Folks...I hope you enjoy today's video! I put some links in here for ya...I literally had fuel problems on the farm over and over again until I started using this stuff! NOT ONE PROBLEM SINCE!! Please ....share your diesel fuel nightmare and success stories in the comments! Josh
Wife and i had trucks in ND for two yrs and never had a problem. We used Howe"s diesel treat with every fillup. I did some reaserch and Howes was rated one of the best. PService was said to carry the water through the system which can cause problems. 😊Howes is suppost to mix with the water. Just what i have read. It worked for us besides raising our fuel milage a 1/2 mi to the gallon which more than paid for the Howes.😂
Working for the railroad as a machine operator I’ve noticed they don’t use little lines coming out of tank no screens on outlet of fuel tank but large lines to feed the fist filter which is a bigger filter then to the normal filters on side of engine I guess the ideal is get the trash out of the tank I have tractors and other equipment and have been broke down many times for a little trash trying to get out of tank thinking about doing the same as the railroad
Hi from England . back in 82 we had diesel freezing . I knew other owner drivers used a bottle of stuff to stop it freezing but no im not having that . to rely on some one having the additive or not you could be off the road waiting a while . so i fitted a water pipe from the engine down to the fuel line to the tank and back up to the engine , the 4 pipes feed and return of water and diesel i wrapped with insulation tape . that gave me a heated line coming from the tank and hotter going back , from that i never got stuck ... a few years later i welded shit trap tanks on the bottom of my tanks 8x6" that removed all the water and dirt a constant cleaning system that only needed movement to work , i drained the crap into a bucket once a year , i didnt use many filters after that and didnt have any problems with pump or injectors ...
Your IP problems are probably related to the new fuel. When I was in Iraq in 09 we were having a LOT of problems with the Humvees but no problems with the MRAPs. We got researching and found that 2 years prior(2007) the fuel switched from 500ppm sulfur to 15ppm sulfur. In the old IPs (humvee 6.5 diesel) the sulfur actually worked like a lubricant while the newer CRD (MRAP is international truck platform) didn't have that issue because there's no IP. Our solution was anytime we filled a Humvee we put a quart of ATF in the tank first. Miraculously we stopped losing injector pumps. Might want to start adding a little ATF for those old diesels to help with the lubrication.
You need to run a dual filter system a d add two,cycle oil to the fuel on older tractors they removed the lubricant from it the new stuff is salasilc acid it absorbed water and drops out of the fuel looks like powdered sugar on the bottom of the tank then the hi pressure pump and injectors scuff and need rebuild if parts are available but the tier 4 emissions are to much of a pain to upkeep
In around 2005-2007 diesel fuel in the United States was changed to Ultra Low Sulfur diesel. Lowering the sulfur lowered the lubricity in diesel fuel. I’d recommend running an additive that cleans and adds lubricant. I use HotShot EDT with winter defense and Amsoil diesel all in one additive.
Tub towels are great. I remember tearing down and rebuilding old engines with Dad, old school clean up oil.and grease afterwards was a pan of deisel fuel and then wash off with some Lava soap.
Luckily, I’ve never had a problem with my 1982 Ford 4610, I run home heating oil in it and add some two cycle oil along with power service or howes or Lucas, same with my 1720 ford.
Correction---- Bung, plug to close barrel eg beer. Tank fitting for fuel tap---- bulkhead fitting~ Top up fuel tank after work to minimize condensation.
Hey Josh. A lil information for you. I've had a diesel since 2004. I 100% agree with you about power service products. I've been using it for decades. My 6.0 powerstroke had 461,000+ miles before it cracked a head. As you, I use to use the power service, ie: white bottle. Until I called Power Service and spoke to a technical service representative. You are correct about the clear diesel is for cleaning the fuel system. The power service is ment for burning in the winter. It has a anti gel properties. The diesel kleen in the grey bottle is for everyday use. It conditions your fuel and anyone who uses it on a regular basis will NOT ever have issues with water in your fuel system. All of my friends that have diesel trucks have at one time or another had diesel issues except me. I have NEVER in a truck that has over 500,000 miles on it ever had water in my diesel. Water in diesel is not the problem. The water causes algae, the algae causes acid that eats your fuel system from the inside, filters, strainers, the old strainer ended up in being the big hunk of junk you pulled out the first time you worked on that fuel system, rubber, coatings, injectors tips and o-rings. Ie: the trash that you pulled out on this video.
different in a truck/car v/s a tractor that sits. I don't have these problems if I'm really running the crap out of my machines...it's when they sit out in the weather we start having bad issues. Now..this 2910 is a new tractor to the farm and that's why we're having the issues with it...fuel tanks on tractors are exposed to the sun more so than the fuel tank under the belly of your truck, that's why we're having more problems. My ram 2500 cummins is 25 years old and has no issues just like your trucks...never had water in them...because the tank doesn't sweat like the exposed tanks in the tractors and transfer tanks in my truck bed. That's why in my opinion. Interesting info on the power service product...thanks so much!
