With this particular bike I've had to adjust it three times two of which were in 15 hrs and one in only 4 hrs. This year though, I got the head rebuilt and stainless valves put in.
Thank you for the feeback... trying to decide if I want to go with the 150R or not which is why I was asking. Are there any other major pains I should be aware of? Does it eat pistons/rings up quickly?
In spec it says to replace piston and ring every 15 hrs, replace chain every 7 hrs. (I do not really do that). The valves are a pain to check every 15 hrs but each time ive had to adjust them... Ive only had to replace piston/rings once and that was when i had the head rebuilt.
@@brettsadventures1628 a piston doesnt have to be replaced every 15 hrs on any 4 stroke, not even on a 2 stroke. I dont know what books you've been reading but its not right
Great video! We have done this service on other bikes but the tricks for using a zip tie to hold the cam chain up and the screwdriver + vice combo for the chain tensioner were life changing. We will be using this trick for other valve adjustments on our other motorcycles as well. Thanks so much!!
Hey so my 2015 150rb was taken apart because it had some issues with the camshaft holder getting torn apart and long story short I had to replace the piston, valve, and camshaft/camshaft holder. I am having struggles trying to get the shims measured correctly. I have the cylinder head and the camshaft off the bike and I put in the new shims according to the measurements and now I over shot. I re ran the math and it still seemed correct. Do I need to have the camshaft and cylinder head on the bike connected to the timing chain and the bike in TDC to be able to get correct readings when measuring the shims.
GREAT HOW TO VIDEO!!! Thank you! I'm in the middle of doing my son's bike right now and I can't seem to get the thinnest gauge (.0015) in the right intake....any suggestions would be appreciated!?!?!? This is my first valve check/cam replacement. During this valve check I noticed one of the lobes (same side as the intake I can't get a measurement on) has a slight score on the lobe, well, as it turns out this particular bike is one of the affected VIN#'s with the bad camshaft so I don't have any issues replacing it. Any feedback would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
The right intake is definitely the first one to wear and get tight. If your smallest feeler guage won't fit it means it is worn to "0". You would have to decrease the shim that is under that lobe by at least .006" to be close to spec. If you're lucky, that existing shim is thick right now so that you can find another at least the .006" thinner. Either way your valves and valve seats are probably worn to the point that re-shimming them will only last a few hours of ride time at best. If your cam lobe is scored, check the whole valve train (cam, valve buckets, retainer cap) for signs of heat, cracks, and excessive wear. If you plan on changing out the cam for a new one then you will have to shim the new one from scratch anyway. If the rest of the valve train looks good you may just need to replace the cam shaft and shim the valves to spec. If you plan on keeping the bike for a while, you could send the head off to get new seats cut and new stainless valves and new valve guides, about $300 or so. I did it on mine and it has helped a bunch.
Good video, strange though, how you aged 25 years between vid 1 and video 2 for the first 4 min of vid 2, then de-aged 25 years after 4 and a half mins + -.
I finished my valve job and I noticed I have much higher compression when attempting to start the bike, once started it runs great. Any suggestions or solutions
if the bike is harder to kick over you most likely are a tooth off on the cam sprocket. Before i remove the cam sprocket I remove the spark plug and with the engine at TDC on compression stroke, cam lobes pointed back, I put a long phillips screwdriver down the hole against the piston. Rotate the crank forward and back and the screwdriver will rise and fall, highest point is TDC. Once you find this check the timing mark on the gear, does it line up with the pointer, if not make note of its position as this is where it will need to be when you reassemble . Being a tooth off will cause the decompressor to open the exhaust valve too soon allowing more piston stroke and thus more compression is achieved. On a 150 starting it with this problem is possible, try being a tooth off on a 450, ouch!
@@alastaircarr8518 lol what you said is true. But if your exhaust valves are out of spec it can actually cause lower compression. Since everytime you kick it, the exhaust valves stay open a little bit on the firing stroke. That was the case on my CRF250R
When I’m timing the camshaft and go to spin the crankshaft to check it, the camshaft spins a little, then stops spinning even when the crank is turning, any ideas?
Спорт
Great Video, thank you for posting. May I ask, how often had you had to adjust the valve clearance on your bike?
I try to at least check the valves and change oil every 15 hours, it is very tedious but its in spec.
With this particular bike I've had to adjust it three times two of which were in 15 hrs and one in only 4 hrs. This year though, I got the head rebuilt and stainless valves put in.
Thank you for the feeback... trying to decide if I want to go with the 150R or not which is why I was asking. Are there any other major pains I should be aware of? Does it eat pistons/rings up quickly?
In spec it says to replace piston and ring every 15 hrs, replace chain every 7 hrs. (I do not really do that). The valves are a pain to check every 15 hrs but each time ive had to adjust them... Ive only had to replace piston/rings once and that was when i had the head rebuilt.
