Thank you again for this video. I'm not a mechanic by trade and I was able to replace the clutch and slave cylinder by following this video. I live on the east coast and did the job outside by myself. Anyone trying this by themselves please note that it wasn't easy by any stretch of the imagination. When I finally completed the job I couldn't move the car because the back brakes were locked due to the cold. A little hot water and a fertilizer sprayer melted the ice. Thx again.
I have been watching video clips on removal and installation of gearboxes and clutch components on RUclips for years now, and I make bold to say that this clip of yours stands out, more importantly is the use of the gearbox/transmission jack to remove and replace the gearbox, not many videos have shown us how to use this important tool. Don’t forget that gearboxes can be quite heavy and it is not supposed to be installed or removed with sheer human strength. In most videos, people have used brute force/:power to do this job. Thank you so much for this and I hope a lot of people will appreciate it and subscribe more to the channel.
Just bought a 2012 ses for $1,000 with a leaky slave cylinder. Bought one off amazon for $25 and im gonna use this video as a guide so I can save some money
Fantastic video from start to finish, explicit in every step,every bolt ,size ,clip remembering how to assemble each part. Ideal for the apprentice learning his trade,or the budding mechanic trapped inside of me. Well done you.
Excellent video. For anyone else about to try this, I found that I did not have to remove either of the axel nuts or tie rod ends. Instead, I just unbolted the struts from the hubs. Plenty of room to wiggle them out.
Yes but it's very restrictive having both the drive shafts( axels to US viewers. I'm UK) still in place while trying to remove and replace the gearbox. I'm doing my clutch at the moment and there ain't a lot of room under there. Perhaps the US bodies are slightly bigger, I don't know but on this video there seems to be far more room to work than I have.
@ benjaminjoyce4938, Re reading your post, are you saying you did not remove the drive shafts ( axels) from the car? Only pulling the shafts out from the differential housing and leaving in place?
Amazing how to video! Very easy to follow. Thank you for spending the time making this for everyone. There are some "wood" adapters you can find on RUclips if you don't have a transmission jack. Another person is probably one of the better strategies when reinstalling.
This video is so helpful. I’m working on swapping my 2012 fiesta to the manual 5-speed and been looking for ages in an in-depth removal of the transmission.
The extent of my experience was an oil change... I've now removed and reinstalled my transmission. it wasn't flawless as it was a different year 2017 but this gave me a general idea and I was able to figure out the rest. I had my slave cylinder go out and was able to diagnose it after I bought the clutch and master cylinder... just in case. Thank you for teaching me.
Thanks I really appreciate it. That’s why I do these videos from start to finish that way anybody with some basic hand tools can save a lot of money doing it themselves.
Thank you for this absolutely amazing video! I would like to point how this correlates with my theme for this car: Corporate Ford Engineers are a**holes. They take heart from Aldous Huxley's line from the fictitious Ford: History is Bunk. Why research and use a reliable solution when you can patent something you dreamed up in the shower and make loads of cash replacing it? If the slave cylinder on my Toyota Echo, Camry, or Corolla leaks: I buy a thirty dollar part, and maybe dip into my PB Blaster and anti-seize. If I don't want to work in a tight space, I take off the upper radiator bracket and slide out the fan assembly. Takes 10 minutes. I remove the hydraulic connection from the old slave. I remove the two bolts. I Install the new slave. I bleed at the slave cylinder. Finito. Total labor including fan assembly is under an hour, even for a slowpoke like me. Ford Fiesta: The leak puts DOT-3 INSIDE the bell-housing. WHY PUT IT THERE?!?! The cheap plastic tubing begs to be damaged if the engine overheats.The slave cylinder sprays DOT-3 all over the clutch when it inevitably leaks. Slave cylinders have been "wear items" for a century. On the OUTSIDE of the bell housing. Way to maximize the damage. Because the part is unique, a replacement kit starts around 200 bucks. Labor to replace the slave now includes transmission removal and clutch replacement. What is the book time? 5 hours? 10 hours? My apologies to hobbyists and fans, especially Fiesta. I can sort of understand the allure of a car that stole a bunch of ideas from a bad 70's camera to renew some patents. It's all bizarre, and challenging like a jigsaw puzzle with a white face. Some of the ideas look nifty. But from a practical point of view: The drive for patents led to repudiation of designs proven over a century now. If you have an early 70's MGB, this fits right in to your collection. If you want a daily driver... Examples: My engine never ran right. Dealer answer: Use only Chevron Techron gas, and stop complaining. You bought our cheapest car. You deserve to be punished. Manual Windows Handles. Clips are disposable. Handles should not be. ABS Controller Failure Mode: The brakes FAIL. Yes. FAIL. You need an expensive scan tool to even begin to diagnose the U3000:xx:xx that basically says, "Something is wrong with the control logic or wiring harness. You figure it out." Lower ball joint connection looks pretty. It rusts. No problem, there's an SST to remove it. Did I mention $$Ts? 3 grand for a radio. A radio. Or buy it without that trim option and get... a Bad radio. Replace that with a Decent radio for 120.00. Lots of pretty machine aluminum and plastic. Plastic breaks. Machined aluminum, especially poorly designed parts, means lots of replacement $$$$. Interior finish: Bad latches, bad anything that moves. The low-end cars I drove in the 70s did just as well. But, I could apply steel wire and Bondo and get another 40,000 miles. This stuff is designed to completely self destruct. No user-serviceable components. More punishment for buying the base model. On the theme of cheap plastic, did I mention that plastic coolant system thermostat plenum? Brilliant. Melt down your engine in minutes. Oh, won't the ten buck pressure cap save it? Now where IS that pressure cap? Continuous lobbying to make as many parts as possible fly-by-wire, and then encrypt the control logic. No replacement by owners. And look how well that ABS controller worked out... And of course, the slave cylinder... What other gifts have your Corporate Ford Engineers lavished upon you? Yeah Ford, I'm bending over to take the reaming. But guess what. This is the last Ford I will ever buy. I will drive mid 2000 Japanese cars until they are banned or break. Mine will break in 2040. Then I'll start buying mid-2020 Japanese cars. I might buy another Chevy Astro van from the previous century. it responds well to steel wire and Bondo. And I will NEVER buy a fly-by-wire car with software licensed parts or a lockdown to dealer servicing.
