you're the first person I've known to understand the difference between a planed edge vs sanded or sawn on the surface structure of the wood and impact on coating/penetration, that's not a industrial wood finisher like myself! ultimate respect. Agreed if you're splashing out on decent timber , protect it with decent stuff. I give people Osmo price estimates get laughed at and told they're down getting ronseal onecoat at b&q for their iroko panelling. Great video displaying the difference between a protective film vs a protective penetrative oil. Also loving you're other video using the p5 egger protect flooring and sealing you're cut edges with a paint or glue. Super impressive details- that a lot of people avoid because it's not seen or misunderstood.
Love OSMO products, never disappointed. Not the cheapest but worth it for worktops,table, outdoor furniture, and probably cladding though I have used on that. So many support videos too.
I know this video was sponsored by Osmo, but as a long time decorator, my absolute choice is always Sadolin. The colourless variant is called Natural, but it does have a slight darkening effect due to the UV protection oils, it does a fantastic job of preserving the wood from fungal and insect attack, lasts for many years, enhances the beauty of the wood and for maintenance you just recoat it periodically. Some of my customers of 30+ years would agree ! Each to their own, Robin.
I really like SupaDec brilliant stuff. With the Sadolin you are taking about what is the preparation like before recoat? My understanding with Osmo is recoat requires minimal prep required? Only a DIY monkey 🐒 here, but I know how much a good finish lasts and wears
Highly recommend Sadolins. If darkening is an issue use Sadolins Extra Durable Clearcoat instead of Natural as a top coat/maintenance coat. Example: 8 years ago we fitted a new pair of softwood garage doors & finished with 1 coat of Sadolins Classic then 2 coats of Clearcoat (including ALL edges & removed locks beforehand.) I've just given them 2 coats of Clearcoat for a refresher/maintenance having 1st washed them down with a fungicidal wash followed by a light sand. No signs of rot & doors are south facing in the UK.
Hi Robin, really appreciate all the videos you put up, so much to learn and absorb in every one it’s really fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to film, edit and upload them. :o) As for the Osmo UV Oil, I treated the cedar cladding on our new build house about 18months ago now and I used the Osmo UV Oil, clear satin. It’s an amazing product, very easy to apply after I’d prepped the areas and looks fantastic too.
I used the osmo uv clear oil on Western Red Cedar, 2 coats, 1 before installing and the 2nd once it was all fitted, it looked stunning before the second coat but once it was double coated it was like a piece of furniture, I recommend it on another cedar job and they bought the osmo oil with cedar colour and it looked nice as well, I would definitely use it again on my extension once I get it built, personally I prefer the clear, the one with the stain makes everything a little darker,
I just applied the UV Protection oil on some outdoor cedar furniture (a sofa and 2 chairs). I put on 3 coats. It turned out beautiful. It has a satin finish, and is nice and smooth (I sanded to 220 before applying). These pieces will be under a covered porch. They won't be in direct rain, but will get splashed occasionally. They will be in direct sun, for about 4 hours a day... I am also going to apply some of the Blacktail Studios N3 Nano coat on the arm rests (they are pretty big, wide, and flat).
I've used Osmo products for years but i've found that the Oak stain comes out more orange/brown than an oak colour if you use it on your off the shelf standard TGV cladding
I've got Siberian larch fence panels which I've just put osmo wood reviver power gel on. Do I need to put anything on before applying the natural oil woodstain?
I use the UV Protection Oil on the European Oak window surrounds on our narrowboat - it is brilliant stuff, brings out the grain and protects perfectly. I apply with a scotchbrite pad as it really gets it into the grain - reapply every other year, quick rub down and re-coat - job done.
