The ratchet can be used to break many bolts that take more torque than it's rated at. Just use it like a manual ratchet to break the bolt loose then spin it off. This is how it was designed and intended to be used.
Great comparison. Love that you actually showed some examples of using it on a car. Guess the question now is how these compare to right angle impacts. Thanks!
I have both, and like both. I got the stubby first, and if I had to choose I'd pick it, hands down, no doubt in my mind whatsoever. It does things the ratchet couldn't dream of doing, and what it can't do that the ratchet can do, I could always use other tools for, like a hand ratchet or combo wrench, ratcheting or not. But it's still nice to have as a time and effort saver, to loosen or refasten hard to reach fasteners. Whatever fasteners the stubby can break, remove and refasten, I'll usually use it on, as it's much faster and more powerful, and has that nice autofasten mode that shuts off at around 10ft-lb. But when access is limited, I'll reach for the ratchet, unless it's fastened pretty tight, in which case I'll break it first with a breaker bar, as it can't handle too much torque. And with either tool I'll still use a torque wrench to get it to the right tightness.
The stubby is a must have. The ratchet is a nice add on. Good for bolt and nut running. I don’t think it was meant to break loose bolts. Thanks for sharing!
The stubby you're using is fuel, the ratchet is the older, weaker version. The weakness of the ratchet is sometimes overcome by rotating the ratchet arm manually to break it free. Overall, the big limitation of auto repair is limited access, and ratchets excel there. On a limited budget I'd go for a ratchet, maybe long handle version, and a mid torque, skipping over the stubby entirely. The stubby may be able to get caliper pin bolts but adjacent caliper mounting bolts are another beast. Don't have confidence the stubby will reliably come through for a rusted lugnut. That said, there is something appealing about a small package that does 90% of what you want.
All excellent points! In real world application, there 3/8” stubby is not enough for many lugs and my 1/2” is definitely my go-to! That said, I really enjoy using both the stubby and the cordless ratchet, though I do wish I had the Fuel version of the ratchet. Someday… 😄
My 3/8" stubby's been able to break most fasteners on our 3 cars, 2 of which are over 30 years old. Lug nuts, suspension bolts and nuts, brake bolts, drivetrain bolts including axle nuts, it's gotten them nearly all off. I've also used it effectively to power strut compression, interference fit bearing, bushing, ball joint and u-joint removal and installation tools. It's a pretty powerful impact, at least for cars. For trucks you probably need something more powerful. Only fasteners I was unable to remove with it were rusted and seized control arm bolts that probably hadn't been removed in decades. I needed a 24" breaker bar and cheater pipe for those, and a ton of brute force.
6 year Powersport/Motorcycle/watercraft tech here. Have almost all Milwaukee tools. Headline question in your vid: if you could only pick one.. truth is piece rate techs need both. Fuel ext reach ratchet is my go to, 3/8 stubby is my go to on larger bolts. I worked weekends installing 700yards of industrial pallet racking..My stubby 3/8 got ultimate torture test. Some 4000 1/2” concrete anchors put in in 3 days. I was sticking gun outside to keep it cool. 5 years I’ve had it and never been rebuilt. One tip on ratchets, non fuels don’t last in a shop. Weekend warrior mechanics I’d recommend, but not for everyday technicians. Owned two before I finally bought fuel ratchet.
This is what I needed, I have not worked on a car in 20 years and we didn't have battery impact tools. Now I am in the market I don't know what does what so this helps. Thanks man
I couldn’t agree more. Especially on your point about 1/2” impact. My Ryobi P262 1/2” impact is probably what I use most but haven’t done a review on it. For wheels, suspension and drivetrain parts it’s a must!
I don't comment often on videos. I have to compliment you in every way here. Well narrated, organized, informative and most importantly helps those of us in this situation make a decision. Keep it up. Subscribed
Very amazing review. Thanks for taking the time and making this comparison it is exactly what I needed to see. I will be buying both just in case. You look like my old friend from childhood from Palmdale named Glen.
Just want to get your thoughts on that: Is it specifically because of the type of automotive work that you do more of, or just in general/all-purpose use? Thanks for sharing your experience with these tools. 👍
@@lmsdiy Honestly, I own both, and the 1/2" stubby. Right now, I have a Cummins ISX half tore apart, and that little 3/8" stubby has been rocking it! So has the extended ratchet in 3/8".
I agree with you but i might buy the new Insider rachet because its nice for certain things. The new insider rachet has double the power than the rachet your showing us. Other than that, the stubby impact is an incredibly tool and lots of fun. Also, im never gonna be using any stubby for lug nuts. Im to used to my high torq gun!
From what I’ve seen and heard, that would be a great choice and easier to get into some spaces. 👍 Edited: I didn’t realize the name of that new impact from Milwaukee is called the Insider. I thought you meant impact ratchet but same thing. 🙂
@@lmsdiy My only question for you is if you think it's worth spending the extra $$$ for the Fuel ratchet, or if the brushed one is fine for what it is?
