Don’t know where to begin. My absolute favourite video of yours so far. The highlight has to be how you designed the speaker mounts to also help with cable routing. Really clever. Glad to see the days of needing tools and and know how in woodworking are over when it comes to build a quality small form factor speaker set. And the subwoofer is also amazing. It takes so little space you could probably have more than one and not have them call out attention. Painting them the same color as the walls also was great. You’ve left me dreaming of a 7.4.6 atmos setup this compact.
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed the project. I am super happy with these and have been using them everyday ever since, and they sound great. You would think the plastic enclosures cannot possibly sound good, but when designed correctly, it has surprised me.
3:20 in case you plan on printing a lot more, I'd totally recommend you a cheap deburring tool. It makes cleaning corners, chamfers and fillets just such a breeze and results look insanely good. I love your stuff, recently build the Dynamites and think about build its sub as well. The 3D printed set is also intriguing but I just dig the look of large fillets, haha
I once printed a speaker too. Took ages to print and sounded like...plastic. Then I made a wooden one of the exact same dimensions et voilà, sounds like it should. And it took me a quarter of the time to finish. And don't forget the costs. The electricity alone used for printing costs way more than the plywood.
Nice made speakers! At 7:51 you're showing the impedance graph. I would double check your calibration, because the graph looks rather strange for the a LR bafflestep compensation. That should be just only be a straight line going upward.
I’m not a DIYer but this channel is great. Subscribed! PS: i personally like the texture of printed plastics so I personally would leave it as is (not smoothed) ❤
I didn't expect your recording of the system to sound so good. Did you use your calibrated measuring mic to record the sound? I have decent headphones, and I'm impressed!
Very nice 3d printed speakers!, With that you can make something more stylish too, I have in mind create a subwoofer box with a shape of a turbine jet. Maybe you can build it if I gave you the idea that I have in mind
Exactly my thoughts! What a wasted opportunity here to make some shapes that are very hard to make through other techniques. It does sounds good otherwise.
Thanks. I will attempt something a bit more complex in future. Its my 1st real try at 3D printing, so just working my way up to it. However, I prefer more practical, functional and natural aesthetic designs, not sure it will be a jet turbine. But thanks for the imspiration!
Thanks. The best opportunity is to just make something, and then take it from there. I wanted something very plain, so ot could fit into my lounge without attracting too much attention. Dont think more organic shapes would have worked here. But perhaps for another oroject in the future.
@@SoundBlab speakers enclosures is no kids play and you've done an awesome job indeed. I was just thinking 3d printing offers some interesting opportunities. Looking forward to your new projects.
PLA sucks for subwoofers. I printed one from Hexibase and it rattled even with 50% infill. I tried PEG, just as bad. Back to good old Birch board. The 3D print is great for the vent tubes or intricates vents but not as a cabinet. I was thinking of printing with 10% infill then pump concrete in between the walls of the PLA cabinet but never got around to doing it.
ive got a hexibase one printed in pla with no rattles and a personal sub design with no rattles either, plus a set of speakers , its likely stringing in the walls or some wall not quite touching each other, try turning off 'avoid crossing outline' as this makes stringing occur in the infill, and turn wiping on as well as outline overlap to 35-40% . Ive had to reprint so many for similar issues but find these setting helped alot (i use simplify 3d but i think cura has similar settings) . But with the hexibase build it will make port noise if running above tuning frequency so keep that in mind also. If the sub in this video doesnt rattle, hexibase pla sub when he makes it doesnt rattle and mine doesnt i think its your print settings!
Love the builds on your channel which is why i am subscribed. :) In this build how much filament should i assume to use in the process? 1. Subwoofer 2. Front, Center and surround Thx in advance
Nice build for a medium to large can u make a larger sub or 2 drivers in sub to generate more pressure. I won’t mind using a powerful amp instead of lepai Also I see u r a TB fan. Would be great to see some peerless drivers used too
Hello. I found your channel today and I think I watched every video! Quick question…I’m planning an stereo upgrade in my bedroom/TV room which is rather small at 12feet wide and 10feet deep with the listening position in the bed 10 feet away from the TV wall. What type of speaker design would you use for a room like this? I can’t have large tower speakers on the floor as it’ll simply clog up the living space. I was thinking an extra large sound bar with left right and center built into the same bar would be the cleanest look for the room but I’m unsure if it’ll have the best sound quality. Thanks in advance.
A sound bar is a good option, if you get one that has decent sound. Some also come with a small subwoofer for bass, or some have limited bass response built in with passive radiators.
The only and big question: how have you calculate your enclosures?? From an other builder: You must test for medium and high frequencys a linear amplifier. Class D is only suitable for bass boxes. High freq are so agressive... I have a big experience with all TPA ics, if you want to exchange... For your big room a 8 inch is a better choice. Test your sub in your sleeping room... ;-) Great channel! Best from France!
I used WinISD to calculate enclosure sizes. The 6inch works rather well. An 8 inch would be better, but the 6 is more than able to keep up and produce enough bass. Thanks! Keep well!
