Nice work and Craftsmanship with a excellent narrative on what you were doing and why i am a retired Woodworker who has owned many boats over the years I have always been impressed on how well a Gelcoat finish comes out despite that its kind of applied backwards in a sense in Woodworking we usually apply our finish over the top of what we built so in theory you are watching the finished product not like in a boat you kind of apply the exterior then build on that for strength and integrity it’s just a different approach of course that’s why so much emphasis is pu5 into th3 mold
Nice video and nice end result. A few things surprised me though from a boatbuilder's perspective.. 1. We usually roll resin with paint rollers. This helps prevent over saturation of resin and also helps prevent fibers from straightening or pulling out and becoming weak (to be honest I usually spray gel and resin in moulds then roll but I understand this video is aimed at people that may not have spray equipment). Too much resin is almost as bad as not enough resin, resin on its own is brittle and prone to cracking. I'll use a brush on inside corners or tight spots the roller won't reach 2. We never ever ever pop a hull using only mat (chopped strand mat) every few layers you add woven roving and/or combination cloth. Mat provides rigidity while woven provides strength and impact resistance 3. Have you ever heard of a radius roller?
Did you skip a step between the application of gelcote and laying in the first glass laminate layer? Would have been nice to see the process (which I thought was the point of the thing here)...
Paul here had just fibreglassed the flange off video, the rest of the gelcoat is still not done where we pick the video up again so I don't think we missed anything important. That said If I was doing it I would probably do it in one hit and save some time.
@@jeremybenson5782 The amount of layers used depends on the desired thickness of the hull. Personal preference or whatever. Work boats typically have much thicker hulls than speed boats. Since this hull is just a demonstration the amount of layers is irrelevant
I mean... he did OK... probably better than most on RUclips lol He did use too much resin and I personally wouldn't have done it using only a brush I would have done it all in one go instead of doing the rim first since the rim just gets cut off anyway... less seams the better And I would have used a radius roller instead of a straight one I know I'm 2 years late but I'm kind of interested on your thoughts I've been fiberglassing and rebuilding boats for 10 years or so and taught by 2nd and 3rd generation boatbuilders but I'm always looking for outside perspectives
I would like to start a 24ft boat project. And i want it to have a smooth finish like the one you just achieved. I know i will need a molding for that. What should i make my molding from?
you want a better finish than whats in the video. go back and look at the front of the hull. its about 3 inches of it that is terrible. now needsto be flattened down and polished and hope the gel coat is thick enough.
Shouldn't that be "keep your hands behind the blade"? lol To be serious for a moment, what's the purpose of the gel coat? Does it form part of the hard shell, or is it simply a mold release aid? (complete grp noob here )
Is the gelcote necessary as the hull I want to make has more of a matt finish or can the resin and fibreglass be applied directly after the releasing wax? It's a 2 part boat hull mould with relief details on the sides and similar in size to the mould shown here.
Hi Sven. The mat that was used is 450g, and we believe that Paul used 2 layers in the main hull and 3 layers on the flange. 2kg of resin would have been sufficient for this small mould. You can find more information on our website www.cfsnet.co.uk where there are links to fibreglass methods and fibreglass projects on the right hand side toolbar. Hope this helps! CFS
No vacuum needed for hand lay gelcoat and resin. You can fibreglass onto balsa and it will bond itself extremely well, should you want to use balsa as a mould then the surface of the balsa will need treating with a sealer and release agent to ensure the two will part.
CFS Fibreglass Supplies okay thank you but 5oz what does it mean i have seen it on scratch builds like use 4 or 5oz cloth is it the weight or layers or something like that? And is there only blue outcome or is there other colors to it
The blue is just the colour of the pigment in the gelcoat, you can literally have any colour pigment. The oz thing can be quite confusing, for woven fabrics 5oz would be around 120g (ish) per m2 of fabric. For matting (the random fibreglass) then its different 1oz is 300g per m2, 1.5oz is 450g and 2oz is 600g. Its because the old system used some per square foot and some per square yard weights. Try to use metric where possible as it avoids confusion.
06:52 "Always keep your hand in front of the blade".....really? Paul, I enjoy your great videos, very educational however some of us get sea sick by the actions of your cameraman. Some times its best to do the video yourself even if it takes a bit longer.
all that rubbish about 8 coats of wax is just stupid.. if you give it one coat and it polishes up nice that is it. too many coats and you get smudges.... the secret is to just make sure its a nice polished finish......
Nice work and Craftsmanship with a excellent narrative on what you were doing and why i am a retired Woodworker who has owned many boats over the years I have always been impressed on how well a Gelcoat finish comes out despite that its kind of applied backwards in a sense in Woodworking we usually apply our finish over the top of what we built so in theory you are watching the finished product not like in a boat you kind of apply the exterior then build on that for strength and integrity it’s just a different approach of course that’s why so much emphasis is pu5 into th3 mold
Nice video and nice end result. A few things surprised me though from a boatbuilder's perspective..
1. We usually roll resin with paint rollers. This helps prevent over saturation of resin and also helps prevent fibers from straightening or pulling out and becoming weak (to be honest I usually spray gel and resin in moulds then roll but I understand this video is aimed at people that may not have spray equipment). Too much resin is almost as bad as not enough resin, resin on its own is brittle and prone to cracking. I'll use a brush on inside corners or tight spots the roller won't reach
2. We never ever ever pop a hull using only mat (chopped strand mat) every few layers you add woven roving and/or combination cloth. Mat provides rigidity while woven provides strength and impact resistance
3. Have you ever heard of a radius roller?
I’d like to build a 30ft fiberglass boat with this method. Is it possible for you to guide a stranger ? Would be much appreciated.
