I've always had good luck with Castrol but I totally agree with you it's all in the application and circumstances and if it's a reputable company it's all good
Invited over for 🦃 lol. I’ll stay subscribed as long as you’ll have me. Thanks for keeping it realistic for all of us. Especially the less informed. Have a great night!
If all that works for you, great! Keep doing it….myself, I own and operate an automotive and small engine repair shop, plus taught mechanics at a local community college for 23 years….while teaching many engine classes I updated my knowledge on motor oils and applications…I understood the benefits of full synthetic oils 50 years ago, but the cost then was prohibitive in comparison to regular mineral based oil. Then 23 years ago I researched the topic again and found that even though the cost was double, the quality was much better and I could extend the drain interval, making it less expensive and better for my drivetrain. I used to be a Valvoline guy (still am on ATF), but found that Mobil 1 products have me covered on everything else…on flat tappet cams I use 15-50 full synthetic 1200ppm zinc, most other engines I use 10-30 High Mileage full synthetic 890ppm, and use Mobil 1 gear lube (which doesn’t require an additive for sure grip differentials)…..a couple of things to keep in mind…you can over zinc an engine, the saying if some is good, more is better, doesn’t apply….second thing is that no oil company recommends putting any additive in your oil, because it can (will) change the chemical composition of the oil….if you feel you need to use an additive, you’re using the wrong oil
One of the best oil advice I have read was in Mike Wares engine book; use the brand you feel comfortable with. People tend to blame oil for their problems, but it's usually not a result of scientific research.
You should be using a modern API SP oil. It has the best antiwear protection of any oil ever made for engines, including flat tappet use. Diesel oil contains different Zinc phosphor esters that don't activate at all until much higher surface loads and temperatures that aren't seen in gasoline engines. And the excess phosphorus will foul catalysts.
All oils have to conform to a minimum standard. That said I used to run 10w40 in everything and never really noticed a big difference between brands. Lately I have switched to 15w40 that I use in my diesel.
Flat tappets aside, all of my daily drivers or beaters, (rollers) I've used all kinds of oil. The biggest impact is keeping it changed regularly and fresh with any 'good' oil. Also, if it uses or burns oil keeping it topped off has a major effect in keeping temps down and not oxidizing or burning the oil prematurely. The new syn or semi-syn oils are very good. Whatever brand. Since Hydro-cracking oils are so much better. My daily is a 1987 318 with 230k and doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I noticed that synthetic has way less consumption due to the molecules being so uniform in size compared to dino oil. VR1 is great oil but only worth it if you have a flat tappet. The Castrol GTX Classic is good too, but most of those 'high zinc' oils really push the 20w-50.
I run Valvoline VR1 in all my old stuff because the extra cost doesn't really matter when you're doing it once a year. The 67 Belvedere slant six uses a quarter of a quart every 3k miles if I run VR1.
I learned that from you too. 318 lean burn got taken out for the conventional electronic ignition,it runs so much better and also changed the carburetor.@@318willrun
Yep, everything you said is spot on. I have had great luck with Havoline oil for over 40 years, but that doesn't mean everyone should use Havoline. And setting the timing (and other tuning specs) is dependent on a whole lot of factors. There is nothing wrong with starting with factory specs, but then tweak and adjust as necessary.
Yeah, it's a very touchy subject. A couple of things that I think are worth mentioning - at least from my point of view - I sell auto parts and oil change kits. So, I've really done my "homework" on the subject. 1st, I agree w/you whole heartedly to use whatever oil you and your engine like. As for the Penzoil situation, which no one really says the same thing about.... I read and found out that Penzoil did have sludge issues due their new refining process back the 70's and 80's and the wax incorporated into their oil. That is no longer the case these days and it's just as good as any other brand as long as the oil and filter are changed when it's required. Filters are a whole other subject that I won't broach here. The weight however, is important and like u said... use what your engine needs/likes. Here's my 2 cents on all synthetic oils... "in a nutshell" ...all synthetic oils do take longer to breakdown and therefore they do last much longer than conventional oils. And there's no such thing as a FULL synthetic oil. Both are made from natural/conventional oils using synthetic additives. I'm sure you're aware of this and just forgot to mention it. I'm not picking at you all bro. I get it, and think you're %100 right. Use what you engine wants. The one thing I'm a stickler on - is that if a car manufacturer recommends an oil that begins with "ZERO" anything... like 0W-16 or 0W-40 or what ever ZERO it is -DO NOT deviate from that weight. The clearances in that motor are so tight, it would result in severe engine damage. Lastly, I personally use zinc additives on all motors w/flat tappet cams - no matter how old it might be. I'm sure you're probably right that it doesn't matter on a really old motor - ( think that's what you're saying) If I'm off, sorry bro. It's cheap, and it makes me feel better. Peace of mind will make the car run better. 😃Good to see you're still posting after selling the one duster.
