Here here Mike. Great advice and spot on. This is probably the most frequent thing I see newer tractor owners doing wrong. Personally I like gears and ranges on a tractor, shuttle shift along with it if I can. I also agree that you will be more likely to damage something by under powering the tractor that running it at rated HP RPM’s!
Plowing is full throttle, disking is usually full throttle first pass, as you get close to finished texture you can gear up and throttle back a bit. PTO equipment is what ever speed is required on your tractor to obtain rated PTO speed, on mine it's 1900 RPM.
You are absolutely correct Mike; Diesel engines need to be opened up to prevent carbon build up and prevent the dilution of the engine oil. Diesels need to be under load to maintain operating temperatures and burn all the fuel in the cylinders. If they are not running at load, they will cool down and unburned fuel will get into the engine oil and dilute it. I believe operating temperatures for a diesel are going to be around 200+ degrees, less than a gasoline engines, and can be easily cooled on a 100+ degree summer day. Idling the engine on a hot day could be very bad. One very important thing to keep in mind regarding Rated Engine Speed, especially if you are running a dual speed PTO. My tractor's PTO is a 540/1000 and if I run it at the rated speed (marked on the tachometer), the PTO will be at 540 rpm, but if I go above the rated speed the PTO jumps to 1000 rpm. 1000 rpm would tear apart an average rotary cutter.
I get so "educaturelated" watching/listening to your channel! Btw....I practiced your advice for over 30 years as a tractor owner and peach grower with my '79 JD 2040 gear-drive.
Drive it like you stole it is what my dealer told me. In other videos you touched on how the diesel engine performs at its best when run at the higher rpm range.
Thanks. Always good for someone to talk you thru it. I grew up with manual and understand it. All the talk about HST made me shy away from them. You videos make sense!
I usually run my little 26 hp Kubota wide open after it warms up. I don’t think it hurts the engine and it runs cleaner. These engines have a 100% duty cycle.
I know this is an old comment, but actually most smaller Kubota engines, such as the 26HP ones (D1105 for example), have about an 80% duty cycle. Check out the datasheet on the official Kubota engine website.
My training says: An engine is designed to operate best at a certain RPM and you get best life if the engine is kept at that RPM all the time when its in operation. Run the engine at the best speed for the engine. Select the gear for the best results for the work you are doing. Hydrostatic drives like the valves all the way open. Choose the correct gear. . This all agrees with the way you are saying to do it. . I've been trained for several types of machinery and it all says the same thing. Running at the speed the machine was made to run is the best way to run it.
QUESTION(S) - I run a hydro Kubota B3200 (see TD link at the end of this comment for specs) on my 10 acres. For about the last 20 hours of engine time (I purchased it at 440, it's now at 460), I've been starting it at low throttle, give it a few seconds... then crank it up to about 1600-1800 RPM when simply moving the tractor around, etc. Once I throw a box blade or a NON-PTO-driven implement on the three-point or if I'm doing bucket work, I've been running it in Low around 1800-2000RPM. If I'm running a PTO-driven implement (brush mower, etc), I run it in the "orange" (the recommended orange area/RPM on the tachometer around 2500-2600RPM). Now, after watching this video, It would appear that I've been undercutting my tractor so to speak by not "running it in the orange" (2500-2600RPM) virtually all the time. My question(s) then... 1) Does any of what I described above detrimental to the engine block/hydraulics and 2) Should I be "in the orange" most of, if not all the time? (Even when simply moving the tractor from point A to B) Thanks in advance. www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/5/5955-kubota-b3200.html
Hey Mike, If I'm not mistaken your New Holland TC will have a light on the dash that illuminates, when your pto is turned on rev the tractor up until the green 540 light illuminates. If you rev it up to high I think a red 740 rpm light will light up. We have a TC45da cab that has the pto mark on the tachometer but our older TC45d is like yours with no mark on tach. I will look where ours tachs next time I use it. I'm curious myself
I suppose running at 2400RPM uses a lot more fuel than 1200RPM. It certainly makes less noise. For the first few weeks that I owned my Mahindra, I kept the RPM low to be more efficient and not as loud. Then I got a check-engine light come one. Turns out on the common rail diesel, if it's not run full tilt, the EGR valve will get sooted up and throw errors. Ever since, I tend to run it at the upper end - and my diesel usage shows it.
