hey bud. Just saying . Gloves are highly prohibited to wear while using a Tablesaw. You’ll see that in the book your saw comes with. Cuz if it touches the blade, it’ll pull your whole hand in it . Cheers
I am a tile setter and use a wet saw to do this. a porcelain blade cuts finer,plus you have a sliding tray and water to keep dust down and clean as you go.
Will have a question will have any knowledge about the sharpening of metal cutting carbide blades to share
Thank you In advance
After teaching high school Woodshop for 35 years I am impressed with this simple and easy way to sharpen circular saw blades......I will use this technique!
I've been using a diamond wheel on my 3.5" grinder to sharpen spade bits for years, works great.
Loved the idea and the limited edition drywall gig, subscribed.
Thanks for the inspiration bud, I have everything I need already!
One thought, if you use a piece of wood instead of the drywall, then place your blade, then screw a scrap of wood to hold the blade down, it might be a bit easier to control. I like this idea a lot! I have a stack of blades that I may try this on.
Thanks for the great video and information. I'm retired now so it's good to save a buck whenever possible. And to think I was just about to purchase a new blade when I have a pile of expensive saw blades that can be easily sharpened.
Would any continuous rim diamond blade work? ie the ones sold for cutting porcelain?
I'm using 600 grit diamond now. If it's too course you'll get chipping. I haven't had any issues at 600.
I tried this with my Dewalt 60V table saw. At first I bought a 7” continuous general purpose wet/dry Makita blade from Home Depot but it chipped the carbide. So I went back to Home Depot and got a 7” Continuous Wet only Tile Porcelain blade by “King Diamond” and it worked perfect. My Dewalt table saw has a max blade size of 8-1/4” so I couldn’t fit a 10”. The 7” works great, it’s cheaper and the blade probably has less deflection.
How do you account for tooth angle? Not all blades have flat, 90 degree angle, most are a slight angle, like 10 to 15 degree, and alternate back and forth from one tooth to another.
My blade sharpening guy raised his prices out of sight. I am going to try this on my 12" 96 tooth blades. I cut lots of hickory. Very hard on tools. Now if I could sharpen my shaper & router bits.
I love the limited edition drywall jig lol!
Awesome vid bro
Great idea , I am glad I saved my old blades . They are all around $ 50. and up ( 12 " blades ) . Thanks for sharing
You can also clean the blades with oven cleaner, a clean blade will run cooler. We also used to periodically spray them with pledge.
I never used Pledge, but I have cleaned pitch with oven cleaner. After that you should wash your blades in fresh water. Because some oven cleaner may sit in braze joints and potentially do funky stuff. After the rinse I dry, and WD-40 my blades.
Steve Duval after cleaning I use rem oil to store them. just a light spray or the whiles. I use the stuff on anything bare metal. not just for guns...
Why not laundry detergent?
Thanks for posting this video, I will give it a try. I was wondering if you remove the rust and pitch from your blades before you sharpen them? I notice that it makes quite a difference on the cut, when my blades when they are clean and rust free. Take Care and thanks again for the post.
I sharpen saw blades for a living, the diamond you are using is for cutting concrete. So the grit that it has is similar to 40 grit sand paper, it may sharpen your blades but they will dull quickly. Also, without a jig you can't control the angle of the tooth which is very vital to sharpening a carbide tipped saw blade. Then the most important part, if yall want to truly sharpen a blade you have to sharpen the top of the carbide. Good idea, but if you want to save money and get the same cut quality you get with a brand new blade you're going to have to fine tune and improve your method.
I second this comment. There usually needs to be at least two angles opposite each other and then a flat (90* angle) in between these. This method is too simplistic and won't result in the best results for cuts made with a saw blade "sharpened like this. Take it to a pro and spend the bucks. You'll be glad you did.
finally some1 that understands my feelings agree 10000% with you good sir
For the two minutes it took him, I’m sure you can agree that this is a great alternative to having to send the blade out fo pro sharpening, or for when you just need t touch up some old cheaply acquired reclaimed blades! Also good way to get your only owned blade of you hit a nail or it is dulled.
You are correct that controlling the angle would be better...but, He said it cuts well. If you have a home shop and it works, who cares.
DavieMac48 the angles don’t change when you clean up the flat face of the tooth! It all depends on the kerf, not all teeth are opposite each but other, in woodworking circles you’ll find thin kerf blades with flat tipped teeth that this example of home gaming sharpening could suit.
Awesome video, I’ve been looking at sharpeners but I’m retired mechanic and with some ingenuity I can make a simple holding fixture out of oak and a 5/8 dowel or something else and have at it
How do you angle the tooth face for the face cut angle. Do you just change the angle on the table saw blade?
