This has been EXTREMELY HELPFUL! I was using an open end wrench to break them loose and one of mine would not open up. In the past, I have ripped the nipple off going too hard and wanted to avoid it at this time. Using a socket and lots of wd-40 helped. I also did the banging process to loosen things up but the big difference this time around was finding a socket instead of an open end wrench. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! I started this job weeks ago and gave up to avoid breaking bleeder. Sprayed WD40 here and there to get it ready for my next attempt weeks later. Had same issues until I pulled out the socket. Wish I knew this years ago when I struggled with other bleeders....
I struggled with this for years, now it’s the first thing I grab for is a socket. It’s way better if it’s a six point instead of a 12 Point. If it looks like the bleeder screw is starting to strip out, for about a dollar from rock auto I put in a new bleeder screw.
In addition to the other comment on using 6 point sockets , if it is rounded , hammer an old drill bit in the bleeder hole to prevent it from collapsing , cut it flush , hammer it or use the air hammer with a blunt end to vibrate it . Then a BOLT OUT socket . Sears , Irwin , Lisle , etc. have them . Heat it and hit it with CRC Freeze Off helps .
Sounds like you’ve been doing this stuff for a while. That’s interesting to Fill the void with an old drill bit so it won’t collapse. Those bolt out sockets are amazing, something that actually works. 👍👍
you lost me for a minute at "take off the rubber thing," but then i remembered the caps that didn't come w/ the truck, hence the reason i'm watching this video today. previous owner really liked some mud
The caps don't matter much, they only cover the opening for liquid. The bolt is still typically exposed and crumbling. But if you can find caps long enough to cover the whole deal..
Wire brush nipple especially threaded part. You can spray wd40. Insert shank of tight fit steel drill bit. Break drill bit off flush with hammer. Heat nipple with accetelyn torch,quench with water. Repeat heating/cooling process another time. Also you can tap hammer top of bleed screw with smaller socket that fits on top of hex of nipple. Heating and quenching is most important part of process even if nipple is rounded. Good luck
When you remove the bleeder screw does the brake fluid not leak out? Should you clamp the brake hose first or that not recommended as it will collaplse the hose?
What I do with a rusted fastener is spray penetrating fluid, grab the appropriate wrench or socket and ratchet. I have a set of pickle forks that I can attach to my air hammer. I put the wrench on the bolt and the air hammer on the end and pull the trigger while applying turning force on the wrench
Using those 12 points instead of 6 points are part of what strips them out to begin with. The rust is just the nail on the coffin. I said screw it and just changed out my front calipers last week after stripping out the bleeders. Figured 10 years was long enough
The socket and ratchet you're using is the same one I used (Craftsman) but the socket wasn't deep enough to fit. In other words the nipple was too long for the socket.
I’ve definitely had that happen before. Sometimes the ratchet won’t fully seat but usually there’s enough grab to loosen the bleeder screw. If possible or longer socket makes it easier. It’s also better if you can have a six point instead of a 12 point socket
If you ever replace any rusted and ceased nut or anything that has male threads go to your local autoparts/tools store and pick up a small bottle of anti ceasing compound. Buddy in the video might have his bleeder valve get frozen and do that all over again
I have found that spraying the bleeder with PB blaster and using a good pair of needle nosed vise grips worked wonders for breaking them loose. Just be sure that the grips clamp down onto the flat part of the hex and that the grip is as tight as you can get it, then carefully but firmly work back and forth until you can just begin to feel some movement, hit it again with PB blaster then turn to loosen. Worked for me every time and doing this does not round out the hex, at least for me it didn't, but you have to ensure the grip is tight and not gripping the bleeder right at the tip of the grips, but deeper, maybe like 1/3 to 1/2 way in. I've used this method many a times when I came across a bleeder that wouldn't budge by other methods, including the one described in this video. Removing the tire makes this a whole lot easier as well.
Have you ever heard of a brake mechanic that was too afraid to try to bleeds brakes for fear of breaking the bleeder nipple due to so much rust? "ie Tire Kingdom" they never bleed them after repairs 300 miles ago & the breaks are really spongy now but rust is everywhere, 2004 Trailblazer last 6 years near Ocean in S Fl.
I typically use lithium grease because it’s the cheapest. Because it’s not a bearing you don’t have to worry Grease incompatibility. So literally any type of grease that will keep the rust down. If the grease nipple is covered in grease salt can’t get to it. Definitely worth your time. Hope the answer helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
The one grease that is compatible with DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1 brake fluid is Red Rubber Grease. I personally use Fusch Renolit Rubber Grease JP, which is the one Subaru recommends using inside the caliper cylinder bore to grease the piston square seal o-ring and the cylinder groove in which the square seal fits.
