Great job! I can’t wait to see the rest of this build. I have a pit in my garage but would love to install a lift. Looking forward to seeing your design.
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I like to take a different view at things and see if I can come up with something different or ad a function we have been missing. Sometimes I just discover why they do it the way they do and its the best way. Either way there is something to discover. I am going to start building forms this weekend and laying rebar.
I want one in my residential garage. I plan on ripping out the original floor as there is cracks. I drive ready mix and get discounts from my company and know guys that will help out. I would put a lip around it to fit a steel plate to cover it when im not using it
The elevator floor will be up when not in use and strong enough to withstand being driven on. No need for panels. I am going to install a angle iron lip for protecting the concrete lip.
Doing my own research on having a below ground pit and you should know that one of the biggest issues to worry about is ventilation. If you spill gas down there (or have carbon monoxide from the exhaust when you pull it in) know that they are heavier than air. Incidents have happened when a spark light gas fumes in the pit and caused giant explosions and blue flames coming from the pit. Research this the problem exists and is dangerous. Good luck building yours
I was at an area out in the country that was hard compacted sand. The driving back and forth is definitely what loosens up the terrain. I dug a temporary trench and was able to replace my oil cooler lines on my van and boy what a difference that made, Theres literally a dozen golden reasons why a pit or lift is a better way to operate. For me i'm starting to get upset with how im doing it now out in the parking lot on my back. I love my apartment and its great simple living but I have been doing alot of repairs under there and its a nightmare! I am trying to contemplate some solutions.
I did appartment repairs in college also. Not fun. And you get an audience lol. I'll never go back. I have to busy of a mind and need space to build. If I was building a new shop it would be a lift. The ceiling could be tall enough. This one has 10 ft ceilings. Being 6'5 and having a giant truck. That doesn't go very far. To get me off the floor.
Giving your caving in issues some more thought, I have a cheap solution you might find helpful... Ever hear of a Yankee basement? A long time ago, homes often had dirt walls in their basements. The dirt only had a thin layer of stucco to hold the dirt in place. And they would last actually a very long time and only needing touch up occasionally. I am toying with the idea of holding back drying out soil with wire lath from HD. It can be held in place with large U shaped bent coat hangers driven into the soil. Then skim coat it with a layer of stucco. It's doesn't have to be a real bang up job, just good enough for you to continue and not get buried alive. Another option is as you open up the hole, keep it damp and cover with plastic. The lath might be a bit overkill, but at 13bucks a sheet, 100bucks would probably be enough for your project. Stucco is running about 8bucks for an 80lb bag. It doesn't need to be thick. Just enough to cover the lath should do it.
Interesting thoughts. Maybe if there wasn't the sand fill. The thing that makes this dirt wall different is that heavy vehicles are going to roll back and forth massaging the soil out from the cincrete slab. I want the concrtete wall to provide strength so the slab doesn't break apart also.
Some sensible thinking here, I like the pumps area as in a potential escape space. Also allow for so extra ducting and the potential for cables and also exhausting potential spilt LPG and CO2 Has that GM got a Cummins it? Do you have a gooseneck trailer too?
The big issue you are going to have is the height. Do the math and see what the force is at the bottom. To play it safe and not have to get stupid on lumber bracing, I would suggest you pour those walls in 2 lifts. Say 4 ft for the first pour and then the rest a few hrs later. Whats the plan for the floor? Hope you got a great deal on rebar, because you are going to need a ton of it. I'm looking at probably 8" spacing tied into the existing slabs, down the walls, across the bottom and back up the other side. Call your local pool guys and find out about having them blow your walls after you pour your floor. Hit me up for ideas if you need to. I'm in W.Texas btw.
The cost delivery I am going to try my best to do a one shot pour. I am planning out the details. I may have to do some touch up on the floor when I set and level the metal x frame.
@@ThinkBuildTest To pour the floor and the full height of the walls in one go is going to require some serious lumber in form work.. Even at just 3-4 inches of wall thickness, you will be holding back thousands of pounds of concrete at the bottom. A few 2x4's across the width isn't going to cut it here. Your hole isn't that big, but if you have a blow out, it will still be game over. Your concrete company will understand about pouring walls in lifts. Even if it costs you an extra 300bucks to have them return a few hours later, it's money well spent.
@@jagboy69 yessir I fully understand what you are saying. Gravity and compond depth volume doesn't matter its height that increases the PSI at the bottom. The way to manage it is to divide it with surface displacement. The good thing is that I will have an equal force comming from all sides to counteract the oppositing force. I won't be holding it back with leaning posts. There is a minimum shipping cost of $671 per load weather its 1 yard or 4 yards. So where I am looking at appropriately 4 yards my cost will double to call them out twice. Hey on the brightside it may make a fantastic RUclips video pass or fail... I'm curious. What I am worrying about doing the floor in the mold is creating buoyancy. I don't want a floating coffin. I am still undecided and have to gather material. I appreciate you looking out for sure. I know I have a big metal bill coming up that in need space in the budget for.
@@ThinkBuildTest well.. your floor isn't that big and could be done by hand. Just remember to leave rebar heading up the walla and leave a key around the edges. Then, you will have no float. I saw the build video of what you are trying to replicate. That guy had large equipment and a large shop with space to maneuver; you and I dont.. So we just have to be smarter. Did you catch my email address? drop me a line. You tube dumps links these days.
Great way to do it.
Thanks man. Its going to start taking shape and I can get the final details worked out.
Great job! I can’t wait to see the rest of this build. I have a pit in my garage but would love to install a lift. Looking forward to seeing your design.