You all need to watch Lake Speed the oil geek. He has awesome videos on RUclips You are correct with every word Every engine is different and should be tuned by what is good for it.
I used Mobil 1 5w20 in my 2005 Hemi Ram from 24k miles to 184k miles.....it was using a quart every 1,000 miles by then. One thing I finally learned was, 10k oil changes are the devil....never go more than 5k on oil change intervals. The engine still ran fine, but I couldn't figure out where the oil was going? No leaks at all. Then I discovered that the thin oil rings on newer engines get carboned up and stick in the grooves? I bet that's what had happened. I heard that the new Valvoline Restore and Protect will clean the ring grooves and restore efficiency? I never got to try it....I traded off my Hemi Dodge.
That Valvoline gear lube has limited slip additive in it already. Try it before dumping in more LS additive. If it chatters, add small amounts until it stops. Too much will make your Sure Grip not grip!
Great info! How do they taste though?😀 seriously though, I do like Rotella in my ‘73 with a 318. I also use it my lawn and, snow equipment with good success. I am interested in trying that gear oil you showed. I haven’t tried synthetic in the rear.
I wiped one,about 30,000 into some other shops rebuild. I believe a valve was tight. I run it till the lifter quit spinning. I maintain, and use all I can get back. Change oil 4 a year. With each season change. Change filter,every other.
Eeeeeeeeeeeh Tim ,,, this iz R Moore,, transporter 15 yr,,, 4 diesels over the yr, my Canadian dude used the crap outa Rotella in his daughters car,,,, just like Im not in the chart game drive thousands and millions a miles though.......
The whole ZDDP thing has been a bit overblown to be honest, unless you have a high lift flat tappet cam and or very stiff springs, if the cam has been broken in right, you can easily get by with an oil that has 1000ppm of ZDDP, and even if you do, anything over 1300-1500ppm is just not needed. VR1 is a solid oil, or any oil that carries a European A3/B4 spec, those oils 95% of the time have +1000ppm , and they are a bit on the thicker side of their viscosity grade. For example, Castrol Edge European 5W-40, and i believe Quaker State also makes a Full synthetic 5W40 A3/B4 oil. Or if you want something thicker, use something like Mobil 1 15W-50, also high zinc and available everywhere. What really is a problem is finding cams and lifters nowadays that aren't made out of the crappiest Chinesium they can get.
That VR1 race oil does have Hi Zinc and that is great but it is a race oil. Race oil has lower detergent levels. It will need to be changed more frequently. Just saying.
Hey Tim, a buddy of mine gave me some camguard to put in the 77 stock 318 in my van. Any thoughts on that stuff? I understand if you have no comment :)
As well as Lake Speed Jr and Bob is the Oil Guy. There’s absolutely no need to depend on opinions and “testimony” when there is so much actual test data and the ability to submit your own oil tests to check the effectiveness of a specific oil in a specific engine.
@ back in the 70s I ran the cheapest Dino oil I could find and crappy Fram filters in my well-used Chev pickup. Never had an oil-related failure. Does that mean I was using the right products for my application? No, just meant they were good enough and/or I was lucky. I think - and this is just my opinion - that most oils on the market today, used under a reasonable OCI will work fine long term and not fail. So we can all fanboy about one or another, it’s a free country (though I live in a different one from yours), but that in no way proves that one is better than another, just that it’s good enough.
You got be an uncle caveman to get angry over oil! 😂😂😂 after all just use what is required....here in the northeast synthetic or blend is all you can get.. Zinc for my older stuff and none for my rollers and for my modern beaters they all get Wal-Mart tech oil and one has 350k on the clock and still running!.... In diffs and transmission if their is a synthetic option I go with that... No the real question is not so much the kind of oil but how often do you change it maintenance is a big deal to the life of a vehicle not just mechanical but body as well... As far as tuning a car only the person doing the tuning can really decide on all the variables of which with our older vintage cars there's way more room for adjustment with out complicated tools that are needed for modern car tuning... I blame TV car shows and very popular RUclips car channels for dumbing down a lot of people into thinking there's a magic wrench you can wave and Wa La it's done.... I even heard of one hack saying you can use home depot / lowes plumbing hoses for fuel line!... Yeah a lot of uncle hacks out there!
