Amazing work so much detail.TCI should use this video to show people who buy this part how to install it even though you point it out a couple of their deficiencies this video is 300 times better then a couple of sheets of paper with some black and white pictures on them keep up the good work
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I bought this same kit from a guy who had fitted it to his car before removing it after panicking about registration laws (we are both in the UK) and I got it for pretty darn cheap considering it had done zero miles and I wouldn't have to worry about shipping and import fees. I managed to get the box plates and subframe in with no reference, but was scratching my head on how to align the upper arm mounts and make sure they were accurate, as the 3/8 tabs had already been removed. Your video gave me the answers I needed when TCI couldn't and I can now sleep much more soundly knowing that I've got them in the right place. Your videos are quite literally in inspiration. I never would have undertaken a rescuemod of the scale that I did without people such as yourselves posting videos online. In the age of social media, most online forums have unfortunately died out, so it's people like you, with videos like this that give guys like me the confidence to buy a pile of rust and turn it into our dream cars. Thank you and I look forward to watching more of you in the future.
Really enjoy the video. i think you really are an inspiration to us weekend wrenchers that only get to dream about the time it would take to do a project like this. Keep up the great work and thanks for the time it takes to do these videos!
NIce work....you know when you look at these various kits the weld in vs the bolt in.... the weld in seems a little more intimidating but watching you step through that was very instructive. I think I could do that now that I have seen one go in. Thanks!!
Greatly appreciate this very informative video! I am in the middle of my 66 mustang tci install and after reading the directions I have to admit I was a little unsure on the install. Thank you so much for doing this video and all of the videos pertaining to the 66!
I agree with the comments below..You do a great job of explaining and pointing out some flaws that you have found, they should be using your videos for training purposes!!! Amazing as always
Always look forward to the next installment. Great info and presentation. I especially like the measuring and line-up considerations. Hope you keep it up for a long while.
Hi Barry. Outstanding job, Buddy. Very detailed and informative video has always and has always I Liked,Shared and added to my channels Playlist's All my very best. Bobby
Barry, really nice welding this project is coming along nicely. Any chance you could do a video sometime show how you weld from the bottom upwards, like you did on the sway bar mounts.
Thanks for this! This is the suspension I want to use on my ‘66 Coupe and this is the best install video for this kit I’ve ever seen. I was thinking about the differences in the upper control arm brackets. My thought is that they are set up that way to provide the correct caster for road crown. It makes sense to me because it doesn’t look like caster is adjustable on that setup.
Hello Barry I've watching just about every series you have, I'm so happy you did this section it just what i need to on my 65 mustang coupe, how much did that kit cost you? thank you Great job again i hope you get into Velocity channel one day.
Just curious...if the owner didn’t put in an FE engine, or modern modular, why did he then select the TCI suspension in lieu of The OE style shock towers...?
Jo after installing the TCI suspension how do you like it? I'm looking at this for my 67 and just wanted some feedback. Overall ride quality, adjust-ability raising and lowering for perfect ride height. Thanks Mark
I've been watching your videos for a while and I'm very impressed with your work. I'm hoping you can answer a question I have regarding my 67 mustang. Both of the outer front frame rails have dents in them that I would like to get out. I could cut a 2" x 3" window in each frame rail opposite the dents to gain access, then pound them out and weld the cutout window back in place. Do you see any issues with this technique, structurally or otherwise? If so, how would you go about it. Thank you and keep the videos coming. ross
That is one way to do it. I can't say doing it that way would cause any problems. You could weld on heavy washers to the dents and use a slide hammer to pull them back out. Then grind off the washers.
Thanks for your reply. I'd actually rather use the weld on slide hammer method, but I've never done that and I'm concerned that I won't be able to get the dent completely out as I can with the window method. Is it possible to get the whole dent out using the slide hammer method?
Short answer is no. For mig welding, it is pretty clean, and the helmet deflects a lot of the gases up and away from your face. As stated in another comment, galvanized metal is quite dangerous to weld without a respirator.
Nice job on the fitment 2 questions though is the front end going to be lowered and what engine is going in with that much room you could put just about any power plant in there again nice work.
