You are exactly right about blade accuracy. You're cutting wood, not metal. Great jig, simple and effective. I would set up a stop block on the fence to prevent cutting too deep.
I made one of these today with a few mods. No arm, just a straight opening for the bolt about 5 inches long in the right place for a 10" blade. Made the table angle at 45 degrees. Used a 1000 grit wheel. Used a 1/2" carriage bolt with a 1/2" to 5/8" bushing to keep the saw stable. Put 3 small sheet metal screws in a semi-circle beneath the saw blade to stop it from wobbling and voila! I have a saw sharpening jig and 4 sharp blades to use. Thanks for the idea and the video.
Top notch video and method. My favourite part of your video is where you say "I'm not making jet engine parts!" which is a phrase that I often use when I see colleagues faffing around with detail which matters not one jot. The woodworkers, joiners, carpenters, engineers etc. I admire the most are the ones who see through the BS mists of striving for totally unnecessary levels of perfection, get stuck in and get the job done with pragmatism.
Great video I’m ashamed that I never thought of doing this, thousand dollars of old blades over my 45 years of business can be revived ! Thank you for your video 👍🏻
Well, I'm 4 years late but, I just copied your design. Have to order the sharpening disc and the 2 stabilizers. I think it's going to work purdy good. Thanks to you for sharing.
You will be shocked at how well it works. Just remember two important things: You don't have to take much material away (just a couple of light bumps against the disc), and remember to clean the blade. The pitch that collects on the side of the blade just behind the tooth can really cause a blade to drag, even when it's still sharp.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I cleaned my blades yesterday. The sharpening disc I ordered is thicker than the one on your video. I just hope it gives me some wiggle room while going in to sharpen. I also got the stabilizers. Neither have arrived yet. Can't wait to try it out.
Hey FWW Just want to say "I like your style," im 61 and I can't count the times that some people have told me " that won't work or you can't do that ", I used to get frustrated and in some cases got my feelings hurt because I looked up to that person . Some years ago I learned when people are negative, I respectfully put space between us and try to associate with more positive and supportive ( like minded ) people. I'm inspired by people like you and praise your efforts to get out information to help people like me do things for myself even if it cost more than paying for someone to do it for me. The moral of my story is " when someone says " it can't be done " , until I see for myself , I only hear " it can't be done by them" Thanks for vidio M L Rogers Pasadena, TX
Thank you Sir! Your encouragement means a great deal to me. Sometimes I get down, not only because of the trolls, but because I doubt my ability to get my point or the concept across to the viewer. Thanks for listening to what I'm saying, and also to what I'm trying to say. Folks like you make RUclips a great place.
I sharpen my carbide circular saw blades by hand. I like you "table saw jig." When I built my sharpen jig it was for the circular saw blades. I used a dremel tool and still do. I get 4 or 5 resharpenings per blade. Now I have a table saw and thanks to you have a new project. Peace!
Hey Franklin, New subscrib'r . I just saw you video on saw blade sharpening & it was great. I approve of your method & will try it. I have no experience ..but.... I'm retired (85) builder & engineer & now spend my time in my wood shop and appreciate a shop that 'looks' worked in. I don't trust other DIY videos of shops that are 'clean' mine surly looks worked in. You are so right about every piece of wood cuts a little different so no use in getting carried away with precision. Thanks, Lee
Thank you for the encouragement. I'm currently in the process of getting some land for my dream shop. I hope to be up and running again in about 6 months, so more videos will be coming soon.
When searching how to sharpen blades I often see people say send them off or sharpen them ridiculously acurate. This is definitely a relief, I look forward to making one. I love woodworking but am pretty new at doing things a right way. Thanks.
Dang I was hoping for a plan. I guess I’m going to have to just watch the video over and over again. Lol. It’s just what I’m looking for. Great videos. You’ve helped me a lot over my growing woodworking journey. Thanks
I like this one. When I was a framer I knew an old guy who'd lost all his fingers changing a 20" split rim tire, that exploded. He sharpened steel skillsaw blades with a file and 1" finger stumps. He was (almost) as good as the machine sharpeners and we like to support the old guy. What you are doing is far more precise than him.
You Sir have made the finest, simplest, to the point, most succinct How To Video I have ever seen. Take notice all you 'how to' video producing, professionals, armatures and wanna-be's. I am building this Jig ASAP. So from this 80 year old retiree who has seen oh so many videos, THANK YOU!
Couldn't find the plans for it but just finished what I interrupted from the video and am waiting for the disk and stabilizers to get here. Thanks again.
Well, the disc and stabilizers arrived in good order so I mounted one of my blades on my DIY version of FRANKLIN's "DIY Circular Saw Blade Sharpening Jig" and in about an hour my 3 main table saw blades were sharp. FINE as frog's hair! No muss, no fuss, Just mounted the first blade, set the angle and started to sharpen that blade. Next blade and Next Blade. An absolutely perfect PLUG N' PLAY jig. Try it, you'll love it!. So to quote the Master, " I get sharp blades. So there.
I had been thinking about knife sharpening and gave it some thought while building my own knife sharpening jig. I came to the conclusion that the angle recommended are probably never achieved but were probably close. And for general purposes, the important thing is that they are the same every time you sharpen. Since all jigs are probably a bit different in the angles, it is best to use the same jig so the "errors" are the same. The same probably applies to your jig.
