A book that you might find helpful for designing instruments is Air Columns and Toneholes Principles for Wind Instrument Design by Bart Hopkin. It has information on tonehole locations, as well as many other things. Great video, as always!
Awesome video! The only informatIon I can find on this subject. (Trying to figure out if I can add a key to my bagpipe.) I’d like to Frankenstein some keys off of a broken woodwind, but not sure where to start.
I'm making an Internal duct bass recorder like instrument but I used the formula Length(inches)=(tube diameter/2)+(13,514.17/desired frequency in Htz) to find tone hole locations. *13,514.17 is the speed of sound in inches per second. Doesn't tell how big the tone hole needs to be or anything but it helped me with finding the point in which I needed to put toneholes along the pipe. *The original formula was the same except in the formula they had Length(inches)=(tube diameter/2)+(13,514.17/desired frequency in Htz x 2) but I couldn't seem to get this one to work right maybe someone else will have more luck but the one listed prior worked much better for me.
Jared, It looks like you used 1 1/2" Schedule 40 ABS plumbing DWV pipe (which is nominally 1.590" / 40.386mm ID) for your Octocontrabass. There is available (admittedly not quite as readily available, but at least in our area at full service plumbing/DIY stores primarily for irrigation/well applications) a 1 1/4" Schedule 40 (1.360" / 34.544mm ID) White PVC pipe. That might suit your stated "not more than 35mm" limit. I like what you're doing. It gives me the old hankering . . .
Great video! As another comment has stated, perhaps the mouthpiece can be redesigned rather than the whole instrument, but regardless, I look forward to seeing what happens next. I think this would be helpful to another youtuber who’s working on building a Nelinda
Great tip. But what if you dont have ‘spare keys?’. I saw ‘historical’ instruments where the keys were made from flat square pieces of brass soldered to brass rods. This is what im looking into as i want to finish an unfinished bass recorder that has been on the shelf for ages. Any insight would be great, and it might help with your megaclarinet challenges to make your own keys as well...
This is certainly doable. I've made keys from raw brass before but I've found that you can buy a box full of clarinet parts for far cheaper than a large amount of brass square stock/tubing.
Your channel is great, full of exciting videos, and this one is very enlightful as well. Have you tried doing clarinet key castings with 3D printing such as lost pla or abs casting instead? There are some impressive channels like VOG, I think you could get some interesting results for your octocontrabass project. Cheers!
This is great! I've been making simple flutes for a while and want to try making a simple 5 key baroque style clarinet. Can you recommend a bore diameter for PVC to make an A pitched basset clarinet?
@@Jared_De_Leon So I had a problem or two that some help addressing would be amazing. First is that the only note the really resonated was the bottom note. Once I started to drill tone holes the notes barely came through and are unstable. Could it be the bore of the mouthpiece not lining up in size to the bore of the body? That is the only discrepancy I can think of unless I just need thicker walls? I'd really like as much help as you can give so if you'd be able to just message me somewhere too that'd be awesome.
Jamie Duke it sounds more like the tone holes are not large enough. For a basset clarinet they should be 3/8” or around 10mm minimum for the lowest notes. The upper tone holes can be as small as 5mm but the smaller they are the more resistant the instrument will be.
Just found your channel. It’s fantastic. How did your level the tone hole? I am curious as to whether you use a special tool for this (also curious if you use a special tool to level wood tone holes). Thanks and looking forward to future videos
For these large toneholes, I actually just glue a piece of sandpaper to a flat piece of wood and use that to finish the surface. For toneholes on smaller instruments I use cylindrical Dremel bits that I sand the bottom flat on to create a smooth cutting surface.
I by no means create professional instruments so I mostly use icelolly sticks cut to varying sizes with electrical tape padding to create keys on my contrabass instruments, I never use a key unless absolutely necessary.