You will probably find the old plastic filter in the tank laying in tank. I take a piece of aluminum screen wire about 3" by 5" and roll a tight multi-layer tube around a 16 penny nail and pinch one end flat. I stuff that into the shut off instead of the plastic screen and it allows more fuel flow without clogging like the plastic one. I also keep a spare aluminum screen in toolbox for field change. Put a little tiny amount of borax or boric acid in tank to keep bacteria from growing. I have tried all kinds of additives including the ones you show but nothing is perfect especially on equipment that sits occasionally; current diesel is bad since they took sulfur out.
never mind the gunk in the fuel tank, the other issue I had with my 5000 Ford was many of the plastic "filters" in the bottom of my tank. mechanics wire and a brake line to get them out and lots of brake cleaner to rinse the tank out (just removing the cowl is a pain in the butt!). I run road diesel from the same fuel station as my diesel truck, so far so good.
road diesel is exactly the same fuel as off road my brother...one is dyed to show that ya didn't pay tax on it in case the G man pulls ya over. Look it up, I was surprised...you probably already know this though
i was once working with a guy replacing a motor that need to be torqued in place we had no torqued wrench so I just did them till I thought they had the right tightness. well we came back the next day with one. I had done those 4 bolts with a lbs. Got he nick name of Human Torque Wench on that job. Ya I had used such that much that I can feel the tightness of a nut or bolt. Still use the wrench to be sure but Im veery close to right on without
Been using Power Service for decades and it's been very reliable at stabilizing fuel storage, used it on every fillup on my NaviStar ProStar for years and my F-250 has a 128 gal tank in the bed... during the V-Khina time, my duel tank lasted me 3 years with a ton on of just sittin there :)
All the fuel coming out now is junk doesn't matter if it's diesel or gas as it attracts moisture. Back in 05 when they came out with this stuff. Back then I had a 21 foot boat that had an 85 gallon gas tank. I ran the boat almost completely out of gas before filling it with Ethanol gas. I had no choice in the matter. Shortly after putting the gas in my engine started having problems. It didn't happen once but 4 times. Each time the fuel pump was going out. It cost me close to $3,000 in repairs. Eventually Mercury sent a tech out to check it out. He determined that it was the gas causing the problem. Because the 3-4 gallons left in the tank caused a phase seperation. I had to pump every bit of gas out of the boat at a cost of $865. Ethanol gas is the worst stuff ever invented.
seems like the old ford's entire fuel system needs a thorough cleaning -- tank, lines, pump, injectors, filter & housing, water separator & housing. I would bet the tank needs to be de-rusted and re-lined.
As old as it is take the tank off it and clean the tank out. Had a 1920 ford do the same think 4 times took fuel tank off cleaned it and it's been two years now no problem.
Back in the day working on my 70's vintage car, one of the first things I learned was: if it isn't starting then check fuel n fire. 99 percent of the time the problem would be either lack of fuel or lack of fire (ignition). It's a fair mental model to troubleshoot problems. Track / check fuel delivery system. Track / check ignition (for gas powered). I suppose that for diesel also track / check airflow, after fuel.
Ever since the EPA mandated ultra low sulfur diesel fuel, the high pressure injection pumps have had wear issues which lower the pressure to the injectors. Lower injector pressure means poor engine performance. The common fix has been to dump a quart of automatic transmission fluid into the tank along with the diesel fuel. The down side is if you get stopped at a DOT check point, the pink tinge of the automatic transmission fluid gives the appearance of being dyed non-taxed fuel. The best thing you can do with any diesel engine is to run a good secondary fuel pump, and the best water separator/filter possible, run in series, not a all in one assembly. The other thing to watch is to only purchase diesel fuel from high volume dealers, same goes for vehicles that require DEF. As you've found out the hard way, frequent changes of the DEF filter are a must. You being in North Carolina, probably don't see the winter blend diesel fuel that has an anti-gel additive. Most of the diesel fuel treatments also aid in acting as a gel dissolver and system cleaner.
