Doug, with gear and online trainings being so accessible, do you see newbies making mistakes or not taking long enough to learn before moving on to harder stuff (climbing in a gym to sport climbing to leading to trad)
I recently introduced my kids 18, 20 year old kids to this movie. Even though I am not a climber, we enjoyed it after visiting a rock climbing gym. The movie is a classic.
I'm blown away by the new Parkour-style dynamics. The moves of climbing keep evolving, and parkour-style is just the latest trend. I watch new comp videos to learn them. The upward lunges, all four limbs off the rock, are obvious clickbait. But I am drawn to the quick, often horizontal sequences that are only possible dynamically. You need to move through them quickly. It's the latest way that climbing imitates dance!@@alefaria
The footage of Croft soloing at the end is the single most influential thing in my young life. And yes, I was the guy who went out and free soloed after watching Croft solo all those pitches. Fortunately it worked out ok for me. But, I followed Croft's advice! I love this video. So many awesome segments and the narration is instant nostalgia for me. Love to see this uploaded officially.
The videos with Doug are probably my favorite videos on the channel. I don’t have any questions for you, Doug, just wanna say you’re awesome and thank you for sharing your life with us, it’s truly an honor.
Warning: name dropping ahead😅 I got a chance to climb with Peter the Great in Leavenworth before he got famous. Still my all time hero of climbing. He has had more fun than all the rest of us put together👍 I climbed at Smith with Bobbi and Stefan about the time of this film, and belayed Lynn on her onsight ascent of "Churning In the Wake", the first 5.13 onsight by a woman. It was my first 5.13, after a.lot.of work. Great time capsule, im glad and lucky to be climbing better than ever decades later.
I wore out the VHS then bought the DVD. At the time all the videos were important. First was the Basic and Advanced Rockcraft. Then the Chouinard catalog. But it was yours and Long's videos where we could see what was being done. Camalots, Boreal Fires, and your videos change climbing for me.
I grew up sewing my own runners and reading royal robbins books. Doug was a big leap forward. I hope in this age of quick low attention consumable "knowledge" that his focus on mentorship and personal relationships translates through all professions. Thanks for posting this.
Man…Thank you. All of you. This is a gem for the climbing community and it’s wonderful to know that it’s so easily available in this format. Please, do more of these. There’s so much wisdom in our sport and this is a great way to preserve and share that.
I walked away from my computer and RUclips decided to continue autoplaying videos. I come back to my computer as this movie just started and ended up just watching the entire thing. So cool to see how climbing has evolved and even how similar it was to now as well. Thanks for posting the video!
I think the whole package for me has been so helpful and moving. Watching the film itself was profound, as well as the interview with the two of you afterwards. I dont know how i came across the masters of the stone videos, but what i do know is that when i did, it changed me. I was expecting to see a bunch of old school climbers just flapping away pathetically. I never understood, nor thought about how climbing came to be what it is now until i watched those videos. Upon simply seeing these men and women interact with rock was almost a religious experience. I saw the care they gace in every foot placement, the confidence they had long fostered in themselves to climb through bold runouts, and the shear solidness that they moved through even the most shaky terrain. Learning the names, the faces, the dates, the routes, the places, the stories, and seeing it all, like how you captured it in your movie, brought to life all the history that i never thought to explore or learn about. It makes me appreciate and respect climbing at a different level. I feel a sense of community with these people every time i climb. They all give me a feeling of being mentored in a way that i didnt know was possible. I am forever in debt to each and every one of them for the routes they established, the ethic in which they did it, the time they dedicated to the art of climbing, and to the people who saw the importance of what they were doing and decided to capture it to share it with the rest of the world. It has preserved a taste, a memory, a feeling of what climbing is, has been, will be, and can always be at any time. Thank you for making your movie. It has inspired me. I know it will continue to inspire all those who watch it for generations to come.
Ryan and I have a few ideas for short, How Not 2 videos. Whenever we actually get together to make some. Maybe I could post another less-old video, "Go Wild Outside Las Vegas." There's some climbing at Red Rocks, and the rest of it is enjoying running around the desert. I forget at the moment what Ryan called them, but we shot two vids, an hour plus half an hour, of telling stories about climbing history.