I agree with your theory / thoughts on sharpening in general i did Woodworking for over 20 years as my living and i did sharpen all of my tools in a non scientific way or a highly precise method often i had to “dress “ up a tool on a jobsite with either a file or a belt sander and my eye instead of any fancy jig or machine and in all honesty it worked fine my main work was installing custom cabinetry so i used Fuller brand HSS Countersinks to drill hundreds of screw holes now I’m sure on occasion i shortened the lifespan of some of my countersinks but they cost me around 8 dollars a peice In bulk and that was the cost of doing business IMO ironically i still have everyone ive ever bought in my life and i can use them like the day i purchased them i did one time get a drill bit sharpening kit for a Christmas present that was a Chinese made piece of junk that made things worse i threw it away and went back to my old ways on very rare occasions i would sit down with all my chisels And fine tune my very good ones but in all honesty I peered using a old set ofSears Craftsman chisels i bought years before i was a professional as those it didnt seam to be that big of a deal if i hit a hidden staple or accidently dropped one on a concrete floor in the commercial buildings i had to work in Of course my expensive chisels I tried to use in my personal shop or projects where i was more in a controlled enviorment Just to be clear one of my good chisels cost as much as the entire Craftsman set I spoke about and that set helped me learn the trade when i was much younger
Just a couple of comments, nothing critical. Yes, the 40 degree tilt is good, ideal is 45 degrees for those who wish to make your jig. The reason for the angle is that you want the saw blade to approach the sharpening blade at a 90 degree angle since that gives you the best sharpening angle. Second, your swing arm will still introduce error into your sharpening, it is too narrow. Make it trianglar, wide end that holds the bolt for the blade. Third, 600 grit would have been good enough but your wheel is spinning too quickly, hence the need for 1000 grit to compensate for the higher speed. Ideally, you want that sharpening wheel to turn at no more than 1750 rpm. Since you are lightly touching the carbide material to the wheel heat build up is not an issue. If you have a pulley drive system then changing the two pulleys to a dual groove pair will reduce your speed sufficiently. The fourth point is that many blades have angled faces. Rip blades have teeth like chisels, set at 90 degrees to the surface of the blade. examine the old rip hand saws and compare then to their cross cut counterparts. Crosscut blades are usually set in an alternating angle several degrees from 90. Hence, one would need to make the table adjustable. Finally, drill a hole close to the pivot point where you can insert a dowel as your safety device to prevent accidents of blade travel. Yes, I know, it can't happen, but I have plenty of scars on my hands from accidents that can't happen. Out of all the systems I have seen, yours has the best design I have seen. Your system works close enough. Could it be refined? Yes, but that adds complexity and unless you a professional, complexity is a handicap.
Thank you for your comments. Rarely do folks write such well thought out suggestions. All of the points you make are extremely valid, and I'm mulling through them to see what I can reasonably incorporate. The swing arm is a great idea, and will be easily added. The dowel you mentioned, is that to keep the blade from rotating or the swing arm from moving? When I was designing the jig, I looked at all of my blades, and the specs are all 90 degree faces. I may need to consider the jig if I buy another blade. Thank you so much for the comments, and thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks. Based on Marta's comments, a Shopsmith could be beneficial in sharpening saw blades with your jig. With it's variable-speed spindle, you can adjust the speed between 700 and 5000 RPM. Also, you can tilt the table so those blades with alternating bevels on the carbide teeth could be sharpened easily, although I expect you could accomplish the same thing by simply tilting the saw arbor, sharpening half the teeth on one side of the diamond wheel, and then flip the blade over, and do the other half. The Shopsmith also has a quill feed with an adjustable stop so that you could advance the diamond wheel into the saw blade (rather than moving the saw blade into the diamond wheel) and this likely would result in consistently removing the same amount of carbide from each tooth. I'll have to give your jig a try, Thanks again.
Try applying a magic marker coating to the first tooth to be sharpened. After touching the tooth to the grinding disk, check your coating. If there is a little color near the tip of the tooth, move your jig a hair to the left. If there is a little color near the base of the tooth, move your jig a hair to the right. If all the magic marker is gone... perfect!
You rock !! I have been searching for a simple circular saw blade sharpening jig, that I could incorporate into my current set of tool options (using either a miter saw or table saw for the work). Your invention not only fit that bill, you do a good job of explaining how you came up with the design, and why it works for you (which I took as why it might also work for me, given I'm cutting wood for general home projects, not building nuclear reactors). Keep up the good work, it is appreciated. Cheers.
Texas Goldilocks Thanks for the "Where to Get..." lap wheel. Nice quick and EZ video too. A few months ago I mounted my angle grinder, using the side bolt hole in a vertical position and elevated the saw blade horizontally and achieved similar good results. I have a very rare full kerf 59 tooth carbide 7.25 in. blade that thinks it's a smoother and succeeds nicely,tho Inever have found that missing tooth. Adios
Anything that keeps my wife happy. My shop is in my basement, and if my blades are sharp enough to not burn the wood I'm cutting, I'm not exiled to the garage. I don't mind working out there, but winter is coming and I live in Michigan.
Great job !! I recently bought a shop that uses 14" blades so I have do learn to sharpen them I like your jig thanks for the video, Ivan In Nova Scotia
Your approach to the sharpenning requirement is great. And the final conclusion is magnificent. Is the result is what you expected, good cutting, then the employed sharpenning procesos rocks! Congratulations And keep UP the great attitude!
Hallelujah! You nailed it. Theres so many ways to make a box. Use your way. If it works for you, who wins? Loved the video. You have another subscriber.
Great job. I think people should also realize that cleaning a blade of pitch helps a lot too. I am looking to sharpen all my blades just out of convenience. It's a measly $20 for a 90 tooth CMT blade from my sharpening company, so it's not the money. I have gotten amazing results with simply cleaning the blade, and very gently sharpening with a DMT 1000 grit block(by hand). I'm a finish carpenter, and a sharp, stable blade is critical to my work. I have had the same 90 tooth CMT blade on my chop saw, and 50 tooth glue line rip blade on my table saw for over a year and a half. Cleaning at the end of big jobs. I have the blades dated, just to see how many years I can get out of them. And at this rate, I'll be long gone before they don't cut perfectly.. LOL Your video is very thorough, and well done. So, thank you for your input on this subject...
Couldn't agree more. In one of my last videos I talked about how a good cleaning will generally solve the "dull blade.". The burning and binding is often because of pitch buildup, making your tools act like the blade is dull. I'm glad I have the jig, but since I've started a good cleaning regimen, I rarely sharpen.
Thank you for your comment about how wood moves when it is cut. I have an old Shopsmith 10er jointer I couldn’t get Coplaner between the infeed and outfeed tables closer than about .004. I bought a bigger jointer with a shelix head, and that is working well for me. I’m thinking of selling my SS jointer but didn’t want to pass on a problem for someone else. Sometimes too picky is just that. I have since learned I have to sand my glue ups because they are too smooth for glue. Thank you for the video and information confirmation.
I turn hard woods of all kinds, domestic and exotic. I also sharpen all my tools with a Robert Sorby Pro Edge. All my tools are extremely sharp. So sharp in fact that I can turn “Rock Oak” that has been cured for 30 years like it was butter. My tools are so sharp that I accidentally drop a gouge and of course I went to catch it and I caught it alright and it cut my hand. I didn’t even realize it until I saw the blood dripping on the floor. I guess that was sharp enough! Best regards, Richard
Very good video, now a subscriber. I don’t believe one should expect ultra precision from power tools. If you are doing fine detail work you’ll end up using a shooting board and hand plane after the power tool work is done. Thanks for the ideas, going to build one myself.
