Proof positive a person can’t just sling those panels on the car and weld them up in a couple hours. I went through similar issues on my 67. The passenger side was almost perfect. The drivers side was a nightmare. In my case, it was too short going to the door jamb. I always learn something watching you.
Retired restoration metal smith... no panel regardless of who makes it is going to just jump onto the car , even factory NOS are rejects from the assembly line ! ........... in the bizz we say " they are better than starting with a flat sheet " ! ........... very good work on this car . You sir are a body man,not a parts changer . You worked this out quite well , be proud of this car and yourself .
My god I've watched this video probably 10 times and probably will another 10 before the spring comes lol. This will be my first time ever replacing rear quarters can't wait to get started. Good videos so much information and things I never thought about with solutions. Thanks Barry keep up the good work. Love your other videos as well
Hi Barry, this is Elijah I found the name of the mustang you working on, you named it jade. Thank you for the feed back. Your work is very good you explain nicely.
Thanks so much for your videos! I'm building a 1970 Shelby Convertible clone, and unfortunately my donor car needs a bunch of rust repair! I absolutely love the way you've addressed all the issues with the wheelhouse, quarter panel lineup, taillight panel, etc! Wonderful job, and you are my absolute favorite guy when it comes to fixing the bodies on these old ponies! Keep up the good work! If I had three hands, you'd get three thumbs up!
Very nice work as usual, keep the vids coming. I just made a trip to Mustangs Unlimited a couple days ago to pick up quarterpanels and outer wheel houses for my 73 mach 1. You should have seen their faces when I said I wanted to inspect and verify that the wheel houses would line up with the quarters. For the most part they did but will still be some manipulation needed. I keep watching your videos for guidance on that, so thanks for everything.
Great work! I was going to restore a 1968 Mustang GT Fastback but I had a stroke so that killed those plans and I sold the Mustang. It's good to see all your hard work is paying off.
Love the vids . Go back over them all the time. Barry , you would like using an air chisel to remove sheet metal welds. Get one with sharp v chisel cutting head.. Ian
ALMOST impossible to change the entire quarter panel! Just leave it to me to find a hardest way to do something. This is my first time doing this and I melted that lead out and drilled out the spotwelds and pulled the piece out from under the sail panel. I wish I had known to not do that cause its created a lot of more work. It fits pretty good though. The only real problem I've had though is getting the wheelhouse to match the panel opening where the wheel is. I've had to cut and add metal to the wheel house to get edges mated together so I can weld them. I'm gonna do it like you did when I do the passenger side. Live and learn!!
Looks great Barry. That was alot of work on the quarter. I would still rather do that than deal with alot of rust. Hopefully the aftermarket panels will continue to get better. Thanks for the vid.
Same. But in my experience, aftermarket parts almost always fall on the "we have an idea that they might fit" rather than on the other. So long i get within 80% of the original (and my personal pet peeve, the thickness, which most repro companies don't do) i'm okay with it. Certainly better than dealing with rusty panels.
I'd like to see how you handled the quarter extension meeting up to the tail panel. I did most of those fixes but the quarter extension sure don't match the tail panel. I've not figured out that little mess.
Great video as always. Noticed the fuel tank is still in place. How did you seal it to avoid gas fumes igniting from welding and grinding. I need to replace the tail panel on my 69 and figured tank removal was necessary for safety. Perhaps I’m over thinking.
I usually drill 5/16" to 3/8" holes. It can depend on how wide the flange is. I can't say what the exact measurement should be. 3/16-1/4" normally. I like 3/16".
Did the right side quarter panel have to be cut as much as the left side and did this car have the chrome piece that goes in the scoop? I was wondering if the chrome piece would fit correctly in the scoop.
Barry, I have a 65 Mustang. The trunk hits on both sides. Is it possible to fix without removing quarter panels? Thanks love the stuff you video. Roger
@@JoDaddysGarage thank you much! I havent dug in yet. I want to get started on it soon. It's a blank canvas so I have been researching alot because I want to do a restomod. Thank you much! Love the channel. I rebuild Camaros so I am learning alot on mustang.
In this video I used my Lincoln 140t. .025 wire. Feed set at 2 and heat set at B. If you are looking for a welder, I have links in my videos for the yeswelder and arccaptain. Look them up and the discounts are in the description. Both are great welders.
