@natedogg89 stoked to hear it! Glad someone was able to get some usefull info from the video. Getting the old one out was the hardest part so 2x8s might be even easier to do. Best advise I can give is large batches of epoxy set up way faster than small batches so be careful and make sure you have everything ready when you start laying glass!
I've been through the rotted floor thing. If I had a bad transom I'd probably take the cap off. No small job, due to it's heavy weight. And all the engine controls and wiring that run up inside it's gunwales. With the cap removed, then easy access from bow to stern. And all the rot can be removed, replaced and re-glassed.
I might have to do this with my free 1966 Glastron. Runs and floats great, but the transom has seen better days. I hope to fix it right before it gets bad.
I had the transom rot out on my 14ft lowe jon boat. It was plywood. I went to a trusted local marine dealer who I have known for years. He told me to go to a local sawmill and get a piece of Oak and trim to fit. This is what I did. It is very strong now.
Oak is one of the best woods for water resistance as far as I know that's what they used to build warships from. The also make products like seacast for aluminum boats where you can pour a couple 5 gal buckets of the stuff into the gap and it sets hard as a rock. If my boat had a interior wall I would have went that route for sure!
Thank you for the comment! Yes the two outer stringers are wedged tight to the new transom and were glassed in so its all one unit essentially. The middle stringer was to short to reach the new transom due to removing the old bilge sump area, I thought about extending it but realized it would interfere with the new drain plug hole so I opted to cap that middle stringer with glass and resin to prevent any water ingress into that stringer channel. The gap between the end of the center stringer and the face of the transom ended up about 8 inches which i'm not stoked about but I can live with it knowing everything surrounding it is rock solid.
Those 70 Mercs have an issue with the thermostat. It sticks and when it finally open cold water hits the inside of the cylinder head and cause a crack. The block and head are once piece so the block is junk. Happened to two 70 Mercs I owned.
Thank you for the info! First time hearing about this, any fix? updated thermostat or housing? To be honest I didn't even realize outboards had thermostats tho most engines do I just assumed it was an open system since they "pee" on startup. Would love some more info on the issue if you have experience with these motors, I have some experience with normal engines but this is my first boat and outboard so im semi clueless. thanks for the comment!
Mate , I got 2 boats and one of them has the same motor 85 HP and the other one has a 50 HP just little bit newer , I had to make a decision to keep one of them for the boat I want to use but couldn't make my decision because this motor is very old and I'm not sure I can relay on this motor or not , the other option is buy a brand new Yamaha 60hp for around 13 k or if you really think that this motor is good , just spend couple of thousands and make this like brand new , I really don't know the best option
It wasn't all that bad, half a sheet of marine ply and some glass and now it's stronger and more protected from future damage than it ever was from the dealer 40 years ago. I've been really happy with it since the repair its been out about 20 times with many more to come before the seasons over so its already paid its self off to me.
The way the glasstron was design was planned obsolescence I guess, absolutly no protection for the transom and no drain from the interior of the shell to the bildge, will be rock solid for many many years now
tri-hulls are cool man, seems like they cut thru waves and wakes better than your standard bass boat, I can hit a roller at 40mph and not need a chiropractor after LOL seems like they rock side to side less when anchored up too like a flat bottom.
Just bought a 76 Glatron and transom was rebuilt with 2x8s. This video helped me out a lot. Not so nervous doing mine now
@natedogg89 stoked to hear it! Glad someone was able to get some usefull info from the video. Getting the old one out was the hardest part so 2x8s might be even easier to do. Best advise I can give is large batches of epoxy set up way faster than small batches so be careful and make sure you have everything ready when you start laying glass!
I've been through the rotted floor thing. If I had a bad transom I'd probably take the cap off. No small job, due to it's heavy weight. And all the engine controls and wiring that run up inside it's gunwales. With the cap removed, then easy access from bow to stern. And all the rot can be removed, replaced and re-glassed.
You have a good friend
I sure do! Couldn't have completed this project with out them and I'm very thankful for all their help.
I might have to do this with my free 1966 Glastron. Runs and floats great, but the transom has seen better days. I hope to fix it right before it gets bad.
