This company did our waterproofing of a 2500 sq ft basement a year ago. The engineering and logic these guys put into this is epic. Its exactly as they show. They ripped out an old system like that was always flooding. Now.... zero water. Basement is just another room.
@@4cupsx01 I honestly rather not say. It was in the middle of Covid and right before the inflation hit. So I don’t want to shout out prices so future clients these guys have have the wrong idea. What I will say is it was well worth it. The house had water problems for 50 years and when they did their system they found another system under the slab that previous owners tried to install and it obviously failed. They installed clean outs where I can open and see the pipes and they are clean. We have had massive rain storms and zero water. The investment we made will actually add value to the house and allow us to confidently finish the basement and make sure that investment is also protected.
How do you handle a crawl space basement that was partially hand dug out to full depth? The footer for the house is only a few feet below grade while the basement floor is well below that. Water just seeps in through the dirt wall. My thought is to dig out all the remaining dirt, underpin the existing foundation, and pour a slab over gravel/vapor barrier with perimeter drainage like this video.
Excellent video. You really know your craft. I did our basement this the same way (not as well as you guys do I'm sure), but 10 years later and no water. Did 2 walls of the basement, both running into a sump to be pumped out. I used a similar waffle board on mine as well, which catches anything coming off the wall and feeds it to the stone and pipe below. I have to do my son's 91-year-old house next. the trench the previous owners dug into the cement years ago runs to a floor drain (that used to be the main gray water drain for the house), and that drain runs downhill to a trench along the main road 75' away. We figured out that's where all the mice were coming from! After we hook the floor drain pipes to it, we'll put some sort of grate at the end of the pipe down by the main road so he can keep the grate clean and keep rodents out. i don't think we'll need to dig a sump with the floor drain there, but we'll test it out for a while before reinstalling concrete over the drain. Thanks for the helpful video. I think I'll be able to do a better job on my son's house after watching a couple of your videos.
There is no way to install a one size fits all basement drainage system in most basements. You did a great job customizing and adequately installing a system for yourself. We did an installment in the basement of a large postal facility similar to the old floor drains in your son's basement. We created a short perpendicular trench from the perimeter trench around the walls to the floor drains near the center of the room. The water caught in the primary system discharged to those drains beneath the floor. No water on the floor. No sump pumps. The water runs to daylight. The place is dry as a bone.
sounds like it's doable then. did you do anything to prevent rodents from entering? right now I temporarily have a smaller coffee can with drain holes in it plugging up the terra cotta pipe to prevent them from getting in where it runs to daylight. it was a perfect fit. took us a while to figure out where they were getting in, but we know for sure now that was where they were coming from. I'll just add something to the pipe on the end where it daylights like a shower drain or something they can't chew through and won't rust. keep up the great work and the great videos. they are very helpful!
Another great video with detailed information on what was done incorrectly and why it's not correct as well as how to address issues correctly. I just wish your service area was in Northwest Arkansas. I will be able to use your information to help me vet out someone to do the work that I will need to be done. Thank you for the many videos showing many situations being addressed and the engineering behind the solutions.
This is absolutely brilliant! My 100 year old house has a 2,5 meter deep well that fills up in a day, from ground water, so I'll never have a dry air basement. Better drainage might be a solution.
Does this system work for block basements? I'm not sure where to start for my father's unfinished basement of the property he purchased years ago. They seem to have a metal gutter system on top of the concrete floor from the previous owner. Not sure how deep it goes, though. Some external gutters on the roof reduced a lot of the issues, but it definitely still needs help. Wondering where to start and exactly what to look out for if I had a professional take a look.
We invented ours (won an EPA award in 2008) and have it manufactured for us. You can find knock-offs if you search the Internet. I have no idea who sells it to the public.
Your videos are beyond helpful when it comes to explaining why water is getting into basements, how to address these issues, why you address them the way you do, why previous solutions failed, and how to get rid of the water after you collect it. I am am getting ready to do this in my basement and the one thing I cant find is a drain board/ flow channel that I like. Is there a specific one you recommend?
I've watched several of your videos - they're great, a real measure above the other videos on the same topic. I am out of your service area so I'm trying to piece together how maybe I can do this. I presume that's *perforated* corrugated pipe, yes? Do you tend to use 3" or 4" diameter? Do you cap the ends of the pipe? I think I heard you say the slope is 1" every 10'. Did I get that right? Thank you!!
