Doug Robinson - Father of clean climbing gives away the dirty secrets

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  • Опубликовано: 28 окт 2024

Комментарии • 210

  • @HowNOT2
    @HowNOT2  3 года назад +18

    See part 1 of this interview at ruclips.net/video/b45OXWG3kzQ/видео.html
    Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

  • @jonathang.1502
    @jonathang.1502 3 года назад +206

    Man, I want this sort of interview with all the legends. Hell, get some of the modern day greats, if you can. Someday we'll want to be able to look back at a couple hours of Tommy just talking.

    • @jake-gd8rb
      @jake-gd8rb 3 года назад +2

      That would be awesome maybe he could get Alec honald the guy that did the movie about climbing el cap......i cant help it I keep laughing about them talking about putting nuts in cracks and pounding it harder the more scared they got lmao😂😂😂 how are they not laughing at the same thing??the innuendo is killing me omg....still tho I am really enjoying the old school stories

    • @idhatemet00
      @idhatemet00 3 года назад +1

      @@jake-gd8rb alex honnold* awesome history lesson shout out doug

    • @RTmadnesstoo
      @RTmadnesstoo 2 года назад

      @@jake-gd8rb They're not laughing because at the time it was Very Serious.

    • @SikConVicTioN
      @SikConVicTioN 2 года назад +1

      People like Tommy and Alex aren't really legends, the old heads that have been climbing there whole life are a lot more interesting talking to they are way more humble..
      I live very close to tommy in Boulder Colorado, ran into him handful of times. He's actually not that interesting to talk to

    • @Nightwishmaster
      @Nightwishmaster Год назад +2

      ​@@SikConVicTioN They're definitely legends, if not yet one day they will be which was the point. Have you ever seen videos of Tommy? He obviously has some kind of social anxiety or something, look at the way in The Dawn Wall he told Kevin he wanted to wait for him, as they said in "classic Tommy fashion" where he had a hard time saying it but Kevin still knew what he meant. Maybe he just wasn't comfortable opening up to some random person he ran into? That doesn't mean he doesn't have amazing stories for days, he just didn't want to share them with you.

  • @aksunai-99
    @aksunai-99 Год назад +9

    This man is a treasure. Huge props to Ryan for an interview that will be valued by climbers for 100 years.

  • @mr.bluesky3007
    @mr.bluesky3007 3 года назад +87

    My dad subscribed to National Geographic back in the 70's. As a young teenager I was enthralled by this issue! After high school graduation in '79, by buddy & I packed my old mustang & headed west to find out what this was all about. We took to the dirtbag climbing lifestyle like ants to a hole, and the result was some of the most enjoyable & satisfying times of my life. And yes, we bought Chouinard biners, stoppers, & hexes as our first gear. Thanks so much for sharing this!

    • @RTmadnesstoo
      @RTmadnesstoo 2 года назад +3

      Same story a couple years earlier. Have you still got any of that old gear? Mine is hanging in the basement next to the door like it's ready to go. Wish I was.

    • @scottrobertson1235
      @scottrobertson1235 2 года назад +2

      took my first leader fall on a number 4 hex, back in 1978!

  • @jgrrv686
    @jgrrv686 3 года назад +31

    Wow it's crazy that this video is an entire hour and is NEVER uninteresting for a second. Guys like Doug are a true treasure of the climbing community. Please more content like this.

  • @quinkuechenmeister6375
    @quinkuechenmeister6375 3 года назад +51

    Every climber should watch this to understand the incredible history of this sport!

    • @johnlaine6259
      @johnlaine6259 3 года назад +2

      Yes they should!🤠

    • @harveylyons5516
      @harveylyons5516 3 года назад +2

      ruclips.net/video/6NBdLNw4ULw/видео.html

    • @johnlaine6259
      @johnlaine6259 3 года назад

      @@harveylyons5516 That's a classic!

  • @RockClimberAlex
    @RockClimberAlex 3 года назад +4

    What a wholesome dude!

  • @natetronn
    @natetronn 3 года назад +27

    Seeing how excited Doug is to climb 5.8 on Ewall and having to put his shoes on to do it might just be the highlight of the last few years for me. Radical.

  • @khananiel-joshuashimunov4561
    @khananiel-joshuashimunov4561 2 года назад

    I don't really watch your videos, and don't do any climbing. But whenever I see Doug, I click on the video. I can listen to that man talk forever.