Absolutely beautiful! To me it seems the wisdom of meditation is mostly lost today. I'm grateful to have seen your movie Doug, it made me ponder and answered questions I haven't asked myself yet. Best wishes from Switzerland!
Brilliant. Not often we get to see and appreciate some of the fountainhead of the sport we love. All the best Doug, thank you for your work and dedication to this sport.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I bought the video and have watched it more times than I can count. I’ve now been climbing roughly 30 years and your video has had a huge influence on my life. Thank you!!
I recall hardly any difficult clients. Maybe a couple of surgeons. Seems to take a lot of ego to be one... Fearful, though -- oh yeah! Fear of heights is ALMOST universal. The very few clients without it were the ones who worried me the most. I found myself following around behind them spotting ruthlessly. Please see my response to "@FrostyBalls01 9 days ago" for some general background. What I did to talk to clients about fear of heights is to model it out of my own experience. Speak from your own experience, of course. Here's how I would say it: "I've climbed the face of Half Dome. But if I go to the summit, the only way I can look over the edge is to get down on my belly and put just my eyes over the edge. Usually with a solid foot jam behind me. That void has power. It sucks!" "Yet to start at the bottom of the wall, tie in and begin leading, clipping into pro, you build up your rational defense against the void. You know from deep experience that the rope will hold you. And the pro will anchor the rope. And your trusty belayer can easily stop any slip. It's a system. Proven to be safer than driving on the freeway. We trust it deeply." Another part of making our whole protection system feel reasonable to climbing students is to take enough time to talk about the rope. Where did it come from in climbing history? Now we have other uses for hemp (wink). Notice that the modern climbing rope is actually THE most high-tech gear we use. Way beyond, say, cams. It's strong, sure. You could hang a pickup truck from one. But the real high tech value of it is its stretch. The US Army researched parachute harnesses and found that forces needed to stay under 2000 pounds (explain that number's relationship to Kn's) or there would start to be injuries to kidneys and backs. Modern climbing ropes stretch so much they do keep ultimate forces below that threshold. Etc, etc.
Ive never climbed but am an avid outdoorsman. Love the content. Watch it just because its amazing to see the feats you do and which were started by people like Doug. Its amazing to see him in that video and thinking how they got those shots with the technology available. Does Doug still do any climbing? I assume he is still involved with climbing via groups, etc. Regarding mentorship, I feel like that has been such a recurring theme in my life lately. A client of mine recently discussed the same thing during a lunch meeting. Having a mentor to not only teach you but to discuss and bounch ideas off of.. I wonder if there is anything climbing wise that Doug still desires or wants to achieve?
I was glued to this video, and love the combination of climbing and filming challenges involved in making a high quality film at the time - that can never be reproduced. Doug, I’m left with few questions because, as your video points out, climbing is about the experience, and any questions will be learned on the rock. Learning on the rock is the way to go, and having fun is key. I just wish there were more ways to connect with the climbing legends that are still around. There are so many stories that I would love to hear about. These videos make it possible, and document those stories for future generations. While it would be amazing to meet Doug and other climbing legends in person, thats probably not feasible on a large scale. More content like this is much appreciated!!
Seeing this brought back wonderful memories from when I started during the 1980s. I first saw Moving Over Stone a couple of years after I started climbing. We made climbing slings by tying our own using tape knots - and climbing a pitch placing the tape knots of the slings in the crack as protection. Those were the days...
I still have my well worn VHS copy of this film. A few weeks on now, but Doug, if you should happen to catch this comment - thank you. Your film taught me climbing movement in a way that books and even my climbing mentors could not - seeing some of the best in the craft doing it was a revelation. I went on to guide for a while, and passed on that learning to many others. Teaching starts a cascade of knowledge forward into the future.
Great film. I remember when it first came out, I picked it up and watched and re-watched. Great vibes. Maybe not comparable, but On The Rocks came out before this featuring John Gill, Tony Yaniro, etc. That was the first climbing film I saw and was inspired by. I had it on VHS of course.
Moved to YNP(The Valley) in 1982. The 80’s in many ways was a decade of fundamental change that the Sport stands in today EDIT: Seeing those *Fires* is extremely nostalgic. We bought our first pairs directly from John Bacher & his supplies carried in his van
Great video, Doug is awesome! No questions really but just wanted to say thanks for sharing! I have only dabbled in climbing but loved the video, it really well demonstrates a lot of techniques, with little fluff. The music and outfits were awesome, loved them.