Awesome video! Anyone looking to get a clutch kit. Don't get the one from "A Premium" because the slave cylinder line will not fit into the aftermarket slave cylinder. I didn't find this out until I was buttoning up the job. Then I had to do it all over again. No help from A Premium and from the reviews, I'm one of many who had the same problem
Sir, thank you very much for this amazing video. it's all well made, and well explained. I'm changing my clutch this Saturday, and this is my complete guide on how to do it. Again, thank you very much.
Thank you so much for pitting this thorough video up on how to do a clutch change. Sometimes is hard to find videos this detailed on the fiesta. Thanks again, I subscribed already and I will peruse your videos for sure!!! Have a great week, my friend :)
Thank you very much for the video, very well made, explained no doubt at all , god bless you for share this valuable information with all of us. Thank you
Thanks for such an awesome, well explained & very detailed video, it was extremely easy to follow and enabled me to complete my very first clutch change with complete success. So thanks again and keep the videos coming.
It’s most likely an issue with the dual clutch system common issue on these cars with the automatic. The clutches get caked with clutch dust or the seal starts leaking getting fluid all over the clutch causing it to shudder and slip. I did a video on how to replace it on a ford focus which uses the same transmission ruclips.net/video/H1waN-mTrrc/видео.htmlsi=bVWTumMxEPkkW9Wi
Awesome job on this video I wish you had a video on removing 2012 2017 Ford Focus transmission rebuild I’ve got mine to do I feel you don’t miss a beat on video all steps start to finish.. unlike 90 percent of all other videos on RUclips.. your the best macanic on RUclips just for that aspect 👍👍👍 . I’m dreading doing my 2012 Ford Focus transmission fix .. 👍👌👏
Thanks man I appreciate the postive feedback. You actually maybe in luck I have a 2012 Ford Focus as well and actually have to drop the transmission and replace the dual clutch on it and see if I need to update the input shaft seals. It’s doing the common focus shuddering. I just haven’t had the time to do it yet and still need to order parts. Hopefully I can have it out here in a few weeks. I’m assuming yours is the automatic since your having issues with it?
Even though I just dropped my hatch fiesta at the shop, I still wanted to know how it was done. Great video, I'm surprised the mechanic said $500 this looks like a lot of work, I'm only doing mine because I lost my clutch pedal completely and won't engage, saw brake fluid leak out from underneath.
Thank you for the video. From your experience after how many km will the clutch need a replacement. I have an issue with the clutch at 80k km. If the mecanic removes the gearbox to check the problem is it a good idea to replace also the clutch plate?
It just kind of depends on how the car was driven. When it needs replaced I’ve seen clutches needing replaced at 80k and ones that have lasted 180k. But yes if they are dropping the transmission/gearbox might as well replace the clutch.
Hello master, thank you. My Fiesta has a 5-speed manual transmission. When I take my foot off the clutch while the gear is in neutral, I hear a clicking sound similar to friction. This is due to the reason. The sound comes from the side where the clutch is located.
Nice step by step video. Does this transmission box have any magnets anywhere on the case / drain plug to attract iron particles/ dirt from the gears due to normal running? ( To increase life of the gear train or life of transmission Oil costing 90$ )
Thank you very much! I would like to point something out though: when putting the passenger side CV axle back, the bracket goes on top while the bearing cap goes below it.
The Video is 1:43 minutes, in real time how long did it take? mine is leaking and I'd like to know in real hours so I can compare shop rates to DIY? I can do it myself, but don't want to, if it won't break the bank for my local shop to do it!
so, you can use MityVac as a vacuum pump and as a pump? did you push fluid into the salve cylinder using the MityVac? or did you suck brake fluid from the reservoir through the slave cylinder aplying vacuum with the mityvac? i'm confused here, please let me know how it is. Thanks!
hi man o have a ford fiesta 1.3 1997 endura e engine I just bought a new clutch and slave cylinder on April 27 and instal it think the machinic didn't bleed it properly last week on the 5 of may month i stacked on the road couldn't get any gears the paddle was all the way down to the floor there was break fluid in then I show by the gearbox by the nipples side there was break fluid leaking and only if the vehicle is of there is gears and when u start it there is no gears does that mean the slave cylinder is gone again
Great job an video I’m a mechanic just retired and my wife has a 2016 fiesta , great car but getting gear selection problems iv done the drill out n grease up of change cable end just wondering did you have problems getting into gear and then it corrected its self and was this the slave , as I can’t see any loss in brake res fluid at all . Thanks for the video 👍
I can't seem to separate the axle from the wheel hub from either side of the car. I also couldn't get the lower ball joint separated so I am going the strut-caliper removal route. I've spent about 4 hours trying to remove the axle from the wheel hub and it has me worried. I just can't get the axles to move. I've hit the axle with a rubber mallet. I've used a block of wood and a 'regular' hammer. After hours of pounding on it(it's not damaged) I had to give up. I have an air hammer and I am going to try that next. I need to go to the store and buy a pointed chisel since I don't have one. Is there any other way I can get the transmission out without separating from the wheel hub? Do I need to take out both axles?