Great video! Very informative. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Do the perforations in the 4" pipe face up or down when in the stone?
I've had several companies out to quote me on a system and one company particularly stuck out. It was the owner of the company that came out and very informative and knowledgeable. No high pressure sales tactics, no gimmicky patented technology. I just had one question for you. He mentioned their company uses pvc pipe instead of the black corrugated. He said sediment builds up in those as well as slows down water from draining due to the ridges. What's your take on that? Thank you.
I agree to disagree. I've installed many thousands of systems. Corrugated, perforated 4-in pipe purchased directly from the manufacturer is of higher quality and incredible when appropriately installed, but in the wrong hands can be a total disaster. It must be pitched to work efficiently and self-clean due to having ridges. The Army Corps of Engineers will vouch for it. PVC, on the other hand, cannot self-clean. No matter how it is installed, it requires clean-outs. Our systems do not require clean-outs or maintenance. We like to save homeowners money. Yet, there is still nothing wrong with using 3 to 4-inch PVC pipe.
I have a structural clay block foundation. Would you ever recommend running the drainage dimple board up to ground level or would the crystalline mortar coating be a better fit
Does your company do any exterior suggestions, upgrades or preparation to stop water from the outside? We're trying to minimize water near the foundation to help keep a very small basement dry. Your videos are very helpful and stopped me from applying a waterproof coating on the interior walls & floor, which can be damaging. We're upgrading gutters & downspouts, to keep water away better now.
Yes we do inspect the outside and make suggestions where needed. Always exhaust all outside options short of excavating around the foundation and installing drainage around the footer. It is always better in every way and more cost effective to do footing drains from the inside.
Does this system helps with basement with high hydrostatic pressure? We have water seeping through cove joints and even the cracks on the concrete floor in the basement during heavy rain. This only happen to one side of the basement, can this system be installed on one side of the wall?
It may be possible to resolve the problem with a partial installation, but our company will not guarantee a dry leak free basement unless the entire perimeter of the basement has drainage. Water has a nasty habit of finding new places to seep in. Sometimes a partial installation works and if it doesn't you can install more to cover the entire perimeter but it will cost more for a second trip out.
Does anyone know if there’s a store. Where to buy all of this materials, like the floor guard membrane,the slurry dry,and the superkrete he adds to the concrete, I can’t find this material in any Home Depot or lowes
Sorry.. forgot one other question I’d like to hear your knowledgeable opinion on - If house sits just a few feet away from 40’ drop ravine, could a drain-tile discharge flow-pipe be run underneath the footing and outside to empty into ravine thus eliminating the need for a sump-pump entirely? Thanks again
It is possible, but you need drainage that goes much deeper below the house and out to daylight. We don't offer this, but we have installed our system without pumps in 100-year-old structures with existing stone drainage in the center of the room. They work beautifully.
What about the barrier you put against the wall then put the vapor barrier right on top of it. Where does that water go from the wall? Because the concrete is not porous as you said.
The water will no longer saturate the bottom 24 inches of wall, instead it will squeeze through the cold joints and into the system for discharge. Those cold joints are well below the 4 inches of floor, vapor barrier, and super slurry waterproof cement. Water will never saturate or touch the floor.
exactly how deep was the trench in the video? I believe it was said that the rock was 7-10 in above the 4" pipe... was the trench below the bottom of the footer? footer depth varies dramatically, however, i my area 8-12 would be the max footer depth
Very nice work and video! Wish you worked in South America 😊. One question: an external drainage system like a corrugate perforated pipe installed near the foundation can avoid the use a internal system, by draining the water before it reaches the bottom of the basement?
If you are in an area prone to frequent power outages most definitely yes. Plus, you have the backup available if the primary pump stops working. Many homeowners that already have electric auto-start generators or solar power homes don't require the battery backup system.
Couple questions, please: Was there 2x4 bottom plate on that finished wall that was ripped-out at some point to accommodate pouring new concrete(?).. can finished wall with bottom plate be left fully intact when installing system? Also - most of what I’ve read suggests 1/8” drop in pitch per foot.. you install at 1” per 10’ - I’m assuming that small of a variation doesn’t make much difference while also allowing a little more wiggle-room for longer runs.. right? Thanks for all these really informative videos, bud👍
The bottom kick plate and 12" of studs are removed to accommodate the basement system and new concrete floor. Our pitch is pitch perfect for our needs. It allows water to gradually move to the sump pump station without overwhelming it. We vary the pitch depending on linear feet, but we never go below 1" per 10'.