Thank you for the many great videos and tips that you willing provide us with. I have a 2015 kubota L3301 4x4 tractor. Should I keep it in 4wheel drive all the time? If not then when should I use it and when I should Not use it. Same question for the transmission. It only has Hi and Low gears only.
What's interesting to note is the simple fact that nearly all of these answers are typically in the owner's manual for your farm tractor and/or piece of equipment. Not to mention, there are various other avenues of obtaining such information. It's amazing to me how lazy people have become. If they can't find it "instantly" on the internet, they act helpless. Apparently READING has become a thing of the past, for so many people. It's quite sad really.
This is why I keep the manuals for every piece of equipment I have, or at least jump online and download the manual. Its really nice to just open the manual and lookup the answer to the question. A great example was yesterday afternoon I was mowing my lawn (granted this isn't a huge farm tractor) and the little digital hour meter display started flashing some random words that while you are mowing is a bit difficult to read and figure out. So I stopped the mower so I could read what it said and of course its abbreviated and said something like CL AR FILLR. I had no idea really what was going on thought something was wrong. So I came in the house and looked in the manual and found out it was simply telling me that it was time to clean the air filter....well ok now CL AR FILLR makes sense LOL. It was such a simple solution to have the manual right there to quickly find out what was going on, and while I was at it I read that whole section about what that hour meter/maintenance minder will tell you, low oil, low battery, change oil, etc. Happy to know all those features and the abbreviations that the hour meter/maintenance minder uses so know I know next time something comes up on there what needs done. The manual is the greatest answer to many common questions. Course sometimes you get a weird problem that the manual doesn't mention that a search on the internet can find you an answer or finding a forum online could help too, but I go to my manual first and internet as the last resort. I'm finding having digital copies of the manual on the computer help too as you can do a search on the PDF document to more quickly find what you need many times too.
Great segment! I've been waiting for this info a long time. One thing you didn't mention is the dpf and effects on it in relation to running temps and rpm? I understand it can be very expensive to replace?
Mike you have to go to the Nebraska tractor test. My mp225 a LS tractor will pull a 2 bottom 12-inch idiot traction gear ratio weight and type of ground determines the number of bottom of plows you can pull per horsepower Andy 10 horsepower per bottom on 12 and 14 but you are right on a two bottom 16 it takes br40 horsepower 35 to 40
Mike I just purchased my Kubota hydrostatic tractor. You said that when doing older work to have the pedal pressed all the way down. I don’t understand, I don’t want the tractor to move while I’m trying to pick stuff up with my grapple, so how do I keep my rpm’s up while doing loader work?
How long after startup should you idle before increasing the throttle on a diesel tractor? I usually give it a few seconds (10) to imagine the oil being pumped to the top of the engine and then throttle up to work the hydraulics. Great info on the low gear pedal down, been guilty of running high gear and working the pedal.
My new LS XR4150 manual says to always idle for one minute at 1000 rpm at start up and idle 1000 rpm for one minute before shut down. It is a 3 cylinder turbo diesel. But I don’t think it could hurt to use that procedure with any type of Diesel engine.
I have a 1975 MF 265. It has two different types of PTO settings. One is normal that modern tractors have, but it also has a Ground setting. What implements would require the Ground setting. From what I can tell the PTO will spin at a variable rate based on ground speed. What would the top speed be for something like this?
Lee, I don't know of any new implements that require ground speed. A hay tedder could be used in that setting, but the standard PTO would work as well. It's an option I haven't seen a need for.
You'll find the Tractor Caddy on my website. Here's the link: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/ If you have any other questions, feel free to message me through the "Contact Mike" on the website. Thank you for watching my video and asking about the Tractor Caddy.