@@danielratner I think the non-Fuel version works well but the would go for the Fuel version if it's in the budget. Improved, more powerful and brushless means it should last longer. Whenever mine dies someday I will get an upgraded version. 😁
I use both, Milwaukee rules, the impact wrench to remove, the ratchet to put the lug nuts on without breaking the thread or my wrist, the torque wrench finishes the job. I do seasonals on five vehicles and these along with the Quick Jacks on rollers make for rapid pit stop style jobs. They sell rubber sleeves for both, they are real tool savers when working on concrete driveways.
This stubby has an autofasten mode that shuts off when around 10ft-lb of resistance is detected, that allows you to quickly refasten bolts, nuts and lug nuts without overtorqueing or cross-threading them, so you can use a torque wrench to then tighten them properly. It's much faster than the ratchet and actually safer as the ratchet just keeps spinning until it meets too much resistance, typically 30-40ft-lb which is too much for some fasteners, plus it has that painful wrist-kick that the stubby does not with its electronic clutch shutoff.
Nice review. You may have omitted to mention that the ratchet can be "pulled" by hand (like a normal hand ratchet)to break the bolt before removal. It may not be enough for lug nuts tho :)
Yeah, great point to bring up. I don't know how much Milwaukee "encourages use this way" 😂 but I know I've used it to manually break free some lightly torqued bolts before using the power rachet. I'm not sure how much this ratchet can handle for manual use so I don't do it too often. Interestingly, the AC Delco cordless ratchet actually has a rating and says we can use it to manually break free fasteners tightened up to 100 ft.lbs. I haven't seen that spec offered for other cordless ratchets. 🤷🏻♂️
You don't want to do that with this ratchet for anything much more than 30-40ft-lbs, or you'll break the tool itself as it can't handle more than that. There are videos that show this and Milwaukee says so itself.
I have both of these for my job as an Automotive Technician. The Stubby is more important but Imo if you were using these for DIY get both of them and a CP 3.0 Battery and your set.
Without even watching the video, I’m just gonna say it depends on what your DIY needs are. The ratchet is great for lighter duty mechanic work, while the impact is for more heavy duty stuff. It’s very easy to over tighten stuff with the impact. That’s why most people use a ratchet and finish it off with an actual torque wrench.
Great video, been looking for this info and I'm glad I came across it. Small tip for your voice over is that you can record the audio on the same camera you're doing the review on then rip the audio off with audacity. More consistent and improved quality. Thanks again for the content!
I would just like to point out you can use the wrench as a wrench. Once the nut or bolt is loose you can then engage the drive to fully take the nut/bolt out
@@kevinlopota3626 this is actually such a good analogy, would you rather have one, the other, a combination that’s not good as either or wait to save and buy both.
3 года назад+3
those are my favorite tools. and the ratchet you can break the bolt lose before ratcheting. Next tool will be the long neck 1/4 fuel ratchet.
Is there a limit to how much manual force you can apply with the ratchet version? I know some electric ratchets recommend breaking the bolt loose with another tool such as a regular ratchet (if a bolt is excessively torqued down) and then drive it out, lmk your thoughts.
@@dkkila2809 it depends on the manufacturer. For example, AC Delco outlines that you can use their electric ratchet as a manual ratchet for up to 100 ft.lbs. Other companies, like Milwaukee for example, don't recommend it at all. I feel the ratchet would safely work for manual loosening of bolts up to its maximum recommended torque setting. But beyond that, I'm into the habit of breaking stuff free first with breaker bars and impact wrenches. 🙂
3 года назад
@@dkkila2809 good question. I don't thing I would try to break caliper carrier bolts. Or subframe bolts. Use the right tool for the right job. I usually pick my battles haahha. I go for the 15mm bolts to 17mm. And never put my whole body into it. I rather use an extended wrench or break bar.
I like that plan. I have the Ryobi P252 1/2" and both of these Milwaukee tools but I think I would prefer the M18 1/2" impact instead, if I were to do it over again...!
@@lmsdiy yeah I think it’s probably smarter to get the 1/2 so I can put bigger impact sockets on and not have to worry about breaking the 3/8. I think the pipeline series tools comes out November. I really want the extended version and I like how it a 2 piece head not a 3
I have both in the fuel version. The ratchet is way overpriced imo and doesn't get used often but the impact wrench is cheaper, and def gets used often.
Interesting to see the comparison. I think the Esther is the best universal tool as you can manually torque, then use some speed to get off. The impact will just do anything and everything but it doesn’t fit everywhere. The 3/8 right angle impact is dope! Impact power, ratchet size, and it can break a nut free and then back off speed to go easy.
You can play with various combinations pricing. The compact 3 Ah and 6 Ah Extra capacity batteries are the best of the batterie choices. These two tools are a great combination. Get the Stubbie first, then the ratchet.
Glad it was helpful, Theo. Don't get me wrong, I love and get a lot of use out of both tools 😁 but would get the stubby impact first if I did it over again!
