If you are going to use this boat as an RC sailing boat you really need to install a rudder tube that the rudder post passes through. The way you built it there will be a leak around the rudder post. Perhaps you did that, but it wasn't shown in the video.
Good to put yourself out there. I have some suggestions. Firstly, did you use a PVA release agent? I saw you had release troubles. It is normal to wax and polish the mould, but the final step should be a water soluble PVA release agent. This allows you to release the mould with water rather than air and is far less likely to damage your mould. Secondly, your resin use shouldn’t leave “puddles” on the cloth. You want to JUST wet it out. This gives the optimum strength at minimum weight. If you are going to add more layers, do them on the initial lay up so that they are all bonded with the same resin rather than forming discrete layers which are susceptible to delaminate. I also suggest you invest in a vacuum bagging system to ensure the layup is pressed hard against the mould. Vac pumps are cheap and readily available. Finally, switch to epoxy resin. It’s stronger, has far less odour and doesn’t shrink as it cures. Polyester is old tech.
Hi, sorry I didn't see your comment till now! I did use water soluble PVA but I didn't mist it on, I used a spray bottle to apply it so I am not sure I got a thick enough coat. I think I did 3 or 4 coats of wax too. I would have done two layers in the first layup if I'd known one wouldn't make it very strong. I know it was a sloppy layup because of the pooling; especially the second layup. I went with the cheapest most readily available resin because didn't know what I was doing.
@@Lozzie74 Thanks! I was presently surprised by the finish quality I was able to get in some spots of the hull with that mold. If I were todo this again, there are a number of things I'd do differently; but I'd try to keep the process that allowed me to get such a fine finish right out of the mold.
Terima kasih banyak! Itu bukan fiberglassing pertama saya. Sebagai seorang anak saya memperbaiki hydroplane ukuran nyata untuk berkeliling. Pertama kali dengan cetakan. **google translated**
@@rcboat6812 Itu akan luar biasa! Akhirnya saya berencana untuk merilis perahu yang saya desain untuk printer 3D. Tapi saya punya ide untuk perahu layar RC dari nampan daging styrofoam. tetap baik!
Its much heavier then the ABS hull; My noob fiberglass skills are to thank for that. After watching a ton of RamyRC channel, I think I could cut the weight significantly if I ever were to redo it. but I would 3D print the mold this time.
@@gementar Yes! I tried to get away with one layer of fiberglass and it just wasn't enough. when I went to strengthen it I didn't have a plan and thought resin = strength... Not the case, less resin and another well-thought-out layer of cloth would've been better.
@@RandomProjectswithSam Thanks for this info, I'm planning on creating a boat drone about 1 meter long. I'm planning on using fiber glass like yours. Do you have any tips on how much layer of fiber glass that I should use.
@@gementar hey! check out ruclips.net/video/kWPgNLsfr8c/видео.html He has some great autonomous rc stuff. I would do 2 to 3 layers of cloth, limiting the resin to just what is needed to wet out the cloth; look into different types of cloth too. checkout RamyRC for more tips on composites. Also, MJ sailing channel - they're doing a bunch of layups and have some good technique. So much to learn about doing it right.
I watched a ton of RUclips videos. I didn't want to spend a ton and a lot of the videos featured a lot of expensive equipment. I really need to find a good source for the resin and cloth; its all so expensive for the hobbyist who doesn't know what they're doing :)
I don't do the molds. I only did the one and it was ruined when I pulled out the hull. If I were to do it again, I would design it in CAD and 3D print it. Like RamyRC (for planes). If I ever do that, I'll make a video about it.
First off let me say you do nice work young man but you're doing way too much of it. Read my comments in your mold making video might explain a lot. As a journeyman boat builder of over 30 years in short when your part comes out of the mold it should be finished, short of a few imperfections Maybe. For example the very first layer sprayed in the mold is the color of gelcoat you want that part to be so there is no painting only touch up when parts comes out of mole
If you are going to use this boat as an RC sailing boat you really need to install a rudder tube that the rudder post passes through. The way you built it there will be a leak around the rudder post. Perhaps you did that, but it wasn't shown in the video.
Very nice! Hand 🤚 made precise! Everything on another level! Mastermind! Salud 🥂!
