Amen! Haha... I cringe when I see the drill and fill tutorials. Cutting the deck off is a lot of work but the only REPAIR option. Everything else is just a temporary "improvement" and passing your problems to the next owner.
Got a free 22 foot catalina with bad front deck. Been unsure how to even start repairs. This is great! Former owner(s) even screwed a piece of metal flashing around the hatch (I assume trying to stop leaks???).
Just did a Hunter 27TM 1982,,mast base rot between the hatches, came out excellent,,west systems and end grain balsa, which I dumpster dived from the model airplane factory,,,,also portside port lights (typical leaks) had to re cored at two windows,,,,90% done with stem to stern rebuild,,,Someday I'll compile the work.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Just did the finishing touch up on the mast step/soft deck repair,,,,And I have a hard time seeing where the cuts were,,,only one small corner, where I ran out of top coat (thick WestSystems),,,The Kiwi Grip hid alot,,,,,,,splashing on Saturday,,,yippie 2 years of work,,,,,
Can you please do a tutorial on how to fix a structural soft spot on a catamaran below waterline? Or perhaps I can get in touch with you for advice? Thanks!
I have a soft spot (maybe 2'x3') above the grab rail. I know the grab rail is the source of the leak. People have said that since the spot is above the grab rail it is not the source of the leak. Since it is balsa end grain core, isn't it possible for the water to "wick up" and do damage? Also, since I am pretty sure I caught this in the early stages, is it possible to drill only to give it an opportunity to dry out? or is what you are doing in this video the only way? BTW - I saw video two and that sucks that the boat got knocked down. Thanks.
if that entire foredeck was rotten, would you literally cut the foredeck off from one side to the other and then re-do a new foredeck ? I'm kinda wondering how you'd reattached the glass on the inside to the sides of the fore hull. thanks !
We always leave the inside or lower fiberglass skin intact. Then leave as much as you can of the outside edge of the outer fiberglass skin to grind and re-attach to. The core never goes all the way out to the edge of the deck and rarely does it go past the outside edge of the nonskid. Cut as much as you need, recore with balsa, foam or plywood and epoxy the upper deck back on. "Grind and tape? The edges and you are set.
Nice Video! I have the same problem on my boat and am going to replace these parts. Is it better to replace the rotten parts from the outside of the deck or is it also possible to do the repair from inside of for example the saloon?
I have done both. There is a LOT of fiberglass dust involved. Where would you like it to be? Inside or outside. And there are a few tricks to hanging new core above your head. But both ways work. An each has advantages.
I think the only way epoxy injection works (probably still partially), is when they put micro holes in your boat hull and inject it with sustained hot air to dry the boat out. Probably more expensive by far then redoing your deck yourself though
The drilled holes with epoxy injection was taken from the aircraft industry.it is a technique used to rebond loose honeycomb core to the skin. Not for rotten core or wet core. Even in aviation there are some areas it is not adequate for injection bonding. My boat had running water in the core !
Thank you for the history lesson. I love to know these extra pieces of the puzzle. Yeh, it can get pretty wet in there and epoxy can bond soaking wet things back together. Do well with your boat.
Great video. Thanks for making it! I have a deck recore in my future and am gathering as much info as I can. It looks like you are doing the repair with the rig up, as I see the forestay in the background. Do you think it's best to do this job with the rig up or down, in the water or on the hard? Any danger that the rig tension will pull the hull out of shape without the deck in place to resist it while doing the repair?
These are some advanced questions, thou art no unstudied beginner. I am doing it rig up on this boat. The backstay is slacked and the structure for the shrouds is below decks. I always do it in a yard because, short of a complete boat cover, no vacuum on Earth can collect all of the fiberglass dust and I try to be a good marina neighbor. Make sure that the yard blocks he well and extra stands are nice. What brand, size, type of boat matters if you do large areas. Small area, and you can get away with everything, even an occasional in the marina repair. What are you re-coring and how big of an area? Cabin top too? Cockpit sole too? And then there is the cored hull. Same same but some twists now that you are working vertically or even inverted.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'll be recoring at least the bow, some of the cabin top, and cockpit seats on my 30 ft Dufour Arpege . I expect I'll eventually have to recore the whole deck eventually. It's a common problem with that model but they are otherwise solidly built. I've read a lot about it but haven't started repairing yet.
I have done it rig up and rig down and in the water as well as out in the yard. I never had any trouble but I do make sure that the boat is not twisted or deformed if I do it in the yard. Having a yard is nice when all of the fiberglass dust is trying to escape from the vacuum system and some always does.
You’re out of your mind. This guy has forgotten more about boats than you’ll ever know. I find virtually all of his comment very insightful. I hope he creates more videos - he could be a really polished presenter.
I have a C&C 38 with balsa core- this is a project we will be undertaking soon
Fellow pensacolian here great video. Maybe I'll see yall at sand island!
Really good presentation. Subscribed.
Amen! Haha... I cringe when I see the drill and fill tutorials. Cutting the deck off is a lot of work but the only REPAIR option. Everything else is just a temporary "improvement" and passing your problems to the next owner.
Excited to see part 2. Subscribed.
Good vid, looking forward to part 2
Great video. Waiting Part 2!
Thanks
Great tutorial. Looking forward to seeing the completion!
Got a free 22 foot catalina with bad front deck. Been unsure how to even start repairs. This is great! Former owner(s) even screwed a piece of metal flashing around the hatch (I assume trying to stop leaks???).