@@lmsdiy With measured rpm triggers the uses for stubbies seem broader. I don't expect to be working in or within the tight tolerances the ratchet would offer - but agree both would be useful. I went most of my life without an electric screwdriver, until I got one (with five point clutch). I use it for everything imaginable. I am hung up on one point, the 12, 18, 20V options. I understand that like motorcycles, the bigger the motor (and battery) the heavier the tool, so fatigue is a consideration. I read that the 20v has more power and would 'last longer' then the 12v - but how that translates into practical terms is my question. For those that have used both: If a 12v effortlessly takes the bolts off table legs and similar use cases (every few months - NOT all day long as a tradesperson would use them for), with variable rpm to change scooter tires, then a 12V would be good for me. On the opposite spectrum, is a 20V stubby required to loosen lug nuts and COULD a 12V do this? Again, NOT all day long, just a tool to reduce the fatigue of turning something a few hundred times as a manual ratchet requires - every few months. And if you asked me how many times I have loosened lugs - my answer is one when I changed a friend's tire. Generally speaking, would a 12v suffice fcaliber, but input from those that used them would be appreciated.
@@theociba3762 Good topic that I'd like to hear other's feedback on as well! Weight becomes a factor if you're doing this stuff all day long. My personal philosophy is to get the lightest power tool possible in the power category that I need. 🙂 So I use the Milwaukee 12v stuff the most, I have an 18V 1/2" impact wrench (Ryobi) for larger stuff and use a breaker bar if the Ryobi 1/2" can't get it done.
Great review! I brought the tools in this order: 1/2 stubby, 1/2 fuel ratchet and 3/8 right angle impact wrench. The 1/2 stubby is great and I wanted something for tight space and was choosing between the ratchet and right angle impact wrench. After checking up reviews, the fuel ratchet was the most recommended due to it smaller head size, ability to manually break loose the bolt before spinning it off if the tool torque is not sufficient. To make the long story short, I brought both and found the right angle impact to be more useful for working on scooter. The 1/2 fuel ratchet torque is strong enough for nothing, too bulky to be used comfortably as manual tool and too slow as a nut running(175 rpm). I suspect the newer high speed cordless ratchet will be much better. The right angle impact is much better for my usage. I failed to realise working on scooter does not have the same space constraint as car engine bay which most of the reviews are based on and the bolt is not as tight as on car. So it pretty much do everything I wanted.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience with those tools! 👍 I've been kinda eying the right angle impact wrench but haven't decided if I'm going to need it yet or not... 🙂
Video is very good. Not long ago, because I needed to buy a torque drilling rig of the Renhotecic brand, I used it for a while, and it felt very good to use. It is recommended that friends in need can try to prepare one.
Both tools have their purposes and you can use one in place of the other for certain jobs yet the ratchet is superior for getting into tight spaces, this is a great video for helping people who are wanting to dip their hands into powertools and diy. I bought my impact wrench purely for my cars wheel lug nuts, ive used it to break other bolts free but even with the compact stubby, extension bars and universal joints - the ratchet comes in to save the day as the impact is too bulky to get in some places evne with all the right extras to aid you. If you're a new diy'er needing power tools, i'd recommend a impact ratchet over a impact wrench for your first power tool as you will be fastening other bolts more than you will be taking off your wheels, a breaker bar and a bit of steel pipe to extend it for more leverage is a very cheap solution until you can justify the purchase of a impact wrench, however if you need a impact driver and you dont have a impact driver or impact wrench then i'd suggest buying a impact wrench as with a hex adaptor and the impact driver bit kit, you now have both tools for the price of one, and your wrench is much more powerful than the driver, so that's a bonus or con depending on how you look at it vs how fast you may destroy bits lol
Good insight and thanks for sharing your thoughts. My regular and extended 3/8” ratchets are truly my most useful tools for automotive work (but I do enjoy all the power tools I’ve amassed as well 😁)
impact driver with socket extension? That way you can drive screws as well. IDK if an impact driver or the extension bits are strong enough for lug nuts.
Hi David! Yep the socket extensions on the 1/4" impact drivers are strong enough. I did a couple videos showing how to use them to remove lugnuts. It's a fine general DIY option! For more regular use I'd recommend going with an impact wrench. The advantage of getting the stubby impact wrench is more power and speed and no socket extension (one less piece and it doesn't stick out as far). 👍
Great video! Dumb noob question. But should all cordless wrenches and ratchets only be used to loosen on nuts/bolts with a torque spec? Then a torque wrench is needed to tighten. Maybe the cordless wrachet is weak enough to rarely overtighten and give a quick start. Thanks !
Not a dumb question... 🙂 To get something to a final torque spec use the torque wrench. When putting on and tightening a bolt, begin by threading it on by hand. You could use a power tool to tighten it up initially but it depends on how powerful the tool is and the user's level of experience. This is also where a tool's "auto" mode is handy if equipped. For example, and to your point, this cordless ratchet only goes up to maybe 35 ft.lb so if I'm tightening up a bolt that should be tightened to 70 ft.lb. it's pretty safe that this tool has no chance of overtightening it. Experienced people will use power tools and tighten things up to under spec by feel and then use a torque wrench.
I think those are all the "Fuel" versions. This is the original 3/8" non-Fuel brushed version. If there is still stock at Home Depot I think it went back up to $120 now.
comparing 2 tools that are apples and oranges and for different untended uses and as mechanic diy or Pro both are equally important but you did a god job on the video but it to me is a Null comparison as they are totally different tools no if you did a comparison on the m12 impact vs the m18 and which one is better bang for buck as a DIY that would have made more sense to me
Feedback noted! And thank you. On the one hand I totally agree with you. On the other hand I think it’s kinda fun to just compare the “not exactly comparable”, partially for fun, partially for interest. Like, would you rather have a hammer or a screwdriver? 😁 Two totally different purposes, and in real life, I believe everyone should have both in their home and in their truck/vehicle. But the fun side of me says do the comparison for fun anyway! It may be entertaining and oddly informative. 😆
I'm struggling to see the point of a cordless ratchet. Seems like a right angle impact with a good variable trigger is the way to go, then obviously a regular impact.