Another way so you don't run into that proplem of making your Diesel fuel looking like Off Highway/ Farm Diesel is to use a good high sulfer lubricant like break in oil. Add about 2-3 oz to your tank at each fill up.
Bio fuel.. dont ya love it.. 😬🙄.. cant remember the percentage in diesel but it doesn't like long term storage.. Wonder if thats on purpose 🤔... stay safe 🏴..
well what do u know I use it to just as u do. Only mine are 2 169 horse 3 little 40 ones and 5 trucks of dif size. Bty they are all pre 1995 bout for my Kubota a '19. I like the little one for doing little things but it has one draw back. it is its 2 fuel system filters. They put one right on the engine. essay to get at and replace. the other one is put where it is next to impossible to get at. Had fuel problems in past replace engine filter gone. With 1500 hr I have not replaced that other filter and it is same as one on engine. Now how the 2nd filter gets plugged before the 1st is a very big (?).
a stand pipe with filter on it made of something that will dissolve in fuel. Ya good idea (Not as Pinky would say) Seen guys do this by making one themselves out of things they have laying around. They use Copper pipe with holes drilled in with veery fine copper screen. The guys I seen do this are older teaching younger how to and are restoring old vehicles to resell. They make them easy to replace too just as the one in ur hand is. Wonder if they sell just thew filter without the stand pipe or if made where u have to buy all new when it gives up.
I have an old 2810 that has been sitting a while. I plan on following your video to clean out the diesel system. I was wondering if, are those filters replaceable and where can I get them? Btw, thanks for another awesome video.
Amazon...Here's a link for ya...I couldn't find just the filter but the whole setup was fairly cheap amzn.to/3ZrziWb this is an affiliate link which earns commissions I'm required to tell ya, no more expensive for you, but this is one of the many ways I earn a living
it won't stop that algae from growing in your tanks my friend....I'm telling ya, this has saved me so much time and grief. The water in fuel sensor is the last line of defense...the first line is that filter inside your tank that will clog up quickly if you get algae from condensation my brother
every time fuel comes to the farm it gets this treatment.....every gallon that goes in equipment. Typically I fill up the tank on the back of my truck a few times a year, I just add it right at the pump when I fill it up
On older tractors and equipment you are time ahead to just drain and pull the fuel tank and give it a complete and serious cleaning. Decades of filth will be found.
Old ford tractor I bought to fix and flip had a red shop rag and handfulls of hay chafe in its fuel tank. That was the worst. Most all others had slime issues and a lot of dirt in their tanks. Drain, pull, and used a pressure washer to clean them. Except my backhoe: that had to go to a radiator shop for chem dip because it was so bad.
Mine is a Ford 1910 Roll bar Simms cab (with the snap on tarp/vinyl sides with zippers ha), Duer front loader. Just went out and looked. OH, she'll start. Almost fell on my butt from the snow. I'm wearing my, windsurfer 'slippers'. I refuse to buy, Pillow man slippers! haha WOOO!! Thank you voters! Wooo!!! 🔴⚪🔵🦃
techron is supposed to make your engine run cleaner, but it's not an algaecide as far as I know. I still use it, but power service has been my go to for condensation and algae prevention for years before I started using Techron
I use power service too. It keeps diesel knock down some and a bit more power with the cetane boost. Some of those problems are probably biological growth thats plugging up your cut off valve. I put two stroke oil in my fuel too to add the lubricity back into it since they have removed the sulphur which acted as a lubricant in the fuel system.. The fuel available when that tractor was new and designed for was very different than todays fuel.
Lava in my shower....tub o towels in every vehicle/shop and corner of the shop. They are great for on the go...and keeping the kitchen sink from looking like a shop class lol
I hear of folks doing that...but with modern diesel emissions systems I'd be weary...I do know that since I started using power service all of my fuel problems stopped...that was 5-6 years ago...I just bought this tractor and it's been hell ever since!! I also have another one I bought with similar issues! GRRR
What a poor design for a diesel fuel system. Fuel should be pulled from the top, should have a drain valve at the bottom, my tank has a 3/4" valve, very convenient to drain sediment. To put a gravity fed valve at the bottom of a fuel tank with a fuel pump is crazy. That tank should've been tin lined or epoxy lined
Over the past 36 years I've owned 7 different diesel tractors, a diesel car and twin marine diesels in my boat, and have NEVER had a fuel issue. NEVER. Yes, ... diesel fuel SUCKS. It's DIRTY, ... it absorbs water. So DON'T use it. I run all my diesels on KEROSENE. Always have. Red, "off-road" KEROSENE.