You said to “skim through” the video. Skim nothing, I plan on watching it until I know it verbatim. Very informative. Thank you for sharing it. Really great video.
Doug!!!! Thank you for everything you're an inspiration love seeing you appreciation for this realm as well and gaining some knowledge hope your well thanks again for being you
Great video, and super educational! Thank you for sharing this amazing bit of climbing history. Doug, you mentioned how so many of the new developments in climbing have really helped push the sport into the mainstream (such as climbing gyms, the Olympics, Alex Honnold, etc) and some of the old salts were hesitant of the sports growing popularity. Is there anything you’d say should especially be maintained and passed along from the older generations as more and more people become introduced to the sport?
Around 23:00 in the segment with Lynn, she's climbing with 2 ropes, any particular reason for that? Love the movie, awesome seeing the progress of harnesses and shoes.
In traversing/wandering climbs, using two half-ropes helps you protect against a large swing, you'll effectively fall between the two bolts on either side of you. Its more common in trad climbing than sport.
I loved the whole movie! I learned on the rock, (I do enjoy gyms too) and this pays homage to the people on the cutting edge in the 80’s. You were ahead of your time…
What questions do you have for Doug? He is reading the comments!
How does he feel about the more Parkour style of climbing?
Doug, with gear and online trainings being so accessible, do you see newbies making mistakes or not taking long enough to learn before moving on to harder stuff (climbing in a gym to sport climbing to leading to trad)
I recently introduced my kids 18, 20 year old kids to this movie. Even though I am not a climber, we enjoyed it after visiting a rock climbing gym. The movie is a classic.
I'm blown away by the new Parkour-style dynamics. The moves of climbing keep evolving, and parkour-style is just the latest trend. I watch new comp videos to learn them. The upward lunges, all four limbs off the rock, are obvious clickbait. But I am drawn to the quick, often horizontal sequences that are only possible dynamically. You need to move through them quickly. It's the latest way that climbing imitates dance!@@alefaria
I don’t have a question but I just wanted to say I’m deeply grateful you made this available for all to watch easily. What a gift!
I just cannot believe how good that film was despite being so old. That was an extremely well constructed movie.
Doug you are a legend! Don't have any questions, just a greetings from Norway
The footage of Croft soloing at the end is the single most influential thing in my young life. And yes, I was the guy who went out and free soloed after watching Croft solo all those pitches. Fortunately it worked out ok for me. But, I followed Croft's advice! I love this video. So many awesome segments and the narration is instant nostalgia for me. Love to see this uploaded officially.
came for the climbing, stayed for the soundtrack🔥
The videos with Doug are probably my favorite videos on the channel. I don’t have any questions for you, Doug, just wanna say you’re awesome and thank you for sharing your life with us, it’s truly an honor.
Warning: name dropping ahead😅
I got a chance to climb with Peter the Great in Leavenworth before he got famous. Still my all time hero of climbing. He has had more fun than all the rest of us put together👍
I climbed at Smith with Bobbi and Stefan about the time of this film, and belayed Lynn on her onsight ascent of "Churning In the Wake", the first 5.13 onsight by a woman. It was my first 5.13, after a.lot.of work.
Great time capsule, im glad and lucky to be climbing better than ever decades later.
Amazing how the old video already has all the basics bit none of the fluff
I don't climb, but I watched the whole thing. It is wonderful to see people live life.
I wore out the VHS then bought the DVD. At the time all the videos were important. First was the Basic and Advanced Rockcraft. Then the Chouinard catalog. But it was yours and Long's videos where we could see what was being done. Camalots, Boreal Fires, and your videos change climbing for me.
I've watched this movie over a hundred times as a teenager it had a big impact on how I thought about climbing. Thanks so much!
I grew up sewing my own runners and reading royal robbins books. Doug was a big leap forward. I hope in this age of quick low attention consumable "knowledge" that his focus on mentorship and personal relationships translates through all professions. Thanks for posting this.
Man…Thank you. All of you. This is a gem for the climbing community and it’s wonderful to know that it’s so easily available in this format. Please, do more of these. There’s so much wisdom in our sport and this is a great way to preserve and share that.