In the process of following your video the line that runs to the slave cylinder doesn't want to seat all the way in. I've tried pushing the green part with a screw driver and then sliding the clip down and I can still pull the line off what am I missing?
It should just click in. Did you try pushing the spring clip all the way down in the groove and then pushing the line in and it should just snap right in since it’s sprung by pressure.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thank you for the quick response. I am going to have to replace it to pass inspection unfortunately. I don't see how to replace it but I'm going to have to figure it out. Thank you for the great video.
Thanks for posting. Went out to my 2011 hatch and discovered giant puddle of brake fluid and no pedal resistance with no master cylinder leaks. Just wanted to see how much hell I'm going to put my poor mechanic through this week. I figure 150k miles is pretty good for a clutch replacement while he's at it.
I have just finished fitting my new clutch following your video, and it was a great help. However I have a problem, when I started the engine with the car still in the air the wheels started turning, I can stop them by hand though. Also I have a slight rattle sound from the gearbox, this disappears when I press the clutch pedal down.
The wheels spinning with it in the air and in neutral is completely normal the input shaft is still spinning even with it it neutral so the wheels will spin but not enough to move the car. As far the rattle in the gearbox does it do it with the wheels on the ground?
@@paulwharton1484 I’m assuming you replaced the gear oil and put the correct amount in? Also may need to adjust the shift cable and see if that helps to get it into reverse better.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I did replace the oil and measured it, I forgot to mention that I had difficulty bleeding the system, I had to use the 2 man method because I didn't have a tool like you had, It took us ages just to get a decent peddle.
My Slave cylinder just went out and I'm thinking of replacing the clutch "while I'm in there". Only 36k miles, so I doubt it needs it, but I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and do it? Also, how is the Luk kit holding up?
If your going to be in there might as well. I was in the same boat as you slave cylinder was bad but mine was leaking which got all over the clutch. No issues with the luk clutch that’s what the oem one was.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Yeah, as common as it is for these cars' slave cylinder to go out, I'm kinda surprised there wasn't a recall.. or maybe I just wasn't aware? I just recently bought mine used, so I wasn't familiar with the problem until the purchase was made. But I'm just ranting at this point lol thank you for the reply and thanks for the detailed/informative tutorial!
Slave cylinder was leaking brake fluid so I figured might as well do the clutch since I had to pull the transmission to replace the slave cylinder.
8 месяцев назад
I'm confused with this "reverse bleeding procedure". When we bleed the clutch or brakes, we pump brake fluid to make sure there's no air in the system. If you're doing it alone, I understand doing it that way, but is there a reason this can't be done the "2-person" way, as in, p1 depresses clutch pedal, p2 opens bleeder, closes, p1 lets go, depresses again, so on and so forth?
Great video. I'm a bit confused on the reverse bleeding portion. Wouldn't pumping the mighty mightyvac just put the clutch slave in a vacuum? How does it push the fluid from the reservoir in? Thanks I have a harbor freight bleeder basically a knockoff of the one you used.
Nice guide, but just to note that the bolt you removed isn't a drain plug. It's a detent for the shifters inside (thats why there's a ball bearing on the end). There is no drain plug on the IB5 gearbox... Stupid design if you ask me.
Wow that was a very informative video. Thank you for all your knowledge. How expensive should it cost to put a new slave, new clutch kit no resurfacing. It look labor intensive??
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE the clutch just doesn’t feel like it’s building pressure after all bleeding procedures. I’m thinking there may also be a failing master cylinder at this point
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thanks for a quick reply! Your video was a super helpful reference as I did this clutch job. Great work, this is the type of content I aim to make.
Hello, awesome video! Was wondering how long did it take you to do all this work? The video is about 1.5 hours but there are a lot of speed ups … thanks
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE so I want to ask you a question. So I have fiesta 2013, and it drives great, no issue with shifting or anything. The only thing is , when I drive about 20-40 mile an hour there is a grinding noise almost like a front wheel rubbing on something … that happened after I got the 120,000 mile service. When I took it in to Ford, they drove it a bit and told me it’s a clutch and it needs to be replaced. Gave me a price tag of $3000. When I asked them how they tested it, they said , we drove the car and listened… No codes no nothing . Will be taking it to another Ford place this Friday. Question is about that noise, is it possible it’s a clutch or maybe they just want me to get a new car and get the fiesta off the road. Thanks you
Hello. Really appreciate the video literally saved me hundreds. My brake fluid got old and dirty and was losing my clutch.(clutch was going almost straight to the floor and needed to be pumped a few times to get it to engage). so I just flushed my brake fluid on my fiesta. Thru the brake lines and the slave cylinder. And now the clutch engages really high now. Any ideas on how to adjust / Fix it?
Same issue, im just doing the rest of the work. Replacing clutch and slave. Already replace master and bled the system. The issue was resolved after bleeding for 1 day but continues to come back. Oddly I’m it losing brake fluid though.
Did you double check all your wires especially that ground wire under the battery. When you say not turning do you mean like not electrical or it won’t start and stay running?
@@cowboyfrank yeah definitely go back and check that ground wire under the battery box that connects to the transmission it’s in the video at 1:31:21 because if that’s not getting a good ground the car will just click and not start.
When you replace the brake fluid, is the a step needed to bleed the slave cylinder or do you just youse the steps you took when pumping the clutch in reverse?
Is the fly wheel supposed to rotate freely once the transmission side is off? Or it it a possible sign of something else that is wrong with my car. It's currently sitting in my garage waiting for the clutch kit to arrive, and would like to know of i need to check anything else while I'm under the car.
There should be a little resistance but yes it should be able move because with the transmission out it’s pretty much in neutral because there’s no gears being able to hold it in place that is why you need to use a tool to hold the flywheel when tightening the flywheel bolts.
