As I said in the video Derek, there are loads of variables that make the process of wood finishing (particularly outdoors) unique. Case of one bitten twice shy with me in this instance pal 👍
I must admit my experience with Osmo clear satin 420 has been good. Our cabin was built in Sept 2023, I applied two coats of oil then on the cedar clad. Move on one year and there were signs of greying on the bottom cladding that sit on the composite decking. I half expected this, as it's closer to rain splash back etc. Anyway, over the year the cedar in general had faded to a lighter colour which I actually prefer than the red colour the cedar originally came in. I applied two more coats last weekend and I'm really pleased with the finish, very even and some of the redness has come back but no where near to what was originally supplied. I only lightly sanded the wood before application. My issue now is that I have a 3 litre tin and only used about 500ml! Am I ok to keep that under the stairs for another year??
I will add my two cents to this, as you said, so many variables. I used Osmo UV Protecton Extra on a freshly built garden office 2 years ago and the finish was lovely and its been incredibly easy to maintain. But, I also used it on my new shed last year and 14 months later, it looks like utter pish which has silvered and faded badly. I get that things can be variable with wood, weather and other out of control situations, but for the price I'd at least expect a more forgiving product which performs better than it does. The price is very high for something that seems entirely unpredicatible in terms of performance. So I agree with you entirely!
It was applied to my oak garden room here in the North of England. Looked fine for a year but know we have black spots and silvering. The osmo wood reviver gel is garbage on black spots and silvering. What is the best way to remove the black mould spots? I have a feeling I know but I was hoping there would be an easy way. Many thanks.
I have similar issues with OSMO on exterior timber, I have sanded back and re-treated with OSMO but the issues have come back. I will use a different product in future. The timber is south facing and gets all the bad weather the English climate can throw at it. The OSMO treated timber looked great for a couple of months but is now covered in black stains so will need to be re-sanded and re-treated. Thanks Leo for sharing your findings.
Cheers Ian for the comment. I think the comments here have pointed out there do appear to be issues with it in particular with the British climate. Not worth the premium price in my humble opinion 😀👍
About 40 years ago I was tasked with building platforms to be positioned alongside the production line at Fords of Dagenham the cladding we applied for the decking was the same timber you have used. The reason this was chosen was because it was impervious to oil penetration! We called it bastard teak (Kerung) from memory I do not think we were asked to apply a finish, however it was for indoor use. When you first mentioned using this timber you said it had been used for lorry floors, similar use to the decking platforms that I built. Probably best left to naturalise.
Great story pal. I think the method I’ve just used will be better and if annual upkeep is just sprayed once or twice a year then I’m happy with that 😀👍
I’m really interested to see how this works out. My initial thought is the linseed alone isn’t going to eliminate the greying. It Will lack the UV filters in other formulations. But I agree that osmo is pricey. I’ve tried several alternatives and each has a downside to its advantage. Anyway thanks for sharing.
Cheers Karl. As I said in the video it’s consistency I’m after, if it all ends up silvering then I’m ok with that. But spending a considerable amount expecting consistency and getting nowhere near it was very disappointing
@@Nick-r9zalternatives include Armoirtech, Barrettine and Cuprinol. Downsides generally include frequency of reapplication and the degree to which the wood is ambers. Also, some oils are a pain to apply to vertical surfaces. The advantages generally is consistency of finish when reapplying annually. I’ve found natural Cuprinol UV Decking oil to be a good all round product which doesn’t mind a year or two between redcoats and is easy to apply with a nice colour on softwood cladding.
Found this v interesting three years ago I installed cedar cladding - probably about 30 sq metres and immediately finished with OSMO - the next year it was still looking great in the summer but a little faded so I coated again with OSMO UV protection oil, and over the winter the cedar now has black staining consistently over most of the cladding. It looks terrible and today I started to sand it back - and I’m having to cut back probably 4 coats of dried OSMO to get rid of the black marks - what an effort completing this is going to be!! It appears the black marking has penetrated all coats !! So I can empathise with the OP - I put last years coat on in good weather with no inclement weather in the days after. I can only conclude that OSMO as a product has either changed formula, or it’s an inconsistent product that can’t be trusted. I’m not looking forward to having to sand all of this back and will NOT be taking the OSMO risk again 😢
Thanks for the comment Mike and also sharing your experiences. Yes sanding back is a nightmare but needs to be done properly. I don’t know if you have caught my latest video on the channel looking at different types of outdoor finishes?
About the same as the Osmo Michael. I’ve set up quite a bit experiment testing different finishes on the front of my workshop. Recent video on my channel if you’d like to check it out 👍
@Hand-i-Craft I've got pretty big area of batten fence to treat so was looking at my best options. Money wise also as osmo is coming in pretty expensive. I've watched your recent video of the difference products you've applied. I'll keep an eye out for how it turns out.
I’d say something like a polyurethane varnish would be a good idea. There are specific floor varnishes available but my understanding is polyurethane ones are the most durable 👍
Interesting.... I've used Osmo Polyx oil on interior floors, and their exterior One Coat Only HS Plus, both with great success. The coverage on the latter was not great- I had to use a lot, and two coats, but the color (ebony- a true black), hasn't shown any fading in more than two years. (Applied on freshly milled and planed cedar). I wonder if it has to do with it's having more pigment that the transparent variety you demonstrated. I have a can of their decking oil in thermowood, which is in between what you applied and the ebony I used. I'm really hoping it doesn't fail. One thing I've taken away from your video is to avoid their transparent oil. Of course, all of these vary slightly in formulation- which could also be a factor. Our climates are fairly similar. Thanks for the honest review!
Thanks for the comments and sharing your positive experiences with Osmo. There are so many variables as to why a product can ‘fail’, but for it to happen twice for me means I’ll be giving it a miss from now onwards 👍👍
I had a total refurb on my house exterior and had the front and side top half clad in Canadian red cedar and the bottom half rendered which looked fabulous. The red cedar came pre finished with a water based uv varnish at a cost of 4k fitted. 4 years on and the varnish is fading and peeling in places and the cedar starting the greying process in patches. Wood Finishes Direct have advised me that I have to strip the varnish off with paint stripper (Owatrol), wash it all down and then use a wood brightener (Owatrol Net- Trol), sand it all down and then use Osmo. All of this is a massive, time consuming expensive undertaking with the added expense of scaffolding. I now realise what massive mistake I made having the cedar cladding in the first place and should have gone with the full render or used composite boards instead of cedar. My current dilemma is, should i undertake Wood Finishes Direct advice which sounds correct to me (the downside of this is I will have to re finish every 1-2 years including scaffolding) or paint the cedar with a high performance paint which some claim can last up to 10 years or rip the whole lot off and use composite boards or render? It would seem that I have got myself into a right dilemma which is hugely expensive and time consuming either way. Any advice?
Hello Stephen, thanks for the message and apologies for such a late reply. No idea why but your message went into my possible Spam folder so I’ve only just seen it. Personally if I was in your shoes I’d strip the finish off and then just leave it. Yes it will naturally grey but if it’s uniform across the whole surface area it’ll look great and will last (I think) for around 25-30 years. I’d much rather do that than paint it which personally I think wouldn’t look nice. As I’ve found out, any kind of wood treatment to try and retain its original colour will require some form of regular maintenance and this is difficult for you for reasons mentioned like scaffolding etc. If I were in your shoes pal, I’d strip it back and l let nature take its course 👍
We had a lovely red cedar hut for our youth group. After 30 years of it weathering fine, they painted it with a thick dark brown paint. Looks awful now it's cracked and peeled in places
With the exception of deck oil (Mannings) I have yet to find an exterior wood finish that doesn't suffer badly in our damp climate. Osmo interior for me is a great product but I tried Osmo exterior UV protection on an oak garden bench and it went patchy grey with black mould after one winter. I have since sanded it, applied a wood preservative followed by deck oil, will be interesting to see how it does. I have also used Owatrol Textrol HES Clear on red cedar of a garden room. If you think Osmo is expensive, the Textrol HES was over £200 for 5 litres. I must be a fool but it was recommended by a well known garden room builder and those that have built their own garden rooms. Mine looked terrible after one winter, grey with black spots all over it. Only areas not subject to moisture were good. I have sanded it back and applied Barrantine wood preserver. I am now thinking what I should put on top of that, possible deck oil which has worked great on my decks and fences. Note that I always follow the manufacturers instructions and I always check the wood moisture content before applying a finish.
@petra Thanks for the advice, I will definitely research Salolin. I am thinking of coating several samples of wood with various products and leaving them out all winter to see what does best. I like an experiment. 😊
I used the osmo on a new shed and some raised sleeper beds 3 years ago and the shed still looks like the day I applied it but the sleepers have flaked and have black patches I think it’s down to moisture content of the timber at time of application.
