There are a few options on both start up throttle, and operating RPM. As a heavy equipment owner operator with two full time mechanics servicing my escalators, tractors and dozers, I’ve got a couple of rules that in the long run pay off. First sted fast rule, no engine will be started at anything other than idle throttle. Talk to any seasoned owner or mechanic to back this up. Your start up wear is the worst, gets much worse as ambient temps go down. Once the engine has started, and after a couple of minutes then go up to operating RPM. It saves bearings, cam surfaces and cylinder walls. I’ve seen first hand the damage otherwise. As for operating RPM. It all depends on the task. There is no stead fast rule about always keeping your equipment at high RPMs. As for efficiency, all diesels have thermostats which after warm up keep the engine at a narrow safe temperature. I’ve seen at most a 15 degree difference between idle and wide open in my small diesels. Operating pressures and flow generally peak, with my three Kubotas, at 2300 RPM. From 2000 to 2300, it’s not a huge difference. The three Kubotas I run, B26, MS111 & M6 141, all have analog temp and pressure guages to get precise readings. High RPMs are best for heavy, hard operations. Of course bogging the engine is one of the worst things you can do. However, for most uses the RPMs can be held at 1800 to 2000 with excellent wear and tear prevention. I’ve measured fuel burn, as diesel prices doubled I had to address maximum efficiency. My average monthly diesel bill is $22,000. No matter the engine, from 25hp all the way up to my 370 0hp excavator, peak fuel efficiency is reached at 70% of gross RPM. I spent a lot of time and money to gather this data. So, as a company we generally run at 70%, going to 100% for the most heaviest of chores.
very interesting and much appreciate you sharing your expertise in this area. I know I learned a lot and others will as well. I will pin this comment so others can benefit from it. thanks again for your time and effort.
Great video Dave. Flow rate of the hydraulic pump is one of the things people don't seem to fully understand. I see so many people post about sloppy/loose hydraulic cylinders. Most of them don't admit that they were working the hydraulics at low RPM leading up to the issue or that they typically operate hydraulics at low RPM. They also forget that some of their hydraulic flow is sucked up by the power steering. What ends up happening is they get air in their hydraulic lines and need to crack a fitting or two to purge it quickly rather than running high RPM for a long period to let the hydraulic system self purge.
I have watched about a dozen of DaveK owsHow videos. This man is an absolute genius. I have taken his advice on the brush cutter and my cut quality and efficiency have improved noticeably. Dave, you need to make more videos. Do not stop. Keep educating.
thank you Charles for the kind and encouraging words. I plan to keep posting more videos and soon I hope to post some more powerful implement set up videos that will surely help a great many folks.
Good morning Dave! Great to see a new video out. Thanks for the info on RPM - really helpful to me and I am sure to others as well. And hey, not boring. I really appreciate that when you are explaining things , you always take time and go over things slowly - helps me to catch on to the lesson or point you are making. Thanks again - always learn a lot from your vids! Cheers!
Very good information. I have never really thought about how I run my tractor as far as RPM. I really like watching your videos because of the clear information that you put out. I have learned much from you and look forward to seeing more.
Great common sense advice Dave. I love the attention you give to cooling the hydraulics. I always remember to slow ride back to the barn or idle my tractor for a few minutes after mowing to cool the hydraulics down. My JD 2025R does call for 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for starting but I find it's mostly needed for winter operation otherwise it will stumble badly. Come summer, the idle to 1/4 setting is fine for starting. And if I use a block heater in the winter I can use 1/4 throttle for starting.
good to know Denise I knew I had heard that about certain tractor models. hard to keep them all in my head. getting older so my mental recall is slacking a bit these days. hope you are doing well and always great to hear from you on the channel.
glad to share it and get it out there. I have a few years experience with tractors and it helps that my son was once a certified Kubota repair technician. I get lots of inside scoop from the repair guys.
Great information. It's hard to find good information on the appropriate RPM for various tasks. I've just learned that I'm running way to low on my Kubota when operating the backhoe. Thanks for the video!
glad you found the video and I'm sure it will help. a little higher rpm when backhoe operation is being done will smooth out the duel function ability for sure among other improvements. we all learn as time moves on I hope to speed the learning curve up with my videos. thanks for the kind words it does mean a lot.
thanks Joe always good to see you. I was thinking of you the other day I have a snow plow project I really need to finish. lol been on the back burner for a while now.
I guess you will have time before next winter! Hopefully, we will do another snow plow for Dave (RCAFPolarexpress) to fit his Mahindra. It should be well before next fall. For sure we will make some videos!
This Vlog is very helpful, I will check my owners manual on my Kubota, I have a L4701 which has the DEF filter, Your advice is the best I’ve found , while I have looked through the manual for maintenance info, I guess being a big dummy, I did not know where to look for that info. But now I do, thxs
I usually crack the throttle on my 26 hp Kubota when starting it. After a little warm up I run it wide open for most uses. I think it runs cleaner and more efficiently like that. These little diesels have a 100 percent duty cycle. I really don’t think it hurts them to be worked hard. Good to see you making videos again. Have a good one.
Great video ,on the Kubota BX23S there is a helpful guide on the cluster that tells you where to run your rpm, I always enjoy you videos thanks for sharing !
Hey Dave , just want to thank you for the great informative videos. I watched your channel often when I was deciding which tractor to buy . I settled on an Kubota L3901and I love it . I'm learning as I go and your channel is always helping me out . Please keep up the great work. Thanks.
wow L3901 is a super nice choice in a tractor! I know a bunch of people who went that model and I hear nothing but good stuff from all of them. I know it will serve you well for years to come and also hold its value to the very end! glad you found your way to my channel and I deeply appreciate you spending your valuable time watching a few of my videos. peace love and respect Dave in Virginia!
I’m glad I found your channel Dave I just recently bought a Kioti DK tractor and your insight and experience is very helpful this video is right on the money I’ve always wondered about the RPMs and where I should run it and thank you for this video it’s very helpful
thanks my brother enjoyed watching your builds over there on your channel I'm sure a lot of my subscribers would love to sub your channel. keep those videos coming.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video Dave! I enjoyed it! I was getting hammered about rpm's in my videos and made a rpm clip trying to chill down the issue a bit. Hopefully your video will do the same. And it can create more debates afterwards too. Theres a heavy equipment mechanic on RUclips called western truck and tractor repair, guy by the name of Warren, he has talked about keeping the rpms up on the newer diesels so all the dpf stuff dont get clogged up (as quickly). It was in a video series he did where the tractor engine went bad at pretty low hours, and they were running it through a field at very low rpms most the time, which Warren thinks contributed to that engine biting the dust. Not to mention like you said how the hydraulic oil isnt being cooled very well. I've gotten hammered for mowing my yard at WOT and people are saying "turn them rpm's down! Interestingly on my tractor I couldn't find any mowing verbage for belly mowing, yet its recommended to run full rpms for running my front snowblower. I've mowed slower rpms but do like it better at wide open throttle. And that's the way dad did it years ago. Another interesting talk is what rpms to engage pto"s. On the gas John deeres if I recall right, they recommend close to wide open at engagement, but on diesels, the torque is there to engage much less. I dont ever just hop on my tractor and crank that diesel to wide open right away, it makes alot of extra noise for about 5 minutes, then starts to quiet down, then I kick up the R's to where I want em. Wish the wife wanted a garden. Then I could buy a tiller for my tractor. Maybe I need a new wife! Just kidding. I asked her what she wanted for her birthday. She said she wants a divorce. Told her I wasnt looking to spend THAT much!
that was a pretty funny ending I needed the laugh! yes you are 100% correct as is Warren these motors are built designed and spec out based on rated RPM's one thing that drove me to make this video is all the talk about HST tractors whine to much, to loud and so on. if people run the RPM where they need to be you cant hear the whine for two reasons one is most of the whine is from low RPM'S and starving the HST tranny for fluid flow and the other is higher RPM's and you cant hear the whine over that diesel engine humming along. lol thanks for dropping by anyone gives you any crap about RPM'S point them to this video. my son worked as a certified Kubota repair and trouble shooting tech for years. he swears by the fact that if you don't run the tractors where they need to be they wont last long. 540 is the low end of the RPM range on most tractors. with that said a gear drive tractor is a little more forgiving which is why most come with a throttle peddle as well as a throttle lever. even still I would run those at least 540 or near there. I would not putt around on it.
I was getting worried about you Dave. I was working on my tractor the other day and the I thought wow it has been a while since I heard from Dave. Keep up the good work.
thank you my friend. yes its been a long cold winter and a wet spring so not much decent weather for tractor videos. hoping to get a few out before weather turns bad again. thanks for stopping by my channel.
Nobody is better at this than Dave. And, Dave is so correct, there are a lot of good tractor channels out there. The really good ones often refer back to Dave, however. Thanks, Dave. RHenry, M.D.
thank you so much for the kind words. I try to make decent content. wish I could do more for the tractor community. be blessed peace love and respect Dave in Virginia
Good information Dave. I run my John Deere with the mower deck at about 2600 rpms. When I have the front end loader and box blade on in the winter I turn it up depending on the amount of snow. You take care.
Dave, I agree with you on the first part of the video about starting a tractor. As a mechanic I dont see the purpose of starting a cold engine regardless of the time of year at half throttle... It doesnt make sense to me, I wouldnt start my car and do that or my chainsaw or actually anything lol Great video with some great tips! I have a Kubota BX24 and I dont have an RPM gauge so I run it mid throttle if im just cranking around but heavy lifting and scooting around ill bump it up a bit! Have a good weekend! Thanks for sharing!
thanks for dropping by Jay always good to hear from you and I enjoy your channel. I'm sure many of the folks who watch and subscribe to my channel will find your channel very interesting.
Thanks Dave! I like the saying on the back of your shirt!! Great info, I see no reason at all to do a half throttle start on a cold engine. Lets give it a chance to warm up first!
Thanks Dave. I've made the mistake of running at 1800RPM when pushing over saplings. Definitely not enough grunt. Just got a rock bucket. Now I will run it at around 2200 to 2400 RPM (Kubota MX5100).
man I love that Mx5100 my neighbor has one and I borrowed that beast one time and man oh man I did NOT want to return it!! lol that thing can really push hard. I pushed over trees I could never push over with my little L2800.
@@daveknowshow My model came with rear hydraulic outlet (runs from same point as the raise/lower lever on the 3-point linkage), and industrial tyres giving a lower centre of gravity. I have a Canadian Splitfire log splitter on at the moment. Of note is that there is no way you can attach a back-hoe but I don't need one of those.
I have an older model John Deere 2040, they recommend to operate the tractor at 1500 rpms or more under normal operation. They recommend to limit the engine operation below 1500 rpms to 5 mins.
Steve Mc I’m glad someone else mentioned this. I bushhogged with my dads old ford 3600 the other day and 1600 on it is screaming pretty good. Older stuff is a little different I suppose. At the same time though I can’t help but think of how reliable and how many old fords and John Deere 4020s there are out there still in operation today, great tractors!
yes this is why its a good idea to check the rated RPM of your specific tractor. the older JD tractors and many other brands have a different RPM rating and recommendation than my Kubota. heck even the new Kubota l2501 has a different rpm rating of 2200 rpms I think 540 is like 1700rpms or so not sure.
@@daveknowshow something else to keep in mind also, for the gentlemen that commented above you is. And, I'm sure you already know. Those older tractors are great but having the hydro transmission makes all the differance in the world. I wrote this reply here because I think it will go to both of them.
@@billfischer6464 yes I agree this HST is the ticket! I was reluctant to get one as I was a die hard gear guy and wanted nothing but a gear drive. man I'm so glad I got this HST because it makes every aspect of tractor work a breeze! especially with cruise control!
