How I Repaired Peeling Clear Coat on my Bonnet
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Severe clear coat peeling off on the bonnet of my 1998 Peugeot 206. After watching a few RUclips videos, I decided to try to repair it myself. Any advice and comments are welcome. I'm pretty happy with the results, hoping to get better though!
Good to see someone giving it a try and sharing the results. I don't know why so many people comment like a spoilt child demanding a professional job from a guy who is clearly not trying to make an instructional video. Props to you bro.
thanks Dorian, yes, a big step from an amateur. And the question when I started was would I make it better or worse? Hoping to get better in time and maybe it will give others the courage to make a start as well.
davekennedy52 ml
Good Point Dorian.. we can all learn from what we see here.. and it only has to be good enough for who it is for. Certainly the car is conserved.
...and they don't post any videos themselves.
Definitely looks better than before
I like it. It looks a whole lot better than it did for little expense, I think you know its not top quality but for the money it sure beats what you had. Kudos to you, sir
Thanks Charles, yes, I'm a bit of a novice for sure, but she looked so sad that I had to do something. It's a big improvement!!:)
Thank you for making this vid, all I wanted to see, is how a clear coat repair turns out if you don't prime an paint.
So thanks again
Glad you found it useful H-Jumper, its not the best job in the world, you can still see some imperfections, but its 100% better than it was.
I watched all these videos, and all of these guys are polishing😂. Good to find someone who did it right
Thanks Xtra Saucie, I think the right way would have been to prime and paint, which I did on the back of the car(another video that you can watch) but at least the car looks so much better now and didn't cost a lot to do
@@davekennedy52 Of course, you could have primed , then painted. Making the clear coat last a bit longer; however, for a cheap and "quick" solution. You wash it, sand the old flakes off, rinse, spray the car, then blind. I plan on doing it with my car soon
Thanks for your advice, Xtra Saucie, and good luck with your car.
You worked hard and the car wasn't easy to be fixed like a new one but i think you did your best .
Greetings for you Mr Dave .
Thank you Abdalrahman, yes, the car was in very bad condition. When I did the back of the car, I used paint as well.
Dave, I thank you for your step by step instructions on exactly what to use and how to use to repair that paint peeling off the hood. I myself watched many videos and no one explained thoroughly as you did in this video.
Anyone wishing to put out a video that has a step by step process must explain in detail or demonstrate the produce to be used for pero and final solution.
This video allows one who knows nothing about the process by its simple and clear instructions to DIY with confidence.
A couple of questions for you Dave.
1. How soon must the body part be sprayed with that varnish after prep work?
2. I watched a video about tips when spray painting. And proceeded to say to wait 7 days for paint to cure before spraying on the clear coat. He was using cans of spray paint. Does this apply to all paints?
Thank you, my friend. And I’m looking forward to more of your videos.
Sincerely,
Mike
Thanks so much Mike, really appreciate your comments. As you probably gathered, I'm a novice painter but I did quite a lot of research before I started this first job. I have another video for you where I did the trunk, using paint as well.
After the old peeling varnish has been removed, wipe down the surface with solvent to get rid of dust, then you can spray clear coat immediately.
My biggest mistake was to lightly sand with 1500 grit and buff the varnish TOO SOON. I've been told to let the clear coat dry for 1-2 weeks before buffing. Same would apply if you used paint. Wait 3-4 days, wipe clean, then clear coat, wait 1-2 weeks, then clear coat, then sand with 1500 or even 2000 and then buff.
Hope this helps
For the short time it took you and the little cost i think it turned out quite well .After all its an old car so you would not want to spend mega bucks .
Thanks Rex, that was my feeling too, 2 cans I think
I did mine today I have a patch on the bonnet. I did sand it but couldn't get the edges of the patch flush with the bonnet.
You did a great job it looks a lot neater and the metal is protected. It is hard to get looking like a pro job.
Thanks Byron, I found that wet sanding was the most effective. A proper orbital sander would probably have worked better, but I don't have one and thanks, yes, it does look neater
Thanks for sharing been on the fence trying to do my own clear coat repair, I think it came out awesome!
Good job. If you were willing to do all that work you could have sanded a bit more primed it and shot a new coat of paint. I watched as you sprayed the clear coat. You have the touch. You probably could repaint your whole car for very little money. Also use the 2K clear coat it has UV protectant.
Thanks for the encouraging comment, within the next few weeks (when its a bit warmer) I'll be tackling the boot/trunk. I've gained a little more confidence after this job, so I'll be hopefully be painting some color. Thanks for the 2k tip, I've been wondering about that.
davekennedy52 if you decide to try and paint it. You can find much better spray nozzles for what ever paint or clear coat you use. Only a couple of dollars but you get a much finer spray and very little run if any.