You don't need to justify why you do what you do! If it gets you from square one to square two and you are satisfied that is good enough. Sometimes people that think they know everything should be avoided. I personally try to have my projects as accurate as possible but when you cut wood you generally go the the jointer to true an edge. There goes your saw cut? Have a great day and don't waste your time explaining to people that don't want to hear!
Thanks for the video, I made a jig for my table saw blades and am learning how to use it. I got 10 blades and .35 a tooth is expensive. Plus this gives me something to do. Pay no attention to the "arm chair" pros.
Great video. I hope it because it is early morning but it took me half way through the video to understand WHY the 5/8 carriage bolt was so important. It could be stage 4 also. Gotta try this as I have over a dozen 10 inch somewhat less than pristine blades.
Proof is in the cut.if it dont cut properly. Sharpen it again. How many drill bits do we sharpen freehand on grinding wheel. Some work some dont. I like your determination. Especially with prior negative comments. If you first dont succeed try again. I'm definitely going to make an angled jig.this makes way more sense. Maybe add an indexing pin. Thanks for this video. 👍
Excellent Jig. Thank you for posting the build process.The results speak for themselves. I am going to build one too!! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
Well done and well explained. The result was impressive. I agree we're not making machine parts for NASA. That said, i've not been brave enough to DYI sharpen my $150 blades. :)
I understand your position on a top quality blades like "Forester". For my purposes, I've pretty well standardized on "Freud/Diablo" blades for most tasks. Here in Canada, a Diablo 10" X 60 tooth blade sells new for $55, but the best sharpening price at local shops is $1 per tooth. $5 cheaper to just scrap the blade and buy a new one. Luckily, I don't actually throw anything away, lol. I'll be building this jig to see what I can recover.
Great video and idea. I have one of those harbor freight sharpeners but its very cantankerous to use and the diamond blade is very course. I will make one of these for my shop to sharpen the 6 or 8 blades I have accumulated. I do contribute to making jet engine parts and can attest that the level of tolerance we adhere to are not necessary in my woodshop. Thank you sir for the video.
Thanks for the kind words. If you look for the same kind of lap wheel I used, they have grits from 120 up to around 2000. I used 600, but may try 1000 in the future.
Nice jig. Correct me if I'm wrong, but do the teeth not have a side angle, too? Making the jig swivel on the runner would be a good solution to change the side angle. Just a suggestion.
I know that some blades have a "side angle," but none of mine do. I have thought about this problem, and swiveling the entire jig would require a complete redesign, because more adjustability would be required in the arm that holds the blade. There may be a way to simply tilt the jig, but I'll have to think on that. Thanks for watching.
Some do. I've had many folks point that out to me. However, in all the blades I've ever purchased - rip, combination, fine tooth, miter saw ( both cheap and expensive on all), I've never encountered one. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Most people might think that failing to control the depth of grind with the jig would be a serious issue. The fact that it isn't is not that hard to understand. For the square faced blades you have, the three most important aspects of tooth geometry are squareness of face to blade, hook angle, and consistent tooth height. Your jig controls the hook angle and face squareness. Tooth height would appear to be unchanged, but can be affected by differences in grind depth between teeth. If the top of each tooth were square to its face, grinding a different amount from each face would not result in any difference of height. But, teeth have a small clearance or relief angle behind the cutting tip to allow chips to clear. If the slope of this is 10%, then a tooth is shortened only one tenth as much as is ground off the face. So a 0.1mm difference between the thickness of two teeth would only result in 0.01mm difference in height. Most cuts are through cuts and would not be affected anyway. But even in embedded cuts, the difference would be virtually unnoticeable I think. I don't know if you were thinking about these things when you designed the jig, but I think you distilled it to its most elegant and simple form.
You know how sometimes you intuitively know a thing, but it isn't until someone puts it into words in an organized thought pattern when light bulb over your head comes to life? You did that for me today. Thank you for that.
Good and easy to do. But I cant find the type of sharpening wheel you use and where can I buy it. Your help would be appreciate. I like your attitude. I am french so excuse my english Tank you and keep going good projets.
How does it accommodate alternate bevel blades like the idea but don't want to ruin may alternate bevels saw blades. Seem ok for RIP teeth on a rip blade or flat/raker tooth on an alternate bevel blade.
You're right, it's mainly designed for rip blades. But it is doable if you're willing to put in the time. You could mark every other tooth, or which ever teeth it applies to, shim up one side of the jig, sharpen those teeth, then shim up the other side for the alternating teeth. Lot of trouble, but it's relatively free. I'd practice on a blade I don't care about.
I was looking for a video on how to sharpen chainsaw blades when I happened across this vid of yours. Great job man! So you used what 6" wheel to sharpen with, the Uxcell 6" 600 grit diamond or something else? I have a ton of blades and a few of them need a little help, after a friend cut through metal with them. lol
My uncle in the 1960 and 70 s purchased a machine that factory sharpened saw blades He rebuilt post offices back when a postal employee did it rather than contracting it out Anyway he had the problem of fellow employees would use his blades also until one guy was off for a long time because he cut 4 of his fingers off so he didn’t have liability insurance so the P.O. told him not to share his blades
Looks great, what many people forget is after a while you just get a "feel " for how much you take off and the best angels with time. Tweeking as you go. What RPM did you use on a 150 mm (6 inch ) wheel? What grit size would be best? Thanks Steve.
