Tim I know! I went camping 2. Summers over. I never even got my bike out or even started it. So you know what that means. Clean out the gas tank,line,carb. Wow!! What happened to the summer I was waiting for? Tim I like your shot cut.
Ya beat me to it 😎👍. im planning on doing a video on replacing the front seal for the 7.25 rear end in the 1965-66 valiant but will put a dot of paint on the socket as well and count the turns . Great video Tim . Glad you and the family are doing well
Very good trick. Need to look into if my '69 83/4 has a crush sleeve or shims. Actually not sure of what guts are in it now. Since the late '80's had 3,23, 3,55, and 3,91, gear changes. Going back to 3.55's Its more than enough in a pick up
Awesome information! I did this on a 73 cuda i had, it had the fine spline yoke, can't remember what case it was but i never had any problems afterwards. 👍
The ford 8.8 uses the sleeve and after I built it, i had to change out the yoke because I got the wrong one sent and didn't catch it until I went to bolt the drive shaft up and with the rear never being used after I built it i did something very similar and it worked and hasn't missed a beat since, Thats a good way to do it and not hafta spend money to buy the sleeve again such as in my case when its new and just installed with 0 miles
Tim this is a good subject!... Some of the comments here are out there in space! 😂😂😂... Number one mount the pig on the engine stand if you have it loose.... Or just jack the car up and use stands... Two remove shaft and brake drums not necessary on the stand.... 3 use a inch pound torque wrench one with a dial to read cheap on ebay or fish scale measure the turning torque it takes to turn pinion this is the most accurate way to return the bearings to the correct preload.... And guess what it's the pro way! 😂😂😂...just torque the nut in increments till the turning torque is back to were it was originally and your done... Leave the markers for art class 😂😂😂
100% agree.....if guys are going to put up instructional videos then they should be showing the CORRECT way to do things and not these backyard tricks.
@@318willrun The point is Tim, and you may or may not agree with this but what you showed is a “ok” way to do that but it is not the “correct” way. In my personal opinion guys that are gonna teach or show how to do things should do so using the correct methods and then over time and with experience guys can finess the procedures how they want. Case in point how many top tier RUclips channels in regards to engine building and performance show guys shortcuts and or backyard ways to do things? None…..because that is not how professionals approach things.
@@moparsareeverything1980 There are ends of the spectrum of everything. My channel is based on "back yard-how to's" and I state that very fact. Even in this video, I state "I am not the professional" 2 minutes in. I just show what I am doing, sharing a part of my hobby.
I have a 1956 Dodge pickup with an older 8 3/4, and it also has a leak so this looks like a pretty decent way to solve the problem. But I'm not sure whether it would have a crush sleeve or shims. I know it's not interchangeable with the newer 8 3/4 because the housing has a different bolt pattern. And it also has the old tapered shaft with the keyway on the axles. Anyway, I might just have to take it apart to find out what it has.
@@318willrun Yeah, I am thinking it probably has shims, but either way I think marking it like you did and being careful will work just fine. It would be really nice to eliminate the oil spot on the garage floor. I also have a leak in the transmission (4 spd manual), so I'll probably do all of that at the same time.
@@318willrun im not sure if I have sure grip. If I turn one wheel the other will spin in the same direction, if it is sure grip can I use a oil with the limited slip additive already in it? If its not sure grip would the additive hurt anything? Much appreciated.
@@1hatecrew If the rear end is off the ground, and you turn one wheel and they both turn the same direction, it's a sure grip. You'll need the additive that comes in it's own small container.
@@318willrun He developed a module of sorts that can do a bunch of things but the main feature is that it can keep your AFR at your desired ratio (let's say 14:1) and it doesn't require intricate electronics. There's a bung that goes into your exhaust, a hot wire and the small box that is basically a controlled vacuum leak keeping you where you set it. It's also monitored by an app that gives you real time numbers being displayed either on your phone or another monitor of choice. He's getting 25+mpg in an old beater Maverick and for fun he 3d printed an adapter to mount a lawnmower carb on it and proceeded to get 40+mpg while rolling down the highway at 70. It's also a theft deterrent as it'll shut your ignition down. You can set a rev limiter as well.. for a bit over $400. It's a pretty slick design that has some other possibilities that can actually turn our old cars into viable gas-saving machines. If you search "lawnmower carb on car" something like that you'll find it. It's an entertaining watch when you have some time.
Only the 489 has a crush sleeve right ?
Correct. The 741 & 742 use shims. I'll pin this in case somebody gets confused doing 8.75 rear end. Thanks
Thanks for that Tim! This is the kind of video that us lackies need! 😁
You bet! Thanks MIke !!!!
Excellent video! This will definitely help someone out there.
Thanks Joe !!! Go Lunch Truck !!!!
Tim I know! I went camping 2. Summers over. I never even got my bike out or even started it. So you know what that means. Clean out the gas tank,line,carb. Wow!! What happened to the summer I was waiting for? Tim I like your shot cut.
Thanks!!!
Great Timing, I've got this to do on my '74 Duster with 7 1/4 rear end.....You gave me more confidence for this task....Thank You!
I'm sure you'll do just fine!!
Nice explanation. I had a 742 case that had a leather seal in it. I do like the caes without the crush sleeves.
Right on
Ya beat me to it 😎👍. im planning on doing a video on replacing the front seal for the 7.25 rear end in the 1965-66 valiant but will put a dot of paint on the socket as well and count the turns . Great video Tim . Glad you and the family are doing well
Thank You!
Good video tim, Seen people doing it that way, lot faster and easier.
Thanks 👍
Cool and informative thanks brother for that
Thanks!
Put a dot of yellow paint on the socket lined up with the dot on the nut so you can see about where it is rotationaly
That would help !!!! Thanks Jeff!