I just got a HST 3902 …had a 2501 with a manual trans! Drove it like a truck with the throttle pedal on the floor board ! The 3902 HST I run the throttle to about 1800 rpms with normal light use! If I’m dragging something or working the bucket hard I’ll run it up to 2500 or so!
1800 is about the lowest i would run it. i sometimes do the same late nights when i'm trying to keep noise levels down for neighbors as i move firewood.
Nice vid Dave. Shows exactly why I do not own an HST. LoL. FYI. Rpm does not equate to better hydro cooling on a linear scale. Faster rpm = higher flow rate = less time in oil cooler = not much difference. The manufacturers have the oil cooling at various rpm’s built into the system design. Now for HST, yes you need higher rpm to get torque on the ground. Later Dave.
yes with this HST you need to higher RPM to keep the flow and pressure up since the pump directly responds to the RPM and is set up to be ran at the rated RPM of the engine. you can starve an HST tranny with low flow rates which will in turn over heat the fluid. a faster flow rate and better pressure work much more efficiently . the manufacturers design the hydraulic cooling system between two major number. the rated RPM of the tractor and the 540 mark, the cooling system works its best between these two points. thus resulting in a cooler hydraulic oil as well as engine temperature. thanks for dropping by.
Hi Dave! It’s great to see another video from you! Thanks for providing excellent information on the proper tractor RPM for best performance and maximizing the life of the tractor. I typically run at about 1700 RM in the medium speed range (HST) when I’m just moving around my property and crank it up to 2500 RPM or higher for loader work or backhoe. Now I’m going to check my manual to see what my engine’s rated RPM is and take that into consideration. Looking forward to your next video!
for sure its best to check that owners manual and see what the rated RPM is then adjust from there. typically your pretty safe if you hang right around the 540 mark on any tractor. thanks for dropping by and I hope to get a few more videos out over the summer.
Hey Dave. Good to see you back out and riding. I revisit my manual for a good refresher. It's always good to recheck and verify. Yep, I can imagine this being a topic of discussion in a tractor forum. Always learn something new from your videos. Yep Dave it's been hotter than the dickens all week. Later and give ole Daisy a mild tug on her neckerchief for me (ha).
man I figured you were getting this heat wave to. the humidity has been off the chain the last two days considering its not even june yet. sheesh to hot for Daisy to even go outside. she in here sleep in the A/C but she will be up chasing coyote off all night. now we have a bear cub roaming around her. hope she don't try tangling with that beast. lol
@@daveknowshow Yep, it's dang hot down here Dave. Thinking of trading in my 2005 open platform Massey 1533 for a cab unit with AC. No more excessive heat, bugs, skeeters, yellow flies, ground bees, or even elements to deal with. I'm making some garage modifications to be able to get it into the tractor shed since it's just a tad taller (according to the specs). I've talked about it for over 9 years so I'm hoping I can do it this year. I still have 14 more months of mortgage so I gotta do some $hifting of fund$. Yep, ole Daisy is a smart dog. Stay in during the day and go out when it's cooler. Smart dog. Okay, let me get out in my hot garage and do some clearing up of stuff.
Hey Dave, nice to see you are doing well!! That is some great info and to the point. Not allowing the Hydro fluid to cool will make your HST run sluggish and weak. Not including the damage it will cause to it and the pump! On these sub compacts the RPM's are a little different but you are right that the manual should give us the RPMs needed to run them. Nice to see you again and I hope you have a great weekend!! Enjoyed the video!!
thank you very much. I hope it will help some folks. after answering this question on so many forums and in emails I finally figured its a good subject for a video.
Good video Dave I think every tractor owner should read there manual LOL to know there machine more. Video not boring at all really good information my friend.
Hey Dave. The only reason to run at rated pto rpm is for SPEED. As rpm goes up, friction goes up and so does heat. I have equipment that is 50 years old and I don't run anywhere near the pto rpm. Much easier on everything to run at a lower rpm. The rated rpm is for the ability to get the job done in the shortest amount of time, which is not easy on the equipment.
it all depends on what your doing and what tractor your using. if its a gear drive tractor and all your doing is pulling a hay wagon then yes lower RPM'S wont hurt a thing. not so with an HST tranny as it needs the proper flow rate and pressure from the pump. the pump works directly in relation to the engine RPM. it is very important to not starve an HST tranny of hydraulic flow and pressure. this comes straight from Kubota corporation technical training school as my Son is a graduate and worked for many years as a certified Kubota technician. his job was trouble shooting tractors. engines hydraulic systems and all aspects of tractors. if you install a flow and pressure gauge you can plainly see a variation between flow and pressure at low engine RPM verses higher RPM. even with gear drive tractors flow and pressure are very important when using a front end loader, log splitter or any other various implement that require proper flow and pressure of hydraulic fluid. additionally all of these new tractors with DPF emissions systems require a higher RPM to maintain a clean burning system. so as I stated in the video there are exceptions to the rule. your 50 year old tractor that is gas or even diesel may well run just fine at lower RPM'S so long as you do not need the required hydraulic flow and pressure rates to run specific implements or transmissions. many older tractors have a broad RPM window between 800 and 1500 RPM. this is not the case typically with these newer tractors. thanks for the insightful comment. always welcome discussions to toss ideas and theories around.
Running rpm too low can also cause wet stacking. That's when the engine isn't hot enough to expand the metals to make good seals. And to burn all the fuel. So a lot of fuel goes out the exhaust. That's what causes your old tractors to stink and spit that black sludge. It also causes the diesel fuel to wash the oil off the cylinders and cause damage inside. It will lead to fuel in your oil/crank case. Running too low is how you get a huge maintenance bill.
Wow, I didn't even think about that, yet I NEVER move my zero turn unless full rpm. In fact, I've seen videos recommending just 1500 rpm for your loader work an such, but after your video, and most importantly the rest respect i have for your knowledge, I'll be at the minimum 540 rpm from now on. (L2501 hst is 2100). Have a merry Christmas my friend, and keep up the great work so many of us depend on! Thanks
I bet you love that l2501. that machine is one beast of a tractor. my old neighbor bought one and I got to use it. man the hydraulics on that machine is way smoother than mine. appreciate the kind words and hope you have a truly blessed and magical Christmas!
I think it is the best bang for my buck. Loader, and that size tractor for under $20k. I've got a zero turn so need for that mid pto, it just continues to amaze me. I bought a huge rb3772 landpride rear blade, meant for a much larger tractor, I re-crowned and ditched a mile long driveways for a friend, he couldn't believe how it dug and turned up ground. I wanted the weight so it wouldn't hop over hard ground, having no down force, then it i don't want it to dig, I turn it around and am amazed how it moves dirty facing the blade backwards. Plus it offsets 26". I believe the L2501 engine is from the older L3400. With 100 cubic engine, it runs the 540 at 2100rpm, pretty low grunt. I wanted a tractor more than a big lawnmower. I'm gone 6 days at a time for work, so living in Wisconsin, I can come home to quite a mess and hard packed snow, the L2501 doesn't care. The lift height with the loader arms going out in front a ways also makes it nice to pick heavy stuff out sideways from a pickup bed using my bolt on bucket hooks. I lifted my 68" snowblower that way when I bought it. And my video shows how the L2501 blows heavy wet snow with that huge 68" blower. The torque is just amazing. And best of all no emissions crap. I'm so happy I got it. When I left to buy a tractor I was on my way to buy a john deere 3025e. I stopped 1st at the kubota dealer and in a smart ass tone I said, "I'm on my way to buy a 3025e, good luck talking me out of it, but I'll give you a chance". When I saw how heavy duty this was built, I never left. The front axle alone is 3xs as thick as the green one was.
@@ironheadbiker yes I always said if you need a tractor larger than a L2501 then dont waste your money on anything less than a L4701 all the models from L3901 down to the L2501 are pretty much the same except for a little HP that gets eaten up by emissions. lift capacity on all those models are basically the same. when my neighbor started looking at tractors to buy after seeing mine I told him get the L2501 you cant go wrong. he did just that. very happy with the machine. I like that snow blower. if we got more snow here in VA I would look into getting me one. I looked at the same rear blade you have and also the woods version and a bunch others. I ended up getting the opportunity to test out the Dirt Dog Manufacturing version of that model blade and man that blade has been a beast so far. love having the offset function. I will use it a year or so and then do a real world review of what I like and what I dont like. I'm a hard sell when it comes to products I wont ever simply say I like it if I have any one thing about it that I dont like. I still got more testing to do but so far its holding up just fine.
@@daveknowshow Check out the Kioti CK2610 HST. The loader on that 25 hp tractor is rated at 1800#...and the tractor weighs 2701# without the loader/bucket, and 3600# with the loader/bucket. It also lifts higher than any other 25 hp tractor on the market. Very strong machine...for several thousands less than a comparable Kubota or JD.
I totally agree with you Dave. My two younger brothers have always disagreed with me. If I'm using my rear mount mower i like to have my engine speed about 2500 rpms. They say its way to fast. I know I get way better performance at this speed. My ground speed is about the same as theirs. Even if i gear down lower i always leave my PTO speed the same.
Dave, this is very helpful. Have a new B2601. The owner's manual seems VERY conservative on break in and overall operation. I wonder if this conflicts with your or others' common practices? Maybe not because 540 rpm is not wide open, right? Anyway, here's from the manual: 1ST 50 HOURS BREAK-IN FOR NEW TRACTOR Don’t operate at full speed [big emphasis]* Don’t operate faster than necessary* “Applies to all tractors but especially important for new tractor.”
STARTING: Set throttle lever about halfway [looks a little lower in image] WARM UP: For five minutes, allow engine to run without any load. Below 32F to 14F, warm up for up to 10 minutes. @ 14F to -4F, warm for 10-15 mins. Below -4, warm for over 15 mins.
P.S.-I looked at the manual, and my tractor is rated at 2,800 rpms too. For 540 pto for a rear mower, etc, it says the rpm should read 2,768. Of course that looks more like the mark is at 2,800 on the tach. Would appreciate your advice as I break in this tractor: For loader work I have been using low range and hitting a pile of dirt or mulch at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm. Then I carry the material away at 2,000-2,300 rpm. Sounds like I could easily bump that up to 2,800 rpm if desired and it would be well below the wide-open Kubota warns about. While I may not be helping the tractor babying it, I have probably failed to warm up for 5 minutes each time! I don't generally do any work before that but have been a bit impatient. I do wonder when/if I should open the tractor wide to help seat everything?
sounds like you are on the right track. yes you could easily bump those RPM'S up a tad. the tractor will like it! engine will burn cleaner and perform much better. only time I run mine lower than 540 mark is when I'm trying to reduce noise for my neighbors but even then I'm running at 2000 rpm
Great video Dave. I have the same tractor you have, L2800-HST (2008 model) and a problem since day one is a jerky 3 point lifting a heavy implement like an auger out of a hole or a heavy six blade tiller. Lowering anything is smooth, problem is only when lifting. Kubota service manager said I need to upgrade to a stronger pump since they put "cheaper" pumps in the smaller units. $1200 so I've just put up with it. The adjustment knob below the seat doesn't seem to help. Btw have a new subscriber today. Thanks!
yes this model and a dew others have a jerky three point. I have seen some folks claim they fixed it. not sure I believe that. also not sure I believe the pump is the issue. flow and pressure is plenty in fact that is the issue. the flow and pressure is to much which causes the jerky three point. some have installed a variable valve in line that they claim fixes that issue. I ordered one myself and its been sitting here in the box unopened for over a year now. I will say lower RPM's will help smooth it out a lot. and going from what ever position its at to all the way up fast helps as well. its when you try to lift a little at a time that it gets violently jerky. I been thinking about building an orifice to install in line and restrict the flow at the three point cylinder to see if that helps. if I do I will make a video showing the mod. other than that these L2800 tractors are great tractors and seem to hold up very well. I have over 700 hours on mine.
thanks Alan I'm still alive. hopefully I can get a few videos out now that the weather is getting better. between cold and now rain its been hard to get any time on the tractor.
yes the owners manual is a nice bed time read. I learn a thing or two reading at night like that. then I sleep on it and by the next day I'm ready to get out and apply what I learned or grease that fitting I knew nothing about. lol ha ha
that MX5100 is a beast of a machine! I borrowed my neighbors for a few days and pushed over some trees. it was a bit big to operate in close quarters but man was that machine a power house ! he wants me to trade him mine for his. I must admit I been considering it.