@@brettsadventures1628 a piston doesnt have to be replaced every 15 hrs on any 4 stroke, not even on a 2 stroke. I dont know what books you've been reading but its not right
Great video! We have done this service on other bikes but the tricks for using a zip tie to hold the cam chain up and the screwdriver + vice combo for the chain tensioner were life changing. We will be using this trick for other valve adjustments on our other motorcycles as well. Thanks so much!!
You did an awesome job, and your detail were amazing. Thank you.
Another great video :-) Thanks! This makes me brave enough to proceed with my plans.
Great video. Very nice detail THANKS!
Great video excellent work
Great vid!
Es genial felicidades 👌👌
What size hex key did u use for the two cam sprocket bolts?
Hey so my 2015 150rb was taken apart because it had some issues with the camshaft holder getting torn apart and long story short I had to replace the piston, valve, and camshaft/camshaft holder. I am having struggles trying to get the shims measured correctly. I have the cylinder head and the camshaft off the bike and I put in the new shims according to the measurements and now I over shot. I re ran the math and it still seemed correct. Do I need to have the camshaft and cylinder head on the bike connected to the timing chain and the bike in TDC to be able to get correct readings when measuring the shims.
Can u give me the measurements of the shims u put in the intake and exhaust my exhaust ones r 2.05 I just don’t know the intake if u cans help me out
2022 AD , they still can't give us adjustable
valves, lol.
What size shim did u put in
Do u know what size shims u have in
GREAT HOW TO VIDEO!!! Thank you! I'm in the middle of doing my son's bike right now and I can't seem to get the thinnest gauge (.0015) in the right intake....any suggestions would be appreciated!?!?!? This is my first valve check/cam replacement. During this valve check I noticed one of the lobes (same side as the intake I can't get a measurement on) has a slight score on the lobe, well, as it turns out this particular bike is one of the affected VIN#'s with the bad camshaft so I don't have any issues replacing it. Any feedback would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
The right intake is definitely the first one to wear and get tight. If your smallest feeler guage won't fit it means it is worn to "0". You would have to decrease the shim that is under that lobe by at least .006" to be close to spec. If you're lucky, that existing shim is thick right now so that you can find another at least the .006" thinner. Either way your valves and valve seats are probably worn to the point that re-shimming them will only last a few hours of ride time at best. If your cam lobe is scored, check the whole valve train (cam, valve buckets, retainer cap) for signs of heat, cracks, and excessive wear. If you plan on changing out the cam for a new one then you will have to shim the new one from scratch anyway. If the rest of the valve train looks good you may just need to replace the cam shaft and shim the valves to spec. If you plan on keeping the bike for a while, you could send the head off to get new seats cut and new stainless valves and new valve guides, about $300 or so. I did it on mine and it has helped a bunch.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
If you turn just past where it stops with the flathead it will stay the vice grips are not necessary
What size shims u put in
Great video. I just picked up a 08. Is the intake ss or ti.
John Martin wym
Thank God for 2 strokes.
How do you adjust the valve clearance?
The video should explain how. When changing the thickness of the shims, that's what adjusts the valves.
Question I took out my shims from my 2021 150rb and it came out at 1.8 what do I do please help
Please help me out I need it 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Good video, strange though, how you aged
25 years between vid 1 and video 2 for the
first 4 min of vid 2, then de-aged 25 years after 4
and a half mins + -.
How many times do I wind the spring ?? 10:25
No loctite needed on cam sprocket bolts?
For wat ?
I finished my valve job and I noticed I have much higher compression when attempting to start the bike, once started it runs great. Any suggestions or solutions
if the bike is harder to kick over you most likely are a tooth off on the cam sprocket. Before i remove the cam sprocket I remove the spark plug and with the engine at TDC on compression stroke, cam lobes pointed back, I put a long phillips screwdriver down the hole against the piston. Rotate the crank forward and back and the screwdriver will rise and fall, highest point is TDC. Once you find this check the timing mark on the gear, does it line up with the pointer, if not make note of its position as this is where it will need to be when you reassemble . Being a tooth off will cause the decompressor to open the exhaust valve too soon allowing more piston stroke and thus more compression is achieved. On a 150 starting it with this problem is possible, try being a tooth off on a 450, ouch!
@@alastaircarr8518 lol what you said is true. But if your exhaust valves are out of spec it can actually cause lower compression. Since everytime you kick it, the exhaust valves stay open a little bit on the firing stroke. That was the case on my CRF250R
When I’m timing the camshaft and go to spin the crankshaft to check it, the camshaft spins a little, then stops spinning even when the crank is turning, any ideas?
Stretched cam chain
@@906racing it was actually because the chain fell off the bottom sprocket but thanks 💯
@@203REV same thing happened to mine last year.
@@203REV That it the most annoying thing
I have big gun to
Hi can u get me a used engine