  • @thecma3
    @thecma3 3 года назад +13

    I recently inherited a rack of old friends from an ex-Yosemite climber, ca. mid-late 90's. I re-slung them with dyneema and they're on my rack now. Save for the rigid stem, they're every bit as bomber as any modern cam I've used. They're not even exceptionally heavy. Truly fantastic pieces of gear.

  • @camilocarrillo2132
    @camilocarrillo2132 3 года назад +5

    the sound of the piton was legendary, and the old man swinging the hammer and telling stories with that kid smile on the face, full of nostalgia but still enjoying the climb...I felt like I got to share with my granpa for 2 hrs, Doug is just awesome and inspiring human being!

  • @szabolcskiraly6323
    @szabolcskiraly6323 Год назад +1

    The crown jewel of your videos Ryan. This interview is priceless. We' ve learned lots of kNs of all your other stuff as well 😊 Cool man. Thank you. Keep on the good work. Safety first 😊

  • @kf6948
    @kf6948 3 года назад +6

    Thankyou Doug for your time and knowledge! Long may you climb 5.7!

  • @DavidSherwoodPhoto
    @DavidSherwoodPhoto 3 года назад +5

    I rarely think to like/comment on RUclips but I am doing both to say this whole interview was EXCELLENT. Most interviews with OGs and modern climbers alike are super scripted - you can tell this was totally honest. We need more!!!

  • @rafsonpodczele
    @rafsonpodczele 3 года назад +8

    it is worth listening to the elders who want to share their knowledge and experience, especially those who are so kind and happy with what they have lived and experienced. regards

  • @cheyannei5983
    @cheyannei5983 3 месяца назад

    What a lovely interview with Mr. Clean!

  • @k.moyers4746
    @k.moyers4746 2 года назад +1

    I was there in the Gunks, early 70’s. Never used a hammer. I am overwhelmed with nostalgia. Wish I could still climb!

  • @fire4trails127
    @fire4trails127 3 года назад +6

    What an awesome compilation with a legend! As someone who’s only three years into climbing… in my mid to late forty’s… I got into this sport much later in life. He’s an inspiration to us older climbers and still climbing at his age! And the history he shares is nothing short of amazing. Thank you guys for doing this!

  • @ClimbingEasy
    @ClimbingEasy 3 года назад +11

    I love how you can track the progression of climbing based off of technology used. Hearing this legend talk is the definition of awesome; because I am awestruck.
    Also can't agree more about the assessment of 5.7; as my name would suggest. Thank you Ryan and the how not to team! This hits in the crossroads of my personal passions; history and climbing.

  • @hygri
    @hygri 3 года назад +8

    Legendary content... I reckon this video will be around at least as long as Doug's sand cast stopper

  • @aaronredd5794
    @aaronredd5794 2 года назад +1

    This is honestly the coolest guy! What a legend!

  • @brandonjelinek8963
    @brandonjelinek8963 3 года назад +3

    Crazy good job on this one guys. Doug rocks because he not only is part of the beginning but has also grown and adapted to the new stuff. Old and young alike should learn from this example. The way we did it, is not the only way to do it. The way it is being done is not they way it will be done in the future. Adapt and be open to new ways of being safe and you too will be alive to climb well into you 60s and 70s and maybe 80s and beyond. Stay safe out there and long live the "stopper."

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  3 года назад +1

      We couldn't agree more. We love Doug's examole of support and mentorship throughout his long climbing and guiding career.

  • @miikkatervonen3699
    @miikkatervonen3699 3 года назад +4

    This is totally golden! What a lovely gentleman! Nice to hear such a nice OG telling what he witnessed as a climber during times when climbing evolved so much! Thank you guys!

  • @DoubleDRescueSled
    @DoubleDRescueSled Год назад +1

    Thank you for producing such great content…!!!
    This in-depth sit down with the legendary Doug Robinson is priceless.
    I have learned so much from your channel “howNOT2” and have applied many of the nuggets of wisdom to my own patented rescue craft invention.
    Hope to cross paths some day Ryan…🙏🏻

  • @atmourad
    @atmourad 2 года назад +1

    LOVED these interviews. Thanks for filming and sharing!

