Best video on YT and best advice I've gotten so far. I have a Sirocco and if i turn it lower than 2 1/3 (1-3) on thermostat, it seems to snuff out, ie no flame. But that is ok? I've been told keeping glowing embers with a slowly dancing flame or two is ideal. Thanks for your wisdom!
I would base my burning on the cat probe and go from there if high in the active range with stove on low yields no flame then keep going until it drops off.
@@tinmaninc2023 thanks and sorry for the confusion: if i set my thermostat to 2, the flame dies and temp decreases on the cat thermometer. Seems like only way i can keep it in the even middle active zone is with it set to 2.5 out of 3.
As long as the thermometer on top of the stove is in the active zone you are good. Anywhere in the active zone. There will often be no flame at all, and sometimes no visable glow. As long as the thermometer reads anywhere in the active zone you are good. The stove will put out heat for hours.
@Alan Sach thanks. The second issue is I live in Fairbanks, AK and when there's no flame, yes it'll put out heat for hours, but it's very little heat and not enough to warm the cabin. It's right on the max edge of square footage for the Sirocco 20, but still. It needs to be kept in the active Active zone, ha.
I heard that these stoves won't work in my house because the flue gases are not hot enough to create sufficient draft on cool nights. I'm running a Pacific energy super 27 good for 2000 square feet and it's simply too hot in my 2200 square foot home with the stove running on low. I'd love to be able to use a catalytic stove just be able to turn it down more.
Hi Mr. Tin man, how do you change the bypass gasket, and secondly how do I keep Mr thermostat in the active zone longer. I do burn seasoned wood that's been in an open shed (24x24) for close to two years. What am I doing wrong. I must say that my pipe is a longer flue (about 16 feet to the ceiling, coupled with attic space, and finally the piping above the ceiling) if that makes a difference. I also changed the door gasket and the combustor is less than 6 months. And also, why does the fan have a bearing on whether the thermostat stays in the active zone longer. Please and thank you. 😊
I don't feel the fan has anything to do with the stove being in the active zone. Is your Cat probe calibrated so when at room temp the red hand is at the beginning of the inactive zone? What is the make and model of stove and what size is your chimney? There are many things that could affect the burn time. If I were to guess then I'd say thermostat is engaging more then it needs to. Probably due to high ceilings and heat loss that comes with high vaulted ceilings.
Hi Mr Tin Man, I really didn't expect for you to answer, but thank you so much. About your questions, I don't really know if the thermostat is calibrated, but it does move in and out of the active zone. It doesn't go to the hottest or furthest part like it used to, unless the fan is off and I have the stove on high for more than 40 minutes. I usually turn it down to low between 20 and 25 minutes, as I used to do before these problems started cropping up. It now will return very close to the inactive zone within an hour of turning the machine on low, but I always have the combustor air control on the quarter or third line never at the lowest. I also noticed that I have a lot more ash than when I first got the machine 6 years ago. It used to take forever to accumulate a lot of ash, not anymore. Your other question about model type, it's a princess ultra with an ash pan. It's double walled as opposed to single wall piping. I don't know if that answers your chimney size question. The piping is 16 feet from machine to ceiling, and then piping in the attic which isn't straight to the roof of the house, it has a bit of a curvature to it, and then the remaining piping outside on the roof. I hate my local dealer and that's why I'm trying to make a go at this. Thx in advance for any suggestions you may have.
@@niiaryeeankrah9830 I'm sorry your not getting the satisfaction from your dealer. The extra ash build up is somewhat concerning for me. My first thought was the catalyst is going bad until the I read about the ash buildup. That makes me think the wood isn't as dry as you normally have or the species of wood has changed. First thing I would do is get a moisture meter and check the moisture content in the wood. If that's below 15% then I would take out the catalyst and inspect it. You will need a replacement gasket when you do so. If you have been diligent with what you put in your stove you should be fine but if you have been burning garbage, plastics or anything with chemicals it is possible the catalyst has been stripped of its properties and is not doing the job it used to. The Cat Probe is what I referred to above that needs to be calibrated and the red hand should be at the beginning of the active zone. Hope this helps. Don't forget to subscribe to our page as we post videos from time to time to help out customers.
Just purchased a brand new BK ashford 25 2020. And this video was educational on how it works. But i am not able to keep the catalytic combuster in the active zone. Only burns a few hours before dropping back into inactive. I get it all fired up and into active maybe not enough? Is it normal to drop back into inactive before all wood is consumed? I do not have a moisture meter but maybe it isnt dry enough? What am i doing wrong?
opening the pipe with a fire going on, with the gas passing throught the catalyst - and the bypassing it. Nothing to see and low temps, too - versus smoke if the catalyst is bypassed. Fantastic. The only thing - you better have good draft and / or a new insulated chimney. If the stove is using the energy so efficiently (most stays IN the room) the chimney and pipe will remain relatively cool. There could not be enough draft in an old chimney. There might be fans that help. User in old houses have talked about condensating water etc.
