I've never seen a more thorough, more detailed, more exactness how to series of videos. My friend, you are a Master Craftsman in every aspect of automotive restoration with an attention to easy to understand explanation of the why's and how-to's! Tremendous!
This video is a great example of going the extra mile to achieve a proper transition from door to fender (and door to quarter). I've seen a lot of so-called high end paint jobs where the door or fender seem to taper into each other (they don't look like they fit together). Thanks for sharing your talent.
I love the level of detail. This is the kind of stuff you can't find on television and most internet sites.. For those that can't appreciate it, are likely hacks or will just never understand.
nice job as always...I like to think I might be that dedicated to detail... I just went back to show the initial episode to my son and was amazed this started two years ago..time flies
Great work Jo, when I do the same fit up each time I wipe on some filler I wait for the filler to just set up and drag a hacksaw blade down the gap, this allows you to keep an eye on where the gap is and makes it easier to open the gap back up
Thanks for the video Barry, I have the same fitment issues with the front fender extensions on my 73 fastback. Mine are cast metal, so when I was fitting them, a pair of channel lock pliers really helped with making them line up better, not perfect but better that they were. Good transitioning from fender to door to quarter panel work, I may have to try that myself when I get to that stage. Thanks as always and please keep the videos coming.
Bary its amazing what you have done with that car. The attention to detail in everthing. Thank you👍 I still like the plane steelies with the Wide Ovals tires.😊
Razor blade the gap when the bondo gets cheesy saves lots of time. You can even tape 2 razor blades to a paint stick it is almost the perfect width to cut the mud out of the gaps
Barry I think this would be one of the more challenging things to do. I have never tried it but can certainly see myself adding more filler where I messed up in the cutting out the groove part. Looks great!
You have been doing a great job on the car and your videos are spot on to do the job right . I would like to give you a bit of advice from a old bodyman , that is try to bring your work up to you . Set your car on some good stands so you don,t have to bend over so much . you will be spending a lot of time sanding and blocking on the sides so save you back . I hope this will be of some help to you like you are trying to help others . Nice job and thanks for the videos . Be well !
Thanks Nick. That is good advice. I really should do that, but I like the car to be on it's wheels. More natural stance to what it will be when it's done.
I made some tire stands that lifts the car up and also supports it by the wheels. You are right that you don't want to alter the gaps by incorrectly supporting the car. Some guys put ballast weight in to mimic the engine weight.
This has been really informative. Thanks. I don't know if you will read this because it is an older video, but you made the door match the fender before putting in the weather stripping on the door. Will that effect the alignment? Did you have your door latch installed - does that locate the closed position of the door?
I try to read all of the comments. The latch is in the door. That sets the alignment. It would be really difficult to make adjustments with the seal in place. After everything is finished and painted, I'll adjust the seal as necessary for proper fitment.
Thanks Barry for another insightful video, I'll be using that technique in the near future, my 65 is ready for media blast and then epoxy primer to seal it and then let the fun begin.
Do you typically work the doors and front fenders off the car and then fit the panels and seams and then do this leveling procedure? Or do you leave the doors and fenders on?
I couldn't see any of those flaws until you put the filler on and started sanding it down. I'm assuming you could see more in person. I'm spraying everything in black epoxy on my car which helps. It has enough surface sheen to show up problems and you can particularly see them across gaps if you sand across it. The epoxy I'm spraying can be sanded but it is kind of tough about like sanding fiberglass filler. I used this technique you are showing to do the final fit on my rear quarter extensions. I did what I call the gross level adjustment and fitting to get them as close as possible then used a thin coat of filler to get them as close to perfectly straight as possible. You did something similar on one of the cars you restored or it may be this car. I don't remember.
Barry curious to know if you’ve ever tried the technique where you leave some fishing line or string in the gap and then pull it back through the gap before the filler is fully cured? It seems like a good idea but I’ve never tried it.
