Fix Old Cameras: Zeiss Contax lla Shutter Assembly Access
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- Опубликовано: 11 янв 2019
- Zeiss Contax IIa shutter assembly access. This tutorial video shows how to remove the top cover and access the shutter assembly of a Contax IIa.
classic camera repair - phototronic.biz/
A few tools and books - www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcam...
You are responsible for my reviving of about 30 old cameras that had an array of problems. Thankyou. Your videos are by far the best - easy to understand and you always give me a giggle!
Never in my life have I clicked a video so fast. Thank you so much for uploading such a video, it is incomparably helpful. Mine is a Contax II but am assuming it is somewhat similar in terms of process. Thank you again.
Thank you for the great comment and your continued interest in FOC,
Thank you for every details described, very very helpful.
A friend gave me one to service recently (slow speeds not working to well). And your video proved to be a great aid in the disassembly process. Thanks.
This is actually GREAT info about, how to get into the shutter mechanism and what to look for when disassemble. I have Contax II and Contax III that I need to service, Thank's again FOG.
Cheers
Kenneth
Good to hear from one of the originals. Keep'em going.
Usually my dude here is calm and collected. This Contax gote'm stumbling a little bit. Good vid tho
Drunk?
Thank you for this excellent and inspiring tutorial.this is what I need to gather the courage to open my Contax iia as the shutter curtain doesnt close at low speeds.and I wish there was an easy access to the adjusting screw for the curtains. very frustrating to take the whole camera apart just to do this.thank you once again
Very good clear video and commentary, nice work.
Thank you for your words of encouragement and for you interest in FOC.
If you ever happen to come across a Tower 22 with a winder knob and shutter problem I would much appreciate a tutorial on how to fix them. Otherwise, keep the videos coming! I really appreciate the work you do and the information you're willing to share :)
Thank you for the words of support and for your suggestion.
You are a better person than me.
Nope. Maybe a little more experienced with such things... and maybe a lot more foolhardy.
Enjoyable and informative as always :)
Thank you for the kind words of support and for your interest in FOC,
Genius & Accurate ...... as always !!
Thank you for your words of encouragement and for your interest in FOC.
👍🏻Respect! Both for the repairer as the original designer / builder. You would need a hell of a kickstarter nowadays to build such a machine. ✌🏻
Thank you for the excellent comments and observations.
I learn a lot from watching your video. I would like to see a video about Pentax me super viewfinder cleaning and top cover disassembly.
Thank you for your suggestion and for your interest in FOC.
I love this channel and have shared it to lots of camera geeks on Twitter. If you would kindly return the share FOC that would be amazing. Keep it up
Subbed.. ASMR for sleep time
Thanks for the sub.
Once you take the cover off this camera reminds me of a slightly more complicated Argus C3. Maybe some of the complications and overall looseness in tolerances led to the reputation this was a repair magnet?
Slightly more complicated indeed. Maybe is due a FOC feature on the "venable" Argus C3... affectionately known as the "black brick" or the "bento" (a traditional Japanese single serving "lunch box". Did you see in use or on display in your travels to Japan?
Another great video - just a tip, no more gin and tonics before filming a repair video LOL
Enjoyed this video and all your other videos. Do you think you can make one about calibrating a Kalart rangefinder for Graflex cameras. (which are popular nowadays)
Very much would like to make such a video. Hard to say when it might be produced.
I seriously doubt I would have the courage to tear down my Contax IIa. Are all the adjustments there at the bottom of the curtain? My camera occasionally fails to trip the shutterat all , I get a short dead push on the release. At the high speeds ie 250 and up, there is uneven exposure.. I suspect either the first curtain is too slow or the 2nd is starting too soon. This video is very good for tear down and reassembly. Though I probably just don't feel qualified for either, I wanted to understand better how the shutter speeds work.
Is this any different for the black dial version?
I wish you would do a video on the Contarex.
Thank you for the suggestion.
Do you think the disassembly process would be similar for a Contax III / Contax II (pre-war versions) ?
I have a couple Contarex Bullseye with interchangeable backs. Both backs are stuck on the cameras. I bought them used and they are apparently defective in some way. If I take the screws out on the bottom of back, will it come off? thanks
Great... Thank you for your job. Do you Have same pictures or video about the right position of cemented glass in contax iia rangefinder MODULE?I search this information from many years but nothing about rangefinder adjustment. Thank you..
Taking more time than is practical for a comment response but with a curiosity checked the factory service manual and found nothing of note about rangefinder glass positioning. Is it possible you have a lens group that separated?
@@FixOldCameras Good evening and thank you for your kind reply. The contax repair manual oddly shows nothing about the rangefinder adjustment. In the past I had already repositioned the fixed glass of the rangefinder module, but infinity always remained slightly misaligned while the short distance was perfect. The film test also looked very good. I would like to perfectly calibrate the rangefinder of my contax iia but unfortunately there are no photos or videos on the net showing this work. There must be a right position for gluing this glass! Thank you very much for your videos on youtube. ..
@@diegod4679 So is the super-imposed image not perfectly aligned at infinity? It is possible, but not certain, that upon inspection a the positioning needed might be discovered. Presently nothing comes to mind. It could be that it is more a matter of misunderstanding on this end than a lack of an available solution.