Hello American Dry, do you have any sister company that serves central NJ? Or maybe can recommend one? I had 2 estimates so far and I am not 100% sure that I like what they offer
We don't use socks or fabric of any kind on our interior drain pipes. The quarter to half-inch stone we we pack the pipe in does the job perfectly. Fabric filters of any kind will eventually clog and reduce the effectiveness of the drain tile.
Great video, we need to fix our wet basement, however, we live in Canada. So my question is do you know of a Canadian company that is similar to you that you can recommend?
Yeh, especially since they show people to do exactly what he says is the worst thing ever.. nailing studs/strapping to foundation walls then use foam insulation and cover with drywall..
My friends are considering “dry locking” their block foundation due to moisture. I told them this is just keeping the moisture in the block and not allowing the block to breath. Maybe I’m wrong. Do you advise “dry locking” or painted a foundation wall? And why or why not?
I would not use Drylok in a humid basement with damp walls. They should allow the walls to breath and use a dehumidifier or better cross-circulation of air. They need to find the source of the dampness. It could be a number of things outside the house. Drylok is temporary and will peel over time. It will not decrease the relative humidity.
Drilock can cause damage to concrete by giving a false sense of repair. The water is now trapped within the concrete and it will cause premature damage to the concrete. The concrete will rot when exposed to constant moisture. In addition to that the reinforcement in the wall will rust out allowing for iron and iron bacteria to thrive.
Since you don't work in my area, do you sell your super slurry so we can put it on our cinder block wall -is it similar to or same as "FibraOne™ Strengthening System"
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Sorry i should of been more specific. I was referring to the 4" corrugated pipe in the trench. I have 4 spots that have 90 degree turns. I was asking if elbows should be used? What a ripoff they are $13 a pc. I just flexed it around the turns. There was plenty of room.
Question please. I live in an area where the foundation block wall is filled with cement concrete prior to seal plate and framing added. When drilling the weep holes in this scenario would you drill all the way through the blocks or just to the middle? Thanks
No weep holes are necessary. Water will follow the path of least resistance. No longer through the block cores rather between the wall, floor and footer cold joints.
I live in a state where you aren't servicing, I have hesitated to use dry lock paint as well. I've been in houses during estate sales that used drylock in their basements. They still smelled musty, the walls had discoloration areas, peeling and bubbling of the paint as well.
Loved the video, need to fix the end, with the pop up on the screen I can not access the like and subscribe. Instead do a patreon crawl with names. Then popups after that.
do you do work in "Western New York?" (Wyoming County, Gainesville NY) just purchased a home there, 1st heavy rain and the basement is flooding. Not sure if I should excavate outside around the foundation and waterproof/seal the block foundation walls and install new drainage, or if I should do as you show in this video. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated, or better yet, have you/your company come to the house and see what is best
Unfortunately, you are out of our range to get a waterproofing inspection or installation. You are going to have to find a local contractor who does French drain interior waterproofing. Exterior waterproofing is costly and doesn’t last long in most cases. We are going to put a video up soon explaining why. Best of luck.
With a newly purchased home with unknown/limited history, start with the basics. Make sure your gutters are clear, that gutters divert water 6-9' (More is better) away from the foundation and the landscape is graded/ sloped away from the house. That's 75% of the water right there. Ground water means turning your foundation into a waterproof boat or letting it in, controlling it and draining or pumping it out
Sad how many times we had to go out and redo basements due to waterproofers scamming their costumers that way. It’s sad. Seen some were pipes/ gutters weren’t connected and there’s cement or dirt between them. Seen subpump containers with no holes connecting the pipes. Just sad. Mostly happens to seniors.
Unfortunately, waterproofing inside or outside is unregulated, so contractors (construction, landscapers, Jimmy & George with a pick up truck, make it more difficult for homeowners to know who is right for the job. Educate yourself before hiring and only choose someone who makes sense with over a decade of experience. Also, a successful waterproofer is willing to walk away from a job and tell the homeowner how to do it cheaply.
I can't even imagine the cost to do all of this. Of course it seems like the "right" thing. Obviously you don't want water in the basement, but I don't know how people afford this type of work.