Yeah Dave, I bought mine brand new about 6 years ago. Its been a great running tractor. The front loader comes off really easy. So that might help you out with the size of it. But it is nice to know you have the power if you need it. If you could use a bigger machine I would definitely think hard about it.
@@jsavoy1 yes indeed I'm seriously considering it. right now that machine is in florida at his brothers property. but once he has it back I will sure consider it. its a nice machine and has a backhoe as well so I wont be losing any functions mine has.
I monitor most all the tractor forums on facebook. I dont closely watch them like I use to. things are so crazy here looking after my mother who has dementia its not easy to get other things done. i'm in most of the kubota tractor groups, the john deere 55 series group, the compact tractor group, Learning my tractor group, and a few others. it use to be just a few groups now its really to many to be in all of them.
Hi Dave, I’ve got a Kubota L3130 bought new in 2003. The operators manual doesn’t have a “Rated Revolution “ listed. The only mention of RPM is under PTO Power which is 25.5 @ 2700 RPM. Mine is a manual transmission but there’s no listing for GST or HST either. I’ve always drove around just using the gas pedal and increasing the engine speed lever for loader work or rear PTO. Is this not the right way to operate? It doesn’t seem right to me to transit or do lightweight jobs at that high of an engine speed. Glad to see you again Bro.
you should be fine operating just as you are for the main reason being yours is a gear drive tranny and came factory with a throttle peddle as well as a throttle lever. your hydraulics are only used when the loader, three point lift or hydraulic steering if its equipped with hydraulic steering. the only heat build up for your tractor is when one of those functions are used. the rest of the time the fluid is simply free flowing through the system and back to tank. this is what I miss about my old gear drive tractor. that and the fact the gear drive had a much more torque in low gear than anything I could ever get out this HST. if you start using your tractor to run a hydraulic log splitter for example then by all means run the RPM up with the lever and hold it there at 540 or above.
Zero turn mowers are designed to run the engine at full throttle. Speed is then controlled by the hydraulic pumps. I set my fixed throttle on my Mahindra when bush hogging the pasture and set for 540
that's how I do mine as well. yes those hydraulic pumps need the speed to insure proper flow rates and pressures. wish I had a zero turn mower. they are super fast to cut with.
Great to see you back in the seat. I agree with starting at low idle, but I bought a reprint manual for one of my older tractor's it's a 1958 and that says to start at half throttle. Wierd but I'm assuming it has something to do with air flow because even though it's diesel it has a butterfly on the intake. Also great information and probably often not thought of with the hydro transmissions. Thankyou sir! Ad·www.agkits.com/tractors Case 430 Tractor Operators Manual
Bill, I am curious, where did you get a reprint of your manual? I would be curious to see my 1962 Case 430 manual and see what they say. I only have a shop manual (short version). Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.jensales.com/content/ppp/case-tractor-operators-manual-ca-o-430-530.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjn-8-7zLriAhUNvKwKHZogDrAQFjACegQIBxAO&usg=AOvVaw1PenhxBgga891WtpQHbqkO. Here is one link I found. I don't know if we can post links here, if we can't I will redo it on your channel or to your email. Good luck Joe and if I can help more just let me know.Ad·www.agkits.com/tractors Case 430 Tractor Operators Manual.
yes you are 100% correct. what I dont understand is why so many tend to ignore it and put around at low RPM'S making the tractor engine load up and not burn as clean. I can tell you when I change my oil its never black as coal and smelling burnt like so many I hear about. I can only figure that is because I run mine at the upper end of the rated RPM range.
Very interesting subject and important l need some tractor seat time also. Along with all the farmers around here, if it would dry up. Looks to me like HP should be rated at 540 rpm speed of PTO ?
yes been raining here all spring just been nasty a real mess. the HP is also measured at the 540 mark at the pto which is why typically the pto hp and the tractor hp are two different numbers. its even more wide a gap on these HST tractors, but over all pretty much all the specs on these tractors are calculated at the publish engine RPM rating. this includes the flow rate and pressure of the hydraulic pump. the main point to the video and I likely should have said it towards the end is if you don't know your tractors rated rpm then staying at or around the 540 mark is a safe place to be. hope you are both doing well.
My question pretains to a power shuttle. I have a LS MT5.73 (73 hp) with a 20 speed transmission. Start up rpm is 1,000 RPM. So, do I use my hand throttle to set the minimum level say like 540 RPM rate then use the FOOT throttle to "move" the tractor? it has DPF but no DEF tank. I don't want to lug the engine thus pre maturely clogging the filter and extra regens.
I would look in the owners manual under specifications > engine > rated RPM and that is where I would run the machine throttle control unless when running a pto powered implement requires a slight reduction in RPM'S. however keep in mind gear drive tractors can be more forgiving when it comes to RPM range as compared to say a HST drive. your owners manual will likely specify the minimum recommended RPM for general operation in respect to DPF health. I like to run a minimum of 540 at the pto which equates to around 2450 RPM at the tractor engine to get 540 at the pto. some larger tractors adjust automatically when the pto is engaged. they have no indication on the dash as to where 540 relates to tractor engine RPM. hope this helps.
Good video Dave. New subscriber. Looked in my Mahindra 4540 manual and it says rated speed 2300 high idle 2500, low ldle 750. Not sure why but it's interesting! Lol
so this means the rated speed is the RPM at which all aspects of that tractor are rated. ie lift capacity, flow rate and pressure of hydraulic pump, ground speed in each gear and so on. low idle is the lowest allowable idle speed to start and warm the tractor up. high idle speed is the highest you would ever want to run the tractor. at that speed the tractor fuel economy will suffer but it will likely run at the high idle speed if it has dpf and goes into a regen cycle. that if it auto idles when it goes into regen mode. if its not auto idle then a light will come on indicating you need to run the RPM up until the light goes out or the RPM of regen is met. Mahindra makes a great tractor! I'm sure you are enjoying it.
@@daveknowshow thanks for the in depth reply, I got the new tier 4 CRD motor that doesn't have the whole DEF regen thing! From what I understand about that I'm glad I dont
When I want fine control - - say I'm placing a log that weighs a few hundred pounds on my splitter, I drop all the way to the lowest RPM and I get a much smoother control. No herky jerky. Yah, I know I'm choking off the hydro flow. That's what I want to do.
you also use a flow diverter control valve that diverts part of the fluid back to tank. this keeps the main pump spinning where it needs to be and simply redirects the fluid as needed to create a softer adjustment. my tractor is famous for a jerky three point lift so I installed one to help smooth it out
Every engine - car, lawn mower, or tractor needs to be cranked at the lowest rpm it will crank at and idled until the oil temperature has thinned to provide full lubrication. Five to ten minutes warming will prolong the life of what ever you got. Maybe you use the new 5w-40 oils that are suppose to let er' rip. Take a short break. On cold mornings I won't leave my driveway till i can feel a bit of heat flowing in my van's vents. I learned this by having low water or antifreeze in my radiator system. I also saw buyers at impound sales crank up cars for sale - floor board them immediately, and blow the engine. My L39GST may outlive me. Play it safe!
of course I think most people do allow a warm up period before taking off. however some model tractors call for starting at mid RPM range. you must read your manual and go by that.
@@daveknowshow - So? who has the manual when they fire it up. Only engine mechanics know how thick and cold oil damages metal bearings and cuts engine life by operating without proper lubrication. Mechanics love those rebuild jobs.
@@jimhiatt5279 I'm no engine mechanic myself but I know improper oil specs for the climate your in can be very hard on an engine as well. these charts are in the manual and I as try to state in these videos for people to check their manual. important stuff in there. the guy I bought my tractor from used the wrong oil in it 15w40 which was not good for this tractor in our winter climate even as mild as our winters are. he read to use 15w40 on the internet forum and just used it rather than reading the manual. you could hear the engine screaming for oil when you started her up in the snowy cold conditions. 10w40 made a huge difference. allowing the tractor to warm up makes a huge difference also which I already covered tractor warm up in a previous video. with all that said this information is sure worth speaking about again. thanks for bringing it up so others can read it here and be aware. I'm sure it will help a lot of folks and just maybe they will break open the owners manual, some good information in there. again thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@daveknowshow. I bought my L39TLB online and valves noise is some time noisy as hello dolly, Diesel engines are noisy but do not send a message of being happy about it. It will dig and move dirt as fast as my left handed procedures can make it do so at an 1800 rpm rate. It's just math. More RPM = more power equals = easier digging = more engine wear = early failure. It's not a money maker - just a big boy toy. If there is a happy RPM for the least engine wear when digging or other then I would like to know that. PLEASE???
Hey Dave good to see another good video. I do have a question tho. My jd2038r has an auto throttle mode they recommend for loader work and it never gets to the rated rpm unless you are running it pretty hard. Do you think this is a bad deal from jd and should I not use it? I find it very handy especially doing loader work but not handy enough to mess my tractor up. Thanks keep up the good work
if its a gear drive tractor it wont matter as much since the tranny is not using hydraulic pressure and flow from the pump. if its an HST they likely have it tuned in via the on board computer to monitor temperatures and load and adjust RPM's accordingly. some of this technology is fairly new and its anyone's guess just how reliable it will be long term. some of it has been used for years flawlessly. unfortunately I don't have access to a JD certified tech that I can drill questions and concerns at like I can my son who was a certified Kubota repair tech. during his tour of duty with Kubota I had access to lots of inside tech stuff and could ask questions and he could get answers. which in the case of this RPM issue is the only reason I know as much as I know about the importance of the rated RPM and its relation to hydraulic flow. I know that the 540 mark is a low end safe spot and running at or above the 540 mark should be satisfactory for every tractor out here by design they are built to run correctly at the 540 mark. I know that does not answer your question so if I was you I would ask JD how long this technology has been being used and what are the pitfalls if any. sometimes a casual walk to back of the dealership where the repair techs are at can render some answers that are straight from the man who has to fix the thing when it fails. take it all with a grain of salt as sometimes these repair techs are afraid to tell the truth in fear of loosing their job. you have to ask the right questions in the right way. so he gives an honest answer with out risking his job for being honest.
2004 New Holland TC33 1800 hrs, rpm went crazy. It's in the shop for gauge cluster, steering hose and cylinder, plus new Tip and Tilt cylinder, I bent. It's going on 5 weeks in shop. My dig a hole projects are building up. Had a real mind thing figuring out what I should get. Ended up it's a Kubota K008-3 coming next week. Remember this: ruclips.net/video/TtQm34QopN8/видео.html
I Have a 3023E JD. So I use my Brush Hog mostly , So Start my engine at lowest RPM, Then raise it up to ?? What? to kick in my PTO ??? Then raise the RPM's to 23- 2500 RPM's to run the brush Hog?? Then when I finish, do I reverse this process? So to shut down the Brush Hog, do I lower the RPM'S , or do I leave them up high. Or slower lower them down to nothing to stop.the PTO I do not seem to get this whole process right?? Every time I do this ,I think I am messing up ???? Do you have an easer explanation ?? Daaaaaa😢 my brain is not getting this very well ? SORRY! JUST NEED HELP!
