At first I was wondering about your decision not to be precise at the bulkheads, until you explained your reasoning. Nice tip, thank you. "Don't be a BAD builder!" Lol!
G'day Scott. As usual there's a bucket under my chin catching the drool as I'm intently watching and listening to your lessons. In one of your videos you talked about reinforcing bolt holes around the strut/ skeg and in the past I have cut and glued in a small piece of brass tube just long enough to go through the hole and not to long to be crushed when the washer and nut are installed. If you put a close fitting rod in the tube and give a few taps with a small centre punch first and scuff the brass it helps to " KEY " it in place that way you can still get the bolts out without disturbing the epoxy. It works. Thanks for your video's 'they're great. As a matter of interest no one here in Australia apparantly run wire shafts. I've got 2 on order with Brett and associated components. All the best mate.
@@M5PerfHydros G'day Scott. I'm chasing a bit of info if I may. I've been trying to find small aluminium countersunk set screws over here and other type's as well and no one seem's to know about them or have anything to do with them. I like your idea of using the aluminium one,s to me it makes sense. Could you tell me where you get yours from please so that I could order some and what are your popular sizes. We do have a micro fastener shop in Melbourne but they only have steel, stainless steel, hi tensile or alloy steel small bolts and nuts. Just as a matter of interest, is Brent Byers a difficult person to deal with? we have to and froed, now I'm waiting for the invoice so I can pay him and haven't heard from him in a couple or so week's. Just wondering. Anyway, All the best mate. Chris
Here you go. Scroll down and click 'Show More' at the bottom to find everything you'll need www.fastener-express.com/aluminum-fasteners-nuts-washers.aspx
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks for the heads up mate. I've just about got an order ready to go. Scott, can I share a passionate gripe with you. I've watched umpteen dozen videos in the last months watching races and looking at your pit tours and just drooling about alot of things and what hurts me is that when anyone drops a boat into the water its flat out full throttle. WHY can't the motor's be warmed up a bit more gently. Take the race boats, big ones. We always gave them a dry fire and pre warmed them and took off with all good intentions to protect the engine and make it last as long as we could but the model boats they just throw 'em in and blow the weeds off the banks. It was something I was taught during my apprentiship and stuck with me . Just trying to get your perspective of the idea of warm from a man of boat racing.
Oh I completely understand! I came from the world of full size boats and cars and motorcycles too, and you would never blast off with full throttle like we do with the models. Those that did such things would often wonder why they blew so many engines. But... I'm in a different world now. The two stroke model engines are extremely finicky, have near zero torque, and tend to go lean and stall when going from zero load on the boat stand to full load when they hit the water. If you don't come off the toss hard, you'll watch everyone else race while your boat floats dead on the pond.
Your vids and building methods are simply awesome Scott. My skins on my boat are all buckled up because I glued em on the interior parts. Next time I build I'm definitely gonna use yours and Dave's idea with the tape. Thanks for sharing 🙂
I use Finnish birch ply from Aircraft Spruce. Build a boat! Kits, cowlings, parts and info here; * R/C Unlimiteds, the largest scale hydroplane racing club in the world; www.rcunlimiteds.com/ * Awesome laser cut wood kits; mlboatworksrc.com/ * Fiberglass hulls, cowlings, and other parts; www.rcboatcompany.com/ * International Waters rc boating forum; www.intlwaters.com/ * Jim's rc boat dock forums; www.jrcbd.com/forum/forum.php * Parts and useful help; www.allrc1.com/
Appreciate your skill and taking the time to share it!!! Could you please describe how you seal the wood prior to primer? Is the whole hull covered in epoxy? Inside and out? Any help is much appreciated..
Good question... Because I prefer to use West Systems epoxy to seal the interior and the decking, I also use it to attach the deck. It's difficult because the working time is so much shorter and it always takes a while to get the deck weighted/taped/clamped into place, so I always do a complete "dry run" of the installation before I apply the epoxy. Thanks for the question James. I think I'll put that in a video when I'm ready to finish my current build!