Fair point. My first purchase was the cordless ratchet and I used it a ton. But since buying the cordless impact with it's small size, I likely use it way more now!
I like your tool suggestions. Quite a bit, actually. But from a value perspective, I wanted to keep the pricing down. The 2558 is double the price and the 2564 (tool only) is almost the same price as the 3/8" stubby impact w/o any batteries, charger or carrying case. If I had more cash to splurge as a DIY'er, I'm all over those brushless tool recommendations! 👍
@@lmsdiy Nope, have not tried it out. I am debating getting one for caliper replacement on my car. Either I pay the shop $200 for labor or I can buy $200 impact ratchet lol
My guy are you using the ratchet wrong. You aren’t meant to just rely on the torque the ratchet is capable of. You are meant to break it loose with your own force and then use the trigger to run it off.
I obviously do in real life but the point of that portion of the video is simply to highlight that the cordless ratchet isn’t like an impact wrench, nor like a right angle impact wrench. Press the button and it does or doesn’t loosen the bolt. Elbow grease sold separately. 😂
In all my years, I sincerely do not know what a two-handed ratchet is...? Quite honestly/no joke. I googled "two handed ratchet" and it just shows me ratchets. 🤷🏻♂️
@@lmsdiy. No Google necessary. @ 4:29 You were lamenting having to reverse a ratchet using two hands and I pointed out that every ratchet for the last century has been easier to switch from on to off using two hands, and yet you seem surprised.
@@AV84USA oh ok. I see what you're saying. But the point was (only my humble opinion) that I appreciate how simple and quick the drill style approach to reverse/forward has always been compared to the old style ratchet approach of turning the switch clockwise and counter-clockwise on the head. My old original Husky set was like the Milwaukee cordless ratchet. The more modern style of switch on ratchets isn't available on the cordless ratchet. At least, not this one.
That suggestion is already covered in the comments below. Thanks for the feedback. The point is that I was comparing how you press the button on one device and it has enough power on its own, or you press the button on the other device and it doesn't. I'm not a Milwaukee Rep so it doesn't benefit me to try to mislead anyone. I'm just some DIY guy who is sharing his opinion...
The ratchet can be used to break many bolts that take more torque than it's rated at. Just use it like a manual ratchet to break the bolt loose then spin it off. This is how it was designed and intended to be used.
Bigger ratchet more leverage way better than grabbing the breaker bar then switching the socket to the regular ratchet
You're right but let's say if the bolt is torqued more than 200ft lbs ratchet will snap.
at that point you can use a breaker bar@@Reecesavage-Alwayswin
@@Reecesavage-Alwayswin that point ur just using the wrong tool then tryna use either of these
Great comparison. Love that you actually showed some examples of using it on a car. Guess the question now is how these compare to right angle impacts. Thanks!
From what I've heard, the right angle impacts are awesome! Probably a great tool to add to the arsenal. :)
@@lmsdiy Yep, seems so.
I have both, and like both. I got the stubby first, and if I had to choose I'd pick it, hands down, no doubt in my mind whatsoever. It does things the ratchet couldn't dream of doing, and what it can't do that the ratchet can do, I could always use other tools for, like a hand ratchet or combo wrench, ratcheting or not. But it's still nice to have as a time and effort saver, to loosen or refasten hard to reach fasteners.
Whatever fasteners the stubby can break, remove and refasten, I'll usually use it on, as it's much faster and more powerful, and has that nice autofasten mode that shuts off at around 10ft-lb. But when access is limited, I'll reach for the ratchet, unless it's fastened pretty tight, in which case I'll break it first with a breaker bar, as it can't handle too much torque. And with either tool I'll still use a torque wrench to get it to the right tightness.
I agree with everything you outlined! Thanks for insight! 👍
The stubby is a must have. The ratchet is a nice add on. Good for bolt and nut running. I don’t think it was meant to break loose bolts. Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure. Thx for sharing your thoughts on these tools!
Totally agree.
The stubby you're using is fuel, the ratchet is the older, weaker version. The weakness of the ratchet is sometimes overcome by rotating the ratchet arm manually to break it free. Overall, the big limitation of auto repair is limited access, and ratchets excel there. On a limited budget I'd go for a ratchet, maybe long handle version, and a mid torque, skipping over the stubby entirely. The stubby may be able to get caliper pin bolts but adjacent caliper mounting bolts are another beast. Don't have confidence the stubby will reliably come through for a rusted lugnut. That said, there is something appealing about a small package that does 90% of what you want.
All excellent points! In real world application, there 3/8” stubby is not enough for many lugs and my 1/2” is definitely my go-to! That said, I really enjoy using both the stubby and the cordless ratchet, though I do wish I had the Fuel version of the ratchet. Someday… 😄
My 3/8" stubby's been able to break most fasteners on our 3 cars, 2 of which are over 30 years old. Lug nuts, suspension bolts and nuts, brake bolts, drivetrain bolts including axle nuts, it's gotten them nearly all off. I've also used it effectively to power strut compression, interference fit bearing, bushing, ball joint and u-joint removal and installation tools.
