A great video. I have a FT that I inherited from my aunt and it still works great. I have a better understanding of it's inner workings. I stumbled on you website this morning and IT WILL be added to my contact list to view.
... and might we add that classic camera repair, in itself, is a Zen art of sorts... requiring patience and persistence as well as the obvious technical understanding. Although, anyone with an interest should be able to do it... yet, we will spend a lifetime trying to perfecting it.
Thank you for this video. Mine definitely needs this done. I was curious if there was any way to adjust the meter. The meter on mine seems consistent but it's about four stops off.
No adjustment that would bring in a four stop error. Might take a look at the aperture resister and linkage. Also, check the condition of the CDS cells.
Very nicely done.i have 2 nikkormat ft2s but the meter is very jumpy. Any idea how to get it right.can you please do a video on removing the camers lens mount and show the resister around the lens mount
I think you are my last hope for a ridiculous issue i'm having with a Nikkormat that i've had since the 70's but havent used in at least 20 years. My issue is.... i cannot get the lens cover cap off! I dont recall having this issue ever. I press the two clips on the cap/cover but its not budging. Ive kept this in a closed leather bag & feel its been protected from dust but thats the only reason i can think of as to why i cant release this cover cap. Unless there is some button or tab that ive forgotten about? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thank you so much!! xoPam, still Kelli's mom
Terrible advice at 3:46, scratched my prism by removing the spring while the screws were on. It is so much simple to remove the screws and then the springs without any obstruction. I hope it will save somebody’s prism.
Do you have any video about disassemble of the Nikon FE-2? I could not figure out how to remove the ISO dial section. My light meter is dead. Needle is stuck down position. Any clue on how to fix it? Thank you one more time. You saved my cameras so many times.
A feature of the removal ASA/ISO dial and related parts would be a nice subject for a FOC video. In the meantime... remove the rewind knob. Remove the rewind shaft lock lever and spring. Remove the two screws and "post screw" (a tricky little turd... a sturdy pair of pointed tweezers often does the trick on it) The retaining ring can then be removed.
A good suggestion and thank you for your interest in FOC. But the list is long and for the most part random. Hard to say when such a video might appear.
Hello F.O.C. and F.O.C. followers. I'm sure you are aware of these tips, but some followers of your videos may not be. There is a little spring hook set available from Harbor Freight. (www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html) It consists of 4 various screwdriver type handles with various hooks. The hooks snag a spring and allow it to be pulled into position. One can also use straight wire hooked end as a lever to lift and slide a spring into place. Slotted screws can be a pain as you illustrate in this video. Micro Mark (www.micromark.com) still sells a small wedge style screw starter that fits many small screws. (Quick Wedge Screwdriver / Screw Starter Item #: 83512). There is also an old trick whereby a little masking tape cut in a tiny strip will allow the screwdriver tip to wedge and hold the screw temporally. A magnetic tip will also work if the screws are ferrous metal. An old hard-drive has a few neodymium magnets inside that are excellent to magnetize a screwdriver tip. Harbor Freight also sells small ceramic magnets that do the trick easily. Easily obtainable on-line are products called Screw Chk-er. These are heavy metal plates either in Metric or Inch that have many tapped holes drilled so you can accurately measure the size and thread of a slotted or cross-point screw, so you can easily find a cross-point substitute for slotted screw. (www.threadtoolsupply.com/screw-checker.html) I hope these tips help some of you out there. (NOTE, web links are only provided for you to see the products mentioned, they are not endorsements of any particular business. Consider them as a starting point to see the tools, nothing more. Thanks and Regards to all...Tom P.S. I see the tools link provided here by F.O.C. has some of these tools shown.
Thank you for taking the time to share your tips.The tape trick works particularly well. Tools for manipulating obstinate springs into submission can be most useful. Although some stubborn folk, simply insist on using tweezers... Magnetizing cross point screwdrivers works very well. Sometimes a magnetized slotted screwdriver is counter productive, but not always. LOL... never magnetize your tweezers, unless you truly want to test your patience. Keep 'em going.
Hello, I need to replace the focus screen of my nikkormat ft2, could you sell me a spare one and send it to Argentina? or in any case, would you tell me where I can get it? From already thank you very much!
Typically the only source for parts for most classic cameras are donor cameras. Also, check to see if you have Beattie Intenscreen dealer in Argentina, they might supply a bright screen version for your camera.
You are the “Bob Ross” of camera repair! Thank you for doing what you do.