Can anyone tell me - I'm putting up a tongue and grove garden room. Do / should I treat the T&G with a preservative while I'm building/assembling it? I live in west of Ireland and a lot of rain, - will appreciate good advice. - Thx
Just finished building a Western Red Cedar Clad Garden Office for my neighbour & used the Osmo UV Protection Oil Cedar - 428 Extra & it really enhances the grain. Also used it on an Elliptical Shaped Yellow Balau (Bangkirai) Hardwood Deck at front of Garden Office as my neighbour not only wanted the durability of Balau but also the UV Protection and for it to "blend in" with the Cedar Cladding (truly amazing result achieved 👍). Osmo do sell an 006 Bangkirai Decking Oil but this wouldn't have achieved what my neighbour was after.
I would love to know how the osmo oil fairs with tanilised timber. I have built a garden room and used tanilised timber for the cladding, personally I would like it to bleach in the sun before applying a coat of protection, but the one paying the bills wants a coating on it ASAP. I have used the osmo 425 on the doors and windows and this looks the same as the cladding at the moment. Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated
What tint colour are u planning on using on your customers cedar cladding Robin? Uv oil is the way to go, great product. I'm in the same situation on a future job let us know which shade/clear u go with on the cedar👍
Alright robin a bit off topic but have you used only of the HKC 55, kss 40 or metabo ks 18 ltx style saws with the captive guide rail. Seem like a good go between as a bit of a do it all saw but are they any cop out in the real world?
Hi Tomo, I have tried the festool and they are quite nice there are many reasons I don't use that for cutting cladding angles or rafters and I will look at that in some upcoming video about roof construction, hope that helps mate!!
@@ukconstruction very much so mate. I'm in no rush to buy anything, just fancy a good quality saw and these seemed a decent go between a track saw and a standard circular saw. thanks for the reply !!
I am fairly sure Robin talked about them during one of his house build video’s. From memory it might have been the door build video when he was fitting or talking about contrast of setting. Could be worth looking back at a few videos
Osmo have a product that will help clean and revive silvered timber, some timbers will come back better than others, check out the @Osmo website, hope that helps
Many thanks for teh review. I'd go with the UV protection oil, thought the other was flat and without character. That being said, I would also probably go with a clear oil too just out of preference. Do you think it would look good on typical treated timber like a railway sleeper or roofing batons (non-coloured). Not all of us are rolling in the cash to buy cedar these days!
@@thetessellater9163 Indeed, I usually use a shed preserver because i like the colour and it soaks in. What I mean is could Robin test them on a regular bit of cheap treated timber. Cedar goes a wonderful colour with the UV oil, I wonder what the treated timber would look like. The shed preserver is always tinted with a darker colour.
something ive used you could look into is accoya cladding, it doesnt expand and contract so any paint or stain lasts much longer, its also guaranteed for 50 years outside. expensive and hard as hell so predrill before screwing, ive not used nails but imagine it would be difficult. im leaving ours untreated and hope it weathers to a silver patina.
@@ukpipeline oh yeah missed the 3 second banner at the start... The whole style is hes "trying out".. Bollox he's getting paid to promote. Anyway you look at its not obvious, and he doesn't say so in the vid. It's a bit deceitful for my taste. Why when someone gets paid, would you assume hes being honest? U never met a car salesman 😆?
Hi robin I’m trying to find an apprenticeship in carpentry but struggling to find any . I have approved and contacted people but no luck. Any advise on what else I could do ? I live in Ireland by the way
Hi Daragh, I hear your pain mate!! it is an absolute nightmare to try to find an apprenticeship!! have you been in touch with the Institute of Carpenters? they may be able to assist, otherwise try your local careers office and the colleges and wee if they have any leads? good luck my friend
Hi, my next-door neighbour has asked if I could get the things together to run power to her brick built shed and I would like to help her with this, I know an electrician will be needed as I am not willing to touch the main fuse box but I do not know what she will need. I know she will have to get cable to run from her fuse box to the shed and I assume she will need to run it overhead or burry it below grown and I assume that she will need a fuse box in the shed but I don’t know the thickness of the wire, the depth it will be buried underground, if it will need to be in conduit, or overhead will it need some sort of cable to stop it being stretched .also at what height. I would not attempt to fit it myself but the digging or overhead strain cable I can do, also getting the cable as I have some rolls of it in my shed 1.5, 2.5 and 30 amp. Any info you can sheer would be much appreciated.
absolutely, everything you've asked for needs to designed by an electrically competent person or call an electrcian amd installed, they will advise you about digging etc
A highly skilled hard working tradesman, who can price correctly, should be able to build a profitable career, and in time, be pretty well off. Its the billionaires who need to cough up some taxes !