Buddy, you just saved me tons of money!
THANKS for the video!
Question re using my ceramic tile cutting blade for sharpening carbide blades:
will doing that dull down my tile blade so that it will not cut tiles effectively?
I have a 3.5 in diamond blade I'll have to try this out on my mini tile cutting saw. Think it would be too complicated with an angle grinder.
Brilliant, thanks, Where can i get a awesome piece of sheet rock like that?
Now it's 45 + years since I learned to perform this task, but the principles are still the same-
You only sharpen in the gullets as shown here if a) you really must (seldom if ever) and b) If the tip thickness allows (Seldom, if ever)
The wear which is responsible for bluntness is on the periphery, and that's where you sharpen a saw, on the periphery, which, by virtue of the tooth geometry (alternatively staggered left and right, or left, square, right... toothing), sharpening's a two, three or five set operation, (five when the "square" teeth have to have their corners chamfered) on a dedicated machine, upon which you can be sure all tooth heights are consistent.
Only sharpening in the gullet leaves the blade dull, since the peripheral clearance has not been reinstated. It's no different, really from "topping" a hand saw with a flat file, followed by backing off with a triangular file to provide cutting clearance behind each tooth
One really good reason for avoiding sharpening in the gullets is that the tooth face needs to be highly finished, (honed) to avoid rapid resin build up in the gullets, which reduces cutting efficiency, increasing demand on the motor. Another is that you retain the tips' thickness, therefore their strength.
When you have a number of blades to sharpen, negotiate a price for a batch, don't pay the unit price, and with small blades, replacement's often cheaper anyway, and there's often very little meat on the tips to start with.
Thank you sir. Makes a lot of sense what you say. So the right way to do a quick sharpening of the blade is to sharpen the peripheral tip of the carbide edge. Is it worth it when you don't have a specialty machine where you can level all the blades teeth? And to sharpen the blade itself you use the flat file for the outside of the circle of the blade and the triangular file to make the tooth tip lose the roundness and make it have a sharp angle again?
Funny how careful people are these days. When I did metalwork at school, the only health and safety equipment we had was a blue apron! Nice Duke btw.
I agree
Lol kids today put a respirator on to use the bathroom it's so funny
Yeah it's called the "Nanny State" these days
I wear dust masks because the next day I'm coughing and hacking up dust/fine shavings of both metal and wood. Haven't you ever noticed your snot after you've been working in a dusty place and/or sawing/filing? If that crap is in your snot, it got to your nose. If it got to your nose, you've breathed it in. Breathed it in? It's in your lungs. No worries for anyone who doesn't want to wear protective gear bc it's their choice. For me, I can't firkin' stand all the coughing and hacking the next day. Bugs the crap outta me. And anyone nearby who has to listen to it.
I have no problem admitting that I'm a soft millenial pussy, but at least, I'm a healthy twat. Not to mention that I'm a festool fanboy 😅😅💳💳
looks like the perfect way to sharpen a blade for cutting up pallets, or for rough framing applications.
because there is no way all those teeth are now at the exact same angle and height.
great for rough cutting blades, wouldn't't be cutting any of my exotic woods with a rough finished sharpening as you have.
there's a reason top sharpening businesses use laser and sharpening blades with 5000 grit diamond wheels.
but for rough work, that looks really good, nice tip thanks.
A circular saw tooth is a bit more complicated than this. at least 3 angles to consider.
the cutting teeth are slightly beveled so you need to grind accordingly .
Angle? Thanks
This is True, left and then right on makita blades
did you clean your table saw from most of the clinging sawdust? a dustexplosion or fire is nearby disconect your dustdisposal as well
Great camera angles!
I like this, what a simple solution. Sharpen two or three and you have saved the cost of the diamond blade already. Have you had any issues with smoothness of cut, vibrations or increased tearout? I have a beautiful old 12 tooth 10 inch re-saw blade I would love to bring back into shape. I am adding this idea to my bag of tricks for sure.
No, my cuts have all been super clean. I resharpen my bandsaw blades also but with a different method. The resharpened blades cut better than they do new out of the box.
I think people, including myself, have been mind washed into thinking sharpening tool blades is rocket science and should be left to the professionals, when in fact it is real simple.
i own 12 tooth greenwood saw blade (rip cut kind). used to be 24 inch until stone (in wood) destroyed the carbides. I asked saw repair shop to convert it to 12 tooth , skipping tooth (removed and filed off tip) as anti kickback. worked best than my 18 tooth greenwood blade (made in swizerland).
This is interesting
I use metal cutting carbide blades for steal cutting
They do dull out like any other blades will and get in to $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!