@@SoundBlab It's my pc software too. An internet adress in my language make the same and little different. I make a mix. My first was caad from monacor late 90's. I listen wide sort of music an i search best for all. For rock or pop a 6 is for me a great choice. I have build a 2.1 with the 5" tang band. It's totally crazy in a 18m2 room!! Have a nice day!!
Comb filtering at a typical distance when listening to speakers such as this is not a problem. It only really becomes a problem when you listen near-field. At a longer distance room reflections start to play a role and will potentially cause much more issues depending on your room. For this size driver, it should start only around 7KHz or so, but my measurements even at 1m did not show any unusual comb filtering in this case. Should you place the two drivers much further apart, only then will the difference in distance between the two drivers and your ears cause a phase cancellation since the sound from each will arrive at your ears at different times, but so close together, they act almost as one driver.
Get the BUILD PLAN here: bit.ly/3SilozG
Good my friend
BOSE is punching the air right now.
Bose is junk.
Your diy speaker always perfect!! The design and output sound always amazing!
Thank you so much!
Don’t know where to begin. My absolute favourite video of yours so far. The highlight has to be how you designed the speaker mounts to also help with cable routing. Really clever. Glad to see the days of needing tools and and know how in woodworking are over when it comes to build a quality small form factor speaker set. And the subwoofer is also amazing. It takes so little space you could probably have more than one and not have them call out attention. Painting them the same color as the walls also was great. You’ve left me dreaming of a 7.4.6 atmos setup this compact.
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed the project. I am super happy with these and have been using them everyday ever since, and they sound great. You would think the plastic enclosures cannot possibly sound good, but when designed correctly, it has surprised me.
This channel should be reach at least 10M subs ♥️♥️♥️
3:20 in case you plan on printing a lot more, I'd totally recommend you a cheap deburring tool. It makes cleaning corners, chamfers and fillets just such a breeze and results look insanely good.
I love your stuff, recently build the Dynamites and think about build its sub as well. The 3D printed set is also intriguing but I just dig the look of large fillets, haha
I definitely need one of those! Glad you like the builds. Keep going!
I once printed a speaker too. Took ages to print and sounded like...plastic. Then I made a wooden one of the exact same dimensions et voilà, sounds like it should. And it took me a quarter of the time to finish. And don't forget the costs. The electricity alone used for printing costs way more than the plywood.
Nice made speakers!
At 7:51 you're showing the impedance graph.
I would double check your calibration, because the graph looks rather strange for the a LR bafflestep compensation.
That should be just only be a straight line going upward.
there's an 18k resonance from the driver
@@JordanKL1 a resonance would show as a peak in the impedance as well as being much narrower.
Ahh yeah and the original response shows no peak. Looks like something in the filter is causing the large peak in response at 18k.
I’m not a DIYer but this channel is great. Subscribed! PS: i personally like the texture of printed plastics so I personally would leave it as is (not smoothed) ❤
Thanks for the sub!
I didn't expect your recording of the system to sound so good. Did you use your calibrated measuring mic to record the sound? I have decent headphones, and I'm impressed!
Thanks. Recording with a Zoom H1 at 24/96
Thanks for making 5.1 home theatre
No problem
That sound wow..
Thanks
Good my friend I'm happy to watching your videos thank you
Thank you!
В первый раз вижу,что фазоинвертор сабвуфера,находиться сверху.Оригинально.
Hexabase has lots of vids making speaker box using 3d printers. You can learn or copy his style connecting or joining 3d printed parts.
Yeah, he does have some good examples of 3D printed enclosures.
Very nice 3d printed speakers!, With that you can make something more stylish too, I have in mind create a subwoofer box with a shape of a turbine jet.
Maybe you can build it if I gave you the idea that I have in mind
Exactly my thoughts! What a wasted opportunity here to make some shapes that are very hard to make through other techniques. It does sounds good otherwise.
Thanks. I will attempt something a bit more complex in future. Its my 1st real try at 3D printing, so just working my way up to it. However, I prefer more practical, functional and natural aesthetic designs, not sure it will be a jet turbine. But thanks for the imspiration!
Thanks. The best opportunity is to just make something, and then take it from there. I wanted something very plain, so ot could fit into my lounge without attracting too much attention. Dont think more organic shapes would have worked here. But perhaps for another oroject in the future.
@@SoundBlab speakers enclosures is no kids play and you've done an awesome job indeed. I was just thinking 3d printing offers some interesting opportunities. Looking forward to your new projects.
Thanks man, appreciated!
Awesome video. I just wish we could get the daytona speakers locally, parts express's shipping to SA is a bit crazy .
Thanks! These days, importing from Europe is less expensive. Try Soundimports or TLHP.