Thanks Angus, like this? great idea I'm sure there are ones where you can adjust the size of the spray as well.
/www.amazon.fr/Macoplus-Pistolet-poignée-aérosols-universel/dp/B01DWG3BT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546791983&sr=8-1&keywords=bombe+aerosol+poignee
davekennedy52 believe it or not there is a web site for plasti dip. But on their website they do sell the nozzles for spray can paint. Pretty cheap I think about 2 american dollars. But the one you found should work fine. Also they do have the nozzles with a better spray trigger. It’s longer and allows your hand a better grip for a more comfortable application. Amazing things out their technology wise.
Good video. I suggest doing the base coat after sandpaper then clear coat with polish. Good tip on wet Sand to tame the dust.
thank you Jay, I also found that the sandpaper doesn't clog up with dust if you wet sand and yes, I think for the back of the car I will be doing base coat
Hello Dave...here is my advice first 400 grit , 600.grit wet and try to take all old clear paint if you cannot, try 400 dry but just clear then repeat 400 and 600 , 1500 wet. Remember do not relay on your eyes much but your touch..it has to be smooth. Your spray can doesn't have to shaken a lot...4 minutes top. Rule of thumb; you stop spraying after paint start "sweating"- Three times between ten minutes rest. Live it to cure at least 7 days and then less abrasive rubbing compound which is equal 3000 grit....then polish...this is the fastest way and not so expensive. I like your video which is honest way to show reality .
Thanks for your info Gematria, I don't think I let it cure for long enough and also I think I should have made the clear coat thicker, but I now know it for the next time
I'm glad you called it a bonnet and not a hood.. 🇦🇺 BTW this always seems to happen on dark green cars
Ha! Dave, a hood is a gangster, right! Interesting what you say about dark green cars. I've noticed a few in our town with the same problem. Makes me feel not alone
Thanks for the video , what a big improvement , gonna try it myself soon
Great video.
I did the same as you but I didn't use clear coat on top just polishing wax.
I found that even using 1200 grit wet and dry that it was too easy to go through to the colour paint.
That meant that I couldn't get rid of the old lacquer without damaging the colour paint.
So I decided to hold off on spraying clear coat and see how just wax would go.
It still looks a lot better than before.
Thank you Bobby, as long as it looks better than before. However in time you'll probably have to use a wax remover, then clear coat(lacquer). Your paint will oxidize and come off on your hand when you wipe it. clear coat protects the paint and gives it the shine. As long as the old lacquer is stable and smooth you can scuff it up with 800grit then lacquer over it. Watch my next video where I painted the trunk/boot
@@davekennedy52 - thanks Dave - I saw your next video.
It all depends on how thick the colour coat is.
Mine is too thin to be able to do anything except what I did.
I did use 1200 grit + water on the clear coat that had oxidised - gone white - but
I had to be careful not to go through to the primer.
I did go through in one tiny spot so that's when I realised I couldn't use 1200 grit
except super lightly.
I also used a dish washing plastic scrubber pad to clean up the powdered lacquer.
It will do for now as I'll probably buy a new car in 6 months.
I think these days, manufacturers are trying to skimp and save on paint and clear coat. Everything is super thin. My car is only 20 years old and look whats happening. I have 2 other 40 year old cars and the paint is still perfect
@@davekennedy52 - thanks - my paint is super thin.
They really had accountants working in their paint Dept. -
they made the colour coat as thin as humanly possible.
Just one normal pressure wipe with 1200 grit + water was enough
to go straight through to the primer.
I can't buy finer wet and dry paper than that.
I painted a motorcycle tank once from bare metal.
I did 3 coats of primer, then 3 coats of colour then another 3 coats of lacquer
each one of them allowed to dry and rubbed lightly with 1200 wet and dry paper + water.
It came up like a mirror - better than the original.
My neighbor painted their entire car with spray cans...and it looked very good !
Good to know, I'm going to try that this summer, both paint and clear coat
Not the best result but credit where its due you tried and its miles better than it was so well done mate
Thanks Shaine, it took a while to build up the courage to do it, but I'm glad I did because as you said, it looked a lot better than before
Just talked to the guy from Luka Fix It yesterday he said the cleaner be better to use on a rotary because it goes from side to side and that is the way you can apply the Lukat Fix cleaner glad I still got my rotary polisher still because I was trying to get rid of it before this weekend be good to do some detailing though. Not as hot as Texas where going but it will be warmer in the next month. Am still thinking about moving to Texas in October this year.