Thank you for your videos. I have watched just about every one. Im working on my first project 65 mustang and about to tackle the rear quarter. One question i was going to ask, Is it ok to put filler over epoxy? maybe just scuff the epoxy prior? Looks like thats what you did here. Thanks
Thanks Barry for showing us how to flaten doors and fender. Can you please tell me the name of the machine. I like to get one here in NZ. Wat happend to your hat. Good job Barry, thanks.
Are you worried about the weight of the door glass and hardware changing bodylines on you after spending all this time setting them up? I saw another channel where after painting the car they had to readjust the door to fix bodylines.
A second thought though - it should not change the body lines right? The goal would be to adjust the panels to get them back to this weightless position. I think it just is much easier if you have the weight up front?
After all the materials and time spent on this technique. Do You think it is better to search for oem body panels instead of buying dynacorn? I made a promise to myself that ill never buy Taiwan panels again. Floor pans are a different thing. But doors fenders hood trunk. No way
Hello I been subscribe for awhile an been watching everything!! I can’t’ say thank you enough for human beings like you!! So I started to restore my 1966 mustang an I have a few patches I would like to fill. I don’t want to spend 1000 bucks, maybe a few hundred. Do you have any recommendations on welders that Welds an get the job done.
I realize projects like this, especially quality work, takes time but you're twenty four months in to it so I was wondering when do you see it being completed and headed back to the customer? Just curious.
Good question. Since I don't charge by the hour, and do this as a side thing, I don't put myself under a ton of stress to finish. I'd love to have it done and gone though.
Most of your build is spot on, but. The bonds on the jams not so much. Give it time and it will haunt you. People will Sell ’ a restore car after work like this starts to come apart.
It was always myunderstnding that plastic filler needed to be applied to ground metal, so...when I saw you begin to slather bondo on top of primer regardless of how it is sanded or cleaned at 4:15... I stopped watching..
Bondo mobile. I hate bondo and won't use it unless needed. They were not perfect out of the factory so when I see too much perfection and OCD then the owner never wants to drive it cause then it's too perfect and might get hurt on the road.
one time i put a fender on a toyota and the customer complained for 2 hours about the gaps ,, i got pissed and smashed his head into that fender it looked like someone busted a water melon on that fender i was roally pissed
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I learned what I need to do for my Stang. Thank You!
I've never seen a more thorough, more detailed, more exactness how to series of videos. My friend, you are a Master Craftsman in every aspect of automotive restoration with an attention to easy to understand explanation of the why's and how-to's!
Tremendous!
Thanks! I appreciate the comment.
People (Iike me) are still watching these videos. Thanks for the expertise!
You have best channel. I cant stop watching your channel. Excellent grantsmanship. Thank you for taking so much time to show us all of the detail.
This video is a great example of going the extra mile to achieve a proper transition from door to fender (and door to quarter). I've seen a lot of so-called high end paint jobs where the door or fender seem to taper into each other (they don't look like they fit together). Thanks for sharing your talent.
The Brooklyn Pony series needs to be RENAMED! CONCOURSE RESTORATION Brooklyn Pony 👍. great work sir
I love the level of detail. This is the kind of stuff you can't find on television and most internet sites.. For those that can't appreciate it, are likely hacks or will just never understand.
Thanks so much as always. We watch a 30 vid and think it’ll take us an hour to do it. But everything takes time.
nice job as always...I like to think I might be that dedicated to detail... I just went back to show the initial episode to my son and was amazed this started two years ago..time flies
Great work Jo, when I do the same fit up each time I wipe on some filler I wait for the filler to just set up and drag a hacksaw blade down the gap, this allows you to keep an eye on where the gap is and makes it easier to open the gap back up
Great information. I try never to miss your videos, since I'm now retired and work on my Mustangs which are a 1964.5 and a 1966. Thanks a lot.
Thanks I'm getting ready to start restoring my 68 Nova and your videos have been a great help and insight to what I am going to do.
Thanks for the video Barry, I have the same fitment issues with the front fender extensions on my 73 fastback. Mine are cast metal, so when I was fitting them, a pair of channel lock pliers really helped with making them line up better, not perfect but better that they were. Good transitioning from fender to door to quarter panel work, I may have to try that myself when I get to that stage. Thanks as always and please keep the videos coming.