I just installed a clutch, presureplate, and RS slave cylinder into my Focus ST - and now I leak break fluid when i press clutch - clutch is kissing the floor. Im pissed if I have to drop the tranny again. It looks like its leaking from bell housing, but i cant confirm.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I used a bleeder vacuum. Attached to bleeder screw on top of slave cylinder - pressed clutch peddle with a stick to the floor - opened the bleeder - until some air come up, closed it, released the clutch while car was off. Repeated this multiple times. Still air in system. Still clutch stuck to the floor.
@@dannyj7618 you may need to try and bleed it like I did in the video it’s almost like a reverse bleed instead of pulling fluid it’s actually fixing fluid in the system. Hopefully it’s not leaking from the slave cylinder because of to much pressure.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thats what i was worried about - I put max psi on the vacuum and fear I damaged a seal. Appreciate the reply. You're totally right, I misread the workshop manual. I had to pump the brake fluid INTO the bleeder, than top it off at brake reservoir.
@@dannyj7618 maybe try bleeding it again this way and see if it works. If not I hate to say it but you may need to drop it again and replace the slave cylinder.
Personally I wouldn’t use LUK because of reliability I always depend on Borg & beck only on the basis that the reliability factor is better and lasts longer 👍
When I googled the numbers on the side of the box that contained my clutch, luk model in luk printed box etc, it came back with a Borg and beck clutch. One number on the box came back with the luk kit that was in the box and the other number the Borg and beck. Very strange.
I was doing a new clutch on my MK4 Fiesta. :D Everything was just fine, I changed whole clutch, did the bleeding and etc...After that I wanted to try the clutch If is working properly. I started the engine with clutch enganged, shifter was on neutral. I released the clutch and wheels started to turn forward. :D I though: "Its ok, I will just shut it down and move a little bit with shift rod going to transmission". And when I was under the car, suddenly I cannot move with that shift rod going through seal to the transmission. It is feeling like jammed or stuck on some gear (1,3 or 5 I think).Cannot change gears even with enganged clutch or released clutch with engine on or off. :(
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Oh yes! I did found the problem! :D On the bottom side nearly next to the drain nut of transmission is another nut. It is hard to explain why is there or what is it, because I do not really know so far. :D Its just a nut with a "nose" and when I unscrewed that, inside is a moving roller in oil. Out of curiosity I tried the shift rod and it was moving! :D So I screw that strange nut with a nose back in, filled up with transmission fluid and car is working! :D Thanks for the tutorial man, it helped a lot, even your car is from 2011, basically not much really change. Only in my car, there isnt so much electronic. :D
Does anyone know where I can find the bolt lengths for the bolts that hold the transmission in? Like an idiot I didn't mark them when I removed them and I am trying to put the transmission back in. I also do not have a transmission jack so I'm trying to figure out how to get it back up there. I saw someone use ratchet straps on a different vehicle/transmission but I don't know...
If I remember right they were all pretty close to same in size only a few were different lengths. Can you tell by my video on the lengths? I’ve actually used a 3 ton jack with a large piece of wood instead of a transmission jack or if you got a couple buddies to help to hoist it back into place.
This Man is what I call a Master Mechanic with patience to match. Great Job Sir.
Thank you again for this video. I'm not a mechanic by trade and I was able to replace the clutch and slave cylinder by following this video. I live on the east coast and did the job outside by myself. Anyone trying this by themselves please note that it wasn't easy by any stretch of the imagination. When I finally completed the job I couldn't move the car because the back brakes were locked due to the cold. A little hot water and a fertilizer sprayer melted the ice. Thx again.
I have been watching video clips on removal and installation of gearboxes and clutch components on RUclips for years now, and I make bold to say that this clip of yours stands out, more importantly is the use of the gearbox/transmission jack to remove and replace the gearbox, not many videos have shown us how to use this important tool. Don’t forget that gearboxes can be quite heavy and it is not supposed to be installed or removed with sheer human strength. In most videos, people have used brute force/:power to do this job. Thank you so much for this and I hope a lot of people will appreciate it and subscribe more to the channel.
Amazing job! To do this job, film/edit/comment so thoroughly, and include all torque specs... you are a hero
Thank you for the feedback.
Just bought a 2012 ses for $1,000 with a leaky slave cylinder. Bought one off amazon for $25 and im gonna use this video as a guide so I can save some money
Fantastic video from start to finish, explicit in every step,every bolt ,size ,clip remembering how to assemble each part.
Ideal for the apprentice learning his trade,or the budding mechanic trapped inside of me.
Well done you.
Excellent video. For anyone else about to try this, I found that I did not have to remove either of the axel nuts or tie rod ends. Instead, I just unbolted the struts from the hubs. Plenty of room to wiggle them out.
Do you a video of it because I need to replace mine
Yes but it's very restrictive having both the drive shafts( axels to US viewers. I'm UK) still in place while trying to remove and replace the gearbox. I'm doing my clutch at the moment and there ain't a lot of room under there. Perhaps the US bodies are slightly bigger, I don't know but on this video there seems to be far more room to work than I have.
@ benjaminjoyce4938, Re reading your post, are you saying you did not remove the drive shafts ( axels) from the car? Only pulling the shafts out from the differential housing and leaving in place?
Amazing how to video! Very easy to follow. Thank you for spending the time making this for everyone. There are some "wood" adapters you can find on RUclips if you don't have a transmission jack. Another person is probably one of the better strategies when reinstalling.
This video is so helpful. I’m working on swapping my 2012 fiesta to the manual 5-speed and been looking for ages in an in-depth removal of the transmission.
