Ford Focus P2008 Fault Code MiracleMAX
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- Опубликовано: 25 май 2019
- This videos fault code is a fairly common one, especially with the Ford Focus, although it does apply across a range of vehicles. One lesson to be learned in this case is to always reproduce the conditions of the fault, otherwise what you and the customer experience might be two different things.
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Miracle max you are a miracle. Very professional step by step diagnosis how it should be done. Congratulations.
Thanks for you dedication and professionalism. Wish every car mechanic was like you.
Please Douglas, I'm blushing!
But in all seriousness, I think all technicians should follow a logical diagnostic path and not load up the parts cannon. It's not professional and fair on the customer. I am fortunate enough to learn from others far smarter than myself and am happy to stand on the shoulders of giants :)
Thanks very much for your kind comments.
MiracleMAX
Mate wanted to say a massive thanks, two local workshops, were not interested in even having a go at fixing this, i followed your video, put in new part, car is perfect, thank you so much rgds Blair
Glad to hear Blair.
I feel that I have accomplished what I set out to do with this channel when what I can share helps others.
MiracleMAX
This is the exact same problem my focus has. My mechanic erased the codes, diagnosed it as the two solenoids and told me to monitor before he would change it out. Check engine light is back on again and i'm off to replace the solenoids.
Thanks so much for the confirmation MiracleMAX. Excellent diagnosis.
Hey jay siva,
That's great news, I'm so glad the video was helpful. 😊
Hey, just wanted to let you know that your video helped me fix at least one of the problems our car has. We have a 2005 Focus C-Max, it had all the same symptoms, P2008 fault code that triggered the engine light, and decreased engine performance with warm engine. After watching your video, I grabbed an ohmmeter and measured the electrical resistances of both solenoids, and they both read OL, and that was with the engine cold! I replaced the solenoids and voila, problem gone. Thank you!
Hey Söö Sitta,
I'm so glad that the video was able to help.
Just with a little research and a trusty multimeter, you were able to correctly diagnose and repair your vehicle - Congratulations! :)
MiracleMAX
Söö Sitta What were your car\s symptoms? RPM fluctuation and vibration at decelaration is one of them?
Just bought a 2008 2.0l petrol focus. Literally 5 miles from home after an 80ish mile motorway journey home. P2008. Will be following therse tips to assist with diagnosis.
I hope the video helps.
Let us know how you go with the diagnosis 😉
Cheers mate!
Misses car popped up this code, thought those solenoids where for the runner, and I’m glad I watched your video! Whacked on the meter and boom the rear solenoid starts dancing and goes open under heat, front guys fine so I’m hoping thats our issue.
Thanks again!
Hey Dee-Jaie, glad the video helped. It seems like a common fault, probably because they stick them on a huge heat sink! I hope your repairs go well for you. Let us know how you go.
You are absolutely the best tech. Thank you.
Thanks for your kind words. 😉 Feel free to subscribe to get more quality content
I watched this video too late. I just paid $592 AUD to have this exact problem fixed. I could've bought the tools needed on eBay for about $100 & the part itself on eBay for $93 & with the aid of this video could've done it myself. Anyway, I'm subscribing in case I ever need your help again. Thanks for great content & friendly delivery style.
OH NO! Sorry chookstar0260
.
I do hope that one of the videos will help you in the future. After all, that's why they are there.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for subscribing. 😊
Cheers
MiracleMAX
Excelente video. Tengo en el taller un Focus con el mismo problema y ya tengo todos los procedimientos para controlar. Saludos desde Argentina!
Hey Javi,
I'm glad the video has been helpful. I hope it helps you toward a successful repair :)
MiracleMAX
Hi I have the same issue in my 2010 ford focus car, this is really helping me out find out the problem to fix it same code and really appreciated
Hey jayathilake kapugamage,
I hope that the video is useful. Let me know if it fixes the fault. It seems to be a common problem.
Cheers
MiracleMAX
Great video, it fixed it for me. John from the United Kingdom.
Hey John,
That's great news! This is a common fault. I'm glad that the video helped 😊
MiracleMAX
Absolutely brilliant
Thanks Luarne Cram,
I appreciate you comments. Keep in mind there are heaps of other helpful videos on the channel. 😉
MiracleMAX
Well done
Thanks 😁👍
Hi Mate from Capetown I've got a 2006 ex UK Focus. Came up with this code reset it and came back after 12 miles. So test coils tomorrow if open circuit. Try to get from Ford here. Thanks for the info video.
Thanks tested out after removal went into kohms after heat applied. Replacement cost Rand 1500 gave me discount. Saved a agent's service labour charges. It all helps when your retired. Thanks again
That's great news Robert! I'm glad the video helped.