Texas seems quite popular these days, I read that half of California is moving there
Nice work! Really worked that spent clearcoat. The polisher, right on top of the clearcoat that was still attached. Polisher has a very fine grittiness to it to finish your sanding work. Yiu put grit back in your shiny clearcoat. Then a good carnuba wax, or ceramic coat. I've never had luck with canned clearcoat. A decent ceramic coat should last about a year. A year later just polish again and put on more ceramic coat. I think Carnuba based wax/sealer will be more gentle on that gorgeous paint color.
thanks for the info Renee, thinking back, I should have made my clear coat a bit thicker. I've been told a 2k clearcoat is better and more durable. I've been using Carnuba and love it, especially the smell of it:)
Great job Dave like everything you do my friend ! Love your videos you can fix anything..
Thanks a lot Ricki, too many idiots out there so I try to do stuff myself:)) Still got a lot too learn though, especially with spray painting
For the best results first sand it with 800 then 1500 then primer it, base coat it and clear coat it
Thanks Forest, learned a few things from comments received and you're right, the back of the car turned out great doing it like you suggest. Watch it on my channel if you can.
he say just a clear coat repair. so not to expect much more for less price. nice job. make a video again with repaint it.👌
Thank you Marco, just waiting for warmer weather and then I'm going to do the back of the car. This time with paint!
Dont paint in direct sunlight
huge difference, nice work
Thanks Alperen, pretty happy with the result:))
You just had to go over the sanding part with a single coat of original car paint and after 2 layer of clear coat and then machine polish it would look brand new. I have a polish extension thingy for a basic hand drill on battery and it works great, cheap aswell.
Thanks for the advice Dreamlink, I need more shine. Going to give it another shot when the weather gets better
If your happy with it Dave that's all that matters. Personnally I would have gone farther and sanded down all the clear coat smooth, primered the hood, painted the hood, and then clear coated it. I would have used 2k, clear coat for a lasting finish. Granted a lot more work and more expensive but in my opinon worth it.
Thanks Mitchell, at the time I was happy with it as I just wanted it to look better than it was. But now looking back I feel that I could have gone all the way. And sometime this year I'll be doing it again and yes, 2k will be on my shopping list
This is happening to my spoiler and I was going to order another one but now I'm just going to take it off and repaint it myself. Thank you! I will use paint adhesive and primer before I apply paint and clear coat though. Great work!
Thank you! This was my first attempt and was really just trying to make the car look a bit better. There is a later video of the trunk where I used paint as well.
Thanks for uploading. It looked 100 times better afterwards.
Thanks Steph, took a while to pluck up the courage to start, but yes, I agree, it was worth it:)
Thank you for this video. Really enjoyed listening to you through this, am about to try this on my own car so this has helped refine my thinking on how i will do it. Regards, and cute green machine :)
Thanks Deon, took me a while to pluck up the courage to do this, but I'm really happy that I did. Let me know how yours turns out. In a few weeks, when its warmer, I plan to do the back as well, but this time with paint. I think she's cute too!!
Hey Deon, you must have a screw lose if you think this is the correct way to clear coat a car. Huge LOL!
If you use 600 and then 800 and wetsand it out and you then spray it with the 2K Clear Coat it works very well. It will leave the paint looking very good almost professional like
Thanks for the adviceSBF Hawk, from what I've read, I think 2K clear would have been a far better option
Nice job, though it is expected to still see the defects. But if you sprayed a base coat and then the body colour and lastly the final coat. The final outcome would be a like a professional job.
Thanks Val, I've got the boot/trunk planned for when the weather is a bit better, and I'll be doing just like you suggest
Very brave of you. I would have waited 2 days between each clear coat and one month before any polishing after the final clear coat
Thanks Inzo, I was a little embarrassed driving her so had to try something. But not the shine I was expecting and hoping for, so I think you're right. I'll try your suggestion when I do the boot
I think for a "hit or miss" attempt Dave you did a pretty good job. I did notice you suffer my complaint - start slow, think; "This is taking Too long! " and Attack with enthusiasm (if not quite the right amount of caution!)
As for Inzo's point - it looked pretty warm out and with the type of "Clearcoat" being used, about 4 - 6 hrs would be well enough. Remember it's just Dave's little 20yr old 'runabout' and the respray was just to let folks know he'd wasn't "neglecting' Pug. But most makes and models of 20yrs ago are in the "Old Cars Home"! or in about the same condition! So the Reward outweighed the Effort, and yes more time could have been spent, but to what end ? Waiting a Month before Polishing ? Inzo mate you're looking for a level of perfection that could only be achieved in a Body Shop and spending More than the Value of the car.
Having done pretty much the same thing as Dave - except I Was in a Body Repair shop with all the professional gear required (including a £25grand Italian Spray Booth, which needed 2 wee Italian guys to come and Service!) I never saw a car that Needed with us longer than 4/5 days after it came out of the Booth, unless there was a problem!
