How To Remove A Seized Brake Bleeder Screw - BEST METHOD
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this video i show you how to remove a rusted stuck stripped brake bleeder screw. This method always works, but might take a few tries.
This is the tool that i mentioned that shocks the bleeder screw, but you do need an air hammer for it to work:
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klowny1969 - best car mechanic on youtube
Only clown mechanic in the world !
Snapped off a few of those years ago because I didn't know what I was doing. Great instructional video here. Patience and no swearing like most of us.
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Thank you for your video your direction worked just as you said. I was trying to remove the bleeders on my 30-year old F 150 Ford. I was heating it with no luck, who knew adding ice water would do the trick it broke loose on the third time. Thank you Dan
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Nice Video, Clowny. An old farmer taught me this trick about 40 years ago. Using Oxy-Acetylene to get dull cherry red... use a bucket of water (nowadays I'd drill a 1/8" hole in the cap of a pop bottle) and pour a cup or two on it. We always heat-cycled it 5-10 times. Nowadays I recommend using grey anti-seize on the screw, too. I always crack the bleeders open when I'm doing a brake job, gravity bleed a little - keeps the bleeders from seizing. But after using grey anti-seize, I've never had one that needed the heat-and-quench method.
yes! good tip! thanks for watching and commenting!
I've worked on cars for 40 years and had never heard that drill bit tip before to give the bleed screw some structure and prevent it from breaking apart when using a vise grip (hitting my forehead silly). I knew about the heat, but the quick cooling, not. Makes total sense. You rock, Dude! Tomorrow I'm going to try again using your method and keep my fingers crossed :-)
Good luck keep me posted
@@klowny1969 I will, Man! And I just found out you can also slip a nut onto the bleeder if it's become rounded, gives it more meat to use a wrench on it afterwards :-)
It took 5 or 6 cycles on one side, 3 or 4 on the other, but I used a variant of this tip to give me all the help I needed considering this is on a 29 year old JDM vehicle for which parts are at best difficult to source !!!
I first heated the bleeder while keeping the caliper cool with water (this compresses any rust in the threads and slightly enlarges the hole), cooling the bleeder suddenly as recommended, then for the following cycle I heated the caliper while keeping the bleeder cool and so on 3 times before testing.
After 3 cycles like that, I inserted my drill bit sized to the bleeder hole to give the seriously rust-weakened bleeder some extra support and instead of trying to remove the bleeder directly, I just tapped rapidly and lightly on the vise grip with a hammer to tighten it first, then untighten it. If it didn't move, like on the first bolt, I repeated the heating and cooling cycle another few times and it eventually came off.
To sum it up:
- If at first you don't succeed, try and try again, it will eventually come off.
- Don't force the screw loose, it will shear and then you'll be in deep trouble.
- Use alternate heating and cooling cycles of the bleeder then the caliper in rapid succession, this should break the most stubborn bond between screw and caliper
- Use a pin or drill bit in the bleeder hole to give it strength to resist squishing by vise-grip
- Once tightly fastened, tap the vise grip lightly in rapid succession to tighten it and only then towards untightening.
- If the bleeder still isn't loosened yet, repeat the heating and cooling cycles process.
- Be smart - Don't use your might, Be patient and persevere, if you refrain from excessive force, the metal will have enough strength left to allow unscrewing the bleeder.
Thank you again for your great tips, hope my testimony will be useful :-)
Smart man...knows when to stop before making the whole situation worse 3:02
Saved me from giving up and buying new caliper set. Used shock oil and crème brûlée torch instead, worked amazing. Thanks a lot!
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The real secret to backing out rusted bleeders is to do everything Mr. Klowney says in the video, & when it won't come out the first time, go back inside, pour a beverage, relax & rewatch the video. Even if it takes five times. Just took me 4 1/2 hours to back mine out of my F-250 S. Duty. Would not have happened without this video. T.Y sir!!! (-:
I found this link, reviewed it and it worked like a champ today. It took two hits - the second time, I really heated the bleeder and chilled it with an upside down duster can...it worked like a champ. Many thanks!!! Great video - thanks for sharing!!
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Thanks Klown! I stuck a nail in the hole. Heated and cooled 3 times used lots of penetrating oil and to my thrill amazement and shock it came out with no problem. Best advice I ever got from a Klown.