The extent of my experience was an oil change... I've now removed and reinstalled my transmission. it wasn't flawless as it was a different year 2017 but this gave me a general idea and I was able to figure out the rest. I had my slave cylinder go out and was able to diagnose it after I bought the clutch and master cylinder... just in case. Thank you for teaching me.
Thanks I really appreciate it. That’s why I do these videos from start to finish that way anybody with some basic hand tools can save a lot of money doing it themselves.
Thank you for this absolutely amazing video!
I would like to point how this correlates with my theme for this car: Corporate Ford Engineers are a**holes.
They take heart from Aldous Huxley's line from the fictitious Ford: History is Bunk. Why research and use a reliable solution when you can patent something you dreamed up in the shower and make loads of cash replacing it?
If the slave cylinder on my Toyota Echo, Camry, or Corolla leaks: I buy a thirty dollar part, and maybe dip into my PB Blaster and anti-seize. If I don't want to work in a tight space, I take off the upper radiator bracket and slide out the fan assembly. Takes 10 minutes. I remove the hydraulic connection from the old slave. I remove the two bolts. I Install the new slave. I bleed at the slave cylinder. Finito. Total labor including fan assembly is under an hour, even for a slowpoke like me.
Ford Fiesta: The leak puts DOT-3 INSIDE the bell-housing. WHY PUT IT THERE?!?! The cheap plastic tubing begs to be damaged if the engine overheats.The slave cylinder sprays DOT-3 all over the clutch when it inevitably leaks. Slave cylinders have been "wear items" for a century. On the OUTSIDE of the bell housing. Way to maximize the damage.
Because the part is unique, a replacement kit starts around 200 bucks. Labor to replace the slave now includes transmission removal and clutch replacement. What is the book time? 5 hours? 10 hours?
My apologies to hobbyists and fans, especially Fiesta. I can sort of understand the allure of a car that stole a bunch of ideas from a bad 70's camera to renew some patents. It's all bizarre, and challenging like a jigsaw puzzle with a white face. Some of the ideas look nifty. But from a practical point of view: The drive for patents led to repudiation of designs proven over a century now. If you have an early 70's MGB, this fits right in to your collection. If you want a daily driver...
Examples:
My engine never ran right. Dealer answer: Use only Chevron Techron gas, and stop complaining. You bought our cheapest car. You deserve to be punished.
Manual Windows Handles. Clips are disposable. Handles should not be.
ABS Controller Failure Mode: The brakes FAIL. Yes. FAIL. You need an expensive scan tool to even begin to diagnose the U3000:xx:xx that basically says, "Something is wrong with the control logic or wiring harness. You figure it out."
Lower ball joint connection looks pretty. It rusts. No problem, there's an SST to remove it. Did I mention $$Ts?
3 grand for a radio. A radio. Or buy it without that trim option and get... a Bad radio. Replace that with a Decent radio for 120.00.
Lots of pretty machine aluminum and plastic. Plastic breaks. Machined aluminum, especially poorly designed parts, means lots of replacement $$$$.
Interior finish: Bad latches, bad anything that moves. The low-end cars I drove in the 70s did just as well. But, I could apply steel wire and Bondo and get another 40,000 miles. This stuff is designed to completely self destruct. No user-serviceable components. More punishment for buying the base model.
On the theme of cheap plastic, did I mention that plastic coolant system thermostat plenum? Brilliant. Melt down your engine in minutes. Oh, won't the ten buck pressure cap save it? Now where IS that pressure cap?
Continuous lobbying to make as many parts as possible fly-by-wire, and then encrypt the control logic. No replacement by owners. And look how well that ABS controller worked out...
And of course, the slave cylinder...
What other gifts have your Corporate Ford Engineers lavished upon you?
Yeah Ford, I'm bending over to take the reaming. But guess what. This is the last Ford I will ever buy. I will drive mid 2000 Japanese cars until they are banned or break. Mine will break in 2040. Then I'll start buying mid-2020 Japanese cars. I might buy another Chevy Astro van from the previous century. it responds well to steel wire and Bondo. And I will NEVER buy a fly-by-wire car with software licensed parts or a lockdown to dealer servicing.
Well said brother, I totally agree with you.
Awesome video! Anyone looking to get a clutch kit. Don't get the one from "A Premium" because the slave cylinder line will not fit into the aftermarket slave cylinder. I didn't find this out until I was buttoning up the job. Then I had to do it all over again. No help from A Premium and from the reviews, I'm one of many who had the same problem
I’ve heard the same thing about A Premium
It can't be stressed enough to use multiple Jack stands and wheel chocks . I did lose a friend working under his car and it still haunts me today.
Sir, thank you very much for this amazing video. it's all well made, and well explained. I'm changing my clutch this Saturday, and this is my complete guide on how to do it. Again, thank you very much.
Thank you so much for pitting this thorough video up on how to do a clutch change. Sometimes is hard to find videos this detailed on the fiesta. Thanks again, I subscribed already and I will peruse your videos for sure!!!
Have a great week, my friend :)
Thanks for this great video, we just did the clutch repayment and it went smoothly. Appreciate the effort you put in to make this so clear.
Your welcome glad to hear it helped you out.
Thanks very much. I have '2017' fiesta, I appreciate All the dismantling and reassembly and torque specs you provided. Great video! Thanks again
même si je ne parle pas la langue on comprend le déroulement des travaux se qui rend agréable a regarde jolie tuto merci
Thank you very much for the video, very well made, explained no doubt at all , god bless you for share this valuable information with all of us. Thank you
Thanks for such an awesome, well explained & very detailed video, it was extremely easy to follow and enabled me to complete my very first clutch change with complete success. So thanks again and keep the videos coming.