And I'd say the same 4 days would be more than enough waiting time for Dave's Job, especially if the car's out in the Sun all day and is hosed off with Cold water in the evening - that's as hard as that kind of spray is going to ever get.
So Bravo to Dave,👏👏👏 for having 'les testicules' to have a go!👌👍👍☘POD☘
You are absolutely right
Ha! Yes CainAbel, you're spot on! After contemplating the job for 2 months I finally built up the courage to do it, thinking that I could do it in a day and a bit. Still more to do on the car, like the boot, but might use base coat and 2K clear coat for this. Getting braver as you can see, but patience has to be learnt first!
Ya maybe back in the 70s and 80s but the aerosol cans and new clear are chemically activated and usually dry in 4-6 hrs and flash time is usually about 10-15 min in between coats now days bud.
For anyone reading the comments, I have done this in the past. Watch this video ruclips.net/video/M_v8qPqPmr0/видео.html If you want it to look nice, you must paint with the matching color of your car before applying clearcoat.
Thanks EZ, RUclips held this back, thanks for the info
Respect to your efforts...! But i think the job is still undone. I have seen people turning scapy metal surface into a glitering brand new paint job. If you could use some buffing machine with rubbing and finishing compound after sanding and claying the surface; it would do miracles...!
Thanks Elegance, nothing worse than going to town and parking next to another shiny car! So, you're right, the job is far from over, hoping to improve and going to be tackling the boot/trunk quite shortly. Thanks for your tips:)
@@davekennedy52 I value your words. Welcome sir.
Since you did all the sanding and protection work, why didn't you decide to apply filler primer, paint and then clear coat? It seems like you did the hardest part and it would have looked like a new bonnet. Nice video though, nicely explained.
Edit: i see you have answered this question before. maybe do a vid for the trunk door? :)
Thanks Victor, after I do the trunk door, I might just go back and redo the bonnet/hood, just waiting for some warmer weather and will definitely make a video of the trunk.
Nice job. Quite an improvement. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Jeff, just needed a bit more shine though:)
You can improve your finish even further by carrying on, I think you stopped too soon. Use some body prep to remove the paste and then put on more coats, this time cross hatch it (go side to side as well as up and down) this way you will remove the lines. Also come back a bit on the can
Thanks for the advice M ell, I'm glad you noticed the lines. I think my coats were too thin. Going to redo it in summer and will definitely try the cross hatching and then maybe I'll get a better surface and shine.
@@davekennedy52 I never realised the age of the video so good to hear you still have it, it will be good to see a part 2 😁
Great job thanks for the video I decided to try to repair it myself. thanks for sharing God bless you
Thanks Samer, took me a while before I had the courage to do it, but I'm glad that I did
Everyone makes this looks so easy haha, my paint came off even with 1500 grit wet sanding trying to stick mostly on the clear. Even a couple touches on the paint would take mine off. The OEM paint on my car is so weak I had to repaint the entire section 🥴
Thanks for the info emmanuel, I think that's the problem-, manufacturers tried to cut corners to save on costs and used inferior products and now to get your older car repainted, costs more than the car is worth.
I believe he's giving it a go
Yes Jesse, first time for me so I was a bit nervous, don't know if you watched the next one when I applied paint as well, thanks for watching
Not criticizing the video. I get nervous when someone is filming me though.
I didn't take it as criticism and yes, I was giving it a go! I wasn't nervous for the camera, I was nervous because it was the first time I've done a job like this. Didn't want to make it worse but for my first time I think it turned out okay. The back of the car looks even better so I might redo the front. When its a bit warmer:)
Great effort for your first time but try holding spray can away from the work area as you was too close
Thanks for the tip Stephen, at the time I thought I needed a wider spray nozzle, seemed to have "dry" lines on the surface
@@davekennedy52 the lines you can see in the paint is a result of holding to close
Use lots of water when you first start rubbing with the scotchbright
Thanks for your advice Shaun, greatly appreciated
After i wet sanded with 800 i added a mist of the car color to cover the clear coat i sanded. Nothing heavy then cleared looked new again.No old clear coat lines showed through
Thanks for the tip Manuel, I think I should have followed your method. We live and learn!:)
Light wet sand will give you even and shinier finish
I'll give it a shot, thanks for the advice Felix
After watching a few videos, after sanding, it’s better to spray it with some base primer then regular paint of same color and last several layers of clear coat then you can start waxing!😎 I will do that and save a lot of money!😂🤣😝
Thanks Manny, don't know if you've seen the video of when I did the back of the car. It's pretty much as you suggest. Going to redo the hood during summer
Not yet sir, I’ll watch it next so I can do my car as well. Thanks for all the info and the motivation. Good luck with all your projects this summer.😎
This is truly horrible. The owner of the car had extremely low expectations and I believe he achieved the expected result.
