When tapping into 3d printed parts i use a couple extra perimeters in my slicer settings. slightly undersize the hole for tapping and then drill it out to the correct hole size for the tap you want to use.
Like that bridge idea to prevent warping using the ABS material. I’ll be sharing that with my friend who 3D prints his own parts. He’ll appreciate that. You always seem to have a lot of answers to the what may be hard to ask questions. Getting a premium finish with limited need for post processing is appreciated by anyone doing high end work. Really informative and helpful video Mark! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
This is so cool. I figure the advantage of this design process would be you could go back several times (given 3D printing takes time but still) and work a few models out until you find one that suits the vehicle and your expectations. Glad you also mentioned PLA vs ABS, I didn't even think about that, I imagine if PLA was used it would have warped into some awful wonky shape after a few days of use. Great video Mark.
These would be great to outsource production and sell on your website! I can't remember from the previous videos but I'm going to guess that these speaker sizes should be standard so it can work with most?
Sweet! I wanted to make some pods for my wife’s JL this is the perfect solution!! Only downside is, I do not have a 3d printer. That said, how much would you charge me to print me out a set of these pods?!? My wife absolutely loves music and is also about to give me the best gift in the world !! My first born son !! He will be born in 3 weeks and I know pregnancy is not an easy process, I would like to give her a small gift and install some focal in her dash ! I know I would absolutely make her day😎also I been following your channel for over about 2 years , love what you do man! If you decide you are willing to print them for me,I think it would even be really cool to have your CAF logo somewhere visible on it if possible. Thanks again for all the help you provide on your channel. You have no idea how nay times you have improved my install game!!! 🔊💪🏽😆👍🏽🔊
You are a real pro Marc, it is cool to see you push your imagination, car audio passion and new install technology equipment techniques to the edge to satisfy the high end install. Beast mode! I don't have high dollar product but I wish I had the equipment, experience and technique to not only look good but perform the best it can. I wish you could do a tutorial on the DS18 8to12 dsp so could understand how to get more signal to my amps so I don't have to use much gain. I just couldn't afford the other dsp mostly displayed on RUclips but it seems pretty good for the money and features
It would have been nice if you had tilted what you call the tap grill or whatever so the speakers can kind of point at the passengers yet still look the same to as the pod is now.
I think with the price tag on those speakers and tweeters I don't mind to modify the dash hole to make it flush and more stylish but hey it's just my preference ⚓
The price tag on those speakers I would want to take them out and put them in a different car if I ever sell the car I'm putting it into so I'd rather everything go back to stock
Agreed, my opinion as well. While you own the car, you can enjoy the look of a FLUSH speaker. When you sell, you can remove the expensive speakers and swap out for inexpensive drop ins to fill the new holes 👌👌👍👍
Nice!!!! It must have taken you a while to do the design for those awesome pods! I do DIY videos my self too and wonder if I should also get my self a 3D printer vs using my router lol! Or at least get one of those CNC machines that use a router but with a PC for programming the work load. Very nice work as always mark, you are the one who inspired me to go through with my full JL Audio C7 system in my Flex.
i know this is an older video, but a 3D printer is definitely a great tool to have. While i'd love CNC table I don't have the space to dedicate for one. My smaller 3d printer on the other hand I do. I can create smaller pods, logos, badges and really anything I can think up. The downside though is if you don't have any CAD design skills then you're paying someone to do the designing for you. In the span of a month when I first started I strapped in and learned Fusion360 basically DIY. I can also make smaller flush trim templates for my router as well. The other advantage to learning the design side of things is even if you outsource the fabrication of templates and things like that you've reduced some of the overhead by doing the design portion yourself.
On some items you buy you will find a hole shaped like a nut that you place a nut in then you put your screw in from the opposite side the nut shaped hole holds the nut from turning while you tighten the screw or bolt down. You could add that to your pod you wouldn’t need the extra plate and no tapping.
Just a thought, couldn't you have used the original speaker grille on top of your pod? I appreciate you would have had to somehow open up the area where the tweeter is as the "mesh" looks like it's solid in that area which would be a challenge but I feel it would be worth it for a more oem appearance.
Great video, as always. Wonder if speakers would have performed better if the top of the pod was angled rather than flat? Less reliant on sound reflection from the screen.
Nice! Only thing I would do differently is use a 4pin connector for the speakers; theres no need to use 2 of the same connector and have the chance of someone messing them up in the future.