Thanks for the comment and the question. My table saw runs at 3450 RPM. I know most contractor style table saw run closer to 5,000 RPM. I started with a 600 grit wheel, but have since upgraded to a 1000 grit (same price). I'm glad I have both. Have you ever heard the saying "Fix one problem, and cause another?" What I've learned through the whole process, is there's no substitute for a clean, sharp blade. It has to be both, not just one. My sharpener worked so well, I pretty much stopped cleaning my blades, and my cuts were suffering because of that. I spoke to Izzy Swan right before he put out his recent video on cleaning blades, and he reminded me how a clean blade is super important. Hope this helps.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Heck, I count myself lucky if I learn one thing from watching a video. In the case of this video, I've learned 4 things so far (and I'm only part way through reading the comments). I'm going to build an enclosure to the rear of my chop saw to better capture and contain sawdust; I'm going to clean my blades on a regular basis and sharpen them a bit less often; I need to invest more time in reading the comments of videos I watch to glean more tidbits of wisdom along the way; and the quality of constructive feedback is proportional to the quality of the video production and of the producer/maker of the video. I'm a new subscriber and I am grateful for the time you took to help educate us. Thank you for sharing. Mike
@@mikekernan5388 Thank you for the kind words. I, too, am on the constant quest for how I can do things better (and as inexpensively as possible), so I really enjoy the ideas that folks exchange in the comments. You mentioned miter saw dust collection. Not to try to sell you another one of my videos, but have you seen my 2019 shop tour? At 4:57 in the video, I talk about the dust collection on my miter saw. I think many make the mistake of trying to collect the dust AT the miter saw, instead in the area behind it. In my experiments, a hood of some type with negative pressure - shop vac/dust collector - to draw the dust into the hood is the best way. I've been very satisfied with my set up.
Looks perfectly fine to me...and I love the push object for the 2'' wood piece...never thought of making one like that. Why do you need the ark in the 40 degree Jig? Couldn't one do it with a single bolt hole?
Here's a link for the Bosch. absupply.net/Bosch-PROSTAB-4In-Blade-Stabilizer-Arbor-58In.aspx But there are others that will work too... www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-STF-4-Blade-Stabilizers/dp/B000P4QGKO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8X6YSCNQ0RFH85BKJJC2
In my opinion, 1000 is as high as you should go. 600 - 1000 will work great, you just have to be very gentle with 600 so you don't remove too much carbide. And don't forget to clean the blade. A dirty blade can make you think it's dull. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a sketchup diagram of this device. I'd love to make my own. I don have a modification idea where it may be possible to change angles. If you have the plans, I'd like to try my experiment and if it works, I'll pass it back to you to use and for future reference.
I like your jig but I would ad a free flowing blade lock. Something to catch the teeth and not allow the blade to jerk or twist. I have a few ideas but nothing I can put into words. Just for safety mind you. Other than that I love it. Great video. I am liking and subscribing. Hope you to see lots more. Thanks
Guess I didn't know enough to be properly concerned but I did wear a pair of leather gloves and didn't have a problem. However, I did treat the whole sharpening exercise with TLC.
Can I ask what grit of disk you use ? I made a very similar jig and had the same problem . Ruined two blades the same way. So I will be ordering a disk very soon. Great video .
I initially bought a 600 grit disk, and it did the job. But, I could see the tiny scratches in in the carbide and worried that even that may be too rough on the carbide. So I got a 1000 grit disk, and the carbide looks like a mirror.
Thanks for the great information. I don't know if your sharpening was in fast motion or regular motion, but once you have the jig, it looks fairly easy. I'll have to try it.
The video was sped up a little, but I can do a 40 tooth blade in about 3 minutes, 80 tooth in a little over 6 minutes. One thing I learned through the whole process is that a sharp blade still needs to be cleaned. I became lax on the cleaning because I was always sure my blades were sharp, and my cuts began to suffer because I had pitch building up on the sides of the teeth. But a clean blade with sharp teeth is a beautiful thing.
It doesn't really matter. What is important is to make the radius as large as possible, and to make sure that at the lowest point, the blade you're sharpening doesn't bottom out on the surface of the table saw.
There are always miserable people that just hate life and are very jealous, those are the morons that leave negative comments all the time no matter what you make or do... I love your idea although I did not make this jig, I did buy a blade sharpening tool at harbor freight for $45.00 and it works perfectly fine. I have about 30 blades that I get sharpened and I got tired of spending $600 to do so... I sharpened all 30 blades for $60.00... 10% cost of sending them out and I can not tell a difference, they cut like butter... Thank for your DIY video...
You are exactly right about blade accuracy. You're cutting wood, not metal. Great jig, simple and effective. I would set up a stop block on the fence to prevent cutting too deep.
Stop block on the fence is a good idea, or maybe a "magswitch" on the cast iron top.
I made one of these today with a few mods. No arm, just a straight opening for the bolt about 5 inches long in the right place for a 10" blade. Made the table angle at 45 degrees. Used a 1000 grit wheel. Used a 1/2" carriage bolt with a 1/2" to 5/8" bushing to keep the saw stable. Put 3 small sheet metal screws in a semi-circle beneath the saw blade to stop it from wobbling and voila! I have a saw sharpening jig and 4 sharp blades to use. Thanks for the idea and the video.
I love it when folks can take an idea and make it work for them! Well done!
Top notch video and method. My favourite part of your video is where you say "I'm not making jet engine parts!" which is a phrase that I often use when I see colleagues faffing around with detail which matters not one jot. The woodworkers, joiners, carpenters, engineers etc. I admire the most are the ones who see through the BS mists of striving for totally unnecessary levels of perfection, get stuck in and get the job done with pragmatism.
Thank you for the video I appreciate people like you, not everyone needs a micrometer for woodworking. Good invention keep it up.
Great video I’m ashamed that I never thought of doing this, thousand dollars of old blades over my 45 years of business can be revived ! Thank you for your video 👍🏻
Well, I'm 4 years late but, I just copied your design. Have to order the sharpening disc and the 2 stabilizers. I think it's going to work purdy good. Thanks to you for sharing.
You will be shocked at how well it works. Just remember two important things: You don't have to take much material away (just a couple of light bumps against the disc), and remember to clean the blade. The pitch that collects on the side of the blade just behind the tooth can really cause a blade to drag, even when it's still sharp.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I cleaned my blades yesterday. The sharpening disc I ordered is thicker than the one on your video. I just hope it gives me some wiggle room while going in to sharpen. I also got the stabilizers. Neither have arrived yet. Can't wait to try it out.
Hey FWW
Just want to say "I like your style," im 61 and I can't count the times that some people have told me " that won't work or you can't do that ", I used to get frustrated and in some cases got my feelings hurt because I looked up to that person . Some years ago I learned when people are negative, I respectfully put space between us and try to associate with more positive and supportive ( like minded ) people. I'm inspired by people like you and praise your efforts to get out information to help people like me do things for myself even if it cost more than paying for someone to do it for me. The moral of my story is " when someone says " it can't be done " , until I see for myself , I only hear " it can't be done by them"
Thanks for vidio
M L Rogers Pasadena, TX
Thank you Sir! Your encouragement means a great deal to me. Sometimes I get down, not only because of the trolls, but because I doubt my ability to get my point or the concept across to the viewer. Thanks for listening to what I'm saying, and also to what I'm trying to say. Folks like you make RUclips a great place.