you run a $100,000 tractor on kerosene and have never had an issue....interesting. I've never heard of "off road" kerosene....must be something where you live....off road diesel is dyed red but kerosene should be clear or bluish
None, ... and the engine oil stays very clean, as well. People will routinely run their diesels on filtered deep fryer fat and other sorts of very low grade fuel ( which burns hotter inside the engine ) without a second thought, but are surprised that a cleaner, cooler running fuel, that does NOT gel in cold weather might be a viable solution. In cold climates "winter formula" diesel is routinely provided for on-road use. The "winter formula" is as high as 50/50% kerosene and diesel. The only legal difference between "on-road" and "off-road" diesel, is the highway use tax built into the cost of "on-road" diesel.
K-1 kerosene is clear, and best suited for lamps, lanterns and indoor heating and cooking with kerosene stoves. The red dye in un-taxed kerosene signifies the presence of sulfur added as a lubricant in the fuel. The green dye in "on-road" diesel fuel indicates that the fuel has been taxed for highway use. In cold climates kerosene is routinely added to "on-road' diesel fuel to prevent the fuel from gelling. ( I've been running a pair of 3208 Caterpillars in my fishing boat since 1990, ( going on 4,000 hours ) with ZERO fuel related problems. )
Josh that is a lot of sediment/ rust deposits. Funny reference to Bevis & Bud Head much the same as a beer or whiskey barrel holey-o just got into 55 gallon barrel of diesel today, rust in a tank is a nuisance. Cause hydroscopic attraction, wonder why it's different now?
That wee filter will give you torture. What I do is add a wee bit of pime on first then put filter on top of that. Saves it sucking gunk of the arse of the tank
Ancient tractors are not designed to run clean modern diesel. The fuel did not kill the pump, and diesel is not "garbage". You're running the wrong fuel in the machine.
Folks...I hope you enjoy today's video! I put some links in here for ya...I literally had fuel problems on the farm over and over again until I started using this stuff! NOT ONE PROBLEM SINCE!! Please ....share your diesel fuel nightmare and success stories in the comments! Josh
Wife and i had trucks in ND for two yrs and never had a problem. We used Howe"s diesel treat with every fillup. I did some reaserch and Howes was rated one of the best. PService was said to carry the water through the system which can cause problems. 😊Howes is suppost to mix with the water. Just what i have read. It worked for us besides raising our fuel milage a 1/2 mi to the gallon which more than paid for the Howes.😂
Working for the railroad as a machine operator I’ve noticed they don’t use little lines coming out of tank no screens on outlet of fuel tank but large lines to feed the fist filter which is a bigger filter then to the normal filters on side of engine I guess the ideal is get the trash out of the tank I have tractors and other equipment and have been broke down many times for a little trash trying to get out of tank thinking about doing the same as the railroad
Remove tank, add a pound of bb shot and 16oz fuel and shake, shake, shake. Drain. Rinse. Done.
I’ve done that with small stones works great
Hi from England . back in 82 we had diesel freezing . I knew other owner drivers used a bottle of stuff to stop it freezing but no im not having that . to rely on some one having the additive or not you could be off the road waiting a while . so i fitted a water pipe from the engine down to the fuel line to the tank and back up to the engine , the 4 pipes feed and return of water and diesel i wrapped with insulation tape . that gave me a heated line coming from the tank and hotter going back , from that i never got stuck ... a few years later i welded shit trap tanks on the bottom of my tanks 8x6" that removed all the water and dirt a constant cleaning system that only needed movement to work , i drained the crap into a bucket once a year , i didnt use many filters after that and didnt have any problems with pump or injectors ...
Your IP problems are probably related to the new fuel. When I was in Iraq in 09 we were having a LOT of problems with the Humvees but no problems with the MRAPs. We got researching and found that 2 years prior(2007) the fuel switched from 500ppm sulfur to 15ppm sulfur. In the old IPs (humvee 6.5 diesel) the sulfur actually worked like a lubricant while the newer CRD (MRAP is international truck platform) didn't have that issue because there's no IP. Our solution was anytime we filled a Humvee we put a quart of ATF in the tank first. Miraculously we stopped losing injector pumps. Might want to start adding a little ATF for those old diesels to help with the lubrication.