Great video! How did you determine how much height to give between the mounting surface of the speaker and the inside of the custom speaker grill? I've thought about doing something similar with my 3D printer. The speakers I'm looking at list one-way linear excursion Xmax, but it is not clear where that distance is measured from on the speaker.
Good question, I would double the Xmax value they listed just to be safe. The excursion distance is so minimal for a midrange speaker anyhow you're only talking a few mm. Or reach out to the manufacturer for clarification. Trust me, I share your disappointment with how many manufactures provide little to no technical data about their products. As a bonus asking a question like this is also a good way to determine if the company actually designed their products, or if they are just having products rebadged overseas. You would be astonished how many "manupackagers" do this and actually know very little about what they are selling.
If I understand this correctly certain 3d printing filaments can be smoothed using acetone. Just the fumes are enough to smooth those lines on the outside
That design looks great! Do you think you’re going to post the 3d files for the project? I plan on using my 3d printer when I upgrade the sound system in my Gladiator, which is similar to JL.
I've looked into 3d printers. If I go that route, I'll definitely be also picking up a 3d scanner for seamless transitions/ integration. If you get a scanner Mark, I'd like to see how you work your magic with it! 👌🏼
Luckily decent 3D printers have come down in price. 3D scanners however are still very pricey. Hopefully more and more companies can get involved in the tech and competition can drive more competition, but right now it seems there are only a few companies with scanners that would work for our application and their scanners are pretty high end. And I'm not saying you think this but I believe some people think having a 3d scanner is an instant problem solver, "just scan it and then print it" when in reality you still have to have pretty advanced design skills to model the new solution that mates with the scanned surfaces and need an understanding of the limits of the manufacturing process you plan to use for the new part to get perfect results.
I used meshmixer (free and open source software) that uses photogrammetry to generate a 3d model from a lot of pictures to create an infotainment center for my citroen saxo. Be shure to not print in PLA as it wil warp or melt in the sun.
iwe used petg alot for things that need to handle heat and uv, have worked great. ABS, shure, its rock hard, but the smell when printing! and the warping, makes me dont wanna use it anymore
I’ve heard you have to be careful with 3D printed plastics near ventilation because the heater of the car will be enough to warp & eventually bubble or crack the enclosure. Maybe your 3D plastic base is more heat resistant than direct sun exposure & heaters can damage?
Forget the raft, get a heated glass print bed and use a couple thin layers of kids’ glue stick. Most importantly, when printing ABS, you need to control the air temperature in the space around the material as it prints. The easiest way to do this is throw a blanket over the printer, just make sure none of the mechanics snag the blanket.
Hey Mark, can you make me a set of these? I recently bought a 21 gladiator. I'm wanting to do a 3 way set up front, this is exactly what I need. Can't find anything like them anywhere. If you can/have the time to, let me know price pls. Thx so much.
Another option, instead of using the tapping ring, you could just use some threaded brass inserts that are "melted in". Sometimes called heatserts. EDIT: oops, I should have watched the whole video before commenting... my bad.
Can I ask you a few questions? Have you installed anything in the dash center speaker position in a 4th gen Ram 1500? I'm trying to think of a way to flush mount a 4" coax speaker into the speaker grill itself since the hole under it can only fit a 3.5" speaker. The magnet itself on the speaker Im looking at is a little over 3" and Im hoping with flush mounting it, it will fit.
These look really awesome man thanks. Is there any way I could buy this from you since I am in the UAE and would also like to upgrade my speakers in a similar way. Thanks.
You do such an amazing job. Your experience and skill shine through. The only comment I would add is that for car audio installs, make sure you check the material you use on the 3D printer. Some will not hold up to the heat of sitting on a dash
By that logic I should only work on a vehicle you have right? What about everyone else? This is a constant question I get on the channel... "Well can you do this for a 2010 X Y Z"? The idea of my videos isn't for you to copy my every move and do exactly as I do, but to present different solutions for overcoming challenges throughout a build. The process in this video can be applied to many different applications. Just a different shape and different design would be used.
@@CarAudioFabrication I have the exact same car and an basing my install exactly on yours. Only difference being the equipment I’m using. What I should have asked: would there be room for a full 4” midrange? I’d be prepared to buy some if you could modify the design to suit the drivers I have (Dynaudio Esotec 342 - MD142 and MD102)
The space is tight, I wouldn't recommend a 4". It would be just enough larger that it would pose many design challenges in this area. Not saying it can't be done, but the difficulty goes up. There is only so much room.