No question but thank you!!
Awesome video Doug! It has an endless summer feel!
Yesssss more Douge!
That video is quintessential 80's docufilm style! "Rock, doo da doo doo doo da dooo, Granite, doo da doo da doo" xD
Thank you so much Doug for letting us all see this epic movie!
thanks, father of clean climbing, Doug. this is my new video to make all my friends watch when they want to learn to climb
Thanks!
I walked away from my computer and RUclips decided to continue autoplaying videos. I come back to my computer as this movie just started and ended up just watching the entire thing. So cool to see how climbing has evolved and even how similar it was to now as well. Thanks for posting the video!
I think the whole package for me has been so helpful and moving. Watching the film itself was profound, as well as the interview with the two of you afterwards. I dont know how i came across the masters of the stone videos, but what i do know is that when i did, it changed me. I was expecting to see a bunch of old school climbers just flapping away pathetically. I never understood, nor thought about how climbing came to be what it is now until i watched those videos. Upon simply seeing these men and women interact with rock was almost a religious experience. I saw the care they gace in every foot placement, the confidence they had long fostered in themselves to climb through bold runouts, and the shear solidness that they moved through even the most shaky terrain. Learning the names, the faces, the dates, the routes, the places, the stories, and seeing it all, like how you captured it in your movie, brought to life all the history that i never thought to explore or learn about. It makes me appreciate and respect climbing at a different level. I feel a sense of community with these people every time i climb. They all give me a feeling of being mentored in a way that i didnt know was possible. I am forever in debt to each and every one of them for the routes they established, the ethic in which they did it, the time they dedicated to the art of climbing, and to the people who saw the importance of what they were doing and decided to capture it to share it with the rest of the world. It has preserved a taste, a memory, a feeling of what climbing is, has been, will be, and can always be at any time. Thank you for making your movie. It has inspired me. I know it will continue to inspire all those who watch it for generations to come.
Legends!
Probably the best intro to a new climber other than an instructor. You can tell he loves the sport.
So cool that you dedicated this video to Dwane Jonson! xD
?? Dwayne Johnson. ? And I do like the guy ??
@@philipbentley9850 The video sais it's "Dedicated to the rock" at the start. 😂👍
This is a fantastic video. I think I learned more about climbing in this hour video than I have anywhere else.
🎶I’m talkin’ ‘bout Doug!🎶
What an absolute gem
Awesome video! The amount of advice crammed in this thing is far better for beginners than almost anything else I've seen.
More, Doug Robinson? Yes, please!
I love this old stuff...because I'm old stuff!
Ryan and I have a few ideas for short, How Not 2 videos. Whenever we actually get together to make some.
Maybe I could post another less-old video, "Go Wild Outside Las Vegas." There's some climbing at Red Rocks, and the rest of it is enjoying running around the desert.
I forget at the moment what Ryan called them, but we shot two vids, an hour plus half an hour, of telling stories about climbing history.
Absolutely beautiful!
To me it seems the wisdom of meditation is mostly lost today.
I'm grateful to have seen your movie Doug, it made me ponder and answered questions I haven't asked myself yet.
Best wishes from Switzerland!
Great flash back to my climbing in the 80's. Thanks for sharing the movie.
Thank you Doug and Ryan for posting!
Brilliant. Not often we get to see and appreciate some of the fountainhead of the sport we love. All the best Doug, thank you for your work and dedication to this sport.
Hey Doug! I bought this VHS back in 1990 and watched it so much that it eventually wore out. Loved it then and love it now. Great job! THANK YOU!
Seriously, Thanks Doug, Good to see the goods old days and friends long gone. Vaya con Dios. Bruce Nyberg Stonemaster
Grateful Dad! Ha!
Got to see Dead & Co's "last" show in July. Hopelessly addicted since the 60s.
You're all nuts, and i love you for it! My hands and feet hurt just watching.
Thank you Doug.
Sweet recommendation, I just seen hownot2 and clicked now I have a whole movie to watch 🎉
Incredible to put this on the channel, thanks so much to Doug!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I bought the video and have watched it more times than I can count. I’ve now been climbing roughly 30 years and your video has had a huge influence on my life. Thank you!!
Doug's the King
As someone who lives in the Sierras, this makes me psyched!