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Some engineer needs to devote a little time on these things, with the new materials available, polymers, teflons, they've been making bleeders, zerk fittings, spark plugs, for a hundred years, and we still fight with them, it's about time they went the way of distributor points and Millie Vanille...
Great video. The induction heater is cool. I always said that they should have a Mechanics 101 class - where removing rusted on fasteners is a main topic.
Yes, you encounter that alot with cars..thanks for watching
I used a propane gas torch with a metal shield to protect the brake hose rubber. It took 3 attempts each caliper to break it free. I would heat it for 1 minute and the directly apply a ice cube to the bleeder screw. The screws were severely stripped from a professional mechanic who did the first, only and last brake replacement on my truck. Great video, great advice, thanks for the help.
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Thank you so much!! I was going to give up after 2 days of struggling. The heat made the difference.
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Exactly what I am up against. Great to see someone else dealing with rust. Bare metal rusts overnight where I live and videos of clean undercarriages make me crazy. I was heating without cooling. Cheers
lol i hear ya..dont forget to subscribe
klowny1969 it worked by the way.
@@snottyvar Good news!
klowny1969 I ended up using a clamp to tighten the vice grips to give a little extra grip.
I believe Phoenix Systems and S.U.R.&R both make the bleeder removal tool . After you put the metal in the bleeder screw to prevent it from collapsing , I would hit it with the air hammer with a blunt end to vibrate it - just like the tool . Instead of vise grips , get a set of Bolt Out sockets . Sears , Irwin , Lisle and others have them . They grip the head like an easy out . And the torch never hurts with Freeze Off .
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Gotta get her all hot, bothered and cooled off before you back it out. No butter sauce here baby! As always great tips and how to vids Klowny!
Lol..I should have you be my writer..thanks for watching and commenting!
@@klowny1969 And thanks for doing these vids . Look forward to every one!
Tried penetrating oil one week in advance and again the night before; forget it. Still seized. Cheap remanufactured calipers come with cheap bleeder screws and they eventually rust-weld together. Penetrating oil won't work at all. Followed this method but also applied some heat to the body of the caliper area around the screw. Seems like inserting the copper into the shaft of the screw helps to transfer some heat down into the bottom of the screw where allot of the corrosion exists. Worked great. Now when someone asks me about this technique, I'll say I learned it from some clown on YT! LOL
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The heat inductor he used is the absolute best tool for that job. Also perfect for ball joints or anything else like that.
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I hear you can drip candle wax in and works ..
Good stuff man!!!
This tip makes so much sense. DIY attempt ,ran into this problem. OEM Caliphers and brake shield old,rusted
My used 2013 c300 belly is so neglected🤢🤢🙀Now,heading to the auto mech. Hopefully to replace bleeder screws so I can finish my brake job.
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Tip: Use a good flarenut wrench, snap on is best. Apply tension while you vibrate female threads with an air hammer. And applying tension while cooling after heating should help it break free easier. You can also lightly tap the wrench with a dead blow hammer, or use an impact driver and 6 point socket on low torque.
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Well done, thanks
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Will be trying this in a couple of days as it’s now Christmas Eve, wife won’t be happy if I attempt tomorrow 🥳👍😢
Lol sweet..good luck
Well done bud , penetrating fluid never worked for me. 👍
Thanks Steve!! Yes, it usually never does lol Heat and a little patience works all the time. Thanks for passing by again!
Took me 4 times, few taps, and wd40 for cool down. Used a little ani seize with the new screws.
Thanks for video.
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A friend of mine told me when he did a frame off restoration on his 70 Chevelle he used a torch to heat up the nuts and bolts during deconstruction. Then he replaced them all with new ones.
Yes, depending on where you live..the rust can get pretty bad..thanks for watching and commenting
Never had this problem, but my project car is 21 y/o and since this is applicable to any frozen screw or joint, it's good to know what products to buy to make it a quick, clean, stressless job. Thanks !!!
Thanks for watching and commenting on my video.
This video is great!!!😊
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Love your videos Klowny. Your a cool guy.
Thanks man!!
Great ideas!!