@@CarAudioFabrication thank you very much if that’s the case it could be a deal breaker in using or parting with my Dyns from my previous build and buying a new set like the JLs you are using
Hi i have one little question .i have spectron amplifier with around 400w of power and a jbl subwoofer with around 1300w .and if i turn amplifier power to around 50% it blows the 10amp fuse .is it ok to put on a stronger fuse?if you need i can get exact specs of this amplifier .I bought it new. Cable from the battery is 10mm width.
Would you possibly be able to post the file to these pods or if you’ve done any for specifically for a BMW F10 that would be amazing. I have a 3D printer, however don’t have a router let alone the knowledge of how to use a router so my only option is 3D print. I need an amp rack for a skar amp as it’s super long and weird, therefore I’m unable to hide it anywhere without having a custom mount or maybe mounting it to the trunk roof. I’ve made a fiberglass stealth box for the right and left empty space cubbies for my subs. I’ve also started upgrading all factory speakers but need to make the plastic wire connector for a BMW speaker as I don’t want to cut or Splice the factory wire so any suggestions on how to copy the bmw factory speaker wire connector plastic housing please do share.
Extruded at literally 482 degrees F. If your dash is that hot you're going to have more issues to worry about. ABS is used in OEM vehicle applications. And by your methodology of thinking the whole car would melt... everything plastic in your car is melted prior to being formed...
Hi , I had a question on pre used speakers . I had a set of focal speakers with Rockford amplifier that was removed from Ng car 10 years ago . I’m thinking of reusing these speakers and amplifier on my new car . Do u see any concern ?
Looks great! Mark, are you an engineer in your every day life? Btw if you msg me I have quite a few of the solder tip heat sets for the inserts...hit me up, I'll send you a few.
You really just tapped threads into plastic? You do know that metal machine screw threads are tougher than acrylic right? It will tap itself on the way through
I did car audio, fabrication, fiberglass, upholstery, and advanced security for 19 years. Right now my head is exploding over and over again.
When tapping into 3d printed parts i use a couple extra perimeters in my slicer settings. slightly undersize the hole for tapping and then drill it out to the correct hole size for the tap you want to use.
Like that bridge idea to prevent warping using the ABS material. I’ll be sharing that with my friend who 3D prints his own parts. He’ll appreciate that. You always seem to have a lot of answers to the what may be hard to ask questions. Getting a premium finish with limited need for post processing is appreciated by anyone doing high end work. Really informative and helpful video Mark! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
What material you use to print t with?
Dude! I bet you put a crazy amount of design time in on those pods. Exemplary work as always.
Wasn't too bad, thanks man!
This is so cool. I figure the advantage of this design process would be you could go back several times (given 3D printing takes time but still) and work a few models out until you find one that suits the vehicle and your expectations. Glad you also mentioned PLA vs ABS, I didn't even think about that, I imagine if PLA was used it would have warped into some awful wonky shape after a few days of use. Great video Mark.
what printer and what software are you using? oh and awsome work
I would think a slim lock washer (or some loctite?)would also be a good thing, lots of vibrations could, in time, loosens the driver screws.
These would be great to outsource production and sell on your website! I can't remember from the previous videos but I'm going to guess that these speaker sizes should be standard so it can work with most?
I’d buy these I bet they’d work on many vehicle models.
Sweet! I wanted to make some pods for my wife’s JL this is the perfect solution!!
Only downside is, I do not have a 3d printer. That said, how much would you charge me to print me out a set of these pods?!? My wife absolutely loves music and is also about to give me the best gift in the world !! My first born son !! He will be born in 3 weeks and I know pregnancy is not an easy process, I would like to give her a small gift and install some focal in her dash ! I know I would absolutely make her day😎also I been following your channel for over about 2 years , love what you do man! If you decide you are willing to print them for me,I think it would even be really cool to have your CAF logo somewhere visible on it if possible. Thanks again for all the help you provide on your channel. You have no idea how nay times you have improved my install game!!! 🔊💪🏽😆👍🏽🔊
Your content has been so consistently quality bro. I'm super excited to see more of your home theater build.