The moisture in the timber was spot on when I applied it pal (less than 12%). I think the climate here doesn’t help and the high sap content of the wood, kind of makes the idea of forking out a small fortune on a ‘premium’ finish a waste of time 🤷♂️
I used Osmo on our oak shutters in France. After 10 years and one refresh without sanding the finish is still pretty good. The problem has been that the shutters do change width quite a lot as the weather changes (summer to winter). They swelled so much I couldn't close them and then after reducing the width on one side so they closed (retreating with Osmo) after a couple of years I had to build up one side again to allow the locks to engage. Last year they blew open in a storm so I have now fitted an extra bolt inside which is tiresome as I can only open them from inside when it's used. It does work - so far - though. I don't know how I could have avoided this although I suspect that when they were made a bit more cleanse should have been provided in the grooves on the stiles to allow the T&G boards to expand sideways a bit more.
In the last video I did Mike, there were a few comments from folk who used Osmo for years but have moved away from it in recent times, maybe not quite what it once was or the competition had caught up and overtook them 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Use Impra ( Clear) Comes in two tins one is the undercoat ( called color) the other is the top coat ( elan) . Theres a good video on how to apply but two coats of each in short. I have also seen Osmo fail to protect oak exteanal window lintels.
The cladding only received finish on the side surface right? So maybe moisture and rain water is seeping in from the gaps between the strips and get trapped by the side finish and started micro rotting
Great video and advice. As an enthusiastic amateur, i also dont mind the high initial cost if you get a longer lasting product, and is slightly forgiving for amateur techniques. However, high cost without these benefits doesn't seem justified.
Thanks for the kind feedback. In my humble opinion the Osmo just isn’t worth the money as it doesn’t deliver any additional benefits at the much higher price point it to finishes at a fraction of the cost 👍👍
I used OSMO on my Green Oak Frame exterior... Nice finish worked well. I used the same on kiln dried oak window frames, and they went black in areas (which is usually a reaction with ferrus materials or Iron dust) very odd - I had used Pewter, Brass and Stainless to stop that horrid Black effect you get on Oak. Just for the sake of disclosure - I did my interior of the Green Oak with Liberon Wax rubbed it with a hard bristle brush and it was EPIC! So I would advise anyone doing internals consider a nice wax brushed finish.
Thank you for sharing your experiences here with Osmo. I do believe plenty of folk take the time to read through the comments section so it is nice to get a variety of experiences and opinions 👍
Hi. Interesting vid. I was just searching for OSMO product as I was advised to use it on my garden cabin. Desperately needs something. Cuprinol? However, I want to keep the natural wood look rather than a colour. Whatever I use it looks like I have to apply product every 12 months. I have silver and black spots. Would it be best to sand this back first?
Mine was the same issue, wanting to keep the natural wood finish. I think the reality is you can’t really stop the silvering, but if it happens uniformly then that is much better than patchy issues like I had with the Osmo. The mixture I used instead of Osmo is working really well, it will need yearly maintenance and is a fraction of the cost of Osmo👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Thanks for the reply. May I ask about the mixture you are using? I might give that a go. Osmo is £80 for 2.5L. Two local trades recommended it.
@@Hand-i-Craft If I was to boil Linseed oil I would have to do that on the job on the kitchen. Not sure that will go down well in the house haha. My cabin is 6M x 4M so might need a fair few litres mix of it.😃
I think that you’re video title is misleading. Slightly. The results depends on the type of wood the absorption. The amount of sunlight it’s exposed to. I made house signs out of spruce they are exposed to the sun and rain and are holding up well. Our timber clad extension has a few areas that are greying and need retreating but I did look at linseed oil. Difficult to obtain pure linseed in large quantities and is it any better. I will retreat the areas in question and see if it’s better next year. Just my thoughts.
Cheers for the message, but I have to say I don’t think the title is misleading. I’m not one for clickbait, but I think calling out that this product is overpriced and overrated is balanced considering my experiences and also the cheaper alternatives 😀😀👍👍
One black mark against the turps/linseed is that it appears to have totally imobilized that dog at the end of the shed. The size of the mutts pupils suggest they’ve developed quite a fondness for turps vapor
Timmersol Exterior Timber Stabiliser is a great (and much cheaper) alternative to Osmo UV Oil. It's full of oil and wax and holds up really well, especially for log cabins which suffer from more timber movement issues than any other product. It's nano porous so still allows moisture to ingress and egress, but at a much slower rate than a micro porous wood oil, preventing those huge swings in timber movement.
Hope the new finish works better Leo, as you said, you pay a premium price you expect it to last and to degrade consistently with time. I’ve had a similar experience with Ronseal Fencelife Plus which is supposed to last 5 years. I sprayed our fence panels with it, wire brushed first and then 3 coats each side. The following year it was flaking off in places so I repainted it all again with a brush and now this year it’s again flaking off. I complained to Ronseal and they gave me some vouchers for replacement products but when I’ve finished it up I’ll be replacing the fence with UV resistant plastic panels as I can’t face painting the fence every year with what is supposed to be a 5 year product.
Exactly Geoffrey, if a product doesn’t live up to its claimed purpose, then what is the point🤷♂️. The composite panels sound like a good idea, no need to worry about maintenance then 👍👍
i think Osmo is hard to beat indoors, not overly keen outdoor, i had a similar issue on a garden bench i think that’s Iroko not sure if it suits certain woods (oak) and not others
Cheers Dave, lots of folk swear by the indoor PolyX stuff, but it appears it isn’t just you and I who aren’t a massive fan of the outdoor products 🤷♂️
Do a test piece of any small piece of wood... with just one coat of titebond 3. Leave it outside forever. It becomes a rich golden caramel color and is seemingly indestructible.
I remember this comment from you pal last time. My only concern was how to apply this and the consistency across the whole area which is quite substantial. You’re absolutely right though and I will try it on a piece to compare results 😀😀👍👍
first time on site and I see what you mean about the discoloration in the cladding and I wonder if the base problem isn't you or the product, but something with the wood itself, that the oil or something else in the osmo. Personally I'm not sure I'd use Osmo for outdoor projects
Thanks Phillip, I think it’s a combination of factors including the wood and the climate up here in the North West of England. I’m really interested to see how my new homemade mixture works out as, at a fraction of the cost of Osmo, I’d be more than happy to spray it once or twice a year to keep on top of it 👍
Not really had any issues with Osmo Oil apart from it being messy to use. It is very expensive but it has worked great for my garden room and garden hut.
Why haven't you spoken to osmo they are really helpful, I have many times. There is a osmo product called base coat for exterior wood you apply before the oil to stop mildew and black spot then the oil to seal. Also spraying it on out side in the wind for an oil its probably gone on far to thin. There is a specific amount per mtr for oils so best brushed or rolled on to soak in then wipe off if necessary. I have used it on lots of exterior wood no problems. I hope this helps.
I tried Stephen, twice, and received no reply to my concerns. When you see me spraying on the wood, that isn’t Osmo, that’s the mix I’m trying out instead of Osmo👍👍. Cheers for the message though and thanks for sharing your positive experiences with the product 😀👍
Great video Leo and nice to see an honest appraisal of the product. There are too many people out there who cannot see sense, even when it hits them in the face. Ignore the “negative Nellys” - they are not worth the air time!👍🏻👌🏻
Thanks Kevin. I was very undecided about making this video, but I’ve always prided myself on being honest. Folk would be hard pressed to find me being negative about stuff on my channel so when I do it’s done with good reason. Cheers for the comment pal 😀😀👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft you are one of the most positive channels I watch. You made the right decision. People can choose to value your experience or make a bad choice. Keep up the great work - the new coating looks great by the way.👍🏻
A superb video, Leo. So many Ads and product endorsements sing the praises of everything [such is the skullduggery of advertising]. Your piece here is what is sadly lacking in the commercial world. You are honest, you allow for; *other's experiences may vary; etc but the what makes it so vital is that personal experience counts for so much. They say, Recommendation outstrips Advertising and thats what your video is all about. I don't think you're out of order OR talking out-yer-A, I think you're on the money [and thats what its all about -for so many]. This is surely one of the most useful aspects of RUclips etc. Keep up the rants, your experience is the most valid part of any experience. Honest debate should not have to sink to argument and abuse - this is a common problem these days, everywhere - Shame on them!
Cheers Keith and this comment does really mean a lot. I very nearly didn’t do this video for a variety of reasons, but you’re right in the sense there doesn’t appear to be enough honesty, particularly (for whatever reason) with Osmo products🤷♂️. Btw will you be at makers central next weekend?
I was about to comment on the older video you have up regarding Osmo UV Protection Oil until I saw this follow up! Unfortunately, I have had the same experience with the product as you. I’m out in north-central California where it gets pretty dang hot in the summers and decently wet in the winter (Winter 2022 was epic [wet] for the whole state). I’ve got a long redwood bench that sits out in front of the house; thought I sanded well and then gave it a few coats of Osmo UV oil. It applied great and the finish really brought out the beautiful tones of the redwood. I was pretty happy for the remainder of the Summer and Fall. Winter hit and as I mentioned, it was an unusually wet winter for us out here. I’ve got a big sycamore that dumped leaves on the bench as well. As soon as the weather started warming up, I tried to clean up the bench and pressure wash it, and I just noticed all kinds of areas of the redwood that were darkening and spotty mildew (mold?). I was pretty disappointed like you, considering Osmo UV oil isn’t cheap. Could I have sanded better and could I have misapplied the product? Absolutely. Regardless, I’m out of Osmo UV oil and the stuff that I did put on, didn’t hold up. I’m going to try a product by Duckback and we’ll see what that does. Anyways, just passing along a shared experience. Take care.