There not cheap and if a guy runs and ruins ALOT of them it's a pricey problem I will like too know if this technique will work on mentioned blad s as there design is very different than that of a wood blades if you have any ideas to share
Thank you in advance
I was a cutter grinder and you need either a silicon (green grit) or diamond grit wheel to sharpen carbide.
Hi ya. New to this sharpening saw blade. Isn't every second tooth a different angle.??
Depends on the saw blade some are some are not. Oversimplifying somewhat....rip saw blade carbides are straight. Cross cut saw blade carbides are angled.
But I suppose you could just make very simple jig that holds the blade at the correct angle and sharpen every other tooth. And then flip the blade over and repeat the process.
In my years of cutting boards with carbide blades I found that a scale builds up on the teeth (sides and face) which slows the cutting. You can readily see it. All you need do is remove that scale using a wire brush and the blade will cut again - no sharpening is needed.
You can also soak it in laundry detergent and wash it off it with wire mesh sponge.
Rinse with water and dry it thoroughly.
Never thought of using a diamond blade in the table saw. Good idea. Big problem with sharpening is the tooth set. As long as the set is still good the sharpening is a good idea. You can buy a setting tool also but that is a precise job. Gonna try the diamond blade table saw idea. Thanks.
There is no set on a carbide blade the teeth are at a 5 degree angle on most blades. I don't think he did the angle.
How do you do this with ATB and related teeth? It seems this is only good for flat top non beveled blades.
How does this compare to the $64 blade sharpener sold on ebay? Seems like it would be better at getting all the tips the same and doesn't cost any more than those diamond blades.
Going to try this using my tile saw with the diamond blade.
+Michael Beard That's the blade I am using. I noticed since making the video that if I run the diamond blade backwards it does a much nicer finish. Sometimes depending on the make of the carbide the diamond blade running in the correct direction was a little too aggressive and could chip the tooth.
That is a good question but it all depends on how much wood and how thick of wood your cutting
If you have a tile saw, then you have a diamond edged blade. I just changed out my old blade so will give this a shot and see if it works!
thank you, subcribed. fastest and easiest method seen so far. to do it properly that is
thanks again, cheers from Chile
Great video, do you know a way to sharpen drill bits ?
I sharpen mine by hand off a simple craftsman grinding wheel. There's a technique to get the right angle and bevel but pretty easy with practice.
+The Rocket Factory I'm guessing you might have setup the grinding wheel to sharpen those drill bits in much the same way as the diamond wheel shown in this video. Am I correct ?
+Matlockization it's a bit different. I should do a video. The way I do it is very similar to the way old time machinists do it. Just hold the bit in hand and twist it into the grinding wheel. Works great, just need to make sure you get the right angles.
The Rocket Factory Right.
+Matlockization I have a drill bit sharpening video you might find useful among other shop tip videos
6:03, Piranha Black and Decker form the late 1980's......good blade, maybe get a silicon carbide stone and use in a Dremel tool
aluminum oxide will not work on Carbide teeth, but you may find a diamond circular encrusted stone.....I have a couple of those Piranaha's
congratulations on your 1.2 million views......Paul
"...limited edition drywall jig...." hahaha
Got a question do know if it was asked yet ,but do these blads not cut on the side as well ?
I'm gonna try this but with a 50-150 grit diamond blade, I don't expect to get amazing results like when you have your blades professionally sharpened with 8000 grit. The free hand method has me skeptical as well.
The finer the grit the better, coarse grits tend to chip the carbide
how does that sharpen the blades? it seems like that would flatten them?
Good video, thanks for sharing. I already have a diamond blade, so guess what I'll be doing next time the blade isn't cutting as it should be. Cheers.
Thanks for the video, I like the drywall jig...great idea!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and inspire others to share theirs.
You can tilt your table saw blade to do the other type... Just skip the other tooth then go back threw it after you reverse the angle. I clean up the tooth's top with a hand dimond file... eBay cheapo's hold up quite well for a four or five dollar file. I've stopped on a trim job and touched up my chopsaw blade while having a beverage... Takes you 10 mins by hand... Why would you put on a new one for fifty bucks? I think the guys that don't do this are clueless! I got a whole set of little files... I just touched up a 3/8" spade bit... My brother in law hit a nail while we where putting up hit backyard fence... Took five minutes! Why yo be ...man! Keep on rockin in the free world !!!
Totally agree. Even the brand new spade bits I've bought aren't as sharp as I can get them with a chainsaw file.
Tilt is almost never needed on the face of the carbide. Just touch up the face at 90 degrees and you're ready to go. Use very light pressure and you will get much better edges on the carbide tips.
do you think it would be possible to sharpen bandsaw blades on the table saw using this method?
yes, with a little fineness.
Great video!!
I would have to mark the blade where I started....otherwise I would lose track !!