My 2011 ford fiesta se is slipping is it because transmission or the clutch
Is it an automatic or 5 speed manual?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE automatic
It’s most likely an issue with the dual clutch system common issue on these cars with the automatic. The clutches get caked with clutch dust or the seal starts leaking getting fluid all over the clutch causing it to shudder and slip. I did a video on how to replace it on a ford focus which uses the same transmission ruclips.net/video/H1waN-mTrrc/видео.htmlsi=bVWTumMxEPkkW9Wi
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE so clutch is the problem I have?
Awesome job on this video I wish you had a video on removing 2012 2017 Ford Focus transmission rebuild I’ve got mine to do I feel you don’t miss a beat on video all steps start to finish.. unlike 90 percent of all other videos on RUclips.. your the best macanic on RUclips just for that aspect 👍👍👍 . I’m dreading doing my 2012 Ford Focus transmission fix .. 👍👌👏
Thanks man I appreciate the postive feedback. You actually maybe in luck I have a 2012 Ford Focus as well and actually have to drop the transmission and replace the dual clutch on it and see if I need to update the input shaft seals. It’s doing the common focus shuddering. I just haven’t had the time to do it yet and still need to order parts. Hopefully I can have it out here in a few weeks. I’m assuming yours is the automatic since your having issues with it?
Even though I just dropped my hatch fiesta at the shop, I still wanted to know how it was done. Great video, I'm surprised the mechanic said $500 this looks like a lot of work, I'm only doing mine because I lost my clutch pedal completely and won't engage, saw brake fluid leak out from underneath.
Yeah sounds like your clutch master cylinder failed or the slave cylinder. $500 is a pretty good price for a whole clutch replacment.
would u recommend LUK as a brand for clutch kits? Ive heard bad things about recent batches in the past 2 years? might just be UK thing?
I’ve used plenty of LuK clutch kits and never had any issues
Thank you for the video. From your experience after how many km will the clutch need a replacement. I have an issue with the clutch at 80k km. If the mecanic removes the gearbox to check the problem is it a good idea to replace also the clutch plate?
It just kind of depends on how the car was driven. When it needs replaced I’ve seen clutches needing replaced at 80k and ones that have lasted 180k. But yes if they are dropping the transmission/gearbox might as well replace the clutch.
Thank you for the information!
Hello master, thank you. My Fiesta has a 5-speed manual transmission. When I take my foot off the clutch while the gear is in neutral, I hear a clicking sound similar to friction. This is due to the reason. The sound comes from the side where the clutch is located.
You’re awesome for posting such a detailed video of this!
Nice step by step video.
Does this transmission box have any magnets anywhere on the case / drain plug to attract iron particles/ dirt from the gears due to normal running? ( To increase life of the gear train or life of transmission Oil costing 90$ )
Thank you very much! I would like to point something out though: when putting the passenger side CV axle back, the bracket goes on top while the bearing cap goes below it.
The Video is 1:43 minutes, in real time how long did it take? mine is leaking and I'd like to know in real hours so I can compare shop rates to DIY? I can do it myself, but don't want to, if it won't break the bank for my local shop to do it!
I would say probably about 4 hours total if I wasn’t recording it.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thanks thats very helpful.
so, you can use MityVac as a vacuum pump and as a pump? did you push fluid into the salve cylinder using the MityVac? or did you suck brake fluid from the reservoir through the slave cylinder aplying vacuum with the mityvac? i'm confused here, please let me know how it is. Thanks!
hi man o have a ford fiesta 1.3 1997 endura e engine I just bought a new clutch and slave cylinder on April 27 and instal it think the machinic didn't bleed it properly last week on the 5 of may month i stacked on the road couldn't get any gears the paddle was all the way down to the floor there was break fluid in then I show by the gearbox by the nipples side there was break fluid leaking and only if the vehicle is of there is gears and when u start it there is no gears does that mean the slave cylinder is gone again
Have you tried turning the bleeder screw on the gearbox for the slave cylinder just to make sure it was closed all the way?
I will check that didn't try it yet and there is stil fluid inside the will try and top it up and bleed it again and see b4 I buy I new one
How high of a jack would i need to get enough clearance to get transmission out. I got everything ready but the floor jack.
I’d say probably at least 24 inches. If you have a smaller jack you could always use a large block of wood.
Great job an video I’m a mechanic just retired and my wife has a 2016 fiesta , great car but getting gear selection problems iv done the drill out n grease up of change cable end just wondering did you have problems getting into gear and then it corrected its self and was this the slave , as I can’t see any loss in brake res fluid at all . Thanks for the video 👍
I can't seem to separate the axle from the wheel hub from either side of the car. I also couldn't get the lower ball joint separated so I am going the strut-caliper removal route. I've spent about 4 hours trying to remove the axle from the wheel hub and it has me worried. I just can't get the axles to move. I've hit the axle with a rubber mallet. I've used a block of wood and a 'regular' hammer. After hours of pounding on it(it's not damaged) I had to give up. I have an air hammer and I am going to try that next. I need to go to the store and buy a pointed chisel since I don't have one. Is there any other way I can get the transmission out without separating from the wheel hub? Do I need to take out both axles?
I was able to get them out by using a small air hammer and a pointed chisel. Yeeee Haaaw.....
In the process of following your video the line that runs to the slave cylinder doesn't want to seat all the way in. I've tried pushing the green part with a screw driver and then sliding the clip down and I can still pull the line off what am I missing?
It should just click in. Did you try pushing the spring clip all the way down in the groove and then pushing the line in and it should just snap right in since it’s sprung by pressure.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE is it light pressure because it pulls out very easy
Does anyone know the name of the sensor that he detached at 10:45? When I was gently pulling on mine it broke.... Please help.