Did you get those quarter panels at the church rummage sale ? Are you sure you needed to cut the front of the quarter like that?.. and maybe not move it backwards a bit?. Or maybe the cowl panel where the door bolts is shoved back a bit.. ehh.. I'm just Monday morning quarterbacking, sorry I'm 50 years in the body shop biz. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and say those quarters just weren't made right. I try to get my quarters n such from dynacorn, cjpony, and here in Dayton Ohio we have 'Resto World' high quality Parts from a business with a great reputation. No matter what the problem was, you do it your way and I believe it's going to look absolutely terrific. Hell..it already does ! (It's 2021 now) I'm doin a 66 Tang GT Convertible, Be Fenders, Hood , doors, decklid quarter panels..outer whlhse, But original floors,Rockers,frame sections are near-perfect.
@@JoDaddysGarage Barry, thanks so much for the reply. Your documentation of the 68 has been a real help for me with my similar 67. I know the slight differences from the two model years and actually installed an OE collapsing steering column from a donor 68 into my 67. That solid steering shaft in the pre 68 cars is dangerous. Thanks again for taking the time.
I need to replace the quarter panel but i am looking for the piece or pilar between the roof and quarter panel, i have phoyos is there abyway to contact you ?
I have used some that is labeled Dynacorn, and some that is actual Dynacorn. All the silver panels (weld thru primer) are theirs from what I know. The black panels (fenders, quarters, doors) are typically the same as any other. They just put their sticker on the box.
Jo you did a grate job on the fitment issues and the line's match right on with the gap at the sail panel would it be better to fill it in then blend it just wondering again great job on this.
The forward gap? I'm still thinking that over a little. Ideally the factory was okay with using lead. I may add a little weld, and then shape with filler.
Another great video Barry, your a great tradesman. Did you let Mustangs Unlimited know that those P.O.S chinese quarters they sell should be tossed in a dumpster or given away for free?
Again great to look at. Barry. Shaw it with breakfast and a cup of thee.. So nice you can adjust the metal. We're I think o my.. That is never going to fit... I learn like a jakko from.you.. I don't.have a welder with gas in it though.. Only a electric one.. We're you cleu. Things together with metal Hahaha... No I made a vew things.. Made a follower for my Hatley with a oildrum on it.. Made it less wide and weld a lot on it.. 😂 Well it broke after a trip to Belgium behind my Harley. Just made it home luckily it did not broke of and made a exedent. I welded it and never used it again..😂
do the original tooling only tail panel's? have you tried the amd all metal direct I heard they fit better than dynacorn. The reason why they don't fit is because the dimensions are off on purpose so ford or other car manufactures can't sue them for copying. Its the same thing with kit cars, they build them with different proportions so they cant be sued or if you try to sue them you would lose like what happened when shelby he tried to sue factory five and lost.
Original tooling is always preferred. I have used AMD on Camaros. Love their products. Have not tried any panels from them for a Ford. I think they only make a few items for mustangs.
@@JoDaddysGarage reason I ask is I never heard of original tooling after doing a little research they make lots of panels for the 65-66 they declare that there panels are nos- new old stock which means a modern reproduction stamping to the original
Those panels are not direct fit panels they are cap overs and that's why you have fitment issues the are designed to fit over a rusty panel . If you want proper fit panels you have to get them that says direct fit or OEM everything else is cap overs
Sorry, but that is incorrect. These are not cap over panels. if they were, they wouldn't have all the flanges. You would never fit one of these over an existing panel. They also fit the wheel house correctly. Nobody makes cap over panels anymore. That was common in the 70's and 80's.
The makers of these rotten panels should be sued for false advertising in a class action lawsuit. Anyone replacing tail panels should take a bezel and see if it fits the curvature of the Tail Panel!!!!! as I went through a stack of panels at MU and not one was close with a 3/4 inch Gap in the middle!!!!!!. I pity the people that bought those Tail panels and finished the Car and then tried to fit the Bezels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ordered a silver painted Dynacorn and it fit like a glove. I am working on full 67 fastback quarters and the Dynacorn Quarters so far are fitting well.