Great idea, I was thinking of buying a blade sharpening jig but looking at yours I'll be making my own now, thanks
I sharpen my carbide circular saw blades by hand. I like you "table saw jig." When I built my sharpen jig it was for the circular saw blades. I used a dremel tool and still do. I get 4 or 5 resharpenings per blade. Now I have a table saw and thanks to you have a new project. Peace!
Hey Franklin, New subscrib'r . I just saw you video on saw blade sharpening & it was great. I approve of your method & will try it. I have no experience ..but.... I'm retired (85) builder & engineer & now spend my time in my wood shop and appreciate a shop that 'looks' worked in. I don't trust other DIY videos of shops that are 'clean' mine surly looks worked in. You are so right about every piece of wood cuts a little different so no use in getting carried away with precision.
Thanks, Lee
Thank you for the encouragement. I'm currently in the process of getting some land for my dream shop. I hope to be up and running again in about 6 months, so more videos will be coming soon.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016
Be careful with size of new shop ! I thought mine was big enough but guess what? I filled it up & need more space.
Lee
When searching how to sharpen blades I often see people say send them off or sharpen them ridiculously acurate. This is definitely a relief, I look forward to making one. I love woodworking but am pretty new at doing things a right way. Thanks.
There are many ways to sharping saw blades on youtube, and thanks to you, I now know how I will do it from now on. Once again thank you.
Dang I was hoping for a plan. I guess I’m going to have to just watch the video over and over again. Lol. It’s just what I’m looking for. Great videos. You’ve helped me a lot over my growing woodworking journey. Thanks
I like this one. When I was a framer I knew an old guy who'd lost all his fingers changing a 20" split rim tire, that exploded. He sharpened steel skillsaw blades with a file and 1" finger stumps. He was (almost) as good as the machine sharpeners and we like to support the old guy. What you are doing is far more precise than him.
well done will try it out..love your push stick .
You Sir have made the finest, simplest, to the point, most succinct How To Video I have ever seen. Take notice all you 'how to' video producing, professionals, armatures and wanna-be's. I am building this Jig ASAP. So from this 80 year old retiree who has seen oh so many videos, THANK YOU!
Couldn't find the plans for it but just finished what I interrupted from the video and am waiting for the disk and stabilizers to get here. Thanks again.
Well, the disc and stabilizers arrived in good order so I mounted one of my blades on my DIY version of FRANKLIN's "DIY Circular Saw Blade Sharpening Jig" and in about an hour my 3 main table saw blades were sharp. FINE as frog's hair! No muss, no fuss, Just mounted the first blade, set the angle and started to sharpen that blade. Next blade and Next Blade. An absolutely perfect PLUG N' PLAY jig. Try it, you'll love it!. So to quote the Master, " I get sharp blades. So there.
Great idea! The table saw is sharpening its own blade!
A.I.
I had been thinking about knife sharpening and gave it some thought while building my own knife sharpening jig. I came to the conclusion that the angle recommended are probably never achieved but were probably close. And for general purposes, the important thing is that they are the same every time you sharpen. Since all jigs are probably a bit different in the angles, it is best to use the same jig so the "errors" are the same. The same probably applies to your jig.
I agree with your theory / thoughts on sharpening in general i did Woodworking for over 20 years as my living and i did sharpen all of my tools in a non scientific way or a highly precise method often i had to “dress “ up a tool on a jobsite with either a file or a belt sander and my eye instead of any fancy jig or machine and in all honesty it worked fine my main work was installing custom cabinetry so i used Fuller brand HSS Countersinks to drill hundreds of screw holes now I’m sure on occasion i shortened the lifespan of some of my countersinks but they cost me around 8 dollars a peice In bulk and that was the cost of doing business IMO ironically i still have everyone ive ever bought in my life and i can use them like the day i purchased them i did one time get a drill bit sharpening kit for a Christmas present that was a Chinese made piece of junk that made things worse i threw it away and went back to my old ways on very rare occasions i would sit down with all my chisels And fine tune my very good ones but in all honesty I peered using a old set ofSears Craftsman chisels i bought years before i was a professional as those it didnt seam to be that big of a deal if i hit a hidden staple or accidently dropped one on a concrete floor in the commercial buildings i had to work in Of course my expensive chisels I tried to use in my personal shop or projects where i was more in a controlled enviorment Just to be clear one of my good chisels cost as much as the entire Craftsman set I spoke about and that set helped me learn the trade when i was much younger
Just a couple of comments, nothing critical. Yes, the 40 degree tilt is good, ideal is 45 degrees for those who wish to make your jig. The reason for the angle is that you want the saw blade to approach the sharpening blade at a 90 degree angle since that gives you the best sharpening angle. Second, your swing arm will still introduce error into your sharpening, it is too narrow. Make it trianglar, wide end that holds the bolt for the blade. Third, 600 grit would have been good enough but your wheel is spinning too quickly, hence the need for 1000 grit to compensate for the higher speed. Ideally, you want that sharpening wheel to turn at no more than 1750 rpm. Since you are lightly touching the carbide material to the wheel heat build up is not an issue. If you have a pulley drive system then changing the two pulleys to a dual groove pair will reduce your speed sufficiently. The fourth point is that many blades have angled faces. Rip blades have teeth like chisels, set at 90 degrees to the surface of the blade. examine the old rip hand saws and compare then to their cross cut counterparts. Crosscut blades are usually set in an alternating angle several degrees from 90. Hence, one would need to make the table adjustable. Finally, drill a hole close to the pivot point where you can insert a dowel as your safety device to prevent accidents of blade travel. Yes, I know, it can't happen, but I have plenty of scars on my hands from accidents that can't happen.
Out of all the systems I have seen, yours has the best design I have seen. Your system works close enough. Could it be refined? Yes, but that adds complexity and unless you a professional, complexity is a handicap.
Thank you for your comments. Rarely do folks write such well thought out suggestions. All of the points you make are extremely valid, and I'm mulling through them to see what I can reasonably incorporate. The swing arm is a great idea, and will be easily added. The dowel you mentioned, is that to keep the blade from rotating or the swing arm from moving? When I was designing the jig, I looked at all of my blades, and the specs are all 90 degree faces. I may need to consider the jig if I buy another blade. Thank you so much for the comments, and thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks.