It's a pretty powerful impact, at least for cars. For trucks you probably need something more powerful. Only fasteners I was unable to remove with it were rusted and seized control arm bolts that probably hadn't been removed in decades. I needed a 24" breaker bar and cheater pipe for those, and a ton of brute force.
6 year Powersport/Motorcycle/watercraft tech here. Have almost all Milwaukee tools. Headline question in your vid: if you could only pick one.. truth is piece rate techs need both. Fuel ext reach ratchet is my go to, 3/8 stubby is my go to on larger bolts. I worked weekends installing 700yards of industrial pallet racking..My stubby 3/8 got ultimate torture test. Some 4000 1/2” concrete anchors put in in 3 days. I was sticking gun outside to keep it cool. 5 years I’ve had it and never been rebuilt. One tip on ratchets, non fuels don’t last in a shop. Weekend warrior mechanics I’d recommend, but not for everyday technicians. Owned two before I finally bought fuel ratchet.
Love the useful info and experienced opinion. Thanks for sharing!!
I just bought both and have been very satisfied so far
This is what I needed, I have not worked on a car in 20 years and we didn't have battery impact tools. Now I am in the market I don't know what does what so this helps. Thanks man
The must haves, and I think these will cover all of your bases... The 3/8 extended ratchet, the 3/8" stubby and the 1/2" mid-torque impact.
Glad it was helpful and happy tool buying!
I couldn’t agree more. Especially on your point about 1/2” impact. My Ryobi P262 1/2” impact is probably what I use most but haven’t done a review on it. For wheels, suspension and drivetrain parts it’s a must!
I don't comment often on videos. I have to compliment you in every way here. Well narrated, organized, informative and most importantly helps those of us in this situation make a decision. Keep it up. Subscribed
Hey @SixSevenDiesel thank you so much for your feedback. I'm very happy to hear that this video was informative and helpful! 🙂🙏
great video. straight forward with no nosense yet precise, with solid real world demos. bravo
Much appreciated and hope you found it helpful!
Very amazing review. Thanks for taking the time and making this comparison it is exactly what I needed to see. I will be buying both just in case. You look like my old friend from childhood from Palmdale named Glen.
Thanks Aaron. I think you’re going to very happy with both tools! 👍
I got the fuel 3/8 rachet and gen 3 mid torque m18 and they both do everything I need them for
Great Milwaukee combo choice 👍
I own both, tough call... I would probably keep the stubby.
Just want to get your thoughts on that: Is it specifically because of the type of automotive work that you do more of, or just in general/all-purpose use? Thanks for sharing your experience with these tools. 👍
@@lmsdiy Honestly, I own both, and the 1/2" stubby. Right now, I have a Cummins ISX half tore apart, and that little 3/8" stubby has been rocking it! So has the extended ratchet in 3/8".
I agree with you but i might buy the new Insider rachet because its nice for certain things. The new insider rachet has double the power than the rachet your showing us. Other than that, the stubby impact is an incredibly tool and lots of fun. Also, im never gonna be using any stubby for lug nuts. Im to used to my high torq gun!
From what I’ve seen and heard, that would be a great choice and easier to get into some spaces. 👍
Edited: I didn’t realize the name of that new impact from Milwaukee is called the Insider. I thought you meant impact ratchet but same thing. 🙂
Insider long reach rachet. New Item. @@lmsdiy
Thanks for making this video. I've been on the fence for quite a while now, and this really helped with my decision!
Truth be told, both tools are excellent and excellent purchases!!
@@lmsdiy My only question for you is if you think it's worth spending the extra $$$ for the Fuel ratchet, or if the brushed one is fine for what it is?
@@danielratner I think the non-Fuel version works well but the would go for the Fuel version if it's in the budget. Improved, more powerful and brushless means it should last longer. Whenever mine dies someday I will get an upgraded version. 😁
I use both, Milwaukee rules, the impact wrench to remove, the ratchet to put the lug nuts on without breaking the thread or my wrist, the torque wrench finishes the job. I do seasonals on five vehicles and these along with the Quick Jacks on rollers make for rapid pit stop style jobs. They sell rubber sleeves for both, they are real tool savers when working on concrete driveways.
Awesome. That's good advice with the rubber sleeves! I'm working on concrete driveways a lot too. 👍
This stubby has an autofasten mode that shuts off when around 10ft-lb of resistance is detected, that allows you to quickly refasten bolts, nuts and lug nuts without overtorqueing or cross-threading them, so you can use a torque wrench to then tighten them properly.
It's much faster than the ratchet and actually safer as the ratchet just keeps spinning until it meets too much resistance, typically 30-40ft-lb which is too much for some fasteners, plus it has that painful wrist-kick that the stubby does not with its electronic clutch shutoff.
Nice review. You may have omitted to mention that the ratchet can be "pulled" by hand (like a normal hand ratchet)to break the bolt before removal. It may not be enough for lug nuts tho :)
Yeah, great point to bring up. I don't know how much Milwaukee "encourages use this way" 😂 but I know I've used it to manually break free some lightly torqued bolts before using the power rachet.