Yes I engage the pto at lower rpm then raise it slowly to the 540 mark. What ever rpm that it. On shut down I lower the rpm down then disengage the pto. On mine I must press the clutch pedal to engage or disengage the pto. Study your owners manual for your specific model machine. I hope this helps. Tim , over at tractor time with Tim is very knowledgeable with jd tractors. You might leave him the question and reference that I sent you to him. This way he will see you asked me but I was not 100 percent sure so sent you there. He will likely personally get you the answer you need. I’m just not real familiar with that model. Pretty sure Tim has that model.
I would not run at full for the first 100 hours but after that sure, just helps it run cleaner. your fuel mileage may go down slightly at full throttle unless full throttle is the rated RPM set by the manufacturer. keep in mind never run above the 540 pto mark when using the pto. but for loader work, boxblade work and so on yes its safe to run on the high side.
Hi Dave. My mother was bushhogging in high grass for a few hours and then heard a bubbling sound from the front of the tractor so she shut it off and let it cool in the field. she went back a few hours later and moved the tractor under the shed. Now she says it won't crank or do anything when she tries to crank it. Any ideas. Its a Kubota L3010. Thanks so much. Great Videos.
check the pto lever safety switch its likely stuck or a safety switch somewhere. also check the coolant level make sure to clean the front of the radiator. I bet its clogged up. I just hope there is no damage to the engine. I wonder how hot it ran for how long? of course if it cranked to move it back then more likely it's a safety switch somewhere.
Any advice for when my Kubota HST rpms bog down under a loader...like scrape blading my gravel driveway going up hill. I usually back off on the "drive pedal" until rpms come up and then I'll nurse up the rest of the hill.
Dave I have a Kubota MX5100. From all indication I should be running the cutter around 2500 RPM's. The problem is that the lever on the dash to increase the RPM will not hold higher than about 1200-1500. I can hold it but when I let go it drops back to the 12-1500 range. Is there a way to adjust this lever where I don't have to hold it to increase the RPM's?
yes I believe there is an adjustment for tension on the throttle control shaft. just follow the shaft and you will likely see it. you might also download the online owners manual and WSM if available. you can find many of these free at this website kubotabooks.com hope this helps
I really enjoy your videos Dave. Glad you’re back. I had hoped you were also gonna talk about non-HST tractors like mine. I have an older (1986) JD full size 65hp utility tractor. The 540 rating is 2400 rpm. But it seems like an un-necessary wast of fuel and horsepower to run that thing screaming at 2400 Rom. I normally move around at around 1500-1800 rpm and open it up if I’m into heavy loader, box blade or 6’ rotary cutter. I really don’t know if that’s right. The book says only that the operating range is between 1500 and 2400 rpm. But no details or examples as to what rpm within that range you would use for varying attachments. What do you think?
great question. on a manual drive tractor you have more flexibility. your hydraulics will not over heat unless they are being used heavily doing loader work or a lot of three point up and down or perhaps running a hydraulic log splitter. in those cases I like to be up on the RPM a bit to help cool the hydraulic fluid and maintain adequate hydraulic pressure where needed. when using a box blade, road blade and such typically you are not up and down so much with the three point so a slower RPM can be used. the trouble you run into is a slower RPM results in a slower travel speed at a higher gear. this creates the potential for stalling the tractor and puts more stress on the engine . where as a higher RPM in a lower gear gives the same slow travel speed needed with much more brute strength and not much worry of stalling the tractor motor. this equates to less stress on the engine. as far as PTO powered implements such as brush hogs and what not I like to stay right at the 540 mark even under a load. this helps keep the blade tip speed where it needs to be. maintains momentum to insure no potential stalling hazard as well. this all helps the mower and tractor run more efficiently. most of these gear driven tractors come with a throttle peddle as well as a throttle lever. the throttle peddle is for one main reasons if your locked at a certain RPM with the lever and need a little more go you can mash on the peddle. typically this is used when pulling a wagon of sorts like a hay wagon. the hay wagon does not use the PTO power nor does it use hydraulics so a lower RPM can be set and then throttle up via foot peddle when you encounter an incline and need a bit more power to her up the hill. this is typically when a lower RPM is desired. I would however stay with in the range the manufacturer specifies in all other cases. to low and your straining your tractor as well as slowing the blade rotational speed which governs the cooling system for the engine itself located at the radiator. slower engine speeds mean the water pump is turning slower, the cooling fan is turning slower all while the tractor may very well be under a tremendous load depending on what you are trying to do at a low RPM. that range they give you is how the tractor is designed to run and keep it cool and not stressed PROVIDED you select the correct gear to run in. pulling heavy loads in higher gears at the lower RPM range can equate to over heating and over stressing your tractor. I wanted to include this in the video however the video was running long anyway. I may make a part two and include these thoughts on manual gear drive tractors. I was a huge gear drive tractor fan all my life and never wanted no HST tractor. then one day I ended up getting rid of my JD gear drive tractor and got this Kubota HST. so far I really like this HST and I think it will save on clutch wear in the event someone else drives it that otherwise would likely ride my clutch and destroy it. plus it is handy and quicker than clutching and when working on hillsides much safer. cant get that gear drive tractor back in gear if she pops out and starts rolling fast down hill. lol scary time to be in the tractor seat! yeehaw and hang on brother! always good hearing from folks with good questions such as yours. I hope I explained things in a way you can get where I'm coming from.
daveknowshow - thank you Dave. I think I got your drift. It probably would be good for you to do a video in it just to clear up what you mean. Especially for people like me who are pretty new to tractor operation and can’t afford a newer tractor with the HST transmissions.
the hydraulic fluid does get very hot and if not for the additives it would likely burn and loose its effectiveness. the cooling action of the flow rate radiator and fan is more to keep it from over heating because its far from cool when it under pressure working. just feel your hydraulic cylinders after long use they get real hot and sometimes you can smell the hydraulic fluid like its cooking.
daveknowshow - Yeah... especially when considering that if you reach the end-of-travel (or overload something) and the pressure relief valve trips, all that power from the engine is only going into heating the hydraulic fluid. If you have a 6 gpm pump, and a relief valve set at 2000 psi, that’s about 5000 watts of heating going into the fluid... 🤔
I have a kubota l2501 that has a 30hp engine de-tuned to 25hp by lowing the rpm to 2400 max rpm. Not enough rpm, I plan on turning up the rpm. Dave what is the max rpm on your tractor?
my rated RPM is 2800 your rated RPM is 2200 if I'm not mistaken. not 100% sure seemed like I read the L2501 was 2200 rpm. your 2501 is the same engine and same tractor as my l2800. mine is a 29hp you could get 29hp out of yours. honestly you likely get 29hp out of it from the factory. they just rated it where it is to avoid emissions.
check the manual and make sure that loader came with float position. some did not some came with float on the lower and float on the dump as well. likely just needs cleaning inside the valve body. its a job that needs to be done in a clean controlled well lit area. lots of parts you can easily lose.
There are a few options on both start up throttle, and operating RPM. As a heavy equipment owner operator with two full time mechanics servicing my escalators, tractors and dozers, I’ve got a couple of rules that in the long run pay off. First sted fast rule, no engine will be started at anything other than idle throttle. Talk to any seasoned owner or mechanic to back this up. Your start up wear is the worst, gets much worse as ambient temps go down. Once the engine has started, and after a couple of minutes then go up to operating RPM. It saves bearings, cam surfaces and cylinder walls. I’ve seen first hand the damage otherwise.
As for operating RPM. It all depends on the task. There is no stead fast rule about always keeping your equipment at high RPMs. As for efficiency, all diesels have thermostats which after warm up keep the engine at a narrow safe temperature. I’ve seen at most a 15 degree difference between idle and wide open in my small diesels. Operating pressures and flow generally peak, with my three Kubotas, at 2300 RPM. From 2000 to 2300, it’s not a huge difference. The three Kubotas I run, B26, MS111 & M6 141, all have analog temp and pressure guages to get precise readings.
High RPMs are best for heavy, hard operations. Of course bogging the engine is one of the worst things you can do. However, for most uses the RPMs can be held at 1800 to 2000 with excellent wear and tear prevention. I’ve measured fuel burn, as diesel prices doubled I had to address maximum efficiency. My average monthly diesel bill is $22,000. No matter the engine, from 25hp all the way up to my 370 0hp excavator, peak fuel efficiency is reached at 70% of gross RPM. I spent a lot of time and money to gather this data. So, as a company we generally run at 70%, going to 100% for the most heaviest of chores.
very interesting and much appreciate you sharing your expertise in this area. I know I learned a lot and others will as well. I will pin this comment so others can benefit from it. thanks again for your time and effort.
This is great information! Thank you for taking time to share the results of your data gathering. Really helpful to understand.
thank you. can you clarify what you mean by "gross" RPM pls?
Great information.
New tractor owner here. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, insight and experience. It so helpful to us newbies.
I love hearing this. Sometimes us creators wonder why we even do it. Your words help justify why we do it. Sharing is caring my friend
You explained the hydro system perfectly. Makes total sense. Well done.
thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the video channel
Great video Dave. Flow rate of the hydraulic pump is one of the things people don't seem to fully understand. I see so many people post about sloppy/loose hydraulic cylinders. Most of them don't admit that they were working the hydraulics at low RPM leading up to the issue or that they typically operate hydraulics at low RPM. They also forget that some of their hydraulic flow is sucked up by the power steering. What ends up happening is they get air in their hydraulic lines and need to crack a fitting or two to purge it quickly rather than running high RPM for a long period to let the hydraulic system self purge.
So true!
Hi Dave Three years after you posted this and I learned from it today. Thanks from Ottawa, Ontario.
awesome so glad these videos help
I have watched about a dozen of DaveK owsHow videos. This man is an absolute genius. I have taken his advice on the brush cutter and my cut quality and efficiency have improved noticeably.
Dave, you need to make more videos. Do not stop. Keep educating.
thank you Charles for the kind and encouraging words. I plan to keep posting more videos and soon I hope to post some more powerful implement set up videos that will surely help a great many folks.
Good morning Dave! Great to see a new video out. Thanks for the info on RPM - really helpful to me and I am sure to others as well. And hey, not boring. I really appreciate that when you are explaining things , you always take time and go over things slowly - helps me to catch on to the lesson or point you are making. Thanks again - always learn a lot from your vids! Cheers!
thanks so much for dropping by my channel. I hope to get a few more video out before the weather goes sour again. been a rainy nasty spring here.
Very good information. I have never really thought about how I run my tractor as far as RPM. I really like watching your videos because of the clear information that you put out. I have learned much from you and look forward to seeing more.
glad to hear you are enjoying the content! I hope to get some good information out in some videos to come.
Great common sense advice Dave. I love the attention you give to cooling the hydraulics. I always remember to slow ride back to the barn or idle my tractor for a few minutes after mowing to cool the hydraulics down.
My JD 2025R does call for 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for starting but I find it's mostly needed for winter operation otherwise it will stumble badly. Come summer, the idle to 1/4 setting is fine for starting. And if I use a block heater in the winter I can use 1/4 throttle for starting.
good to know Denise I knew I had heard that about certain tractor models. hard to keep them all in my head. getting older so my mental recall is slacking a bit these days. hope you are doing well and always great to hear from you on the channel.