@@Jared_De_Leon hey thanks, I did kind of give up on building wind instruments and now focus mainly on strings, I hope to try building more when I have a more suitable set up though but I don't think I'm going to lose my built-from-scrap style any time soon
Don’t do it unless you’re in it for the long haul. I’ve been working for 2-3 years now (I’m in Senior year of High School). I had no experience with instrument building, acoustics, or anything like that when I started, so it was very difficult to get started. I’m currently trying to work out creating 3D printed keys and mechanisms, but I’m only working on something comparatively easy for now: a low Eb extension for a Bb clarinet. That’s just one extra key, and I’ve been trying to figure out everything for that for months now (I finally started 3D printing sample parts yesterday). So imagine applying that knowledge to a whole contra, especially if you’re going for something complex, like Boehm keywork. If you want to do this, I wish you the best of luck, and i hope you succeed, but be warned if you have no prior experience with these things.
In order to do that I would need to have access to a CNC machine which I don't unfortunately. I suppose I could 3D print a blank but I would need to have someone reface it to make it good which would be out of my budget.
Jaded, I'm sure you're more than capable of putting a facing on a mouthpiece. It's really not the black art that many would have us believe. Feeler gauges, a sheet of glass, fine abrasive paper, and a lot of patience are all that's needed.
The problem with 3D printed mouthpieces is that they are barely playable when first made. They need to be hand finished to be any good so I would still need to send it out to someone to reface it.
![GUILTY GEAR -STRIVE- Season Pass 4 Playable Character #1 [Queen Dizzy] Trailer](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nXDsAgYXXv4/mqdefault.jpg)
A book that you might find helpful for designing instruments is Air Columns and Toneholes Principles for Wind Instrument Design by Bart Hopkin. It has information on tonehole locations, as well as many other things. Great video, as always!
That pfp scared me for a second
Awesome video! The only informatIon I can find on this subject. (Trying to figure out if I can add a key to my bagpipe.) I’d like to Frankenstein some keys off of a broken woodwind, but not sure where to start.
I find this so cool, inspires me to modify my Bb clarinet
no don't do that
Matt Miller why?
Nitrogens because you’re gonna break it
all i can say is your work is inspiring,
Great video! Instead of giving up the octocontrabass project, can't you just get a better suited mouthpiece?
I'm making an Internal duct bass recorder like instrument but I used the formula Length(inches)=(tube diameter/2)+(13,514.17/desired frequency in Htz) to find tone hole locations. *13,514.17 is the speed of sound in inches per second. Doesn't tell how big the tone hole needs to be or anything but it helped me with finding the point in which I needed to put toneholes along the pipe.
*The original formula was the same except in the formula they had Length(inches)=(tube diameter/2)+(13,514.17/desired frequency in Htz x 2) but I couldn't seem to get this one to work right maybe someone else will have more luck but the one listed prior worked much better for me.
Jared, It looks like you used 1 1/2" Schedule 40 ABS plumbing DWV pipe (which is nominally 1.590" / 40.386mm ID) for your Octocontrabass. There is available (admittedly not quite as readily available, but at least in our area at full service plumbing/DIY stores primarily for irrigation/well applications) a 1 1/4" Schedule 40 (1.360" / 34.544mm ID) White PVC pipe. That might suit your stated "not more than 35mm" limit. I like what you're doing. It gives me the old hankering . . .
Hello, this instrument was made with 1 1/4” pipe. Home Depot and Lowe’s both stock it which is very convenient.
Great video! As another comment has stated, perhaps the mouthpiece can be redesigned rather than the whole instrument, but regardless, I look forward to seeing what happens next. I think this would be helpful to another youtuber who’s working on building a Nelinda
I've always wanted to attempt to create my own instrument, but I've never really knew a way to make keys.
Great tip. But what if you dont have ‘spare keys?’. I saw ‘historical’ instruments where the keys were made from flat square pieces of brass soldered to brass rods. This is what im looking into as i want to finish an unfinished bass recorder that has been on the shelf for ages. Any insight would be great, and it might help with your megaclarinet challenges to make your own keys as well...
This is certainly doable. I've made keys from raw brass before but I've found that you can buy a box full of clarinet parts for far cheaper than a large amount of brass square stock/tubing.
Also the bigger parts for larger instruments? Where do you buy them?
Brilliant. Thanks Jared!
Your channel is great, full of exciting videos, and this one is very enlightful as well. Have you tried doing clarinet key castings with 3D printing such as lost pla or abs casting instead? There are some impressive channels like VOG, I think you could get some interesting results for your octocontrabass project. Cheers!
