Thanks Capt. Eddie I sharpened my set of nine Forstner bits by inserting a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock to hold the bit (use the lathe as a holding jig). This allows you to grasp the diamond sharpener with both hands making for more stable/accurate sharpening and it is easier to apply more pressure.
Thanks very much. That is really good. My Forstner bit needs a hone up, not a complete resurfacing. Just a touch up. Without your help I would have done it wrong and degraded my quite good bit. I sharpen my Japanese knives pretty well and know there is a LOT more to sharpening than grabbing a thin file and seeing what happens. Visitors always comment on my knives if they use them. A sharp edge remains cool and maintains it's tempering. A dull edge heats up and destroys the tempering.
This is a really good tip. I just tried it on a few bits that looked fairly good but didn't cut that well. They now work much better than they ever did. Thanks cap'n.
Hey Eddie, this vid is a great bit of work - thank you. It's informative (not just 'how', but 'why'), it's clear, comprehensive and natural AND very entertaining. Really enjoyed watching it. (I've got a can of 3-in-1 that I've had for many years - will use it more.) Thanks again, I WILL be sharpening my old 'wood-burning' bit {:o). Haven't had chance to view your Swat vid fully, but hope you're coming along fine now. I'll definitely be looking at more of your vids later.
Capneddie I am a relatively new turner and have gotten I lot of good information from your video. Keep up the good work. I particularly like the way you try to save us from overspending.
I agree with you in regards to wd 40. It seems to be to volatile to provide long term protection and instead it just evaporates away. I've even soaked tools in motor oil, left them sit for a while, and wiped them off... that works good. It gets the majority of the oil off but leaves a slight film on the tool.
G'day mate, great video but more so ... Great person, thanks for all your videos. Your much more than a bloke on you tube more like a mate helping out one to one .
Great tips! Thanks Eddie! I have a blaster that I have never used(the sand is too messy and aggressive. Never thought of soda! You got the gears turning again! And you claim that the soda blaster is dangerous:) By the way, those carbides are great!
Cap, ditch the oven cleaner and try Krud Kutter. Stuff works better than the commercial bit cleaner, is non-toxic and not acidic like oven cleaner. I buy the concentrate at Tractor Supply for $10 a gallon.
Try waterless hand sanitizer - soap & 70% alcohol. It cleans my sawblades and my hands. And try chucking the the bit in the lathe tailstock (or locked headstock) to hold it still while sharpening.
I've now watched five different videos on how to sharpen forstner bits, and each one of the videos tells something entirely different than the next one. Literally no consistent information from one person to the next.
Hey Cap! Good video! Appreciate your diagram & explanation of the Forstner surfaces, prior to the sharpening, very helpful. On my own I would have messed things up no doubt! Now I have a clue to the tenth power, ThanX! ;-)
Samrodian, he did that as an example for his viewers and to compare a new bit to a used sharpened bit. The choice you make is yours, but I would rather spend my money on a tool I don't have, than on a tool I already posses.
For rust removal, I recommend a 50/50 mixture of Water and Muriatic Acid (avaliable at any hardware store, and some wal-marts for concrete cleaning). Always pour Acid into the Water, SLOWLY as the mixture will heat up while it is mixing together. Just make a few ounces worth in a PLASTIC or GLASS cup, and drop the bit into it and wait ten seconds while it bubbles and fizzes. When you pull the bit out, it will be 100% spotless, no rust, no dirt, NOTHING left. Then rinse it off and hit it with a coating of WD-40 or your favorite oil to protect it from rusting. If you dont put the oil coating on it, it will rust within HOURS, because the acid eats the metals natural protective layer off. I have brought bits and tools back to life that had coatings of rust that made them look like they were found in the Titanic wreckage. Also, as a side note: Muriatic Acid has some nasty fumes if you inhale them its like breathing in fire. They sell a low-fume version next to the regular Muriatic Acid in many stores. This stuff works nearly as well, and doesn't burn the hair off your nostrils. Wear gloves, safety goggles, and BE SAFE!!!! If you can use proper safety equipment to work with wood and metal tools and not get hurt, you should be able to handle this if you have some common sense.
