This is great to see how you work with the shutter and other camera stuff on your RUclips canal, and it's good inspiration to go deeper into those old shutter's. Cheers Kenneth
Super helpful! was repairing a Copal SVE shutter on a Yashica Lynx 14 and referred to your video. For anyone else working with this, there's an extra shim that goes on top of blade #5. The blades are counted clockwise starting from the main lever.
@@MyAddictedLife as to how you could get in touch with me. I have been commenting these past few days but i noticed that my comments get deleted when i try to mention my socials. So that's amazing
Sir, this was just beautiful. I have struggled through this procedure on my own, and wish RUclips had existed then. I did make it work, but it took hours. Thanks again for the great lessons!
Great video. working on a Copal SV shutter system on an old Yashica Lynx 1000, and while not completely identical, there's a lot of similarities. in particular, I think watching your reassembly of the shutter timing mechanisms will really help me out, as I think I've located the source of my problem. none of the slow shutter speeds work on mine, just B or 1/1000. but looking at your slow speed escapement, I noticed the little pie shipped cog is placed a particular way, and I think it's out of place on mine. I think that might be the cause of it not working, as it can't actuate the other gears. I'll try fixing that and see if that works. then I'll have to move on to the aperture blades, as they fell off their mounts. thanks so much. 😊
This video was very helpful for fixing a sluggish Copal 0 shutter I have. Do you do requests? I would really like to see how to CLA a Kodak Supermatic shutter like the one on my 1948 vintage Crown Graphic. There must be thousands of those shutters still in use, but they're getting very old and need of some love Thanks!
It took me a LOT of time to service a SLV Copal shutter. My main problems are the m/x synch contacts, which Im not sure if it’s set right and some sort of fine time adjustments on this kind of shutter. After the cleaning and reassemble time is slightly off
Great to see content like this on RUclips! My shutter speed dial is really stiff to turn. It can be done, but it doesn't feel normal. My other shutter is silky smooth compared to this one. Does anyone know if this could be an easy fix? Thanks!
I have a Copal #0 produced for a Nikkor SW lens. Upon reinstalling the shutter blades, there is an additional spacer that I presume is to be placed atop one of the blades - but which one? I cannot see this piece in your video or other guides I have come across. I can only see reference to in in an exploded parts-diagram of an older Copal shutter but it's not clear onto which blade it should be placed.
The shutter covered in the FOC video Copal #0 Shutter Blades is very similar to the shutter in Yashica twin lens cameras. A video showing how to access this shutters will be produced sometime in the future. In the mean time you can peel the leatherette from the front of the camera to reveal the screws that hold the front plate in place. Be mindful of the linkages when you lift the cover plate free.
sewing1243 Yes, you may clean them with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol, if there is any residual oil on the blades. The blades should be clean and oil free upon installation.
Saviano Luz The Bessa is a wonderful classic camera! The Copal and Compur do share some similarity of design, however for a sluggish shutter complete disassembly would unlikely be needed. Slow shutter speeds is often caused by the slow speed escapement needing to be cleaned and very lightly lubricated on the pivot points. A weak main spring can also cause the blades to hang up. Of course the blades themselves need to be clean and devoid of any oily residue. A recent post on the Fix Old Cameras google plus page shows an exploded view of the areas mentioned on a Synchro Compur #00 shutter. And an up coming FOC video will feature the Synchro Compur #00 shutter.
Your videos are really helpful! But I have a question: How about the shutter blades fail to form light tight closure. What might cause this issue? I have a German TLR (weltaflex with vebur shutter), everything looks and works well mechanically but in the dark I noticed I can see a very little amount of light passing through the blades. I don't know whether it's worth (and possible) to fix it. :-/ any tips?
Check to make certain the blades are closing completely. Could be from wear or possibly the retaining plates are slightly loose allowing for play in the operation.
@@FixOldCameras The blades close completely. They look good to me. I supose the retaining plates are slightly loose, because if I touch the blades they can move a little. Thank you so much for answering!