You need to run a dual filter system a d add two,cycle oil to the fuel on older tractors they removed the lubricant from it the new stuff is salasilc acid it absorbed water and drops out of the fuel looks like powdered sugar on the bottom of the tank then the hi pressure pump and injectors scuff and need rebuild if parts are available but the tier 4 emissions are to much of a pain to upkeep
In around 2005-2007 diesel fuel in the United States was changed to Ultra Low Sulfur diesel. Lowering the sulfur lowered the lubricity in diesel fuel. I’d recommend running an additive that cleans and adds lubricant. I use HotShot EDT with winter defense and Amsoil diesel all in one additive.
Tub towels are great. I remember tearing down and rebuilding old engines with Dad, old school clean up oil.and grease afterwards was a pan of deisel fuel and then wash off with some Lava soap.
oh yeah....every farmer has Lava soap in the shower! I know I do!
I would recommend removing tank and cleaning it.
You are right ! Fuel conditioner isn't gonna clean the shit out of the tank .
The best fuel product- diesel or gas- is Mechanic in a Bottle. Superior to anything out there. Eliminates all fuels issues.
Luckily, I’ve never had a problem with my 1982 Ford 4610, I run home heating oil in it and add some two cycle oil along with power service or howes or Lucas, same with my 1720 ford.
Correction---- Bung, plug to close barrel eg beer. Tank fitting for fuel tap---- bulkhead fitting~ Top up fuel tank after work to minimize condensation.
Hey Josh.
A lil information for you. I've had a diesel since 2004. I 100% agree with you about power service products. I've been using it for decades. My 6.0 powerstroke had 461,000+ miles before it cracked a head. As you, I use to use the power service, ie: white bottle. Until I called Power Service and spoke to a technical service representative. You are correct about the clear diesel is for cleaning the fuel system. The power service is ment for burning in the winter. It has a anti gel properties. The diesel kleen in the grey bottle is for everyday use.
It conditions your fuel and anyone who uses it on a regular basis will NOT ever have issues with water in your fuel system. All of my friends that have diesel trucks have at one time or another had diesel issues except me. I have NEVER in a truck that has over 500,000 miles on it ever had water in my diesel. Water in diesel is not the problem. The water causes algae, the algae causes acid that eats your fuel system from the inside, filters, strainers, the old strainer ended up in being the big hunk of junk you pulled out the first time you worked on that fuel system, rubber, coatings, injectors tips and o-rings.
Ie: the trash that you pulled out on this video.
100%.
Im a second owner of a 1999 F250 7.3
I keep her plugged in too 😉
different in a truck/car v/s a tractor that sits. I don't have these problems if I'm really running the crap out of my machines...it's when they sit out in the weather we start having bad issues. Now..this 2910 is a new tractor to the farm and that's why we're having the issues with it...fuel tanks on tractors are exposed to the sun more so than the fuel tank under the belly of your truck, that's why we're having more problems. My ram 2500 cummins is 25 years old and has no issues just like your trucks...never had water in them...because the tank doesn't sweat like the exposed tanks in the tractors and transfer tanks in my truck bed. That's why in my opinion. Interesting info on the power service product...thanks so much!
You will probably find the old plastic filter in the tank laying in tank. I take a piece of aluminum screen wire about 3" by 5" and roll a tight multi-layer tube around a 16 penny nail and pinch one end flat. I stuff that into the shut off instead of the plastic screen and it allows more fuel flow without clogging like the plastic one. I also keep a spare aluminum screen in toolbox for field change. Put a little tiny amount of borax or boric acid in tank to keep bacteria from growing. I have tried all kinds of additives including the ones you show but nothing is perfect especially on equipment that sits occasionally; current diesel is bad since they took sulfur out.
never mind the gunk in the fuel tank, the other issue I had with my 5000 Ford was many of the plastic "filters" in the bottom of my tank. mechanics wire and a brake line to get them out and lots of brake cleaner to rinse the tank out (just removing the cowl is a pain in the butt!). I run road diesel from the same fuel station as my diesel truck, so far so good.
road diesel is exactly the same fuel as off road my brother...one is dyed to show that ya didn't pay tax on it in case the G man pulls ya over. Look it up, I was surprised...you probably already know this though
i was once working with a guy replacing a motor that need to be torqued in place we had no torqued wrench so I just did them till I thought they had the right tightness. well we came back the next day with one. I had done those 4 bolts with a lbs. Got he nick name of Human Torque Wench on that job. Ya I had used such that much that I can feel the tightness of a nut or bolt. Still use the wrench to be sure but Im veery close to right on without
Josh,another job done ☑️ well and that problem is solved without any further issues 👍😮😊❤
I had a VW TDI car. I used Power Service in it from day one, and never had any trouble with the fuel system over the 17 years I ran that car.