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I thought the heating thing works because the heat goes everywhere and heats both the screw and the caliper. Both expand. Then you put the freeze spray on the screw to make it contract. Now you have a contracted screw in an expanded hole which should come loose much more easily. So, I think the torch is better than the inductive heater because it heats everything while the spray just cools the screw. At least, if you do it all with that in mind. I think that what the 3 times does is a little more heat soaks into the caliper each time but the cooling is quick and only affects the screw.
I like the nail idea and will use it.
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do you need to clamp off the brake hose when swapping out the bleeder scerew? Concerned that lots of fluid will leak out.
You can if you want..I usually work quick enough for that to not be an issue..don't forget to subscribe and ring that bell
Honda Accord Broke it below the hex bolt, easy out just kept stripping. Just a cheap aluminum? metal bleeder valve.
Good stuff, I've had some success tapping sharply with a hammer while applying steady turning pressure on the screw.
Yep, my mechanic dad would do that with stuck lug nuts...
Very well done. Learned several good tips. Going now to remove a rounded bleeder from my ‘74 CJ5
Nice..good luck!
I got a 75 cj5 and the bleeder is completely rounded too lol is this just a jeep thing or what
Can you post a video about a smaller brake bleeder on the back drum that’s hard to get to and also frozen
Use the same technique..thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Do you recommend putting and anti seize or thread lock into the bleeder screw to prevent this happening in the future?
No need to out anything on it..you can out a little grease on the threads if you want..also no need for clamping the hose..not much brake fluid will come out..don't forget to subscribe 😉
❤️ such a kickass video. Thanks!
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QUESTION: do you treat the threads on a new bleeder with anti-seize ?
You can put a little..don't go too crazy..and don't forget to subscribe
like the induction heater
They are awesome
Another awesome repair K-Man!
Thank you sir!
Great tips, I'm about to try them out on my trucks caliper. However, when I do the repeated heat then cool down of the bleeder wouldn't it be more effective to do that without a drill bit inside the bleeder? I'm thinking the bleeder would be able to expand and contract easier without the drill bit in the hole.
Sure you can try it..good luck and don't forget to subscribe
@@klowny1969 After thinking about it I went and did it was you showed, leaving the rod in the center of the bleeder and it WORKED. Thanks for the great tips.
Is there not a problem with using heat when the brake fluid is inflammable?
Great Video Klown!! Keep up the great work!
Thank you sir!
Took my vehicle to Midas, After 3 hours they tell me "Bad news, our bleeder machine went down but we got it working; your calipers are rusty and we snapped the bleeder screw on the rear driver side and front pax side, we recommend to replace all calipers with xxxxx estimate" My question is "why did you not tell me this issue 2 hrs ago when you broke the 1st nipple, why did you proceed to break the front right nipple after breaking the 1st one without informing me...the front right is not next in the progression!. These are supposed to be professionals
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Some good ideas, that work.
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Thank you.
Hey clowny great videos man🔥but i have a third gen with a 454 in it should i put a 700r4 built or do you suggest something else?? Kinda at a lost right now
Wow! This worked amazing, thanks a million!
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I'm about to perform a total brake overhaul for my '92 Z28, including shocks, springs and struts, transmission mount is bad. It's an all around disc set-up with the PBR rear calipers from my research. I'm swapping out calipers, pads, hoses and wheel bearings and ultimately flush the old brake fluid out. Anything else you can advise?
seems like you covered everything..i have a "complete brake overhaul" video where i covered everything you are about to do. i like using the nickle copper brake lines, easy to bend and to flare as well...good luck
When should brake lines be replaced? Now I'm thinking master brake cylinder too. I'm always looking up to you and your videos for real info. Thanks a million 😼
Brake lines should be replaced if you visually see rust or rot on them..depending where you live, it can make a big difference in how long your brake lines last for. Master cylinder is cheap enough to replace as well..up to you..thanks for watching my vids
Use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid, seals will never need replacing again.
Awesome video my man, truly appreciate the info👍🏿😎. Salute
Hi was great video
Just a question
Why first heat up the plug then cool off?
Heat cause it to expand right?
Why not just spray with freezer up without getting hot???
Thanks a lot
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@@klowny1969 thanks a lot for reply
Thank you ... Brother..❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
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Much obliged.
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Great tip Klowny
Thanks sir
Good tips, thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting
Great job!!
Thanks..don't forget to subscribe
My favorite klown!!!