Should get a new 8" double walled chimney insert installed with the stove for safety reasons alone. The new double walled pipe is like 80-100$ CAD so probably 50-70$'s American per length, and will last you a lifetime safely.
I have no idea, its not normal to burn any stove on high for fear of overfiring. With Blaze King however the fear is lessened as it uses a lot let air so the fire doesn't run away nearly as quickly as secondary air stoves do.
You should never run your catalytic stove on high. I run a smaller Ashford 20.2 and I have the damper set at around 30-35% of the way open, this is more than enough to keep 1500 of house quite warm and 2,000 of house warm enough . I fill the stove before I go to sleep, and refill it in the morning, but it will keep on burning for about 12 hours without being refilled. My firebox is about half the size of a princess volumetrically so you could theoretically burn for 24 hours with a princess without refilling and I burn mainly softwood (spruce.) What I burn is probably your worst case scenario for burn times though so if you have hardwood you are good to go for burn times that are even longer than that.
Not if the wood is seasoned. Its also important that the height requirements from the manufacturer be followed as well. Inside chimneys are always better then chimneys that run up the outside of the home.
i wonder if you can just open the pipe like he did and just capture the hot air that otherwise would've escaped when it's super cold outside and the house has plenty of leaky draft. with a carbon monoxide alarm of course
ive been tosing it around between the princess and the king 40 ive been having a hard time finding them in northern ohio ? not sure where you live ? had alot of others but really like the blaze king model if anyone can or no where here in northern or close can buy one thanks
Nice modern day implantation of the Russian Siberian masonary stove. They also get in the high 80% and 24-30 hour burns. That's how the peasants survived in Siberia.
Thank you best video ever . We just bought a Blaze king
Best video on YT and best advice I've gotten so far. I have a Sirocco and if i turn it lower than 2 1/3 (1-3) on thermostat, it seems to snuff out, ie no flame. But that is ok? I've been told keeping glowing embers with a slowly dancing flame or two is ideal. Thanks for your wisdom!
I would base my burning on the cat probe and go from there if high in the active range with stove on low yields no flame then keep going until it drops off.
@@tinmaninc2023 thanks and sorry for the confusion: if i set my thermostat to 2, the flame dies and temp decreases on the cat thermometer. Seems like only way i can keep it in the even middle active zone is with it set to 2.5 out of 3.
As long as the thermometer on top of the stove is in the active zone you are good. Anywhere in the active zone. There will often be no flame at all, and sometimes no visable glow. As long as the thermometer reads anywhere in the active zone you are good. The stove will put out heat for hours.
@Alan Sach thanks. The second issue is I live in Fairbanks, AK and when there's no flame, yes it'll put out heat for hours, but it's very little heat and not enough to warm the cabin. It's right on the max edge of square footage for the Sirocco 20, but still. It needs to be kept in the active Active zone, ha.
Excellent Video!!! Thanks for taking the time to post it.
Hey! thanks for making the video! very informative. and it was great to be able to see inside the exhaust
The best display I've seen. Thanks
Nice socks! Love Gridlessness and blaze king.
You made that very easy to understand 👍 thank you 🙏
Fantastic demonstration !
Hello thank you. Could you please show the inside when it is cold so we can see how the catalytic is inserted and installed
I heard that these stoves won't work in my house because the flue gases are not hot enough to create sufficient draft on cool nights. I'm running a Pacific energy super 27 good for 2000 square feet and it's simply too hot in my 2200 square foot home with the stove running on low. I'd love to be able to use a catalytic stove just be able to turn it down more.
P.s. can you make video on how to change the bypass gasket. Thx.
I did, I think its our very first video.
Hi Mr. Tin man, how do you change the bypass gasket, and secondly how do I keep Mr thermostat in the active zone longer. I do burn seasoned wood that's been in an open shed (24x24) for close to two years. What am I doing wrong. I must say that my pipe is a longer flue (about 16 feet to the ceiling, coupled with attic space, and finally the piping above the ceiling) if that makes a difference. I also changed the door gasket and the combustor is less than 6 months. And also, why does the fan have a bearing on whether the thermostat stays in the active zone longer. Please and thank you. 😊
I don't feel the fan has anything to do with the stove being in the active zone. Is your Cat probe calibrated so when at room temp the red hand is at the beginning of the inactive zone? What is the make and model of stove and what size is your chimney? There are many things that could affect the burn time. If I were to guess then I'd say thermostat is engaging more then it needs to. Probably due to high ceilings and heat loss that comes with high vaulted ceilings.