He is a highly skilled professional that doesn't cut corners and does things properly. That allows him to price jobs accordingly and wealthy people are willing to pay up.
@@thetessellater9163 Are you an OSMO area rep? hahahaha! I remember when OSMO tried to get STAKKER to use their vegan products. Not a chance. STAKKER prefers a nice bit of varny.
Uv protection oil all the way for me. Brings out that lovely Cedar figure. I'm on a budget on my garden room. Using reclaimed Oak decking boards for my cladding. Then treating it in Screwfix no nonsense decking stain black Ash. Two tins twenty pounds, bargain!
The oil is the go. Best look and easiest to maintain. None of the products last as long as what they say on the can all smoke and mirrors to be taken with a pinch of salt. You will be out there recoating and the oil is the easiest to keep putting on. My house is all western red cedar cladding and some Muppet varnished it. Pealed in exposed areas and stuck under cover. Couldn't get it all off so had to paint over it. What a waste. Get them to pick the oil they won't regret it.
Could you not just get a few smoked and cost them and leave them in the sun for a year to see how it weathers? When it comes to finishes there are so many of boggles the mind Anyway, the oak I'm doing now comes in barrels 🍻
I have started having a few customers that will go for untreated wood. Maybe not the right thing for the UK (unless you have oak or elm cladding), but here is a film I made about untreated buildings in Norway (ruclips.net/video/azHGAHJsKew/видео.html). Great video Robin thanks for sharing!
Robin says garden room. Most people are thinking id happily live in that 🤣. Fair play to you Robin. Skilled, harding working and honest
you're the first person I've known to understand the difference between a planed edge vs sanded or sawn on the surface structure of the wood and impact on coating/penetration, that's not a industrial wood finisher like myself! ultimate respect. Agreed if you're splashing out on decent timber , protect it with decent stuff. I give people Osmo price estimates get laughed at and told they're down getting ronseal onecoat at b&q for their iroko panelling. Great video displaying the difference between a protective film vs a protective penetrative oil.
Also loving you're other video using the p5 egger protect flooring and sealing you're cut edges with a paint or glue. Super impressive details- that a lot of people avoid because it's not seen or misunderstood.
Thanks mate, have a great week!!
Never mind that Cladding Robin ..... THOSE DOORS ??? ..... Absolutely Beautiful :-)
Love OSMO products, never disappointed. Not the cheapest but worth it for worktops,table, outdoor furniture, and probably cladding though I have used on that. So many support videos too.
Nice helpful video. Interesting to see the immediate differences between the stain and UV protector
I know this video was sponsored by Osmo, but as a long time decorator, my absolute choice is always Sadolin.
The colourless variant is called Natural, but it does have a slight darkening effect due to the UV protection oils, it does a fantastic job of preserving the wood from fungal and insect attack, lasts for many years, enhances the beauty of the wood and for maintenance you just recoat it periodically. Some of my customers of 30+ years would agree !
Each to their own, Robin.
I really like SupaDec brilliant stuff. With the Sadolin you are taking about what is the preparation like before recoat? My understanding with Osmo is recoat requires minimal prep required? Only a DIY monkey 🐒 here, but I know how much a good finish lasts and wears
Highly recommend Sadolins. If darkening is an issue use Sadolins Extra Durable Clearcoat instead of Natural as a top coat/maintenance coat.
Example: 8 years ago we fitted a new pair of softwood garage doors & finished with 1 coat of Sadolins Classic then 2 coats of Clearcoat (including ALL edges & removed locks beforehand.) I've just given them 2 coats of Clearcoat for a refresher/maintenance having 1st washed them down with a fungicidal wash followed by a light sand. No signs of rot & doors are south facing in the UK.