  • @berryreading4809
    @berryreading4809 3 года назад +15

    I've been subscribed for a hot minute and have always enjoyed all of the content, but this series with Doug definitely ranks at the top of my favorite HowNot2 videos! Thanks everyone involved for making this happen 🙏 👍

  • @scoo73r
    @scoo73r 2 года назад +1

    This is one of the best interviews I have watched. This should be required watching for any climber.

  • @christinel6616
    @christinel6616 2 года назад

    Geez. That interview sure brought back memories. I still have most of the items he showed stashed in my garage.

  • @kingofthebums
    @kingofthebums 3 года назад +15

    Doug is the coolest! I have my fingers crossed for a whole series of these videos. More with Doug but also other guys. I especially like the bit about the testing.
    I know you're going some new directions with the channel. I hope this interview style is one of them.
    I'm not saying stop the rest just maybe sprinkle these in.

    • @RTmadnesstoo
      @RTmadnesstoo 2 года назад

      Maybe if you can't get the OGs in person you could get them on Zoom. That would be So Great!

  • @kevinturner6621
    @kevinturner6621 2 года назад +1

    Good interview, showing all the early kit that I grew up using in the UK with hex nuts and stoppers. No friends etc in those days. To this day I have a crack-n-up on my keyring.

  • @johnnorris1457
    @johnnorris1457 3 года назад +3

    When I first hit Yosemite with the then new Fires, it seemed like all the cliff faces took a few degrees back from vertical, especially the Apron. It was an odd time, with tech making such a difference even to simple bouldering. Thanks so much for taking the time to get Doug on film and putting it out there.

  • @say_goodnight7342
    @say_goodnight7342 Год назад

    I don't even do any climbing at all, but listening to this legend's tales has me captivated.

  • @TheScropley
    @TheScropley 3 года назад +4

    I still have my 72 Chouinard catalog. A few years younger than Doug, Doug’s article was my climbing bible.

  • @DerekHardwick
    @DerekHardwick 3 года назад +1

    I know less people are going to watch this long video, which is a shame, since it may be the best one. So awesome to hang out with Doug virtually and hear his stories.

  • @Papershields001
    @Papershields001 3 года назад +2

    This guy is a total legend. So awesome to see the direct connection to climbing history.

  • @kilianhzh
    @kilianhzh 2 года назад +1

    what an amazing interview. So lovely :)

  • @HamishBarker
    @HamishBarker Год назад +1

    I have that Nat Geo issue! So nice to see doug talk about living and making the clean revolution.

  • @philwestmoreland8127
    @philwestmoreland8127 3 года назад +3

    So cool to get more of the history of clean climbing from Doug. Also, so special is the credit Doug gives to Ray Jardine who revolutionized climbing and backpacking.

  • @dlloyd46
    @dlloyd46 3 года назад +3

    I'm 75 and still doing 10s due to bolts, another subject that requires discussion, but I don't like to fall!
    Indoor gyms also have revolutionized climbing, turned out lots of new climbers who climb hard right away.

  • @NoName-OG1
    @NoName-OG1 3 года назад +5

    Love this! I first learned climbing in the Boy Scouts in the 70’s from old climbers as troop leaders who would be this guys age or older. Who also predated most gear, or and wide availability of it. Technology and techniques were vastly different.
    I remember - Smearing in Chuck Taylor’s as a kid - as a new thing - as opposed to hiking boots. Still using real nuts. Rappelling on 3 wraps of rope on the spine of a D-carabiner.
    Lots of trips go southern New Hampshire from Boston - With guys who saw much of the new gear as unnecessary or expensive. When REI came to Boston is when things started to change - when much of the things change where gear didn’t need to be mail ordered. It was the first time many of these guys had ever been exposed to a lot of the gear of the day that was being used in the west. And “trust” of gear took some time to change. And likely due to this man. And likely those troop leaders reading those articles in National Geographic.
    THANK YOU FOR INTERVIEWING HIM!

  • @brianrodman1033
    @brianrodman1033 3 года назад +4

    Best new video(s) I’ve had the pleasure of watching. Such an incredible tour through the history of clean climbing gear and techniques. Thank you to all who made this video happen and most of all a giant thank you to Doug Robinson. You’re a gentleman and a scholar. Really appreciate the trip through time and most of all my sincerest thanks for developing some of the gear that has allowed me to have the most incredible experiences on California’s granite cliffs and Utah’s sandstone canyon walls. As much as cams are the preferred clean protection stoppers will always be the foundation of my rack.