Great video Jo, i know you are an aircraft engineer just like i was and you have mastered the skill of measurement but just a small question do you have or do you ever use a laser level? i have one and use it all the time it saves hours when you are trying to get things symmetrical.
ok , so having the scars and arthritis to prove years of working on these cars there is something that is bugging me about these kits. I learned many years ago how poor the front frame rails are in these cars . They have come up with all sorts of braces and they do ofcourse help but they are still very flexy. These kits make it worse by removing that tower which added the structural point for the braces to mount to and create a truss design . No , they werent perfect but without them it was a mess under there . You should do yourself a huge favor and come up with something yourself to truss that nose and get it rigid.
Kyle Van Tassel, He just plated the frame rails on all sides more than doubling the thickness of the frame rails. He will also either bolt or weld in the filler plates for the shock towers Which will stiffin it up even more. So other then putting a cage in the car and installing front strut tubes out the firewall to the front frame rails there isn't much else to do or much else even needed. It will be plenty strong. Guys are auto crossing these with this kit.
Well sorry up man but,,,,no , plating those rails out there does nothing for the issue . I have no doubt you are correct that people are doing all kinds of things with the floppy front rails just hanging out there . The tin thats put back in does nothing either . Think about it for just a moment . The original ford design was far more "Trussed" then this is and yet people that raced mustangs hard went out of the way (Me included) to further stiffen them . Why ? Well because the car has sheet metal frames. You can stiffen all you like out there it still terminates somewhere that is just sheetmetal . The torque boxes are the only real meat there and even they do little to solve this issue because you have taken away the main part of the truss. I am typing this sitting in my garage with a 70 R code facing me and a 66GT fastback that has 25 thousand miles on it with 21.5" tires under the back of it that I must have done 20 some odd years ago or so now. I cannot count how many of these cars I have done , yes , I do know what I am talking about. Take a peak at "Snout kits" and look how they are designed . Its for a reason and then take a look at this. www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=67-68&cat=suspension&prod=frame_stiffeners After that last post of mine I went looking around to see if anyone was addressing the issue and low and behold the guys at mustangs to fear have seen the issue and addressed it. No this doesnt completely solve the issue but it goes a long way to address it.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This is by far THE best "how to" video for the TCI set up I've seen... Much appreciated , thank you sir!
Amazing work so much detail.TCI should use this video to show people who buy this part how to install it even though you point it out a couple of their deficiencies this video is 300 times better then a couple of sheets of paper with some black and white pictures on them keep up the good work
Couldn't agree more.
I was thinking TCI should throw you some goodies your way for making this video 👍
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I bought this same kit from a guy who had fitted it to his car before removing it after panicking about registration laws (we are both in the UK) and I got it for pretty darn cheap considering it had done zero miles and I wouldn't have to worry about shipping and import fees. I managed to get the box plates and subframe in with no reference, but was scratching my head on how to align the upper arm mounts and make sure they were accurate, as the 3/8 tabs had already been removed. Your video gave me the answers I needed when TCI couldn't and I can now sleep much more soundly knowing that I've got them in the right place.
Your videos are quite literally in inspiration. I never would have undertaken a rescuemod of the scale that I did without people such as yourselves posting videos online. In the age of social media, most online forums have unfortunately died out, so it's people like you, with videos like this that give guys like me the confidence to buy a pile of rust and turn it into our dream cars. Thank you and I look forward to watching more of you in the future.
Awesome! Glad this video helped you out. These are my favorite kind of comments!
Appreciate that video man im doing this ro my 65Fastback
Excellent work, a pleasure to watch, the manufacturers ought to be paying you royalties for this!
Outstanding attention to detail, a joy to watch a master at work !
Really enjoy the video. i think you really are an inspiration to us weekend wrenchers that only get to dream about the time it would take to do a project like this. Keep up the great work and thanks for the time it takes to do these videos!
I am enjoying the videos. You're very easy to listen to and understand. Wow!, a lot of work.
unreal workmanship, enjoy every video. Thank you for sharing.
It blows me away how you are doing this. Fantastic. Keep up the great work.
NIce work....you know when you look at these various kits the weld in vs the bolt in.... the weld in seems a little more intimidating but watching you step through that was very instructive. I think I could do that now that I have seen one go in. Thanks!!
Greatly appreciate this very informative video! I am in the middle of my 66 mustang tci install and after reading the directions I have to admit I was a little unsure on the install. Thank you so much for doing this video and all of the videos pertaining to the 66!
Looks like a great kit. Nice work Barry, I like your attention to detail.
I agree with the comments below..You do a great job of explaining and pointing out some flaws that you have found, they should be using your videos for training purposes!!! Amazing as always
Love the attention to detail!! And how you explain it all......looking forward to #14
Enjoying this series. Nice job.