As one of the better body men I've seen I think you would enjoy it. Thanks for what you do. I've been doing this kind of work since 76' but I've learned from you. I look forward to many more videos.
Thank you for the tip for the door section of the panel, I would never have thought about the relief cuts to push it in!
Proof positive a person can’t just sling those panels on the car and weld them up in a couple hours. I went through similar issues on my 67. The passenger side was almost perfect. The drivers side was a nightmare. In my case, it was too short going to the door jamb. I always learn something watching you.
Thanks. It's crazy how much work it takes sometimes. The best fitting panels I did were on the 68 Camaro, and they were from AMD.
I still love watching you doing these mustang's thanks
Thanks Barry, I always come away with ideas for my tool box. This was just what you needed to recharge your batteries.
Retired restoration metal smith... no panel regardless of who makes it is going to just jump onto the car , even factory NOS are rejects from the assembly line ! ........... in the bizz we say " they are better than starting with a flat sheet " ! ........... very good work on this car . You sir are a body man,not a parts changer . You worked this out quite well , be proud of this car and yourself .
My god I've watched this video probably 10 times and probably will another 10 before the spring comes lol. This will be my first time ever replacing rear quarters can't wait to get started. Good videos so much information and things I never thought about with solutions. Thanks Barry keep up the good work.
Love your other videos as well
Excellent craftsmanship - as usual...
Thank you.
Hi Barry, this is Elijah I found the name of the mustang you working on, you named it jade. Thank you for the feed back. Your work is very good you explain nicely.
Great job, wish you were here to help. nice body work on the panels.
Barry your work is simply amazing
Thanks.
look at you go with multiple camera angles, mounting the camera to the quarter as you move it to the car.... great video as always!!
Upgrades. Don't want to become stagnant.
Perfect Job man! You are a ver good metal worker! Greatings from good old Germany
just love the way you explain the process Barry, you would make a great teacher...
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice job reworking the quarter.
Thanks.
Great job on the quarter and it really shows how much effort goes into such a task.
Thanks.
Your wife is gonna love that car when you're done with it.
You, sir, are an artist. I really enjoy watching you work through these problems and appreciate you sharing your solutions. Thanks.
Wish I had your patience. Good job with those panels.
Definitely a great teaching aid on body panel repair and patience! These videos are outstanding and very informative, keep 'em coming!
Thanks so much for your videos! I'm building a 1970 Shelby Convertible clone, and unfortunately my donor car needs a bunch of rust repair! I absolutely love the way you've addressed all the issues with the wheelhouse, quarter panel lineup, taillight panel, etc! Wonderful job, and you are my absolute favorite guy when it comes to fixing the bodies on these old ponies! Keep up the good work! If I had three hands, you'd get three thumbs up!
Great job Barry. I look forward to your videos, Keep them coming.
A1 explaining just getting ready to do my 66 as chevelle
Very nice work as usual, keep the vids coming. I just made a trip to Mustangs Unlimited a couple days ago to pick up quarterpanels and outer wheel houses for my 73 mach 1. You should have seen their faces when I said I wanted to inspect and verify that the wheel houses would line up with the quarters. For the most part they did but will still be some manipulation needed. I keep watching your videos for guidance on that, so thanks for everything.
Thanks. Maybe they'll start catching on that we expect these pieces to fit each other, AND the car.
Awesome fitment on that quarter panel good job
impressive work , i look forward to seeing more on both of the Mustangs
Thank you. More to come.
looking great Barry, it takes skill to work those re-pops sometimes.
Thanks. More than I wanted to do, that's for sure.
That is gonna be one fine coupe when all done.
Nice work good to see you back on your mustang!
Top notch as always brother. The info you put in these videos.
Thanks. I want others to see what it takes.
A easy why to fill a gap by welding is to use a metal coat hanger as a filler it works great
Great work! I was going to restore a 1968 Mustang GT Fastback but I had a stroke so that killed those plans and I sold the Mustang. It's good to see all your hard work is paying off.
That is great info on that door gap, thanks
Glad you took a break from the convertible! All that suspension work looked like a giant PITA...
Incredible details Barry! Thanks for taking the effort to share this. I love learning how you are handling the issues. Cheers!
Fantastic job sir.
You show us that patience and perseverance wins every time. :-)
Nice work and thanks for sharing all your knowledge!
