Good old days I miss it. A lot. If you're young enjoy everyday and surf as much as you can. These next Couple years probably be my last. Surfing gave me as a kid the best outlet to enjoy my days every day. True freedom. Time is short enjoy the ride. Alooooooooha
Niiiiice !! I'm almost 70. Been dead 3 x. Love everyday. The local spot still "hates on me "....40 years later. I'm sharing this story with everyone !! Thanks again
I wandered into a surf shop in Launceston 1988 looked at all the boards. I had been riding a wave ski no body liked me so I thought I better get a surfboard. All the boards looked pretty average thinking back I didn’t know shit. But there was a burning spears sitting on its own in the corner. It belonged 2 Peter drouwn who at the time was studying at the Maratime college in George Town. The shop owner said that’s Peter drouwns board he’s a surfing legend. Well that was good enough for me. My girlfriend at the time brought it for me for my 23rd birthday. It was a 6’6 deep channel swallow tail. Knowing what I know now and thinking back compared 2 the other boards it was a work of art. I was involved in many sports at the time. If I hadn’t seen that board I might not ever have surfed. Thanks Alan Byrne and Peter drouwn. You changed my life forever.
My first board was an Allan Byrne 6'8". How I wish I still had that board now, and not because of this doco, just because I made so many memories with it. Cheers Allan 🙏
Hamish Graham was making burning spears in California my friends and I got some .best boards especially in good waves. A.B. WAS A LEGEND HERE TOO.I remember seeing him at pipe on ABC sports
AB was a great man and I am so glad this movie is around so he will never be forgotten. Beers down and the factory and training with all the crew, some great memories
One of the greatest friend's I've ever known. Period. Byrnesey shaped my blades for 25 plus year's. Never made a dud & he loved my commitment to the glide & lifestyle. My greatest memory is of sharing waves together & sitting around the family table planning tomorrow's escapades. AB was a true legend & mate, miss you my friend. Shout to the clan, DD, Scardy, Colonel, Sherwack, Stocksy, Littlewood, Smitty, Catty, Gringo, Shredder ... We're better humans for having known him. Shout out to Jane & Dale you guy's must be sooo proud. Lotsa Love to the family.
Best surf video I've seen in a long time, this Man speaks the truth. I grew, up in the same era in SoCal, contests were BS, we headed up and down the coast, for me there was no need to fly for a long time. My buddy taught me how to "skurf", which we called 'Free Boarding' behind a rental ski boat on Lake Mojave on the Colorado River in 1978. We also did a bit outside Newport Harbor down a little outside of Scotchman's Cove, cruised on some big south swells outside of Newport Harbor once, but never got serious like Laird and Da Boyz. We were lucky as hell to live in that era, and like all Old Dawgs, see what 'Surfing' has become...........incredible skills and talent and equipment, but not much soul. To all the Soul Surfers still out there, I say "Enjoy It While You Can". Thanks so much for posting this bit, it brought tears and laughs, Aloha.
How awesome would it have been to be one of the early surfers, and to actually travel around and discover a surf spot and be the first to surf it?? No crowds, no pressure, just pure enjoyment !! It must suck for those guys to see the ridiculous crowds at every decent surf spot these days? I started surfing quite late in life - at 27, after playing other sports. Soon surfing was the priority. When I was made redundant from my government job in 1998 at 37, I vowed to never work in another job that would stop me from surfing in the morning - if it was good. In 2005 I became an arvo shift bus driver, so my mornings were always free. The perfect surfing job!! I retired from that job in 2021 after a knee replacement. My rehab was mainly to get my left knee to bend quick enough to surf again, and I've been surfing with no problems. 61 this year, and may need to work again, but I'll still make sure any job won't stop me surfing.
Paddled out from Talle creek on a massive Burliegh swell around 25 years ago. Not real sure if I should have been there. Got out somehow and realised it was fricken massive. Waves were peaking probably 100m east of Sharkies. I was thinking about how I was getting in . Come across Al Byrne on my trip north., had a brief chat until a makkin set showed up. I head for Surfers while Al head for Cooly . Last I saw he was bottom turning into seriously heavy wave , didn't see him again . I was so happy to feel the sand at north burliegh. I wish I could have been that calm and confident.
Watching this brought a smile and a sad/sweet nostalgia... turn 60 this year and still riding shortboards. SW Western Australia, I recall when you could rock up at premier breaks and there would be no-one or a just a couple of guys. So blessed...