I won't use Osmo UV again, either. I made a planter for my daughter, and finidhed it in Osmo UV. It was installed, in a sheltered position in the Spring. By Autumn, it looked awful. Black streaks and patches everywhere.
Agree totally. Used OSMO a few times now and always the same result regardless of how I apply it. Always fails and becomes spotchy within 8 months. On a side note, what’s the platform you were using?
Thanks for the message. Yes as I said in the video it could be the conditions where I live, but in the comments there are quite a lot of similar experiences 🤷♂️👍
really interesting to see if this holds up. Similar i used Osmo on my fence and to be honest 12 months later it looks really bad. I am going have to sand it all too. Feels like Omso is way over priced for what it offers.
I'm a joiner. I've only used it once on exterior oak door I built. 1 year and it was failing and where it had failed the wood had gone black so the whole job looked shocking. Never again.
Doesn't matter how others have found OSMO, you're talking about your experience ... others can either listen to your experience or ignore it and try it themselves ... in your case it didn't give the protection you thought it would and therefore wasn't the solution for you!! I'd prefer to use the brush for an external finish as it gives a far thicker coat than with spraying 👍 The doors on my garage are wood and I coated them with Ronseal 5 year woodstain varnish (I think that's what it was called), about 16 years ago and they look almost as good as the day that I did them ... I'd say they are slightly sheltered from the majority of the wind and rain, but whether that has made a difference to the longevity or not I don't know!
Nice one, thanks. I've yet to come across an outdoor oil that doesn't recommend annual refinishing. On that basis I've had positive experience with own-brand stuff from a well-known UK DIY retailer. The REAL trick is remembering to do it every year. That said, I'll be trying this method next, can't imagine why it would fail with proper upkeep. Why do we unthinkingly put our faith and money in brand names, when we are all smart enough to learn how to mix a wax, or an oil etc? Anyway, the footage of the last coat looked great. I'd love to see a six month follow up! Cheers.
Pine would be perfect if that's okay? You could just use a scrap piece if you have any lying around so you're not wasting money :). We have quite a bit of old pine furniture that I want to upcycle to have a light natural finish with brass handles :)
@@jessieparker5208 ok I’ll do that no problem. Will the pine furniture be exposed to daylight from the windows? I’m thinking if I do it I could just pop it on the window ledge or similar
Thank you soo much! Yeah they will be exposed to window light, but not maybe as direct as a window ledge. Maybe you could pop it on table or surface nearby? Thank you again! ☺️
Just watched the previous vid where I left a comment about you missing during the clean up. I see that on this one you did a good clean up job. This probably puts me in the group of "people who are blind" in your books, but it really did look like you failed on the clean up in the previous.
Thanks for your feedback in both videos as I do appreciate peoples opinions, even if I don’t necessarily agree at times. Just wondering if you have managed to catch my latest video looking at various different outdoor finishes as an experiment. Would really appreciate your thoughts and feedback on it if you get time. Best wishes, Leo 😀👍. ruclips.net/video/BGod2nFmljk/видео.htmlsi=fEjnQHOBGsDMIrBv
For me this UV protection thing is a myth in general. I never got the promised result ( I am an educated joiner and wood engineer). Just one example ( high end luxury office interior): Customer wants birds eye maple stained in bright blue. We mention that it might turn green in some years since maple turns from (almost) white to yellow due to the UV exposure. Well yellow + Blue = green. But customer insists so we try our best with using absolutely high end uv protection varnish, the most expensive coating we ever produced. After half a year we must take back the whole office, it had a greenish look but also not consistent. Better use non UV coatings an deal with the color change and you have a much better chance to get consistent look.
You’re not the first person to say to me about UV protection being a myth. Thank you for your comments and knowledge in this field, much appreciated 😀😀
Have only used Osmo for indoor projects so can't comment on its use outside. But I'm with you in application cost. You have stuck with it for two applications and still it's failed so make you right for your comments in the video 👍
Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I don’t have one as I have never used the product. But I do know the weather in the UK and if can wreak havoc with oils so I think you should stick with the 2 to 1 mix and give it a coat or two every year.
That’s exactly what I’ll be doing John. Totally accept there are a huge range of variables that could affect the performance of that oil in the U.K., the weather certainly being one of them. If that is the case though, why are people (including myself) even bothering with Osmo UV oil when we can get similar results at the fraction of the cost
Great video Leo,some times the cheaper option is the best.Boiled linseed oil and turps or turps substitute,and buying it from Huws Gray a good builders merchant there 3 around where I live in Wrexham .I give Osmo a wide birth £70 for 3 ltrs your idea is a lot better, about £4 a ltr. thanks for the advice and thanks for a constructive and brilliant video witch comes with a foil hat . take care mate see you on the next video.
Found this video after experiencing the same issues with Osmo UV-Protection-Oil (420 Clear Satin). Greying patches, black (mouldy?) patches. Very disappointed.
🙂 Nice one Leo. Personally I have only had good results with Osmo BUT this was only with Osmo interior wax oil. I 100% agree it is over priced. And I 100% agree with your findings in your application. For the price you paid i would at very least expect uniformity. I watch with interest how this pans out. Just don't let the haters get under your skin. I know from personal experience how hurtful it can be and even a simple flippant comment has stopped me from making videos for weeks. Good luck Leo. If its any consolation.. I still love your wax and keep banging on about it in my videos 😆😆👍
Cheers Frank, top man😀. It will be interesting to see how this pans out as, at just over £4 a litre, if it just needs spraying once or twice a year then it’s a no brainer for me. I really do hope it works out and will be feeding back in the autumn sometime 😀😀👍👍
Trying to figure out how to waterproof an Osb shed, have resin lying around so found your video on resin for outdoors experiment.. I was surprised osmo performed well. Now I find this video.. I'm really not a fan of this brand. I used one of their interior wax products in White colour, and I found the smell and fumes were a horror! And the finish was just ok. I don't understand why everyone uses this super expensive, smelly product!
Thanks for the comment. The outdoor resin experiment gave me the confidence to go with Osmo UV Oil for my front cladding and it hasn’t worked out at all, very very disappointed. Is the whole of the external part of your shed OSB? I’d maybe consider spraying it with decking oil (like Cuprinol for example) or even use the concoction I mixed up for my front cladding post Osmo which is 2 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part turps substitute 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Thank you for the suggestion, it's kind of what I already started as I had a ronseal decking protector already so decided to use it up. It is a complete OSB3 external, even the roof! And I love the look of osb so after searching around, I've now covered one wall with cromapol clear roof coating. Planning to put it on the roof too. So far I am very impressed with the product, it creates a complete acrylic waterproof barrier, £30 for 5kg. I'm hoping it doesn't need yearly maintenance. The shed will be a bit of an experiment, since every wall and piece of wood will have a different treatment on it! Now I'm debating whether a PVC F trim with some sealant will help seal the osb edges of the roof or just create more problems! hmm
Personally I've used osmo for 10 years now but only mainly in indoor use. Topoil is great oil but for outside I use tikkurila products. Guess they are finnish brand only...
Couldn't agree with you more. Ive used Osmo on hundreds of things over the years and basically if the thing sees hard weather it doesn't last any longer than most products and the price is insane. It feels like buying a designer t-shirt for £150. Your being bent over a barrel.
I totally agree Leo osmo is SCRAP. I don't do a lot of outdoor woodwork these days but used to. I have never really found a good UV stabilizer, osmo is far too expensive. Will be very interesting to see how your linseed oil gets on.keep up the good vids mate.
I'm not a big fan of any Oil especially for exterior, I have tried Boiled Linseed Oil on a Bench that was outside, same failure the wood turned silver within 18 months (even with giving it another coat after about 5 months) Also some people will ask if you checked the 'moisture content' of the wood you are applying it to, did I f*ck! I'm not sure there is a finish that does not need some sort of yearly maintenance in our climate the 4 seasons takes it's toll
Agree with what you’re saying here pal. Begs the question why I went with Osmo UV in the first place when I could have saved quite a bit of cash using alternative methods 👍😀
@@Hand-i-Craft One thing that has certainly delivered for us is Sadolin Superdec. Of course it's a paint rather than a 'finish' but on our old shutters inFrance with only modest preparation it lasted 10 years with the first coats (2) and when I repainted them, again with minimal prep, they looked good as new. My neighbours shutters which were new and used local paint professionally applied are peeling after about 2-3 years. Sadolin is expensive but it does work, easy to use and very durable. The shutters haven't changed size either!