Wonderful video. I appreciate your skills and thank you for sharing them.
hi very nice work the car is going is look very good .
Bary its amazing what you have done with that car. The attention to detail in everthing.
Thank you👍
I still like the plane steelies with the Wide Ovals tires.😊
Looking forward for the next Fender video keep up the good job.🤘
Razor blade the gap when the bondo gets cheesy saves lots of time. You can even tape 2 razor blades to a paint stick it is almost the perfect width to cut the mud out of the gaps
Very true. The reason I leave it solid is so that there is no chance of movement as I'm sanding.
When I grow up I wanna be just like you.! Man, I would make a wreck of things with that angle grinder/sander.
I like your hair cut
THANK YOU...for sharing. Fantastic work. Great attention to detail, Pony looking good.
Barry I think this would be one of the more challenging things to do. I have never tried it but can certainly see myself adding more filler where I messed up in the cutting out the groove part. Looks great!
Very cool videos.
I cut my gaps when filler is gelling up with a little tool I made with razors.
😎
Hands on cars video by Eastwood showed i paint stick with 2 razors for cutting the gap.
You have been doing a great job on the car and your videos are spot on to do the job right . I would like to give you a bit of advice from a old bodyman , that is try to bring your work up to you . Set your car on some good stands so you don,t have to bend over so much . you will be spending a lot of time sanding and blocking on the sides so save you back . I hope this will be of some help to you like you are trying to help others . Nice job and thanks for the videos . Be well !
Thanks Nick. That is good advice. I really should do that, but I like the car to be on it's wheels. More natural stance to what it will be when it's done.
I made some tire stands that lifts the car up and also supports it by the wheels. You are right that you don't want to alter the gaps by incorrectly supporting the car. Some guys put ballast weight in to mimic the engine weight.
Great video again Barry!
Sure is looking nice Barry!
Jo every so often use a stiff brush on the sand planner clean up paper great video nice tip's.
Thanks. I normally use a blow nozzle.
Awesome "how to" on panel fitment.
Thank you for the excellent videos. :-)
I know this car is going to look amazing 👍
This has been really informative. Thanks. I don't know if you will read this because it is an older video, but you made the door match the fender before putting in the weather stripping on the door. Will that effect the alignment? Did you have your door latch installed - does that locate the closed position of the door?
I try to read all of the comments. The latch is in the door. That sets the alignment. It would be really difficult to make adjustments with the seal in place. After everything is finished and painted, I'll adjust the seal as necessary for proper fitment.
Thanks Barry for another insightful video, I'll be using that technique in the near future, my 65 is ready for media blast and then epoxy primer to seal it and then let the fun begin.
Do you typically work the doors and front fenders off the car and then fit the panels and seams and then do this leveling procedure? Or do you leave the doors and fenders on?
It depends. Old doors and fenders that need work, I do repair them first. These are new panels, so I place them on the car and modify as necessary.
I couldn't see any of those flaws until you put the filler on and started sanding it down. I'm assuming you could see more in person. I'm spraying everything in black epoxy on my car which helps. It has enough surface sheen to show up problems and you can particularly see them across gaps if you sand across it. The epoxy I'm spraying can be sanded but it is kind of tough about like sanding fiberglass filler. I used this technique you are showing to do the final fit on my rear quarter extensions. I did what I call the gross level adjustment and fitting to get them as close as possible then used a thin coat of filler to get them as close to perfectly straight as possible. You did something similar on one of the cars you restored or it may be this car. I don't remember.
Excellent work on this as always Barry ! Been trying to catch up on you vids.
Likewise.
Opening the door just before the filler starts to harden opens up the seam without the use of the cutoff wheel!
Hand sanding with flat board is much better
Barry curious to know if you’ve ever tried the technique where you leave some fishing line or string in the gap and then pull it back through the gap before the filler is fully cured? It seems like a good idea but I’ve never tried it.
I have not tried that
Did you change your front suspension ie mustang 2 or tci, what system do you like best
I was provided with a suspension kit from TCI. Videos in the Brooklyn Pony playlist.
