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thanks! I cant wait to get the new one edited. I replaced all the tie rods!

Thanks! Aquariums helped me quit smoking a long time ago. I really enjoy it.

I totally did. Was lucky enough to pull the trigger before they ran out of stock. Went back for a third later and they were all gone.

Seemed like a shame to not share such an opportunity.

thanks! Would it help you figure out what you're missing if I did a quick rigging video on the boat? I still have it in working order!

I found the ender style end-stops with all the little components already soldered on. Be here in a day!

Actually. a day isn't fast enough and I really like soldering with my Hakko FX-888D. I can change out the tip to a very precise one making these jobs pretty fast.

It was just for PETG. PLA wouldnt have an issue. I could probably put capricorn tube in for the Bowden and it would be fine. I probably will end up doing that too.

it is so far. after a bunch of prints I'll examine the boden tube to see if its melting. if it is, I need to look into a bi-metal heat-break to prevent the transfer of heat.

I ended up getting the bi-metal heat break and its been happily printing PETG without odd odors for awhile now.

hi, I'm not sure if they fit the b24. I think it was a standard skateboard bearing. it was so long ago. I think I documented all this on Thingiverse?

Hi, Thanks for your interest. I am sure IKEA has a wonderful product, but in this instance, I used something like this: www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/boards/mastercraft-reg-1-3-8-x-24-red-oak-benchtop/1048608/p-1444445113151-c-13115.htm Home Depot also has a similar product. You can usually get them in different lengths and depths and thicknesses! If you're using it for a kitchen, I suppose it would be prudent to verify the glue used by the manufacturer to laminate it together is food safe.

Agreed! But I totally would've misjudged its buoyancy on the first attempt.

ahh nice solution! I had some RJ45 I was thinking of using but it was cheap and brittle, not very good for repetitive motion. The Optocoupler solved my problem.

That is actually an inefficient heater! The difference between now and then though is that now access to commercial grade hardware and software is much less expensive. Now its more about the operator then the equipment. Innovation and good design will be rewarded. Checkout the product on ParlAquatics.com!

thanks so much! It really makes a difference for us small creators! I may actually start making more RUclips content if I can get my subscribers up!

yes but you may get some flex & chatter over such a long distance. Funny you mention it; I'm actually making a new version that uses 46" or 1100mm linear rails for the Y-axis. a.co/d/eOStfGZ It may be awhile before I release it as I'm curently designing the parts now. I plan to make it an upgrade path to the Multibot... was planning on using my 600mm y-axis rods for the new x-axis.

Utilizo la configuración estándar solo bajé el blanco a la vista debido a las algas. (google translate)

@@RandomProjectswithSam muchas gracias por responder a que porcentaje el blanco un 30

Thanks! Trying to get back into the videos! Just hard to get motivated!

I've never had much luck repairing such small parts. If you can repair it more power to you!

That is an opinion. In practice it works great! I've managed to find a setting that seems to avoid overmixing while still preventing the dreaded Kalk puck.

I'm also running it for longer then usual for the video.

@@RandomProjectswithSam Cool...it looks nice and performance can't be judged from a 30 second clip. Just seemed like it stirred up a lot of white Kalk in the water to be dosed. 30 seconds doesn't give a full picture. Glad it is working good.

​@@Trickmanii I have it stirring for only 3 or 5 seconds (I forget my setting) every 2 minutes. enough to keep the undissolved solute in suspension while not disturbing the surface of the water to introduce unwanted gas exchange.

Thanks!

I made it a free download on Thingiverse. The link should be in the video description but just in case its not: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4908815

If you use my designs please consider subscribing to my channel.

I wasn't aware moisture ruined the media. I've actually overflowed my skimmer through the media a few times accidentally while I was testing designs and didn't notice a change in the efficacy of the skimmer cap. That's why all my caps have weep holes now; any skimmer overflows are able to escape and not get drawn through the media. Although, I did verify that aside from a slight pH jump exposing the tank to the media is not detrimental to the livestock.

Sorry I missed your comment! I did use an Arduino. I stopped posting videos for a bit; I had a bunch of projects that didn't pan out with anything fun to edit let alone watch so I took a break... Its just lasted a really long time.

Would you rather hear children screaming? I was heavy on the music because there was a ton of background noise. A lot of people don't like the the audio but I tossed the original footage so cant re-edit. Thanks for giving me the benefit of the doubt regarding my knowledge. As with everything its a learning experience; I know now to go with less background audio.

ya, about a toss up with screaming kids. On second thought, did that, done with that... well, at least it isn't german techno-pop.

The mould quality is stunning and the resultant hull is beautiful

Hi, sorry I didn't see your comment till now! I did use water soluble PVA but I didn't mist it on, I used a spray bottle to apply it so I am not sure I got a thick enough coat. I think I did 3 or 4 coats of wax too. I would have done two layers in the first layup if I'd known one wouldn't make it very strong. I know it was a sloppy layup because of the pooling; especially the second layup. I went with the cheapest most readily available resin because didn't know what I was doing.

@@Lozzie74 Thanks! I was presently surprised by the finish quality I was able to get in some spots of the hull with that mold. If I were todo this again, there are a number of things I'd do differently; but I'd try to keep the process that allowed me to get such a fine finish right out of the mold.

It took me a while to figure out what to look for. A lot of garage door places wanted to charge me $40 for the small piece of metal... It didn't make sense to me so I looked around. Thanks for commenting! I am glad I could help you out!

I have no idea but thank you! I'll take it! :D

I added fumed silica to that and the 'gel coats' I added. It thickens up the resin and strengthens it.