Thanks Doug for this amazing movie! You mentioned working with clients near the end. Any tips on dealing with fearful or difficult clients as a guide?
I recall hardly any difficult clients. Maybe a couple of surgeons. Seems to take a lot of ego to be one...
Fearful, though -- oh yeah! Fear of heights is ALMOST universal. The very few clients without it were the ones who worried me the most. I found myself following around behind them spotting ruthlessly.
Please see my response to "@FrostyBalls01
9 days ago" for some general background.
What I did to talk to clients about fear of heights is to model it out of my own experience. Speak from your own experience, of course. Here's how I would say it:
"I've climbed the face of Half Dome. But if I go to the summit, the only way I can look over the edge is to get down on my belly and put just my eyes over the edge. Usually with a solid foot jam behind me. That void has power. It sucks!"
"Yet to start at the bottom of the wall, tie in and begin leading, clipping into pro, you build up your rational defense against the void. You know from deep experience that the rope will hold you. And the pro will anchor the rope. And your trusty belayer can easily stop any slip. It's a system. Proven to be safer than driving on the freeway. We trust it deeply."
Another part of making our whole protection system feel reasonable to climbing students is to take enough time to talk about the rope. Where did it come from in climbing history? Now we have other uses for hemp (wink). Notice that the modern climbing rope is actually THE most high-tech gear we use. Way beyond, say, cams. It's strong, sure. You could hang a pickup truck from one. But the real high tech value of it is its stretch. The US Army researched parachute harnesses and found that forces needed to stay under 2000 pounds (explain that number's relationship to Kn's) or there would start to be injuries to kidneys and backs. Modern climbing ropes stretch so much they do keep ultimate forces below that threshold. Etc, etc.
wow, Doug, what a real gift. thank you for making such a thoughtful and ahead-of-its-time film and sharing it with us all!
Thanks for putting that on, I don’t think I would have ever seen it otherwise.
Greetings from Brazil.
I forget how many time I saw this film back in the day.
Thanks for bring this classic, this piece of art, back.
omg... this video changed my life. Loved it!
Ive never climbed but am an avid outdoorsman. Love the content. Watch it just because its amazing to see the feats you do and which were started by people like Doug. Its amazing to see him in that video and thinking how they got those shots with the technology available.
Does Doug still do any climbing? I assume he is still involved with climbing via groups, etc. Regarding mentorship, I feel like that has been such a recurring theme in my life lately. A client of mine recently discussed the same thing during a lunch meeting. Having a mentor to not only teach you but to discuss and bounch ideas off of..
I wonder if there is anything climbing wise that Doug still desires or wants to achieve?
I was glued to this video, and love the combination of climbing and filming challenges involved in making a high quality film at the time - that can never be reproduced. Doug, I’m left with few questions because, as your video points out, climbing is about the experience, and any questions will be learned on the rock. Learning on the rock is the way to go, and having fun is key. I just wish there were more ways to connect with the climbing legends that are still around. There are so many stories that I would love to hear about. These videos make it possible, and document those stories for future generations. While it would be amazing to meet Doug and other climbing legends in person, thats probably not feasible on a large scale. More content like this is much appreciated!!
thank you for presenting "moving over stone" this was Gold!
Absolute legend, this is so cool!
Doug 's calm climbing in vintage 80s Fire's make me very happy. "El Arte de Escalar"
Feels like yesterday. Man time flies!
Seeing this brought back wonderful memories from when I started during the 1980s. I first saw Moving Over Stone a couple of years after I started climbing. We made climbing slings by tying our own using tape knots - and climbing a pitch placing the tape knots of the slings in the crack as protection. Those were the days...
I have this on VHS and this is how I learned how to climb. Thank you Doug!!! You changed my life
I still have my well worn VHS copy of this film.
A few weeks on now, but Doug, if you should happen to catch this comment - thank you. Your film taught me climbing movement in a way that books and even my climbing mentors could not - seeing some of the best in the craft doing it was a revelation. I went on to guide for a while, and passed on that learning to many others. Teaching starts a cascade of knowledge forward into the future.
Thanks so much for your comment, and for teaching to pass it on!
world class film and direction
This video is awesome! So much history that needs to be remembered. Now it's on the internet and it will never go away.