Power Service products are awesome. The stuff you use also prevents winter gelling. I’ve never had a fuel problem with it, even at -40.
nice! Good to know!
I've been using that for years. 👍
Been using Power Service for decades and it's been very reliable at stabilizing fuel storage, used it on every fillup on my NaviStar ProStar for years and my F-250 has a 128 gal tank in the bed... during the V-Khina time, my duel tank lasted me 3 years with a ton on of just sittin there :)
All the fuel coming out now is junk doesn't matter if it's diesel or gas as it attracts moisture. Back in 05 when they came out with this stuff. Back then I had a 21 foot boat that had an 85 gallon gas tank. I ran the boat almost completely out of gas before filling it with Ethanol gas. I had no choice in the matter. Shortly after putting the gas in my engine started having problems. It didn't happen once but 4 times. Each time the fuel pump was going out. It cost me close to $3,000 in repairs. Eventually Mercury sent a tech out to check it out. He determined that it was the gas causing the problem. Because the 3-4 gallons left in the tank caused a phase seperation. I had to pump every bit of gas out of the boat at a cost of $865. Ethanol gas is the worst stuff ever invented.
Invented? Put upon us by the stupid politicians
seems like the old ford's entire fuel system needs a thorough cleaning -- tank, lines, pump, injectors, filter & housing, water separator & housing. I would bet the tank needs to be de-rusted and re-lined.
As old as it is take the tank off it and clean the tank out. Had a 1920 ford do the same think 4 times took fuel tank off cleaned it and it's been two years now no problem.
I get good results with Marine Seafoam
Back in the day working on my 70's vintage car, one of the first things I learned was: if it isn't starting then check fuel n fire. 99 percent of the time the problem would be either lack of fuel or lack of fire (ignition). It's a fair mental model to troubleshoot problems. Track / check fuel delivery system. Track / check ignition (for gas powered). I suppose that for diesel also track / check airflow, after fuel.
Yep....it's the fuel or the spark! That's how we always troubleshoot anything!
Try Howes I have found it to be a much better product. Especially the winter treatment
Great info. Thank you
Ever since the EPA mandated ultra low sulfur diesel fuel, the high pressure injection pumps have had wear issues which lower the pressure to the injectors. Lower injector pressure means poor engine performance.
The common fix has been to dump a quart of automatic transmission fluid into the tank along with the diesel fuel. The down side is if you get stopped at a DOT check point, the pink tinge of the automatic transmission fluid gives the appearance of being dyed non-taxed fuel.
The best thing you can do with any diesel engine is to run a good secondary fuel pump, and the best water separator/filter possible, run in series, not a all in one assembly.
The other thing to watch is to only purchase diesel fuel from high volume dealers, same goes for vehicles that require DEF. As you've found out the hard way, frequent changes of the DEF filter are a must.
You being in North Carolina, probably don't see the winter blend diesel fuel that has an anti-gel additive. Most of the diesel fuel treatments also aid in acting as a gel dissolver and system cleaner.
Another way so you don't run into that proplem of making your Diesel fuel looking like Off Highway/ Farm Diesel is to use a good high sulfer lubricant like break in oil. Add about 2-3 oz to your tank at each fill up.
You can tell a guy is taking flying lessons.."clear prop".
Thanks for this! Now all I need is a tractor, oh and a farm 😊!
Bio fuel.. dont ya love it.. 😬🙄.. cant remember the percentage in diesel but it doesn't like long term storage.. Wonder if thats on purpose 🤔... stay safe 🏴..
dad still burns diesel he bought in the early 90s!! If he were using this new junk all of his machines would be broke down!
That is a nice drag 👍
I would have to clean out that tank, before doing anything else,when I found that crud in it.
well what do u know I use it to just as u do. Only mine are 2 169 horse 3 little 40 ones and 5 trucks of dif size. Bty they are all pre 1995 bout for my Kubota a '19. I like the little one for doing little things but it has one draw back. it is its 2 fuel system filters. They put one right on the engine. essay to get at and replace. the other one is put where it is next to impossible to get at. Had fuel problems in past replace engine filter gone. With 1500 hr I have not replaced that other filter and it is same as one on engine. Now how the 2nd filter gets plugged before the 1st is a very big (?).