  • @zenfishn
    @zenfishn 3 года назад +1

    Haven't finished this video yet and it is by far my favorite RUclips video of all time!!!!

  • @dannyswayze2133
    @dannyswayze2133 3 года назад +2

    Amazing to see this man's perspective and respect for nature, along with everyone that he meets.
    A very forward thinking individual.

  • @TheRedWon
    @TheRedWon 3 года назад +2

    What an awesome interview! I can tell by the look on your face throughout that you think this history is as cool as I do. Thanks for the video, and special thanks to Doug.

  • @adamwilkinson6679
    @adamwilkinson6679 3 года назад +1

    Doug is so cool. Great interview Ryan

  • @peterlansdale1793
    @peterlansdale1793 Год назад

    A living legend with an incredible memory and solid ethics. Looking forward to reading his book and writings.

  • @markhwebster
    @markhwebster 2 года назад +1

    I'm late to the party, but thanks for making this! I still climb with some stoppers and friends I bought in 1977. My #4 friend is a useful size at Indian Creek. Getting in the flow, or *zone* is why I still love to climb. My younger partners laugh at me when I say: *Friends don't let friends climb elevens*...but Doug knows. White haired climbers are thin on the ground, but we're still out there getting after it.

  • @Naimed1983
    @Naimed1983 3 года назад +2

    This is gold!

  • @jon4739
    @jon4739 3 года назад +2

    This right here just like the first episode is climbing history treasure. Thank you for getting this down in digital. This history needs to be recorded in every way possible. And notice Doug Robinson is so gracious and humble which I believe is because he believes and loves clean climbing so much that the culture/sport is what it is about and not solo credit or ego. I am a better human for watching this :) As an aside I remember the first time I fell on a .5 friend in the 80s and was terrified LOL! That little sucker held like nobody's business in an overhanging crack!!! Just the first of many falls on those things :)

  • @raganusmc
    @raganusmc 3 года назад +2

    You guys should do interviews like this more often. I loved it!

  • @johnpetry2541
    @johnpetry2541 3 года назад +2

    Man…this brought back memories! My first clean climb was in the Gunks (Bitchy Virgin). I lost my Gunks guide in a flood, but I think it was around ’79 or ’80. My lead just about spit on any pins/bolts as we climbed. He was devoted to “clean.” Ironically, for sentimental reasons, this week I just cleaned all the rust off my old Lost Arrow pitons, my bongs (marked with a diamond and a C inside), some SMC stuff that was half bong, half piton, etc.. Still have my hammer, but it has not been used (for climbing) since that first clean climb in the Gunks.
    Met Yvonne once in a tiny bar in a little town near the Gunks. He showed us how he could fold a bottle cap from a beer bottle in half between his index and middle finger at the 1st knuckle. To say I was impressed would be an understatement. We stopped at the Roscoe diner on the way back to Ithaca (NY) and lots of climbers were there talking about meeting Chouinard that weekend. I still have my Royal Robbins books (Basic & Advanced Rockcraft and Wheelock’s “Ropes, Knots, and Slings for Climbers” too! Injuries stopped my climbing days. But I can still remember stopping on a 2nd pitch in the Gunks on a gorgeous fall day and looking back over my shoulder at an airplane in the valley flying well below me. It was awesome! Thanks Doug et al!

  • @beautyofsylence
    @beautyofsylence 3 года назад +2

    This was so cool. I was named after Galen Rowell so extra fun hearing these stories!

  • @alensindicic
    @alensindicic 3 года назад +1

    Doug is such an awesome guy. Thank you for this :)

  • @jamiemcbarron
    @jamiemcbarron 3 года назад +3

    Amazing end to an amazing interview

  • @dayo546
    @dayo546 3 года назад +1

    I want to still be climbing when I'm his age. The way he describe the flow state is awesome!

  • @dave_h_8742
    @dave_h_8742 3 года назад +2

    Great interview, great guy with great story's.