Good video! Im convinced you can literally run cooking oil in an old stock flat tappet Mopar engine. With new cams, I run VR-1, they dont make lifters like they used too!
I run full synthetic T6 Shell Rotella 5W-40 in everything. 15W-40 is too thick in the winter and you can't run Rotella in an engine that burns ANY oil, if it has cats. Zinc poisons catalytic converters.They have lowered the zinc level in the latest API spec oils, because of all this and the idiot low tension piston rings where the manufactures say that burning a quart of oil every 1500 miles is OK. BTW car makers, burning oil is bad for cats too. That's my two cents.
Funny! That is how wars are started! lol ! You use what you have the most luck with or someone can prove to you the other is better. I myself have changed to Amsoil . Years ago. Big money. But we do what we can to help as much we can to keep our stuff together. Of course I know a guy who puts whatever in on sale! Never a problem. All I got to say is we try our hardest to make it last. Good video! Thanks you.
@@richardmoerke9329 I bought a 03 Maxima with 94k on it. Trans grinded. Replaced with a factory one under warrantee. 244k now and nothing but Amsoil in there, no grind 👍. At one point I went 10+ years between changes. Still great. Huge money savings by not having to change the oil as often.
@@leakyjeep5.9 friend of mine used Amsoil (supplied by me lol) in the 6MT of his G35 coupe and it became very notchy shifting. Changed it back (to Nissan, I think) and was all good again. I ran Amsoil in all parts of my Infiniti sedan, but it was auto.
@@wayneandrews1022 I tried the Nissan stuff at first. Wasn't impressed. It's notchy when cold, but it will protect the syncros unlike the Nissan garbage. My car was smoked at 94k. The fact it made it to 240+ and gets compliments from the car runner when I had a airbag recall recently is no accident.
good video Tim! In my 521 I have a flat tappet, I use Kendall GT1 competition, I like it. Always good to see common sense videos like this!
Thanks Jeff! I have a friend that uses Kendall and he's been racing since the 60's !! No joke!
I've always had good luck with Castrol but I totally agree with you it's all in the application and circumstances and if it's a reputable company it's all good
I ran GTX oil for a long time! Good stuff!
Good info, hope it helps the masses. Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Good explainations ! I use almost the same oils 👍
Thanks!! !!
Invited over for 🦃 lol. I’ll stay subscribed as long as you’ll have me. Thanks for keeping it realistic for all of us. Especially the less informed. Have a great night!
We appreciate it! I hope all see the fun (dry humor) I have in making these videos as well as trying to be helpful! Thanks again!
Very informative video, I’ve always used Valvoline but like you said it’s whatever you prefer to run in your car. Really like your channel .
Thank you so much!
If all that works for you, great! Keep doing it….myself, I own and operate an automotive and small engine repair shop, plus taught mechanics at a local community college for 23 years….while teaching many engine classes I updated my knowledge on motor oils and applications…I understood the benefits of full synthetic oils 50 years ago, but the cost then was prohibitive in comparison to regular mineral based oil. Then 23 years ago I researched the topic again and found that even though the cost was double, the quality was much better and I could extend the drain interval, making it less expensive and better for my drivetrain.
I used to be a Valvoline guy (still am on ATF), but found that Mobil 1 products have me covered on everything else…on flat tappet cams I use 15-50 full synthetic 1200ppm zinc, most other engines I use 10-30 High Mileage full synthetic 890ppm, and use Mobil 1 gear lube (which doesn’t require an additive for sure grip differentials)…..a couple of things to keep in mind…you can over zinc an engine, the saying if some is good, more is better, doesn’t apply….second thing is that no oil company recommends putting any additive in your oil, because it can (will) change the chemical composition of the oil….if you feel you need to use an additive, you’re using the wrong oil
correct, you can get too much zinc. My Ram had 326,000 miles when I sold it and it purred like a kitten. Oil makes a difference!
One of the best oil advice I have read was in Mike Wares engine book; use the brand you feel comfortable with. People tend to blame oil for their problems, but it's usually not a result of scientific research.
Thanks!
You should be using a modern API SP oil. It has the best antiwear protection of any oil ever made for engines, including flat tappet use. Diesel oil contains different Zinc phosphor esters that don't activate at all until much higher surface loads and temperatures that aren't seen in gasoline engines. And the excess phosphorus will foul catalysts.
Thanks!!