Based on Marta's comments, a Shopsmith could be beneficial in sharpening saw blades with your jig. With it's variable-speed spindle, you can adjust the speed between 700 and 5000 RPM. Also, you can tilt the table so those blades with alternating bevels on the carbide teeth could be sharpened easily, although I expect you could accomplish the same thing by simply tilting the saw arbor, sharpening half the teeth on one side of the diamond wheel, and then flip the blade over, and do the other half. The Shopsmith also has a quill feed with an adjustable stop so that you could advance the diamond wheel into the saw blade (rather than moving the saw blade into the diamond wheel) and this likely would result in consistently removing the same amount of carbide from each tooth.
I'll have to give your jig a try, Thanks again.
Try applying a magic marker coating to the first tooth to be sharpened. After touching the tooth to the grinding disk, check your coating. If there is a little color near the tip of the tooth, move your jig a hair to the left. If there is a little color near the base of the tooth, move your jig a hair to the right. If all the magic marker is gone... perfect!
You rock !! I have been searching for a simple circular saw blade sharpening jig, that I could incorporate into my current set of tool options (using either a miter saw or table saw for the work). Your invention not only fit that bill, you do a good job of explaining how you came up with the design, and why it works for you (which I took as why it might also work for me, given I'm cutting wood for general home projects, not building nuclear reactors). Keep up the good work, it is appreciated. Cheers.
Texas Goldilocks
Thanks for the "Where to Get..." lap wheel. Nice quick and EZ video too. A few months ago I mounted my angle grinder, using the side bolt hole in a vertical position and elevated the saw blade horizontally and achieved similar good results. I have a very rare full kerf 59 tooth carbide 7.25 in. blade that thinks it's a smoother and succeeds nicely,tho Inever have found that missing tooth. Adios
Good job 1st time I've ever heard about the angle jig
Anything that keeps my wife happy. My shop is in my basement, and if my blades are sharp enough to not burn the wood I'm cutting, I'm not exiled to the garage.
I don't mind working out there, but winter is coming and I live in Michigan.
Thanks for the video
I just bought one of the discs
Thanks
Great job !! I recently bought a shop that uses 14" blades so I have do learn to sharpen them I like your jig thanks for the video, Ivan In Nova Scotia
Loved your circular blade sharpener guide, an I have stack of old blades just waiting, Thanks! Tim & Harley
Your approach to the sharpenning requirement is great. And the final conclusion is magnificent. Is the result is what you expected, good cutting, then the employed sharpenning procesos rocks! Congratulations And keep UP the great attitude!
Hallelujah! You nailed it. Theres so many ways to make a box. Use your way. If it works for you, who wins? Loved the video. You have another subscriber.
Good solution for my expensive pile of used blades! Great vid, thanks fella!!
Aussie Dave 😉👍
Great job. I think people should also realize that cleaning a blade of pitch helps a lot too. I am looking to sharpen all my blades just out of convenience. It's a measly $20 for a 90 tooth CMT blade from my sharpening company, so it's not the money.
I have gotten amazing results with simply cleaning the blade, and very gently sharpening with a DMT 1000 grit block(by hand).
I'm a finish carpenter, and a sharp, stable blade is critical to my work. I have had the same 90 tooth CMT blade on my chop saw, and 50 tooth glue line rip blade on my table saw for over a year and a half. Cleaning at the end of big jobs. I have the blades dated, just to see how many years I can get out of them. And at this rate, I'll be long gone before they don't cut perfectly.. LOL
Your video is very thorough, and well done. So, thank you for your input on this subject...
Couldn't agree more. In one of my last videos I talked about how a good cleaning will generally solve the "dull blade.". The burning and binding is often because of pitch buildup, making your tools act like the blade is dull. I'm glad I have the jig, but since I've started a good cleaning regimen, I rarely sharpen.
A clean blade indeed is important. I got a teflon coated blade that never sticks as it does not collect pitch.
@@1959Berre What kind of blades do you use? I have some with a whiz-bang coating on them, but they still collect pitch.
Excellent! Thanks for saving me money!
Thank you for your comment about how wood moves when it is cut. I have an old Shopsmith 10er jointer I couldn’t get Coplaner between the infeed and outfeed tables closer than about .004. I bought a bigger jointer with a shelix head, and that is working well for me. I’m thinking of selling my SS jointer but didn’t want to pass on a problem for someone else.
Sometimes too picky is just that. I have since learned I have to sand my glue ups because they are too smooth for glue.
Thank you for the video and information confirmation.
I'll take it!
Awesome I've got a pile of blades that need to be sharpend. I will have to look into this jig.
Looks like you know what you're doing to me I like it
I turn hard woods of all kinds, domestic and exotic. I also sharpen all my tools with a Robert Sorby Pro Edge. All my tools are extremely sharp. So sharp in fact that I can turn “Rock Oak” that has been cured for 30 years like it was butter. My tools are so sharp that I accidentally drop a gouge and of course I went to catch it and I caught it alright and it cut my hand. I didn’t even realize it until I saw the blood dripping on the floor. I guess that was sharp enough! Best regards, Richard
Very good video, now a subscriber. I don’t believe one should expect ultra precision from power tools. If you are doing fine detail work you’ll end up using a shooting board and hand plane after the power tool work is done. Thanks for the ideas, going to build one myself.
You don't need to justify why you do what you do! If it gets you from square one to square two and you are satisfied that is good enough. Sometimes people that think they know everything should be avoided. I personally try to have my projects as accurate as possible but when you cut wood you generally go the the jointer to true an edge. There goes your saw cut?
Have a great day and don't waste your time explaining to people that don't want to hear!
Thanks for the video, I made a jig for my table saw blades and am learning how to use it. I got 10 blades and .35 a tooth is expensive. Plus this gives me something to do. Pay no attention to the "arm chair" pros.
Brilliant jig, I am always up for sharpening my own blades Thank you.Frank,from Ireland
Great video. I hope it because it is early morning but it took me half way through the video to understand WHY the 5/8 carriage bolt was so important. It could be stage 4 also. Gotta try this as I have over a dozen 10 inch somewhat less than pristine blades.
Thank-You for taking the time to make a very through video for us.
Who gives a rip (pun intended) what anyone says if your blades can make cuts like that! subbed brotha ✊🏻🇨🇦🇺🇸
Proof is in the cut.if it dont cut properly. Sharpen it again.