Interesting. I've never had an issue with any osmo product, but I mainly use it on interior cabinetry. I don't really find it that expensive either as it goes so far. The only things I've done in the UV oil are 3 bee hives, specifically because it's a more bee-friendly option compared to other finishes. Been on 3 winters and still sound. I did a cedar clad shower room (don't ask 😂) in osmo top oil with osmo wood protector underneath and that came out amazingly, 18 months and still good. Still, not sure I would do cladding in it. As you've discovered... Something like that I guess needs a more 'nuclear option' 😅
Cheers for the message Pete, as I said in the video lots of variables to factor in, but after it failing twice I just didn’t see the point paying a significant premium that isn’t working 👍
Thanks for your honest review. Not had an issue with OSMO myself and I use it on boats. I always sand with 80 grit for the first coat so it sinks in deep. I then flatted with 120 before applying a further 2 to 3 coats. Great honest review though. Thank you
Oxyclean warm water scrub brush will revive the wood. Darker the colour the better the UV protection. Natural oil wood stain. No need to sand for maintenance coats. Mentholated spirit for dry cleaning after sanding. Shouldn't of used any spirit with linseed oil
@@Hand-i-Craft wizard of wood check him out. I just ordered 2.5 litres of 708 teak natural oil for some previously glossed cladding. I've heat gun stripped and mirka sanded down 80&120 grit. Just stick with the Osmo two thin coats. Decking oil 007 teak will naturally patina grey. Darker the colour the better the UV
I fall in and out of love with Osmo, thinking it must be me who has missed the point! But when my tins are gone I don't think I'll go back. The claims of strength and robustness don't apply to how you'd put it on furniture or guitars, but when rollered on thick on a floor. And after two coats you can't go further to improve it. So in terms of protection it's no better than an cheap oil. But you're right, it is easy to get lured in by the Osmo Hypnosis. 😵
You’re absolutely right pal and I remember reading your comment in the original video. Be interested to hear what you move onto when your Osmo runs out 👍
@@versailleaaron3475 Cheers and I see you’ve had a look at my new experiment video which hopefully will produce some interesting results. I’ve recently done a channel vlog which has an update about the Sikkens finish 👍👍
Thank you for saving me a lot of time and money. I live in Arizona and the heat/UV rays here really are extreme. If a product doesn't 1,000,000% work in other locations, it definitely will not work here. Much blessings to you for this video. ❤
@Hand-i-Craft Thank you! I'd appreciate any advice. It's to penetrate!seal a slate floor that gets a ton of Arizona sunlight even though it's indoors. In the past, I have tried linseed and tung oils but they both eventually failed. I am now pondering Cutek Extreme. Any thoughts you have on this would be so appreciated.
@@michellechalmers8753 I know this might sound a cop out from me but my best advice Michelle would be to seek advice from an expert local to you. My main reason for saying this is the type of weather you experience is fundamentally different to what we get here. I’ve visited the west coast of Canada and the USA and the heat at times there is brutal for sustained periods. That is something we simply don’t experience here, our main enemy in my part of the U.K is rain!
Osmo uv protection oil used to be a brilliant product, but it’s totally useless now. Refinished my oak porch after 5 years life from original Osmo Uv protection oil in 2023. After 8 months it failed, black and grey on window ledges AND vertical surfaces patchy as hell. Took me 6 weeks to rub it all down and use another product. Osmo changed the formula and didn’t make any statements about this, not professional at all, so I jog on with a painful lesson and they’ll lose another customer 🤷♂️
How so pal? You’d be hard pressed to find me complaining about anything on my channel, so when I do there must be an honest and valid reason behind it🤷♂️
Agree you never complain,thats why im partly saying it.Im sure good reasons as well and you can of course, who am i😁 But my experience is that it does not work well for channels specially when its about products that ask a lot of precise use as Osmo ( or a good Festool). But then im not a RUclips adviseer, only some Asian channels🫣😬🫶🏻 Hope it gets you comments and likes and good advice Leo as thats also important for your channel.👏🏻👍🏻
@@xw6968 All good point mate and thanks for the feedback. I think there is a bigger picture to using Osmo externally in the U.K. with our ‘unique’ climate, particularly in the north. I genuinely don’t think it is up to the job and there are suitable alternatives at a fraction of the cost. Really interesting reading other folks experiences as well 😀😀👍👍
I guess I got caught up in the hype Ged with the Osmo. For the front cladding I’d spent a small fortune on it and wanted a good finish to preserve and maintain the wood. You could imagine my level of dissatisfaction when problems started to occur and then it happened again. I’m hopeful my new concoction will work better🤞😀👍
Another great video Leo. Glad you say what you mean. Too much wokery these days. You and Piers Morgan have the right attitude say it as it is. Also noticed some really really nice pieces of slab wood in the background. Doesn’t look cheap either.
Opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one and some people are more opinionated than others. Your experience of a product is just that. YOUR experience. If a product doesn't work for you then that's all that matters. I've never used Osmo products as they are way too expensive and there are always cheaper alternatives. If you have to reapply every year then it is not good value for money.
Never had a problem with Osmo but interested to see the problems you've had and thanks for bringing them to light 🤔
As I said in the video Derek, there are loads of variables that make the process of wood finishing (particularly outdoors) unique. Case of one bitten twice shy with me in this instance pal 👍
I must admit my experience with Osmo clear satin 420 has been good. Our cabin was built in Sept 2023, I applied two coats of oil then on the cedar clad. Move on one year and there were signs of greying on the bottom cladding that sit on the composite decking. I half expected this, as it's closer to rain splash back etc.
Anyway, over the year the cedar in general had faded to a lighter colour which I actually prefer than the red colour the cedar originally came in. I applied two more coats last weekend and I'm really pleased with the finish, very even and some of the redness has come back but no where near to what was originally supplied. I only lightly sanded the wood before application.
My issue now is that I have a 3 litre tin and only used about 500ml! Am I ok to keep that under the stairs for another year??
Cheers for sharing your experiences Ben👍. Remainder should be fine for future use, just make sure the lid is tightly sealed 😀👍
I will add my two cents to this, as you said, so many variables. I used Osmo UV Protecton Extra on a freshly built garden office 2 years ago and the finish was lovely and its been incredibly easy to maintain. But, I also used it on my new shed last year and 14 months later, it looks like utter pish which has silvered and faded badly. I get that things can be variable with wood, weather and other out of control situations, but for the price I'd at least expect a more forgiving product which performs better than it does. The price is very high for something that seems entirely unpredicatible in terms of performance. So I agree with you entirely!
Thanks for the comment and taking the time to share your experiences, much appreciated! Best wishes, Leo
Are they both the same type of wood?
It was applied to my oak garden room here in the North of England. Looked fine for a year but know we have black spots and silvering. The osmo wood reviver gel is garbage on black spots and silvering. What is the best way to remove the black mould spots? I have a feeling I know but I was hoping there would be an easy way. Many thanks.
Sorry to hear about your experience and sadly I think your feeling about rectifying it is the only option, best get the sander out 😞
I have similar issues with OSMO on exterior timber, I have sanded back and re-treated with OSMO but the issues have come back. I will use a different product in future. The timber is south facing and gets all the bad weather the English climate can throw at it. The OSMO treated timber looked great for a couple of months but is now covered in black stains so will need to be re-sanded and re-treated. Thanks Leo for sharing your findings.
Cheers Ian for the comment. I think the comments here have pointed out there do appear to be issues with it in particular with the British climate. Not worth the premium price in my humble opinion 😀👍
Same issue here, did you have to treat the wood with anything before coating? What did you end up using?
About 40 years ago I was tasked with building platforms to be positioned alongside the production line at Fords of Dagenham the cladding we applied for the decking was the same timber you have used. The reason this was chosen was because it was impervious to oil penetration! We called it bastard teak (Kerung) from memory I do not think we were asked to apply a finish, however it was for indoor use. When you first mentioned using this timber you said it had been used for lorry floors, similar use to the decking platforms that I built. Probably best left to naturalise.
Great story pal. I think the method I’ve just used will be better and if annual upkeep is just sprayed once or twice a year then I’m happy with that 😀👍
They say let new wood weather a while before applying anything
@@Hand-i-Craft Open your mind.
I’m really interested to see how this works out. My initial thought is the linseed alone isn’t going to eliminate the greying. It
Will lack the UV filters in other formulations. But I agree that osmo is pricey. I’ve tried several alternatives and each has a downside to its advantage. Anyway thanks for sharing.
Cheers Karl. As I said in the video it’s consistency I’m after, if it all ends up silvering then I’m ok with that. But spending a considerable amount expecting consistency and getting nowhere near it was very disappointing
Which alternatives and what downsides?
@@Nick-r9zalternatives include Armoirtech, Barrettine and Cuprinol. Downsides generally include frequency of reapplication and the degree to which the wood is ambers. Also, some oils are a pain to apply to vertical surfaces. The advantages generally is consistency of finish when reapplying annually. I’ve found natural Cuprinol UV Decking oil to be a good all round product which doesn’t mind a year or two between redcoats and is easy to apply with a nice colour on softwood cladding.
My can or Osmos says to roll or brush on. Does not mention spraying.
@@jsdaniel105 I never sprayed the Osmo, used a brush both times. The spray gun here was the finish I was using to replace the Osmo
Found this v interesting three years ago I installed cedar cladding - probably about 30 sq metres and immediately finished with OSMO - the next year it was still looking great in the summer but a little faded so I coated again with OSMO UV protection oil, and over the winter the cedar now has black staining consistently over most of the cladding. It looks terrible and today I started to sand it back - and I’m having to cut back probably 4 coats of dried OSMO to get rid of the black marks - what an effort completing this is going to be!! It appears the black marking has penetrated all coats !!