Loved this video. I have never heard any of this information before and didn't realize the importance of rpms. Thanks for the information.
glad to share it and get it out there. I have a few years experience with tractors and it helps that my son was once a certified Kubota repair technician. I get lots of inside scoop from the repair guys.
Thanks for the info. Great job
always happy to share and help.
Great information. It's hard to find good information on the appropriate RPM for various tasks. I've just learned that I'm running way to low on my Kubota when operating the backhoe. Thanks for the video!
glad you found the video and I'm sure it will help. a little higher rpm when backhoe operation is being done will smooth out the duel function ability for sure among other improvements. we all learn as time moves on I hope to speed the learning curve up with my videos. thanks for the kind words it does mean a lot.
Great to see you again Dave! You sound and look good. Hope spring is finally here. Best regards.
thanks brother I'm feeling well today. I just keep going and yes seems like summer is here today its hot and humid out here today
Great to see you, Dave! I always enjoy how you cover the subject. Thanks!
thanks Joe always good to see you. I was thinking of you the other day I have a snow plow project I really need to finish. lol been on the back burner for a while now.
I guess you will have time before next winter! Hopefully, we will do another snow plow for Dave (RCAFPolarexpress) to fit his Mahindra. It should be well before next fall. For sure we will make some videos!
@@FromSteelToWood Thank you again Joe ! and Dave thank you very much for your very good video glad to see you ! Keep up the good work !!! Cheers !
This Vlog is very helpful, I will check my owners manual on my Kubota, I have a L4701 which has the DEF filter, Your advice is the best I’ve found , while I have looked through the manual for maintenance info, I guess being a big dummy, I did not know where to look for that info. But now I do, thxs
man L4701 is a dream machine of mine. I'm jealous for sure that is a great tractor!
I was trying to figure this out when I first got the tractor. Your advice is appreciated.
glad to help and thanks for stopping by my channel!
I usually crack the throttle on my 26 hp Kubota when starting it. After a little warm up I run it wide open for most uses. I think it runs cleaner and more efficiently like that. These little diesels have a 100 percent duty cycle. I really don’t think it hurts them to be worked hard. Good to see you making videos again. Have a good one.
I agree and your Kubota will live a long and healthy life. that is exactly how I start and run mine as well. thanks for dropping by good to see you.
Great video ,on the Kubota BX23S there is a helpful guide on the cluster that tells you where to run your rpm, I always enjoy you videos thanks for sharing !
awesome they need a guide on all these tractors really.
Hey Dave , just want to thank you for the great informative videos. I watched your channel often when I was deciding which tractor to buy . I settled on an Kubota L3901and I love it . I'm learning as I go and your channel is always helping me out . Please keep up the great work. Thanks.
wow L3901 is a super nice choice in a tractor! I know a bunch of people who went that model and I hear nothing but good stuff from all of them. I know it will serve you well for years to come and also hold its value to the very end! glad you found your way to my channel and I deeply appreciate you spending your valuable time watching a few of my videos. peace love and respect Dave in Virginia!
I’m glad I found your channel Dave I just recently bought a Kioti DK tractor and your insight and experience is very helpful this video is right on the money I’ve always wondered about the RPMs and where I should run it and thank you for this video it’s very helpful
thanks my brother enjoyed watching your builds over there on your channel I'm sure a lot of my subscribers would love to sub your channel. keep those videos coming.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video Dave! I enjoyed it! I was getting hammered about rpm's in my videos and made a rpm clip trying to chill down the issue a bit. Hopefully your video will do the same. And it can create more debates afterwards too. Theres a heavy equipment mechanic on RUclips called western truck and tractor repair, guy by the name of Warren, he has talked about keeping the rpms up on the newer diesels so all the dpf stuff dont get clogged up (as quickly). It was in a video series he did where the tractor engine went bad at pretty low hours, and they were running it through a field at very low rpms most the time, which Warren thinks contributed to that engine biting the dust. Not to mention like you said how the hydraulic oil isnt being cooled very well. I've gotten hammered for mowing my yard at WOT and people are saying "turn them rpm's down! Interestingly on my tractor I couldn't find any mowing verbage for belly mowing, yet its recommended to run full rpms for running my front snowblower. I've mowed slower rpms but do like it better at wide open throttle. And that's the way dad did it years ago. Another interesting talk is what rpms to engage pto"s. On the gas John deeres if I recall right, they recommend close to wide open at engagement, but on diesels, the torque is there to engage much less. I dont ever just hop on my tractor and crank that diesel to wide open right away, it makes alot of extra noise for about 5 minutes, then starts to quiet down, then I kick up the R's to where I want em. Wish the wife wanted a garden. Then I could buy a tiller for my tractor. Maybe I need a new wife! Just kidding. I asked her what she wanted for her birthday. She said she wants a divorce. Told her I wasnt looking to spend THAT much!
that was a pretty funny ending I needed the laugh! yes you are 100% correct as is Warren these motors are built designed and spec out based on rated RPM's one thing that drove me to make this video is all the talk about HST tractors whine to much, to loud and so on. if people run the RPM where they need to be you cant hear the whine for two reasons one is most of the whine is from low RPM'S and starving the HST tranny for fluid flow and the other is higher RPM's and you cant hear the whine over that diesel engine humming along. lol thanks for dropping by anyone gives you any crap about RPM'S point them to this video. my son worked as a certified Kubota repair and trouble shooting tech for years. he swears by the fact that if you don't run the tractors where they need to be they wont last long. 540 is the low end of the RPM range on most tractors. with that said a gear drive tractor is a little more forgiving which is why most come with a throttle peddle as well as a throttle lever. even still I would run those at least 540 or near there. I would not putt around on it.
" I asked her what she wanted for her birthday. She said she wants a divorce. Told her I wasn't looking to spend THAT much!".......Bahahaha...TO FUNNY
It is great to see you and your great videos back again Dave, missed you a lot man. Thanks for spending the time making the videos for all of us.
THANK YOU Jeff its always good to hear from folks who enjoy the videos.
Country cook'n made ya GOOD look'n DAVE!👍😉 Love all your tractor vids. Kubota 🍊 Club fans thank you! 😊
thanks Dave D good seeing you again! my sister sent me that shirt. said she thought of me when she seen it. lol
I was getting worried about you Dave. I was working on my tractor the other day and the I thought wow it has been a while since I heard from Dave. Keep up the good work.
thanks Mitch I'm still hanging in there hope you are doing well my friend.
How's she goin'? Good to see you back!!! Great info and it makes sense to do what you are saying. Keep the vids coming buddy!!! Take care!!!
thank you my friend. yes its been a long cold winter and a wet spring so not much decent weather for tractor videos. hoping to get a few out before weather turns bad again. thanks for stopping by my channel.
Nobody is better at this than Dave. And, Dave is so correct, there are a lot of good tractor channels out there. The really good ones often refer back to Dave, however. Thanks, Dave.
RHenry, M.D.
thank you so much for the kind words. I try to make decent content. wish I could do more for the tractor community. be blessed peace love and respect Dave in Virginia
Incredible video. So hard to find this info. Thank you so much.
Awesome , thank you an hope your tractoring days are filled with fun.
Good information Dave. I run my John Deere with the mower deck at about 2600 rpms. When I have the front end loader and box blade on in the winter I turn it up depending on the amount of snow. You take care.
hey Joel appreciate the kind words and really nice to have you drop by the channel and watch a video or two. hope you have a great week!
Dave, I agree with you on the first part of the video about starting a tractor. As a mechanic I dont see the purpose of starting a cold engine regardless of the time of year at half throttle... It doesnt make sense to me, I wouldnt start my car and do that or my chainsaw or actually anything lol Great video with some great tips! I have a Kubota BX24 and I dont have an RPM gauge so I run it mid throttle if im just cranking around but heavy lifting and scooting around ill bump it up a bit! Have a good weekend! Thanks for sharing!
thanks for dropping by Jay always good to hear from you and I enjoy your channel. I'm sure many of the folks who watch and subscribe to my channel will find your channel very interesting.
Great explanation Dave. That info is some most of us don't even think about. Thanks
thanks my brother always good to see you. your channel is really growing and coming along very well.
Great info, thanks and glad to see a new update and you healthy and ready for summer.
thanks Bob I'm hanging in there tough as nails!
RUclips why did I not get a notification that Dave made this video? I am a sub.
Excellent subject Dave. I have had the same question.
ole youtube can be slacking a bit lately.
Dropping another LIKE on your video, Watching and Supporting! I just love that opening, "Dave Knows How!"
thanks for the support
Good video as always Dave Iam glad you make these videos please keep them coming. Also wanted to comment to help you out. Have a good day Dave
thanks so much Shaun the comments do help a great deal with youtube and google so it is very much appreciated! hope you are having a great day!
Great info on RPM, thanks for video.
thanks for dropping by Harley good to see you my friend.
Thanks Dave! I like the saying on the back of your shirt!! Great info, I see no reason at all to do a half throttle start on a cold engine. Lets give it a chance to warm up first!
I agree 100% I like to give that oil a chance to pump up top before I go throttle her up. thanks for dropping by.
I let mine warm up for 15minutes on idle. 120 hours now.
Thanks Dave. I've made the mistake of running at 1800RPM when pushing over saplings. Definitely not enough grunt. Just got a rock bucket. Now I will run it at around 2200 to 2400 RPM (Kubota MX5100).
man I love that Mx5100 my neighbor has one and I borrowed that beast one time and man oh man I did NOT want to return it!! lol that thing can really push hard. I pushed over trees I could never push over with my little L2800.
@@daveknowshow My model came with rear hydraulic outlet (runs from same point as the raise/lower lever on the 3-point linkage), and industrial tyres giving a lower centre of gravity. I have a Canadian Splitfire log splitter on at the moment. Of note is that there is no way you can attach a back-hoe but I don't need one of those.
I have an older model John Deere 2040, they recommend to operate the tractor at 1500 rpms or more under normal operation. They recommend to limit the engine operation below 1500 rpms to 5 mins.
Steve Mc I’m glad someone else mentioned this. I bushhogged with my dads old ford 3600 the other day and 1600 on it is screaming pretty good. Older stuff is a little different I suppose. At the same time though I can’t help but think of how reliable and how many old fords and John Deere 4020s there are out there still in operation today, great tractors!
yes this is why its a good idea to check the rated RPM of your specific tractor. the older JD tractors and many other brands have a different RPM rating and recommendation than my Kubota. heck even the new Kubota l2501 has a different rpm rating of 2200 rpms I think 540 is like 1700rpms or so not sure.
@@daveknowshow something else to keep in mind also, for the gentlemen that commented above you is. And, I'm sure you already know. Those older tractors are great but having the hydro transmission makes all the differance in the world.
I wrote this reply here because I think it will go to both of them.
@@billfischer6464 yes I agree this HST is the ticket! I was reluctant to get one as I was a die hard gear guy and wanted nothing but a gear drive. man I'm so glad I got this HST because it makes every aspect of tractor work a breeze! especially with cruise control!
I just got a HST 3902 …had a 2501 with a manual trans! Drove it like a truck with the throttle pedal on the floor board !
The 3902 HST I run the throttle to about 1800 rpms with normal light use! If I’m dragging something or working the bucket hard I’ll run it up to 2500 or so!
1800 is about the lowest i would run it. i sometimes do the same late nights when i'm trying to keep noise levels down for neighbors as i move firewood.