How many drill bits do we sharpen freehand on grinding wheel. Some work some dont.
I like your determination. Especially with prior negative comments. If you first dont succeed try again.
I'm definitely going to make an angled jig.this makes way more sense. Maybe add an indexing pin.
Thanks for this video. 👍
Excellent Jig. Thank you for posting the build process.The results speak for themselves. I am going to build one too!! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
You are brilliant pal
Wow love it rob! I was excited about the last video and was disappointed when it was a fail.
people say your ruining it, what there to lose, most do not have a local blade sharpener around the corner.
Well done and well explained. The result was impressive. I agree we're not making machine parts for NASA. That said, i've not been brave enough to DYI sharpen my $150 blades. :)
Hardnox You caught me. I have two blades I haven't sharpened yet, both over $110 each. My excuse is they're not dull yet.
I understand your position on a top quality blades like "Forester". For my purposes, I've pretty well standardized on "Freud/Diablo" blades for most tasks. Here in Canada, a Diablo 10" X 60 tooth blade sells new for $55, but the best sharpening price at local shops is $1 per tooth. $5 cheaper to just scrap the blade and buy a new one.
Luckily, I don't actually throw anything away, lol. I'll be building this jig to see what I can recover.
Excelente guia, me dio una buena idea para sacar filo a mis discos. Saludos desde el norte de Chile maestro.
Nunca he estado en Chile, pero estuve en Argentina durante uno de sus famosos terremotos. Gracias por ver.
Great video and idea. I have one of those harbor freight sharpeners but its very cantankerous to use and the diamond blade is very course. I will make one of these for my shop to sharpen the 6 or 8 blades I have accumulated. I do contribute to making jet engine parts and can attest that the level of tolerance we adhere to are not necessary in my woodshop. Thank you sir for the video.
Thanks for the kind words. If you look for the same kind of lap wheel I used, they have grits from 120 up to around 2000. I used 600, but may try 1000 in the future.
Excellent idea and explanation. Thank you!
Well done mate. Top job.
Very wise words. Thank you for this video!
Loved the video and really liked how you handled future comments. Oh and yea the jig is great!
Thanks Richard. I always appreciate your support.
Nice job, I agree it works for me. Carry on
Nice video and the project well presented. Thanks
Might want to look into a way to index the blades to make it faster/easier to hit the same spot on each tooth.
Cracking tutorial,Thank you for posting.
Nice jig. Correct me if I'm wrong, but do the teeth not have a side angle, too? Making the jig swivel on the runner would be a good solution to change the side angle. Just a suggestion.
I know that some blades have a "side angle," but none of mine do. I have thought about this problem, and swiveling the entire jig would require a complete redesign, because more adjustability would be required in the arm that holds the blade. There may be a way to simply tilt the jig, but I'll have to think on that. Thanks for watching.
I'm going to build your jig. Thanks too much for sharing.
I'm with you all the way. Well said!
Your link goes to a 600 grit wheel. I thought something finer might be better. What is the grit you are actually using?
I've experimented with 320, 600, and 1,000. I can't tell the difference between the 600 and 1,000 - other than using the 1,000 takes longer.
Works for me! Simple and effective!
Right on bud.I 🤠🥳👍!
Nice.
Maybe add a stop on the fence to limit forward travel.
Q. Do saw blade teeth have an angle, or side bevel?
Some do. I've had many folks point that out to me. However, in all the blades I've ever purchased - rip, combination, fine tooth, miter saw ( both cheap and expensive on all), I've never encountered one. Maybe I'm just lucky.
FranklinWoodWorks Thanks for that info/advise..
Love it!
What a cool jig thanks
joseph woodhouse Thank You!
Most people might think that failing to control the depth of grind with the jig would be a serious issue. The fact that it isn't is not that hard to understand.
For the square faced blades you have, the three most important aspects of tooth geometry are squareness of face to blade, hook angle, and consistent tooth height.
Your jig controls the hook angle and face squareness. Tooth height would appear to be unchanged, but can be affected by differences in grind depth between teeth.
If the top of each tooth were square to its face, grinding a different amount from each face would not result in any difference of height. But, teeth have a small clearance or relief angle behind the cutting tip to allow chips to clear. If the slope of this is 10%, then a tooth is shortened only one tenth as much as is ground off the face. So a 0.1mm difference between the thickness of two teeth would only result in 0.01mm difference in height. Most cuts are through cuts and would not be affected anyway. But even in embedded cuts, the difference would be virtually unnoticeable I think.
I don't know if you were thinking about these things when you designed the jig, but I think you distilled it to its most elegant and simple form.
You know how sometimes you intuitively know a thing, but it isn't until someone puts it into words in an organized thought pattern when light bulb over your head comes to life? You did that for me today. Thank you for that.
Good and easy to do. But I cant find the type of sharpening wheel you use and where can I buy it. Your help would be appreciate. I like your attitude. I am french so excuse my english Tank you and keep going good projets.
I learned something: a cutting wheel is not a sharpening wheel. That is good to know, as I was about to make the same mistake.
Yeah, it cost me a nice blade.
I like it .
thank you Franklin, looks like you did it to me
Good video
Thank you sir!
How has the Diamond Coated Flat Lap Wheel held out? How many sharpenings before ordering a new wheel?
In the video you say the triangle is around 40 degrees and about 10” x 12”. Any chance I could buy a detailed set of plans for it?
Sorry, I don't do plans. But trust me, you can build this.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I’m almost done with it. I’m going to add a stop to it so all teeth get sharpened the same. Thank you for the post.
How does it accommodate alternate bevel blades like the idea but don't want to ruin may alternate bevels saw blades. Seem ok for RIP teeth on a rip blade or flat/raker tooth on an alternate bevel blade.
You're right, it's mainly designed for rip blades. But it is doable if you're willing to put in the time. You could mark every other tooth, or which ever teeth it applies to, shim up one side of the jig, sharpen those teeth, then shim up the other side for the alternating teeth. Lot of trouble, but it's relatively free. I'd practice on a blade I don't care about.
On wood, the smallest difference in thickness that can be seen is about .003in.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING SIR .
I was looking for a video on how to sharpen chainsaw blades when I happened across this vid of yours. Great job man! So you used what 6" wheel to sharpen with, the Uxcell 6" 600 grit diamond or something else? I have a ton of blades and a few of them need a little help, after a friend cut through metal with them. lol
Through my headset, you kinda sound like Billy Bob Thornton
With such a tidy shop, it's hard to imagine you ever worrying about .100'' tolerances
I like mustard on my biscuits.