That should be your back up light switch so even if the connector broke off you can still drive it around you just won’t have reverse lights.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thank you for the quick response. I am going to have to replace it to pass inspection unfortunately. I don't see how to replace it but I'm going to have to figure it out. Thank you for the great video.
@@andyzaluski it should just unscrew out of there just find a large wrench or a deep socket to get it out. amzn.to/3GnyruB
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thank you. I order it and I just have to wait for it to get here....
Thanks for posting. Went out to my 2011 hatch and discovered giant puddle of brake fluid and no pedal resistance with no master cylinder leaks. Just wanted to see how much hell I'm going to put my poor mechanic through this week. I figure 150k miles is pretty good for a clutch replacement while he's at it.
I have just finished fitting my new clutch following your video, and it was a great help. However I have a problem, when I started the engine with the car still in the air the wheels started turning, I can stop them by hand though. Also I have a slight rattle sound from the gearbox, this disappears when I press the clutch pedal down.
The wheels spinning with it in the air and in neutral is completely normal the input shaft is still spinning even with it it neutral so the wheels will spin but not enough to move the car. As far the rattle in the gearbox does it do it with the wheels on the ground?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE yes it does it on the ground as well, its also a bit difficult to get into reverse.
@@paulwharton1484 I’m assuming you replaced the gear oil and put the correct amount in? Also may need to adjust the shift cable and see if that helps to get it into reverse better.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I did replace the oil and measured it, I forgot to mention that I had difficulty bleeding the system, I had to use the 2 man method because I didn't have a tool like you had, It took us ages just to get a decent peddle.
@@paulwharton1484 yeah you may want to try bleeding it again the way I did it and see if that helps at all.
My Slave cylinder just went out and I'm thinking of replacing the clutch "while I'm in there". Only 36k miles, so I doubt it needs it, but I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and do it? Also, how is the Luk kit holding up?
If your going to be in there might as well. I was in the same boat as you slave cylinder was bad but mine was leaking which got all over the clutch. No issues with the luk clutch that’s what the oem one was.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Yeah, as common as it is for these cars' slave cylinder to go out, I'm kinda surprised there wasn't a recall.. or maybe I just wasn't aware? I just recently bought mine used, so I wasn't familiar with the problem until the purchase was made. But I'm just ranting at this point lol thank you for the reply and thanks for the detailed/informative tutorial!
So what prompted you to change the clutch? Great video BTW.
Slave cylinder was leaking brake fluid so I figured might as well do the clutch since I had to pull the transmission to replace the slave cylinder.
I'm confused with this "reverse bleeding procedure". When we bleed the clutch or brakes, we pump brake fluid to make sure there's no air in the system. If you're doing it alone, I understand doing it that way, but is there a reason this can't be done the "2-person" way, as in, p1 depresses clutch pedal, p2 opens bleeder, closes, p1 lets go, depresses again, so on and so forth?
Hi there is it the same process for a ford fiesta S 2016 ??
Yes it will be the same.
Thank you very much for the video
Great video. I'm a bit confused on the reverse bleeding portion. Wouldn't pumping the mighty mightyvac just put the clutch slave in a vacuum? How does it push the fluid from the reservoir in? Thanks I have a harbor freight bleeder basically a knockoff of the one you used.
Nice guide, but just to note that the bolt you removed isn't a drain plug. It's a detent for the shifters inside (thats why there's a ball bearing on the end).
There is no drain plug on the IB5 gearbox... Stupid design if you ask me.
Wow that was a very informative video. Thank you for all your knowledge. How expensive should it cost to put a new slave, new clutch kit no resurfacing. It look labor intensive??
you dont necessarly need to remove the axles on the wheelside. I removed them only by the gearbox side.
Is this the same for a 2016? Or are they different
It will be the same.
how much pressure did you apply when bleeding the slave? I cannot get my slave to properly engage my clutch after re assembly
I wasn’t really paying attention to the pressure I just was pumping the 3-4 oz of fresh brake fluid in to the slave cylinder.
What’s you clutch pedal doing? Is it sinking to the floor?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE the clutch just doesn’t feel like it’s building pressure after all bleeding procedures. I’m thinking there may also be a failing master cylinder at this point
@@jackflashautorepair yeah that’s what I was going to suggest sounds like the master cylinder.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thanks for a quick reply! Your video was a super helpful reference as I did this clutch job. Great work, this is the type of content I aim to make.
I have a fair bit mechanical experience does anybody have an estimate on about how many hours I should be expecting how to change my slave cylinder
I would say your looking at 4-6 hours total.
Hello, awesome video!
Was wondering how long did it take you to do all this work? The video is about 1.5 hours but there are a lot of speed ups … thanks
I’d say if I wasn’t recording it probably around 4-5 hours or so.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE for you by yourself, yeah, I bet they can do at least that in Ford garage… not sure where 10 hours came from
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you for commenting
@@MrMeowNow yeah these cars are very simple and basic not a lot to pull when doing this job which makes it nice.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE so I want to ask you a question. So I have fiesta 2013, and it drives great, no issue with shifting or anything. The only thing is , when I drive about 20-40 mile an hour there is a grinding noise almost like a front wheel rubbing on something … that happened after I got the 120,000 mile service. When I took it in to Ford, they drove it a bit and told me it’s a clutch and it needs to be replaced. Gave me a price tag of $3000. When I asked them how they tested it, they said , we drove the car and listened… No codes no nothing . Will be taking it to another Ford place this Friday.
Question is about that noise, is it possible it’s a clutch or maybe they just want me to get a new car and get the fiesta off the road.
Thanks you
wow.. amazing job
Hello. Really appreciate the video literally saved me hundreds.