Thanks Goru, my only hope and expectation was that it looked better than before. As it was my first time, I wanted a cheap and temporary fix. Thanks for your honest reply
After the clear coat you should have tried to wet sand it and then did your polishing my Friend and it would have came out with great shimmy results
Your advice came at the right time, because I am busy with the car again. This time with paint and I really do want that shine!! So check again my new video in about 2 weeks time. I was also told that the rubbing compound which I used on the clear coat is better than sanding.
With a bit more sanding and spraying with correct base coat would have resulted in a much better job with little more effort.
Thanks Gary, I guess its a learning curve, I did what you've suggested on the back of the car and its a huge improvement. Watch the video if you can. ruclips.net/video/n6Nw7Xv2rQ8/видео.html
CRAZY OUTSTANDING VIDEO : I"m a big fan
thanks Gerald, took me a while to pluck up the courage to do it, just waiting for warmer weather to do the back of the car
would have ended up even more nicer if you had a can or two of base coat sprayed as well and then clear coat. But for the age and investment it looks ok.
Thanks a lot Valentin, I agree with you, will definitely use base coat when I do the trunk/boot area.
@@davekennedy52 base coat would really make your work look that much better. I don't think you really need to sand the clear if you've prepared it and sprayed it with colour. Only for orange peel perhaps
@@hpt08 :) yes you're right of course, I'm going to do the back of the car with base coat quite soon
Needed a base coat before the clear coat ..
Yes Tahmoor, you're correct, this was my first time and I needed a quick fix. This summer I'll do a base coat
Hello, I think you would have gotten better results with coverage of shine coat by spraying first on left side then on right and finally from the front, I do a lot of " spray can repairs to cars" this has worked well for me, still looks nice, and as you say better then it was, and that's the whole idea, right Thomas Noteboom
Thanks for the advice Thomas, it was a very wide area to spray and I must admit that I would have liked a bit more shine, so I will remember your tip. I'm also going to use a 2k clear next time and try to get a wider spray nozzle.
good job sir... inspiration to DIY ers.... JUst need to know , how much time did you wait between each clear coat application .
Thank you Malkeyat, of course it really was a quick fix, but I'm glad you enjoyed it. Only 20 to 30 minutes between the coats. After the final coat wait at least 2 days before buffing and polishing
I'm only saying this because when you use the word varnish that's meant for furniture so I would really look up your product and see if it is for cars or furniture. Clear coat is what you should be specifically looking for when repairing the clear coat on your vehicle
Hey Tony, I'm sure that its confusing but Motip is definitely an auto product, they make auto paint as well and I bought it from a car place.. I live in France and here we call it "varnis". When I do the hood again this summer I'll be using 2K clear coat like you suggest. Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching
The problem is that the sun not only peeal the clear but also some paint, and also some came out with the sanding, repainting it again must have exceed the budget. In this way at least the peeling is stopped.
Thank you Alex, yes, some paint also came off on my hand and with the sanding. I just wanted the car to look better than it was and because it was my first job I didn't want to spend too much money. The clear coat I used came to only 20 Euro. Thanks for your comment and for watching
You're really brave to do this. I think if you're sanding (wet or dry) you should apply the base coat before the clear coat.
Thanks Nadun, just wish I could get more shine, but at least its better than it was before. When I started sanding and also rubbing with that green abrasive pad, I was only trying to remove the old dry white clear coat. Then I put on new clear coat.
But you're right, I will be doing it again and next time will apply some base coat first I'm sure I'll get a better result. Thanks for the advice
what base coat ? he only applied clear coat !
@@gmor3636 yeah, that's why I mentioned he should have applied a base coat as well, before reapplying the clear coat.
After clear coating with spray can u need to wait at least 7-9 days before wet sanding and polishing but u would be able to get the shine u wanted with a wet sand 1500grit after and then polishing with a buffer with compound
Appreciate the advice, I'm going to be doing it over again this summer, this time with paint. I really want a better shine
@@davekennedy52 no problem dave and i hope this next paint job comes out great for you 👍
Thanks Your honnestly video.
Glad you enjoyed it Laszlo, thanks for watching
Nice, thanks for trying. Good job.
Thanks Templar, of course there is plenty of room for improvement, but at least I've made a start. Next time with paint!
Looks better!!
Not the most perfect job in the world, but yes, I agree, it looks far better than it was
i think before the clear coat if you done a base coat that would have worked out to give a better look . not that im an expert , and it looked good enough to me
Thanks Grays, you're so right, this was my first time and I just wanted the car to look a little better. After more experience I re-did the job with a base coat. You can see the video on my channel
Very good,
Thank you Trent, glad you enjoyed it
very nice if you do it again you would be wise to use a 2 k clear it also comes in an aerosol the 2 k has an activator on the bottom of can that you bang a lil on a hard surface to breach and mix a bout 35 dollars U.S. also to cut down mottling alternate coats from left to right as you did then top to bottom enjoyed your vid
Thank you les, yes I will be doing it again and quite soon if I can. 2k clear is on my list, never tried it before so thanks for the info. The clear coat that I used has started to deteriorate again after 3 years.