Thanks.
Love the vids . Go back over them all the time.
Barry , you would like using an air chisel to remove sheet metal welds. Get one with sharp v chisel cutting head..
Ian
Very informative.As always another great video.Looking forwards for up coming vids.Thanks for sharing.
you have great skills doing panel work
Thanks.
Hey Barry, at 0:28 you say "Brooklyn Pony part 25"🤣... This convertible is an obsession for you😉... For us too... I continue this "JADE" video..
Ugh... 5 hours of editing, and I didn't even notice....
I love the attention to detail , it’s gonna be sweet when it’s done 🙌🏻
Great job! Congratulations!!! Regards from Uruguay!!!
ALMOST impossible to change the entire quarter panel! Just leave it to me to find a hardest way to do something. This is my first time doing this and I melted that lead out and drilled out the spotwelds and pulled the piece out from under the sail panel. I wish I had known to not do that cause its created a lot of more work. It fits pretty good though. The only real problem I've had though is getting the wheelhouse to match the panel opening where the wheel is. I've had to cut and add metal to the wheel house to get edges mated together so I can weld them. I'm gonna do it like you did when I do the passenger side. Live and learn!!
Great video man! Thanks for what you do.
As usual another great and informative vid Sir!! Thanks! Roger
Respekt, was für eine Arbeit 😊👍 Der Mustang ist ein echtes Traumauto😊
Vielen Dank. Ich freue mich über den Kommentar. Danke fürs zuschauen.
@@JoDaddysGarage sehr gerne😊, würde gerne noch sehen wie es weiter geht oder er schon fertig ist😉 schöne Grüße 👋🎅
@@maikjakubeit6435
Ich werde mehr Videos machen, wenn es die Zeit erlaubt.
@@JoDaddysGarage ja die Zeit braucht man auch dafür, geht eine Menge von rein 🙈😊. Mein Abo und Respekt hast du aufjedenfall 😎👍
Thank you
Great Video. Well Covered.
Fantastic work mate.your videos are always very interesting to watch.
It is unfortunate that those panels don't fit better for you
You are a metal magician 👍
Thanks.
Amazing work
Hi Barry. Outstanding work. has always. And has always. I Liked,Shared and added to Playlists.
Thank you Bobby.
Hi , It's coming along , 👍
I've got to do the rear quarters on my van, hope mine fit a bit better than yours did, 😁
Thanks for sharing
Great job as always, I learned a lot from this video.👍🏻
Looks great Barry. That was alot of work on the quarter. I would still rather do that than deal with alot of rust. Hopefully the aftermarket panels will continue to get better. Thanks for the vid.
Same. But in my experience, aftermarket parts almost always fall on the "we have an idea that they might fit" rather than on the other. So long i get within 80% of the original (and my personal pet peeve, the thickness, which most repro companies don't do) i'm okay with it.
Certainly better than dealing with rusty panels.
Awesome job once again.thanks.
Love your work and love for cars🤙🤙🤙
thanks for the detailed video!
Nice video
I'd like to see how you handled the quarter extension meeting up to the tail panel. I did most of those fixes but the quarter extension sure don't match the tail panel. I've not figured out that little mess.
When I get there, I'll try to make a video.
Cool beans What is the procedure for torque box replacement?
Look at the playlist for this car. I cover that in some of the earliest videos.
You do an awesome job.👍
Great video as always. Noticed the fuel tank is still in place. How did you seal it to avoid gas fumes igniting from welding and grinding. I need to replace the tail panel on my 69 and figured tank removal was necessary for safety. Perhaps I’m over thinking.
I use wet rags and an old cup or bowl to cover the inlet. But removal is probably best.
That was awesome !!!
Man it sounds good.
what are the size of the drill holes for the spot welds? what should the gap measurement be between the back of doors and quarter panel be?
I usually drill 5/16" to 3/8" holes. It can depend on how wide the flange is. I can't say what the exact measurement should be. 3/16-1/4" normally. I like 3/16".
Is that mini Kevin Harvick. Watching you work from the trunk.
lol. Iron man.
Did the right side quarter panel have to be cut as much as the left side and did this car have the chrome piece that goes in the scoop? I was wondering if the chrome piece would fit correctly in the scoop.