I was wondering how you did this! Great video!
This is great! I've been making simple flutes for a while and want to try making a simple 5 key baroque style clarinet. Can you recommend a bore diameter for PVC to make an A pitched basset clarinet?
1/2” PVC is the closest.
@@Jared_De_Leon So I had a problem or two that some help addressing would be amazing. First is that the only note the really resonated was the bottom note. Once I started to drill tone holes the notes barely came through and are unstable. Could it be the bore of the mouthpiece not lining up in size to the bore of the body? That is the only discrepancy I can think of unless I just need thicker walls? I'd really like as much help as you can give so if you'd be able to just message me somewhere too that'd be awesome.
Jamie Duke it sounds more like the tone holes are not large enough. For a basset clarinet they should be 3/8” or around 10mm minimum for the lowest notes. The upper tone holes can be as small as 5mm but the smaller they are the more resistant the instrument will be.
Do you have any ideas for how to achieve a tapered bore tubing for saxophone/double reed instruments?
The best way to do this is to make something like a Yamaha Venova. Other than that you really need some kind of lathe to make a conical pipe.
@@Jared_De_Leon I was thinking of trying a Fajardo Wedge that runs the whole length of the pipe.
Now I’m gonna buy a very cheap bassoon from eBay and take those keys.
Just found your channel. It’s fantastic. How did your level the tone hole? I am curious as to whether you use a special tool for this (also curious if you use a special tool to level wood tone holes). Thanks and looking forward to future videos
For these large toneholes, I actually just glue a piece of sandpaper to a flat piece of wood and use that to finish the surface. For toneholes on smaller instruments I use cylindrical Dremel bits that I sand the bottom flat on to create a smooth cutting surface.
So I’m guessing this means an update video soon🤔
Time to build an octo contra alto clarinet
I by no means create professional instruments so I mostly use icelolly sticks cut to varying sizes with electrical tape padding to create keys on my contrabass instruments, I never use a key unless absolutely necessary.
That's really cool!
@@Jared_De_Leon hey thanks, I did kind of give up on building wind instruments and now focus mainly on strings, I hope to try building more when I have a more suitable set up though but I don't think I'm going to lose my built-from-scrap style any time soon
I'm getting a hotdog wity landlady.
It’s been months since you told me that you were going to make an octocontrabass clarinet. Now HelicopterHarmonics hates me.
Now why would I hate you? It couldn't be from all of the constant spamming you did. That would be silly.
@HelicopterHarmonics It is from the spamming. BTW, what do I need to do to make you unhide my channel?
@Hyperoctosubcontrabassoon I know, I was being sarcastic.
No way a homemade contra I might build one
Don’t do it unless you’re in it for the long haul. I’ve been working for 2-3 years now (I’m in Senior year of High School). I had no experience with instrument building, acoustics, or anything like that when I started, so it was very difficult to get started. I’m currently trying to work out creating 3D printed keys and mechanisms, but I’m only working on something comparatively easy for now: a low Eb extension for a Bb clarinet. That’s just one extra key, and I’ve been trying to figure out everything for that for months now (I finally started 3D printing sample parts yesterday). So imagine applying that knowledge to a whole contra, especially if you’re going for something complex, like Boehm keywork. If you want to do this, I wish you the best of luck, and i hope you succeed, but be warned if you have no prior experience with these things.
Why not just get a bigger mouthpiece or make one for your octocontrabass
In order to do that I would need to have access to a CNC machine which I don't unfortunately. I suppose I could 3D print a blank but I would need to have someone reface it to make it good which would be out of my budget.
Jaded, I'm sure you're more than capable of putting a facing on a mouthpiece. It's really not the black art that many would have us believe. Feeler gauges, a sheet of glass, fine abrasive paper, and a lot of patience are all that's needed.
@@Jared_De_Leon Could Richard Bobo 3D print one for you? His contrabasoon project is really coming along with 3D printing prototyped parts! :)
The problem with 3D printed mouthpieces is that they are barely playable when first made. They need to be hand finished to be any good so I would still need to send it out to someone to reface it.