I hear you . I mainly use Nulon and Penrite . You hit the nail on the head Tim . 👌🇦🇺✌️.
Thanks!!!
All oils have to conform to a minimum standard. That said I used to run 10w40 in everything and never really noticed a big difference between brands. Lately I have switched to 15w40 that I use in my diesel.
Thanks!
Well said. 👍
Thanks!
Flat tappets aside, all of my daily drivers or beaters, (rollers) I've used all kinds of oil. The biggest impact is keeping it changed regularly and fresh with any 'good' oil. Also, if it uses or burns oil keeping it topped off has a major effect in keeping temps down and not oxidizing or burning the oil prematurely. The new syn or semi-syn oils are very good. Whatever brand. Since Hydro-cracking oils are so much better. My daily is a 1987 318 with 230k and doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I noticed that synthetic has way less consumption due to the molecules being so uniform in size compared to dino oil. VR1 is great oil but only worth it if you have a flat tappet. The Castrol GTX Classic is good too, but most of those 'high zinc' oils really push the 20w-50.
You make some great points!
I love that shorty van Tim, I use Lucas hot rod oil 20w 50 in my 440. and I like Pennzoil in my daily
Lucas products are great !!! Thanks!
I run Valvoline VR1 in all my old stuff because the extra cost doesn't really matter when you're doing it once a year. The 67 Belvedere slant six uses a quarter of a quart every 3k miles if I run VR1.
Smart. Plain Smart!
Use what work for you and your application! Time your engine where it’s happy and working best for your engine!
Exactly!
I learned that from you too. 318 lean burn got taken out for the conventional electronic ignition,it runs so much better and also changed the carburetor.@@318willrun
Yep, everything you said is spot on. I have had great luck with Havoline oil for over 40 years, but that doesn't mean everyone should use Havoline. And setting the timing (and other tuning specs) is dependent on a whole lot of factors. There is nothing wrong with starting with factory specs, but then tweak and adjust as necessary.
Thanks !!
Yeah, it's a very touchy subject. A couple of things that I think are worth mentioning - at least from my point of view - I sell auto parts and oil change kits. So, I've really done my "homework" on the subject. 1st, I agree w/you whole heartedly to use whatever oil you and your engine like. As for the Penzoil situation, which no one really says the same thing about.... I read and found out that Penzoil did have sludge issues due their new refining process back the 70's and 80's and the wax incorporated into their oil. That is no longer the case these days and it's just as good as any other brand as long as the oil and filter are changed when it's required. Filters are a whole other subject that I won't broach here. The weight however, is important and like u said... use what your engine needs/likes. Here's my 2 cents on all synthetic oils... "in a nutshell" ...all synthetic oils do take longer to breakdown and therefore they do last much longer than conventional oils. And there's no such thing as a FULL synthetic oil. Both are made from natural/conventional oils using synthetic additives. I'm sure you're aware of this and just forgot to mention it. I'm not picking at you all bro. I get it, and think you're %100 right. Use what you engine wants. The one thing I'm a stickler on - is that if a car manufacturer recommends an oil that begins with "ZERO" anything... like 0W-16 or 0W-40 or what ever ZERO it is -DO NOT deviate from that weight. The clearances in that motor are so tight, it would result in severe engine damage. Lastly, I personally use zinc additives on all motors w/flat tappet cams - no matter how old it might be. I'm sure you're probably right that it doesn't matter on a really old motor - ( think that's what you're saying) If I'm off, sorry bro. It's cheap, and it makes me feel better. Peace of mind will make the car run better. 😃Good to see you're still posting after selling the one duster.
Great post! Thanks for the insight on the Pennzoil. I'm sure folks will read this and it will help. Thanks again!
You all need to watch Lake Speed the oil geek.
He has awesome videos on RUclips
You are correct with every word
Every engine is different and should be tuned by what is good for it.
Awesome, thanks!!
I used Mobil 1 5w20 in my 2005 Hemi Ram from 24k miles to 184k miles.....it was using a quart every 1,000 miles by then.
One thing I finally learned was, 10k oil changes are the devil....never go more than 5k on oil change intervals.
The engine still ran fine, but I couldn't figure out where the oil was going? No leaks at all.
Then I discovered that the thin oil rings on newer engines get carboned up and stick in the grooves? I bet that's what had happened.
I heard that the new Valvoline Restore and Protect will clean the ring grooves and restore efficiency?
I never got to try it....I traded off my Hemi Dodge.
Thanks for sharing this!