You are a real pro Marc, it is cool to see you push your imagination, car audio passion and new install technology equipment techniques to the edge to satisfy the high end install. Beast mode! I don't have high dollar product but I wish I had the equipment, experience and technique to not only look good but perform the best it can. I wish you could do a tutorial on the DS18 8to12 dsp so could understand how to get more signal to my amps so I don't have to use much gain. I just couldn't afford the other dsp mostly displayed on RUclips but it seems pretty good for the money and features
It would have been nice if you had tilted what you call the tap grill or whatever so the speakers can kind of point at the passengers yet still look the same to as the pod is now.
I actually have them the way they are to reflect more off the glass. I addressed this in one of the earlier videos.
Your attention to detail is amazing.
I think with the price tag on those speakers and tweeters I don't mind to modify the dash hole to make it flush and more stylish but hey it's just my preference ⚓
The price tag on those speakers I would want to take them out and put them in a different car if I ever sell the car I'm putting it into so I'd rather everything go back to stock
Agreed, my opinion as well. While you own the car, you can enjoy the look of a FLUSH speaker. When you sell, you can remove the expensive speakers and swap out for inexpensive drop ins to fill the new holes 👌👌👍👍
Nice!!!! It must have taken you a while to do the design for those awesome pods! I do DIY videos my self too and wonder if I should also get my self a 3D printer vs using my router lol! Or at least get one of those CNC machines that use a router but with a PC for programming the work load. Very nice work as always mark, you are the one who inspired me to go through with my full JL Audio C7 system in my Flex.
i know this is an older video, but a 3D printer is definitely a great tool to have. While i'd love CNC table I don't have the space to dedicate for one. My smaller 3d printer on the other hand I do. I can create smaller pods, logos, badges and really anything I can think up. The downside though is if you don't have any CAD design skills then you're paying someone to do the designing for you. In the span of a month when I first started I strapped in and learned Fusion360 basically DIY. I can also make smaller flush trim templates for my router as well. The other advantage to learning the design side of things is even if you outsource the fabrication of templates and things like that you've reduced some of the overhead by doing the design portion yourself.
Amazing job. Thank you for sharing. A rough price range and/or rough amount of man hours for the project would be very interesting to know.
On some items you buy you will find a hole shaped like a nut that you place a nut in then you put your screw in from the opposite side the nut shaped hole holds the nut from turning while you tighten the screw or bolt down. You could add that to your pod you wouldn’t need the extra plate and no tapping.
3 printing is the future of car audio. youll be able to get a GOOD 3d scanner and then boom. youll be able to model around it.
Just a thought, couldn't you have used the original speaker grille on top of your pod? I appreciate you would have had to somehow open up the area where the tweeter is as the "mesh" looks like it's solid in that area which would be a challenge but I feel it would be worth it for a more oem appearance.
Can’t wait to see these finished!
Great video, as always. Wonder if speakers would have performed better if the top of the pod was angled rather than flat? Less reliant on sound reflection from the screen.
Why do you think the engineers at Jeep aimed straight up? 🤔
Sometimes I print an oversized hole, then separately print inserts at 100% density, super glue them in the holes, and then drill and tap them.
Nice! Only thing I would do differently is use a 4pin connector for the speakers; theres no need to use 2 of the same connector and have the chance of someone messing them up in the future.
That is incredible. That looks like a $300 one off speaker pod set. Or priceless since you can’t buy it anywhere!
I'm sure its substantially more than $300. I would like to know.
this was an awesome video.. are you willing to share the 3d and laser cad files?
Great video! How did you determine how much height to give between the mounting surface of the speaker and the inside of the custom speaker grill? I've thought about doing something similar with my 3D printer. The speakers I'm looking at list one-way linear excursion Xmax, but it is not clear where that distance is measured from on the speaker.
Good question, I would double the Xmax value they listed just to be safe. The excursion distance is so minimal for a midrange speaker anyhow you're only talking a few mm. Or reach out to the manufacturer for clarification. Trust me, I share your disappointment with how many manufactures provide little to no technical data about their products. As a bonus asking a question like this is also a good way to determine if the company actually designed their products, or if they are just having products rebadged overseas. You would be astonished how many "manupackagers" do this and actually know very little about what they are selling.