Hey Tractor Mike, I ordered my 1st Tractor and I'm wanting to have as much extra hydraulic capability as possible and I'm getting rear remotes with locking detents. My question is will my backhoe run efficiently off one of the normal rear remotes, or would a power beyond feature be much better and cooler?
Harry, I personally prefer a PTO pump for running a backhoe. It's a lot less wear on the tractor to run the PTO versus pumping hydraulic oil. Lots easier to hook up as well.
@@TractorMike Thank you Sir, But the backhoe I ordered with the tractor is designed to run off the rear hydraulics. So I was curious if the rear remotes we're as good or the same as a power beyond port?
@@TractorMike I just re read your answer. So you're saying that there is a PTO driven pump that I could plug into and then just slide the pump on and off the PTO shaft along with the backhoe.
Yeah, that's an option on many backhoes, and the way we used to sell them at the dealership where I worked. It'll cost about what it costs to replace the hydraulic pump on the tractor if it fails while you're using the remotes.
Buy a different tractor. A tractor that doesnt have the PTO power you need when running at the rated speed you really cannot fix easily. You could have the engine bored and heads ported and for diesels sometimes the pump injector volume can be turned up. But in the end you probably need more tractor.
The questions asked indicate that the people asking the questions have absolutely no foundational understanding of the nature of equipment, horsepower, torque, and traction. The answers to these questions are determined by feel, sound, conditions, results, and experience. Not everyone who can afford a tractor should own and operate a tractor for their safety and the safety of others.
You don't need to have the pedal all the way down on your hydro. If that were the case it would not be infinitely variable. This is the second video where Mike says this and if that were the case it would be in owners and service manuals. He doesn't like hydro's.
So does the 540 rpm PTO speed only occur at the rated engine speed? On my JD I’m not sure what the PTO rpm is at the lower eco PTO engine setting. Thanks a lot! I’m fabricating a pump pulley so I’m trying to figure out the right drive ratio and keep my full power rating. 31HP at the PTO supposedly and the pump at full power needs 1250 rpm.
PTO rated engine speed is the RPM you need to be at to get the horsepower that the tractor is rated for. It sounds like your tractor has an economy PTO, which is like an overdrive that spins the PTO faster when you don't need horsepower to you can throttle down and save fuel. If you're out clipping seed heads in the late summer in the pasture and the vegetation is sparse, you need the RPM's but it won't require as much horsepower to drive. So, you can shift into Eco PTO and throttle down. That's the only time you want to use it, don't factor it into the equation of any implement that requires the full tractor horsepower. To get your 31 hp, you need to be running the tractor at PTO rated engine speed. I hope that all makes sense.
I always thought I was making it easier on my tractor by not going to (or beyond) the PTO engine speed. Thanks for showing me the correct speed!
Here here Mike. Great advice and spot on. This is probably the most frequent thing I see newer tractor owners doing wrong.
Personally I like gears and ranges on a tractor, shuttle shift along with it if I can.
I also agree that you will be more likely to damage something by under powering the tractor that running it at rated HP RPM’s!
Plowing is full throttle, disking is usually full throttle first pass, as you get close to finished texture you can gear up and throttle back a bit. PTO equipment is what ever speed is required on your tractor to obtain rated PTO speed, on mine it's 1900 RPM.
Anytime you use the handheld mic, it reminds me of The Price is Right.
Excellent educational video. Good information on what causes 'whine'...
Michael from Canada
You are absolutely correct Mike; Diesel engines need to be opened up to prevent carbon build up and prevent the dilution of the engine oil. Diesels need to be under load to maintain operating temperatures and burn all the fuel in the cylinders. If they are not running at load, they will cool down and unburned fuel will get into the engine oil and dilute it. I believe operating temperatures for a diesel are going to be around 200+ degrees, less than a gasoline engines, and can be easily cooled on a 100+ degree summer day. Idling the engine on a hot day could be very bad.