@@SoundBlab thanks Mr soundblab
PLA sucks for subwoofers. I printed one from Hexibase and it rattled even with 50% infill. I tried PEG, just as bad. Back to good old Birch board. The 3D print is great for the vent tubes or intricates vents but not as a cabinet. I was thinking of printing with 10% infill then pump concrete in between the walls of the PLA cabinet but never got around to doing it.
this one seems impressively braced - the 3 sections with thick bracing between, i'd imagine resonance would be far above the 150hz crossover point
ive got a hexibase one printed in pla with no rattles and a personal sub design with no rattles either, plus a set of speakers , its likely stringing in the walls or some wall not quite touching each other, try turning off 'avoid crossing outline' as this makes stringing occur in the infill, and turn wiping on as well as outline overlap to 35-40% . Ive had to reprint so many for similar issues but find these setting helped alot (i use simplify 3d but i think cura has similar settings) . But with the hexibase build it will make port noise if running above tuning frequency so keep that in mind also.
If the sub in this video doesnt rattle, hexibase pla sub when he makes it doesnt rattle and mine doesnt i think its your print settings!
Love the builds on your channel which is why i am subscribed. :)
In this build how much filament should i assume to use in the process?
1. Subwoofer
2. Front, Center and surround
Thx in advance
You are looking at between 3 and 4 1kg spools for full 5.1 set at 20-30% infill.
Awesome work! Thank you for sharing this
Glad you enjoyed it!
nice enginering man
Thanks
Great idea 💡
Thanks
I think Pla will not produce warm sound as wood.
Very nice!
Thanks
Nice build for a medium to large can u make a larger sub or 2 drivers in sub to generate more pressure. I won’t mind using a powerful amp instead of lepai Also I see u r a TB fan. Would be great to see some peerless drivers used too
Thanks! You can even use two subs, but the one actually really does a good job and two might even be overkill.
Tang Band really are little weapons
Jip sure are!
Hello. I found your channel today and I think I watched every video! Quick question…I’m planning an stereo upgrade in my bedroom/TV room which is rather small at 12feet wide and 10feet deep with the listening position in the bed 10 feet away from the TV wall. What type of speaker design would you use for a room like this? I can’t have large tower speakers on the floor as it’ll simply clog up the living space. I was thinking an extra large sound bar with left right and center built into the same bar would be the cleanest look for the room but I’m unsure if it’ll have the best sound quality.
Thanks in advance.
A sound bar is a good option, if you get one that has decent sound. Some also come with a small subwoofer for bass, or some have limited bass response built in with passive radiators.
NICE JOB
Thanks
Would there be repercussions to sound quality if I was to do the exact same build with wood?
No, as long as you keep the internal volumes the same, and the size and length of the port in the sub the same.
The only and big question: how have you calculate your enclosures??
From an other builder: You must test for medium and high frequencys a linear amplifier.
Class D is only suitable for bass boxes. High freq are so agressive...
I have a big experience with all TPA ics, if you want to exchange...
For your big room a 8 inch is a better choice. Test your sub in your sleeping room... ;-)
Great channel! Best from France!
I used WinISD to calculate enclosure sizes. The 6inch works rather well. An 8 inch would be better, but the 6 is more than able to keep up and produce enough bass. Thanks! Keep well!
@@SoundBlab WinISD is the best freeware.
If what you listen to is enough with a 6 inch great good you do...
@@SoundBlab It's my pc software too. An internet adress in my language make the same and little different. I make a mix.
My first was caad from monacor late 90's.
I listen wide sort of music an i search best for all. For rock or pop a 6 is for me a great choice. I have build a 2.1 with the 5" tang band. It's totally crazy in a 18m2 room!!
Have a nice day!!
Very nice 👍
Thanks!
Perfect ✌️
Thanks ✌️
I like Wood Speaker, plastic is s...
Can I use the 4ohm Dayton FRversion can’t get the 8 ohm in my country
Nope, only the 8 ohm version will work with the designed filter components.
Question: what about the interference pattern (comb filtering) between the two identical drivers?
Comb filtering at a typical distance when listening to speakers such as this is not a problem. It only really becomes a problem when you listen near-field. At a longer distance room reflections start to play a role and will potentially cause much more issues depending on your room. For this size driver, it should start only around 7KHz or so, but my measurements even at 1m did not show any unusual comb filtering in this case. Should you place the two drivers much further apart, only then will the difference in distance between the two drivers and your ears cause a phase cancellation since the sound from each will arrive at your ears at different times, but so close together, they act almost as one driver.
@@SoundBlab, thank you for the detailed explanation, I appreciate it.
@@SoundBlab thanks for clarification. I has same doubt.
What's the name of the first movie (World War I)?
Dunkirk
The dma 58 are 2 inch and not 2.5 inch right?
Yes, you are correct. My bad.
Which program do you use for 3d design
For this build I used Onshape.
what is the software 3D name?
Onshape
@@SoundBlab great, thank you
👊👍😲❤️
I love your work ..
but Why do you pronounce it boolding?
Build and building is ”Billt/billd and billding”
Thanks. LOL. I suppose its just my South African accent coming through.
My gawd those cabs must sound terrible ,,resonance ect,,,
They don’t