Thoroughly impressed with how you are pulling all these parts together keeping dimensional integrity relative to limited points of reference and some salvaged original pieces. You make it look too easy. Keep up the great work and documenting your progress with these awesome videos. I anxiously await every update.
Appreciate all the proactive info you include in your videos. I hung a set of quarters on a 67 mustang years ago & welded the door jamb edge before putting the door on. It wasn't pretty.
Barry just wanted to thank-you for helping a "wanna be" mustang restorer. These vids are very helpful and motivating. Great work as always. Thanks so much for all you do and sharing you love for this work. Look forward to future vids on this project. I always learn so much from you.
Coming together very well. Going to be as close as you can get to being an all new car,only with better attention to fit,finish and detail! Oh and just a little bit better rust proofed!
I hope you show how to use the pockets in the quarter to tuck the ends of the roll pan (valance?) so that the seams come together where they meet the quarter panels. Thanks for the great videos.
You got a Roper Whitney hole punch mate? Makes all those holes so much easier. Picked one up on eBay for twenty bucks. Saying that,having a spot welder makes things so much easier and quicker,no drilling,dressing etc,was another good second hand buy!
ok.... I am getting inspired...question for you. on a 70 fastback that has had damage to the rear, enough that it needs quarters. if up into the roof panels looks ok do you think skins will work or should I try full quarter panels? Aside from the difference in cost is the fact I have never replaced one before.
Funny how when you don't look at something for a while you forget things.... I went and lifted up one side of the cover and looked at the quarter and I had thought it was sectioned with a patch panel but the one side was replaced once coming all the way up over the top to within an inch of the trunk opening and they lap jointed it. That made my mind up to just get a full panel and if I'm doing that one I might as well use a full panel on the other side. Besides. Mustangs Unlimited has 20% off on them right now so I'm getting them so I'll have them on hand when I'm ready. Until then I will follow along on your project. I appreciate the willingness to respond to my question. ps. the frame rails looked ok.
The sheet metal is all from Mustangs unlimited. I bought dynacorn branded panels, but the reality is they're the same as any other black panel I've used.
I still wonder how Dynacorn can build full bodyshells as many of the parts used seem to need some rework. Building these bodyshells should have shown them the problems with these parts and rework should have been done (B pillar for example. For the black parts they should told their supplier what to modify (quarter panels).
I am not sure to understand what has to be done by the buyer of a new Dynacorn bodyshell. You can adjust some elements (doors, trunklid, front fenders, hood, front and rear valance) but for already welded parts I don't see...
From what I've heard, even the welded parts sometimes need refitted. The new panels are close to where thet should be, but seams, and body contour will need to be addressed with filler. They are not as straight as people would think.
Thoroughbred GT used to make the shell for the mustang. website is down, but their facebook page is still up offering them for sale. facebook.com/ThoroughbredInt/
I've been noticing you don't seem to have to finesse those aftermarket parts much. I thought they weren't exactly the same as OEM ? I've watched you mate these aftermarket parts with parts with factory specs. (original) I guess older cars don't have as tight of tolerances as do newer cars do ? It just seems one should have to cut, pound, bend aftermarket parts more in order to get them to align properly.
For the most part, these parts are close. I have had to do extensive modification on other projects. And no, the tolerances are not as close on these old cars.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I think anyone who builds a Mustang or any other car should watch these videos. So much info and tips that's overwhelming. :)
Feel free to share. :)
Thoroughly impressed with how you are pulling all these parts together keeping dimensional integrity relative to limited points of reference and some salvaged original pieces. You make it look too easy.
Keep up the great work and documenting your progress with these awesome videos. I anxiously await every update.
Thanks. Remember, it's not my first rodeo.
Appreciate all the proactive info you include in your videos. I hung a set of quarters on a 67 mustang years ago & welded the door jamb edge before putting the door on. It wasn't pretty.
Barry just wanted to thank-you for helping a "wanna be" mustang restorer. These vids are very helpful and motivating. Great work as always. Thanks so much for all you do and sharing you love for this work. Look forward to future vids on this project. I always learn so much from you.
Excellent vid , watched in segments, this is fun to watch this coming together
You sir are an amazing person!!
It's looking great!
I follow a few guys that just blow you away with there knowledge!
Really cool build your doing 👍
Thanks!
Coming together very well. Going to be as close as you can get to being an all new car,only with better attention to fit,finish and detail! Oh and just a little bit better rust proofed!
Nice work. I hear ya on the passenger side trunk lip. Mine looks like crud too, seeing how you fixed it convinced me to go back and fix mine that way!
1M spot welds later!!! Wow. Fun to see it coming together.
Just wanted to say I injoy watching your videos thanks
just caught your channel. watching every episode. looks great so far!
Great job so far can't wait for your next video
Cool idea about waiting with the final weld for perfekt alignment.
Enjoying the build. Some great tips too.
I hope you show how to use the pockets in the quarter to tuck the ends of the roll pan (valance?) so that the seams come together where they meet the quarter panels. Thanks for the great videos.
Yep. Been there before.