So good to see an accurate and well produced Kiwi surfing history, from the primary source. Saw Al and Kevin at the Mount in '77, my last year in school - it was like seeing John Wayne and Charlton Heston in a car together. Ti Trees in '82 still wan't crowded, nor the Pass or Lennox, and in NZ you could still camp at Blacks, or Whale Bay and surf empty waves mid-week. Happy to surf those times! Vale legend, A.B. and well done filmmaker for documenting his philosophy for us all to hear (great song choices BTW - reflect the times).
Great story. AB was a great human. I remember meeting him and hearing about the times in Taranaki when they used to surf, ski and white water raft all in the same day. He shaped me a board but I always regret not going in with him when he shaped it like he offered. I cherish it to this day and now my son surfs it. Your spirit lives on AB
Can you confirm that it is mount Taranaki on the cover? Spent some time in Opunaki in the early 90’s and got a similar photo apart from the Morris traveler it was a Toyota corrola.
Awesome bro saw you way back in 1981 I think or maybe 1979 goldcoast burly .we where young kiwis staying at Rudd park living off meat pies and beers .gr8 dayz
I had the privilege of holding a few blanks for Allan while he shaped on Oahu courtesy of Darrick . This was just as the movie "In God's Hands" was finalizing editing. He listened as I revealed some concepts and thoughts. It was a great moment for me. He was a great surfer and shaper. Glad I got to hang out for a few ticks of the clock. Aloha ~
Fantastic shaper, wonderful human being,. I got a brand new Hot Stuff shaped by Al in the early 90's from the Hot Stuff shop at North Burleigh, when it was still there. Had some amazing sessions on that board, loved that brand new board feeling.
Nice, I pulled a 6’8” “Byrne” off the lightly used rack in the early 90’s and that board had the rocker and enough foam under chest for sick late reef drops. Always thought he was from Hawaii. Great footage (including the wakeboard) and tribute to a legend.
AB miss you mate.. A.B was my shaper for nearly 10 yrs him and N.P sr still remember the funny stories in the currumbin hot stuff factory and his factory in currumbin..gone but never forgotten mate
Excellent trailer - looking forward to seeing more! I was surfing with a bunch of mates at Mangamanu on the East coast of the South Island in the 1970s - a guy showed up and asked if he could stay in our tent ... turned out to be Alan Byrne. The swell was head high with sets 2 m plus - Alan was taking off 50 m inside anyone else and flying across faces that no-one else was close to making - the speed he got was unlike anything I'd seen. He was unassuming and friendly although his extraordinary ability set him apart. He shaped a board for me - rode it for many years although it was capable of far more than the rider was. I loaned it to some dude who dropped in on a close out and broke it in half.
Thank you for a really good surfing film and sharing your story with fellow surfers. I started surfing in 1960 borrowing boards from anyone prepared to lend me theirs. I relate to the old long boards and the changes over the decades. Also your music choices are most enjoyable. Great story, great family. One question, are you still in Queensland. I'm coming to Queensland this year from South Africa and would like to just sit and chat with you and talk surfing and life. If you wouldn't mind.
Yep, the Hawaiians threw a tantrum and AB was robbed. No whining from AB though, he took it with grace and humility as he always did. NZ's greatest ever surfer and a good example for anyone who wants an example of a life well lived.
Allen will always be one of the best. My question is did he still do dairy products ? I go what I call vegetarian yet if I revert back to how I was raised so be it . I never do dairy products though. Beef burrito is my weakness. He mentioned diet . That is why I bring it up. In the context of the video people could assume it all “genetic” . I know no answer will come to answer everyones beliefs. Yet it is important to understand things in context. He probably was a dairy consumer raised to believe he was vegetarian . Death waits for us all .
In high school I rode a byrne. Great board, I rode till it was toast. Cant remember where it ended up. Time can be painful when memories echo joyful feelings long ago. A pain that subsides as time goes and we realize how special those times were and how wonderful those feelings are. Peace and love, great flick, great people!!
The early images of 60’s Surfing captured the air of discovery back then but the ongoing Soul Surfer monologue was very self-serving. Spiritual people want others to see the Truth for themselves not impress you with how spiritual they are. People with athletic genetics can & do remain active in a sport but spare us the spiritual lectures. The search for meaning has also evolved since the 60’s. The whole East Coast Of Australia is littered with elderly disciples of The Morning Of The Earth philosophy who still pay lip service to that successful marketing ploy and young people didn’t know any better at the time. If you’re still holding on to that yarn you’re dead in the water. The reason such an apparently fit guy had a massive heart attack can be linked to over production of adrenaline during surfing which keeps cholesterol in solution. If the adrenaline production slows down which is inevitable with aging the cholesterol builds up - more so if you’re also a dope smoker.