If I understand this correctly certain 3d printing filaments can be smoothed using acetone. Just the fumes are enough to smooth those lines on the outside
I find body filler to be far more predictable. The acetone smoothing makes it "smooth" bit wavy. Which requires body filler to correct
Nice work mate, I feel like those grills need a convex curve they look to flat?
Will you share the STL files?
Nope, used to but caught people selling my files. Never again.
@@CarAudioFabrication would you sell the STLs?
That design looks great! Do you think you’re going to post the 3d files for the project? I plan on using my 3d printer when I upgrade the sound system in my Gladiator, which is similar to JL.
Great ideas. Thanks for sharing.
FYI: The Crutchfield discount still works as of December 2023
I've looked into 3d printers. If I go that route, I'll definitely be also picking up a 3d scanner for seamless transitions/ integration.
If you get a scanner Mark, I'd like to see how you work your magic with it!
👌🏼
Luckily decent 3D printers have come down in price. 3D scanners however are still very pricey. Hopefully more and more companies can get involved in the tech and competition can drive more competition, but right now it seems there are only a few companies with scanners that would work for our application and their scanners are pretty high end. And I'm not saying you think this but I believe some people think having a 3d scanner is an instant problem solver, "just scan it and then print it" when in reality you still have to have pretty advanced design skills to model the new solution that mates with the scanned surfaces and need an understanding of the limits of the manufacturing process you plan to use for the new part to get perfect results.
There is some great mesh software out there, but same issue as the scanners... $$$.
I used meshmixer (free and open source software) that uses photogrammetry to generate a 3d model from a lot of pictures to create an infotainment center for my citroen saxo. Be shure to not print in PLA as it wil warp or melt in the sun.
iwe used petg alot for things that need to handle heat and uv, have worked great. ABS, shure, its rock hard, but the smell when printing! and the warping, makes me dont wanna use it anymore
I’ve heard you have to be careful with 3D printed plastics near ventilation because the heater of the car will be enough to warp & eventually bubble or crack the enclosure. Maybe your 3D plastic base is more heat resistant than direct sun exposure & heaters can damage?
Lol, maybe if using PLA. Not going to be an issue with ABS
you have a new subscriber
Forget the raft, get a heated glass print bed and use a couple thin layers of kids’ glue stick. Most importantly, when printing ABS, you need to control the air temperature in the space around the material as it prints. The easiest way to do this is throw a blanket over the printer, just make sure none of the mechanics snag the blanket.
Hey Mark, can you make me a set of these? I recently bought a 21 gladiator. I'm wanting to do a 3 way set up front, this is exactly what I need. Can't find anything like them anywhere. If you can/have the time to, let me know price pls. Thx so much.
Do you sell these pods by chance or sell the design to print them myself? Just found your channel and have watched a couple videos. Love them.
Can something like this be fabbed and purchased without you having my car? Seriously interested.
Another option, instead of using the tapping ring, you could just use some threaded brass inserts that are "melted in". Sometimes called heatserts.
EDIT: oops, I should have watched the whole video before commenting... my bad.
Respec your woork is good👍
Can I ask you a few questions? Have you installed anything in the dash center speaker position in a 4th gen Ram 1500?
I'm trying to think of a way to flush mount a 4" coax speaker into the speaker grill itself since the hole under it can only fit a 3.5" speaker. The magnet itself on the speaker Im looking at is a little over 3" and Im hoping with flush mounting it, it will fit.
He won't answer your questions as his patreons are far more important than his YT viewers. Money speaks volumes with bloke.
Hey @CAF - do you mind share those design files anywhere? Maybe even on etsy? That would be great!
I wish there were more companies out there making these for just aftermarket purchase 💔
What model 3d printer is that?
Hi Man. This is such an amazing idea. Would you be willing to sell or upload the STL file for this?
These look really awesome man thanks. Is there any way I could buy this from you since I am in the UAE and would also like to upgrade my speakers in a similar way. Thanks.
You do such an amazing job. Your experience and skill shine through.
The only comment I would add is that for car audio installs, make sure you check the material you use on the 3D printer. Some will not hold up to the heat of sitting on a dash
This is mentioned in the video
Should be called the Jeep Channel because everyone in the world has a Jeep, right?
By that logic I should only work on a vehicle you have right? What about everyone else? This is a constant question I get on the channel... "Well can you do this for a 2010 X Y Z"? The idea of my videos isn't for you to copy my every move and do exactly as I do, but to present different solutions for overcoming challenges throughout a build. The process in this video can be applied to many different applications. Just a different shape and different design would be used.