My brake fluid got old and dirty and was losing my clutch.(clutch was going almost straight to the floor and needed to be pumped a few times to get it to engage). so I just flushed my brake fluid on my fiesta. Thru the brake lines and the slave cylinder. And now the clutch engages really high now. Any ideas on how to adjust / Fix it?
Same issue, im just doing the rest of the work. Replacing clutch and slave. Already replace master and bled the system. The issue was resolved after bleeding for 1 day but continues to come back. Oddly I’m it losing brake fluid though.
they want 1700 to replace my clutch idk if thats a good price or not . i have a whining noise when i press the clutch pedal down
Sounds kinda high to me I was thinking $1200 at the most. Most likely your throw out bearing is making noise.
I did everything you said in the video step by step. And now my car won't turn on. What could be wrong?
Did you double check all your wires especially that ground wire under the battery. When you say not turning do you mean like not electrical or it won’t start and stay running?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Yes but I can always go back & check them again. Like it won't start & run
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE it's just making a clicking sound that's all
@@cowboyfrank yeah definitely go back and check that ground wire under the battery box that connects to the transmission it’s in the video at 1:31:21 because if that’s not getting a good ground the car will just click and not start.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE okay it worked. Now I need to put gas in it & see if it fully turns & stays on
Excellent step by step 👍
When you replace the brake fluid, is the a step needed to bleed the slave cylinder or do you just youse the steps you took when pumping the clutch in reverse?
If your just replacing the brake fluid you shouldn’t have to bleed the slave cylinder.
Amazing video !!! Thank you very much
Wow, this is incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Excellent compenent tutorial.
Thank you very helpful
Is the fly wheel supposed to rotate freely once the transmission side is off? Or it it a possible sign of something else that is wrong with my car. It's currently sitting in my garage waiting for the clutch kit to arrive, and would like to know of i need to check anything else while I'm under the car.
There should be a little resistance but yes it should be able move because with the transmission out it’s pretty much in neutral because there’s no gears being able to hold it in place that is why you need to use a tool to hold the flywheel when tightening the flywheel bolts.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you for your reply and for the very informative video.
I just installed a clutch, presureplate, and RS slave cylinder into my Focus ST - and now I leak break fluid when i press clutch - clutch is kissing the floor. Im pissed if I have to drop the tranny again. It looks like its leaking from bell housing, but i cant confirm.
Sounds like you slave cylinder might be leaking. What bleed procedure did you use?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I used a bleeder vacuum. Attached to bleeder screw on top of slave cylinder - pressed clutch peddle with a stick to the floor - opened the bleeder - until some air come up, closed it, released the clutch while car was off. Repeated this multiple times. Still air in system. Still clutch stuck to the floor.
@@dannyj7618 you may need to try and bleed it like I did in the video it’s almost like a reverse bleed instead of pulling fluid it’s actually fixing fluid in the system. Hopefully it’s not leaking from the slave cylinder because of to much pressure.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thats what i was worried about - I put max psi on the vacuum and fear I damaged a seal. Appreciate the reply. You're totally right, I misread the workshop manual. I had to pump the brake fluid INTO the bleeder, than top it off at brake reservoir.
@@dannyj7618 maybe try bleeding it again this way and see if it works. If not I hate to say it but you may need to drop it again and replace the slave cylinder.
Great video
Thanks bro u saved me so much money
Thanks for the video very well produced! 👍
Personally I wouldn’t use LUK because of reliability I always depend on Borg & beck only on the basis that the reliability factor is better and lasts longer 👍
When I googled the numbers on the side of the box that contained my clutch, luk model in luk printed box etc, it came back with a Borg and beck clutch. One number on the box came back with the luk kit that was in the box and the other number the Borg and beck. Very strange.
This video is awesome.. any chance you have a timing belt job coming up? Haha
Thanks! Unfortunately no not at the moment when I bought this car the timing belt had just been replaced.
I was doing a new clutch on my MK4 Fiesta. :D Everything was just fine, I changed whole clutch, did the bleeding and etc...After that I wanted to try the clutch If is working properly. I started the engine with clutch enganged, shifter was on neutral. I released the clutch and wheels started to turn forward. :D I though: "Its ok, I will just shut it down and move a little bit with shift rod going to transmission". And when I was under the car, suddenly I cannot move with that shift rod going through seal to the transmission. It is feeling like jammed or stuck on some gear (1,3 or 5 I think).Cannot change gears even with enganged clutch or released clutch with engine on or off. :(
Sorry for the late response did you end up figuring out what was wrong with it?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Oh yes! I did found the problem! :D On the bottom side nearly next to the drain nut of transmission is another nut. It is hard to explain why is there or what is it, because I do not really know so far. :D Its just a nut with a "nose" and when I unscrewed that, inside is a moving roller in oil. Out of curiosity I tried the shift rod and it was moving! :D So I screw that strange nut with a nose back in, filled up with transmission fluid and car is working! :D
Thanks for the tutorial man, it helped a lot, even your car is from 2011, basically not much really change. Only in my car, there isnt so much electronic. :D
@@richguest9480 good to hear you got it figured out. Thanks for the positive feedback.
Nice
Does anyone know where I can find the bolt lengths for the bolts that hold the transmission in? Like an idiot I didn't mark them when I removed them and I am trying to put the transmission back in. I also do not have a transmission jack so I'm trying to figure out how to get it back up there. I saw someone use ratchet straps on a different vehicle/transmission but I don't know...
If I remember right they were all pretty close to same in size only a few were different lengths. Can you tell by my video on the lengths? I’ve actually used a 3 ton jack with a large piece of wood instead of a transmission jack or if you got a couple buddies to help to hoist it back into place.
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ممتاز
11:05
1:25
Un comon car
dont do it, unless you can afford to have the car standing until even a week. Its more difficult that it seems
Excellent video!!!