MiracleMAX
thanks MM great info qual vid
Thanks very much, glad it was helpful 😉
07 Mk2 with p2008 error code and loss of power once the engine is warm. Followed your video and think the solenoid is at fault. Need to run the engine for a while to reproduce the fault (works ok on the drive) but I think it's similar to yours - open circuit when hot. If this is it, you've saved me a trip to the garage!
Hey Jipper07,
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the video & found it helpful. Don't forget to subscribe!
Let us know if it is faulty solenoids. I'm sure others would be interested in your repair.
@@MiracleMAX Seems to have been those pesky solenoids. Quick drive today that would normally have had the EML lit up and the code present, and all seems ok. Will have to test it out on a longer run, but I think we might have cracked it. Thanks again for a really thorough, easy to follow video!
@@jipper07 Glad to hear I could help.
Thanks for sharing your repair 😊
Hi MM. Very nice diagnosis and bench comparison. Well done. Ps, do you know if that subaru intake cleaner can be used on diesels with egr valve?
I have used a different cleaner on another vehicle (ruclips.net/video/nlErGRhRFMA/видео.html) at 24.56. I found it useful and helped clean out the carbon. However, the only way to clean out baked on carbon is to remove parts and clean them in an ultrasonic cleaner.
MiracleMAX
Thx MM. I will give it a try. (I want to use it for maintenance not heavy build up repair)
@@nigelwebber1472 So try the Wynns product. That is designed for diesel - or so the can says :)
Will do. Look forward to your next video.
I have the same issue. The resistance test showed 0.32 and 0.35 on my meter and a beeping noise for a connection, however, it was 30 degrees Celsius when i had the issue the other day, so the increased heat properly causing the issue....I ordered a part from amazon, but the damn thing turned up today broken, so waiting for another one tomorrow....
These solenoids need to be heated to create the fault. Sorry you had problems with the parts. Let us know the results of the repair.
Hi thanks for help! Had same fault code om my 06 Focus. 1.8 and the solenoid failed. The one solenoid shoed no ohms, and the other showed 45,5 ohms. When heating the other solenoid it shoot up to 165 ohms. Have ordered new one now. Will I notice better performance of the engine with new solenoids? Thanks
Hey borreolsen
,
Glad to hear the video helped! It sounds like the solenoids were definitely had it. Depending on what the actuators were doing with the faulty solenoids, but the fault codes should disappear, you might experience easier starting (the swirl flaps open when starting to allow better breathing), you might feel a little better torque and experience improved fuel economy. These are all just suggestions and by no means a guarantee. Each vehicle is different and as I said, it depends on what position the actuators are in when not moving.
I hope your repair goes well & let me know your results :)
Hvala
You are welcome! 😉👍nema na čemu
I will also add that Ford TIS calls the forward solenoid as 'Inlet air control valve solenoid (Y218)' and the aft one as 'Swirl control solenoid valve (Y57)'. Maybe this info is of help to someone.
Thanks Söö Sitta,
Helpful information. I didn't realise that until I had completed the video.
Thanks for sharing :)
MiracleMAX
Ooooh - very interesting. I have the error stating that the inlet is open and it's the forward solenoid that's reading high / open when warm. Once I get my hands on a new one, hopefully that'll fix it!
Cold, mine were 35 and 55 ohm. Warm and the 35 became 45 and the 55 became 35000..... Today I'm off to a scrapyard and hoping to find one!
Can I suggest new if possible? These are a common fault & you might find second hand will bring you grief in the near future.
Thanks for sharing your comment.
MiracleMAX
Brill video
Thanks for your comment jennifer judge
What are the parts called you brought from ebay
If you do a search using 'ford focus intake runner control solenoids', you should be able to find some that will suit your vehicle.
Are you in Sydney
Sorry, no. But happy to help via comments if I can. :)
Hi Max I have the same issue
My actuator doesn’t move when I put it in the run position and I’m also not getting any resistance from the solenoids.. any idea what that might be?
Firstly, how did you check the resistance at the solenoids?
MiracleMAX multi meter on the solenoid
@@jamietasevski9718 As you can see on the video, they should have 30 odd Ohms, so if you have no resistance, they must be open circuit and will need replacement.
MiracleMAX is that why you think the actuator isn’t opening... and the car is also
Idling a little rough
@@jamietasevski9718 Hey Jamie, the engine may idle rough due to the fact that the 'swirl flaps' may be rattling backwards and forwards. Just like shown in the video, they do fall off the shaft as well. It's important to check for that before you go ahead and replace the solenoids. Of course, the idle issue may be unrelated, but start with the basics first 😉
What's it mean if one of the solenoids is fluctuating around 100-200ohms and the other is showing no reading at all? This is around 2 hours after driving, so a little heat still in the engine bay.
Edit: the solenoid with a reading dropped to around 40ohms a little later. Seems both may be faulty in different ways.