Fantastic work guys!!!
Could you do something similar with Dynaudio MD142 and MD102? That’s a full 4”
This process could be applied to any speaker and any vehicle. Just need to design it. Your imagination is the only limit.
@@CarAudioFabrication I have the exact same car and an basing my install exactly on yours. Only difference being the equipment I’m using. What I should have asked: would there be room for a full 4” midrange? I’d be prepared to buy some if you could modify the design to suit the drivers I have (Dynaudio Esotec 342 - MD142 and MD102)
The space is tight, I wouldn't recommend a 4". It would be just enough larger that it would pose many design challenges in this area. Not saying it can't be done, but the difficulty goes up. There is only so much room.
@@CarAudioFabrication thank you very much if that’s the case it could be a deal breaker in using or parting with my Dyns from my previous build and buying a new set like the JLs you are using
Awesome
@CarAudioFabrication can you make a couple for my OBS Gmc Sierra 1989 (GMT400 body common to Chevrolet k1500)?
Hi i have one little question .i have spectron amplifier with around 400w of power and a jbl subwoofer with around 1300w .and if i turn amplifier power to around 50% it blows the 10amp fuse .is it ok to put on a stronger fuse?if you need i can get exact specs of this amplifier .I bought it new. Cable from the battery is 10mm width.
not bad bro. I like it. I would love to be able to use a 3d printer to build a rent house. Make more money! LOL
What laser do you own and what 3D printer?
Would you possibly be able to post the file to these pods or if you’ve done any for specifically for a BMW F10 that would be amazing. I have a 3D printer, however don’t have a router let alone the knowledge of how to use a router so my only option is 3D print. I need an amp rack for a skar amp as it’s super long and weird, therefore I’m unable to hide it anywhere without having a custom mount or maybe mounting it to the trunk roof. I’ve made a fiberglass stealth box for the right and left empty space cubbies for my subs. I’ve also started upgrading all factory speakers but need to make the plastic wire connector for a BMW speaker as I don’t want to cut or Splice the factory wire so any suggestions on how to copy the bmw factory speaker wire connector plastic housing please do share.
I am purchasing a Rubicon 392, and I would love to install a similar system. Do you sell these pods?
Hey Mark, anyway you would share that STL file
Nope sorry. Last time I shared people stole my work and tried to sell it.
Can plastic that’s designed to melt like that stand up to direct sunlight exposure in the windshield?
Extruded at literally 482 degrees F. If your dash is that hot you're going to have more issues to worry about. ABS is used in OEM vehicle applications. And by your methodology of thinking the whole car would melt... everything plastic in your car is melted prior to being formed...
What software are you using
Do you sell the 3d files for this build?
Hi , I had a question on pre used speakers . I had a set of focal speakers with Rockford amplifier that was removed from Ng car 10 years ago . I’m thinking of reusing these speakers and amplifier on my new car . Do u see any concern ?
Which Cad program do you use
Would like to ask. I feel like my new tweeter is abit "louder" so i could not hear any bass.. What should I do to decrease the tweeter sound?
Do you offer the stl file for these?
Im surprised you didnt just machine them from delrin... Would have been faster and turned out nicer and you can thread right into it.
…or used a better 3D-printer/different 3D-printer tech than FFF.
I am doing a installation I put 4 door speckers and tweeters with a crossover in I have a main crossover for subs and maltupel amps will that matter?
Any STLs for these ?
Nice👍💪
Hi, Are you selling this? I want one for my jeep
Fun
What are some of your favorite car audio brands and why?
Hey man, could I buy these designs from you to print myself?
Sorry, people have ripped off my designs and turned around and manufactured them too many times. This is not something I offer.
Looks great! Mark, are you an engineer in your every day life? Btw if you msg me I have quite a few of the solder tip heat sets for the inserts...hit me up, I'll send you a few.
Man if I could just pay you to do everything…
what cad software do you use ?
I use Fusion360 but you can use literally any design program to do what I did in this video.
You really just tapped threads into plastic? You do know that metal machine screw threads are tougher than acrylic right? It will tap itself on the way through
Try it for yourself and you will quickly learn why a tap should be used. Especially on a piece that is 1/8 inch thick.
You're all that and a super-size bag of chips, want to be youtube friends?
Awesome