I'm not sure how much this ratchet can handle for manual use so I don't do it too often. Interestingly, the AC Delco cordless ratchet actually has a rating and says we can use it to manually break free fasteners tightened up to 100 ft.lbs. I haven't seen that spec offered for other cordless ratchets. 🤷🏻♂️
You don't want to do that with this ratchet for anything much more than 30-40ft-lbs, or you'll break the tool itself as it can't handle more than that. There are videos that show this and Milwaukee says so itself.
Thanks for making this. Makes sense, I think I’ll get the impact first and then add the ratchet later
Glad it was helpful! In the end, I enjoy both tools. 👍🙂
I have both of these for my job as an Automotive Technician. The Stubby is more important but Imo if you were using these for DIY get both of them and a CP 3.0 Battery and your set.
Without even watching the video, I’m just gonna say it depends on what your DIY needs are. The ratchet is great for lighter duty mechanic work, while the impact is for more heavy duty stuff.
It’s very easy to over tighten stuff with the impact. That’s why most people use a ratchet and finish it off with an actual torque wrench.
I got the ratchet free when i bought a kit that consisted of two 4ah batteries, a charger, and a bag.
Wow…killer deal for great tools!
@@lmsdiy Thanks! I live in Canada near Toronto. It was an electrical supply place called O'Neal. Haha
Great video, been looking for this info and I'm glad I came across it.
Small tip for your voice over is that you can record the audio on the same camera you're doing the review on then rip the audio off with audacity. More consistent and improved quality. Thanks again for the content!
Audacity, hey? Sweet I'll check it out. Thanks!
And, I'm really happy that you found the video useful!! 🙏🏼
Just the video i needed to see. Thanks!
Awesome, and glad it was helpful. 🙂
I would just like to point out you can use the wrench as a wrench. Once the nut or bolt is loose you can then engage the drive to fully take the nut/bolt out
Excellent recommendation
Love these tools. I’ve got both but asking which one you should get is like asking which is better to have; a fork or a spoon? Lol. Nice review 👍
So true, lol. I actually love them both too but, hey, I had to throw an opinion out there for fun!
Fork or spoon? I choose spork !
@@kevinlopota3626 this is actually such a good analogy, would you rather have one, the other, a combination that’s not good as either or wait to save and buy both.
those are my favorite tools. and the ratchet you can break the bolt lose before ratcheting. Next tool will be the long neck 1/4 fuel ratchet.
That will be a great purchase. 1/4" is faster and long neck... So useful. Is it Brushless too?
@@lmsdiy yes it is
Is there a limit to how much manual force you can apply with the ratchet version? I know some electric ratchets recommend breaking the bolt loose with another tool such as a regular ratchet (if a bolt is excessively torqued down) and then drive it out, lmk your thoughts.
@@dkkila2809 it depends on the manufacturer. For example, AC Delco outlines that you can use their electric ratchet as a manual ratchet for up to 100 ft.lbs. Other companies, like Milwaukee for example, don't recommend it at all.
I feel the ratchet would safely work for manual loosening of bolts up to its maximum recommended torque setting. But beyond that, I'm into the habit of breaking stuff free first with breaker bars and impact wrenches. 🙂
@@dkkila2809 good question. I don't thing I would try to break caliper carrier bolts. Or subframe bolts. Use the right tool for the right job. I usually pick my battles haahha. I go for the 15mm bolts to 17mm. And never put my whole body into it. I rather use an extended wrench or break bar.
I bought the impact wrench first for suspension work, I’m ordering the ratchet to do some engine work
Nice. Let me know how that works out. I have a 1/2” impact for the tougher stuff too.
I was thinking about getting the mid impact m18 and the m12 3/8 ratchet. I might wait for the new pipeline series the extended neck.
I like that plan. I have the Ryobi P252 1/2" and both of these Milwaukee tools but I think I would prefer the M18 1/2" impact instead, if I were to do it over again...!
P.S. yes to the extended neck version!
@@lmsdiy yeah I think it’s probably smarter to get the 1/2 so I can put bigger impact sockets on and not have to worry about breaking the 3/8. I think the pipeline series tools comes out November. I really want the extended version and I like how it a 2 piece head not a 3
Great video, well done! I like that you showed us more than taking a wheel nuts off. Thank you
My pleasure and I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching!
I have both in the fuel version. The ratchet is way overpriced imo and doesn't get used often but the impact wrench is cheaper, and def gets used often.
Thanks for the feedback. I really want to upgrade mine to the long neck brushless cordless ratchet but it's quite the price jump...!
Wow I’m speechless that the battery ratchet couldn’t even get the guide pin bolt out!! 😮 That’s made making a decision real quick and easy for me.
They are ratchets not impacts. That's why manual ratchets will always exist.
Interesting to see the comparison.
I think the Esther is the best universal tool as you can manually torque, then use some speed to get off. The impact will just do anything and everything but it doesn’t fit everywhere. The 3/8 right angle impact is dope! Impact power, ratchet size, and it can break a nut free and then back off speed to go easy.