Bummer! Must not have been correctly installed originally. If there's access from underneath you could just add some epoxy fillets to strengthen it, but if not the only good fix would be to pop the decks off and re-do them. You can do it!
what do you us the thicken the epoxy to get it to stay on the rails when you are gluing parts together my plans from blazer marine said to us micro balloons to mix in the epoxy i was just wondering what you us
You know, I've been meaning to do a video on that. Micro balloons are fine when strength is not an issue, but most of the time strength IS the point so I rarely use them. My favorite go-to filler is West Systems #406 colloidal silica. It blends easily, sands easily, and holds great using much less than with micro balloons. Next up is West Systems #410 microlight fairing filler but only for it's light brown color. I'll add just a tiny bit of the 410 in addition to 406 when I'm mixing epoxy for an area that will be visible and unpainted later, such as in the engine well of my boats. This gives the epoxy a fairly natural wood look instead of the plain white of 406. Hey.... You gotta make it look cool, right?
Do you have any advice on how to deal with the compound bends on the front of a round nose hydroplane? I bought the 1/10th scale Newton 103 from ML Boatworks.
It's tricky, but you need to relieve the decking by cutting several V-shaped slots angling in toward the center from around the perimeter. Odds are that you'll ruin the material in your first couple attempts, but eventually it'll make sense and you'll get it!
@@M5PerfHydros That's what I kind-of figured. I thought I would make it with thick paper first to give me a template. Hey I just wanted to say also I really like the channel and please keep it up.
Don't know anything about these boats, but you have me glued to your build. Great job. Love details and the humor .
Thanks. Maybe time to build one yourself, eh?
Ok, I am mostly an RC plane guy. Your tip on only glueing the outer edges is awesome.
Another great video, thank you.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
By the way, love that Pinto!
@@M5PerfHydros Thank You. Was my first car. Bought it in 1985.
I never knew that gluing skins on the perimeter only would produce a much better result. Thanks for that! Learns something everyday!
I think this is most applicable to large hulls like this however I have had a Whip40 pull some deck down like he said.
@@zeeek1 - Never again!
There you go!
At first I was wondering about your decision not to be precise at the bulkheads, until you explained your reasoning. Nice tip, thank you. "Don't be a BAD builder!" Lol!
G'day Scott. As usual there's a bucket under my chin catching the drool as I'm intently watching and listening to your lessons. In one of your videos you talked about reinforcing bolt holes around the strut/ skeg and in the past I have cut and glued in a small piece of brass tube just long enough to go through the hole and not to long to be crushed when the washer and nut are installed. If you put a close fitting rod in the tube and give a few taps with a small centre punch first and scuff the brass it helps to " KEY " it in place that way you can still get the bolts out without disturbing the epoxy. It works. Thanks for your video's 'they're great. As a matter of interest no one here in Australia apparantly run wire shafts. I've got 2 on order with Brett and associated components. All the best mate.
Thanks Chris,
I've thought about sleeving the holes, maybe with a piece of aluminum tubing. Appreciate you sharing your experience doing that
@@M5PerfHydros G'day Scott. I'm chasing a bit of info if I may. I've been trying to find small aluminium countersunk set screws over here and other type's as well and no one seem's to know about them or have anything to do with them. I like your idea of using the aluminium one,s to me it makes sense. Could you tell me where you get yours from please so that I could order some and what are your popular sizes. We do have a micro fastener shop in Melbourne but they only have steel, stainless steel, hi tensile or alloy steel small bolts and nuts. Just as a matter of interest, is Brent Byers a difficult person to deal with? we have to and froed, now I'm waiting for the invoice so I can pay him and haven't heard from him in a couple or so week's. Just wondering. Anyway, All the best mate. Chris
Here you go. Scroll down and click 'Show More' at the bottom to find everything you'll need
www.fastener-express.com/aluminum-fasteners-nuts-washers.aspx
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks for the heads up mate. I've just about got an order ready to go. Scott, can I share a passionate gripe with you. I've watched umpteen dozen videos in the last months watching races and looking at your pit tours and just drooling about alot of things and what hurts me is that when anyone drops a boat into the water its flat out full throttle. WHY can't the motor's be warmed up a bit more gently. Take the race boats, big ones. We always gave them a dry fire and pre warmed them and took off with all good intentions to protect the engine and make it last as long as we could but the model boats they just throw 'em in and blow the weeds off the banks. It was something I was taught during my apprentiship and stuck with me . Just trying to get your perspective of the idea of warm from a man of boat racing.
Oh I completely understand! I came from the world of full size boats and cars and motorcycles too, and you would never blast off with full throttle like we do with the models. Those that did such things would often wonder why they blew so many engines. But... I'm in a different world now. The two stroke model engines are extremely finicky, have near zero torque, and tend to go lean and stall when going from zero load on the boat stand to full load when they hit the water. If you don't come off the toss hard, you'll watch everyone else race while your boat floats dead on the pond.