Hello, first of all I want to thank this illustrative video is very good,
I have to say that my cameras is the III model ......i have disassembled all the pieces until I access the tension screw of the curtains but the camera is still locked, the curtains are in loading position and the trigger button is locked, I don't know how to free the shutter, can you please give me some idea?
You are welcome. And thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras. Do not adjust the tension on the shutters until you can determine why the mechanism is locked up. It could be there is some small debris blocking the gears. I could be that the lubricants have broken down and are stiff. It could be a timing issue, broken spring or lever that no longer pivots.
@@FixOldCameras
Very good, thank you very much for these ideas, I have disassembled the curtain system, the whole telemeter also the prism and the self-timer, I only have in my hand the top control panel with the selection of speeds and all its wheels, I must say that I have also disassembled almost the entire trigger upper part of button, and it is still locked, I do not understand what the mechanism that releases the curtains directly i think this is the quuestion , for me how it work the release botton to shot the blinds
@@rahandulcaspatal5276 On the underside of the shutter module is a crescent moon shaped plate/lever that is located in the corner opposite the chrome plating. It partially covers the corner gear stack. The plate shall move smoothly for the shutter to release. If it is not, lapping ( a process that produces tight tolerance and good flatness) should help.
@@FixOldCameras its a IIIa , i will attempt is thank
@@FixOldCameras Hello, I have been so long with the camera disassembled that maybe I am losing my perspective a bit. I have checked the lever and its movement is flat and smooth, on the other hand I have disassembled the film drag wheel (easy because it is the one that falls alone in the video), I have also removed the pressure plate that pushes towards arriva (way of black triangle) and I have also disassembled the wheel that connects with the first curtain speed wheel.
In this way I would like to relocate all the parts in the start position Reset before reinstalling the curtain frame assembly. in this way to know if there is a problem in the curtains themselves (which would have to be restarted or not) or some other type of problem in the firing button system either on its lower upper face or on its two notched and eared wheels not visible from outside that is the question what is the starting position? from the system
algo ma hace sospechar que hay un fallo en mi capacidad de entendimiento eso es seguro ha ha
I bought a Contax IIIa today and somehow, when setting the shutter speed dial to B or T, it exposes a 1/250 of a second (or something similiar) instead of staying open as long as you hold the button. Do you have an idea what the issue could be? Thanks in advance...
Not a simple fix, but more than likely repairable.
Completely unrelated, but I'm at a loss...Looking for a video that gives a detailed example of calibrating a Kalart Rangefinder for a Graflex 2x3 Speed Graphic...my old one was damaged and I bought a new one, but I can't find a video showing how to calibrate it. Found a few articles online, but I do better with videos...Any help you can offer would be great. Thanks!
At present FOC has no videos on the Karlart, but hope to have some in the future. Thank you for the comments and your interest in FOC.
Hi you know how to clean the viewfinder of a canon EF camera? Thanks
If the external debris cannot be removed gently with a soft brush or air stream, then distilled water on a lint free cleaning swab following the concentric circles of the focus screen. The inside of the EF focus screen (original micro-split #10-0275-080) is accessed by removing the top cover and prism and VF condenser lens.
@@FixOldCameras thanks its inside te viewfinder so i better take it with some who knows how to disarm it ,thanks!
Man, no wonder cameras are expensive. Look at all that wangdoodle in there
This is what a like old mechanical cameras, you need to disassemble all the camera just for one little thing.
Indeed that can be the case. Thank you for the comment and interest in FOC.
Great video! I lack the skill to do this myself. Could you please pm me of a reputable shop to work on my 1936 Contax IIa? My father took posesion of the camera at the time of capturing the "Eagles Nest" during WWII. I am an avid film shooter.
The back story to this camera is worth hearing.
If you are interested in possible repair. phototronic.biz/service
Hello folks, OFF TOPIC, has anyone got a schematic or a repair manual for a Vivitar 285 Strobe? I was given one that's dead and I'd like to have a go at fixing it. It's probably the transistor in the "chopper" circuit or a dried out capacitor. THANKS, I'd be happy to buy it or pay for a photocopy. P.S. I am an electronics tech (retired) and am aware of the proper handling of high voltage capacitors. Thanks in advance for any concerns. P.S #2 I've pretty much exhausted the internet and have "Sam's Strobe Faq. Thanks, Tom
Good luck Tom. If you can not come up with a schematic maybe a working 285 can be used for reference. (which you, now doubt, already considered)
Yes, I've been looking around Ebay for a working one, (Cheep, LOL) that way I can compare component readings between the two. Anything new with you?
please Nikon S3 for next vdo :)
Do not think it will be next, but thank you for the suggestion. A fine subject for a FOC video.
You can see why the German cameras couldn't compete with the Japanese cameras on cost (and I would say quality and reliability too). No standardisation - what a logistical nightmare. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your interesting observation and comment as well as you interest in Fix Old Cameras. Although elegant in many design aspects...the simple idea of a standardized screw head (JIS crosspoint) surely makes for improved torque and contact. Slotted screws can at times be a struggle.
English sounds like your second language
Yes indeed. Sometimes the outtakes are more enlightening and fun.
I have a zeiss ikon tenax automatic that have a problem, when I use the advance film lever the shutter release, the light meter is working and is in automatic. when I use the lever I have to force it a litter and when the blades of the F diafrag moves they look a little stuck so probably the problem is that is not lubricated, do you know how to fix this problem?