Great little boats! Took mine out on the great lakes this weekend in 4ft rollers it handled it like a champ. highly recommend reviving these old gems.
@@ReelMichigan yup. Has a 40hp Evinrude from 1968 and it runs beautifully!
The good ole T159..!
Was the rest of the floor and stringers in decent shape or does all need to be replaced too?
The floor and stringers seem to be very solid from what I could see and feel but may have to take on that project in a few years.
I had the transom rot out on my 14ft lowe jon boat. It was plywood. I went to a trusted local marine dealer who I have known for years. He told me to go to a local sawmill and get a piece of Oak and trim to fit. This is what I did. It is very strong now.
Oak is one of the best woods for water resistance as far as I know that's what they used to build warships from. The also make products like seacast for aluminum boats where you can pour a couple 5 gal buckets of the stuff into the gap and it sets hard as a rock. If my boat had a interior wall I would have went that route for sure!
Great job guys 😀😀
Thank you!
Nice job hope runs good for long time
Thank you 💪
Did you extend the stringers to the transom? Should be tied in together. Great job on the glass work.
Thank you for the comment! Yes the two outer stringers are wedged tight to the new transom and were glassed in so its all one unit essentially. The middle stringer was to short to reach the new transom due to removing the old bilge sump area, I thought about extending it but realized it would interfere with the new drain plug hole so I opted to cap that middle stringer with glass and resin to prevent any water ingress into that stringer channel. The gap between the end of the center stringer and the face of the transom ended up about 8 inches which i'm not stoked about but I can live with it knowing everything surrounding it is rock solid.
Those 70 Mercs have an issue with the thermostat. It sticks and when it finally open cold water hits the inside of the cylinder head and cause a crack. The block and head are once piece so the block is junk. Happened to two 70 Mercs I owned.
Thank you for the info! First time hearing about this, any fix? updated thermostat or housing? To be honest I didn't even realize outboards had thermostats tho most engines do I just assumed it was an open system since they "pee" on startup. Would love some more info on the issue if you have experience with these motors, I have some experience with normal engines but this is my first boat and outboard so im semi clueless. thanks for the comment!
I have the exact same motor they are awesome
Mate , I got 2 boats and one of them has the same motor 85 HP and the other one has a 50 HP just little bit newer , I had to make a decision to keep one of them for the boat I want to use but couldn't make my decision because this motor is very old and I'm not sure I can relay on this motor or not , the other option is buy a brand new Yamaha 60hp for around 13 k or if you really think that this motor is good , just spend couple of thousands and make this like brand new , I really don't know the best option
Awesome job with the repair. Hope it runs for ever 😂
You and me both! 😂 Thanks for watching!
How much did you buy it for?
1900$ usd
@@ReelMichigan ouch. That's looks like a $400 boat to me
Cant get a fishing kayak for 400$ these days 😂
@@ReelMichigan looks like you could have built one with all the wood and fiberglass you used on that boat.
It wasn't all that bad, half a sheet of marine ply and some glass and now it's stronger and more protected from future damage than it ever was from the dealer 40 years ago. I've been really happy with it since the repair its been out about 20 times with many more to come before the seasons over so its already paid its self off to me.
90% of fiberglass boats with wood cores are totally rotted out
The way the glasstron was design was planned obsolescence I guess, absolutly no protection for the transom and no drain from the interior of the shell to the bildge, will be rock solid for many many years now
I have a 77 with 70 hp try hull
tri-hulls are cool man, seems like they cut thru waves and wakes better than your standard bass boat, I can hit a roller at 40mph and not need a chiropractor after LOL seems like they rock side to side less when anchored up too like a flat bottom.
also thank you for the comment!
Same thing happened to me I got scammed for 2,000$ 😂😂 shame on me I guess. My boat and motor is basically the same
@nathangutierrez0923 Live and learn lol all we can do! Its a doable job if you like the boat and the motors good
Nice work now im not so stressed on doing mine looked not thst hsrd at all
Glad I could help
nice job boys
Thank you for watching 🙏