Boy would i love to buy a boat build kit from you looks amazing
Thanks 420! Nothing for sale at this time... Stay tuned
Your vids and building methods are simply awesome Scott. My skins on my boat are all buckled up because I glued em on the interior parts. Next time I build I'm definitely gonna use yours and Dave's idea with the tape. Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks Jim. It hurt me bad to give Dave the credit for that but as usual, Dave was first!
RIGHT!! Dang that guy is awesome too... We're gonna give him hell this year with you in the mix, I can't wait😁
Love your vids ! Couldn't find the one where you make the boat JIG ! Thank you for posting a link
Here you go ruclips.net/video/V_LqtFjgHHw/видео.html
Mate, these vids are great, Love this shit.
Thanks for watchin'!
What kind of wood do you use for structure and planking?
Where can I get a kit?
thanks!
I use Finnish birch ply from Aircraft Spruce. Build a boat! Kits, cowlings, parts and info here;
* R/C Unlimiteds, the largest scale hydroplane racing club in the world; www.rcunlimiteds.com/
* Awesome laser cut wood kits; mlboatworksrc.com/
* Fiberglass hulls, cowlings, and other parts; www.rcboatcompany.com/
* International Waters rc boating forum; www.intlwaters.com/
* Jim's rc boat dock forums; www.jrcbd.com/forum/forum.php
* Parts and useful help; www.allrc1.com/
Appreciate your skill and taking the time to share it!!! Could you please describe how you seal the wood prior to primer? Is the whole hull covered in epoxy? Inside and out? Any help is much appreciated..
I'll do better than that... I'll video it!
@@M5PerfHydros Awesome, thank you!!.
ok do you us g flex or regular epoxy to glue the deck
Good question... Because I prefer to use West Systems epoxy to seal the interior and the decking, I also use it to attach the deck. It's difficult because the working time is so much shorter and it always takes a while to get the deck weighted/taped/clamped into place, so I always do a complete "dry run" of the installation before I apply the epoxy.
Thanks for the question James. I think I'll put that in a video when I'm ready to finish my current build!
the ply on my boat keeps lifting in certain spots what would you suggest to fix that ?
Bummer! Must not have been correctly installed originally. If there's access from underneath you could just add some epoxy fillets to strengthen it, but if not the only good fix would be to pop the decks off and re-do them. You can do it!
@@M5PerfHydros I will just remove it and prep and glue it on again
@@M5PerfHydros I think abit of water got in there and made it worse how do you make sure your seams are good and waterproof? Thanks
what do you us the thicken the epoxy to get it to stay on the rails when you are gluing parts together my plans from blazer marine said to us micro balloons to mix in the epoxy i was just wondering what you us
You know, I've been meaning to do a video on that. Micro balloons are fine when strength is not an issue, but most of the time strength IS the point so I rarely use them. My favorite go-to filler is West Systems #406 colloidal silica. It blends easily, sands easily, and holds great using much less than with micro balloons. Next up is West Systems #410 microlight fairing filler but only for it's light brown color. I'll add just a tiny bit of the 410 in addition to 406 when I'm mixing epoxy for an area that will be visible and unpainted later, such as in the engine well of my boats. This gives the epoxy a fairly natural wood look instead of the plain white of 406. Hey.... You gotta make it look cool, right?
Quick question. How thick is your floor ?
I skin the bottom of the boat with 1.5mm (1/16" roughly) ply, and then overlay another 1.5mm over the engine floor area and strut mounting area
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks for the info and your time. Your videos are a huge help.
Do you have any advice on how to deal with the compound bends on the front of a round nose hydroplane? I bought the 1/10th scale Newton 103 from ML Boatworks.
It's tricky, but you need to relieve the decking by cutting several V-shaped slots angling in toward the center from around the perimeter. Odds are that you'll ruin the material in your first couple attempts, but eventually it'll make sense and you'll get it!
@@M5PerfHydros That's what I kind-of figured. I thought I would make it with thick paper first to give me a template. Hey I just wanted to say also I really like the channel and please keep it up.
Thanks Scott!
@@M5PerfHydros How can I send you some pictures?
I'd love to see the pics! Send to scott.meyers24@gmail.com
🤘🤘🤘
Yeah buddy!!
cho tôi xin bản vẻ thuyền đó được không vậy
When will the next video be?
Soon (ish) ... I have hours of video that just needs editing