One very important thing to keep in mind regarding Rated Engine Speed, especially if you are running a dual speed PTO. My tractor's PTO is a 540/1000 and if I run it at the rated speed (marked on the tachometer), the PTO will be at 540 rpm, but if I go above the rated speed the PTO jumps to 1000 rpm. 1000 rpm would tear apart an average rotary cutter.
Thanks Mike. Very informative. I have been running my tractor at about two-thirds of it's engine rated RPMs. Not anymore.
I get so "educaturelated" watching/listening to your channel! Btw....I practiced your advice for over 30 years as a tractor owner and peach grower with my '79 JD 2040 gear-drive.
Drive it like you stole it is what my dealer told me. In other videos you touched on how the diesel engine performs at its best when run at the higher rpm range.
Always great instructions. Great video Mike.
Thanks Mike. You make very practical, informative videos that are such a help to those of us new to operating a tractor.
Rule of thumb that I was taught from old timers for a plow is, 1 hp per inch per bottom multiplied by how many bottoms.
Same here.
Thanks. Always good for someone to talk you thru it. I grew up with manual and understand it. All the talk about HST made me shy away from them.
You videos make sense!
Good video with helpful information. I inherited my tractor from my Dad and sure don't know where the manuals are. Tried getting them with no luck.
I usually run my little 26 hp Kubota wide open after it warms up. I don’t think it hurts the engine and it runs cleaner. These engines have a 100% duty cycle.
I know this is an old comment, but actually most smaller Kubota engines, such as the 26HP ones (D1105 for example), have about an 80% duty cycle.
Check out the datasheet on the official Kubota engine website.
My training says: An engine is designed to operate best at a certain RPM and you get best life if the engine is kept at that RPM all the time when its in operation.
Run the engine at the best speed for the engine. Select the gear for the best results for the work you are doing.
Hydrostatic drives like the valves all the way open. Choose the correct gear.
.
This all agrees with the way you are saying to do it.
.
I've been trained for several types of machinery and it all says the same thing. Running at the speed the machine was made to run is the best way to run it.
Just wanted to add, you're spot on with your info Mike. 👍
QUESTION(S) - I run a hydro Kubota B3200 (see TD link at the end of this comment for specs) on my 10 acres.
For about the last 20 hours of engine time (I purchased it at 440, it's now at 460), I've been starting it at low throttle, give it a few seconds... then crank it up to about 1600-1800 RPM when simply moving the tractor around, etc. Once I throw a box blade or a NON-PTO-driven implement on the three-point or if I'm doing bucket work, I've been running it in Low around 1800-2000RPM. If I'm running a PTO-driven implement (brush mower, etc), I run it in the "orange" (the recommended orange area/RPM on the tachometer around 2500-2600RPM).
Now, after watching this video, It would appear that I've been undercutting my tractor so to speak by not "running it in the orange" (2500-2600RPM) virtually all the time. My question(s) then... 1) Does any of what I described above detrimental to the engine block/hydraulics and 2) Should I be "in the orange" most of, if not all the time? (Even when simply moving the tractor from point A to B)
Thanks in advance.
www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/5/5955-kubota-b3200.html
Great video Mike! So informative.
Hey Mike, If I'm not mistaken your New Holland TC will have a light on the dash that illuminates, when your pto is turned on rev the tractor up until the green 540 light illuminates. If you rev it up to high I think a red 740 rpm light will light up. We have a TC45da cab that has the pto mark on the tachometer but our older TC45d is like yours with no mark on tach. I will look where ours tachs next time I use it. I'm curious myself
Thanks Mike - always informative. take care
Great Advice!!!
And what size is the plows, 12",14" or 16 "
I suppose running at 2400RPM uses a lot more fuel than 1200RPM. It certainly makes less noise. For the first few weeks that I owned my Mahindra, I kept the RPM low to be more efficient and not as loud. Then I got a check-engine light come one. Turns out on the common rail diesel, if it's not run full tilt, the EGR valve will get sooted up and throw errors. Ever since, I tend to run it at the upper end - and my diesel usage shows it.