Hi Mr Tin Man, I really didn't expect for you to answer, but thank you so much. About your questions, I don't really know if the thermostat is calibrated, but it does move in and out of the active zone. It doesn't go to the hottest or furthest part like it used to, unless the fan is off and I have the stove on high for more than 40 minutes. I usually turn it down to low between 20 and 25 minutes, as I used to do before these problems started cropping up. It now will return very close to the inactive zone within an hour of turning the machine on low, but I always have the combustor air control on the quarter or third line never at the lowest. I also noticed that I have a lot more ash than when I first got the machine 6 years ago. It used to take forever to accumulate a lot of ash, not anymore. Your other question about model type, it's a princess ultra with an ash pan. It's double walled as opposed to single wall piping. I don't know if that answers your chimney size question. The piping is 16 feet from machine to ceiling, and then piping in the attic which isn't straight to the roof of the house, it has a bit of a curvature to it, and then the remaining piping outside on the roof. I hate my local dealer and that's why I'm trying to make a go at this. Thx in advance for any suggestions you may have.
@@niiaryeeankrah9830 I'm sorry your not getting the satisfaction from your dealer. The extra ash build up is somewhat concerning for me. My first thought was the catalyst is going bad until the I read about the ash buildup. That makes me think the wood isn't as dry as you normally have or the species of wood has changed. First thing I would do is get a moisture meter and check the moisture content in the wood. If that's below 15% then I would take out the catalyst and inspect it. You will need a replacement gasket when you do so.
If you have been diligent with what you put in your stove you should be fine but if you have been burning garbage, plastics or anything with chemicals it is possible the catalyst has been stripped of its properties and is not doing the job it used to.
The Cat Probe is what I referred to above that needs to be calibrated and the red hand should be at the beginning of the active zone. Hope this helps. Don't forget to subscribe to our page as we post videos from time to time to help out customers.
Just purchased a brand new BK ashford 25 2020. And this video was educational on how it works. But i am not able to keep the catalytic combuster in the active zone. Only burns a few hours before dropping back into inactive. I get it all fired up and into active maybe not enough? Is it normal to drop back into inactive before all wood is consumed? I do not have a moisture meter but maybe it isnt dry enough? What am i doing wrong?
Make sure your bypass handle is shoved down all the way.... it makes a clunk sound when it does.
This stove requires DRY wood. I've use Blaze King for 13 years, best stove I've ever used but to be happy with it you must burn dry wood.
@@scottking7130 thanks for replying! I think i was just too busy trying to watch the temp gauge. All good going now! Love this stove!
Can't beat a blaze king!
Great Video!
opening the pipe with a fire going on, with the gas passing throught the catalyst - and the bypassing it. Nothing to see and low temps, too - versus smoke if the catalyst is bypassed. Fantastic. The only thing - you better have good draft and / or a new insulated chimney. If the stove is using the energy so efficiently (most stays IN the room) the chimney and pipe will remain relatively cool.
There could not be enough draft in an old chimney. There might be fans that help. User in old houses have talked about condensating water etc.
Should get a new 8" double walled chimney insert installed with the stove for safety reasons alone. The new double walled pipe is like 80-100$ CAD so probably 50-70$'s American per length, and will last you a lifetime safely.
What are some approximate burn times on high? I understand there would be variables. These seem like great stoves!
I have no idea, its not normal to burn any stove on high for fear of overfiring. With Blaze King however the fear is lessened as it uses a lot let air so the fire doesn't run away nearly as quickly as secondary air stoves do.
You should never run your catalytic stove on high. I run a smaller Ashford 20.2 and I have the damper set at around 30-35% of the way open, this is more than enough to keep 1500 of house quite warm and 2,000 of house warm enough . I fill the stove before I go to sleep, and refill it in the morning, but it will keep on burning for about 12 hours without being refilled. My firebox is about half the size of a princess volumetrically so you could theoretically burn for 24 hours with a princess without refilling and I burn mainly softwood (spruce.)
What I burn is probably your worst case scenario for burn times though so if you have hardwood you are good to go for burn times that are even longer than that.
what about the flames we love flames do we not get them anymore once that cat reaches the correct temp
With the flue temp being so low will cause build up in the flue?
Not if the wood is seasoned. Its also important that the height requirements from the manufacturer be followed as well. Inside chimneys are always better then chimneys that run up the outside of the home.
smolders for 30 hours but how much heat would it be able to heat a home when the outside temp is 0 degrees Fahrenheit
i wonder if you can just open the pipe like he did and just capture the hot air that otherwise would've escaped when it's super cold outside and the house has plenty of leaky draft. with a carbon monoxide alarm of course
Did you use a double wall pipe up to your support box or single wall?
That's just single wall.
ive been tosing it around between the princess and the king 40 ive been having a hard time finding them in northern ohio ? not sure where you live ? had alot of others but really like the blaze king model if anyone can or no where here in northern or close can buy one thanks
shoot me an email and I will put you in touch with the right people. info@tinmaninc.ca
@@tinmaninc2023 sent a email to your site you sent me thanks
Impressive
Nice modern day implantation of the Russian Siberian masonary stove. They also get in the high 80% and 24-30 hour burns. That's how the peasants survived in Siberia.