Financing is an option if money is tight. Keep in mind, a subfloor drainage system in your basement will increase the value of your home and lower your insurance. In other words, it is money well spent.
Our contractors all provide financing for this type of work. The real issue here is that people often go to the lowest bud without regard to what they are having done. It is often people on fixed incomes that are forced into making the repairs because they are facing flooded or very wet basements. I highly recommend finding Healthy Basement Certified contractors to make sure that you have the best professionals you can.
I agree. About 30% of our work is replacing these failed systems. That is why its important to get multiple inspections and quotes and go with the one that makes the most sense.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I'm addicted to your videos!!! It does look like you're having to go in and fix someone else's "attempt" to dry the basement a lot, lol. I better be careful though, I'm just a few videos shy of becoming an expert. Most people in Texas don't have basements though. So I need to build my own to put all this to good use.
And then there's "THIS OLD HOUSE" who have videos showing people how to do exactly to basement walls as you've shown here.. nail studs/strapping to foundation walls, then use foam insulation, and cover with drywall . 😐 Worst thing ever..
These guys seem like they know what they're doing but their business practices are terrible. If you are viewing these videos in consideration for using this company, save yourself the headache and look elsewhere.
It is one industry that should be regulated, and when it does, a lot of companies including big ones will go down for not following building code compliance.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
As an engineer, your approach makes me smile. It completely makes sense in every way. All details are considered!
This company did our waterproofing of a 2500 sq ft basement a year ago. The engineering and logic these guys put into this is epic. Its exactly as they show. They ripped out an old system like that was always flooding. Now.... zero water. Basement is just another room.
Everything he discusses just makes so much sense. I'd love to know what a job like that costs. My basement is approx 1000 sq ft.
Hey This company/Owner takes pride in their work and get it done right.
Thanks Alex, what it ran you for that 2500 sqft basement?
@@4cupsx01 I honestly rather not say. It was in the middle of Covid and right before the inflation hit. So I don’t want to shout out prices so future clients these guys have have the wrong idea. What I will say is it was well worth it. The house had water problems for 50 years and when they did their system they found another system under the slab that previous owners tried to install and it obviously failed.
They installed clean outs where I can open and see the pipes and they are clean. We have had massive rain storms and zero water.
The investment we made will actually add value to the house and allow us to confidently finish the basement and make sure that investment is also protected.
o@@joanies6778 4
Do it right, do it well, do it once. Appreciate your approach and transparency, if only more people were aware of your biz.
This guy really knows his stuff. I hope he comes to examine our house
amazing work! as a newbie, it's pretty inspirational to see someone really understand their craft
Very informative! I learned a lot about basement waterproofing. I admire they take pride in doing the job the right way.
I notice that the old guys in this business are the ones that do it right. Hopefully this knowledge gets passed on.
What old guy are you talking about? 😆
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems oh come on now
How do you handle a crawl space basement that was partially hand dug out to full depth? The footer for the house is only a few feet below grade while the basement floor is well below that. Water just seeps in through the dirt wall. My thought is to dig out all the remaining dirt, underpin the existing foundation, and pour a slab over gravel/vapor barrier with perimeter drainage like this video.
Excellent video. You really know your craft. I did our basement this the same way (not as well as you guys do I'm sure), but 10 years later and no water. Did 2 walls of the basement, both running into a sump to be pumped out. I used a similar waffle board on mine as well, which catches anything coming off the wall and feeds it to the stone and pipe below. I have to do my son's 91-year-old house next. the trench the previous owners dug into the cement years ago runs to a floor drain (that used to be the main gray water drain for the house), and that drain runs downhill to a trench along the main road 75' away. We figured out that's where all the mice were coming from! After we hook the floor drain pipes to it, we'll put some sort of grate at the end of the pipe down by the main road so he can keep the grate clean and keep rodents out. i don't think we'll need to dig a sump with the floor drain there, but we'll test it out for a while before reinstalling concrete over the drain. Thanks for the helpful video. I think I'll be able to do a better job on my son's house after watching a couple of your videos.