Thank you for the many great videos and tips that you willing provide us with. I have a 2015 kubota L3301 4x4 tractor. Should I keep it in 4wheel drive all the time? If not then when should I use it and when I should Not use it. Same question for the transmission. It only has Hi and Low gears only.
My manual for my SAME Solaris 45 explicitly tells you not to haul Tilling attachments in High ratio (3) and keep that for mostly driving.
What's interesting to note is the simple fact that nearly all of these answers are typically in the owner's manual for your farm tractor and/or piece of equipment. Not to mention, there are various other avenues of obtaining such information. It's amazing to me how lazy people have become. If they can't find it "instantly" on the internet, they act helpless. Apparently READING has become a thing of the past, for so many people. It's quite sad really.
BaCk iN My DaY
Turbo Diesel so true... people just want to be spoon fed the info.
This is why I keep the manuals for every piece of equipment I have, or at least jump online and download the manual. Its really nice to just open the manual and lookup the answer to the question. A great example was yesterday afternoon I was mowing my lawn (granted this isn't a huge farm tractor) and the little digital hour meter display started flashing some random words that while you are mowing is a bit difficult to read and figure out. So I stopped the mower so I could read what it said and of course its abbreviated and said something like CL AR FILLR. I had no idea really what was going on thought something was wrong. So I came in the house and looked in the manual and found out it was simply telling me that it was time to clean the air filter....well ok now CL AR FILLR makes sense LOL. It was such a simple solution to have the manual right there to quickly find out what was going on, and while I was at it I read that whole section about what that hour meter/maintenance minder will tell you, low oil, low battery, change oil, etc. Happy to know all those features and the abbreviations that the hour meter/maintenance minder uses so know I know next time something comes up on there what needs done.
The manual is the greatest answer to many common questions. Course sometimes you get a weird problem that the manual doesn't mention that a search on the internet can find you an answer or finding a forum online could help too, but I go to my manual first and internet as the last resort. I'm finding having digital copies of the manual on the computer help too as you can do a search on the PDF document to more quickly find what you need many times too.
Good info, Mike.
How about you get the manual for the implement you're using... That'll tell you the speed you need to operate it at...
Great segment! I've been waiting for this info a long time.
One thing you didn't mention is the dpf and effects on it in relation to running temps and rpm?
I understand it can be very expensive to replace?
Mike you have to go to the Nebraska tractor test. My mp225 a LS tractor will pull a 2 bottom 12-inch idiot traction gear ratio weight and type of ground determines the number of bottom of plows you can pull per horsepower Andy 10 horsepower per bottom on 12 and 14 but you are right on a two bottom 16 it takes br40 horsepower 35 to 40
Good info Mike 👍
Reply to Brad not Landa
My White 2-60 can pull a 3 bottom REALLY DEEP with no issue. 4WD and 56 PTO horsepower. 1976.
Mike I just purchased my Kubota hydrostatic tractor. You said that when doing older work to have the pedal pressed all the way down. I don’t understand, I don’t want the tractor to move while I’m trying to pick stuff up with my grapple, so how do I keep my rpm’s up while doing loader work?
I run my kubota b2601 at full throttle medium gear for most things
How long after startup should you idle before increasing the throttle on a diesel tractor? I usually give it a few seconds (10) to imagine the oil being pumped to the top of the engine and then throttle up to work the hydraulics. Great info on the low gear pedal down, been guilty of running high gear and working the pedal.
My new LS XR4150 manual says to always idle for one minute at 1000 rpm at start up and idle 1000 rpm for one minute before shut down. It is a 3 cylinder turbo diesel. But I don’t think it could hurt to use that procedure with any type of Diesel engine.
What advice do you have for those of us who own a tractor without a tach? Tim @ Cliffside Acres
Is that a tool box mounted horizontally between the ROPS risers behind you in this video. If so, please tell us more.
It's a Tractor Caddy. Available here: asktractormike.com/products-for-sale/labor-saving-devices/.
My tractor doesn't have hour meter/PTO speed depending on what I am using or pulling the throttle is half open to wide open
I have a 1975 MF 265. It has two different types of PTO settings. One is normal that modern tractors have, but it also has a Ground setting. What implements would require the Ground setting. From what I can tell the PTO will spin at a variable rate based on ground speed. What would the top speed be for something like this?