There was a bumper sticker popular in the early 80's in SoCal that read "Real Surfers Don't Work".........really pissed me off, I was a Commercial/Industrial Electrician, but hit every evening session and every weekend that I possibly could..........but yeah, I was just jealous. FUCK!
How good was that, simply orated by an uncomplicated guy who bypassed all the bullshit of life, listen to your heart not all the crap being spruiked at you.
Met Allan at Wainui Beach poss 68/69 and he took an interest in a new short Quane board I had, tried it and gave his seal of approval...great guy...
wow. that was special.
Good old days I miss it. A lot. If you're young enjoy everyday and surf as much as you can. These next Couple years probably be my last. Surfing gave me as a kid the best outlet to enjoy my days every day. True freedom. Time is short enjoy the ride. Alooooooooha
Wish you were still here my brother.....
Niiiiice !!
I'm almost 70.
Been dead 3 x.
Love everyday.
The local spot still "hates on me "....40 years later. I'm sharing this story with everyone !!
Thanks again
This is my Genteration.We figure sht out.
I remember Alan coming to North Shore. He just loves the barrel.
What great history.
thank you. P.j. Rincon
I wandered into a surf shop in Launceston 1988 looked at all the boards. I had been riding a wave ski no body liked me so I thought I better get a surfboard.
All the boards looked pretty average thinking back I didn’t know shit.
But there was a burning spears sitting on its own in the corner.
It belonged 2 Peter drouwn who at the time was studying at the Maratime college in George Town.
The shop owner said that’s Peter drouwns board he’s a surfing legend.
Well that was good enough for me.
My girlfriend at the time brought it for me for my 23rd birthday.
It was a 6’6 deep channel swallow tail.
Knowing what I know now and thinking back compared 2 the other boards it was a work of art.
I was involved in many sports at the time.
If I hadn’t seen that board I might not ever have surfed.
Thanks Alan Byrne and Peter drouwn.
You changed my life forever.
My first board was an Allan Byrne 6'8". How I wish I still had that board now, and not because of this doco, just because I made so many memories with it. Cheers Allan 🙏
Great watch sure remember spending time with Kevin Jarraett in the early 70s
Hamish Graham was making burning spears in California my friends and I got some .best boards especially in good waves. A.B. WAS A LEGEND HERE TOO.I remember seeing him at pipe on ABC sports
AB was a great man and I am so glad this movie is around so he will never be forgotten. Beers down and the factory and training with all the crew, some great memories
One of the greatest friend's I've ever known. Period. Byrnesey shaped my blades for 25 plus year's. Never made a dud & he loved my commitment to the glide & lifestyle. My greatest memory is of sharing waves together & sitting around the family table planning tomorrow's escapades. AB was a true legend & mate, miss you my friend. Shout to the clan, DD, Scardy, Colonel, Sherwack, Stocksy, Littlewood, Smitty, Catty, Gringo, Shredder ... We're better humans for having known him.
Shout out to Jane & Dale you guy's must be sooo proud. Lotsa Love to the family.
Best surf video I've seen in a long time, this Man speaks the truth. I grew, up in the same era in SoCal, contests were BS, we headed up and down the coast, for me there was no need to fly for a long time. My buddy taught me how to "skurf", which we called 'Free Boarding' behind a rental ski boat on Lake Mojave on the Colorado River in 1978. We also did a bit outside Newport Harbor down a little outside of Scotchman's Cove, cruised on some big south swells outside of Newport Harbor once, but never got serious like Laird and Da Boyz. We were lucky as hell to live in that era, and like all Old Dawgs, see what 'Surfing' has become...........incredible skills and talent and equipment, but not much soul. To all the Soul Surfers still out there, I say "Enjoy It While You Can". Thanks so much for posting this bit, it brought tears and laughs, Aloha.
True surfing legend. I loved the old Morris j van, fj Holden and the Morris wagon. Cheers!
How awesome would it have been to be one of the early surfers, and to actually travel around and discover a surf spot and be the first to surf it?? No crowds, no pressure, just pure enjoyment !! It must suck for those guys to see the ridiculous crowds at every decent surf spot these days?