So I can empathise with the OP - I put last years coat on in good weather with no inclement weather in the days after. I can only conclude that OSMO as a product has either changed formula, or it’s an inconsistent product that can’t be trusted.
I’m not looking forward to having to sand all of this back and will NOT be taking the OSMO risk again 😢
Thanks for the comment Mike and also sharing your experiences. Yes sanding back is a nightmare but needs to be done properly. I don’t know if you have caught my latest video on the channel looking at different types of outdoor finishes?
I am so grateful for this video. I need to treat my new Yellow Balou deck. What would you recommend? Would the turps and linseed work? 🙏🏼
Hi..where did you get that tower platform from please ??
@@waynekerrr9027 I picked it up from Aldi of all places!
How did the boiled linseed oil hold up?
About the same as the Osmo Michael. I’ve set up quite a bit experiment testing different finishes on the front of my workshop. Recent video on my channel if you’d like to check it out 👍
@Hand-i-Craft I've got pretty big area of batten fence to treat so was looking at my best options. Money wise also as osmo is coming in pretty expensive. I've watched your recent video of the difference products you've applied. I'll keep an eye out for how it turns out.
What could i use on osb 3 board , it's being used for flooring that will be in a Catering van
I’d say something like a polyurethane varnish would be a good idea. There are specific floor varnishes available but my understanding is polyurethane ones are the most durable 👍
@@Hand-i-CraftThanks for the tip
@@Military872 I`m a floorlayer mate.......if it`s catering, (grease etc), you would need a vinyl safety floor imho.......
Interesting.... I've used Osmo Polyx oil on interior floors, and their exterior One Coat Only HS Plus, both with great success. The coverage on the latter was not great- I had to use a lot, and two coats, but the color (ebony- a true black), hasn't shown any fading in more than two years. (Applied on freshly milled and planed cedar). I wonder if it has to do with it's having more pigment that the transparent variety you demonstrated. I have a can of their decking oil in thermowood, which is in between what you applied and the ebony I used. I'm really hoping it doesn't fail. One thing I've taken away from your video is to avoid their transparent oil. Of course, all of these vary slightly in formulation- which could also be a factor. Our climates are fairly similar. Thanks for the honest review!
Thanks for the comments and sharing your positive experiences with Osmo. There are so many variables as to why a product can ‘fail’, but for it to happen twice for me means I’ll be giving it a miss from now onwards 👍👍
I had a total refurb on my house exterior and had the front and side top half clad in Canadian red cedar and the bottom half rendered which looked fabulous. The red cedar came pre finished with a water based uv varnish at a cost of 4k fitted. 4 years on and the varnish is fading and peeling in places and the cedar starting the greying process in patches. Wood Finishes Direct have advised me that I have to strip the varnish off with paint stripper (Owatrol), wash it all down and then use a wood brightener (Owatrol Net- Trol), sand it all down and then use Osmo.
All of this is a massive, time consuming expensive undertaking with the added expense of scaffolding. I now realise what massive mistake I made having the cedar cladding in the first place and should have gone with the full render or used composite boards instead of cedar.
My current dilemma is, should i undertake Wood Finishes Direct advice which sounds correct to me (the downside of this is I will have to re finish every 1-2 years including scaffolding) or paint the cedar with a high performance paint which some claim can last up to 10 years or rip the whole lot off and use composite boards or render?
It would seem that I have got myself into a right dilemma which is hugely expensive and time consuming either way. Any advice?
Hello Stephen, thanks for the message and apologies for such a late reply. No idea why but your message went into my possible Spam folder so I’ve only just seen it. Personally if I was in your shoes I’d strip the finish off and then just leave it. Yes it will naturally grey but if it’s uniform across the whole surface area it’ll look great and will last (I think) for around 25-30 years. I’d much rather do that than paint it which personally I think wouldn’t look nice.
As I’ve found out, any kind of wood treatment to try and retain its original colour will require some form of regular maintenance and this is difficult for you for reasons mentioned like scaffolding etc. If I were in your shoes pal, I’d strip it back and l let nature take its course 👍
We had a lovely red cedar hut for our youth group. After 30 years of it weathering fine, they painted it with a thick dark brown paint. Looks awful now it's cracked and peeled in places
Do not use Osmo outside you will sure regret it
@@BigAds. why?
Paint it with the best exterior paint you can find. Products are cheap, time is expensive. Should last 10-15 years.
With the exception of deck oil (Mannings) I have yet to find an exterior wood finish that doesn't suffer badly in our damp climate. Osmo interior for me is a great product but I tried Osmo exterior UV protection on an oak garden bench and it went patchy grey with black mould after one winter. I have since sanded it, applied a wood preservative followed by deck oil, will be interesting to see how it does. I have also used Owatrol Textrol HES Clear on red cedar of a garden room. If you think Osmo is expensive, the Textrol HES was over £200 for 5 litres. I must be a fool but it was recommended by a well known garden room builder and those that have built their own garden rooms. Mine looked terrible after one winter, grey with black spots all over it. Only areas not subject to moisture were good. I have sanded it back and applied Barrantine wood preserver. I am now thinking what I should put on top of that, possible deck oil which has worked great on my decks and fences. Note that I always follow the manufacturers instructions and I always check the wood moisture content before applying a finish.
Cheers for the comments here Steve, really useful to hear other folks experiences with different products, both positive and negative 👍👍
@petra Thanks for the advice, I will definitely research Salolin. I am thinking of coating several samples of wood with various products and leaving them out all winter to see what does best. I like an experiment. 😊
I used the osmo on a new shed and some raised sleeper beds 3 years ago and the shed still looks like the day I applied it but the sleepers have flaked and have black patches I think it’s down to moisture content of the timber at time of application.
The moisture in the timber was spot on when I applied it pal (less than 12%). I think the climate here doesn’t help and the high sap content of the wood, kind of makes the idea of forking out a small fortune on a ‘premium’ finish a waste of time 🤷♂️
I used Osmo on our oak shutters in France.
After 10 years and one refresh without sanding the finish is still pretty good. The problem has been that the shutters do change width quite a lot as the weather changes (summer to winter). They swelled so much I couldn't close them and then after reducing the width on one side so they closed (retreating with Osmo) after a couple of years I had to build up one side again to allow the locks to engage.
Last year they blew open in a storm so I have now fitted an extra bolt inside which is tiresome as I can only open them from inside when it's used. It does work - so far - though.
I don't know how I could have avoided this although I suspect that when they were made a bit more cleanse should have been provided in the grooves on the stiles to allow the T&G boards to expand sideways a bit more.
In the last video I did Mike, there were a few comments from folk who used Osmo for years but have moved away from it in recent times, maybe not quite what it once was or the competition had caught up and overtook them 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Use Impra ( Clear)
Comes in two tins one is the undercoat ( called color) the other is the top coat ( elan) . Theres a good video on how to apply but two coats of each in short.
I have also seen Osmo fail to protect oak exteanal window lintels.
Thanks for the tip 👍👍
The cladding only received finish on the side surface right? So maybe moisture and rain water is seeping in from the gaps between the strips and get trapped by the side finish and started micro rotting
No, all sides were treated 👍👍
Great video and advice. As an enthusiastic amateur, i also dont mind the high initial cost if you get a longer lasting product, and is slightly forgiving for amateur techniques. However, high cost without these benefits doesn't seem justified.
Thanks for the kind feedback. In my humble opinion the Osmo just isn’t worth the money as it doesn’t deliver any additional benefits at the much higher price point it to finishes at a fraction of the cost 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft such as?
I used OSMO on my Green Oak Frame exterior... Nice finish worked well. I used the same on kiln dried oak window frames, and they went black in areas (which is usually a reaction with ferrus materials or Iron dust) very odd - I had used Pewter, Brass and Stainless to stop that horrid Black effect you get on Oak. Just for the sake of disclosure - I did my interior of the Green Oak with Liberon Wax rubbed it with a hard bristle brush and it was EPIC! So I would advise anyone doing internals consider a nice wax brushed finish.
Thank you for sharing your experiences here with Osmo. I do believe plenty of folk take the time to read through the comments section so it is nice to get a variety of experiences and opinions 👍
Hi. Interesting vid. I was just searching for OSMO product as I was advised to use it on my garden cabin. Desperately needs something. Cuprinol? However, I want to keep the natural wood look rather than a colour. Whatever I use it looks like I have to apply product every 12 months. I have silver and black spots. Would it be best to sand this back first?
Mine was the same issue, wanting to keep the natural wood finish. I think the reality is you can’t really stop the silvering, but if it happens uniformly then that is much better than patchy issues like I had with the Osmo. The mixture I used instead of Osmo is working really well, it will need yearly maintenance and is a fraction of the cost of Osmo👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Thanks for the reply. May I ask about the mixture you are using? I might give that a go. Osmo is £80 for 2.5L. Two local trades recommended it.
@@mannixfleming7838 The mix I’m using is 2 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part turps (I used turps sub, much cheaper).
@@Hand-i-Craft If I was to boil Linseed oil I would have to do that on the job on the kitchen. Not sure that will go down well in the house haha. My cabin is 6M x 4M so might need a fair few litres mix of it.😃
@@mannixfleming7838oh my …
No.. what you do is you buy it already boiled.
