Thank you for all the details...it was late in the day, had to get back home, took them apart quickly thinking "these are so simple, I can remember this", but now I was not so sure.....until I watched your video! Thanks for helping me and many others to make these projects more fun.
On Saturday I installed the new shoes on the '55 600, reused the hardware, and adjusted the star wheel until it started to drag. Next was to adjust the pedals, the left (as if you are sitting in the seat) was easy because of the turnbuckle, but I can not understand how to adjust the right side. I loosened and removed the bolt where the pedal shaft attaches to the camshaft shaft, used plenty of penetrating oil, hit with a hammer and it would not move. Is this connection keyed? One more question, how loose should the brake camshaft be within the hole that goes through the backing plate? The shaft can move up and down about a 1/4" in each direction and the shoes do not contact the cam . I have a few photos and short video, but not sure how to send them if needed. Any help will be appreciated.
@@account11455 that pedal is keyed to the brake camshaft. Only way to adjust the right brake is to turn the star wheel adjuster to bring pedal height up. I never filmed it but I have a set of shoes that I had on my 861 that I tried putting on the 4000 that were not made correctly. No matter how much I adjusted them the pedal wouldn't come up. Where the pins are at the front wasn't machined enough and the shoes never set down onto the camshaft. Swapped shoes and problems was fixed. The cams in the backing plate hole will move up and down quite a bit but the shoes should center it in the hole. Once adjusted properly the shoes should be touching the camshafts pretty much all across the T shaped end, a 1/16" gap is ok. If not shoes need some grinding where that pins go.
@@chickenhousemechanic You are right, it looks like some grinding on the hole will be the best option...will let you know how it ends. At first I was thinking of building up the cam block and grinding smooth, but it does not seem to be the easiest way.
Hi CHM, thank you for listing the years that the video covers with the 1960 Fordson dexta I really appreciate it and being old I have all the tools required for old style brakes now I know yo mentioned the part number but could you link it also thank you
Hardware kit: www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-801_Brake-Repair-Kit_NCA2250.html Brake shoes: www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-801_Brake-Shoe-with-Lining-Pack-of-2-Shoes_NCA2218B.html Each part does 1 side so you'll need 2 of each to do both sides.
Any idea what the OEM number is for the drums? I keep seeing two different numbers popping up online and I don't know which is the correct fit. Plus, the new drums have a slightly different appearance than the old.
Original part number is NCA-1126-A. These have been superceded to 86533415. From pictures I believe these to be cast iron where the originals were steel. Thats most likely the reason they look different.
On my 53 NAA/Jubilee I needed a lot more friction than that to get the brakes working properly. Different brake mechanism slightly though. More like an 8N
The only spring on the throttle linkage is at the bottom of the touch rod. It may be broken. There is also a friction disk under the battery. That is most likely the issue. You can probably just tighten the nut a little on top of the friction disk if the disc is still there and in ok condition. If neither of those repairs the issue you may have an injection pump issue.
Thank you for all the details...it was late in the day, had to get back home, took them apart quickly thinking "these are so simple, I can remember this", but now I was not so sure.....until I watched your video! Thanks for helping me and many others to make these projects more fun.
Thank you. I try to be detailed since most videos lack that and that is usually where people need help the most.
On Saturday I installed the new shoes on the '55 600, reused the hardware, and adjusted the star wheel until it started to drag. Next was to adjust the pedals, the left (as if you are sitting in the seat) was easy because of the turnbuckle, but I can not understand how to adjust the right side. I loosened and removed the bolt where the pedal shaft attaches to the camshaft shaft, used plenty of penetrating oil, hit with a hammer and it would not move. Is this connection keyed? One more question, how loose should the brake camshaft be within the hole that goes through the backing plate? The shaft can move up and down about a 1/4" in each direction and the shoes do not contact the cam . I have a few photos and short video, but not sure how to send them if needed. Any help will be appreciated.
@@account11455 that pedal is keyed to the brake camshaft. Only way to adjust the right brake is to turn the star wheel adjuster to bring pedal height up. I never filmed it but I have a set of shoes that I had on my 861 that I tried putting on the 4000 that were not made correctly. No matter how much I adjusted them the pedal wouldn't come up. Where the pins are at the front wasn't machined enough and the shoes never set down onto the camshaft. Swapped shoes and problems was fixed. The cams in the backing plate hole will move up and down quite a bit but the shoes should center it in the hole. Once adjusted properly the shoes should be touching the camshafts pretty much all across the T shaped end, a 1/16" gap is ok. If not shoes need some grinding where that pins go.
@@chickenhousemechanic leaving work now, go home and change clothes, and start checking this. Thanks again!
@@chickenhousemechanic You are right, it looks like some grinding on the hole will be the best option...will let you know how it ends. At first I was thinking of building up the cam block and grinding smooth, but it does not seem to be the easiest way.
I have brake piles and both big and small. Makes life easier
Antiz really keeps it free and turns easy
You are the best my friend
Excellent video, watched it and did the brakes on my 60 Ford tractor. Well done Sir.
Done them on my 601 maybe 7-8 years ago. Need to break down and buy a set of drums and new shoes. Would improve braking.
Thankyou. Restoring a 541 Offset and this helps a lot.
You're welcome. I hope to have a 541 or 2000 offset one of these days. Dont really have much use for one but I think they're cool tractors.
It was a hard to see the parts as they were not illuminated, but in shadow. I followed your audio and that helps, thanks.
The shoes have gotten high now and I got the ribits but only need the lining is all
Hi CHM, thank you for listing the years that the video covers with the 1960 Fordson dexta I really appreciate it and being old I have all the tools required for old style brakes now I know yo mentioned the part number but could you link it also thank you
Hardware kit:
www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-801_Brake-Repair-Kit_NCA2250.html
Brake shoes:
www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-801_Brake-Shoe-with-Lining-Pack-of-2-Shoes_NCA2218B.html
Each part does 1 side so you'll need 2 of each to do both sides.
@@chickenhousemechanic thats great Thank you
Any idea what the OEM number is for the drums? I keep seeing two different numbers popping up online and I don't know which is the correct fit. Plus, the new drums have a slightly different appearance than the old.
Original part number is NCA-1126-A. These have been superceded to 86533415. From pictures I believe these to be cast iron where the originals were steel. Thats most likely the reason they look different.
@@chickenhousemechanic thanks very much
Hello, where did you buy the spare parts for Ford Tractor brake install and adjustment 1955-1964, help me urgently
Mostly ebay. Had to buy the ratchets from a tractor junkyard since they were rowcrop specific.
On my 53 NAA/Jubilee I needed a lot more friction than that to get the brakes working properly. Different brake mechanism slightly though. More like an 8N
I tell them to take 2 pictures first once the drum is off 😊😊😊
I have a 4000 row crop diesel my throttle won't stay put it constantly drifts down in rpms. How do I fix it ?
The only spring on the throttle linkage is at the bottom of the touch rod. It may be broken. There is also a friction disk under the battery. That is most likely the issue. You can probably just tighten the nut a little on top of the friction disk if the disc is still there and in ok condition. If neither of those repairs the issue you may have an injection pump issue.
Do those old brakes have asbestos in them?
Not sure when asbestos was phased out on brakes for tractors but I would treat them as if they did to be safe.
Yep I have just lining and ribits
There really old but still will work fine
You cant see details because you have no light on brake assembly.
Enjoyed your video except for the old rummie panhandling at the start babbling about malarkey.