I have a mamiya press 100mm 3.5. Seikosha s shutter. the speed is stuck at 1/500sec. i believe there is a cam which slows the shutter to other speeds. is this easily available. what is normally the cause of the cam not working?
There is a speed cam ring. The speed cam ring followers might not be engaging the speed cam ring. Possible the speed cam ring is not seated as it should be.
Your perception of the skills needed is probably fairly accurate. Like learning and mastering any skill, one can always learn the next thing needed that we do not know. Where we so often run in to problems is when we skip over what we could build on. Patience and persistence.
they all need to overlap each other in the correct order so that each blade is sandwiched between and supported by the two on either side. otherwise you get gaps and light leaks and uneven wear from edges rubbing against each other and unsupported blade tips flopping around enough to potentially snag on something and cause a catastrophic failure.
For any serious servicing and repairs PLEASE refer to the Chris Sherlock channel...this is just a joke when it comes to REAL SERVICING...Sorry, but that's a fact.
This is great to see how you work with the shutter and other camera stuff on your RUclips canal, and it's good inspiration to go deeper into those old shutter's.
Cheers
Kenneth
Good to hear from a RUclips repair pioneer. Keep'em going.
I will do so :-)
Super helpful! was repairing a Copal SVE shutter on a Yashica Lynx 14 and referred to your video. For anyone else working with this, there's an extra shim that goes on top of blade #5. The blades are counted clockwise starting from the main lever.
Hey i broke a screw on my Copal SVE lynx 14. Do you know where i can find a replacement?
@@Y0usmelled Can you describe what screw you're talking about? And how can I get in touch with you?
a black screw with a broad screw head. possibly left hand threaded
@@MyAddictedLife as to how you could get in touch with me. I have been commenting these past few days but i noticed that my comments get deleted when i try to mention my socials. So that's amazing
Sir, this was just beautiful. I have struggled through this procedure on my own, and wish RUclips had existed then. I did make it work, but it took hours. Thanks again for the great lessons!
captainbedworthy Thank you for your fine comments.
Great video. working on a Copal SV shutter system on an old Yashica Lynx 1000, and while not completely identical, there's a lot of similarities. in particular, I think watching your reassembly of the shutter timing mechanisms will really help me out, as I think I've located the source of my problem. none of the slow shutter speeds work on mine, just B or 1/1000. but looking at your slow speed escapement, I noticed the little pie shipped cog is placed a particular way, and I think it's out of place on mine. I think that might be the cause of it not working, as it can't actuate the other gears. I'll try fixing that and see if that works. then I'll have to move on to the aperture blades, as they fell off their mounts. thanks so much. 😊
Super video. No one repairs these any longer.
Thank you. Occasionally they are repaired still. phototronic.biz/
Outstanding! This would have made the repair of my Copal shutter a LOT easier. Thank you
Keep'em going. And thank you for your interest in FOC.
Another brilliant video, to inspire us to meet the challenge.
Thank you for your interest in FOC, as your, and all interest is an inspiration to this channel.
Thank you very much! I was able to fix my Schneider 150mm with this Video. Awsome!
Excellent to hear of your success.
Thank you so much for passing this knowledge down!
This video was very helpful for fixing a sluggish Copal 0 shutter I have. Do you do requests? I would really like to see how to CLA a Kodak Supermatic shutter like the one on my 1948 vintage Crown Graphic. There must be thousands of those shutters still in use, but they're getting very old and need of some love
Thanks!
Good to hear it was helpful. And thank you for your comments and suggestion.
This guy is smooth.
Thank you for your interest in FOC.
It took me a LOT of time to service a SLV Copal shutter. My main problems are the m/x synch contacts, which Im not sure if it’s set right and some sort of fine time adjustments on this kind of shutter. After the cleaning and reassemble time is slightly off
Great to see content like this on RUclips! My shutter speed dial is really stiff to turn. It can be done, but it doesn't feel normal. My other shutter is silky smooth compared to this one. Does anyone know if this could be an easy fix? Thanks!