There is no way to install a one size fits all basement drainage system in most basements. You did a great job customizing and adequately installing a system for yourself. We did an installment in the basement of a large postal facility similar to the old floor drains in your son's basement. We created a short perpendicular trench from the perimeter trench around the walls to the floor drains near the center of the room. The water caught in the primary system discharged to those drains beneath the floor. No water on the floor. No sump pumps. The water runs to daylight. The place is dry as a bone.
sounds like it's doable then. did you do anything to prevent rodents from entering? right now I temporarily have a smaller coffee can with drain holes in it plugging up the terra cotta pipe to prevent them from getting in where it runs to daylight. it was a perfect fit. took us a while to figure out where they were getting in, but we know for sure now that was where they were coming from. I'll just add something to the pipe on the end where it daylights like a shower drain or something they can't chew through and won't rust. keep up the great work and the great videos. they are very helpful!
Great videos, appreciate the detail. I don't ever see you discussing the outside of the basement wall...why is that?
Watch some of the other videos. Lifespan and cost are two major factors.
You do a great and simple explanation of the problems and solutions. Common sense of how this works for those of us who are new to how this works,
Another great video with detailed information on what was done incorrectly and why it's not correct as well as how to address issues correctly.
I just wish your service area was in Northwest Arkansas. I will be able to use your information to help me vet out someone to do the work that I will need to be done. Thank you for the many videos showing many situations being addressed and the engineering behind the solutions.
Thank you. Glad you are getting good use out of our videos!
my basement has a crack wall, i watch looks of your video, which very helpful. thank you ADBS
Definitely have learned alot from your videos.
Thanks, I'm glad my videos have been helpful!
Your videos are very informative. It's very difficult to determine which method is the best and this video helped us understand.
This is absolutely brilliant!
My 100 year old house has a 2,5 meter deep well that fills up in a day, from ground water, so I'll never have a dry air basement. Better drainage might be a solution.
I wish you guys were able to come to Rhode Island 😩 I have binged watching your videos and I am learning quite a lot!
Very educational and the importance of doing the job right! To avoid future issues
Maybe one day!
Does this system work for block basements? I'm not sure where to start for my father's unfinished basement of the property he purchased years ago.
They seem to have a metal gutter system on top of the concrete floor from the previous owner. Not sure how deep it goes, though. Some external gutters on the roof reduced a lot of the issues, but it definitely still needs help.
Wondering where to start and exactly what to look out for if I had a professional take a look.
At 8:30 how did you guys make that neat dust collection system for the demo hammer?
We invented ours (won an EPA award in 2008) and have it manufactured for us. You can find knock-offs if you search the Internet. I have no idea who sells it to the public.
Your videos are beyond helpful when it comes to explaining why water is getting into basements, how to address these issues, why you address them the way you do, why previous solutions failed, and how to get rid of the water after you collect it. I am am getting ready to do this in my basement and the one thing I cant find is a drain board/ flow channel that I like. Is there a specific one you recommend?
Wish you guys did service in Oregon. Any recommendations?
Same! Any recommendations for guys like you in Portland, OR?
Love the way you work ! I would love to do labor for you !
I've watched several of your videos - they're great, a real measure above the other videos on the same topic. I am out of your service area so I'm trying to piece together how maybe I can do this.
I presume that's *perforated* corrugated pipe, yes?
Do you tend to use 3" or 4" diameter?
Do you cap the ends of the pipe?
I think I heard you say the slope is 1" every 10'. Did I get that right?
Thank you!!
Great video! Very informative. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Do the perforations in the 4" pipe face up or down when in the stone?
Perforations are located 360° around the pipe.
Do you guys do work in Pittsburgh? Or recommend anyone in the business out here for getting this system installed in my basement? Thanks
I've had several companies out to quote me on a system and one company particularly stuck out. It was the owner of the company that came out and very informative and knowledgeable. No high pressure sales tactics, no gimmicky patented technology. I just had one question for you. He mentioned their company uses pvc pipe instead of the black corrugated. He said sediment builds up in those as well as slows down water from draining due to the ridges. What's your take on that? Thank you.
I agree to disagree. I've installed many thousands of systems. Corrugated, perforated 4-in pipe purchased directly from the manufacturer is of higher quality and incredible when appropriately installed, but in the wrong hands can be a total disaster. It must be pitched to work efficiently and self-clean due to having ridges. The Army Corps of Engineers will vouch for it. PVC, on the other hand, cannot self-clean. No matter how it is installed, it requires clean-outs. Our systems do not require clean-outs or maintenance. We like to save homeowners money. Yet, there is still nothing wrong with using 3 to 4-inch PVC pipe.