Now I just need a mold like that, but about 17 times larger!
Did you skip a step between the application of gelcote and laying in the first glass laminate layer? Would have been nice to see the process (which I thought was the point of the thing here)...
Paul here had just fibreglassed the flange off video, the rest of the gelcoat is still not done where we pick the video up again so I don't think we missed anything important. That said If I was doing it I would probably do it in one hit and save some time.
Would have been nice to see the whole process up to how many coats of fiberglass cloth was used. Or at least mentioned.
@@jeremybenson5782 The amount of layers used depends on the desired thickness of the hull. Personal preference or whatever. Work boats typically have much thicker hulls than speed boats. Since this hull is just a demonstration the amount of layers is irrelevant
CFS i've been laminating for over 30 years now and have be a laminating training instructor would you like me to show you how to laminate
I mean... he did OK... probably better than most on RUclips lol
He did use too much resin and I personally wouldn't have done it using only a brush
I would have done it all in one go instead of doing the rim first since the rim just gets cut off anyway... less seams the better
And I would have used a radius roller instead of a straight one
I know I'm 2 years late but I'm kind of interested on your thoughts
I've been fiberglassing and rebuilding boats for 10 years or so and taught by 2nd and 3rd generation boatbuilders but I'm always looking for outside perspectives
If you're using foil tape do you still recommend waxing?
I would like to start a 24ft boat project. And i want it to have a smooth finish like the one you just achieved. I know i will need a molding for that. What should i make my molding from?
you want a better finish than whats in the video. go back and look at the front of the hull. its about 3 inches of it that is terrible. now needsto be flattened down and polished and hope the gel coat is thick enough.
Watching this was awesome
How big is the mould you were using?
Why don't you use spray release ??
Would it not be better to use a silicone jacket mould then you’d have no issues with releasing?
You definitely can use a silicone mould, we used this mould as it's one we already had!
Shouldn't that be "keep your hands behind the blade"? lol
To be serious for a moment, what's the purpose of the gel coat? Does it form part of the hard shell, or is it simply a mold release aid? (complete grp noob here )
BlackHearthguard gives the shiny gel coat finish aswell as the colour
Show us how to make the mold
what is the name of the color blue paint?
try mavcoat release agent.
Sir I see first you put paint.. Second fiberglass... Third you put i see like oil or glue what is that on the fiberglass
Great video very informative. Where did you get the mould from?
Hi, sorry for the delay in replying! We actually already had the mould - it was made by a member of the Director's family. :)
Others video show you where he get the mould.. I mean he make the mould
Is the gelcote necessary as the hull I want to make has more of a matt finish or can the resin and fibreglass be applied directly after the releasing wax?
It's a 2 part boat hull mould with relief details on the sides and similar in size to the mould shown here.
Atreius Lux
how much does this mold weigh?
How many layers of fiberglass/chopped strand mat were you using? And how much polyester/resin?
Great video and instructions btw!
Hi Sven.
The mat that was used is 450g, and we believe that Paul used 2 layers in the main hull and 3 layers on the flange. 2kg of resin would have been sufficient for this small mould.
You can find more information on our website www.cfsnet.co.uk where there are links to fibreglass methods and fibreglass projects on the right hand side toolbar.
Hope this helps! CFS
Ok, thanks.
Please sir help me all materials needed to produce mold
Dont we need a vaccum to suck out the airbubbles?? And can i fiberglass on balsa wood
No vacuum needed for hand lay gelcoat and resin. You can fibreglass onto balsa and it will bond itself extremely well, should you want to use balsa as a mould then the surface of the balsa will need treating with a sealer and release agent to ensure the two will part.
CFS Fibreglass Supplies okay thank you but 5oz what does it mean i have seen it on scratch builds like use 4 or 5oz cloth is it the weight or layers or something like that? And is there only blue outcome or is there other colors to it
The blue is just the colour of the pigment in the gelcoat, you can literally have any colour pigment. The oz thing can be quite confusing, for woven fabrics 5oz would be around 120g (ish) per m2 of fabric. For matting (the random fibreglass) then its different 1oz is 300g per m2, 1.5oz is 450g and 2oz is 600g. Its because the old system used some per square foot and some per square yard weights. Try to use metric where possible as it avoids confusion.
CFS Fibreglass Supplies thank you i did not find any scratch builds logs that used the metric system but amount of layers are just 1 or more?
06:52 "Always keep your hand in front of the blade".....really?
Paul, I enjoy your great videos, very educational however some of us get sea sick by the actions of your cameraman. Some times its best to do the video yourself even if it takes a bit longer.
I clicked and thought he was speaking Swedish.
Wrong .Lamination must be finished before polyester hardens
Ho help me to make mold of slide
Wow... A boat-shaped object made of frozen snot.
Chim chim charoo govna
all that rubbish about 8 coats of wax is just stupid.. if you give it one coat and it polishes up nice that is it. too many coats and you get smudges.... the secret is to just make sure its a nice polished finish......
IT'S CONFUSING, TAKE THIS OUT IN RUclips, IT'S NO USE FOR A BEGINNER TO LEARN...