  • @randydewees7338
    @randydewees7338 2 года назад +1

    I've been aware of Doug since I started climbing in 1973. But I didn't know how instrumental he was in the development of the gear I used. I purchased my first rack from the Mountain People (or Mountain Affair - Dave and Dennis!) up in Idyllwild. The old days of you and your partner going up the approach trail to Tahquitz, one carrying the 150 foot rope, the other with the gear sling with the single rack of Stoppers and Hexes, clanking together with gentle bell tones. One small teardrop pack with a couple of shirts and a quart of water for the two of us. Once in a while in that first year or two I'd hear a hammer in action, I assume on the remaining aid lines. I miss those simple (but scary!) days, I still have my old rack.

  • @elilivezey7884
    @elilivezey7884 3 года назад +2

    I feel like I just hung out in the woods with a legend!

  • @nopro_films
    @nopro_films 3 года назад +3

    Super great content!! He's such an inspiration with his enthusiasm, i wish i can get old like he managed to do!

  • @RTmadnesstoo
    @RTmadnesstoo 2 года назад +1

    Wow, I want more! I just came from Part One and this is better!
    When he pulled that Catalog out the hair on my arms stood up. I still have it and the Pamphlet John Stannard wrote. When I was in High School I was pouring through those books and that National Geographic just dying for the weekend. Seneca Rocks in West Virginia! The Gunks in the Summer! Mount Desert Island on the Coast.
    Climbing in Mountain Boots I saw my first EBs in Yosemite in '74. He wasn't kidding about being narrow but I've got fat feet. I borrowed a pair and got in with a couple guys to climb the Steck-Salathe Route he keeps talking about. I still dream of it sometimes. So Special!
    I had to leave my Crack N' Up in Little River Canyon after I fell on it and had nothing to get it out. When I went back it was gone.
    Thanks So Much for this! I would Really Appreciate More if you can get it. Even the stuff you edited out. Thanks again!

  • @lesteve3
    @lesteve3 3 года назад +2

    These Doug Robinson interviews are the best thing you guys have done. Love the content, keep it up!

  • @ole7282
    @ole7282 3 года назад +2

    I've been following your channel for quite some time now, skipped just a few episodes, and liked most of them. I was halfway through this great episode and I really couldn't find a reason why I just spent 5 bucks on a cup of coffee but wouldn't do the same for whole hour of fun and great climbing knowledge. Felt great to sign up on your patreon page!

  • @mikaelwerner1
    @mikaelwerner1 3 года назад +2

    Brilliant!

  • @mikea2626
    @mikea2626 3 года назад +2

    This was probably the coolest interview I’ve ever seen. So much interesting history that I’d never heard before. The channel is awesome keep it up!

  • @Yaimdan
    @Yaimdan 3 года назад +2

    What a legend!

  • @nolan8226
    @nolan8226 Год назад +1

    awesome interview to sit down and pay attention to, I must say, i have youtube adhd where i listen to most videos at 2x speed and i sat down at enjoyed this video normally from start to finish. I'm glad we got to hear the old school piton sound he was talking about earlier, i was a little worried it had been forgotten about. Also did he ever do the interview with john stannard? i'd love to see that meeting finally take place

  • @dan-dan-da-treeman
    @dan-dan-da-treeman 2 года назад

    Excellent hang out guys.❤️🤙

  • @benviolot8116
    @benviolot8116 2 года назад +1

    This whole interview was just riveting, thanks so much for putting it out there.

  • @cooperspace90
    @cooperspace90 3 года назад +1

    This is awesome
    Thx Doug!!

  • @logostanar
    @logostanar 3 года назад +2

    Thank you guys for doing these interviews. Awesome content, I love listening to people like Mr. Robinson who had gathered an amazing amount of experience and also are such great storytellers. Please continue to record everything he has to say.

  • @grandolph9281
    @grandolph9281 3 года назад +1

    Just awesome, even talked about clean climbing in the Gunks too. Loved every minute of it!

  • @JerryGarciaPOBox
    @JerryGarciaPOBox 3 года назад +1

    50:45 worth the price of admission.
    Great interview! 👍🏼

  • @shLSS
    @shLSS 3 года назад +1

    What an amazing, inspiring and funny person. Thank you so much for these interview videos!

  • @blacksmith67
    @blacksmith67 Год назад

    I am not nor will ever be a climber... I found this channel because I have an interest in knots. But I have to say I am fascinated.