VR1 is my go-to newly over hauled 318 ,she likes it.
That Valvoline gear lube has limited slip additive in it already. Try it before dumping in more LS additive. If it chatters, add small amounts until it stops. Too much will make your Sure Grip not grip!
Thanks!
If you havent heard of or checked out the motor oil geek, May be worth a look. Ton of great and scientific info.
Thank You!
Great video....Just my opinion, I run zinc in any flat tappet engine. Even tho the cam may be small the lack of spring pressure can wipe the cam.
Great advice! Never hurt to be safe!
Great info! How do they taste though?😀 seriously though, I do like Rotella in my ‘73 with a 318. I also use it my lawn and, snow equipment with good success. I am interested in trying that gear oil you showed. I haven’t tried synthetic in the rear.
I've tasted oil, by accident! Taste like warmed valve cover grease
1998 5.9 dodge V8. Amsoil is the only one that makes it run super quiet. Rotella is second best but good enough.
Amsoil! 👍
I wiped one,about 30,000 into some other shops rebuild. I believe a valve was tight. I run it till the lifter quit spinning. I maintain, and use all I can get back. Change oil 4 a year. With each season change. Change filter,every other.
Great info!👍
Thank you!!
Been using vr-1 for over 10yrs in my 74 Duster and my wifes 1950 wayfarer.
I have a similar set as you I use Lucas high zinc in new builds and t4 for everything else I don't have anything new enough for 5w20 lol
Lucas is GREAT! Thanks!
There’s different options for your engine you just gotta find the right one and his information is great in my opinion
Thanks!
For my daily driver, my fevered oil brand is the one that is on sale that day, but the most important thing is to change it often.
Thanks!
Great vid, personally i don't like using anything less than w30 weight oil (can potentially have lower oil pressure)
Fair enough!
Any oil is better then no oil, it identifies as the right oil, “2023 no accountability” lol
can't disagree with that!
Yep, and an oil leak is a good sign because it proves there is oil in the engine (or trans or rear end).
A fellow peg fan.
Eeeeeeeeeeeh Tim ,,, this iz R Moore,, transporter 15 yr,,, 4 diesels over the yr, my Canadian dude used the crap outa Rotella in his daughters car,,,, just like Im not in the chart game drive thousands and millions a miles though.......
I use VR1 in a 500 stroker but then, it's a roller I still use ZDDP
Nice!
Good video, totally agree.
The whole ZDDP thing has been a bit overblown to be honest, unless you have a high lift flat tappet cam and or very stiff springs, if the cam has been broken in right, you can easily get by with an oil that has 1000ppm of ZDDP, and even if you do, anything over 1300-1500ppm is just not needed.
VR1 is a solid oil, or any oil that carries a European A3/B4 spec, those oils 95% of the time have +1000ppm , and they are a bit on the thicker side of their viscosity grade.
For example, Castrol Edge European 5W-40, and i believe Quaker State also makes a Full synthetic 5W40 A3/B4 oil.
Or if you want something thicker, use something like Mobil 1 15W-50, also high zinc and available everywhere.
What really is a problem is finding cams and lifters nowadays that aren't made out of the crappiest Chinesium they can get.
Very good points!! Thanks!
That's right you can build two identical engines but both are going to operate different.
You got it!
Do you have a local supplier for the VR1 or do you have to order it?
Actually, O'reilly's carries it. If you shop, there are cheaper places as well.
I use rotella in my 150cc scooter 15W 40.
Not preachin any oil religion but Amsoil makes a few oils with zinc for flat tappet cams. I have had noticeable improvement from Amsoil products.
AMSOIL is a GREAT product! Ran it in my snowmobiles! Thanks!
Rotella 15-40 in everything I own .
Dude I put T6 5w 40 in my Honda generator,,,, T6 IN my diesel 5w40 winter time ,,, 15w 40 summertime
That VR1 race oil does have Hi Zinc and that is great but it is a race oil. Race oil has lower detergent levels. It will need to be changed more frequently. Just saying.
Thanks!
I use whatever is on sale for the daily driver, got 240,000 miles on it now.
Hey Tim, a buddy of mine gave me some camguard to put in the 77 stock 318 in my van. Any thoughts on that stuff? I understand if you have no comment :)
I've not used it but it may be good stuff!!
Project farm did oil major brands of oil testing
I saw that! It was interesting!
As well as Lake Speed Jr and Bob is the Oil Guy. There’s absolutely no need to depend on opinions and “testimony” when there is so much actual test data and the ability to submit your own oil tests to check the effectiveness of a specific oil in a specific engine.