Doesn't Sadolin need to be sanded or at least keyed back each time it is recoated though?
Great review Robin. Your front doors still look beautiful. I too, would go for the UV Protection Oil. Thanks for sharing.
You certainly have worked hard and earned that beautiful house of yours.
Great job Robin. Lucky lady 🙂
Hi Robin, really appreciate all the videos you put up, so much to learn and absorb in every one it’s really fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to film, edit and upload them. :o)
As for the Osmo UV Oil, I treated the cedar cladding on our new build house about 18months ago now and I used the Osmo UV Oil, clear satin. It’s an amazing product, very easy to apply after I’d prepped the areas and looks fantastic too.
I did my new fence panels with 2 coats of Liberon Decking oil 5 years ago, they still look nearly new and are only just about ready for a touch up.
I used the osmo uv clear oil on Western Red Cedar, 2 coats, 1 before installing and the 2nd once it was all fitted, it looked stunning before the second coat but once it was double coated it was like a piece of furniture,
I recommend it on another cedar job and they bought the osmo oil with cedar colour and it looked nice as well, I would definitely use it again on my extension once I get it built, personally I prefer the clear, the one with the stain makes everything a little darker,
What do you think is the best reasonably priced wood for cladding Dormer Windows in the UK? Assuming you were happy to let it nauturally silver?
I just applied the UV Protection oil on some outdoor cedar furniture (a sofa and 2 chairs). I put on 3 coats. It turned out beautiful. It has a satin finish, and is nice and smooth (I sanded to 220 before applying). These pieces will be under a covered porch. They won't be in direct rain, but will get splashed occasionally. They will be in direct sun, for about 4 hours a day... I am also going to apply some of the Blacktail Studios N3 Nano coat on the arm rests (they are pretty big, wide, and flat).
Sounds great!
I've used Osmo products for years but i've found that the Oak stain comes out more orange/brown than an oak colour if you use it on your off the shelf standard TGV cladding
Great video as usual.
I've been thinking of using OSMO on my workshop clad with vertical board and batten Siberian Larch. Definitely will now.
Really interesting video! As always comprehensive analysis of each product including a brief summary of our beautiful climate 😂
Love your house!! Particularly the place with the pool. Super nice!!
I've got Siberian larch fence panels which I've just put osmo wood reviver power gel on. Do I need to put anything on before applying the natural oil woodstain?
Any idea what trousers robin wears? They look really slim unlike most work trousers. Cheers
Snickers, certain styles are available in slim fit. I wear the stretch workwear ones which are brilliant and great for summer/spring
I use the UV Protection Oil on the European Oak window surrounds on our narrowboat - it is brilliant stuff, brings out the grain and protects perfectly. I apply with a scotchbrite pad as it really gets it into the grain - reapply every other year, quick rub down and re-coat - job done.
Can anyone tell me - I'm putting up a tongue and grove garden room. Do / should I treat the T&G with a preservative while I'm building/assembling it?
I live in west of Ireland and a lot of rain, - will appreciate good advice. - Thx
Any tips on how to maintain a wood plane like yours? Sharpening tips would be especially welcome.
Christ, the gutters look outstanding!
'Lindab' presumably, they come in a range of colours, and much used in Scandinavia where snow coming off a roof would damage plastic guttering.
Lindab they are indeed, they are a superb gutter and one of my favourite products!!!!
Just finished building a Western Red Cedar Clad Garden Office for my neighbour & used the Osmo UV Protection Oil Cedar - 428 Extra & it really enhances the grain. Also used it on an Elliptical Shaped Yellow Balau (Bangkirai) Hardwood Deck at front of Garden Office as my neighbour not only wanted the durability of Balau but also the UV Protection and for it to "blend in" with the Cedar Cladding (truly amazing result achieved 👍). Osmo do sell an 006 Bangkirai Decking Oil but this wouldn't have achieved what my neighbour was after.
Would you coat both side?
Yes its best to base coat the cladding all round then fix it up
I would love to know how the osmo oil fairs with tanilised timber.