I am so interested in the right angle impact…one of these days!! 👍
You can play with various combinations pricing. The compact 3 Ah and 6 Ah Extra capacity batteries are the best of the batterie choices.
These two tools are a great combination. Get the Stubbie first, then the ratchet.
3ah really is ideal. Same size as the 2ah and 1/2 lb heavier, but that's unnoticeable!
Exactly what i wanted to learn And see. I was looking at the ratchet but know I'll need more power - very practical comparison for me.
Glad it was helpful, Theo. Don't get me wrong, I love and get a lot of use out of both tools 😁 but would get the stubby impact first if I did it over again!
@@lmsdiy With measured rpm triggers the uses for stubbies seem broader. I don't expect to be working in or within the tight tolerances the ratchet would offer - but agree both would be useful. I went most of my life without an electric screwdriver, until I got one (with five point clutch). I use it for everything imaginable. I am hung up on one point, the 12, 18, 20V options. I understand that like motorcycles, the bigger the motor (and battery) the heavier the tool, so fatigue is a consideration. I read that the 20v has more power and would 'last longer' then the 12v - but how that translates into practical terms is my question.
For those that have used both: If a 12v effortlessly takes the bolts off table legs and similar use cases (every few months - NOT all day long as a tradesperson would use them for), with variable rpm to change scooter tires, then a 12V would be good for me. On the opposite spectrum, is a 20V stubby required to loosen lug nuts and COULD a 12V do this? Again, NOT all day long, just a tool to reduce the fatigue of turning something a few hundred times as a manual ratchet requires - every few months. And if you asked me how many times I have loosened lugs - my answer is one when I changed a friend's tire.
Generally speaking, would a 12v suffice fcaliber, but input from those that used them would be appreciated.
@@theociba3762 Good topic that I'd like to hear other's feedback on as well! Weight becomes a factor if you're doing this stuff all day long. My personal philosophy is to get the lightest power tool possible in the power category that I need. 🙂
So I use the Milwaukee 12v stuff the most, I have an 18V 1/2" impact wrench (Ryobi) for larger stuff and use a breaker bar if the Ryobi 1/2" can't get it done.
Great review!
I brought the tools in this order: 1/2 stubby, 1/2 fuel ratchet and 3/8 right angle impact wrench.
The 1/2 stubby is great and I wanted something for tight space and was choosing between the ratchet and right angle impact wrench.
After checking up reviews, the fuel ratchet was the most recommended due to it smaller head size, ability to manually break loose the bolt before spinning it off if the tool torque is not sufficient.
To make the long story short, I brought both and found the right angle impact to be more useful for working on scooter. The 1/2 fuel ratchet torque is strong enough for nothing, too bulky to be used comfortably as manual tool and too slow as a nut running(175 rpm). I suspect the newer high speed cordless ratchet will be much better.
The right angle impact is much better for my usage. I failed to realise working on scooter does not have the same space constraint as car engine bay which most of the reviews are based on and the bolt is not as tight as on car. So it pretty much do everything I wanted.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience with those tools! 👍 I've been kinda eying the right angle impact wrench but haven't decided if I'm going to need it yet or not... 🙂
Thanks for this vid. I have the ratchet but I think I need both now.
I can't disagree with your assessment lol
Video is very good. Not long ago, because I needed to buy a torque drilling rig of the Renhotecic brand, I used it for a while, and it felt very good to use. It is recommended that friends in need can try to prepare one.
This has been helpful thanks
Happy to hear that! 👍
Both tools have their purposes and you can use one in place of the other for certain jobs yet the ratchet is superior for getting into tight spaces, this is a great video for helping people who are wanting to dip their hands into powertools and diy.
I bought my impact wrench purely for my cars wheel lug nuts, ive used it to break other bolts free but even with the compact stubby, extension bars and universal joints - the ratchet comes in to save the day as the impact is too bulky to get in some places evne with all the right extras to aid you.
If you're a new diy'er needing power tools, i'd recommend a impact ratchet over a impact wrench for your first power tool as you will be fastening other bolts more than you will be taking off your wheels, a breaker bar and a bit of steel pipe to extend it for more leverage is a very cheap solution until you can justify the purchase of a impact wrench, however if you need a impact driver and you dont have a impact driver or impact wrench then i'd suggest buying a impact wrench as with a hex adaptor and the impact driver bit kit, you now have both tools for the price of one, and your wrench is much more powerful than the driver, so that's a bonus or con depending on how you look at it vs how fast you may destroy bits lol
Good insight and thanks for sharing your thoughts. My regular and extended 3/8” ratchets are truly my most useful tools for automotive work (but I do enjoy all the power tools I’ve amassed as well 😁)
Thanks for your video, mate! Very informative. Good luck with your channel! 👍
Thank you!!
The stubby with some universal sockets
impact driver with socket extension? That way you can drive screws as well. IDK if an impact driver or the extension bits are strong enough for lug nuts.
Hi David! Yep the socket extensions on the 1/4" impact drivers are strong enough. I did a couple videos showing how to use them to remove lugnuts. It's a fine general DIY option! For more regular use I'd recommend going with an impact wrench.