Like Home depot
Good or bad I don't know but hats off to this guy doing the job with one hand!!
Thank you 😀👍
Thanks for this video, I had Osmo put on my outdoor office last July and already faded on the top half of my cladding so I'm not impressed.
Have to say, especially considering the price, I was really disappointed with the performance of it 👍
I think that you’re video title is misleading. Slightly. The results depends on the type of wood the absorption. The amount of sunlight it’s exposed to. I made house signs out of spruce they are exposed to the sun and rain and are holding up well. Our timber clad extension has a few areas that are greying and need retreating but I did look at linseed oil. Difficult to obtain pure linseed in large quantities and is it any better. I will retreat the areas in question and see if it’s better next year. Just my thoughts.
Cheers for the message, but I have to say I don’t think the title is misleading. I’m not one for clickbait, but I think calling out that this product is overpriced and overrated is balanced considering my experiences and also the cheaper alternatives 😀😀👍👍
Mightn’t you have applied a conditioner first to get a more even abstention of the oil?
It’s a good point you make, but isn’t that adding even further expense to an already very expensive product? 🤷♂️
One black mark against the turps/linseed is that it appears to have totally imobilized that dog at the end of the shed.
The size of the mutts pupils suggest they’ve developed quite a fondness for turps vapor
😳😳😂😂😂😂😂😂
Timmersol Exterior Timber Stabiliser is a great (and much cheaper) alternative to Osmo UV Oil. It's full of oil and wax and holds up really well, especially for log cabins which suffer from more timber movement issues than any other product. It's nano porous so still allows moisture to ingress and egress, but at a much slower rate than a micro porous wood oil, preventing those huge swings in timber movement.
Thanks Pete, may I ask where did you get it from? Cheers, Leo 👍😀
Hope the new finish works better Leo, as you said, you pay a premium price you expect it to last and to degrade consistently with time.
I’ve had a similar experience with Ronseal Fencelife Plus which is supposed to last 5 years. I sprayed our fence panels with it, wire brushed first and then 3 coats each side. The following year it was flaking off in places so I repainted it all again with a brush and now this year it’s again flaking off. I complained to Ronseal and they gave me some vouchers for replacement products but when I’ve finished it up I’ll be replacing the fence with UV resistant plastic panels as I can’t face painting the fence every year with what is supposed to be a 5 year product.
Exactly Geoffrey, if a product doesn’t live up to its claimed purpose, then what is the point🤷♂️. The composite panels sound like a good idea, no need to worry about maintenance then 👍👍
It was the no maintenance that's my primary reason for looking at composite. But ugh the cost
i think Osmo is hard to beat indoors, not overly keen outdoor, i had a similar issue on a garden bench i think that’s Iroko not sure if it suits certain woods (oak) and not others
Cheers Dave, lots of folk swear by the indoor PolyX stuff, but it appears it isn’t just you and I who aren’t a massive fan of the outdoor products 🤷♂️
Do a test piece of any small piece of wood... with just one coat of titebond 3. Leave it outside forever. It becomes a rich golden caramel color and is seemingly indestructible.
I remember this comment from you pal last time. My only concern was how to apply this and the consistency across the whole area which is quite substantial. You’re absolutely right though and I will try it on a piece to compare results 😀😀👍👍
first time on site and I see what you mean about the discoloration in the cladding and I wonder if the base problem isn't you or the product, but something with the wood itself, that the oil or something else in the osmo. Personally I'm not sure I'd use Osmo for outdoor projects
Thanks Phillip, I think it’s a combination of factors including the wood and the climate up here in the North West of England. I’m really interested to see how my new homemade mixture works out as, at a fraction of the cost of Osmo, I’d be more than happy to spray it once or twice a year to keep on top of it 👍
Used OSMO clear on my western red cedar very disappointing with it
Sadly I don’t think you’re the only one pal
Not really had any issues with Osmo Oil apart from it being messy to use. It is very expensive but it has worked great for my garden room and garden hut.
Thank you for sharing your experiences using Osmo 😀👍
I was considering using this on some old oak sleepers I have in the garden. Good to know!
Personally I wouldn’t bother, much cheaper (better) alternatives 😀😀👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft such as?
Why haven't you spoken to osmo they are really helpful, I have many times. There is a osmo product called base coat for exterior wood you apply before the oil to stop mildew and black spot then the oil to seal. Also spraying it on out side in the wind for an oil its probably gone on far to thin. There is a specific amount per mtr for oils so best brushed or rolled on to soak in then wipe off if necessary. I have used it on lots of exterior wood no problems. I hope this helps.
I tried Stephen, twice, and received no reply to my concerns. When you see me spraying on the wood, that isn’t Osmo, that’s the mix I’m trying out instead of Osmo👍👍. Cheers for the message though and thanks for sharing your positive experiences with the product 😀👍
Great video Leo and nice to see an honest appraisal of the product. There are too many people out there who cannot see sense, even when it hits them in the face. Ignore the “negative Nellys” - they are not worth the air time!👍🏻👌🏻
Thanks Kevin. I was very undecided about making this video, but I’ve always prided myself on being honest. Folk would be hard pressed to find me being negative about stuff on my channel so when I do it’s done with good reason. Cheers for the comment pal 😀😀👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft you are one of the most positive channels I watch. You made the right decision. People can choose to value your experience or make a bad choice. Keep up the great work - the new coating looks great by the way.👍🏻
A superb video, Leo. So many Ads and product endorsements sing the praises of everything [such is the skullduggery of advertising]. Your piece here is what is sadly lacking in the commercial world. You are honest, you allow for; *other's experiences may vary; etc but the what makes it so vital is that personal experience counts for so much. They say, Recommendation outstrips Advertising and thats what your video is all about. I don't think you're out of order OR talking out-yer-A, I think you're on the money [and thats what its all about -for so many]. This is surely one of the most useful aspects of RUclips etc. Keep up the rants, your experience is the most valid part of any experience. Honest debate should not have to sink to argument and abuse - this is a common problem these days, everywhere - Shame on them!
p.s. I remember when outdoors meant...."just slap a coat of kreosote on it!". Your cladding looks beautiful now. Long may it reign [not rain].
Cheers Keith and this comment does really mean a lot. I very nearly didn’t do this video for a variety of reasons, but you’re right in the sense there doesn’t appear to be enough honesty, particularly (for whatever reason) with Osmo products🤷♂️.
Btw will you be at makers central next weekend?
@@negotiableaffections 😂😂😂I can still smell the creasote from when my old fella used to paint the fences forty years ago!
@@Hand-i-Craft sadly can't make it this year but its a fantastic show, enjoy.
@@Hand-i-Craft and the sticky hands from climbing said fence too soon! yuch!
I was about to comment on the older video you have up regarding Osmo UV Protection Oil until I saw this follow up!
Unfortunately, I have had the same experience with the product as you. I’m out in north-central California where it gets pretty dang hot in the summers and decently wet in the winter (Winter 2022 was epic [wet] for the whole state).
I’ve got a long redwood bench that sits out in front of the house; thought I sanded well and then gave it a few coats of Osmo UV oil. It applied great and the finish really brought out the beautiful tones of the redwood. I was pretty happy for the remainder of the Summer and Fall.
Winter hit and as I mentioned, it was an unusually wet winter for us out here. I’ve got a big sycamore that dumped leaves on the bench as well.
As soon as the weather started warming up, I tried to clean up the bench and pressure wash it, and I just noticed all kinds of areas of the redwood that were darkening and spotty mildew (mold?). I was pretty disappointed like you, considering Osmo UV oil isn’t cheap.
Could I have sanded better and could I have misapplied the product? Absolutely. Regardless, I’m out of Osmo UV oil and the stuff that I did put on, didn’t hold up. I’m going to try a product by Duckback and we’ll see what that does. Anyways, just passing along a shared experience. Take care.
Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences here. Very good of you and much appreciated, best wishes, Leo 😀👍
I won't use Osmo UV again, either.
I made a planter for my daughter, and finidhed it in Osmo UV. It was installed, in a sheltered position in the Spring. By Autumn, it looked awful. Black streaks and patches everywhere.
Not just me then Clive 😞
Agree totally. Used OSMO a few times now and always the same result regardless of how I apply it. Always fails and becomes spotchy within 8 months.
On a side note, what’s the platform you were using?
Thanks Andrew. The platform I picked up from Aldi 😀😀👍👍
Hmmm..... Live in northern Wisconsin. Had no issues. Maybe it's not the best match given your environment
Thanks for the message. Yes as I said in the video it could be the conditions where I live, but in the comments there are quite a lot of similar experiences 🤷♂️👍
really interesting to see if this holds up.
Similar i used Osmo on my fence and to be honest 12 months later it looks really bad. I am going have to sand it all too. Feels like Omso is way over priced for what it offers.
Thanks Will, I’ll keep the process updated in my social media. I have to say I’m really disappointed with the Osmo experience
IS IT CLEAR FINISH. WOULD IT BE SUITABLE FOR DECKING ?. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
I’ll try my best pal. No, not suitable for decking at all
Spraying looks a lot easier than sanding. Hopefully it won't need sanding when you redo it as long as it's not left too long.