This is non-sense. If the perimeter knife edge needs to be sharpened, you sharpen it. Yes, if you screw it up it won't cut properly. Just like if you only sharpen one side of a double beveled knife, it won't work properly. Don't screw it up. If you need to sharpen the knife-edge, you sharpen all the cutting surfaces removing the same amount of material all the way around. Geometry stays unchanged. Its not rocket science.
I saw this video yers ago, and I rewatched it again. Great job again!!!
Thanks for this video. I have some forstner bits from my dad. They could use some sharpening and now I know how to do it correctly.
Thanks Capt. Eddie
I sharpened my set of nine Forstner bits by inserting a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock to hold the bit (use the lathe as a holding jig). This allows you to grasp the diamond sharpener with both hands making for more stable/accurate sharpening and it is easier to apply more pressure.
Thanks very much. That is really good. My Forstner bit needs a hone up, not a complete resurfacing. Just a touch up. Without your help I would have done it wrong and degraded my quite good bit. I sharpen my Japanese knives pretty well and know there is a LOT more to sharpening than grabbing a thin file and seeing what happens. Visitors always comment on my knives if they use them. A sharp edge remains cool and maintains it's tempering. A dull edge heats up and destroys the tempering.
This is a really good tip. I just tried it on a few bits that looked fairly good but didn't cut that well. They now work much better than they ever did. Thanks cap'n.
Glad to meet you Eddie. You are very informative, and I appreciate your input, and expertise. Thnks for sharing your knowledge.
love this guy. He reminds me of my grandpa. i miss him so
Love your insights and enthusiasm!
Hey Eddie, this vid is a great bit of work - thank you.
It's informative (not just 'how', but 'why'), it's clear, comprehensive and natural AND very entertaining. Really enjoyed watching it. (I've got a can of 3-in-1 that I've had for many years - will use it more.)
Thanks again, I WILL be sharpening my old 'wood-burning' bit {:o).
Haven't had chance to view your Swat vid fully, but hope you're coming along fine now.
I'll definitely be looking at more of your vids later.
Capneddie I am a relatively new turner and have gotten I lot of good information from your video. Keep up the good work. I particularly like the way you try to save us from overspending.
Sir, I like your style. You had me grinning through most of your excellent video and yeah 3-in-1 oil, I bought some from Amazon just last month.
Why does the duck quack when you move the camera? Ha Ha Good info, keep it up.
tank's cap'n Eddie, you help me be a better turner every day...
I agree with you in regards to wd 40. It seems to be to volatile to provide long term protection and instead it just evaporates away. I've even soaked tools in motor oil, left them sit for a while, and wiped them off... that works good. It gets the majority of the oil off but leaves a slight film on the tool.
G'day mate, great video but more so ... Great person, thanks for all your videos. Your much more than a bloke on you tube more like a mate helping out one to one .
Greetings o wise one. You are indeed a born comedian love your style and watching your vid I'm now going to subscribe. many thank for shareing.
thanks pal. got quite few of those $35 bits. going to work on them tomorrow. saved your vid for this.
I love that blaster. Going order one now !! Thanks.
thank you for the video, you have just saved me many bits, I'm glad I kept them, got em good and sharp now, and 3 n 1 is the best!
My Mother in law cares nothing for woodturning, but she loves watching you.
Great tips! Thanks Eddie! I have a blaster that I have never used(the sand is too messy and aggressive. Never thought of soda! You got the gears turning again! And you claim that the soda blaster is dangerous:) By the way, those carbides are great!
Helped me out on sharpening!
you are the Best Eddie!
Thanks Capt Eddie!
great tips tks always wondered how to sharpe this bit
Can you do the same video for a saw tooth Forstner Bit please
thanks for sharing :) learning new stuff every day is the way of life
Some great tips as always, Cappy!! Good job! Now where's that 3-in-One? I still have a can around somewhere too!
Cap, ditch the oven cleaner and try Krud Kutter. Stuff works better than the commercial bit cleaner, is non-toxic and not acidic like oven cleaner.