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My truck calipers are $170 not cheap
More the reason to get that bleeder out! Don't forget to subscribe 😉
Bleeder screws and hydraulic controll valves Seal by way of the tapered angular seat. NOT by being torqued tight like other bolts ect. People believe they are a high pressure safety issue, so they must be tight. BUT that is a misconception. The tapered wedge design keep them in place so well that they literally come out harder than they were initially installed. This is the number one cause of bleeders sticking. I install them at one pound torque and in thirty years they have never leaked or stuck. For another instance, hydraulic jacks Ect. have the handle / bar with a grove in it that fits the control valve. This is only there to keep the user away from the load or to stay out of the mud and dirt. But people think it is needed because the valve has to be really tight. but this is incorrect and it will destroy the seat so it has to be tightened more and more untill it finally wont seal at all.
What happens is, water gets into them and freezes/rusts them solid..keep those bleeder caps on!!
Sounds like Arnold Schwarzenegger is narrating this.
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Never use a 12 point wrench on those bleeders lol I've seen someone strip a couple of then back to back..
All I know is you never ever should heat the actual bleeder screw but I like the idea of using the wire or nail
Heating the bleeder screw does not harm anything..dont forget to subscribe
I never cool down my metal after using the red wrench just Pure heat till its real red hot nor does anyone at fedex where I’m a Diesel truck manager
You can do it that way too..but this actually shocks the bleeder..don't forget to subscribe
What happens if you do that and snap it off
If it snaps then you can put in an easy out and start the heat process again with what is left in there
@@klowny1969 I snapped mine off I had to get a new caliper
I didn't know that
I know it now for next time
Ty
Np..anytime.
Good effort but impractical for the home mechanic. How many of us have this inductive heating gadget!? It even says on it "For Professional Use only".
use a torch..same thing..i mentioned that in the video..dont fkrget to subscribe
Keanu Reeves?
That's me!! Don't forget to subscribe
You don't heat the nipple just the casting. Then cool the nipple. This maximum hot cold difference
You heat the nipple and then cool it immediately..it will crack loose..don't forget to subscribe 😉
Don't use an easy out that never works !
It works 50% of the time..don't forget to subscribe 😉
nice
Thanks
Mine is in such a tight spot you can't even get a socket or anything on it. Pain in the ass
There has to be a way to get to it..don't forget to subscribe
Did you just say Calibers are cheap?
Last time I heated a bleeder w a torch, the rubber hose popped spraying boiling brake fluid everywhere
Must be very careful not to get the heat beyond the bleeder area
Dear Klowny 1969
By using flame around your brakes lines means you are really living up to your name🤡🤡
You will be fine if you are careful..don't forget to subscribe
They are all missing one thing!!!and im.not telling!!!
Heat, always heat.
yeah baby
@@klowny1969 lol I have a tiny butane soldering torch it's my most useful tool. I have taken off thousands of brake lines and stuck brake calipers. I light the little sucker and run the flame over the part for a minute or two that bolt always comes out!
Ice cubes work better to cool down
Sure that works too..don't forget to subscribe
Those calipers are beyond safe use replace the lot they are not that expansive
Guys Help.
I rounded bleeder, then tried vice grips, then snapped end off, did 6+ propane heat cycles, then snapped easy out inside, and did 5+ more heat cycles with propane + FreezeOff. NOTHING
Either you drill it out carefully or get another caliper at this point..don't forget to subscribe
As a professional RUclips mechanic myself I suggest just replace the caliper. I figure if one part is that messed up the rest is probably just as bad
Niceeee
Thank u
Rock Auto,calipers = $30.00
Not everybody has shit like that
Yep..that's why I showed different methods
Am i the only one that finds the liberty mutual commercials so annoying i would never ever use them..
Lol
If your poor or 50 miles 1 way from naapa....with care an thought bleed it with the break line. Not cussing but in Jesus name 🙏
screw that, just a get a new caliper
Lol yes that is an option
So sick of seeing made in China!
I hear ya
Time to start boycotting things made in China. Good demo
FAIL. YOU ONLY HEAT UP THE CALIPER PART. NOT THE THING YOU ARE GOING TO PULL OUT. HEAT WILL EXPAND THE HOLE WHERE THE BOLT OR BLEED VALVE IS. You cannot heat also the valve, because that will expand it and make it harder to remove. Geeee... Basic 5th grade science..