Fun to watch, great work!
love the progress
You got a Roper Whitney hole punch mate? Makes all those holes so much easier. Picked one up on eBay for twenty bucks. Saying that,having a spot welder makes things so much easier and quicker,no drilling,dressing etc,was another good second hand buy!
I'll look into it.
Nice work Jo.
jo all I've got to weld is flex core but it seems to work just fine a little messy with splitter but it works and blending is no problem. .
I'm really impatient to see the front end rebuild and how you will adjust the A-pillar location. I guess using the 66 coupe as reference?
Yes. I will also cross reference other cars.
Hay you do know they make a air hole punch for making spot weld holes in sheet metal. works good.
Fantastic!
Enjoyed.
Awesome as usual!!!
ok.... I am getting inspired...question for you. on a 70 fastback that has had damage to the rear, enough that it needs quarters. if up into the roof panels looks ok do you think skins will work or should I try full quarter panels? Aside from the difference in cost is the fact I have never replaced one before.
Good question. Really hard to give an answer without seeing the car. Usually the full quarters are more accurately made. Are the frame rails bent?
Funny how when you don't look at something for a while you forget things.... I went and lifted up one side of the cover and looked at the quarter and I had thought it was sectioned with a patch panel but the one side was replaced once coming all the way up over the top to within an inch of the trunk opening and they lap jointed it. That made my mind up to just get a full panel and if I'm doing that one I might as well use a full panel on the other side. Besides. Mustangs Unlimited has 20% off on them right now so I'm getting them so I'll have them on hand when I'm ready. Until then I will follow along on your project. I appreciate the willingness to respond to my question. ps. the frame rails looked ok.
What brand of body panels did you use? It seemed like it all went together easier than than other makes of cars.
The sheet metal is all from Mustangs unlimited. I bought dynacorn branded panels, but the reality is they're the same as any other black panel I've used.
Very well done
its going to be a very nice car when your done
Making great progress! How do you finish the plug welds which will be visible in the trunk channel area?
I blend them with a sanding disc.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Another Awesome video!!
Great stuff, starting to come together very nicely and looking like a car again. What drill bit do you use for your rosette/plug welds? Thanks.
I usually use a 3/16" pilot, and follow with a step drill. Ending with about a 5/16" hole depending on edge distance.
Thanks!
Good planning...
What about silver soldering the folded spot welded fold's for rust prevention or is this over Kill? Maybe epoxy?
Overkill. Epoxy will be fine.
I still wonder how Dynacorn can build full bodyshells as many of the parts used seem to need some rework. Building these bodyshells should have shown them the problems with these parts and rework should have been done (B pillar for example. For the black parts they should told their supplier what to modify (quarter panels).
From hat I've heard, the new shells are not "paint ready". The new owner will need to have a body shop go over the car and make adjustments.
I am not sure to understand what has to be done by the buyer of a new Dynacorn bodyshell. You can adjust some elements (doors, trunklid, front fenders, hood, front and rear valance) but for already welded parts I don't see...
From what I've heard, even the welded parts sometimes need refitted. The new panels are close to where thet should be, but seams, and body contour will need to be addressed with filler. They are not as straight as people would think.
The quality is dynacons problem under the consumer guarantee act. Visit the build before they ship it.
How do you go about registering this car, 1966 or 2017 mustang? awesome build.
It will be registered as a 1966.
Welded the panels y did you not space the welds. Won't it get hot and worp?
No need. Not a continuous weld, or a butt weld. Thesa are panel overlaps. Not going anywhere, and the heat dissipates nicely.
What size wire do you use .025? 75/25 gas?, I'm working on an S10 Blazer and could use your knowledge
I use .023, but .025 is close enough. 75/25 gas mix as well.
Do you have, with the owner, defined a end date for this restoration/rebuild?
Not really sure. I don't rush my work.
Will this car be registered as a new 2017 model Mustang. How do you establish the VIN?
I'm using as many parts as I can from the originlal car. It will be a 1966.
How much of the original car has to remain for it to be considered a 1966?
Not sure what that answer will be. I am using what I can from the original car though.
Jo Daddy's Garage in my state, as long as the original VIN plate and cowl are used, it's a 1966. It may differ in other states.
What brand welder do you prefer
Currently I'm using a Lincoln 140T.
excellent
Amazing
Are you using the original engine and trans?
No. Aftermarket.
But this is was awesome!!!!!!!!!!
isn't any one in America producing bodyshells for the classics thought there would have been a good market for the retro mod stuff
Thoroughbred GT used to make the shell for the mustang. website is down, but their facebook page is still up offering them for sale.
facebook.com/ThoroughbredInt/
I've been noticing you don't seem to have to finesse those aftermarket parts much. I thought they weren't exactly the same as OEM ? I've watched you mate these aftermarket parts with parts with factory specs. (original) I guess older cars don't have as tight of tolerances as do newer cars do ? It just seems one should have to cut, pound, bend aftermarket parts more in order to get them to align properly.
For the most part, these parts are close. I have had to do extensive modification on other projects. And no, the tolerances are not as close on these old cars.
Buy yourself a spot welder. This idea of drilling grinding locating welding grinding is adding hundreds of hours to your build.
Just sent you an email with a video. Need your opinion on it.