Lee, I don't know of any new implements that require ground speed. A hay tedder could be used in that setting, but the standard PTO would work as well. It's an option I haven't seen a need for.
@@TractorMike Thanks Mike for the quick reply. Love your channel and thanks for the informative videos.
I would think running the tractor at full throttle or rated engine speed when working it would be best anyways to keep it running cooler?
Where did you get that roll bar basket?
You'll find the Tractor Caddy on my website. Here's the link: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/ If you have any other questions, feel free to message me through the "Contact Mike" on the website. Thank you for watching my video and asking about the Tractor Caddy.
Does 2600 rpm seem kind of high for engine speed rating on a 55 hp turbo tractor?
Hey Tractor Mike,
I ordered my 1st Tractor and I'm wanting to have as much extra hydraulic capability as possible and I'm getting rear remotes with locking detents. My question is will my backhoe run efficiently off one of the normal rear remotes, or would a power beyond feature be much better and cooler?
Harry, I personally prefer a PTO pump for running a backhoe. It's a lot less wear on the tractor to run the PTO versus pumping hydraulic oil. Lots easier to hook up as well.
@@TractorMike Thank you Sir,
But the backhoe I ordered with the tractor is designed to run off the rear hydraulics.
So I was curious if the rear remotes we're as good or the same as a power beyond port?
@@TractorMike I just re read your answer.
So you're saying that there is a PTO driven pump that I could plug into and then just slide the pump on and off the PTO shaft along with the backhoe.
Yeah, that's an option on many backhoes, and the way we used to sell them at the dealership where I worked. It'll cost about what it costs to replace the hydraulic pump on the tractor if it fails while you're using the remotes.
Might want to keep in mind, my owners manual says not to use full power for the first 50 hours.
Hello sir...could you please,How can we increase the PTO hp at 540 rotation rpm especially mf. 240
Buy a different tractor. A tractor that doesnt have the PTO power you need when running at the rated speed you really cannot fix easily. You could have the engine bored and heads ported and for diesels sometimes the pump injector volume can be turned up. But in the end you probably need more tractor.
The questions asked indicate that the people asking the questions have absolutely no foundational understanding of the nature of equipment, horsepower, torque, and traction. The answers to these questions are determined by feel, sound, conditions, results, and experience. Not everyone who can afford a tractor should own and operate a tractor for their safety and the safety of others.
But everyone has to start somewhere.
The struggle is when I’m scraping my road with the hydro tranny and can’t go pedal down because that’s too much speed.
You don't need to have the pedal all the way down on your hydro. If that were the case it would not be infinitely variable. This is the second video where Mike says this and if that were the case it would be in owners and service manuals. He doesn't like hydro's.
Were you in a hurry? Thanks for the video.
So does the 540 rpm PTO speed only occur at the rated engine speed? On my JD I’m not sure what the PTO rpm is at the lower eco PTO engine setting. Thanks a lot!
I’m fabricating a pump pulley so I’m trying to figure out the right drive ratio and keep my full power rating. 31HP at the PTO supposedly and the pump at full power needs 1250 rpm.
PTO rated engine speed is the RPM you need to be at to get the horsepower that the tractor is rated for. It sounds like your tractor has an economy PTO, which is like an overdrive that spins the PTO faster when you don't need horsepower to you can throttle down and save fuel. If you're out clipping seed heads in the late summer in the pasture and the vegetation is sparse, you need the RPM's but it won't require as much horsepower to drive. So, you can shift into Eco PTO and throttle down. That's the only time you want to use it, don't factor it into the equation of any implement that requires the full tractor horsepower. To get your 31 hp, you need to be running the tractor at PTO rated engine speed. I hope that all makes sense.
@@TractorMike that does make sense. Thank you!
1 st ........👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Great info !!!
Why go fast, Its playtime when I do they lane , I can bleed that out for 2.5 hours lol