Doug Robinson - OG Yosemite Climber shares history
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Doug Robinson is one of the coolest guys we know. A contemporary of Yosemite climbing greats like Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard, Doug has witnessed and been part of the growth and innovation in climbing over the last 60+ years and he was kind enough to share his stories with us.
In this interview Doug talks about climbing history, techniques and practices of the first half of the 20th century. Pitons, hemp ropes, hip belays, bowlines and "leader must not fall".
Be sure to to tune into the second interview where Doug (The father of Clean Climbing) discusses his pivotal role in the climbing ethics revolution which has shaped modern climbing around the world.
2ND HALF OF INTERVIEW IS FOUND HERE • Doug Robinson - Father...
👉 Learn and shop at www.hownot2.com/
👉 10% off Rocky Talkie by clicking
👉 Our merch is at www.hownot2swag...
👉 1000 Patrons makes us viable / hownottohighline
👉 1 time donations really help also www.paypal.com...
2ND HALF OF THIS INTERVIEW IS FOUND HERE ruclips.net/video/o4LywkHdDUM/видео.html
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
5 years of hard work building your channel was worth it just to be able to get this interview
Agreed!
After seeing other youtubers do similar type videos (on other topics), I am super appreciative of Ryan's approach of just leaning back and listening and only commenting every once in awhile, and letting Doug do 99% of the talking. Way too many other channels, the creator wouldn't have been able to resist inserting themselves into the stories and trying to make the conversation more 50/50.
Thanks. I debated even being in the video but I find it helps people treat it more like a conversation and have less stage fright. But those who came to this episode wanted to listen to him! 😀
@@HowNOT2 The setting was perfect. It felt like I was waiting in the shade at the base of the climb in the heat of the day, listening to amazing stories.
He didn't even mic himself up, just mic the guest
Yeah most YornTubers just like the sound of they're own voice, loads even edit out the gaps and breathes in between taking which makes a 15-20 min block of sold verbal sh!te. This is such a refreshing change, it was so natural, the half hour went so so quick and when the "figure of 8 knot was so interesting....." part faded off I was gutted, until the part 2 came up. Haha
Excellent stuff, without wanting to cheapen it at all, Doug is like the Yoda of North American, bet he could still out beast some younger guys today 'hes nails' as we'd say in the UK 💪
This right here is what I am talking about. Amazing hearing his perspective and story. Thank you. Notice how kind and happy he is. He is confident and happy in his life and contribution. No ego but deserving of a huge one! Thank you!
Id like to be friends with this man,i have problems focusing on people talking but i could listen to this fella all day long, he is very natural and love his stories
you can tell the difference between OG climber and the "OG highliner" in the interviews explaining the history and how torches can be passed on... LOL
Amazing person
@@inderida2000 what comes before OG term seems to modern for this guy
Love this interview. It'd be cool if you could get Doug to demonstrate some of these old techniques (with modern backup) like hip belay, pitons, rappelling, tying in, etc. I'd also love to see a drop tower video where Ryan tries to catch a 150 lb block of concrete with a hip belay!
I did Smokes Rock Course at the AAC event a few years ago, guided by Doug. We used modern rope but tied in with a bowline and did hip belays (5.easy) when necessary, great experience. Doug was a friend of Smoke's
Yeah every alpinist should be familiar with a hip belay - comes in handy for a quick belay past that one sketchy bit of exposed 4th class.
Doug's words became one of my main mantras for all of last year:
Mountaineering just means glad to be here
No climbing is required.
Simply from being in the mountains
It will arise spontaneously of itself,
For sheer joy in wild terrain.
-Doug Robinson: Palisades notebooks, 1970
This should be its own series. Would be amazing to see the old school guys telling and possibly showing you some of the technology and the way is was used back in the day .. keep up the great work.. all of the how not 2 team
Thats a v good idea i love to hear climbing stories
I'd watch that.
100% we need to hear from our climbing elders before this information becomes lost to age
Break testing old gear would be cool, but on the other hand this gear should not be destroyed.