The advantage of getting the stubby impact wrench is more power and speed and no socket extension (one less piece and it doesn't stick out as far). 👍
You want those 2 and the high torque but only one then buy the fuel drill driver kit. Or if only those two as choice then stubby
Great video! Dumb noob question. But should all cordless wrenches and ratchets only be used to loosen on nuts/bolts with a torque spec? Then a torque wrench is needed to tighten. Maybe the cordless wrachet is weak enough to rarely overtighten and give a quick start. Thanks !
Not a dumb question... 🙂
To get something to a final torque spec use the torque wrench. When putting on and tightening a bolt, begin by threading it on by hand. You could use a power tool to tighten it up initially but it depends on how powerful the tool is and the user's level of experience. This is also where a tool's "auto" mode is handy if equipped.
For example, and to your point, this cordless ratchet only goes up to maybe 35 ft.lb so if I'm tightening up a bolt that should be tightened to 70 ft.lb. it's pretty safe that this tool has no chance of overtightening it.
Experienced people will use power tools and tighten things up to under spec by feel and then use a torque wrench.
the ratchet is for more specific uses lik i use a ratchet more than the impact in m yline of work
Where in Canada ? You can’t find that 3/8s ratchet anywhere these days for less then 200$
I think those are all the "Fuel" versions. This is the original 3/8" non-Fuel brushed version. If there is still stock at Home Depot I think it went back up to $120 now.
@@lmsdiy the fuel is definitely worth it over the brushed version though
@@Alucard-gt1zf I agree. I'm quite sure I will upgrade at some point!
Dont debate, buy both. You won't regret it
comparing 2 tools that are apples and oranges and for different untended uses and as mechanic diy or Pro both are equally important but you did a god job on the video but it to me is a Null comparison as they are totally different tools no if you did a comparison on the m12 impact vs the m18 and which one is better bang for buck as a DIY that would have made more sense to me
Feedback noted! And thank you.
On the one hand I totally agree with you. On the other hand I think it’s kinda fun to just compare the “not exactly comparable”, partially for fun, partially for interest. Like, would you rather have a hammer or a screwdriver? 😁 Two totally different purposes, and in real life, I believe everyone should have both in their home and in their truck/vehicle. But the fun side of me says do the comparison for fun anyway! It may be entertaining and oddly informative. 😆
What if you already have a Impact drill, with an adapter?
there are flexi attachment for the stubby hehe.
Good idea 😁
I'm struggling to see the point of a cordless ratchet. Seems like a right angle impact with a good variable trigger is the way to go, then obviously a regular impact.
Fair point. My first purchase was the cordless ratchet and I used it a ton. But since buying the cordless impact with it's small size, I likely use it way more now!
Get both.😂
Great video
Thanks! Hope it was helpful. 🙂
You really can't compare these two. However the higher torque Milwaukee 2558 ratchet or the right angle impact wrench 2564 would be a better choice.
I like your tool suggestions. Quite a bit, actually. But from a value perspective, I wanted to keep the pricing down. The 2558 is double the price and the 2564 (tool only) is almost the same price as the 3/8" stubby impact w/o any batteries, charger or carrying case. If I had more cash to splurge as a DIY'er, I'm all over those brushless tool recommendations! 👍
What about the M12 impact ratchet?
Wooo...I have not been fortunate enough to be able to try that out yet. It sure seems tempting... 👍 Have you tried it out?
@@lmsdiy Nope, have not tried it out.
I am debating getting one for caliper replacement on my car. Either I pay the shop $200 for labor or I can buy $200 impact ratchet lol
@@AK-IT 😂 easy choice! Let me know how you like your new tool purchase! 😁😁
Right angle impact
My guy are you using the ratchet wrong. You aren’t meant to just rely on the torque the ratchet is capable of. You are meant to break it loose with your own force and then use the trigger to run it off.
I obviously do in real life but the point of that portion of the video is simply to highlight that the cordless ratchet isn’t like an impact wrench, nor like a right angle impact wrench. Press the button and it does or doesn’t loosen the bolt. Elbow grease sold separately. 😂
Huh? I don’t know what they do in Canada, but the rest of the planet has had” two handed ratchets” for a hundred years.
In all my years, I sincerely do not know what a two-handed ratchet is...? Quite honestly/no joke. I googled "two handed ratchet" and it just shows me ratchets. 🤷🏻♂️
@@lmsdiy. No Google necessary. @ 4:29 You were lamenting having to reverse a ratchet using two hands and I pointed out that every ratchet for the last century has been easier to switch from on to off using two hands, and yet you seem surprised.
@@AV84USA oh ok. I see what you're saying. But the point was (only my humble opinion) that I appreciate how simple and quick the drill style approach to reverse/forward has always been compared to the old style ratchet approach of turning the switch clockwise and counter-clockwise on the head. My old original Husky set was like the Milwaukee cordless ratchet. The more modern style of switch on ratchets isn't available on the cordless ratchet. At least, not this one.
You're misleading people
You can use ratchet like a normal ratchet and switch to battery mode
That suggestion is already covered in the comments below. Thanks for the feedback.
The point is that I was comparing how you press the button on one device and it has enough power on its own, or you press the button on the other device and it doesn't. I'm not a Milwaukee Rep so it doesn't benefit me to try to mislead anyone. I'm just some DIY guy who is sharing his opinion...
Very hard decision to make
Buy them both? 😁