Great video. I am going to start sharpening mine to save a few bucks. I also sharpen chainsaw blades and drill bits to keep from wasting money.
Hey man! It works! Top job! ❤ cheers from Australia 👍
such a good solution. thank you for this!
all my blades have a left and right angle, but those you just sharpened do not any longer have the angles Hugh ?
Just walked past the dull blade I saved thinking it's got to be a waste to throw out. If not perfect, this must at least make them much better. Thanks!
I profess to know absolutely zero about blade sharpening, but the comment about the "limited edition drywall jig" was classic!
What about the HSS blade? There is one in the thumbnail.
I just tried this method. but i seem to be doing something wrong. Using a continuous diamond blade for cutting ceramics it definitely abrades the carbides but it's leaving micro chips on the edges of the teeth arguably making it even worst. I have the blade set up on a jig mounted through table saw runners and have reduced the blade (diamond) rpm by a factor of 2... still no luck
Excellent idea. I have a table top wet tile cutter which I can probably run dry using this method.
Just use the finest grit you can get a hold of. I think I'm using 600 right now.
@@frankgrizzo Well I was going to use my diamond cutting blade. I didn't think they came in different grits?
@@ArcanePath360 They don't really advertise the grits on those blades. I ended up with this blade so I'd know the grit: www.amazon.com/Diamond-Grinding-Facing-Carbide-Circle/dp/B00A52VN4U/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=diamond+saw+sharpening&qid=1583685778&sr=8-27
@@ArcanePath360 The Arbor hole is 1" 1/4" though so it may not work for a table saw like the video. I'm using it on a grinder.
Sam thank you for the tutorial. I'm going to try your method.
Isn’t there a slight bevel on each tooth generally
Very useful. I’ll give it a try.
On the other hand you should never use gloves with a circular saw! They won’t protect you from getting cut. They would pull your whole hand in. Without gloves you might get away with just a little nick if you’re lucky. With gloves you’ll lose your whole hand.
Same goes for rings, loose sleeves or long hair.
OR,
You can mount the dull blade on backwards, turn it on & GENTLY
touch the spinning edge of the dull backwards mounted blade
with a sharpening stone.
!
I like your Ducati there in the back ground
What grit diamond blade?
Can a smaller diamond blade be used? Can it be 7.25 inch rather than 10 inch?
The finer grit the better. Mine is a little to course and can flake the carbide if I push to hard. Either would work.
The only problem I have with this method is that you are producing sparks (although not massive) that fly into a table saw which by its nature has a lot of residual sawdust in it. The potential for fire is quite large.
Great video...thank you.
Going to make a sled using both miter slots, on the cross peice ( bridge ) I will install an appropriate size dowel in the center to rotate the blade around then slide into the diamond blade... sharpen... slide out... rotate around the dowel... slide in...repeat :--)
Try and find a blade that's around 600grit. The one I used in the video is too coarse.
Im not trying to be rude, just offering some of my knowledge. One more thing, the blade with bevel in the carbide is called a piraña blade. It was made by black and decker as a multi purpose skill saw blade in the late '80's. It takes a custome made diamond wheel to sharpen, I have a saw with that blade so I have that diamond wheel in my shop.
HEY rocket, great Vid ! You might try using a piece of shingle to sharpen blades with the alternating angle .....
Is there an easy way to identify a blade with carbide on the teeth?
+Shaun Hill Carbide blades are immediately distinguishable from the old high-speed steel variety. The carbide cutting edges are brazed to a steel body. You cannot mistake the two.
A useful video, that's got me thinking...
Why not a sled that fits in to the table slots. Upon it can be mounted an adjustable arbor mount that can be positioned according to the blade size. Stops can also be incorporated to assist is stabling the blade being sharpened... Or you could use a piece of drywall.
BTW, selling the Ducati?... Either fix that beauty and ride it or sell it!
always use a dust mask when grinding carbide. heavy metals in your lungs stay there forever. used to work in a carbide shop 40 years ago. breathing problems were common for the workers there. the dust even managed to go right through your clothes into your pores.
Might work for a few times, but for correct sharpening you should joint the tips first. That will get all points/tips the same length. Then you sharpen the face back to where the jointed tip (land) just disappears.
Cool thanks man. Going to Lowe's tomorrow. Have a dado set that needs sharpening et et et.
The finer the diamond grit the better.
The Rocket Factory
Can't hardly here you!!!
Did you mean to say here you, or did you mean to say hear you? ....and did you mean can't, or did you really mean can?
Limited addition drywall jig...
$$$
+The Rocket Factory :)
+The Rocket Factory Do you sell em? I give you 40 for the drywall jig.
Low balling me.
Not fancy but practical!