Its so great that you got this primary source for climbing history recorded for future folks
I’ve climbed FAs by Royal Robbins out here in Prescott, AZ. Those guys were maniacs back in the day.
I really enjoyed this video, not just for Doug's stories, humor and knowledge.
But I also like how you present him, leaves space for him and ask relevant questions, also adding a few stories of your own but not to take the spotlight.
Feels more like a talk at a campfire rather than a interview, you do these type of interviews good man!
After reading about the forefathers of climbing and the tools and techniques they developed, it's a real treat to hear the stories direct from a pioneer and icon. Doug is the real deal. Kudos to Ryan for developing his relationship with Doug and setting up this interview.
Years ago I had some conversations with Doug when I purchased a prototype pack he was developing for MontBell. He was modest, generous and knowledgeable. There are stories of him skiing the John Muir Trail from Whitney Portal to Yosemite Valley as well as him setting a speed record skiing across the Sierra to Mammoth Mountain. I'd love to hear him spin those yarns.
Looking forward to Part II !
My Dad was one of those early British climbers. He’d ride his bicycle from Manchester out to N Wales for weekend climbing around Snowden. Climbed with Joe Brown and Stan Wroe. What Doug says about using a pebble as a chock is true! Edit to add: don’t remember if Doug mentioned this, but they would also just tie a knot in a loop of rope and use that as a stopper.
Both are true , I've do this and surprisingly they hold well in some types of rock ( climbing almost as long as Doug ,since 1960
Imagine just living your life and there are people like this just walking around. Amazing
So this is somewhat known, but Chouinard Equipment split and became Patagonia and Black Diamond, soft goods and hard goods. His comment about the diamond logo on the pitons makes me wonder if the BD logo we know today can trace it's lineage all the way back to John Salathe...
Totally thought of BD logo at this point in the interview.
Never climbed in my life but I could listen to this dude tell stories all day.
Love love love these kinds of talks. We need these stories and history before it's all gone. Much respect to doug. Very thankful to hear his stories. More of this please!
This some awesome history of Climbing that is under appreciated! I got to climb with him at PSOM in the 60’s.
Did some climbing Santa Barbara 1961. Thanks for the memories
Wow, what a Flashback!
I learned to climb with his books and met him in the mid 70's. I started climbing at the swami belt/figure 8 knot stage with an Army guy and his twisted nylon rope. I've still got some old Chouinard Pitons and most of a set of the first Hexcentrics.
Amazing Video! Thanks.
Same here. The last pin I placed was in Spring '72. That Fall I came back with a set of Hexes and swamis were now two inch webbing. Ropes were kernmantel though, with some goldline.
@@kid5Media Yeah, they called in 'Goldline' even though it was Army Green. I bought a Kernmantle after spinning on it a couple times.
Dude, by far the best content you've produced! Loved every bit of it, AND then reading the countless appreciative comments. There's a community right here in the comment section alone and this video brought it back to life
WOW...deja vu all over again! I took a UCB extension mountaineering course ~ 1969/70, with Robinson and Galen Rowell...I remember him as kind and patient as he taught us newbies how to rappel off a mild ledge near Camp IV in Yosemite. I can say that "I've been belayed by the great Doug Robinson". Later we practiced winter techniques on the backside of Mt. Dana...in late fall. The weather turned into a whiteout blizzard... didn't phase Doug a bit...calm and cheerful while we froze our butts off and complained.
I had no idea I had already been listening for 38 minutes by the time the video abrubtly stopped. Great job on letting Doug talk and giving his stories the space in the editing to do their thing instead of trying to condense the life out of 'em. Could listen to Doug for hours.
“John Wayne never wore LYCRA”
Hahaha classic.
Surprised no one else laughed…
I’m in my late 20’s and understand.
Caught me off guard when only Doug and I were laughing.
OMG this is going to be humbling!
Yup....I'm a wimp
Absolutely looking forward to pt2!
This is so cool!!! Getting a chance to not only hear the awesome stories and history but immortalizing it and sharing it with the world.
Can’t wait for part 2.
Just brilliant. Thanks!
Been climbing for 52 years and I still carry some of my slung pro around my neck. Easy on. Easy off.