Very good trick. Need to look into if my '69 83/4 has a crush sleeve or shims. Actually not sure of what guts are in it now. Since the late '80's had 3,23, 3,55, and 3,91, gear changes. Going back to 3.55's Its more than enough in a pick up
Thanks!
This needs to be done on my car. Great video!
Thanks!
Awesome information! I did this on a 73 cuda i had, it had the fine spline yoke, can't remember what case it was but i never had any problems afterwards. 👍
Thanks!
The ford 8.8 uses the sleeve and after I built it, i had to change out the yoke because I got the wrong one sent and didn't catch it until I went to bolt the drive shaft up and with the rear never being used after I built it i did something very similar and it worked and hasn't missed a beat since, Thats a good way to do it and not hafta spend money to buy the sleeve again such as in my case when its new and just installed with 0 miles
Awesome!
Tim this is a good subject!... Some of the comments here are out there in space! 😂😂😂... Number one mount the pig on the engine stand if you have it loose.... Or just jack the car up and use stands... Two remove shaft and brake drums not necessary on the stand.... 3 use a inch pound torque wrench one with a dial to read cheap on ebay or fish scale measure the turning torque it takes to turn pinion this is the most accurate way to return the bearings to the correct preload.... And guess what it's the pro way! 😂😂😂...just torque the nut in increments till the turning torque is back to were it was originally and your done... Leave the markers for art class 😂😂😂
Absolutely the more precise way! ^^
100% agree.....if guys are going to put up instructional videos then they should be showing the CORRECT way to do things and not these backyard tricks.
@@moparsareeverything1980 It's back together and working 100% with 100% zero leaks!!!! It's been 100% corrrrrected !!! 🙂
@@318willrun The point is Tim, and you may or may not agree with this but what you showed is a “ok” way to do that but it is not the “correct” way. In my personal opinion guys that are gonna teach or show how to do things should do so using the correct methods and then over time and with experience guys can finess the procedures how they want. Case in point how many top tier RUclips channels in regards to engine building and performance show guys shortcuts and or backyard ways to do things? None…..because that is not how professionals approach things.
@@moparsareeverything1980 There are ends of the spectrum of everything. My channel is based on "back yard-how to's" and I state that very fact. Even in this video, I state "I am not the professional" 2 minutes in. I just show what I am doing, sharing a part of my hobby.
📌🧅!!
👍
Thanks, ordered a new seal from Dr diff for my 8 3/4. 741 houseing...like your videos
Thank you!
I have a 1956 Dodge pickup with an older 8 3/4, and it also has a leak so this looks like a pretty decent way to solve the problem. But I'm not sure whether it would have a crush sleeve or shims. I know it's not interchangeable with the newer 8 3/4 because the housing has a different bolt pattern. And it also has the old tapered shaft with the keyway on the axles. Anyway, I might just have to take it apart to find out what it has.
I think with proper attention to detail, you can do it with success!
@@318willrun Yeah, I am thinking it probably has shims, but either way I think marking it like you did and being careful will work just fine. It would be really nice to eliminate the oil spot on the garage floor. I also have a leak in the transmission (4 spd manual), so I'll probably do all of that at the same time.
Thanks just in time, i might have to do this to my 68 d200 with the spicer 60
You have a workhorse - nice truck!
I used a cutoff wheel to notch the nut and shaft and count the threads that are exposed.
that will work !!! Thanks!
Great info I like it. Thank you. Good video.
Thank you
If I didnt need new bearings in mine I would try this.
Thanks Stephen !!
Good vid👌
Thanks! 😃
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Cley!
For a 741/742 they use shims you can just blast it off and back on
I’ve done it this way for y.
👍
Wait a minute....I'm gonna have to do this EVERY 40 or 50 years?
Ugh......😁
😅
So if i have a 742 case i can just send that pinion nut right on home?
Yep!
@@318willrun thank you what fluid do you run in your 8.75s?
@@1hatecrew I like 75w-90 Valvoline, and if a sure-grip remember it has to have the sure-grip additive
@@318willrun im not sure if I have sure grip. If I turn one wheel the other will spin in the same direction, if it is sure grip can I use a oil with the limited slip additive already in it? If its not sure grip would the additive hurt anything? Much appreciated.
@@1hatecrew If the rear end is off the ground, and you turn one wheel and they both turn the same direction, it's a sure grip. You'll need the additive that comes in it's own small container.
So this seals the deal Tim 😂. ✌️.
😅
Hey Tim, have you come across Luke's (Thunderhead 289) Carb cheater videos? I'd be curious on your thoughts
I've seen some of his videos, not sure if I saw the cheater carb video. I'll have to check it out
@@318willrun He developed a module of sorts that can do a bunch of things but the main feature is that it can keep your AFR at your desired ratio (let's say 14:1) and it doesn't require intricate electronics. There's a bung that goes into your exhaust, a hot wire and the small box that is basically a controlled vacuum leak keeping you where you set it. It's also monitored by an app that gives you real time numbers being displayed either on your phone or another monitor of choice. He's getting 25+mpg in an old beater Maverick and for fun he 3d printed an adapter to mount a lawnmower carb on it and proceeded to get 40+mpg while rolling down the highway at 70.
It's also a theft deterrent as it'll shut your ignition down. You can set a rev limiter as well.. for a bit over $400. It's a pretty slick design that has some other possibilities that can actually turn our old cars into viable gas-saving machines.
If you search "lawnmower carb on car" something like that you'll find it. It's an entertaining watch when you have some time.
I haven't bought one yet because I'm broke for a bit😅
ruclips.net/video/1xHQWu2ZzPc/видео.htmlsi=z6DUrR6hwd86JCQA