Awesome video! Thanks for making this available to anyone. Superb intro to rock climbing. Wish I had seen this in my fledgling climbing years.
You guys are so awesome! Thank you!
THIS IS GOLD. 🙌
Thanks Doug & Ryan & Bobby for sharing this gem 💎
Great film, thank you!
What a great video that totally lives up to current times! Thanks so much for making it available for free for anyone to watch on RUclips.
Hey doug what an epic video very informative & inspirational ❤
This was so awesome!! Thank you guys
this is AWESOME!
This is so awesome, what an interesting story too, what a legend. and at like 52:00 is just an amazing mindset to have and what its all about.
You know what upsets me about this video? I wish it was longer 😢
You definitely don't see high top climbing shoes today. I don't believe I have ever seen a pair in person. They definitely date this video.
Amazing film, Doug - thank you.
Thanks Doug you guys are awesome moving over stone was literally the video that got me into climbing
So good, its stands up amazingly well. Thank you!
Legend!
Love it all. Thanks for this video!
Great film. I remember when it first came out, I picked it up and watched and re-watched. Great vibes. Maybe not comparable, but On The Rocks came out before this featuring John Gill, Tony Yaniro, etc. That was the first climbing film I saw and was inspired by. I had it on VHS of course.
WE used to show this video at chico state climbing classes back in 1988 or so. What memories.
Love every gag pulling "portable" 1980s electronics out, aged like fine wine 🤘😝 (not sarcasm)
Watching this made me feel like I was reading Freedom of the Hills for the first time!
Wonderful, nostalgic, relevant
Respect.
One of the first instructional climbing videos I bought here in England. Remember it well
This is the best climbing doc I've seen in a long time, I wish i'd seen this as a kid- I probably would've started climbing a lot sooner
Moved to YNP(The Valley) in 1982. The 80’s in many ways was a decade of fundamental change that the Sport stands in today
EDIT: Seeing those *Fires* is extremely nostalgic. We bought our first pairs directly from John Bacher & his supplies carried in his van
What a treat
Great video, Doug is awesome!
No questions really but just wanted to say thanks for sharing! I have only dabbled in climbing but loved the video, it really well demonstrates a lot of techniques, with little fluff. The music and outfits were awesome, loved them.
You said to “skim through” the video. Skim nothing, I plan on watching it until I know it verbatim. Very informative. Thank you for sharing it. Really great video.
Such a cool video I love the history and interview at the end.
I was going to put this on as background noise for chores but I can't stop watching
Doug!!!! Thank you for everything you're an inspiration love seeing you appreciation for this realm as well and gaining some knowledge hope your well thanks again for being you
The music in this video is amazing.
Special Fun, a Santa Cruz world beat band. Totally agree!
They really.. rock! Thanks! I would legit play this stuff in a club haha.
@dougrobinson4221 is the LP still $8.00? 😂
How exotic the scenes are!~
I have been climbing in Seoul, South Korea.
I have never seen that kind of videos before~
Love from Nepal kathmandu
So cool
Great video, and super educational! Thank you for sharing this amazing bit of climbing history.
Doug, you mentioned how so many of the new developments in climbing have really helped push the sport into the mainstream (such as climbing gyms, the Olympics, Alex Honnold, etc) and some of the old salts were hesitant of the sports growing popularity. Is there anything you’d say should especially be maintained and passed along from the older generations as more and more people become introduced to the sport?
"If we didn't have a rock, we'd all be surfers".
Made my crack :). Cause it's so true :D.
You guys had some pretty interesting outfit choices, I’ll definitely give you that!! 😂❤
Around 23:00 in the segment with Lynn, she's climbing with 2 ropes, any particular reason for that?
Love the movie, awesome seeing the progress of harnesses and shoes.
In traversing/wandering climbs, using two half-ropes helps you protect against a large swing, you'll effectively fall between the two bolts on either side of you. Its more common in trad climbing than sport.
Reduce rope drag by using one rope on one side of the route and one on the other, and it better protects from swings on intermediate traverses
These guys said it. It's a good trick, very Euro.@@DevinH-64
I loved the whole movie!
I learned on the rock, (I do enjoy gyms too) and this pays homage to the people on the cutting edge in the 80’s.
You were ahead of your time…
"Natural Faith casts out fear." JOHN MUIR