The right side fit better. I did add the chrome trim in the quarter. Fit nice. There are more videos in this series, and the trim is covered.
At 21:00, how do you drill out the old spot welds when you are in the process of removal. Struggling to get to those ones. Appreciate any advice.
I cut the old quarter panel into pieces. Then grind off the welds.
By the way excellent video! Alot of patients..lol
Great job on that repop qtr I do have a question. Who makes them angle vice grips you had on the underside of the wheel well thanks in advance
Found them at Tractor Supply. $5 each.
WOW the hours to do this car ,,,, no wonder if sold would hit the 50,000 plus mark
What is the measurement from the trunk floor to the bottom of the drop which attaches to the quarter. Both of mine are 11/4" short
Barry, I have a 65 Mustang. The trunk hits on both sides. Is it possible to fix without removing quarter panels? Thanks love the stuff you video. Roger
Hmm... Send me pics. jodaddysgarage@gmail.com
Good video thanks.
How did you weld the bottom of panel to the rocker on the inside flange?
Thank you sir. I am getting ready to restore a 65 for my wife.
You can access the bottom flange through the openings where the quarter window mounts. It's pretty open at the bottom.
@@JoDaddysGarage thank you much! I havent dug in yet. I want to get started on it soon.
It's a blank canvas so I have been researching alot because I want to do a restomod. Thank you much! Love the channel.
I rebuild Camaros so I am learning alot on mustang.
Do you have a video of weld on fender flares
Sorry, I do not.
Any suggestions for installation
All I can say is double check all your fitment, and weld slowly.
Hey Joe? What welder and wire and gas mix and amps do you use?
In this video I used my Lincoln 140t.
.025 wire. Feed set at 2 and heat set at B. If you are looking for a welder, I have links in my videos for the yeswelder and arccaptain. Look them up and the discounts are in the description. Both are great welders.
Did you get those quarter panels at the church rummage sale ?
Are you sure you needed to cut the front of the quarter like that?.. and maybe not move it backwards a bit?.
Or maybe the cowl panel where the door bolts is shoved back a bit..
ehh.. I'm just Monday morning quarterbacking, sorry
I'm 50 years in the body shop biz.
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and say those quarters just weren't made right.
I try to get my quarters n such from dynacorn, cjpony, and here in Dayton Ohio we have 'Resto World' high quality Parts from a business with a great reputation.
No matter what the problem was, you do it your way and I believe it's going to look absolutely terrific. Hell..it already does ! (It's 2021 now)
I'm doin a 66 Tang GT Convertible,
Be Fenders, Hood , doors, decklid quarter panels..outer whlhse,
But original floors,Rockers,frame sections are near-perfect.
What do you suggest for filling the factory roof to rear quarter seam where it was originally lead on GM A body?
I typically use a fiber stranded filler. Roughing the sheet metal helps it stay. There may be other options, but that's what I use.
Barry,
That camshaft sounds good with that automatic transmission equipped pony. Can you tell me what camshaft it is?
I'd have to check my records. I thought I posted it in a previous video.
@@JoDaddysGarage Thanks for the reply, I'll look through the videos if you can't come up with it.
Competition cam. SK31-216-2 .447 lift. It's posted in the video description for the exhaust.
@@JoDaddysGarage Barry, thanks so much for the reply. Your documentation of the 68 has been a real help for me with my similar 67. I know the slight differences from the two model years and actually installed an OE collapsing steering column from a donor 68 into my 67. That solid steering shaft in the pre 68 cars is dangerous. Thanks again for taking the time.
What gauge welding wire did you use on the quarter panel? .024 or .030? 38:59
.024 for sheet metal.
@@JoDaddysGarage
Thanks for the quick response! That’s what I thought….
What is the piece above the quarter panel and below the roof, where the body line is
Meaning? The piece I saved from the original quarter?
I need to replace the quarter panel but i am looking for the piece or pilar between the roof and quarter panel, i have phoyos is there abyway to contact you ?
I'm not sure if they sell those. Send pics to jodaddysgarage@gmail.com
Have you ever used Dynacorn sheet metal ?