Nice vid Dave. Shows exactly why I do not own an HST. LoL. FYI. Rpm does not equate to better hydro cooling on a linear scale. Faster rpm = higher flow rate = less time in oil cooler = not much difference. The manufacturers have the oil cooling at various rpm’s built into the system design. Now for HST, yes you need higher rpm to get torque on the ground. Later Dave.
yes with this HST you need to higher RPM to keep the flow and pressure up since the pump directly responds to the RPM and is set up to be ran at the rated RPM of the engine. you can starve an HST tranny with low flow rates which will in turn over heat the fluid. a faster flow rate and better pressure work much more efficiently . the manufacturers design the hydraulic cooling system between two major number. the rated RPM of the tractor and the 540 mark, the cooling system works its best between these two points. thus resulting in a cooler hydraulic oil as well as engine temperature. thanks for dropping by.
Hi Dave! It’s great to see another video from you! Thanks for providing excellent information on the proper tractor RPM for best performance and maximizing the life of the tractor. I typically run at about 1700 RM in the medium speed range (HST) when I’m just moving around my property and crank it up to 2500 RPM or higher for loader work or backhoe. Now I’m going to check my manual to see what my engine’s rated RPM is and take that into consideration. Looking forward to your next video!
for sure its best to check that owners manual and see what the rated RPM is then adjust from there. typically your pretty safe if you hang right around the 540 mark on any tractor. thanks for dropping by and I hope to get a few more videos out over the summer.
Simple, clear, helpful
glad you enjoyed it. thanks for stopping by.
Great video Dave lots of great information looking forward to more videos keep them coming
thank you I'm hopeful to create a few more informational videos over the summer months.
Dave, I just stopped in again to wish you a Happy Fathers Day. Enjoy it, my friend. Don
thanks my Brother been a good day had a nice visit from my son. happy fathers day to you as well my friend.
Hey Dave. Good to see you back out and riding. I revisit my manual for a good refresher. It's always good to recheck and verify. Yep, I can imagine this being a topic of discussion in a tractor forum. Always learn something new from your videos. Yep Dave it's been hotter than the dickens all week. Later and give ole Daisy a mild tug on her neckerchief for me (ha).
man I figured you were getting this heat wave to. the humidity has been off the chain the last two days considering its not even june yet. sheesh to hot for Daisy to even go outside. she in here sleep in the A/C but she will be up chasing coyote off all night. now we have a bear cub roaming around her. hope she don't try tangling with that beast. lol
@@daveknowshow Yep, it's dang hot down here Dave. Thinking of trading in my 2005 open platform Massey 1533 for a cab unit with AC. No more excessive heat, bugs, skeeters, yellow flies, ground bees, or even elements to deal with. I'm making some garage modifications to be able to get it into the tractor shed since it's just a tad taller (according to the specs). I've talked about it for over 9 years so I'm hoping I can do it this year. I still have 14 more months of mortgage so I gotta do some $hifting of fund$. Yep, ole Daisy is a smart dog. Stay in during the day and go out when it's cooler. Smart dog. Okay, let me get out in my hot garage and do some clearing up of stuff.
Hey Dave, nice to see you are doing well!! That is some great info and to the point. Not allowing the Hydro fluid to cool will make your HST run sluggish and weak. Not including the damage it will cause to it and the pump! On these sub compacts the RPM's are a little different but you are right that the manual should give us the RPMs needed to run them. Nice to see you again and I hope you have a great weekend!! Enjoyed the video!!
thanks don't know why I'm just seeing this comment. youtube is slacking. lol
Wow I didn't realise I have to run the tractor for a few minutes before shutdown. I'll do that from now on especially since it is also a turbo.
Great video Dave! Definitely information that could help any tractor owner, take care my friend!
thank you very much. I hope it will help some folks. after answering this question on so many forums and in emails I finally figured its a good subject for a video.
Good video Dave I think every tractor owner should read there manual LOL to know there machine more. Video not boring at all really good information my friend.
thanks so much for dropping by Mr Teddy Bear it is great seeing you my friend!
Hey Dave. The only reason to run at rated pto rpm is for SPEED. As rpm goes up, friction goes up and so does heat. I have equipment that is 50 years old and I don't run anywhere near the pto rpm. Much easier on everything to run at a lower rpm. The rated rpm is for the ability to get the job done in the shortest amount of time, which is not easy on the equipment.
it all depends on what your doing and what tractor your using. if its a gear drive tractor and all your doing is pulling a hay wagon then yes lower RPM'S wont hurt a thing. not so with an HST tranny as it needs the proper flow rate and pressure from the pump. the pump works directly in relation to the engine RPM. it is very important to not starve an HST tranny of hydraulic flow and pressure. this comes straight from Kubota corporation technical training school as my Son is a graduate and worked for many years as a certified Kubota technician. his job was trouble shooting tractors. engines hydraulic systems and all aspects of tractors. if you install a flow and pressure gauge you can plainly see a variation between flow and pressure at low engine RPM verses higher RPM. even with gear drive tractors flow and pressure are very important when using a front end loader, log splitter or any other various implement that require proper flow and pressure of hydraulic fluid. additionally all of these new tractors with DPF emissions systems require a higher RPM to maintain a clean burning system. so as I stated in the video there are exceptions to the rule. your 50 year old tractor that is gas or even diesel may well run just fine at lower RPM'S so long as you do not need the required hydraulic flow and pressure rates to run specific implements or transmissions. many older tractors have a broad RPM window between 800 and 1500 RPM. this is not the case typically with these newer tractors. thanks for the insightful comment. always welcome discussions to toss ideas and theories around.
Running rpm too low can also cause wet stacking. That's when the engine isn't hot enough to expand the metals to make good seals. And to burn all the fuel. So a lot of fuel goes out the exhaust. That's what causes your old tractors to stink and spit that black sludge. It also causes the diesel fuel to wash the oil off the cylinders and cause damage inside. It will lead to fuel in your oil/crank case. Running too low is how you get a huge maintenance bill.
Wow, I didn't even think about that, yet I NEVER move my zero turn unless full rpm. In fact, I've seen videos recommending just 1500 rpm for your loader work an such, but after your video, and most importantly the rest respect i have for your knowledge, I'll be at the minimum 540 rpm from now on. (L2501 hst is 2100). Have a merry Christmas my friend, and keep up the great work so many of us depend on! Thanks
I bet you love that l2501. that machine is one beast of a tractor. my old neighbor bought one and I got to use it. man the hydraulics on that machine is way smoother than mine. appreciate the kind words and hope you have a truly blessed and magical Christmas!
I think it is the best bang for my buck. Loader, and that size tractor for under $20k. I've got a zero turn so need for that mid pto, it just continues to amaze me. I bought a huge rb3772 landpride rear blade, meant for a much larger tractor, I re-crowned and ditched a mile long driveways for a friend, he couldn't believe how it dug and turned up ground. I wanted the weight so it wouldn't hop over hard ground, having no down force, then it i don't want it to dig, I turn it around and am amazed how it moves dirty facing the blade backwards. Plus it offsets 26". I believe the L2501 engine is from the older L3400. With 100 cubic engine, it runs the 540 at 2100rpm, pretty low grunt. I wanted a tractor more than a big lawnmower. I'm gone 6 days at a time for work, so living in Wisconsin, I can come home to quite a mess and hard packed snow, the L2501 doesn't care. The lift height with the loader arms going out in front a ways also makes it nice to pick heavy stuff out sideways from a pickup bed using my bolt on bucket hooks. I lifted my 68" snowblower that way when I bought it. And my video shows how the L2501 blows heavy wet snow with that huge 68" blower. The torque is just amazing. And best of all no emissions crap. I'm so happy I got it. When I left to buy a tractor I was on my way to buy a john deere 3025e. I stopped 1st at the kubota dealer and in a smart ass tone I said, "I'm on my way to buy a 3025e, good luck talking me out of it, but I'll give you a chance". When I saw how heavy duty this was built, I never left. The front axle alone is 3xs as thick as the green one was.
@@ironheadbiker yes I always said if you need a tractor larger than a L2501 then dont waste your money on anything less than a L4701 all the models from L3901 down to the L2501 are pretty much the same except for a little HP that gets eaten up by emissions. lift capacity on all those models are basically the same. when my neighbor started looking at tractors to buy after seeing mine I told him get the L2501 you cant go wrong. he did just that. very happy with the machine. I like that snow blower. if we got more snow here in VA I would look into getting me one. I looked at the same rear blade you have and also the woods version and a bunch others. I ended up getting the opportunity to test out the Dirt Dog Manufacturing version of that model blade and man that blade has been a beast so far. love having the offset function. I will use it a year or so and then do a real world review of what I like and what I dont like. I'm a hard sell when it comes to products I wont ever simply say I like it if I have any one thing about it that I dont like. I still got more testing to do but so far its holding up just fine.
@@daveknowshow Check out the Kioti CK2610 HST. The loader on that 25 hp tractor is rated at 1800#...and the tractor weighs 2701# without the loader/bucket, and 3600# with the loader/bucket. It also lifts higher than any other 25 hp tractor on the market. Very strong machine...for several thousands less than a comparable Kubota or JD.
@@APBT-Bandog interesting I will check one out. thanks for sharing that info
I totally agree with you Dave. My two younger brothers have always disagreed with me. If I'm using my rear mount mower i like to have my engine speed about 2500 rpms. They say its way to fast. I know I get way better performance at this speed. My ground speed is about the same as theirs. Even if i gear down lower i always leave my PTO speed the same.
As always, good advice !
thanks James appreciate you stopping by I'm surprised your not uploading a bunch of videos on the ole tube.
Very informative! I needed this! Thanks!
nice to see you again hope you are doing well. I watched a few of your videos just the other day.
The lord is good!
Great vid with great info. thks
thanks Mr fixit! like that name for a channel that's pretty cool!
@@daveknowshow No channel, but love to share knowledge with others, whenever i can. Take care
Thanks again, Dave.
glad you enjoyed it
Dave, this is very helpful. Have a new B2601. The owner's manual seems VERY conservative on break in and overall operation. I wonder if this conflicts with your or others' common practices? Maybe not because 540 rpm is not wide open, right? Anyway, here's from the manual:
1ST 50 HOURS BREAK-IN FOR NEW TRACTOR
Don’t operate at full speed [big emphasis]*
Don’t operate faster than necessary*
“Applies to all tractors but especially important for new tractor.”
STARTING: Set throttle lever about halfway [looks a little lower in image]
WARM UP: For five minutes, allow engine to run without any load. Below 32F to 14F, warm up for up to 10 minutes. @ 14F to -4F, warm for 10-15 mins. Below -4, warm for over 15 mins.
P.S.-I looked at the manual, and my tractor is rated at 2,800 rpms too. For 540 pto for a rear mower, etc, it says the rpm should read 2,768. Of course that looks more like the mark is at 2,800 on the tach. Would appreciate your advice as I break in this tractor:
For loader work I have been using low range and hitting a pile of dirt or mulch at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm. Then I carry the material away at 2,000-2,300 rpm. Sounds like I could easily bump that up to 2,800 rpm if desired and it would be well below the wide-open Kubota warns about.
While I may not be helping the tractor babying it, I have probably failed to warm up for 5 minutes each time! I don't generally do any work before that but have been a bit impatient. I do wonder when/if I should open the tractor wide to help seat everything?
sounds like you are on the right track. yes you could easily bump those RPM'S up a tad. the tractor will like it! engine will burn cleaner and perform much better. only time I run mine lower than 540 mark is when I'm trying to reduce noise for my neighbors but even then I'm running at 2000 rpm
@@daveknowshow Thanks, Dave. I have since been bushhogging at the rated rpms, but trying to take smaller bites during break in!
@@RichardGilbert2727 thats a good idea.
Good to see you back Dave! Good information to know. Later
thanks for dropping by always good to hear from you. hope you are doing well my friend.