  • @mattray2952
    @mattray2952 2 года назад

    This is super-awesome! Thanks Doug 🤟

  • @maxmaeser1001
    @maxmaeser1001 3 года назад +1

    Amazing interview series guys! loved it!

  • @samweiss3248
    @samweiss3248 3 года назад +1

    Another great interview and gear demo! I'd love to see Doug Robinson and John Stannard on this channel swapping stories. The more climbing legends on here the merrier!

  • @VanningAintNoJoke
    @VanningAintNoJoke 3 года назад +1

    Another great interview!

  • @tylernelson637
    @tylernelson637 10 месяцев назад

    Amazing. What history nuggets. Best ever.

  • @jacobgaylord9277
    @jacobgaylord9277 3 года назад +1

    What a fantastic wealth of knowledge, great interview!

  • @gleneverett9728
    @gleneverett9728 2 года назад

    As usual thanks for the contribution to the climbing community and let the trolls try to complain about this kind of action from your channel you guys are the bomb

  • @mattsoukup1789
    @mattsoukup1789 3 года назад +13

    Since he mentioned it in the interview and I'm curious now, have you done any kind of testing on ice pro? I'd imagine testing ice pro would be a bit harder to do, and the limit is the ice and how deep the screw goes as opposed to the actual gear, and the mentality in ice climbing is definitely still "don't fall," but that'd be really cool to see!

  • @bartscave
    @bartscave Год назад +1

    I still have my rack of chouinard pitons and hexentrics (and stopper of course)! And an old pair of EBs and PAs…

  • @KirstenBayes
    @KirstenBayes 2 года назад

    That was terrific, really good interview.

  • @arishtat66
    @arishtat66 Год назад

    Interview with Yvon Chouinard would be awesome.

  • @ogtn
    @ogtn 3 года назад +1

    Absolutely amazing interview. That was just perfect.
    Huge thank to Doug for sharing those stories. So much passion in his speech makes it a delight to listen to.
    I can only hope I'll be that enthusiastic about climbing at his age.

  • @outsidereids
    @outsidereids 3 года назад +1

    Nice Interview, what a genuine and interesting person Doug is. Thanks for great content

  • @sendit2873
    @sendit2873 2 года назад

    Doug is one special guy Ryan you guys are so lucky would love to hang out and talk with him thank you so much for this video will be around for a long time

  • @stephenr80
    @stephenr80 3 года назад +1

    My last 2 routes in Montserrat have been almost clean scary stuff. When you start doing that you cant stop. Clean!!

  • @LoveAndClimbing
    @LoveAndClimbing 2 года назад +1

    I feel like this is the only time I've ever wanted to see a reaction video: I want to see a "Doug Robinson reacts to Totem cams" while he climbs something with Totems. :D

  • @fire_n_ice1984
    @fire_n_ice1984 3 года назад

    Need to interview the other oldies before it's too late. What a treat, thank you so much for this history lesson.

  • @Uri18
    @Uri18 2 года назад

    Doug is awesome, greetings from Monterrey, México.

  • @nathannelson1041
    @nathannelson1041 3 года назад +1

    You’ve put out a ton of great content, Ryan. And although this isn’t your typical video, this one was an absolute treat! Would love to hear more interviews like this from others in the old guard.

  • @mypandaman7
    @mypandaman7 3 года назад

    Doug Robinson is truly an inspiration for me

  • @Rickshaw_Bohammer
    @Rickshaw_Bohammer 3 года назад +1

    Awesome video!

  • @yandalf1819
    @yandalf1819 3 года назад

    this was soooo much fun :))) thx guys

  • @TheMetalButcher
    @TheMetalButcher 2 года назад +2

    Hearing Doug say that 5.7 is the most fun type of climbing after seeing folks doing 5.14+s that looks miserable and painful makes me feel better. I'll never be at that level, and I don't think I would enjoy it. But I can do a 5.7. And I enjoy it.

  • @DakarNick
    @DakarNick Год назад

    That's awesome! I have some Chouinard hexes and stoppers. Cool history!

  • @JonathanAylward
    @JonathanAylward 2 года назад

    This series was soooooo good. Really helpful for developing a respect for the history of this sport.

  • @averyb3717
    @averyb3717 3 года назад

    I could listen to Doug talk for days ♥️ thank you!!