I have built a garden room and used tanilised timber for the cladding, personally I would like it to bleach in the sun before applying a coat of protection, but the one paying the bills wants a coating on it ASAP.
I have used the osmo 425 on the doors and windows and this looks the same as the cladding at the moment.
Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated
You can have any shade of magnolia you want
What tint colour are u planning on using on your customers cedar cladding Robin? Uv oil is the way to go, great product. I'm in the same situation on a future job let us know which shade/clear u go with on the cedar👍
Alright robin a bit off topic but have you used only of the HKC 55, kss 40 or metabo ks 18 ltx style saws with the captive guide rail. Seem like a good go between as a bit of a do it all saw but are they any cop out in the real world?
Hi Tomo, I have tried the festool and they are quite nice there are many reasons I don't use that for cutting cladding angles or rafters and I will look at that in some upcoming video about roof construction, hope that helps mate!!
@@ukconstruction very much so mate. I'm in no rush to buy anything, just fancy a good quality saw and these seemed a decent go between a track saw and a standard circular saw. thanks for the reply !!
Hi Robin could I ask where you sourced the stone cladding on the sides of your entrance, thanks in advance!
I am fairly sure Robin talked about them during one of his house build video’s. From memory it might have been the door build video when he was fitting or talking about contrast of setting. Could be worth looking back at a few videos
Another brilliant video - thank you !!!
How do you bring it back from silvering down???
Osmo have a product that will help clean and revive silvered timber, some timbers will come back better than others, check out the @Osmo website, hope that helps
@@ukconstruction thank you, much appreciated.👍
Many thanks for teh review. I'd go with the UV protection oil, thought the other was flat and without character. That being said, I would also probably go with a clear oil too just out of preference. Do you think it would look good on typical treated timber like a railway sleeper or roofing batons (non-coloured). Not all of us are rolling in the cash to buy cedar these days!
Treated timber does need something on it for weather and UV protection - the treating just prevents fungal and insect attack.
@@thetessellater9163 Indeed, I usually use a shed preserver because i like the colour and it soaks in. What I mean is could Robin test them on a regular bit of cheap treated timber. Cedar goes a wonderful colour with the UV oil, I wonder what the treated timber would look like. The shed preserver is always tinted with a darker colour.
Robin, what do you recommend for staining internal oak veneer doors? Also can we get a finished house tour 😁👍
something ive used you could look into is accoya cladding, it doesnt expand and contract so any paint or stain lasts much longer, its also guaranteed for 50 years outside. expensive and hard as hell so predrill before screwing, ive not used nails but imagine it would be difficult. im leaving ours untreated and hope it weathers to a silver patina.
Kevin, hope you’ve used stainless steel fixings, accoya is renowned for rotting standard fixings.
@@Rustyfinger i used coated fixings
Bit of linseed oil or teak oil looks great.
Hi Robin. Can you please confirm that you have reviewed these products for no commercial gain or "freebies".. Always good to know.
It says it’s a sponsored video. So assume he’s paid to review but I’m sure his advice is honest.
@@ukpipeline oh yeah missed the 3 second banner at the start... The whole style is hes "trying out".. Bollox he's getting paid to promote. Anyway you look at its not obvious, and he doesn't say so in the vid. It's a bit deceitful for my taste. Why when someone gets paid, would you assume hes being honest? U never met a car salesman 😆?
Hi robin I’m trying to find an apprenticeship in carpentry but struggling to find any . I have approved and contacted people but no luck. Any advise on what else I could do ? I live in Ireland by the way
Hi Daragh, I hear your pain mate!! it is an absolute nightmare to try to find an apprenticeship!! have you been in touch with the Institute of Carpenters? they may be able to assist, otherwise try your local careers office and the colleges and wee if they have any leads? good luck my friend
Thanks for the reply I’ll get on to them right away and see 👍
Gutters I never thought these words would leave my lips steal the show... Love em 🙄😍
Hi, my next-door neighbour has asked if I could get the things together to run power to her brick built shed and I would like to help her with this, I know an electrician will be needed as I am not willing to touch the main fuse box but I do not know what she will need. I know she will have to get cable to run from her fuse box to the shed and I assume she will need to run it overhead or burry it below grown and I assume that she will need a fuse box in the shed but I don’t know the thickness of the wire, the depth it will be buried underground, if it will need to be in conduit, or overhead will it need some sort of cable to stop it being stretched .also at what height. I would not attempt to fit it myself but the digging or overhead strain cable I can do, also getting the cable as I have some rolls of it in my shed 1.5, 2.5 and 30 amp. Any info you can sheer would be much appreciated.