I buy the concentrate at Tractor Supply for $10 a gallon.
I tried and they do cut great thanx saved the bits
Great video. A lot of mis-information out there. You set them straight!
Great video, and I learned a few things thanks!
Would the soda blast be ok to clean up table saws, jointers , Etc? Assuming the motor is protected . Great videos!!
Enlightening - Thanks.
OMG I found grampa at last!!! Grampa went for a pack of smokes 25yr's ago.. and he ended up on You Tube!!!
id love to see something on carbide tip hole saw sharpening
Hey Eddie I enjoy you channel
Awesome, thanks Eddy!
Try waterless hand sanitizer - soap & 70% alcohol. It cleans my sawblades and my hands. And try chucking the the bit in the lathe tailstock (or locked headstock) to hold it still while sharpening.
Thanks for the excellent information.
Thanks Cap'n Eddie
What do you do with forstner bits that have teeth on the other cutter ring?
I've now watched five different videos on how to sharpen forstner bits, and each one of the videos tells something entirely different than the next one. Literally no consistent information from one person to the next.
Hey Cap! Good video! Appreciate your diagram & explanation of the Forstner surfaces, prior to the sharpening, very helpful. On my own I would have messed things up no doubt! Now I have a clue to the tenth power, ThanX! ;-)
Great video ...
Where is the spandex outfit, Hero? Putting another positive for you in the :Big Time Savings column.
I prefer to use 300 and 600 grit diamond files to sharpen my bits.
thanks for the vid!! this tip did the trick.
ok so these do not look anything like the ones I have... Mine have TEETH on em? So how do I sharpen those? ANY IDEAS?
Damn, I wish I'd seen this video before I ruined a perfectly good forstner bit...
I have a can of 3 in 1 oil on my top shelf...enough to last me for the rest of my life..it is an eight ounce can.
But you diy save $35 did you Eddie? You went out and bought one before you sharpened the old one !
Samrodian, he did that as an example for his viewers and to compare a new bit to a used sharpened bit. The choice you make is yours, but I would rather spend my money on a tool I don't have, than on a tool I already posses.
thanks cap'n
For rust removal, I recommend a 50/50 mixture of Water and Muriatic Acid (avaliable at any hardware store, and some wal-marts for concrete cleaning). Always pour Acid into the Water, SLOWLY as the mixture will heat up while it is mixing together. Just make a few ounces worth in a PLASTIC or GLASS cup, and drop the bit into it and wait ten seconds while it bubbles and fizzes. When you pull the bit out, it will be 100% spotless, no rust, no dirt, NOTHING left. Then rinse it off and hit it with a coating of WD-40 or your favorite oil to protect it from rusting. If you dont put the oil coating on it, it will rust within HOURS, because the acid eats the metals natural protective layer off. I have brought bits and tools back to life that had coatings of rust that made them look like they were found in the Titanic wreckage. Also, as a side note: Muriatic Acid has some nasty fumes if you inhale them its like breathing in fire. They sell a low-fume version next to the regular Muriatic Acid in many stores. This stuff works nearly as well, and doesn't burn the hair off your nostrils. Wear gloves, safety goggles, and BE SAFE!!!! If you can use proper safety equipment to work with wood and metal tools and not get hurt, you should be able to handle this if you have some common sense.
+Michael Swain Edit: EXCELLENT video btw! Very in-depth and informative, without being boring or monotone. You should keep up the awesome work!
I have benefited from your informative videos, a fair warning though I have sharp teeth, so watch your finger next time you shove it into my eyes.
Thanks Capn,
Can we see the soda blasting in action please
Greg
This is non-sense. If the perimeter knife edge needs to be sharpened, you sharpen it. Yes, if you screw it up it won't cut properly. Just like if you only sharpen one side of a double beveled knife, it won't work properly. Don't screw it up. If you need to sharpen the knife-edge, you sharpen all the cutting surfaces removing the same amount of material all the way around. Geometry stays unchanged. Its not rocket science.