I started surfing quite late in life - at 27, after playing other sports. Soon surfing was the priority. When I was made redundant from my government job in 1998 at 37, I vowed to never work in another job that would stop me from surfing in the morning - if it was good. In 2005 I became an arvo shift bus driver, so my mornings were always free. The perfect surfing job!! I retired from that job in 2021 after a knee replacement. My rehab was mainly to get my left knee to bend quick enough to surf again, and I've been surfing with no problems. 61 this year, and may need to work again, but I'll still make sure any job won't stop me surfing.
Right on bro.
Paddled out from Talle creek on a massive Burliegh swell around 25 years ago. Not real sure if I should have been there. Got out somehow and realised it was fricken massive. Waves were peaking probably 100m east of Sharkies. I was thinking about how I was getting in . Come across Al Byrne on my trip north., had a brief chat until a makkin set showed up. I head for Surfers while Al head for Cooly . Last I saw he was bottom turning into seriously heavy wave , didn't see him again . I was so happy to feel the sand at north burliegh. I wish I could have been that calm and confident.
I’ve just found this. What a story!!
Thank you. All the best guys.
great music as well ❤
A great life story!! A life superbly lived. A true surfing legend. a good friend and teacher.
True surf starts with a surfboard made by a true shaper. Fantastic surf clips and a honest story.
Watching this brought a smile and a sad/sweet nostalgia... turn 60 this year and still riding shortboards. SW Western Australia, I recall when you could rock up at premier breaks and there would be no-one or a just a couple of guys. So blessed...
So good to see an accurate and well produced Kiwi surfing history, from the primary source. Saw Al and Kevin at the Mount in '77, my last year in school - it was like seeing John Wayne and Charlton Heston in a car together. Ti Trees in '82 still wan't crowded, nor the Pass or Lennox, and in NZ you could still camp at Blacks, or Whale Bay and surf empty waves mid-week. Happy to surf those times! Vale legend, A.B. and well done filmmaker for documenting his philosophy for us all to hear (great song choices BTW - reflect the times).
Message in a bottle from another time. Nicely done doco about a real soul surfer.
What a beautiful human!
absolutely 💯
kiwis usually are
Great story. AB was a great human. I remember meeting him and hearing about the times in Taranaki when they used to surf, ski and white water raft all in the same day. He shaped me a board but I always regret not going in with him when he shaped it like he offered. I cherish it to this day and now my son surfs it. Your spirit lives on AB
Can you confirm that it is mount Taranaki on the cover? Spent some time in Opunaki in the early 90’s and got a similar photo apart from the Morris traveler it was a Toyota corrola.
@@marcelboogaard3809 I would say so taken down the coast possibly kumara patch Stent Road maybe but sure is our mountain
Wow, I am absolutely blown away. What a beautiful film. Thank you guys for your contribution to surfing New Zealand and the world 🤙🏻
Awesome bro saw you way back in 1981 I think or maybe 1979 goldcoast burly .we where young kiwis staying at Rudd park living off meat pies and beers .gr8 dayz
A life well lived...thank you, my brother.
Amen
I come from the same era Allan ..he was as good as the best of the best anywhere esp goofy foot for some time ..beautiful doco…
Life takes unexpected turns. Just ride the wave and keep on riding it.
I had the privilege of holding a few blanks for Allan while he shaped on Oahu courtesy of Darrick . This was just as the movie "In God's Hands" was finalizing editing. He listened as I revealed some concepts and thoughts. It was a great moment for me. He was a great surfer and shaper. Glad I got to hang out for a few ticks of the clock. Aloha ~
Legend!
Fantastic shaper, wonderful human being,. I got a brand new Hot Stuff shaped by Al in the early 90's from the Hot Stuff shop at North Burleigh, when it was still there. Had some amazing sessions on that board, loved that brand new board feeling.
Nice, I pulled a 6’8” “Byrne” off the lightly used rack in the early 90’s and that board had the rocker and enough foam under chest for sick late reef drops. Always thought he was from Hawaii. Great footage (including the wakeboard) and tribute to a legend.
Huge respect AB that was great to watch and listen.
AB miss you mate.. A.B was my shaper for nearly 10 yrs him and N.P sr still remember the funny stories in the currumbin hot stuff factory and his factory in currumbin..gone but never forgotten mate
Wow never knew him but had friends that do, true surfer loved this vid.