What is the motor slurry stuff called? And is that waffle board the floor board in a roll type of stuff ?
Really nice video, I like your slow methodological style of explaining it
What about the footing? You are removing the dirt from the side and bottom of the footing doesn’t that weaken the footing?
Dirt is only removed from the side, not below the footing. Most inexperienced contractors dig too far and cause undermining.
I like your idea of leaving parts of the floor intact
I have a structural clay block foundation. Would you ever recommend running the drainage dimple board up to ground level or would the crystalline mortar coating be a better fit
Does your company do any exterior suggestions, upgrades or preparation to stop water from the outside? We're trying to minimize water near the foundation to help keep a very small basement dry. Your videos are very helpful and stopped me from applying a waterproof coating on the interior walls & floor, which can be damaging. We're upgrading gutters & downspouts, to keep water away better now.
Yes we do inspect the outside and make suggestions where needed. Always exhaust all outside options short of excavating around the foundation and installing drainage around the footer. It is always better in every way and more cost effective to do footing drains from the inside.
Does this system helps with basement with high hydrostatic pressure? We have water seeping through cove joints and even the cracks on the concrete floor in the basement during heavy rain. This only happen to one side of the basement, can this system be installed on one side of the wall?
It may be possible to resolve the problem with a partial installation, but our company will not guarantee a dry leak free basement unless the entire perimeter of the basement has drainage. Water has a nasty habit of finding new places to seep in. Sometimes a partial installation works and if it doesn't you can install more to cover the entire perimeter but it will cost more for a second trip out.
Hello in the case you did injection foam on your basement cylinder blocks how this wall drainage would work or not work thank you
so for a homeowner and contractor, if the wall is furred out do you just need to remove the sill plate? Assuming that there is no mold growing higher?
Do you have any companies in other states you recommend? Unfortunately you don't service Pittsburgh, PA
is the supercrete product a concrete bonding agent great videos
Does anyone know if there’s a store. Where to buy all of this materials, like the floor guard membrane,the slurry dry,and the superkrete he adds to the concrete, I can’t find this material in any Home Depot or lowes
I’m in VA is there a way to get the same install out here?
Refreshing details and information, thank you!
Can you recommend a long island contractor?
Sorry.. forgot one other question I’d like to hear your knowledgeable opinion on - If house sits just a few feet away from 40’ drop ravine, could a drain-tile discharge flow-pipe be run underneath the footing and outside to empty into ravine thus eliminating the need for a sump-pump entirely? Thanks again
It is possible, but you need drainage that goes much deeper below the house and out to daylight. We don't offer this, but we have installed our system without pumps in 100-year-old structures with existing stone drainage in the center of the room. They work beautifully.
What about the barrier you put against the wall then put the vapor barrier right on top of it. Where does that water go from the wall? Because the concrete is not porous as you said.
The water will no longer saturate the bottom 24 inches of wall, instead it will squeeze through the cold joints and into the system for discharge. Those cold joints are well below the 4 inches of floor, vapor barrier, and super slurry waterproof cement. Water will never saturate or touch the floor.
exactly how deep was the trench in the video? I believe it was said that the rock was 7-10 in above the 4" pipe... was the trench below the bottom of the footer? footer depth varies dramatically, however, i my area 8-12 would be the max footer depth
do you have an approximate linear foot max for a single sump pit system?
I live in Somerset County, New Jersey. Can you recommend a basement waterproofing company in my area???
Can we buy product from you ? We live in Utah and want to use products you use and we are impressed with your videos. Im a Lic, General Contractor
Im always interested in these videos. showing different ways and ideas to keep basements dry.
i live in michigan. :)
I like the way these guys think.
I definitely will take your aystem over a lot. I’m going to try it for my first time wish I can have you guys step by step help.
Fascinating
Very nice work and video! Wish you worked in South America 😊. One question: an external drainage system like a corrugate perforated pipe installed near the foundation can avoid the use a internal system, by draining the water before it reaches the bottom of the basement?
Another excellent job.
Thank you! Cheers!
can you tell me more information about your products? thank you
Do you recommend adding a battery backup system?
If you are in an area prone to frequent power outages most definitely yes. Plus, you have the backup available if the primary pump stops working. Many homeowners that already have electric auto-start generators or solar power homes don't require the battery backup system.