That's the solution for many at-home mechanics. Usually with enough patience, penetrating oil, a drill, and an easy-out, you can still get a broken one out.
Forgive me but are we not just common sense. I am not sure why you felt the need to share that as anyone with a modicum of grey matter would use a socket in the first instance. So how about when you have a link pipe (eg Brembo 18z) no chance of getting a socket on that one!
With good quality tools you got no worries. Be a cheap bastard well..... Your tools are at risk so you get online and cry about others doing what you can't do. As a mechanic who is under and around cars daily for 20 years you don't always wanna waste time looking for a hammer. Calm your tits
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Use 6 point wrenches and sockets to prevent rounding the hex nut.
And hit the new screw with a little anti-seize.
I had succes removing super rusted bleeder screws using lot of patience, aboundant PB-Blaster, and a propane blow torch !
This has been EXTREMELY HELPFUL! I was using an open end wrench to break them loose and one of mine would not open up. In the past, I have ripped the nipple off going too hard and wanted to avoid it at this time. Using a socket and lots of wd-40 helped. I also did the banging process to loosen things up but the big difference this time around was finding a socket instead of an open end wrench. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! I started this job weeks ago and gave up to avoid breaking bleeder. Sprayed WD40 here and there to get it ready for my next attempt weeks later. Had same issues until I pulled out the socket. Wish I knew this years ago when I struggled with other bleeders....
I struggled with this for years, now it’s the first thing I grab for is a socket. It’s way better if it’s a six point instead of a 12 Point. If it looks like the bleeder screw is starting to strip out, for about a dollar from rock auto I put in a new bleeder screw.
In addition to the other comment on using 6 point sockets , if it is rounded , hammer an old drill bit in the bleeder hole to prevent it from collapsing , cut it flush , hammer it or use the air hammer with a blunt end to vibrate it . Then a BOLT OUT socket . Sears , Irwin , Lisle , etc. have them . Heat it and hit it with CRC Freeze Off helps .
Sounds like you’ve been doing this stuff for a while. That’s interesting to Fill the void with an old drill bit so it won’t collapse. Those bolt out sockets are amazing, something that actually works. 👍👍
appreci8 you making this video. this is so helpful & made my day with it being straightforward
Nice video Sir! I have used this method from time to time over the years - works well, and avoids rounding off the nipple.
you lost me for a minute at "take off the rubber thing," but then i remembered the caps that didn't come w/ the truck, hence the reason i'm watching this video today. previous owner really liked some mud
The caps don't matter much, they only cover the opening for liquid. The bolt is still typically exposed and crumbling. But if you can find caps long enough to cover the whole deal..
EXACTLY what I needed! Looks exactly like my bleeder thx!!
Wire brush nipple especially threaded part. You can spray wd40. Insert shank of tight fit steel drill bit. Break drill bit off flush with hammer. Heat nipple with accetelyn torch,quench with water. Repeat heating/cooling process another time. Also you can tap hammer top of bleed screw with smaller socket that fits on top of hex of nipple. Heating and quenching is most important part of process even if nipple is rounded. Good luck
never use your rachets as a hammer though
Why
@@jaymeztherapper2496 I did it and none of my ratchets work anymore.
no idea what causes it but it will break at some point
Everything is a hammer
I have a problem with that I've broke a few as well
There any way to prevent rust on the bleeder screw? Can you spray it with oil or anything?
When you remove the bleeder screw does the brake fluid not leak out? Should you clamp the brake hose first or that not recommended as it will collaplse the hose?
Every tool has a hammer end!
And the owner of the tool is a bellend. 🥒💦
What I do with a rusted fastener is spray penetrating fluid, grab the appropriate wrench or socket and ratchet. I have a set of pickle forks that I can attach to my air hammer. I put the wrench on the bolt and the air hammer on the end and pull the trigger while applying turning force on the wrench
Nice video! I was trying a line wrench and it wasn’t working, but the 9MM was the right idea. Thanks!
👍
is that an special remover socket or just a regular one?
Using those 12 points instead of 6 points are part of what strips them out to begin with. The rust is just the nail on the coffin. I said screw it and just changed out my front calipers last week after stripping out the bleeders. Figured 10 years was long enough
Ya I probably should get new calipers too. My bleeder valve just snapped off at the threads
What a good video . Very educational… thank you for your knowledge…..
you are THE BEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ( there ...is bunch of chatterbox..)
When you took the broken bleeder completely out how come alot of fluid didn't come out?
The hole is probably blocked by rust as mine was.