Bury it well over 6 feet down!
@@jasonantigua6825 I did not think it was that much underground but thank you for the information
@@jasonantigua6825 500mm if that more like.... ..6 foot 😂😂
@@ItzD3fW1sH Never! Squirrels and foxes will dig it up
absolutely, everything you've asked for needs to designed by an electrically competent person or call an electrcian amd installed, they will advise you about digging etc
Completely agree on the tint looking better. Not a fan of the stain at all - that flat look loses way too much detail.
agreed, the stain just looks like paint in the film
Spent most of the video looking at your make shift workbench. I was listening, honest.
I know, I know, I need to get out more. I blame covid.
I just think as a rule oil is way more favourable than stain as it show off the grain
Another great product is Sikkins, their 'light oak' is especially nice with cedar or any wood infact but is expensive.
Did you use it on your door Robin? Because the door looks mint those test pieces look shit to be fair
Blimey, did you win the lottery Robin? You seem to be absolutely minted?! 🤑
That's what hard work gets you!
@@Oli_Hudson yeah may be…..👍🏼🙂
He just quotes the job's properly and then does exactly what he says he's going to do good luck to him I just wish I could quote as much 😝🔨
A highly skilled hard working tradesman, who can price correctly, should be able to build a profitable career, and in time, be pretty well off. Its the billionaires who need to cough up some taxes !
He is a highly skilled professional that doesn't cut corners and does things properly. That allows him to price jobs accordingly and wealthy people are willing to pay up.
Interesting stuff - thanks. Bit of a minefield for the layman!
No worries!
First comment from STAKKER.
Get a bit of Leyland exterior all-in-one primer and gloss on it !
Then watch it flake, split and peel 😃 (Sounds like the three wise men of poor exterior painting?)
@@thetessellater9163 Are you an OSMO area rep? hahahaha!
I remember when OSMO tried to get STAKKER to use their vegan products. Not a chance.
STAKKER prefers a nice bit of varny.
Uv protection oil all the way for me. Brings out that lovely Cedar figure. I'm on a budget on my garden room. Using reclaimed Oak decking boards for my cladding. Then treating it in Screwfix no nonsense decking stain black Ash. Two tins twenty pounds, bargain!
really helpful, thankyou
UV Protection with Oil for me! 100%
Oil tint looks more natural and less "plasticy".
Also adds fuel if it goes up I’m smoke
😍🙌😎
The oil is the go. Best look and easiest to maintain. None of the products last as long as what they say on the can all smoke and mirrors to be taken with a pinch of salt. You will be out there recoating and the oil is the easiest to keep putting on. My house is all western red cedar cladding and some Muppet varnished it. Pealed in exposed areas and stuck under cover. Couldn't get it all off so had to paint over it. What a waste. Get them to pick the oil they won't regret it.
👍
Could you not just get a few smoked and cost them and leave them in the sun for a year to see how it weathers?
When it comes to finishes there are so many of boggles the mind
Anyway, the oak I'm doing now comes in barrels 🍻
Yacht Varnish 😀
I have started having a few customers that will go for untreated wood. Maybe not the right thing for the UK (unless you have oak or elm cladding), but here is a film I made about untreated buildings in Norway (ruclips.net/video/azHGAHJsKew/видео.html). Great video Robin thanks for sharing!
🤘🤓🤘
Stop hitting the cladding! LOL
That's not a garden room
lighting is too bad to see anything really, should have done it outside