I have used some that is labeled Dynacorn, and some that is actual Dynacorn. All the silver panels (weld thru primer) are theirs from what I know. The black panels (fenders, quarters, doors) are typically the same as any other. They just put their sticker on the box.
Jo you did a grate job on the fitment issues and the line's match right on with the gap at the sail panel would it be better to fill it in then blend it just wondering again great job on this.
The forward gap? I'm still thinking that over a little. Ideally the factory was okay with using lead. I may add a little weld, and then shape with filler.
Awesome as usual ....
Thanks Robert.
That looks like a real nightmare getting those panels lined up.
Still better than some of the collision stuff I've done.
Great job! Those long butt welds! How did you manage to avoid warpage? Do you use 0.23 wire?
I take my time, and spread out the welds. Yes, .023 wire.
What size wire are you using
.023
Another great video Barry, your a great tradesman. Did you let Mustangs Unlimited know that those P.O.S chinese quarters they sell should be tossed in a dumpster or given away for free?
Thanks. I haven't.
Again great to look at. Barry. Shaw it with breakfast and a cup of thee.. So nice you can adjust the metal. We're I think o my.. That is never going to fit... I learn like a jakko from.you.. I don't.have a welder with gas in it though.. Only a electric one.. We're you cleu. Things together with metal Hahaha... No I made a vew things.. Made a follower for my Hatley with a oildrum on it.. Made it less wide and weld a lot on it.. 😂 Well it broke after a trip to Belgium behind my Harley. Just made it home luckily it did not broke of and made a exedent. I welded it and never used it again..😂
Thanks. Experience is invaluable.
What MIG wire are you using?
Lincoln 140T
Which wire? Just a standard wire or did you find an easy grind wire? I’ve heard good things about ESAB’s easy grind.
Wow!
do the original tooling only tail panel's? have you tried the amd all metal direct I heard they fit better than dynacorn. The reason why they don't fit is because the dimensions are off on purpose so ford or other car manufactures can't sue them for copying. Its the same thing with kit cars, they build them with different proportions so they cant be sued or if you try to sue them you would lose like what happened when shelby he tried to sue factory five and lost.
Original tooling is always preferred. I have used AMD on Camaros. Love their products. Have not tried any panels from them for a Ford. I think they only make a few items for mustangs.
@@JoDaddysGarage is that all original tooling make that 1 panel-the tail panel ?
@@fasterdrive221 All the pieces on the rear of this car are aftermarket. I think you can only get original tooling for the 65-66
@@JoDaddysGarage reason I ask is I never heard of original tooling after doing a little research they make lots of panels for the 65-66 they declare that there panels are nos- new old stock which means a modern reproduction stamping to the original
@@fasterdrive221 I have used the tail panels made on original tooling. Fit nearly perfect.
What happened to the convertible???
Wayne Brogdon he Wil do that also.. It's called the new York pony
Still being worked on.
Those panels are not direct fit panels they are cap overs and that's why you have fitment issues the are designed to fit over a rusty panel . If you want proper fit panels you have to get them that says direct fit or OEM everything else is cap overs
Sorry, but that is incorrect. These are not cap over panels. if they were, they wouldn't have all the flanges. You would never fit one of these over an existing panel. They also fit the wheel house correctly. Nobody makes cap over panels anymore. That was common in the 70's and 80's.
The makers of these rotten panels should be sued for false advertising in a class action lawsuit. Anyone replacing tail panels should take a bezel and see if it fits the curvature of the Tail Panel!!!!! as I went through a stack of panels at MU and not one was close with a 3/4 inch Gap in the middle!!!!!!. I pity the people that bought those Tail panels and finished the Car and then tried to fit the Bezels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ordered a silver painted Dynacorn and it fit like a glove. I am working on full 67 fastback quarters and the Dynacorn Quarters so far are fitting well.
Good advice.
Are you shying away from the lead work or am I missing something?
I've never worked with lead. I have removed it before, but never re-applied.
As one of the better body men I've seen I think you would enjoy it. Thanks for what you do. I've been doing this kind of work since 76' but I've learned from you. I look forward to many more videos.
Your guarter side has no place for a marker lens like the guys 1968 convertible in Canada
Yes. 68 was a transition year. Some had a recess, others were flush. I went with the smooth look as I won't be adding the markers.
Iron Man!
:o)