Maneiríssimo.😀🙏😀
Good to put yourself out there. I have some suggestions. Firstly, did you use a PVA release agent? I saw you had release troubles. It is normal to wax and polish the mould, but the final step should be a water soluble PVA release agent. This allows you to release the mould with water rather than air and is far less likely to damage your mould. Secondly, your resin use shouldn’t leave “puddles” on the cloth. You want to JUST wet it out. This gives the optimum strength at minimum weight. If you are going to add more layers, do them on the initial lay up so that they are all bonded with the same resin rather than forming discrete layers which are susceptible to delaminate. I also suggest you invest in a vacuum bagging system to ensure the layup is pressed hard against the mould. Vac pumps are cheap and readily available. Finally, switch to epoxy resin. It’s stronger, has far less odour and doesn’t shrink as it cures. Polyester is old tech.
The mould quality is stunning and the resultant hull is beautiful
Hi, sorry I didn't see your comment till now! I did use water soluble PVA but I didn't mist it on, I used a spray bottle to apply it so I am not sure I got a thick enough coat. I think I did 3 or 4 coats of wax too.
I would have done two layers in the first layup if I'd known one wouldn't make it very strong. I know it was a sloppy layup because of the pooling; especially the second layup. I went with the cheapest most readily available resin because didn't know what I was doing.
@@Lozzie74 Thanks! I was presently surprised by the finish quality I was able to get in some spots of the hull with that mold. If I were todo this again, there are a number of things I'd do differently; but I'd try to keep the process that allowed me to get such a fine finish right out of the mold.
Very good job!!!
Thanks!
13:52 The inner ledge you made, was that the same epoxy mixture as inside the hull??
I added fumed silica to that and the 'gel coats' I added. It thickens up the resin and strengthens it.
Pekerjaan tangan yang baik saudaraku 🇮🇩😍❤
Terima kasih banyak! Itu bukan fiberglassing pertama saya. Sebagai seorang anak saya memperbaiki hydroplane ukuran nyata untuk berkeliling. Pertama kali dengan cetakan. **google translated**
@@RandomProjectswithSam saya suka saudaraku kapan waktu saya akan coba membuat juga ❤❤❤
@@rcboat6812 Itu akan luar biasa! Akhirnya saya berencana untuk merilis perahu yang saya desain untuk printer 3D. Tapi saya punya ide untuk perahu layar RC dari nampan daging styrofoam. tetap baik!
Great job
How does it sail compared to the plastic victoria sailboat
Its much heavier then the ABS hull; My noob fiberglass skills are to thank for that. After watching a ton of RamyRC channel, I think I could cut the weight significantly if I ever were to redo it. but I would 3D print the mold this time.
@@RandomProjectswithSam Is it because too much resin coating?
@@gementar Yes! I tried to get away with one layer of fiberglass and it just wasn't enough. when I went to strengthen it I didn't have a plan and thought resin = strength... Not the case, less resin and another well-thought-out layer of cloth would've been better.
@@RandomProjectswithSam Thanks for this info, I'm planning on creating a boat drone about 1 meter long. I'm planning on using fiber glass like yours. Do you have any tips on how much layer of fiber glass that I should use.
@@gementar hey! check out ruclips.net/video/kWPgNLsfr8c/видео.html He has some great autonomous rc stuff. I would do 2 to 3 layers of cloth, limiting the resin to just what is needed to wet out the cloth; look into different types of cloth too. checkout RamyRC for more tips on composites. Also, MJ sailing channel - they're doing a bunch of layups and have some good technique. So much to learn about doing it right.
Comment 3 great video ⛽️☝️☝️☝️☝️🔔
Gpod job my friends✊✊
Thanks! it was a lot of work! 3D printing the whole thing would have been faster but I didn't have the 3D printer then.
Bel lavoro, bravo
I suggest you visit a fiberglass boat manufacturer and study their process
I watched a ton of RUclips videos. I didn't want to spend a ton and a lot of the videos featured a lot of expensive equipment. I really need to find a good source for the resin and cloth; its all so expensive for the hobbyist who doesn't know what they're doing :)
I recommend chopped strand emulsion mat 300g, cheaper and more flexible just layer for required thickness.
Where can you find molds here?
I don't do the molds. I only did the one and it was ruined when I pulled out the hull. If I were to do it again, I would design it in CAD and 3D print it. Like RamyRC (for planes). If I ever do that, I'll make a video about it.
Не сделал бимсы , вот палуба и вышла вогнутой. Надо было ознакомиться с конструкцией , а не изобретать велосипед.
это была маленькая модель, поэтому вогнутую деку было легко исправить.
First off let me say you do nice work young man but you're doing way too much of it. Read my comments in your mold making video might explain a lot. As a journeyman boat builder of over 30 years in short when your part comes out of the mold it should be finished, short of a few imperfections Maybe. For example the very first layer sprayed in the mold is the color of gelcoat you want that part to be so there is no painting only touch up when parts comes out of mole