@@davekennedy52 you will luv the 2 k it only has a 48 hour window after you puncture the bladder so line up a few things to protect if you dont need much lol
@@les1ed thanks les, looking forward to it and I'll keep the 48 hour window in mind although I'll probably do it in a day
learning together is one of the good things about youtube
Absolutely!!
How many spray can (ml) did you use
Chifung, I used a can and a half, but I should have used 2 and made the clear coat more thicker
I have to small patches of clear coat damage on truck roof. Can anyone tell me easiest way to fix?
Have a look at this brianu, maybe it'll help!
Please make a video when you use a primer too...
I definitely will do that, hopefully before the ned of summer, just trying to make some time, so keep watching!!
Thank you for the video. How many spray cans to paint the hood?
Thanks Wayne, as you can see its only clear coat for a quick fix, but in answer to your question it took just less than 2 cans, so very cheap to do and it looked better than before
Good job
Nice job not bad
Thanks Spawn10, I was pretty happy with the way it turned out, I just needed it to look better than before and it cost very little to do. In case you're interested I've just done the job again, this time with paint as well. After 4 years the clear started peeling again. Watch here ruclips.net/video/WQaXAA5FF6w/видео.html
I'm sorry, but there does not appear to be a straight panel on the side of this car!
she's a very curvy lady!
One question. WTF is a bonnet? You mean the head covering women used to wear in the 1800’s?
Hey Brax, bonnet/hood, boot/trunk? all very confusing for you poor Americans
This seems to happen a lot if the car is out in the sun all the time.
Like my car! I bought a car cover which disintegrated after 6 months in the sun
@@davekennedy52 haha yes,mine got ripped in the wind.
My son has terrible peel on his Magna but reluctant to fix as heard other people tried & stuff it up. Year 2021 the finish still good ?
I'm happy to say that it is still good after 4 years. This was my first try so I was also a complete beginner. As you can see in the video, I never used paint, only removed the peeling clear coat and then resprayed with new clear coat. So its not a perfect finish. The 2 queations that I asked myself was Can I make it worse than it is? and Does it now look better than it was before?
@@davekennedy52 Good to know, thx.
😑 OK so started so good but then missed a step get rid of the clear coat👍 sand it back dull to the base coat then respray at least 2 coats of base to blend back uniform wet n dry back base if needed, then apply 3 to 4 coats of clear then cut in polish =👍😁
Thanks Josh, thats really helpful; very thorough explanation
Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it Bill, and thank you!
Great job thanks for sharring God bless 💜🙏
Thanks for watching Ricki, hope you found it useful
Thank you so much bless you. I watch alot of your videos and learn how to do things on my 63' Chevy Nova expleshy on the clear coat and body work and I must say I love to hear your voice it's soothing 😊 and I love how you explain everything in detail your awesome, tks my friend..,
You definitely got your $25 bucks worth!
Thanks Don, I agree! Not wise for a beginner to invest too heavily until he knows what he's doing
@@davekennedy52 My car is not that bad but the hood had faded paint, I going to try wet sanding start in 800 paper then apply 2000 paper then polish and finally apply wax or sealant.
@@jo3lo13 Yes, wet sanding definitely worked better for me, good luck, hope it turns out well!
Nice job !
Thanks Matty, I needed a quick fix and it was cheap to do. Going to do it with paint this summer
@@davekennedy52 I plan on doing this to my fender , my paint is still good but my clear coat is chipping, thanks for the tutorial!
I think you rushed the last steps a bit, based on the other videos I have seen. I think overnight is recommended before the rubbing compound step, to make sure the cc has fully dried/hardened. The polishing step - probably should have waited a few more days. Again, the two-part K2 clear coat spray yields the best results. I have never heard of using clear coat varnish!
Thanks for the advice Atty and yes I'm totally guilty of rushing it. The rubbing compound should have waited at least 48 hours I think. We don't have a name for clear coat in France, we just call it varnish, like it says on the tin. But it is only 1K and I think I'll have far better results with 2K, its stronger and better UV resistance
Tacky
Yes I agree, not perfect but I think better than it was before. I was a little desperate at that stage
I hate to say but I'm not sure if you're using the right product. How do you know that this varnish is not for furniture and not meant for a vehicle. There's many RUclips videos that have clear coat with a hardener included in the can.