@@wayneandrews1022 They test eggs and they are bad for you. They test eggs and now they are good for you.
@ back in the 70s I ran the cheapest Dino oil I could find and crappy Fram filters in my well-used Chev pickup. Never had an oil-related failure. Does that mean I was using the right products for my application? No, just meant they were good enough and/or I was lucky.
I think - and this is just my opinion - that most oils on the market today, used under a reasonable OCI will work fine long term and not fail. So we can all fanboy about one or another, it’s a free country (though I live in a different one from yours), but that in no way proves that one is better than another, just that it’s good enough.
@@wayneandrews1022 Does that mean you were right? Well, i can say at least it means you weren't wrong..... thanks!
I've been using mobile 1 classic oil similar to vr1.
Good choice! It's a good oil.
I use moreys fuel stabilizer to replace lead and penrite oil high zinc fully synthetic on modern engine and 20 60 in real old engine like pre 1970
Thanks for sharing!!
You forgot Wolf's Head! Unsubscribed! LOLOLOL. Seriously though.....Great vid, great advice!
Thanks for watching and for the humor!
@@318willrun Just returning the favor. We share the exact same sense of humor, LOL.
You got be an uncle caveman to get angry over oil! 😂😂😂 after all just use what is required....here in the northeast synthetic or blend is all you can get.. Zinc for my older stuff and none for my rollers and for my modern beaters they all get Wal-Mart tech oil and one has 350k on the clock and still running!.... In diffs and transmission if their is a synthetic option I go with that... No the real question is not so much the kind of oil but how often do you change it maintenance is a big deal to the life of a vehicle not just mechanical but body as well... As far as tuning a car only the person doing the tuning can really decide on all the variables of which with our older vintage cars there's way more room for adjustment with out complicated tools that are needed for modern car tuning... I blame TV car shows and very popular RUclips car channels for dumbing down a lot of people into thinking there's a magic wrench you can wave and Wa La it's done.... I even heard of one hack saying you can use home depot / lowes plumbing hoses for fuel line!... Yeah a lot of uncle hacks out there!
Ha! Thanks!
Good video! Im convinced you can literally run cooking oil in an old stock flat tappet Mopar engine. With new cams, I run VR-1, they dont make lifters like they used too!
TRUTH ^^^^ Thanks!
I run full synthetic T6 Shell Rotella 5W-40 in everything. 15W-40 is too thick in the winter and you can't run Rotella in an engine that burns ANY oil, if it has cats. Zinc poisons catalytic converters.They have lowered the zinc level in the latest API spec oils, because of all this and the idiot low tension piston rings where the manufactures say that burning a quart of oil every 1500 miles is OK. BTW car makers, burning oil is bad for cats too.
That's my two cents.
your 2 cents is worth a 100.00 !! I can't argue with anything, well said!~
How much salt should I put on my salad???.....👻
None, it causes harden of the arteries 😅
Good testimony. I’m tired of the meme “ use a good quality motor oil “. Lol . Name me a bad oil then ?
Amsoil in any diff or manual trans. End of discussion. Unless you don't care.
Good stuff!
Funny! That is how wars are started! lol ! You use what you have the most luck with or someone can prove to you the other is better. I myself have changed to Amsoil . Years ago. Big money. But we do what we can to help as much we can to keep our stuff together. Of course I know a guy who puts whatever in on sale! Never a problem. All I got to say is we try our hardest to make it last. Good video! Thanks you.
@@richardmoerke9329 I bought a 03 Maxima with 94k on it. Trans grinded. Replaced with a factory one under warrantee. 244k now and nothing but Amsoil in there, no grind 👍. At one point I went 10+ years between changes. Still great. Huge money savings by not having to change the oil as often.
@@leakyjeep5.9 friend of mine used Amsoil (supplied by me lol) in the 6MT of his G35 coupe and it became very notchy shifting. Changed it back (to Nissan, I think) and was all good again. I ran Amsoil in all parts of my Infiniti sedan, but it was auto.
@@wayneandrews1022 I tried the Nissan stuff at first. Wasn't impressed. It's notchy when cold, but it will protect the syncros unlike the Nissan garbage. My car was smoked at 94k. The fact it made it to 240+ and gets compliments from the car runner when I had a airbag recall recently is no accident.
🎉tim i ĺike tje comment about tje magnum at tĥe end
So many oʻn here want a pour it fix. It just doesn̈t happen like that
No Mechanic in a bottle 😂