Your videos are really good, do you plan to do any more in the future? I hope so. Cheers
We are getting back to work and will post more. Thank you
@@sailboatcareandrepair Awesome, I look forward to seeing them.
Good video. I have the same issue mix of balsa and airex
Just did a Hunter 27TM 1982,,mast base rot between the hatches, came out excellent,,west systems and end grain balsa, which I dumpster dived from the model airplane factory,,,,also portside port lights (typical leaks) had to re cored at two windows,,,,90% done with stem to stern rebuild,,,Someday I'll compile the work.
Well done. Let us know if we can be of any help.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Just did the finishing touch up on the mast step/soft deck repair,,,,And I have a hard time seeing where the cuts were,,,only one small corner, where I ran out of top coat (thick WestSystems),,,The Kiwi Grip hid alot,,,,,,,splashing on Saturday,,,yippie 2 years of work,,,,,
Good on you, she will stand by you now through hell and high water
I wonder if it’s more easily done if you go from inside of the boat. Yes you are working in ceiling but you can hide the cuts very easily
Getting ready to recore the top of my pilot house and the aft cabin top on a Marine trader trawler. Taking notes
Can you please do a tutorial on how to fix a structural soft spot on a catamaran below waterline? Or perhaps I can get in touch with you for advice? Thanks!
same issue but our boat have starboard the issue ithit from insite and glue new 3d core in
I have a soft spot (maybe 2'x3') above the grab rail. I know the grab rail is the source of the leak. People have said that since the spot is above the grab rail it is not the source of the leak. Since it is balsa end grain core, isn't it possible for the water to "wick up" and do damage? Also, since I am pretty sure I caught this in the early stages, is it possible to drill only to give it an opportunity to dry out? or is what you are doing in this video the only way? BTW - I saw video two and that sucks that the boat got knocked down. Thanks.
if that entire foredeck was rotten, would you literally cut the foredeck off from one side to the other and then re-do a new foredeck ? I'm kinda wondering how you'd reattached the glass on the inside to the sides of the fore hull. thanks !
We always leave the inside or lower fiberglass skin intact. Then leave as much as you can of the outside edge of the outer fiberglass skin to grind and re-attach to.
The core never goes all the way out to the edge of the deck and rarely does it go past the outside edge of the nonskid.
Cut as much as you need, recore with balsa, foam or plywood and epoxy the upper deck back on. "Grind and tape? The edges and you are set.
Would you consider replacing the balsa with foam core?
It is a better way to go and easier, but a bit more expensive.
Nice Video! I have the same problem on my boat and am going to replace these parts. Is it better to replace the rotten parts from the outside of the deck or is it also possible to do the repair from inside of for example the saloon?
I have done both. There is a LOT of fiberglass dust involved. Where would you like it to be? Inside or outside. And there are a few tricks to hanging new core above your head. But both ways work. An each has advantages.
Remove the back ground music it does nothing for the video
I think the only way epoxy injection works (probably still partially), is when they put micro holes in your boat hull and inject it with sustained hot air to dry the boat out. Probably more expensive by far then redoing your deck yourself though
The drilled holes with epoxy injection was taken from the aircraft industry.it is a technique used to rebond loose honeycomb core to the skin. Not for rotten core or wet core. Even in aviation there are some areas it is not adequate for injection bonding. My boat had running water in the core !
Thank you for the history lesson. I love to know these extra pieces of the puzzle.
Yeh, it can get pretty wet in there and epoxy can bond soaking wet things back together.
Do well with your boat.
Great video. Thanks for making it! I have a deck recore in my future and am gathering as much info as I can.
It looks like you are doing the repair with the rig up, as I see the forestay in the background. Do you think it's best to do this job with the rig up or down, in the water or on the hard?
Any danger that the rig tension will pull the hull out of shape without the deck in place to resist it while doing the repair?
These are some advanced questions, thou art no unstudied beginner.
I am doing it rig up on this boat. The backstay is slacked and the structure for the shrouds is below decks.
I always do it in a yard because, short of a complete boat cover, no vacuum on Earth can collect all of the fiberglass dust and I try to be a good marina neighbor.
Make sure that the yard blocks he well and extra stands are nice.
What brand, size, type of boat matters if you do large areas. Small area, and you can get away with everything, even an occasional in the marina repair.
What are you re-coring and how big of an area? Cabin top too? Cockpit sole too?
And then there is the cored hull. Same same but some twists now that you are working vertically or even inverted.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'll be recoring at least the bow, some of the cabin top, and cockpit seats on my 30 ft Dufour Arpege .
I expect I'll eventually have to recore the whole deck eventually. It's a common problem with that model but they are otherwise solidly built.
I've read a lot about it but haven't started repairing yet.
I have done it rig up and rig down and in the water as well as out in the yard. I never had any trouble but I do make sure that the boat is not twisted or deformed if I do it in the yard. Having a yard is nice when all of the fiberglass dust is trying to escape from the vacuum system and some always does.
11:28 Oh yuck, good to get all that old stuff out.
Oh my gawd this was funny
one thing we know. Its wet. lol thank you
The music is annoying.
Too much talk blah blah blah !!
You’re out of your mind. This guy has forgotten more about boats than you’ll ever know. I find virtually all of his comment very insightful. I hope he creates more videos - he could be a really polished presenter.