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I like to take a different view at things and see if I can come up with something different or ad a function we have been missing. Sometimes I just discover why they do it the way they do and its the best way. Either way there is something to discover. I am going to start building forms this weekend and laying rebar.
I want one in my residential garage. I plan on ripping out the original floor as there is cracks. I drive ready mix and get discounts from my company and know guys that will help out. I would put a lip around it to fit a steel plate to cover it when im not using it
The elevator floor will be up when not in use and strong enough to withstand being driven on. No need for panels. I am going to install a angle iron lip for protecting the concrete lip.
Doing my own research on having a below ground pit and you should know that one of the biggest issues to worry about is ventilation. If you spill gas down there (or have carbon monoxide from the exhaust when you pull it in) know that they are heavier than air. Incidents have happened when a spark light gas fumes in the pit and caused giant explosions and blue flames coming from the pit. Research this the problem exists and is dangerous. Good luck building yours
Yes very good information! Sounds like a bilge pump and vent are in order when the lights get turned on.
I was at an area out in the country that was hard compacted sand. The driving back and forth is definitely what loosens up the terrain.
I dug a temporary trench and was able to replace my oil cooler lines on my van and boy what a difference that made, Theres literally a dozen golden reasons why a pit or lift is a better way to operate. For me i'm starting to get upset with how im doing it now out in the parking lot on my back. I love my apartment and its great simple living but I have been doing alot of repairs under there and its a nightmare! I am trying to contemplate some solutions.
I did appartment repairs in college also. Not fun. And you get an audience lol. I'll never go back. I have to busy of a mind and need space to build. If I was building a new shop it would be a lift. The ceiling could be tall enough. This one has 10 ft ceilings. Being 6'5 and having a giant truck. That doesn't go very far. To get me off the floor.
Giving your caving in issues some more thought, I have a cheap solution you might find helpful... Ever hear of a Yankee basement? A long time ago, homes often had dirt walls in their basements. The dirt only had a thin layer of stucco to hold the dirt in place. And they would last actually a very long time and only needing touch up occasionally. I am toying with the idea of holding back drying out soil with wire lath from HD. It can be held in place with large U shaped bent coat hangers driven into the soil. Then skim coat it with a layer of stucco. It's doesn't have to be a real bang up job, just good enough for you to continue and not get buried alive. Another option is as you open up the hole, keep it damp and cover with plastic. The lath might be a bit overkill, but at 13bucks a sheet, 100bucks would probably be enough for your project. Stucco is running about 8bucks for an 80lb bag. It doesn't need to be thick. Just enough to cover the lath should do it.
Interesting thoughts. Maybe if there wasn't the sand fill. The thing that makes this dirt wall different is that heavy vehicles are going to roll back and forth massaging the soil out from the cincrete slab. I want the concrtete wall to provide strength so the slab doesn't break apart also.
Some sensible thinking here, I like the pumps area as in a potential escape space. Also allow for so extra ducting and the potential for cables and also exhausting potential spilt LPG and CO2 Has that GM got a Cummins it? Do you have a gooseneck trailer too?
GM is Duramax 6.6. They are an isuzu motor. I have a 40 ft 5th wheel toy hauler. It is on a different video about trailer on a trailer
I like your way of thinking !
Thanks! Appreciate the comment.
The big issue you are going to have is the height. Do the math and see what the force is at the bottom. To play it safe and not have to get stupid on lumber bracing, I would suggest you pour those walls in 2 lifts. Say 4 ft for the first pour and then the rest a few hrs later. Whats the plan for the floor? Hope you got a great deal on rebar, because you are going to need a ton of it. I'm looking at probably 8" spacing tied into the existing slabs, down the walls, across the bottom and back up the other side. Call your local pool guys and find out about having them blow your walls after you pour your floor. Hit me up for ideas if you need to. I'm in W.Texas btw.
The cost delivery I am going to try my best to do a one shot pour. I am planning out the details. I may have to do some touch up on the floor when I set and level the metal x frame.
We are in Amarillo.
@@ThinkBuildTest To pour the floor and the full height of the walls in one go is going to require some serious lumber in form work.. Even at just 3-4 inches of wall thickness, you will be holding back thousands of pounds of concrete at the bottom. A few 2x4's across the width isn't going to cut it here. Your hole isn't that big, but if you have a blow out, it will still be game over. Your concrete company will understand about pouring walls in lifts. Even if it costs you an extra 300bucks to have them return a few hours later, it's money well spent.
@@jagboy69 yessir I fully understand what you are saying. Gravity and compond depth volume doesn't matter its height that increases the PSI at the bottom. The way to manage it is to divide it with surface displacement. The good thing is that I will have an equal force comming from all sides to counteract the oppositing force. I won't be holding it back with leaning posts. There is a minimum shipping cost of $671 per load weather its 1 yard or 4 yards. So where I am looking at appropriately 4 yards my cost will double to call them out twice. Hey on the brightside it may make a fantastic RUclips video pass or fail... I'm curious.
What I am worrying about doing the floor in the mold is creating buoyancy. I don't want a floating coffin. I am still undecided and have to gather material. I appreciate you looking out for sure. I know I have a big metal bill coming up that in need space in the budget for.
@@ThinkBuildTest well.. your floor isn't that big and could be done by hand. Just remember to leave rebar heading up the walla and leave a key around the edges. Then, you will have no float. I saw the build video of what you are trying to replicate. That guy had large equipment and a large shop with space to maneuver; you and I dont.. So we just have to be smarter. Did you catch my email address? drop me a line. You tube dumps links these days.
I poured my floor (dry ) used roller brush to level(misted every day )
Interesting. I would like to have seen that!
shore that up 1st
Check!
Very nice!
Thanks!