Should one be touching the internal parts with bare fingers? Won't the finger oils and acidic quantities affect the components over time?
Thank looking for this kind repair video
I have a Copal #0 produced for a Nikkor SW lens. Upon reinstalling the shutter blades, there is an additional spacer that I presume is to be placed atop one of the blades - but which one? I cannot see this piece in your video or other guides I have come across. I can only see reference to in in an exploded parts-diagram of an older Copal shutter but it's not clear onto which blade it should be placed.
Thanks for your information , please talk about copal mxv for yashica 635
The shutter covered in the FOC video Copal #0 Shutter Blades is very similar to the shutter in Yashica twin lens cameras. A video showing how to access this shutters will be produced sometime in the future. In the mean time you can peel the leatherette from the front of the camera to reveal the screws that hold the front plate in place. Be mindful of the linkages when you lift the cover plate free.
Should the aperture or shutter blades be cleaned before reassembly? If yes with what?
sewing1243 Yes, you may clean them with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol, if there is any residual oil on the blades. The blades should be clean and oil free upon installation.
I have a Voightlander Bessa 2 with a slow shutter problem, will this guide help me or the mechanism is way different?
Saviano Luz The Bessa is a wonderful classic camera! The Copal and Compur do share some similarity of design, however for a sluggish shutter complete disassembly would unlikely be needed. Slow shutter speeds is often caused by the slow speed escapement needing to be cleaned and very lightly lubricated on the pivot points. A weak main spring can also cause the blades to hang up. Of course the blades themselves need to be clean and devoid of any oily residue. A recent post on the Fix Old Cameras google plus page shows an exploded view of the areas mentioned on a Synchro Compur #00 shutter. And an up coming FOC video will feature the Synchro Compur #00 shutter.
Many thanks，i repaired my own one.
Your videos are really helpful!
But I have a question: How about the shutter blades fail to form light tight closure. What might cause this issue?
I have a German TLR (weltaflex with vebur shutter), everything looks and works well mechanically but in the dark I noticed I can see a very little amount of light passing through the blades. I don't know whether it's worth (and possible) to fix it. :-/ any tips?
Check to make certain the blades are closing completely. Could be from wear or possibly the retaining plates are slightly loose allowing for play in the operation.
@@FixOldCameras The blades close completely. They look good to me. I supose the retaining plates are slightly loose, because if I touch the blades they can move a little. Thank you so much for answering!
I have a mamiya press 100mm 3.5. Seikosha s shutter. the speed is stuck at 1/500sec. i believe there is a cam which slows the shutter to other speeds. is this easily available. what is normally the cause of the cam not working?
There is a speed cam ring. The speed cam ring followers might not be engaging the speed cam ring. Possible the speed cam ring is not seated as it should be.
Thanks will look into it soon.
+1 !!! excellent
thx
My copal 0 shutter only go from T till 1/30th. Is there a way to fix that? Everything else works.
High speed side of the shutter might have a detached spring or a sticking lever.
that amazing explanation, hope I'm not going to need it :)
Thank you for your words of encouragement and you interest in FOC.
how does one get into this? it feels like a sense of clockworking must be neccessary.
Your perception of the skills needed is probably fairly accurate. Like learning and mastering any skill, one can always learn the next thing needed that we do not know. Where we so often run in to problems is when we skip over what we could build on. Patience and persistence.
Thanks A lot!!!!
anyone else notice that the aperture blades were reassembled wrong?
Hmmm... seems to work OK. What should be done differently?
they all need to overlap each other in the correct order so that each blade is sandwiched between and supported by the two on either side. otherwise you get gaps and light leaks and uneven wear from edges rubbing against each other and unsupported blade tips flopping around enough to potentially snag on something and cause a catastrophic failure.
Indeed the blades need to be installed in the correct order otherwise they will not work. What needs to be done differently in the application shown?
For any serious servicing and repairs PLEASE refer to the Chris Sherlock channel...this is just a joke when it comes to REAL SERVICING...Sorry, but that's a fact.