Couple questions, please: Was there 2x4 bottom plate on that finished wall that was ripped-out at some point to accommodate pouring new concrete(?).. can finished wall with bottom plate be left fully intact when installing system? Also - most of what I’ve read suggests 1/8” drop in pitch per foot.. you install at 1” per 10’ - I’m assuming that small of a variation doesn’t make much difference while also allowing a little more wiggle-room for longer runs.. right? Thanks for all these really informative videos, bud👍
The bottom kick plate and 12" of studs are removed to accommodate the basement system and new concrete floor. Our pitch is pitch perfect for our needs. It allows water to gradually move to the sump pump station without overwhelming it. We vary the pitch depending on linear feet, but we never go below 1" per 10'.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems what would you pitch a basement of 108 linear ft?
Here's to Working Smarter
✌️😁👍
You got that right!
Do you have a branch in Central PA?
Hello American Dry, do you have any sister company that serves central NJ? Or maybe can recommend one? I had 2 estimates so far and I am not 100% sure that I like what they offer
So what is the drain line? Perforated and can you use sock tile
We don't use socks or fabric of any kind on our interior drain pipes. The quarter to half-inch stone we we pack the pipe in does the job perfectly. Fabric filters of any kind will eventually clog and reduce the effectiveness of the drain tile.
Great video, we need to fix our wet basement, however, we live in Canada. So my question is do you know of a Canadian company that is similar to you that you can recommend?
Not that I know of
Where in Canada are you located.
@@CameronWWE123 NS
who did you end up using? And where in Canada are you. I need this work done asap. Wish the guy in this video could do it for me!!
i love your videos do you have an office in Maryland or do you come as far as Maryland i really like your work and do you replace basement floors
I don't
This guy should be on This Old House
Yeh, especially since they show people to do exactly what he says is the worst thing ever.. nailing studs/strapping to foundation walls then use foam insulation and cover with drywall..
What size rock do you guys use? 1/2" crushed and washed?
My friends are considering “dry locking” their block foundation due to moisture. I told them this is just keeping the moisture in the block and not allowing the block to breath. Maybe I’m wrong. Do you advise “dry locking” or painted a foundation wall? And why or why not?
I would not use Drylok in a humid basement with damp walls. They should allow the walls to breath and use a dehumidifier or better cross-circulation of air. They need to find the source of the dampness. It could be a number of things outside the house. Drylok is temporary and will peel over time. It will not decrease the relative humidity.
Drilock can cause damage to concrete by giving a false sense of repair. The water is now trapped within the concrete and it will cause premature damage to the concrete. The concrete will rot when exposed to constant moisture. In addition to that the reinforcement in the wall will rust out allowing for iron and iron bacteria to thrive.
Since you don't work in my area, do you sell your super slurry so we can put it on our cinder block wall -is it similar to or same as "FibraOne™ Strengthening System"
Is it important to use elbows at 90 degree turns or can it be flexed?
No flex piping. Only ridged 1.5-in schedule 40 pipes for discharge.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Sorry i should of been more specific. I was referring to the 4" corrugated pipe in the trench. I have 4 spots that have 90 degree turns. I was asking if elbows should be used? What a ripoff they are $13 a pc. I just flexed it around the turns. There was plenty of room.
So clear! Thank you.
Great content, enjoyable word pictures!
Thank you kindly!
Question please. I live in an area where the foundation block wall is filled with cement concrete prior to seal plate and framing added. When drilling the weep holes in this scenario would you drill all the way through the blocks or just to the middle? Thanks
No weep holes are necessary. Water will follow the path of least resistance. No longer through the block cores rather between the wall, floor and footer cold joints.
I live in a state where you aren't servicing, I have hesitated to use dry lock paint as well. I've been in houses during estate sales that used drylock in their basements. They still smelled musty, the walls had discoloration areas, peeling and bubbling of the paint as well.
What's the average cost to have something like this done
I wish you guys were in my area.
Loved the video, need to fix the end, with the pop up on the screen I can not access the like and subscribe. Instead do a patreon crawl with names. Then popups after that.
Does your company do video consultations for what you determine is needed?
No. Our social media channels are as far as we go with consultations. We are a very busy company.
Do you work in longisland Newyork
No.
Do you know anyone in Central NY (Syracuse) who does systems like you?