Excellent trailer - looking forward to seeing more! I was surfing with a bunch of mates at Mangamanu on the East coast of the South Island in the 1970s - a guy showed up and asked if he could stay in our tent ... turned out to be Alan Byrne. The swell was head high with sets 2 m plus - Alan was taking off 50 m inside anyone else and flying across faces that no-one else was close to making - the speed he got was unlike anything I'd seen. He was unassuming and friendly although his extraordinary ability set him apart. He shaped a board for me - rode it for many years although it was capable of far more than the rider was. I loaned it to some dude who dropped in on a close out and broke it in half.
Awsome
Great, what a legend!!
What a guy!! Love from Pembrokeshire, Wales, Uk.. Makes me really think about the corporate BS in surfing - thankfully not too bad here.
Roots, so rad. Love Alan Byrne. Had Byrning Spears boards. They ride good. He was in Pipe Masters, but that doesn't matter. Rip
Great Vid …. True Champion .!
Man the wakeboarding section is so sick !!
The real test area. 50 MPH!
Great surfers!!!
Thank you for a really good surfing film and sharing your story with fellow surfers. I started surfing in 1960 borrowing boards from anyone prepared to lend me theirs. I relate to the old long boards and the changes over the decades. Also your music choices are most enjoyable.
Great story, great family.
One question, are you still in Queensland. I'm coming to Queensland this year from South Africa and would like to just sit and chat with you and talk surfing and life. If you wouldn't mind.
The man
Excellent
Byrning spears had a couple channel bottoms when he shaped em for me I wasn't aware of the person the algorithm on my device pulled this up I
Thank you, incredible, the Eco Board by Chris Hines is worth trying. Enjoy our beautiful Ocean Planet. # HeroesAtSea.
superb
I love Surfing ....God Bless
True winner of '81 Pipe Masters
Yep, the Hawaiians threw a tantrum and AB was robbed. No whining from AB though, he took it with grace and humility as he always did. NZ's greatest ever surfer and a good example for anyone who wants an example of a life well lived.
Beautiful story. All Glory to Lord Jesus read 1 Corinthians 15. The Gospel of Jesus Christ
Allen will always be one of the best.
My question is did he still do dairy products ? I go what I call vegetarian yet if I revert back to how I was raised so be it . I never do dairy products though.
Beef burrito is my weakness.
He mentioned diet . That is why I bring it up. In the context of the video people could assume it all “genetic” . I know no answer will come to answer everyones beliefs.
Yet it is important to understand things in context. He probably was a dairy consumer raised to believe he was vegetarian .
Death waits for us all .
In high school I rode a byrne. Great board, I rode till it was toast. Cant remember where it ended up. Time can be painful when memories echo joyful feelings long ago. A pain that subsides as time goes and we realize how special those times were and how wonderful those feelings are. Peace and love, great flick, great people!!
great....👍🌊🏄♂️
Nice!!!
great film :)
Amen
Burning Spears. Looks like George Greeno's Friend... 🌊🏄🏼👍💖
"nature just grabs ya" no need to say bro
👍🏻
So happy to see this, let's get back to grassroots!!!!
The early images of 60’s Surfing captured the air of discovery back then but the ongoing Soul Surfer monologue was very self-serving. Spiritual people want others to see the Truth for themselves not impress you with how spiritual they are.
People with athletic genetics can & do remain active in a sport but spare us the spiritual lectures. The search for meaning has also evolved
since the 60’s.
The whole East Coast Of Australia is littered with elderly disciples of The Morning Of The Earth philosophy who still pay lip service to that successful marketing ploy and young people didn’t know any better at the time. If you’re still holding on to that yarn you’re dead in the water.
The reason such an apparently fit guy had a massive heart attack can be linked to over production of adrenaline during surfing which keeps cholesterol in solution. If the adrenaline production slows down which is inevitable with aging the cholesterol builds up - more so if you’re also a dope smoker.
❤️❤️❤️👏👏👏✌️
I lost sooo many jobs because of surfing. Easy to do when yer living on the Rincon coast of California for 25 years.
There was a bumper sticker popular in the early 80's in SoCal that read "Real Surfers Don't Work".........really pissed me off, I was a Commercial/Industrial Electrician, but hit every evening session and every weekend that I possibly could..........but yeah, I was just jealous. FUCK!
❤
aloha!!! DC.
A great Gissy boy
AB Beautiful Soul🌅🫀🌊🕊️ A L O H A
70 mph whips on a skurfer with that mullet…f yeah.
15:35
How good was that, simply orated by an uncomplicated guy who bypassed all the bullshit of life, listen to your heart not all the crap being spruiked at you.
No Herbie Fletcher towing Martin Potter in 3rd reef pipe started it