If the upkeep now Mike is spraying one or twice a year then I’m happy with that. It looks great again now 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft It certainly looks a lot better than it did with Osmo and the flatter finish is nicer.
I'm a joiner. I've only used it once on exterior oak door I built. 1 year and it was failing and where it had failed the wood had gone black so the whole job looked shocking. Never again.
Interesting to hear pal, seems I’m not the only one who has had issues 👍
Doesn't matter how others have found OSMO, you're talking about your experience ... others can either listen to your experience or ignore it and try it themselves ... in your case it didn't give the protection you thought it would and therefore wasn't the solution for you!! I'd prefer to use the brush for an external finish as it gives a far thicker coat than with spraying 👍
The doors on my garage are wood and I coated them with Ronseal 5 year woodstain varnish (I think that's what it was called), about 16 years ago and they look almost as good as the day that I did them ... I'd say they are slightly sheltered from the majority of the wind and rain, but whether that has made a difference to the longevity or not I don't know!
Cheers Barry and thanks for sharing your positive experiences with Ronseal, great for folk reading these comments looking for ideas and suggestions 👍👍
Ive had a similar fail with Osmo. Try Impra ( Color then Elan) superb stuff lasts much better.
Nice one, thanks. I've yet to come across an outdoor oil that doesn't recommend annual refinishing. On that basis I've had positive experience with own-brand stuff from a well-known UK DIY retailer. The REAL trick is remembering to do it every year. That said, I'll be trying this method next, can't imagine why it would fail with proper upkeep. Why do we unthinkingly put our faith and money in brand names, when we are all smart enough to learn how to mix a wax, or an oil etc? Anyway, the footage of the last coat looked great. I'd love to see a six month follow up! Cheers.
Cheers for the comment pal. Yes I’ll do a follow up maybe in the autumn and feedback my experiences with the new coating 👍😀
Can you do a test of the osmo uv on an interior bit of wood please!! :) xo
I do have some Osmo UV left. I could mock up a simple test, what type of wood?
Pine would be perfect if that's okay? You could just use a scrap piece if you have any lying around so you're not wasting money :). We have quite a bit of old pine furniture that I want to upcycle to have a light natural finish with brass handles :)
@@jessieparker5208 ok I’ll do that no problem. Will the pine furniture be exposed to daylight from the windows? I’m thinking if I do it I could just pop it on the window ledge or similar
Thank you soo much! Yeah they will be exposed to window light, but not maybe as direct as a window ledge. Maybe you could pop it on table or surface nearby? Thank you again! ☺️
Just watched the previous vid where I left a comment about you missing during the clean up. I see that on this one you did a good clean up job. This probably puts me in the group of "people who are blind" in your books, but it really did look like you failed on the clean up in the previous.
Thanks for your feedback in both videos as I do appreciate peoples opinions, even if I don’t necessarily agree at times. Just wondering if you have managed to catch my latest video looking at various different outdoor finishes as an experiment. Would really appreciate your thoughts and feedback on it if you get time. Best wishes, Leo 😀👍. ruclips.net/video/BGod2nFmljk/видео.htmlsi=fEjnQHOBGsDMIrBv
For me this UV protection thing is a myth in general. I never got the promised result ( I am an educated joiner and wood engineer). Just one example ( high end luxury office interior): Customer wants birds eye maple stained in bright blue. We mention that it might turn green in some years since maple turns from (almost) white to yellow due to the UV exposure. Well yellow + Blue = green. But customer insists so we try our best with using absolutely high end uv protection varnish, the most expensive coating we ever produced. After half a year we must take back the whole office, it had a greenish look but also not consistent. Better use non UV coatings an deal with the color change and you have a much better chance to get consistent look.
You’re not the first person to say to me about UV protection being a myth. Thank you for your comments and knowledge in this field, much appreciated 😀😀
How's it looking 10 months on? Same as with the Osmo? I'd be ok with that using a much cheaper product.
Spot on this pal, it’s the same results as the Osmo as in it’s in need of an annual maintenance, but literally at a fraction of the cost 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Thanks mate. Just sanding down my cedar fence to re-treat as I had the same issues. 👍🏻
Have only used Osmo for indoor projects so can't comment on its use outside. But I'm with you in application cost. You have stuck with it for two applications and still it's failed so make you right for your comments in the video 👍
Thanks Darren, much appreciated pal 😀👍
Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I don’t have one as I have never used the product. But I do know the weather in the UK and if can wreak havoc with oils so I think you should stick with the 2 to 1 mix and give it a coat or two every year.
That’s exactly what I’ll be doing John. Totally accept there are a huge range of variables that could affect the performance of that oil in the U.K., the weather certainly being one of them. If that is the case though, why are people (including myself) even bothering with Osmo UV oil when we can get similar results at the fraction of the cost
If made from a recent purchase of foil, it is aluminum alloy foil, not tin. The hats don't work anymore ;-)
🤔😂👍
Great video Leo,some times the cheaper option is the best.Boiled linseed oil and turps or turps substitute,and buying it from Huws Gray a good builders merchant there 3 around where I live in Wrexham .I give Osmo a wide birth £70 for 3 ltrs your idea is a lot better, about £4 a ltr. thanks for the advice and thanks for a constructive and brilliant video witch comes with a foil hat . take care mate see you on the next video.
Cheers Shaun, really appreciate the feedback pal 😀😀👍👍
Found this video after experiencing the same issues with Osmo UV-Protection-Oil (420 Clear Satin). Greying patches, black (mouldy?) patches. Very disappointed.
Sorry to hear about your experience with this product Andrew, but it appears yours and my disappointment aren’t isolated cases 🤷♂️
🙂 Nice one Leo. Personally I have only had good results with Osmo BUT this was only with Osmo interior wax oil. I 100% agree it is over priced. And I 100% agree with your findings in your application. For the price you paid i would at very least expect uniformity. I watch with interest how this pans out. Just don't let the haters get under your skin. I know from personal experience how hurtful it can be and even a simple flippant comment has stopped me from making videos for weeks. Good luck Leo. If its any consolation.. I still love your wax and keep banging on about it in my videos 😆😆👍
Cheers Frank, top man😀. It will be interesting to see how this pans out as, at just over £4 a litre, if it just needs spraying once or twice a year then it’s a no brainer for me. I really do hope it works out and will be feeding back in the autumn sometime 😀😀👍👍
Trying to figure out how to waterproof an Osb shed, have resin lying around so found your video on resin for outdoors experiment.. I was surprised osmo performed well. Now I find this video.. I'm really not a fan of this brand. I used one of their interior wax products in White colour, and I found the smell and fumes were a horror! And the finish was just ok. I don't understand why everyone uses this super expensive, smelly product!
Thanks for the comment. The outdoor resin experiment gave me the confidence to go with Osmo UV Oil for my front cladding and it hasn’t worked out at all, very very disappointed. Is the whole of the external part of your shed OSB? I’d maybe consider spraying it with decking oil (like Cuprinol for example) or even use the concoction I mixed up for my front cladding post Osmo which is 2 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part turps substitute 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Thank you for the suggestion, it's kind of what I already started as I had a ronseal decking protector already so decided to use it up. It is a complete OSB3 external, even the roof! And I love the look of osb so after searching around, I've now covered one wall with cromapol clear roof coating. Planning to put it on the roof too. So far I am very impressed with the product, it creates a complete acrylic waterproof barrier, £30 for 5kg. I'm hoping it doesn't need yearly maintenance. The shed will be a bit of an experiment, since every wall and piece of wood will have a different treatment on it! Now I'm debating whether a PVC F trim with some sealant will help seal the osb edges of the roof or just create more problems! hmm
Hi Leo. You won't beat A C Lacquer. No matter what. Cheers Tony
Thanks Tony, will look into that in the future 😀👍
Personally I've used osmo for 10 years now but only mainly in indoor use. Topoil is great oil but for outside I use tikkurila products. Guess they are finnish brand only...
Interesting, thanks for the comment 😀😀👍👍
Couldn't agree with you more. Ive used Osmo on hundreds of things over the years and basically if the thing sees hard weather it doesn't last any longer than most products and the price is insane.
It feels like buying a designer t-shirt for £150. Your being bent over a barrel.
Sadly I have to agree totally with what you’ve said here pal👍
I have been in renovations in homes and big commercial jobs for over 30 years. Osmo let me down in the same way and won’t use it again.
Thanks Mark, interesting to hear other peoples experiences of the product 👍👍
I totally agree Leo osmo is SCRAP. I don't do a lot of outdoor woodwork these days but used to. I have never really found a good UV stabilizer, osmo is far too expensive. Will be very interesting to see how your linseed oil gets on.keep up the good vids mate.
Thanks David, will keep it updated and see what happens 🤔😀👍
Why didn't you paint it?
I wanted to try and keep it as natural as possible pal 👍👍
Try boat shellac Graham G
My experience with Osmo isn’t great also. Thumbs up for you.