Corn oil is the problem
Hey Josh thank you for the video and I hope you and your whole family had a nice Happy Thanksgiving
thanks buddy!
Josh you ever run Howlles diesel treatment ran out and tractors and trucks thanks from Gary
Nice
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great !
a stand pipe with filter on it made of something that will dissolve in fuel. Ya good idea (Not as Pinky would say) Seen guys do this by making one themselves out of things they have laying around. They use Copper pipe with holes drilled in with veery fine copper screen. The guys I seen do this are older teaching younger how to and are restoring old vehicles to resell. They make them easy to replace too just as the one in ur hand is. Wonder if they sell just thew filter without the stand pipe or if made where u have to buy all new when it gives up.
man....I'd prefer a copper filter for sure!
When you get free time I would put a new fuel tank on the 2910.. Jus sayin
i don't think we need it my brother....this should handle all our issues...fingers crossed...it was just a little bit of trash
It needs steam cleaned and it will be fine.
Hook and pick sets at Harbor Freight are cheap... I think OReillys and True Value and Tractor supply also carry a hook and pick set of similar design.
yeppers...I have a few sets...but man, I'm telling ya....those true dental tools are awesome!!
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer no doubt... Been using power service for 3 decades myself. Good stuff.
Can't say you fixed the problem and it happens again.... that's called. I halfway unclogged it and went on my way....
lol....well so far so good buddy. I ran the tractor for 3 hours and no issue...but you're probably right
The products you show here are good products, but my preference is Howes diesel treet
never used it
Third time is a charm Josh!!!lol 🤞
I have an old 2810 that has been sitting a while. I plan on following your video to clean out the diesel system. I was wondering if, are those filters replaceable and where can I get them?
Btw, thanks for another awesome video.
Amazon...Here's a link for ya...I couldn't find just the filter but the whole setup was fairly cheap amzn.to/3ZrziWb this is an affiliate link which earns commissions I'm required to tell ya, no more expensive for you, but this is one of the many ways I earn a living
Much better videos on this topic....
must better videos? lol.....Must better uses spells cheek my brotherr
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer thank you.
@StoneyRidgeFarmer sorry.. phone auto spells sometimes.... but that's not a big deal for me... keep doing the same work over and over again...
We have a new tractor with a water in fuel sensor and the only way we keep it running in clear diesel.
it won't stop that algae from growing in your tanks my friend....I'm telling ya, this has saved me so much time and grief. The water in fuel sensor is the last line of defense...the first line is that filter inside your tank that will clog up quickly if you get algae from condensation my brother
How often do you add the Diesel fuel supplement?
every time fuel comes to the farm it gets this treatment.....every gallon that goes in equipment. Typically I fill up the tank on the back of my truck a few times a year, I just add it right at the pump when I fill it up
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving to you and the animals!
Octane is gasoline... Cetane is is the measure of diesel.
hmm...did I misspeak?
I don’t think you misspoke but, @ 8:08 you were being silly. 🤪
oh...that's an old nascar reference for women that like gear heads ...."what's that you're wearing...why it's octane 93" lol
Strainer
On older tractors and equipment you are time ahead to just drain and pull the fuel tank and give it a complete and serious cleaning. Decades of filth will be found.
Old ford tractor I bought to fix and flip had a red shop rag and handfulls of hay chafe in its fuel tank. That was the worst. Most all others had slime issues and a lot of dirt in their tanks. Drain, pull, and used a pressure washer to clean them. Except my backhoe: that had to go to a radiator shop for chem dip because it was so bad.
I use AMSOIL & biodiesel!
yep....good ol biodiesel is the reason new diesel won't last...at least that's what I hear
Mine is a Ford 1910 Roll bar Simms cab (with the snap on tarp/vinyl sides with zippers ha), Duer front loader. Just went out and looked. OH, she'll start. Almost fell on my butt from the snow. I'm wearing my, windsurfer 'slippers'. I refuse to buy, Pillow man slippers! haha WOOO!! Thank you voters! Wooo!!! 🔴⚪🔵🦃
I have a 4610 1988 year model
Just curious, are you no longer using Techron or don’t they have a product for this kind of application?
techron is supposed to make your engine run cleaner, but it's not an algaecide as far as I know. I still use it, but power service has been my go to for condensation and algae prevention for years before I started using Techron
Was hear. Woooo!