That Pony is looking AWESOME!!!
Your attention to detail is second to none great job thumbs up!!👍
YOU AND YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME AND EFFORT TO MAKE THEM AND SHARE THEM WITH US
That's a nice setup. I wish I had the money and skills to put that in my ford. Nice job.
Always look forward to the next installment. Great info and presentation. I especially like the measuring and line-up considerations. Hope you keep it up for a long while.
Very well video documented install. One of the best I've seen. Thanks.
That's some pretty nice welding skills you've got. Nice work, it looks great.
AS28g, welding skills? Too funny.
@@Dixler683 Yeah everyone on youtube can do better. Blah blah blah
Great attention to detail. You make it look easy. You should do an instruction welding video for us not so talented 👍
Great Job!!!! Looks strong and great!
Exciting to see it at this stage! You do an amazing job and it looks great :-)
Great work as usual - very nice welding and this TCI kit looks well engineered!
Another great and informative video very much enjoying the process 👍👍
What a GOLD MINE! Thank you so much for making this video!
Hi Barry. Outstanding job, Buddy. Very detailed and informative video has always and has always I Liked,Shared and added to my channels Playlist's
All my very best.
Bobby
as always a fantastic video you are a pleasure to watch ad a true craftsman. keep it up.. Kade Amsterdam
Enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing.
Great job! She's looking good.
Very well done. Thanks!
Great videos, thanks for doing them
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice.
Excellent work , thinking of calling my camaro “ Brooklyn camaro “ it’s turning into what you have there , not quite but close ;)
Barry, really nice welding this project is coming along nicely. Any chance you could do a video sometime show how you weld from the bottom upwards, like you did on the sway bar mounts.
Possibly...
Jo Daddy's Garage thanks everytime I try, I get weld just falling back onto the welding tip and clogging it up, am sure it happens to others too 😤
Nice looking welds
Thanks for this! This is the suspension I want to use on my ‘66 Coupe and this is the best install video for this kit I’ve ever seen.
I was thinking about the differences in the upper control arm brackets. My thought is that they are set up that way to provide the correct caster for road crown. It makes sense to me because it doesn’t look like caster is adjustable on that setup.
Who ever gets this auto gonna be HAPPY
always great info, thanks for the videos :)
great video
nice welding..
Very nice
Hello Barry I've watching just about every series you have, I'm so happy you did this section it just what i need to on my 65 mustang coupe, how much did that kit cost you? thank you Great job again i hope you get into Velocity channel one day.
The kit was provided by the owner of the car. I do not know what it cost.
Jo Daddy's Garage Thank you again your great insperation.
She is going to handle like it's on rails.
Dang it, now I'm going to have to put a TCI front end in mine... hahaha...
Just curious...if the owner didn’t put in an FE engine, or modern modular, why did he then select the TCI suspension in lieu of The OE style shock towers...?
It's what he wanted.
@@JoDaddysGarage thanks. Just curious if there were any perceived issues with the dynacorn complete assembly.
Jo, great work! I have a 68 coupe and would like more information on the TCI, IFS. possible part #/ list anything would help Thank Daryn LeGrand.
totalcostinvolved.com/
Would you be interested in doing a 73 bronco build?
Always interested. Time is not on my side....
Yep...I watched this video twice!!
Did you have to address VIN duplication when replacing the inner fenders? If so how?
Cut...weld.
And I guess you still use your Lincoln 140T MIG welder for this metal thickness (of course with different settings and wire)?
Yes. I thought I noted that I used .030 wire.
Yes you did but not the welder... I was pretty sure, I just needed to be totally sure...
Jo after installing the TCI suspension how do you like it? I'm looking at this for my 67 and just wanted some feedback. Overall ride quality, adjust-ability raising and lowering for perfect ride height. Thanks Mark
I have not had the chance to try it. The car is at a stand still, and I will not be working on it anymore.
Hey Jodaddy hope you ok haven't seen any videos in a while
There's a few new ones. Getting some stuff done on the 68 coupe at the moment.
I've been watching your videos for a while and I'm very impressed with your work. I'm hoping you can answer a question I have regarding my 67 mustang. Both of the outer front frame rails have dents in them that I would like to get out. I could cut a 2" x 3" window in each frame rail opposite the dents to gain access, then pound them out and weld the cutout window back in place. Do you see any issues with this technique, structurally or otherwise? If so, how would you go about it. Thank you and keep the videos coming. ross
That is one way to do it. I can't say doing it that way would cause any problems. You could weld on heavy washers to the dents and use a slide hammer to pull them back out. Then grind off the washers.