Hey S Dekker,
It might be worth double checking your testing. The solenoids should be around 30-40 Ohms. If it has no reading at all, that shows an open circuit. If the other solenoid truly does vary that much, that would indicate a possible open circuit & then as it heats the internal wiring heats up, closing the gap & returns the resistance to a normal reading.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks for the quick response. It seems the one that works does work properly when it's not hot, just like in the video. Time for new solenoids I think.
Cheers!
@@samdekker90 That sounds like a good diagnosis
Hi! I recently replaced these solenoids on my '07 focus 2.0 Duratec after getting a constant P2008 error.
I measured the resistance on the old ones and they both shot to OL when heated up.
After replacing the solenoids it ran fine for a couple of drives but now it’s showing the P2008 fault again. I measured the resistance on the new ones and the back one shoots to OL very fast after heating it up, the front one stays at ~34Ohms.
Do you maybe have any ideas as to why the back one goes kaput so quickly? Could it be a wiring short somewhere?
Thanks!
Hey Caspar,
Were the solenoids brand new, genuine parts?
@@MiracleMAX They were brand new, yes! I don't think they were OEM parts though. Think that might be it?
I don't dare ask what the Ford dealers charge for one of these since they don't have the prices listed online. 🙈
@@caspar4121 I'm afraid that new does not mean quality. Can you claim warranty? If they have failed immediately, no doubt they were faulty.
Hi I have the same fault p2008 on my Mondeo, Ford has run a test for £126 it's the Engine Air Shut Off Control valve £80 each cost of parts fitted £270, the ones sold cheap are all from china, get the original ones made for your car.
@@cliveosborne8195 Hey Clive Osborne,
Are you referring to the actuators? That is unusual, it is usually the solenoids......
It's good news that you are using genuine parts in this case.
I hope the repair goes well.
MiracleMAX
Can the solenoid issue cause the car not to start?
Hey Leosgonewild, I don't believe that these solenoids would cause that. The flaps are meant to be open during starting, but it still should start. Can you see the actuator moving?
Do you have a starting issue or a cranking problem?
@@MiracleMAX my car cranks but doesn’t start. Only fault code is p2008.
It starts with starter gas sprayed into the throttle body.
@@beobyleo Can you see the flaps move with the actuator during ignition on cycle? ruclips.net/video/oPt8zJNq_Nc/видео.html
hi , i have the same issue in my 2008 forc cmax 1.8 petrol , i erase code and didn`t come up again .looks normal again . is safe to drive it ? .thank you for video
Hey Adrian Serban,
The P2008 code can be tripped by several different issues. Here is an example of what you might find.
www.obd-codes.com/p2008
If you have a similar fault to the one in the video, it will be heat affected. So as I showed, if you heat the solenoids, it will go out of range. Then the light will come back on. Just because the light is not currently on, it doesn't mean that it won't come back on. You just haven't created the driving conditions that will bring the light on. No doubt the fault will get worse & the light will stay on.
It will be safe to drive for a short time, but should be sorted out as soon as you can.
MiracleMAX
Hi . Still me , another yt account, thank you for your response. Is booked to the garage 4th January because is closed in this festive time .just need to drive 7 days to work and back home 14 miles a day .hopefully will work ,light didn't back .i appreciate u reply , Happy Christmas
@@-ZenBreeze- I hope it continues to work OK for you. I'd be interested to find out what the fault is when it is fixed
@MiracleMax , yes definitely, at least this i can share back , because your work is amazing. Is booked for 4th January, i will let you know what's happened
Hi Max , well so i drive around with the fault around 2 weeks , 300 miles , no problem , my garage said they found no issues , i done full service and mot on 4th , the engine light never comeback after full service and mot
Where can i find this part for cheap?
Hey Jason,
Are you referring to the solenoid pack? Honestly, these do suffer from a regular fault. I personally wouldn't risk a cheaper version or a second-hand unit.
There are loads of them on offer on Ebay, Amazon & Aliexpress - not that I am suggesting that option. Just keep in mind that if you do go down this path you would want to make sure that it is compatible with your engine.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX its a 2006 ford focus duratec he 2.0l. Ive been having the exact same problems as youve described in the video, i got a code p2008.. the problems been coming and going for about 6 months now but recently it started giving me an 'engine system fault' warning and its losing power and really hard to accelerate.... if i turn the engine off and back on it fixes itself and then comes back in a few days.. tilford have offered to diagnose and repair it for around $750 aud... personally id rather buy the part on ebay and replace it myself! The ford parts dealer sell them for $150, ebay from $30-100... they all look exactly the same to me
@@jasonwright-brown6240 Have you done the testing like I've shown in the video?
@@MiracleMAX no mate im not much of a mechanic
@@jasonwright-brown6240 Sorry, I can't predict what could be wrong with your vehicle. The video is a guide for diagnosis.
It is possible that it could be the fault as it is a known fault for that model, but the decision is yours. I would be interested in what you find and decide to do. Keep us informed! 😊