My roof has some white areas now but If I rub It paint doesn't come off onto my fingers. Is It still possible to do A simple polish a and wax?
Thanks for watching Jose, the white that you see is clear coat peeling off. Yours is still in the beginning stage, so keep an eye on it. Polish and wax might stop it getting worse, but won't make it disappear. My clear coat had peeled off completely thats why I got paint on my hand:)
@@davekennedy52 Thanks. I'm going to try A small area first next weekend. If that doesn't work, I'm going to Plasti Fip It A black metallic color for the mean time, since It's only the roof I'm sure It won't look too bad.
Well good for you Jose! I thought about doing it for months before I had enough courage to do it. I'm glad I did because it looks so much better than before. Good luck!
THAT'S A HARD 1,THE BEST THING TO DO IS 600 WET SAND THE WHITE AREAS, OUT TO THE GOOD AREAS, THEN 1000 WATER SAND THE HOLD ROOF, PRAY AND RECLEAR THE BAD AREAS 2COATS THEN ,THE HOLD ROOF 2COATS, GOOD LUCK, NOT THE RIGHT WAY BUT THE CHEAPEST
Looks awful - crow feet are seen even under the new coating - should've sanded the old failed coat completely. I can only imagine how much dust and dirt is under it. Can only be used as an El Cheapo method on rust buckets.
Thanks for your honesty and yes, I agree. I used a can and a half of clear coat and was a bit desperate for a quick fix. Professionals quoted me more than I paid for the car and I just wanted it to look better than it did. I'm nearly ready to do it again with colour this time
What is a 'bonnet'??
Haha Steve, This bonnet is not what you wear on your head!!:)
Enjoyed watching but .... That mark where you sanded too hard would really annoy me, I'd have to do it again.
Spoken like a true perfectionist Chris😃 I did actually do the whole bonnet/hood again but this time with paint. If you have time, have a look, its on my channel
You should have removed the bonnet from the car. It's a lot faster than all the masking off plus you are able to get to all 4 sides of the bonnet if you lay it on stands. You could also hang it up and spray it that way if you prefer.
Thanks Karl, I never imagined that masking off the car would be such a time consuming job. Thanks for the tip
Here's the most important advice. Never, ever do this type of work without a good mask. Your reflection didn't show any mask
Thanks NP, I've had plenty of very good advice on this video, but no one has ever mentioned a mask. So thank you, I didn't even think about it
@@davekennedy52 I'm an R.N. so protecting people's health is important. There are carcinogenic elements in those sprays, which are very bad for the lungs. The 2K are the worst
Don't use a cheap mask. They can be just as bad as no mask. Ask a professional for advice. Cheers!
@@n.p.2653 Thanks NP, I must say that I really like the smell of the paint and clear coat, but I'll take your advice. Will probably be painting the hood again in a few months time
You should have sanded with 600 grit on wet send
Yes Kamal, you're correct, thanks for the tip:) I'll do that when I do the back of the car
that's why primer exists
thanks vince, at the time I just needed a quick fix, have a look at my latest video, primed, painted and clear coat
@@davekennedy52no worries mate.. i painted my rims without applying primer first coz i wanna save some time. and It's failed that impressed me
@@vincecarter9146 Thanks Vince, glad you enjoyed it. Its a learning curve for me so thanks for your advice.
just Repaint it instead 😀 its just gonna turn back like it was before white time
Thanks Pierre, it was my first job and yes I should have painted it while I was busy. Afterwards I did the back of the car with paint (check the video) and it turned out fine.
I got a product online that gets rid of oxidation on clearcoat but my truck doesn't have it bad the product was Lukat Fix it would of been better on my older truck gave to my brother though had saw more oxidation look after had painted it last year but this Lukat Fix It I got the set that came with 3 items in it for 50 something two of the products were a cleaner for oxidation or bad oxidation on vehicle and the other was a sealant wax I still want to use it on my newer vehicle that is used a 2007 GMC Canyon SLE but have already claybar it already but the product I wanna use on it first is the cleaner just wanna see how much better it would look even though the paint job in good shape but with my dual action polisher and will bring it with me when go to Texas to visit my older brother next month too plus the da polisher on April 2nd will be going to see him.
Thank you Keysta, I watched the youtube video of the guy cleaning a car in the junkyard. Certainly came out very nice! Haven't heard about this product before so thanks for the info and I'm sure after you use the DA sander on your GMC, she will shine like a star!