Always look forward to seeing your video's. Take care my friend. Later
Great video Dave. I have the same tractor you have, L2800-HST (2008 model) and a problem since day one is a jerky 3 point lifting a heavy implement like an auger out of a hole or a heavy six blade tiller. Lowering anything is smooth, problem is only when lifting. Kubota service manager said I need to upgrade to a stronger pump since they put "cheaper" pumps in the smaller units. $1200 so I've just put up with it. The adjustment knob below the seat doesn't seem to help. Btw have a new subscriber today. Thanks!
yes this model and a dew others have a jerky three point. I have seen some folks claim they fixed it. not sure I believe that. also not sure I believe the pump is the issue. flow and pressure is plenty in fact that is the issue. the flow and pressure is to much which causes the jerky three point. some have installed a variable valve in line that they claim fixes that issue. I ordered one myself and its been sitting here in the box unopened for over a year now. I will say lower RPM's will help smooth it out a lot. and going from what ever position its at to all the way up fast helps as well. its when you try to lift a little at a time that it gets violently jerky. I been thinking about building an orifice to install in line and restrict the flow at the three point cylinder to see if that helps. if I do I will make a video showing the mod. other than that these L2800 tractors are great tractors and seem to hold up very well. I have over 700 hours on mine.
Thanks for the quick reply. Learn a lot from your vids.
Dave, glad to see your ok
thanks Larry yes I'm still alive. some days I wonder how that is possible as bad as I feel but other days I feel pretty good.
Great information, thanks for posting
thanks for dropping by and for leaving a comment. its great seeing you again!
Thanks a lot, Dave!
thanks for stopping by the channel
Hey bro, Welcome back! We have been wondering what the hell happened to you! Great content! Always learn something from your videos. 🚜🚜🚜👍🏻✌🏻️
thanks Alan I'm still alive. hopefully I can get a few videos out now that the weather is getting better. between cold and now rain its been hard to get any time on the tractor.
Encouraged me to look up my rated RPM. Thanks. Copying my owners manual over to my phone for bedtime reading. 🙂👍
yes the owners manual is a nice bed time read. I learn a thing or two reading at night like that. then I sleep on it and by the next day I'm ready to get out and apply what I learned or grease that fitting I knew nothing about. lol ha ha
My MX5100 HST has a diamond mark on the RPM gauge. The dealer told me that was the optimum RPMs. to run the tractor.
that MX5100 is a beast of a machine! I borrowed my neighbors for a few days and pushed over some trees. it was a bit big to operate in close quarters but man was that machine a power house ! he wants me to trade him mine for his. I must admit I been considering it.
Yeah Dave, I bought mine brand new about 6 years ago. Its been a great running tractor. The front loader comes off really easy. So that might help you out with the size of it.
But it is nice to know you have the power if you need it. If you could use a bigger machine I would definitely think hard about it.
@@jsavoy1 yes indeed I'm seriously considering it. right now that machine is in florida at his brothers property. but once he has it back I will sure consider it. its a nice machine and has a backhoe as well so I wont be losing any functions mine has.
Great video! I love the information you provide. What tractor forum are you a part of on Facebook? Have a great day!
I monitor most all the tractor forums on facebook. I dont closely watch them like I use to. things are so crazy here looking after my mother who has dementia its not easy to get other things done. i'm in most of the kubota tractor groups, the john deere 55 series group, the compact tractor group, Learning my tractor group, and a few others. it use to be just a few groups now its really to many to be in all of them.
Hi Dave, I’ve got a Kubota L3130 bought new in 2003. The operators manual doesn’t have a “Rated Revolution “ listed. The only mention of RPM is under PTO Power which is 25.5 @ 2700 RPM. Mine is a manual transmission but there’s no listing for GST or HST either.
I’ve always drove around just using the gas pedal and increasing the engine speed lever for loader work or rear PTO. Is this not the right way to operate?
It doesn’t seem right to me to transit or do lightweight jobs at that high of an engine speed.
Glad to see you again Bro.
you should be fine operating just as you are for the main reason being yours is a gear drive tranny and came factory with a throttle peddle as well as a throttle lever. your hydraulics are only used when the loader, three point lift or hydraulic steering if its equipped with hydraulic steering. the only heat build up for your tractor is when one of those functions are used. the rest of the time the fluid is simply free flowing through the system and back to tank. this is what I miss about my old gear drive tractor. that and the fact the gear drive had a much more torque in low gear than anything I could ever get out this HST. if you start using your tractor to run a hydraulic log splitter for example then by all means run the RPM up with the lever and hold it there at 540 or above.
Thanks Dave
your welcome my friend and I just looked up your tractor engine rated RPM on tractor data dot com its listed as 2700rpm
Thanks again Dave, I’ll write that down on my manual. God Bless
Rpms does very little for PRESSURE. It's all about flow volume.
actually I was surprised at the increase in pressure when measuring it at low idle and at the rated RPM. it also does affect flow rate..
Zero turn mowers are designed to run the engine at full throttle. Speed is then controlled by the hydraulic pumps. I set my fixed throttle on my Mahindra when bush hogging the pasture and set for 540
that's how I do mine as well. yes those hydraulic pumps need the speed to insure proper flow rates and pressures. wish I had a zero turn mower. they are super fast to cut with.
Dave do you have a video gradeing a gravel drive way. Thanks
yes a couple of them just look under my page and select all videos or google gravel driveways daveknowshow and you will see them
Really knowledgeable person keep up the good videos
thank you I hope I can keep making them. I have a lot to share about tractors.
My Masey says 540 and it's noted on the gauge, which is the beginning to the Green Zone. 540 is also on the lever.
excellent! you should be in great shape!
tractor chat. and love the shirt. i loved eating at country cookin
I know you do. we to much a like brother.
Great to see you back in the seat. I agree with starting at low idle, but I bought a reprint manual for one of my older tractor's it's a 1958 and that says to start at half throttle. Wierd but I'm assuming it has something to do with air flow because even though it's diesel it has a butterfly on the intake.
Also great information and probably often not thought of with the hydro transmissions. Thankyou sir! Ad·www.agkits.com/tractors
Case 430 Tractor Operators Manual
great to be back in the seat again been a rainy spring here. just nasty and no good weather for tractor work or videos.
Bill, I am curious, where did you get a reprint of your manual? I would be curious to see my 1962 Case 430 manual and see what they say. I only have a shop manual (short version). Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.jensales.com/content/ppp/case-tractor-operators-manual-ca-o-430-530.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjn-8-7zLriAhUNvKwKHZogDrAQFjACegQIBxAO&usg=AOvVaw1PenhxBgga891WtpQHbqkO. Here is one link I found. I don't know if we can post links here, if we can't I will redo it on your channel or to your email. Good luck Joe and if I can help more just let me know.Ad·www.agkits.com/tractors
Case 430 Tractor Operators Manual.
Also that the DPF filter needs higher RPMs to keep it clean.
exactly 100% correct!
Thanks Dave!
thanks for dropping by John hope you having a great memorial day weekend!
Great video buddy! Good to see you!
thanks man I was just thinking of you the other day. had your shirt on people asking me what the heck is this O&D life? lol
Good info Dave!
thanks brother appreciate you stopping by.
on some tractors that recommended rpm is marked on the tach.
yes you are 100% correct. what I dont understand is why so many tend to ignore it and put around at low RPM'S making the tractor engine load up and not burn as clean. I can tell you when I change my oil its never black as coal and smelling burnt like so many I hear about. I can only figure that is because I run mine at the upper end of the rated RPM range.
Very interesting subject and important
l need some tractor seat time also. Along with all the farmers around here, if it would dry up.
Looks to me like HP should be rated at 540 rpm speed of PTO ?
yes been raining here all spring just been nasty a real mess. the HP is also measured at the 540 mark at the pto which is why typically the pto hp and the tractor hp are two different numbers. its even more wide a gap on these HST tractors, but over all pretty much all the specs on these tractors are calculated at the publish engine RPM rating. this includes the flow rate and pressure of the hydraulic pump. the main point to the video and I likely should have said it towards the end is if you don't know your tractors rated rpm then staying at or around the 540 mark is a safe place to be. hope you are both doing well.
My question pretains to a power shuttle. I have a LS MT5.73 (73 hp) with a 20 speed transmission. Start up rpm is 1,000 RPM. So, do I use my hand throttle to set the minimum level say like 540 RPM rate then use the FOOT throttle to "move" the tractor? it has DPF but no DEF tank. I don't want to lug the engine thus pre maturely clogging the filter and extra regens.
I would look in the owners manual under specifications > engine > rated RPM and that is where I would run the machine throttle control unless when running a pto powered implement requires a slight reduction in RPM'S. however keep in mind gear drive tractors can be more forgiving when it comes to RPM range as compared to say a HST drive. your owners manual will likely specify the minimum recommended RPM for general operation in respect to DPF health. I like to run a minimum of 540 at the pto which equates to around 2450 RPM at the tractor engine to get 540 at the pto. some larger tractors adjust automatically when the pto is engaged. they have no indication on the dash as to where 540 relates to tractor engine RPM. hope this helps.
Dave! How you been? Thanks for the shoutouts brother!
holding on the best I can in all this heat. today was nice weather for a change. hope you are doing well.
Good video Dave. New subscriber. Looked in my Mahindra 4540 manual and it says rated speed 2300 high idle 2500, low ldle 750. Not sure why but it's interesting! Lol
so this means the rated speed is the RPM at which all aspects of that tractor are rated. ie lift capacity, flow rate and pressure of hydraulic pump, ground speed in each gear and so on. low idle is the lowest allowable idle speed to start and warm the tractor up. high idle speed is the highest you would ever want to run the tractor. at that speed the tractor fuel economy will suffer but it will likely run at the high idle speed if it has dpf and goes into a regen cycle. that if it auto idles when it goes into regen mode. if its not auto idle then a light will come on indicating you need to run the RPM up until the light goes out or the RPM of regen is met. Mahindra makes a great tractor! I'm sure you are enjoying it.
@@daveknowshow thanks for the in depth reply, I got the new tier 4 CRD motor that doesn't have the whole DEF regen thing! From what I understand about that I'm glad I dont
When I want fine control - - say I'm placing a log that weighs a few hundred pounds on my splitter, I drop all the way to the lowest RPM and I get a much smoother control. No herky jerky. Yah, I know I'm choking off the hydro flow. That's what I want to do.
you also use a flow diverter control valve that diverts part of the fluid back to tank. this keeps the main pump spinning where it needs to be and simply redirects the fluid as needed to create a softer adjustment. my tractor is famous for a jerky three point lift so I installed one to help smooth it out
@@daveknowshow Gotta look into that
Every engine - car, lawn mower, or tractor needs to be cranked at the lowest rpm it will crank at and idled until the oil temperature has thinned to provide full lubrication. Five to ten minutes warming will prolong the life of what ever you got. Maybe you use the new 5w-40 oils that are suppose to let er' rip. Take a short break. On cold mornings I won't leave my driveway till i can feel a bit of heat flowing in my van's vents. I learned this by having low water or antifreeze in my radiator system. I also saw buyers at impound sales crank up cars for sale - floor board them immediately, and blow the engine. My L39GST may outlive me. Play it safe!
of course I think most people do allow a warm up period before taking off. however some model tractors call for starting at mid RPM range. you must read your manual and go by that.
@@daveknowshow - So? who has the manual when they fire it up. Only engine mechanics know how thick and cold oil damages metal bearings and cuts engine life by operating without proper lubrication. Mechanics love those rebuild jobs.