Any tips on a leaking bleeder around the threads? Might not be seating correctly when tightened
The socket and ratchet you're using is the same one I used (Craftsman) but the socket wasn't deep enough to fit. In other words the nipple was too long for the socket.
I’ve definitely had that happen before. Sometimes the ratchet won’t fully seat but usually there’s enough grab to loosen the bleeder screw. If possible or longer socket makes it easier. It’s also better if you can have a six point instead of a 12 point socket
The drain hose should be higher than the bleeder valve. It's what the other people say in their videos. Chris Fix being one of them.
3:26 That Caliper is from the stone age. Definitely seen better days lol holy cow
mine on my tundra look like that inside their first year.
If you ever replace any rusted and ceased nut or anything that has male threads go to your local autoparts/tools store and pick up a small bottle of anti ceasing compound. Buddy in the video might have his bleeder valve get frozen and do that all over again
I have found that spraying the bleeder with PB blaster and using a good pair of needle nosed vise grips worked wonders for breaking them loose. Just be sure that the grips clamp down onto the flat part of the hex and that the grip is as tight as you can get it, then carefully but firmly work back and forth until you can just begin to feel some movement, hit it again with PB blaster then turn to loosen. Worked for me every time and doing this does not round out the hex, at least for me it didn't, but you have to ensure the grip is tight and not gripping the bleeder right at the tip of the grips, but deeper, maybe like 1/3 to 1/2 way in. I've used this method many a times when I came across a bleeder that wouldn't budge by other methods, including the one described in this video. Removing the tire makes this a whole lot easier as well.
What is the name of the special vice grips ?
Yess
Where do I buy That Hammer?
Cringe. !
Come on boys we have all done that or something similar no need to break balls😆
Have you ever heard of a brake mechanic that was too afraid to try to bleeds brakes for fear of breaking the bleeder nipple due to so much rust? "ie Tire Kingdom" they never bleed them after repairs 300 miles ago & the breaks are really spongy now but rust is everywhere, 2004 Trailblazer last 6 years near Ocean in S Fl.
Nice hammer!
What kind of grease ?
I typically use lithium grease because it’s the cheapest. Because it’s not a bearing you don’t have to worry Grease incompatibility. So literally any type of grease that will keep the rust down. If the grease nipple is covered in grease salt can’t get to it. Definitely worth your time. Hope the answer helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
Live Free tyvm, I appreciate the advice
The one grease that is compatible with DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1 brake fluid is Red Rubber Grease. I personally use Fusch Renolit Rubber Grease JP, which is the one Subaru recommends using inside the caliper cylinder bore to grease the piston square seal o-ring and the cylinder groove in which the square seal fits.
If I always replace rusty bleeder valves; otherwise put some anti seize on old ones after cleaning threads.
I used a heat gun with Wd- 40 with small impact gun
I would have greased or used antiseize on the new bleeder screw threads before installing the bleeder. It might save your ass next time.
Agreed, anti-seize absolutely should be used when putting back the bleeder screw.
Primitive Pete... beating up his ratchet.
Why is it soo rusted?
If the car sits in water, for example Houston/Louisiana heavy rains/floods, the metal typically rusts.
Cheers!
👍
its 3/8th
Thx :)
Wait? I was told if the bleeder screw broke I would have to get a caliber! Am I being lied too?
That's the solution for many at-home mechanics. Usually with enough patience, penetrating oil, a drill, and an easy-out, you can still get a broken one out.
If you change the rusty caliper, Midas well change the old brake hose, too.
some times it's cheaper to just swap the part. especially if your paying a shop to do it at their really high shop rates.
Baby and I mean Baby pipe wrench works best
Forgive me but are we not just common sense. I am not sure why you felt the need to share that as anyone with a modicum of grey matter would use a socket in the first instance.
So how about when you have a link pipe (eg Brembo 18z) no chance of getting a socket on that one!
Stopped watching as soon as you started beating the socket with the ratchet.....
i do it all the time my shits fine
@@wesleeysutton5935 Wesleey, I am very glad to hear that your shit is fine.
With good quality tools you got no worries. Be a cheap bastard well..... Your tools are at risk so you get online and cry about others doing what you can't do.
As a mechanic who is under and around cars daily for 20 years you don't always wanna waste time looking for a hammer. Calm your tits
@@fatdaddygaming9102 he probably cant.
lol clearly not a 9mm if you gotta hammer your socket onto it.. then you manage breaking one.. *Facepalm*
You clearly don't know how rust works
Dufus your ratchet is not a hammer real amateur, by the looks of the layers and layers of rust on your calipers you need new ones