@@davekennedy52 yes that video you saw sounds like the Lukat Fix It product you saw when the guy was doing cars outside but the product would work on my old truck that brother has now but today was looking for the Purple Power pressure washer RV and Boat product at Walmart wasn't there but still want to use this product saw the guy from Dallas Paint Correction on RUclips saying the product like it could help removing the wax off a car I took off the wax off my truck recently because wanted to add polish first but had to use a clay bar since don't have a product to get wax off but he also said Meguiars Wash Plus too. But this week when is warmer on Sunday wanna use the Malco Super Heavy Duty compound with my da polisher but at Walmart I did get the waterless wash product spray from Chemical Guys. Got a lot of stuff in the garage and I saw Purple Power but I don't know if it removes wax the regular kind in the purple bottle. If can't find the product in garage that removes wax just gonna go to another store to get the Purple Power RV and Boat pressure washer cleaner rather get it at somewhere closer though because not planning on buying nothing online now for a while going to Texas next month.
@@zanaga1901 Take the Lukat Fix and do your brothers car in Texas. He'll love you for it! Sounds like a great product. Never heard of Purple Power before, we don't get it here. Sounds like you're going to have a busy weekend and glad the weather's warming up for you. We're sick of cold weather here in France, but hopefully warming up soon.
@@davekennedy52 I don't do detail as a job but would want to do in future I do cleaning a school now but have had multiple jobs cleaning over the years but never had a auto detail job yet but want to. Had worked in over 20 jobs in my lifetime factories to but now at the point rather work for myself. Only had like one job worked over 10 years when worked at a newspaper company for over 10 but lately since 2013 been not staying at jobs that long the longest was about two years and thinking about leaving where am at now too but October be here two years. Have thoughts of moving to Texas where older brother lives than staying here in Michigan.
@@zanaga1901 My father gave me some good advice, he said life is short so follow your passion and be happy
Kamu bertalenta bro.
Keep connect.
terima kasih ini adalah pertama kalinya saya tapi terlihat lebih baik
Sorry dude, but do the job right next time, it looks like ass cause the prep work was not good. For a few more bucks you could have sanded properly, sprayed primer, base coat and then use the 2k clear. All of that comes in a can if you don’t have a spray gun and it would have looked a hell of a lot better. I guess as long as you’re happy, makes no difference to me.
thanks for the comment Murray, thats exactly why I made the video-to get advice and constructive criticism. Thats the only way to learn. Yes, in retrospect, the prep work was not adequate, but being the first time I did something like that, I was happy with the result cos it looked way better than before. So I used one can of clear, 10 Euro. This past week, I did the boot/trunk of the car with primer and base coat, so please check my channel again (on Sunday). I value yours and everyones opinion, hopefully I got it right this time
Why not just paint it,,,,then clear coat ?
At the time I needed the quickest fix and also because I was a complete novice. Now I've done the trunk as well with paint (watch the video if you want on my page) so I have a little more understanding. I had planned on painting the hood again but its going to have to wait for warmer weather. But you're right. I should have just painted it.
Dave. only since you asked for feedback: . I like this info the best ruclips.net/video/_owAbAw7FSEy/видео.htmlou can see that you have skipped some steps... in the above you can see that coats are applied in alternating directions ( across then up and down). Clear Coat is Urethane..and you have used Acrylic.. not at all sure about it's UV resistance.. or compatibility with your paint system.. Check his choice of wet sandpaper grits, and use of primer/and/or base coat... I think there is nothing wrong with the abrasive pad for starters... using basecoat gives you a uniform color underneath, and eliminates the mottled look and any vestiges of the clear coat failure line. I have yet to do one.. Yes, improved, but not up to the standard of the rest of your 206.
Thanks Capt Larry, don't think I've replied to you yet, RUclips tend to hold back some comments. Thanks for watching and for the info
Why you dont remove the bonnet instead of covering other body and windshield by plastics..
Good idea thanks Hendra, I didn't even think of it
$30 Sander from Wal Mart...life saver
after about an hour of sanding, I started thinking about that too:)
YOu need to use a respirator when applying clear coat!
Thank you, yes that was thoughtless of me. I don't think that stuff is too good for the lungs!!
Yeah ..Not very impressed with the end result..there were a lot visible lines from the clearcoat dust drying an you painting over it..from using a 1k instead of a 2k so .i prob would of kept that video at home..you really should of sanded it back ..an sprayed the basecoat again in 2k ..an then a 2k clear if it needs it
You're quite correct with what you're saying. It was only meant to be a quick fix to make it look better than before. And because it was my first time I also needed it to not cost a lot. i did the back of the car as well(please check that video). Will be doing the front again in a few weeks time, hope it will come out better
Good
Thanks Younis:)
Next time remove all the clear coat..sand down with 180 grit and work up the grit paper to 800..then apply your clear
Thanks for the advice Jeremy, don't know if you noticed that when I was spraying, I had a lot of "dry" lines. Maybe my clear coat was too light? I did the back of the car as well a few months later and it came out a lot better, check the video here: ruclips.net/video/n6Nw7Xv2rQ8/видео.html