@@jimhiatt5279 I'm no engine mechanic myself but I know improper oil specs for the climate your in can be very hard on an engine as well. these charts are in the manual and I as try to state in these videos for people to check their manual. important stuff in there. the guy I bought my tractor from used the wrong oil in it 15w40 which was not good for this tractor in our winter climate even as mild as our winters are. he read to use 15w40 on the internet forum and just used it rather than reading the manual. you could hear the engine screaming for oil when you started her up in the snowy cold conditions. 10w40 made a huge difference. allowing the tractor to warm up makes a huge difference also which I already covered tractor warm up in a previous video. with all that said this information is sure worth speaking about again. thanks for bringing it up so others can read it here and be aware. I'm sure it will help a lot of folks and just maybe they will break open the owners manual, some good information in there. again thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@daveknowshow. I bought my L39TLB online and valves noise is some time noisy as hello dolly, Diesel engines are noisy but do not send a message of being happy about it. It will dig and move dirt as fast as my left handed procedures can make it do so at an 1800 rpm rate. It's just math. More RPM = more power equals = easier digging = more engine wear = early failure. It's not a money maker - just a big boy toy. If there is a happy RPM for the least engine wear when digging or other then I would like to know that. PLEASE???
Good to see you good video info
glad you stopped by and thanks for the kind words.
Hey Dave good to see another good video. I do have a question tho. My jd2038r has an auto throttle mode they recommend for loader work and it never gets to the rated rpm unless you are running it pretty hard. Do you think this is a bad deal from jd and should I not use it? I find it very handy especially doing loader work but not handy enough to mess my tractor up. Thanks keep up the good work
if its a gear drive tractor it wont matter as much since the tranny is not using hydraulic pressure and flow from the pump. if its an HST they likely have it tuned in via the on board computer to monitor temperatures and load and adjust RPM's accordingly. some of this technology is fairly new and its anyone's guess just how reliable it will be long term. some of it has been used for years flawlessly. unfortunately I don't have access to a JD certified tech that I can drill questions and concerns at like I can my son who was a certified Kubota repair tech. during his tour of duty with Kubota I had access to lots of inside tech stuff and could ask questions and he could get answers. which in the case of this RPM issue is the only reason I know as much as I know about the importance of the rated RPM and its relation to hydraulic flow. I know that the 540 mark is a low end safe spot and running at or above the 540 mark should be satisfactory for every tractor out here by design they are built to run correctly at the 540 mark. I know that does not answer your question so if I was you I would ask JD how long this technology has been being used and what are the pitfalls if any. sometimes a casual walk to back of the dealership where the repair techs are at can render some answers that are straight from the man who has to fix the thing when it fails. take it all with a grain of salt as sometimes these repair techs are afraid to tell the truth in fear of loosing their job. you have to ask the right questions in the right way. so he gives an honest answer with out risking his job for being honest.
daveknowshow thank dave all this technology is nice but scary lol
Really helpful. Thanks!
glad to help!
2004 New Holland TC33 1800 hrs, rpm went crazy. It's in the shop for gauge cluster, steering hose and cylinder, plus new Tip and Tilt cylinder, I bent. It's going on 5 weeks in shop.
My dig a hole projects are building up. Had a real mind thing figuring out what I should get. Ended up it's a Kubota K008-3 coming next week. Remember this: ruclips.net/video/TtQm34QopN8/видео.html
I'd love to have a Koo8-3
My b26 manual specify to start half throttle wich I don't like so I start it half throttle and at the moment it fire up I throttle back immediately!
yeah I agree, I read that online and thought to myself I'm not sure about that.
I Have a 3023E JD. So I use my Brush Hog mostly ,
So Start my engine at lowest RPM, Then raise it up to ?? What? to kick in my PTO ??? Then raise the RPM's to 23- 2500 RPM's to run the brush Hog?? Then when I finish, do I reverse this process? So to shut down the Brush Hog, do I lower the RPM'S , or do I leave them up high. Or slower lower them down to nothing to stop.the PTO
I do not seem to get this whole process right?? Every time I do this ,I think I am messing up ???? Do you have an easer explanation ?? Daaaaaa😢 my brain is not getting this very well ? SORRY! JUST NEED HELP!
Yes I engage the pto at lower rpm then raise it slowly to the 540 mark. What ever rpm that it. On shut down I lower the rpm down then disengage the pto. On mine I must press the clutch pedal to engage or disengage the pto. Study your owners manual for your specific model machine. I hope this helps. Tim , over at tractor time with Tim is very knowledgeable with jd tractors. You might leave him the question and reference that I sent you to him. This way he will see you asked me but I was not 100 percent sure so sent you there. He will likely personally get you the answer you need. I’m just not real familiar with that model. Pretty sure Tim has that model.
Great video… is it ok to run at full ? I just brought my first tractor a John Deere 3036e.. hello from New Zealand ;)
I would not run at full for the first 100 hours but after that sure, just helps it run cleaner. your fuel mileage may go down slightly at full throttle unless full throttle is the rated RPM set by the manufacturer. keep in mind never run above the 540 pto mark when using the pto. but for loader work, boxblade work and so on yes its safe to run on the high side.
Hi Dave. My mother was bushhogging in high grass for a few hours and then heard a bubbling sound from the front of the tractor so she shut it off and let it cool in the field. she went back a few hours later and moved the tractor under the shed. Now she says it won't crank or do anything when she tries to crank it. Any ideas. Its a Kubota L3010. Thanks so much. Great Videos.
check the pto lever safety switch its likely stuck or a safety switch somewhere. also check the coolant level make sure to clean the front of the radiator. I bet its clogged up. I just hope there is no damage to the engine. I wonder how hot it ran for how long? of course if it cranked to move it back then more likely it's a safety switch somewhere.
Any advice for when my Kubota HST rpms bog down under a loader...like scrape blading my gravel driveway going up hill. I usually back off on the "drive pedal" until rpms come up and then I'll nurse up the rest of the hill.
yes back off the pedal use low range only and put in front wheel assist "4x4" I typically try to go down hill when possible.
Dave I have a Kubota MX5100. From all indication I should be running the cutter around 2500 RPM's. The problem is that the lever on the dash to increase the RPM will not hold higher than about 1200-1500. I can hold it but when I let go it drops back to the 12-1500 range. Is there a way to adjust this lever where I don't have to hold it to increase the RPM's?
yes I believe there is an adjustment for tension on the throttle control shaft. just follow the shaft and you will likely see it. you might also download the online owners manual and WSM if available. you can find many of these free at this website kubotabooks.com hope this helps
I really enjoy your videos Dave. Glad you’re back. I had hoped you were also gonna talk about non-HST tractors like mine. I have an older (1986) JD full size 65hp utility tractor. The 540 rating is 2400 rpm. But it seems like an un-necessary wast of fuel and horsepower to run that thing screaming at 2400 Rom. I normally move around at around 1500-1800 rpm and open it up if I’m into heavy loader, box blade or 6’ rotary cutter. I really don’t know if that’s right. The book says only that the operating range is between 1500 and 2400 rpm. But no details or examples as to what rpm within that range you would use for varying attachments. What do you think?
great question. on a manual drive tractor you have more flexibility. your hydraulics will not over heat unless they are being used heavily doing loader work or a lot of three point up and down or perhaps running a hydraulic log splitter. in those cases I like to be up on the RPM a bit to help cool the hydraulic fluid and maintain adequate hydraulic pressure where needed. when using a box blade, road blade and such typically you are not up and down so much with the three point so a slower RPM can be used. the trouble you run into is a slower RPM results in a slower travel speed at a higher gear. this creates the potential for stalling the tractor and puts more stress on the engine . where as a higher RPM in a lower gear gives the same slow travel speed needed with much more brute strength and not much worry of stalling the tractor motor. this equates to less stress on the engine. as far as PTO powered implements such as brush hogs and what not I like to stay right at the 540 mark even under a load. this helps keep the blade tip speed where it needs to be. maintains momentum to insure no potential stalling hazard as well. this all helps the mower and tractor run more efficiently. most of these gear driven tractors come with a throttle peddle as well as a throttle lever. the throttle peddle is for one main reasons if your locked at a certain RPM with the lever and need a little more go you can mash on the peddle. typically this is used when pulling a wagon of sorts like a hay wagon. the hay wagon does not use the PTO power nor does it use hydraulics so a lower RPM can be set and then throttle up via foot peddle when you encounter an incline and need a bit more power to her up the hill. this is typically when a lower RPM is desired. I would however stay with in the range the manufacturer specifies in all other cases. to low and your straining your tractor as well as slowing the blade rotational speed which governs the cooling system for the engine itself located at the radiator. slower engine speeds mean the water pump is turning slower, the cooling fan is turning slower all while the tractor may very well be under a tremendous load depending on what you are trying to do at a low RPM. that range they give you is how the tractor is designed to run and keep it cool and not stressed PROVIDED you select the correct gear to run in. pulling heavy loads in higher gears at the lower RPM range can equate to over heating and over stressing your tractor. I wanted to include this in the video however the video was running long anyway. I may make a part two and include these thoughts on manual gear drive tractors. I was a huge gear drive tractor fan all my life and never wanted no HST tractor. then one day I ended up getting rid of my JD gear drive tractor and got this Kubota HST. so far I really like this HST and I think it will save on clutch wear in the event someone else drives it that otherwise would likely ride my clutch and destroy it. plus it is handy and quicker than clutching and when working on hillsides much safer. cant get that gear drive tractor back in gear if she pops out and starts rolling fast down hill. lol scary time to be in the tractor seat! yeehaw and hang on brother! always good hearing from folks with good questions such as yours. I hope I explained things in a way you can get where I'm coming from.
daveknowshow - thank you Dave. I think I got your drift. It probably would be good for you to do a video in it just to clear up what you mean. Especially for people like me who are pretty new to tractor operation and can’t afford a newer tractor with the HST transmissions.
It occurs to me that sticking a temp gauge on the hydraulic fluid might be enlightening... 🤔
the hydraulic fluid does get very hot and if not for the additives it would likely burn and loose its effectiveness. the cooling action of the flow rate radiator and fan is more to keep it from over heating because its far from cool when it under pressure working. just feel your hydraulic cylinders after long use they get real hot and sometimes you can smell the hydraulic fluid like its cooking.
daveknowshow - Yeah... especially when considering that if you reach the end-of-travel (or overload something) and the pressure relief valve trips, all that power from the engine is only going into heating the hydraulic fluid. If you have a 6 gpm pump, and a relief valve set at 2000 psi, that’s about 5000 watts of heating going into the fluid... 🤔
I have a kubota l2501 that has a 30hp engine de-tuned to 25hp by lowing the rpm to 2400 max rpm.
Not enough rpm, I plan on turning up the rpm.
Dave what is the max rpm on your tractor?
my rated RPM is 2800 your rated RPM is 2200 if I'm not mistaken. not 100% sure seemed like I read the L2501 was 2200 rpm. your 2501 is the same engine and same tractor as my l2800. mine is a 29hp you could get 29hp out of yours. honestly you likely get 29hp out of it from the factory. they just rated it where it is to avoid emissions.
Dave, My control stick for the 4 in 1 bucket on my Kubota MX5100 won't go into float. Any suggestions?
check the manual and make sure that loader came with float position. some did not some came with float on the lower and float on the dump as well. likely just needs cleaning inside the valve body. its a job that needs to be done in a clean controlled well lit area. lots of parts you can easily lose.
@@daveknowshow thanks Dave. Yep the float used to work so I will set up a table and clean. Fingers crossed. Do you use float when box blading?
@@stakwalderbak5331 yes i typically lower the boxblade all the way and let it float.
thanks for the info
always happy to share information
Dave. Where are you from?
I'm in Virginia Chesterfield county but was born and raised in Richmond Va