Thank you 😀😀👍👍
I'm not a big fan of any Oil especially for exterior, I have tried Boiled Linseed Oil on a Bench that was outside, same failure the wood turned silver within 18 months (even with giving it another coat after about 5 months) Also some people will ask if you checked the 'moisture content' of the wood you are applying it to, did I f*ck! I'm not sure there is a finish that does not need some sort of yearly maintenance in our climate the 4 seasons takes it's toll
Agree with what you’re saying here pal. Begs the question why I went with Osmo UV in the first place when I could have saved quite a bit of cash using alternative methods 👍😀
@@Hand-i-Craft One thing that has certainly delivered for us is Sadolin Superdec. Of course it's a paint rather than a 'finish' but on our old shutters inFrance with only modest preparation it lasted 10 years with the first coats (2) and when I repainted them, again with minimal prep, they looked good as new. My neighbours shutters which were new and used local paint professionally applied are peeling after about 2-3 years. Sadolin is expensive but it does work, easy to use and very durable. The shutters haven't changed size either!
Interesting. I've never had an issue with any osmo product, but I mainly use it on interior cabinetry. I don't really find it that expensive either as it goes so far. The only things I've done in the UV oil are 3 bee hives, specifically because it's a more bee-friendly option compared to other finishes. Been on 3 winters and still sound.
I did a cedar clad shower room (don't ask 😂) in osmo top oil with osmo wood protector underneath and that came out amazingly, 18 months and still good.
Still, not sure I would do cladding in it. As you've discovered... Something like that I guess needs a more 'nuclear option' 😅
Cheers for the message Pete, as I said in the video lots of variables to factor in, but after it failing twice I just didn’t see the point paying a significant premium that isn’t working 👍
Your sprayer is more like a mister. Apply Osmo with a stain pad. This enables deep penetration and no waste.
I used a brush when applying the Osmo. The spray gun was used for applying the boiled linseed oil mixture
Thanks for your honest review. Not had an issue with OSMO myself and I use it on boats. I always sand with 80 grit for the first coat so it sinks in deep. I then flatted with 120 before applying a further 2 to 3 coats.
Great honest review though. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback Andrew and also sharing your application experiences 👍👍
The proof is in the pudding and I trust your judgement. Great video, keep them coming.
Cheers Tommy 😀😀👍👍
Oxyclean warm water scrub brush will revive the wood. Darker the colour the better the UV protection. Natural oil wood stain. No need to sand for maintenance coats. Mentholated spirit for dry cleaning after sanding. Shouldn't of used any spirit with linseed oil
It was boiled linseed oil, does that make any difference? Thanks for the tips btw👍
@@Hand-i-Craft wizard of wood check him out. I just ordered 2.5 litres of 708 teak natural oil for some previously glossed cladding. I've heat gun stripped and mirka sanded down 80&120 grit. Just stick with the Osmo two thin coats. Decking oil 007 teak will naturally patina grey. Darker the colour the better the UV
@@Hand-i-Craft just sand it once to a good standard. Meth wipe. Two thin coats. One for maintenance
It's always the right thing to speak your mind
You’re certainly right pal 👍👍
👍👍👍Thank you.
Cheers Pete 👍👍😀😀
I was recommended Osmo for all woodwork outside. Not impressed either.
Especially considering the price point 👍
I fall in and out of love with Osmo, thinking it must be me who has missed the point! But when my tins are gone I don't think I'll go back. The claims of strength and robustness don't apply to how you'd put it on furniture or guitars, but when rollered on thick on a floor. And after two coats you can't go further to improve it. So in terms of protection it's no better than an cheap oil.
But you're right, it is easy to get lured in by the Osmo Hypnosis. 😵
You’re absolutely right pal and I remember reading your comment in the original video. Be interested to hear what you move onto when your Osmo runs out 👍
King Leo has spoken! 👑👑👑👑👑
😂😂😂👍👍👍
Brilliant video cant wait to see the results one year later
@@versailleaaron3475 Cheers and I see you’ve had a look at my new experiment video which hopefully will produce some interesting results. I’ve recently done a channel vlog which has an update about the Sikkens finish 👍👍
This looks like African ipe wood, this is the only wood I’ve found Osmo not to work on.
This stuff is very dense hardwood pal so maybe it has some certain similarities to ipe 🤷♂️
Thank you for saving me a lot of time and money. I live in Arizona and the heat/UV rays here really are extreme. If a product doesn't 1,000,000% work in other locations, it definitely will not work here. Much blessings to you for this video. ❤
Thanks Michelle and best of luck with whatever finish you choose ❤️😀👍
@Hand-i-Craft Thank you! I'd appreciate any advice. It's to penetrate!seal a slate floor that gets a ton of Arizona sunlight even though it's indoors. In the past, I have tried linseed and tung oils but they both eventually failed. I am now pondering Cutek Extreme. Any thoughts you have on this would be so appreciated.
@@michellechalmers8753 I know this might sound a cop out from me but my best advice Michelle would be to seek advice from an expert local to you. My main reason for saying this is the type of weather you experience is fundamentally different to what we get here. I’ve visited the west coast of Canada and the USA and the heat at times there is brutal for sustained periods. That is something we simply don’t experience here, our main enemy in my part of the U.K is rain!
Osmo uv protection oil used to be a brilliant product, but it’s totally useless now. Refinished my oak porch after 5 years life from original Osmo Uv protection oil in 2023. After 8 months it failed, black and grey on window ledges AND vertical surfaces patchy as hell. Took me 6 weeks to rub it all down and use another product. Osmo changed the formula and didn’t make any statements about this, not professional at all, so I jog on with a painful lesson and they’ll lose another customer 🤷♂️
Thanks for the input here, I was totally unaware of this and could answer a lot of questions folk have been asking about the product failing them
im not sure you need to complain here Leo.
How so pal? You’d be hard pressed to find me complaining about anything on my channel, so when I do there must be an honest and valid reason behind it🤷♂️
Agree you never complain,thats why im partly saying it.Im sure good reasons as well and you can of course, who am i😁 But my experience is that it does not work well for channels specially when its about products that ask a lot of precise use as Osmo ( or a good Festool). But then im not a RUclips adviseer, only some Asian channels🫣😬🫶🏻 Hope it gets you comments and likes and good advice Leo as thats also important for your channel.👏🏻👍🏻
@@xw6968 All good point mate and thanks for the feedback. I think there is a bigger picture to using Osmo externally in the U.K. with our ‘unique’ climate, particularly in the north. I genuinely don’t think it is up to the job and there are suitable alternatives at a fraction of the cost. Really interesting reading other folks experiences as well 😀😀👍👍
Do not use their wood reviver gel also a waste of time and made it worst the following year.
Thanks for the tip 👍👍
Just get hold of a 25L tub of real creosote and be done with it for 50 years.
That is a much better idea, I can still smell the scent of proper creosote my old fella bought 40 years ago, probably burnt holes in my lungs 😂😂
@@Hand-i-Craft Yeah it does stink a bit lol
Apply thin. Professional use only
Spot on! If you have to go out and "maintain" it every year, then it's clearly not doing its job!
That was my exactly my thinking, very disappointed
Osmo is overrated and did not protect my fence at all do not use outside if you spent good money on your timber.
5ltr Timbercare wood preserver £10. You can keep Osmo. It's a shed/workshop. FFS!
I guess I got caught up in the hype Ged with the Osmo. For the front cladding I’d spent a small fortune on it and wanted a good finish to preserve and maintain the wood. You could imagine my level of dissatisfaction when problems started to occur and then it happened again. I’m hopeful my new concoction will work better🤞😀👍
Another great video Leo. Glad you say what you mean. Too much wokery these days. You and Piers Morgan have the right attitude say it as it is. Also noticed some really really nice pieces of slab wood in the background. Doesn’t look cheap either.
The slabs are certainly a story to tell pal👍. Cheers for the message pal, always appreciated 😀👍
You're right that osmo product is NOT the best on the market and too expensive the best on the market is CUTEK and 30% cheaper
Thanks for the heads up on the Cutek👍👍
Opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one and some people are more opinionated than others. Your experience of a product is just that. YOUR experience. If a product doesn't work for you then that's all that matters. I've never used Osmo products as they are way too expensive and there are always cheaper alternatives. If you have to reapply every year then it is not good value for money.
Thanks Paul and spot on here pal 😀👍
Стена никак не защищена от осадков, нет свесов. Чего ты хотел?! Ниодин продукт в этом случае не дает гарантий, только если красить укрывной краской.
Too expensive for me
Certainly is for a lot of folk pal, and imho not worth it either
Over priced, over rated and unfortunately all over my workshop arghhhhhhhh, Leo can I borrow your sander when your done.
It might be fine for other folk pal, but my experiences with it have been poor for the workshop front 😞
OSMOGASAMS! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
👊👊😂😂😂😂
Brave!
Very 💪😂👍😀
Chin up, it's only social media. Mike
@@michaelblackmore883 😀😀👍👍
Tree, lumber, deck, sealer, semi-transparent, solid stain, paint, dump. Deal with it.
I’m not quite sure what you mean in this comment?
Osmo is crap and over rated, always amuses me when people rave on about it and they have never used it.
That’s the bit I don’t understand pal, why would you recommend anything to someone if you haven’t used it yourself 🤷♂️