Thanks for your reply. I'd actually rather use the weld on slide hammer method, but I've never done that and I'm concerned that I won't be able to get the dent completely out as I can with the window method. Is it possible to get the whole dent out using the slide hammer method?
Possible. Really depends on how the dents were created in the first place, and how deep they are.
thanks again, you're the man.
How do you do this in less than an hour? Its been 3 days and I am still at it!! o_O
Experience.
Do you need to wear a respirator when you are welding?
Gary White not usually, unless the metal is galvanized.
Also depending on the rod if arc welding, Mig gas welding is much cleaner. Just a tip on arc.
Short answer is no. For mig welding, it is pretty clean, and the helmet deflects a lot of the gases up and away from your face. As stated in another comment, galvanized metal is quite dangerous to weld without a respirator.
About how many hours did this take?
That’s a good question. I don’t really remember, but I’d say 3-4 to do the actual install. I spend more time test fitting for sure.
What size welder and wire size did you use?
# lol dolls 509 I use a Lincoln 140t and for sheet metal I use .025 wire. For heavier work I use .030
@@JoDaddysGarage Thank you I am installing same setup on my 70 mach 1.
Where did you get your frame holder?
From summit racing. I made a video on it.
Come to Montreal and do my mustang!
Nice job on the fitment 2 questions though is the front end going to be lowered and what engine is going in with that much room you could put just about any power plant in there again nice work.
I'm not sure. I'm installing parts provided.
I have a 351 in mine still has the old parts,Very tight fit to say the least. I would love to do something like this on mine.
All my best.
Bobby
Where can I buy this ?
Search TCI.
Great video Jo, i know you are an aircraft engineer just like i was and you have mastered the skill of measurement but just a small question do you have or do you ever use a laser level? i have one and use it all the time it saves hours when you are trying to get things symmetrical.
I have not, but that is a good idea.
If they know what the dimensions are why did they make it wrong?
No idea. I had a fight with all of the suspension parts. The rear was worse.
ok , so having the scars and arthritis to prove years of working on these cars there is something that is bugging me about these kits.
I learned many years ago how poor the front frame rails are in these cars . They have come up with all sorts of braces and they do ofcourse help but they are still very flexy. These kits make it worse by removing that tower which added the structural point for the braces to mount to and create a truss design . No , they werent perfect but without them it was a mess under there .
You should do yourself a huge favor and come up with something yourself to truss that nose and get it rigid.
Kyle Van Tassel, He just plated the frame rails on all sides more than doubling the thickness of the frame rails. He will also either bolt or weld in the filler plates for the shock towers Which will stiffin it up even more. So other then putting a cage in the car and installing front strut tubes out the firewall to the front frame rails there isn't much else to do or much else even needed. It will be plenty strong. Guys are auto crossing these with this kit.
Well sorry up man but,,,,no , plating those rails out there does nothing for the issue . I have no doubt you are correct that people are doing all kinds of things with the floppy front rails just hanging out there . The tin thats put back in does nothing either . Think about it for just a moment . The original ford design was far more "Trussed" then this is and yet people that raced mustangs hard went out of the way (Me included) to further stiffen them . Why ? Well because the car has sheet metal frames. You can stiffen all you like out there it still terminates somewhere that is just sheetmetal . The torque boxes are the only real meat there and even they do little to solve this issue because you have taken away the main part of the truss.
I am typing this sitting in my garage with a 70 R code facing me and a 66GT fastback that has 25 thousand miles on it with 21.5" tires under the back of it that I must have done 20 some odd years ago or so now.
I cannot count how many of these cars I have done , yes , I do know what I am talking about.
Take a peak at "Snout kits" and look how they are designed . Its for a reason and then take a look at this.
www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=67-68&cat=suspension&prod=frame_stiffeners
After that last post of mine I went looking around to see if anyone was addressing the issue and low and behold the guys at mustangs to fear have seen the issue and addressed it.
No this doesnt completely solve the issue but it goes a long way to address it.
Dina ore car body’s
too much jawing
Thanks for commenting
What size wire(s) are you using?
I'll have to check. It was either .030, or .035.
It was .030
@@JoDaddysGarage thanks, you don't have to check. I'm more curious what size you use for plug welding your sheet metal
@@rclc93 I use either .023 or .025 for sheet metal.