Great to see that Doug is still out there having fun.
Thanks Doug
It's 'nuts' that GOLD like this gets "only" 50k views while 'silver' 7 second videos of how to hands-free unclip your rope gets millions of views.
Don't get me wrong, I sh*t my pants laughing with the 7 second un-clips,... but this right here... this is gold, top of the line 5 star 11 out of 10 stuff.
Keep up keeping up! Great content!!!
thank you for putting the 2nd part in the description!
edit: AND in the comment awesome
I could listen to these stories for hours. What a gem!
Great interview! Doug was already a legend when I started climbing in the mid 70's. Kudos for documenting this history.
This by far is the one of the coolest videos you’ve done! So awesome to see and hear from someone who was at the for front of Valley climbing. Great video Ryan!
Watching your video was like being in the Valley, gathered around pizza after a long day on the rock, and talking with fellow climbers. Great!
I can’t think about the titons without thinking of gabby now……. Thanks Brian
Chockstones in the 50s in the uk we’re inserted with a line sling around it with a carabiner to clip the rope. Whillans and Brown we’re not the originators of threaded nuts. Whillans laughed at the practice before rapidly converting to it. Pitons were regularly used on British rock until the 70s. Awesome interview by the way.
So cool. What a great guy.
Thanks a million for making and sharing this fantastic video, documenting this "very cool dude"!! Giving us a
small taste of the joy and privilege it must be to meet and interact with this absolute LEGEND, by accomplishments as well as by mental attitude and demeanour.
I’m fishing and I’m glad I checked youtube, sick video
I could listen for hours!
Fascinating! Thanks for sharing, Doug Robinson! Kind regards, Daniel
Wish I could like this video 100 times! Great interview.
Just great to hear these stories, just great.
I hope you have this guy on the show many more times, nothing more valuable than info from the elders
Smashing, just for Doug.
Such an amazing video, Doug's humor, the way he tells the story, the history of how far climbing has come! Just great all around. Gonna save the rest of the video for tomorrow because this is great
Yup Doug..me too. Used a Padlock as a carabiner and some hemp rope when I started. .... but now they climb indoors. Never touched a natural rock. Pity. I luv ya buddy. You are old school like me. in 1980 I asked Santa for a 150 coil of Bluewater 3 one year and when it came dad drove me and Ralph Moran Russell up to Mt Yonah. We didn't tell him it was called the Widow maker. But Ralph and I didn't die that day and climbed on...me too. I think we had the new rope and a some webbing for a Swiss seat, and maybe 3 carabiners.
Literally no equipment........But my God was it fun. I'm sure you know. You and the rock, and a thread.
I'm not climbing anymore, glad you are. I'll be up again there maybe someday. It is nice to know of you...Godfather.
... I would like to draw attention to a misstatement of fact....
... I do have to dispute the wiki ...... Sean Travis Miller was the 1st to climb the negative face at The Devil's Courthouse in NC in 1981. I can testify to this because I was his belay. He was part monkey and had Ninja-cat-like reflexes.... he fell 3 times, but made it up.
I belayed him from above and back in those days, it was just a nut-cruncher Swiss seat made of webbing. REI had just come into existence. I sourced my Blue Water 3 coil from a local shop that supplied Boy Scout troops.
Anyway...that's the TRUE story of how the first climb of the "Devil's Courthouse" happened.
That is one awesome piece of history right there. Thanks to you both!
Thanks for sharing this Doug. Yup. Before Amazon...we didn't have much. Manilla and a Padlock as a beener was how I began.
Amazing job documenting climbing history!! Thanks Ryan, Doug and everyone involved!!
Damn! I could listen to this guy all day.
I could listen to this all day
Wonderful video. Thank you for capturing this interview.
Unreal video, so cool to hear his stories of climbing greats and the history of the sport!
Cool video. The online climbing community needs more of this!
Such a fun interview! Please let Doug know that he’s the best!
This was awesome! Thanks Doug for doing this. Can't wait for the next parts.
Thank you for an amazing video! And thank Doug for his stories and his kindness! You guys really did something great here, I think. Turning youtube into a virtual camp fire.