Do you do any work in New Jersey?
do you do work in "Western New York?" (Wyoming County, Gainesville NY) just purchased a home there, 1st heavy rain and the basement is flooding. Not sure if I should excavate outside around the foundation and waterproof/seal the block foundation walls and install new drainage, or if I should do as you show in this video. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated, or better yet, have you/your company come to the house and see what is best
Unfortunately, you are out of our range to get a waterproofing inspection or installation. You are going to have to find a local contractor who does French drain interior waterproofing.
Exterior waterproofing is costly and doesn’t last long in most cases. We are going to put a video up soon explaining why. Best of luck.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you very much for responding and for your advice as to which system would be best. I appreciate it very much
With a newly purchased home with unknown/limited history, start with the basics. Make sure your gutters are clear, that gutters divert water 6-9' (More is better) away from the foundation and the landscape is graded/ sloped away from the house. That's 75% of the water right there. Ground water means turning your foundation into a waterproof boat or letting it in, controlling it and draining or pumping it out
want to a home in Kentucky . Can I use you here? 2 want to buy house that needs remolding prembroke , Kentucky ( half basement
What’s also great is they also guarantee their jobs for the life of the house
Sad how many times we had to go out and redo basements due to waterproofers scamming their costumers that way. It’s sad. Seen some were pipes/ gutters weren’t connected and there’s cement or dirt between them. Seen subpump containers with no holes connecting the pipes. Just sad. Mostly happens to seniors.
Unfortunately, waterproofing inside or outside is unregulated, so contractors (construction, landscapers, Jimmy & George with a pick up truck, make it more difficult for homeowners to know who is right for the job. Educate yourself before hiring and only choose someone who makes sense with over a decade of experience. Also, a successful waterproofer is willing to walk away from a job and tell the homeowner how to do it cheaply.
Soooo….do you work in Michigan
Iv torn out so many of those scams its sick
I want this guy and his team to check out my basement 😅
Me too
At least I don't have this problem because the line in my basement is an overhead sewer
Amazing work, but this has to cost a fortune
I can't even imagine the cost to do all of this. Of course it seems like the "right" thing. Obviously you don't want water in the basement, but I don't know how people afford this type of work.
Financing is an option if money is tight. Keep in mind, a subfloor drainage system in your basement will increase the value of your home and lower your insurance. In other words, it is money well spent.
Our contractors all provide financing for this type of work. The real issue here is that people often go to the lowest bud without regard to what they are having done. It is often people on fixed incomes that are forced into making the repairs because they are facing flooded or very wet basements. I highly recommend finding Healthy Basement Certified contractors to make sure that you have the best professionals you can.
@@johnnierice6817 What's the cost of this project? I know every project is different, but it will help ground people in what to expect.
Got a similar system installed in my 500 sqft basement. Was 8500$ @@hu5tle- got mi
Seeing the lack of quality from the prior work is infuriating. I hate that.
I agree. About 30% of our work is replacing these failed systems. That is why its important to get multiple inspections and quotes and go with the one that makes the most sense.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems
I'm addicted to your videos!!! It does look like you're having to go in and fix someone else's "attempt" to dry the basement a lot, lol. I better be careful though, I'm just a few videos shy of becoming an expert. Most people in Texas don't have basements though. So I need to build my own to put all this to good use.
What an absolute nightmare to have to tear all that finishing work out because steps were skipped in the crucial phase of water proofing.
It is a nightmare. Some companies overpromise just to make a sale with an inferior product.
Shouldn't a basement be built to be waterproof from the outside?
Yes. New construction is always required to have waterproofing done on the outside. Unfortunately, it didn't last or poor workmanship.
They don’t build them like they used to … thank God!
The height of that basement is terrible.
And then there's "THIS OLD HOUSE" who have videos showing people how to do exactly to basement walls as you've shown here.. nail studs/strapping to foundation walls, then use foam insulation, and cover with drywall
. 😐
Worst thing ever..
These guys seem like they know what they're doing but their business practices are terrible. If you are viewing these videos in consideration for using this company, save yourself the headache and look elsewhere.
A multitude of bad actors out here in construction. Very sketchy stuff
It is one industry that should be regulated, and when it does, a lot of companies including big ones will go down for not following building code compliance.
I just got a quote from Spartan Ram Jack to install the same GARBAGE "water proofing" system that you guys rip out all the time.
They should know better.