Well, to be fair, I wasn't hearing Karl as much as I was hearing Malvo,,, "Aces!"
good job!!
Thank you!
Well done
My uncle in the 1960 and 70 s purchased a machine that factory sharpened saw blades
He rebuilt post offices back when a postal employee did it rather than contracting it out
Anyway he had the problem of fellow employees would use his blades also until one guy was off for a long time because he cut 4 of his fingers off so he didn’t have liability insurance so the P.O. told him not to share his blades
Looks great, what many people forget is after a while you just get a "feel " for how much you take off and the best angels with time. Tweeking as you go. What RPM did you use on a 150 mm (6 inch ) wheel? What grit size would be best? Thanks Steve.
Thanks for the comment and the question. My table saw runs at 3450 RPM. I know most contractor style table saw run closer to 5,000 RPM. I started with a 600 grit wheel, but have since upgraded to a 1000 grit (same price). I'm glad I have both. Have you ever heard the saying "Fix one problem, and cause another?" What I've learned through the whole process, is there's no substitute for a clean, sharp blade. It has to be both, not just one. My sharpener worked so well, I pretty much stopped cleaning my blades, and my cuts were suffering because of that. I spoke to Izzy Swan right before he put out his recent video on cleaning blades, and he reminded me how a clean blade is super important. Hope this helps.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Heck, I count myself lucky if I learn one thing from watching a video. In the case of this video, I've learned 4 things so far (and I'm only part way through reading the comments). I'm going to build an enclosure to the rear of my chop saw to better capture and contain sawdust; I'm going to clean my blades on a regular basis and sharpen them a bit less often; I need to invest more time in reading the comments of videos I watch to glean more tidbits of wisdom along the way; and the quality of constructive feedback is proportional to the quality of the video production and of the producer/maker of the video. I'm a new subscriber and I am grateful for the time you took to help educate us. Thank you for sharing. Mike
@@mikekernan5388 Thank you for the kind words. I, too, am on the constant quest for how I can do things better (and as inexpensively as possible), so I really enjoy the ideas that folks exchange in the comments. You mentioned miter saw dust collection. Not to try to sell you another one of my videos, but have you seen my 2019 shop tour? At 4:57 in the video, I talk about the dust collection on my miter saw. I think many make the mistake of trying to collect the dust AT the miter saw, instead in the area behind it. In my experiments, a hood of some type with negative pressure - shop vac/dust collector - to draw the dust into the hood is the best way. I've been very satisfied with my set up.
Looks perfectly fine to me...and I love the push object for the 2'' wood piece...never thought of making one like that. Why do you need the ark in the 40 degree Jig? Couldn't one do it with a single bolt hole?
Great video. Question. What did you use as the stabilizers on each side of the diamond wheel?
Thank you
Bosch PROSTAB 4In Blade Stabilizer-Arbor 5/8In. Runs around $15 for a set of two.
What is the link to the Bosch wheel?
Here's a link for the Bosch. absupply.net/Bosch-PROSTAB-4In-Blade-Stabilizer-Arbor-58In.aspx
But there are others that will work too... www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-STF-4-Blade-Stabilizers/dp/B000P4QGKO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8X6YSCNQ0RFH85BKJJC2
What’s the size and angle of the triangle side pieces?
You used Bosch yet link the recommended wheel you didn't use?
The Bosch items were stabilizers, the link to the lap wheel is accurate.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Ahhh, that explains it! Thank you for the clarification an speedy reply!
Awesome job, simple and effective. What grit lapping disc are you using? I was thinking of getting 1000 grit.
In my opinion, 1000 is as high as you should go. 600 - 1000 will work great, you just have to be very gentle with 600 so you don't remove too much carbide. And don't forget to clean the blade. A dirty blade can make you think it's dull. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a sketchup diagram of this device. I'd love to make my own. I don have a modification idea where it may be possible to change angles. If you have the plans, I'd like to try my experiment and if it works, I'll pass it back to you to use and for future reference.
Sorry, but I'm just not smart enough to figure out sketchup. I have tried, spent many hours with tutorials - I just can't get it.
I like your jig but I would ad a free flowing blade lock. Something to catch the teeth and not allow the blade to jerk or twist.
I have a few ideas but nothing I can put into words. Just for safety mind you. Other than that I love it. Great video. I am liking and subscribing. Hope you to see lots more. Thanks
Guess I didn't know enough to be properly concerned but I did wear a pair of leather gloves and didn't have a problem. However, I did treat the whole sharpening exercise with TLC.
Can I ask what grit of disk you use ? I made a very similar jig and had the same problem . Ruined two blades the same way. So I will be ordering a disk very soon. Great video .
I initially bought a 600 grit disk, and it did the job. But, I could see the tiny scratches in in the carbide and worried that even that may be too rough on the carbide. So I got a 1000 grit disk, and the carbide looks like a mirror.
I was thinking of getting the 600 or 1000 grit. Just wanted to see what you used. 1000 grit it is. very you.
Thank you .
Thanks for the great information. I don't know if your sharpening was in fast motion or regular motion, but once you have the jig, it looks fairly easy.
I'll have to try it.
The video was sped up a little, but I can do a 40 tooth blade in about 3 minutes, 80 tooth in a little over 6 minutes. One thing I learned through the whole process is that a sharp blade still needs to be cleaned. I became lax on the cleaning because I was always sure my blades were sharp, and my cuts began to suffer because I had pitch building up on the sides of the teeth. But a clean blade with sharp teeth is a beautiful thing.
if u have tons of patients you can hand sharpen blades with a flat diamond file
Can you tell me where you locate the pivot point on the jig? Does it line up with the saw blade on the jig from left to right or does it not matter!?
It doesn't really matter. What is important is to make the radius as large as possible, and to make sure that at the lowest point, the blade you're sharpening doesn't bottom out on the surface of the table saw.
Awesome... I love it... :-)
There are always miserable people that just hate life and are very jealous, those are the morons that leave negative comments all the time no matter what you make or do... I love your idea although I did not make this jig, I did buy a blade sharpening tool at harbor freight for $45.00 and it works perfectly fine. I have about 30 blades that I get sharpened and I got tired of spending $600 to do so... I sharpened all 30 blades for $60.00... 10% cost of sending them out and I can not tell a difference, they cut like butter... Thank for your DIY video...