I started watching as I was bored. Literally couldn’t stop until the end. Really incredible stories! Please keep it coming!
Man this is awesome great I want more ,he got more knowledge in his little finger ,
Thank you sir ,👍
You know you're old if you remember tying a climbing rope around your waist with a bowline, and thinking you're good to go. This would only be reasonable to do now if you're top-roping something easy and don't plan to fall. But even so, I'd still prefer to make a harness with the rope, including leg loops, but I forget how. There were 3 bights, one for your waist, 2 for the legs, and you adjusted the length before tightening. Anyone remember this knot? Good to know stuff like that for emergencies. Climbers have gotten out of hotel fires on the 10th floor with techniques like that.
Just kidding awesome work thanks for sharing can't wait for parts 2.
Love it. You should definitely do more of this
I took a week long climbing course in Yosemite and I remember the swami belt and tying in with a bowline. I also remember the hip belay. The last day of the course, we were guided up the “Great White Book”. Good memories.
This video was so well done. The content, the audio quality, smooth edits, the location, this legitimately looks professional. Excellent job, and an amazing contribution to the climbing community.
SO COOL!!
This was awesome! He reminds me of our oldtimers (mentors of climbing) in the Czech Republic, when they started climbing sandstone here (also the 40s and 50s), as a matter of fact, we never got to iron nuts :-D we still climb with knots in cracks (on sandstone). Thanks for the stories.
I think you will find that climbing in your part of the world started much earlier than you think. Try the turn of 19th to 20th century. In fact on of the leading climbers in the Elbsandstein around the 1920s was an American called Perry. That whole region is a superb climbing area. I have climbed there many times an love it.
This is so good! Love hearing about climbing history and he’s a great story teller.
What a cool guy
This is by far the best "history lesson" I had in a very long time. The perspective it gives is humbling to say the least
I really like this type of video
I would like to know the MBS of a Creekside pebble and a machine NUT with manila hemp rope, a soft shackle and a dynamic rope in real rock.
😄 Before I try it out 🌎
Btw... Loving your interview skills
(2x cameras)
Great questions, fun stories & beautiful people 🗻
This is so great! Thank you!
This is amazing to learn from his perspective and know more about the activity we love :) Thank You for this
Thank you.
it is delightful.
Great video! We'll never get enough climbing history
The Moving Over Stone Doug Robinson!
Best video ever!
What amazing content. I love hearing these stories
love how Doug remembers book names his memory is spot on just shows how much better off you are living in the mountains and not in the shity oh I mean the city
"What's lycra?" LOL It's what came after painters pants. Man, I'm old.
this is gold ❤
I am not a climber and I agree, Doug is an amazing cool guy. I watched this because of his energy and his enthusiasm and because he is the kind of 'old guy' I want to be. An excellent interview.
Absolutely lovely. Good interview technique, except the moment when he thought you were trying to trap him on the topic of factor falls! I loved the way, when he saw that wasn't your intent, how he recovered from it!
Sue, of the Chicago Mountaineering Club, once told me that her doctor asked her when she had back surgery. "Back surgery? Oh! Those scars are from belaying!"
old stories and pictures, gear and all the stuff about climbing history inspires me way more to climb and explore, than modern videos and pictures and what not
theres some spirit and fire in old stuff. modern stuff is bleak
Excellent episode! I love climbing history. Thanks!
Wow what a wonderful interview. I'd listen to another dozen of hours of this.
more of this please.
Very cool old guy i want more good old stories !:)
This is gold. Thanks for keeping this stuff alive. Legend.
Incredible content!!! Can't wait for part 2. Thank you
How is this not more the 1M views??
UBER fascinating. This is great stuff Ryan. 👍
I’m not even a climber and I really enjoyed this video.
The most I do is SRT and rappel twenty feet into a tree for whitetail hunting.
I’ve learned a lot from the channel though. Safety and backup is just as important from 20 feet as it is from 200.
I could listen to this all day!
Good to bring back memories of early climbing in Yosemite
'Mechanical advantage' substack has some great detail in this vein.