You’ll want to check and clean that finger strainer at least annually.
I use power service too. It keeps diesel knock down some and a bit more power with the cetane boost.
Some of those problems are probably biological growth thats plugging up your cut off valve.
I put two stroke oil in my fuel too to add the lubricity back into it since they have removed the sulphur which acted as a lubricant in the fuel system.. The fuel available when that tractor was new and designed for was very different than todays fuel.
Yep, power service is the best!
When I worked at the shop I sold a fair quantity of this additive. I’m retired now, but it turned out I was on the right track.
No lava soap?
Lava in my shower....tub o towels in every vehicle/shop and corner of the shop. They are great for on the go...and keeping the kitchen sink from looking like a shop class lol
Quart of transmission fluid per 35 gal of diesel fuel. That's my formula.
I hear of folks doing that...but with modern diesel emissions systems I'd be weary...I do know that since I started using power service all of my fuel problems stopped...that was 5-6 years ago...I just bought this tractor and it's been hell ever since!! I also have another one I bought with similar issues! GRRR
@StoneyRidgeFarmer I'm speaking of pre Def horsepower for using tranny fluid mix.
Do you not like using seafoam on your tractors?
seafood?
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer seafoam
seafoam is garbage, dries out and ruins fuel lines and parts. Sure it's great for making youtube vids but in the longterm I've had bad experiences
What a poor design for a diesel fuel system. Fuel should be pulled from the top, should have a drain valve at the bottom, my tank has a 3/4" valve, very convenient to drain sediment. To put a gravity fed valve at the bottom of a fuel tank with a fuel pump is crazy. That tank should've been tin lined or epoxy lined
well my friend.....virtually every tractor has a setup like this....I know every machine on my farm is like this...diesel machines that is
@StoneyRidgeFarmer Not properly designed filtration systems for diesel engines, sorry ☹️ gravity is a killer
yep...as my old boss in the USAF said....Sht rolls down hill lol
Over the past 36 years I've owned 7 different diesel tractors, a diesel car and twin marine diesels in my boat, and have NEVER had a fuel issue. NEVER. Yes, ... diesel fuel SUCKS. It's DIRTY, ... it absorbs water. So DON'T use it. I run all my diesels on KEROSENE. Always have. Red, "off-road" KEROSENE.
you run a $100,000 tractor on kerosene and have never had an issue....interesting. I've never heard of "off road" kerosene....must be something where you live....off road diesel is dyed red but kerosene should be clear or bluish
Really? No damage.
None, ... and the engine oil stays very clean, as well. People will routinely run their diesels on filtered deep fryer fat and other sorts of very low grade fuel ( which burns hotter inside the engine ) without a second thought, but are surprised that a cleaner, cooler running fuel, that does NOT gel in cold weather might be a viable solution. In cold climates "winter formula" diesel is routinely provided for on-road use. The "winter formula" is as high as 50/50% kerosene and diesel. The only legal difference between "on-road" and "off-road" diesel, is the highway use tax built into the cost of "on-road" diesel.
K-1 kerosene is clear, and best suited for lamps, lanterns and indoor heating and cooking with kerosene stoves. The red dye in un-taxed kerosene signifies the presence of sulfur added as a lubricant in the fuel. The green dye in "on-road" diesel fuel indicates that the fuel has been taxed for highway use. In cold climates kerosene is routinely added to "on-road' diesel fuel to prevent the fuel from gelling. ( I've been running a pair of 3208 Caterpillars in my fishing boat since 1990, ( going on 4,000 hours ) with ZERO fuel related problems. )
I appreciate the education, truly.
Josh that is a lot of sediment/ rust deposits. Funny reference to Bevis & Bud Head much the same as a beer or whiskey barrel holey-o just got into 55 gallon barrel of diesel today, rust in a tank is a nuisance. Cause hydroscopic attraction, wonder why it's different now?
I think it's biodiesel which can have impurities that cause faster algae growth...but I'm no expert
That wee filter will give you torture. What I do is add a wee bit of pime on first then put filter on top of that. Saves it sucking gunk of the arse of the tank
Just stop
can't stop...it's a farm lol
Ancient tractors are not designed to run clean modern diesel. The fuel did not kill the pump, and diesel is not "garbage". You're running the wrong fuel in the machine.
what fuel should I be running?