@@JoDaddysGarage I have a 66 conv I'm redoing and am considering the TCI
Great info thanks
Thank you for your videos. I have watched just about every one. Im working on my first project 65 mustang and about to tackle the rear quarter. One question i was going to ask, Is it ok to put filler over epoxy? maybe just scuff the epoxy prior? Looks like thats what you did here. Thanks
You can. The epoxy needs to be fully cured though. It will need to be scuffed as well.
Great stuff!
Thanks Barry for showing us how to flaten doors and fender. Can you please tell me the name of the machine. I like to get one here in NZ. Wat happend to your hat. Good job Barry, thanks.
My hat kept getting in the way... Here's a video from my other channel detailing the sander. ruclips.net/video/4ntFcQJnNyI/видео.html
very good
New viewer, here from Delaware.
Do you have any videos on doing a Nova?
Hi Jim. I do not have any Nova videos, sorry. I have some Camaro videos from several years ago.
Are you worried about the weight of the door glass and hardware changing bodylines on you after spending all this time setting them up? I saw another channel where after painting the car they had to readjust the door to fix bodylines.
That can be an issue. I have had to adjust doors on other cars.
I was thinking this as well. they make weights to simulate the hardware. But great video regardless!
A second thought though - it should not change the body lines right? The goal would be to adjust the panels to get them back to this weightless position. I think it just is much easier if you have the weight up front?
After all the materials and time spent on this technique. Do You think it is better to search for oem body panels instead of buying dynacorn? I made a promise to myself that ill never buy Taiwan panels again. Floor pans are a different thing. But doors fenders hood trunk. No way
Hi Barry, when will part 32 be shown.
Working on it.
Hello I been subscribe for awhile an been watching everything!! I can’t’ say thank you enough for human beings like you!! So I started to restore my 1966 mustang an I have a few patches I would like to fill. I don’t want to spend 1000 bucks, maybe a few hundred. Do you have any recommendations on welders that Welds an get the job done.
This is the welder I've been using. Works great. You will still need a gas bottle. www.amazon.com/LINCOLN-SP-140T-WIRE-WELDER-K2688-1/dp/B001IZEYTO
Where's the hats at ?????
Lewis martin working on it.
I realize projects like this, especially quality work, takes time but you're twenty four months in to it so I was wondering when do you see it being completed and headed back to the customer? Just curious.
Good question. Since I don't charge by the hour, and do this as a side thing, I don't put myself under a ton of stress to finish. I'd love to have it done and gone though.
Jake is kind of violent, no need to hop into such gory detail.
Do you have a Instagram account? If so I just got a 69 Mach 1 and it definitely gonna need alot of metal work. Will have questions along the way.
Yes I have an instagram. Same name. Also the same for my facebook page.
the best way to deal with people that complain about a stupid door gap is smash thier head right through the door glass ,, it works great no problem
Most of your build is spot on, but. The bonds on the jams not so much. Give it time and it will haunt you. People will Sell ’ a restore car after work like this starts to come apart.
There won't be much, if any filler in the jamb itself. As I said, I still have some clean up to do.
It was always myunderstnding that plastic filler needed to be applied to ground metal, so...when I saw you begin to slather bondo on top of primer regardless of how it is sanded or cleaned at 4:15... I stopped watching..
It is epoxy primer. It is different than high build or sandable primer.
Understood. There are different viewpoint on this. A lot of the issues with epoxy are because people don't wait for it to fully cure.
Why is ironman starring at the garage door........lol
Destiny...
First👍
Love this channel and I’ve been following you for a long time! Do you have an email address by any chance? Thanks!
jodaddysgarage@gmail.com
Bondo mobile. I hate bondo and won't use it unless needed. They were not perfect out of the factory so when I see too much perfection and OCD then the owner never wants to drive it cause then it's too perfect and might get hurt on the road.
Feel free to do your cars your way. Thanks.
I should of never sold my 69 coupe
one time i put a fender on a toyota and the customer complained for 2 hours about the gaps ,, i got pissed and smashed his head into that fender it looked like someone busted a water melon on that fender i was roally pissed