Thank you for the kind words. "The joy of fixing old cameras... why not. Although Bob has way more hair. And thank you for your interest in FOC.
A great video. I have a FT that I inherited from my aunt and it still works great. I have a better understanding of it's inner workings.
I stumbled on you website this morning and IT WILL be added to my contact list to view.
6:00 the spring putting back part - oh man, the times I had this kind of experiences. Zen.... count to 10...
Kinda funny and too true... maybe a even a 20 count accompanied by 4-4-4-4 box breathing technique... in-hold-out-hold...
Thank you for this interesting video .
You are welcome and thank you for your interest in FOC.
Great, I know how to clean the dusty prism in my nikomat ft2 now.
Right on.
helps me alot,thanks.
Very good. Thank you for your interest in FOC.
Thanks. Always enjoy the zen of it all.
Right on and thank you so much for you interest in Fix Old Cameras.
... and might we add that classic camera repair, in itself, is a Zen art of sorts... requiring patience and persistence as well as the obvious technical understanding. Although, anyone with an interest should be able to do it... yet, we will spend a lifetime trying to perfecting it.
Thank you for this video. Mine definitely needs this done. I was curious if there was any way to adjust the meter. The meter on mine seems consistent but it's about four stops off.
No adjustment that would bring in a four stop error. Might take a look at the aperture resister and linkage. Also, check the condition of the CDS cells.
Very nicely done.i have 2 nikkormat ft2s but the meter is very jumpy. Any idea how to get it right.can you please do a video on removing the camers lens mount and show the resister around the lens mount
I think you are my last hope for a ridiculous issue i'm having with a Nikkormat that i've had since the 70's but havent used in at least 20 years. My issue is.... i cannot get the lens cover cap off! I dont recall having this issue ever. I press the two clips on the cap/cover but its not budging. Ive kept this in a closed leather bag & feel its been protected from dust but thats the only reason i can think of as to why i cant release this cover cap. Unless there is some button or tab that ive forgotten about? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thank you so much!! xoPam, still Kelli's mom
that does look quite improvised.
Do all ftn have dented covers. Can't they be pushed back while the cover is off
Terrible advice at 3:46, scratched my prism by removing the spring while the screws were on. It is so much simple to remove the screws and then the springs without any obstruction. I hope it will save somebody’s prism.
Do you have any video about disassemble of the Nikon FE-2? I could not figure out how to remove the ISO dial section. My light meter is dead. Needle is stuck down position. Any clue on how to fix it? Thank you one more time. You saved my cameras so many times.
A feature of the removal ASA/ISO dial and related parts would be a nice subject for a FOC video. In the meantime... remove the rewind knob. Remove the rewind shaft lock lever and spring. Remove the two screws and "post screw" (a tricky little turd... a sturdy pair of pointed tweezers often does the trick on it) The retaining ring can then be removed.
Very good, thank you 🍉🍉🍉
Thank you for your interest in FOC.
Can you do a video on repairing the FTN light meter?
A good suggestion and thank you for your interest in FOC. But the list is long and for the most part random. Hard to say when such a video might appear.
@@FixOldCameras how calibrates the light meter ? Amazin video!!!
Hello F.O.C. and F.O.C. followers. I'm sure you are aware of these tips, but some followers of your videos may not be. There is a little spring hook set available from Harbor Freight. (www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html) It consists of 4 various screwdriver type handles with various hooks. The hooks snag a spring and allow it to be pulled into position. One can also use straight wire hooked end as a lever to lift and slide a spring into place. Slotted screws can be a pain as you illustrate in this video. Micro Mark (www.micromark.com) still sells a small wedge style screw starter that fits many small screws. (Quick Wedge Screwdriver / Screw Starter Item #: 83512). There is also an old trick whereby a little masking tape cut in a tiny strip will allow the screwdriver tip to wedge and hold the screw temporally. A magnetic tip will also work if the screws are ferrous metal. An old hard-drive has a few neodymium magnets inside that are excellent to magnetize a screwdriver tip. Harbor Freight also sells small ceramic magnets that do the trick easily. Easily obtainable on-line are products called Screw Chk-er. These are heavy metal plates either in Metric or Inch that have many tapped holes drilled so you can accurately measure the size and thread of a slotted or cross-point screw, so you can easily find a cross-point substitute for slotted screw. (www.threadtoolsupply.com/screw-checker.html) I hope these tips help some of you out there. (NOTE, web links are only provided for you to see the products mentioned, they are not endorsements of any particular business. Consider them as a starting point to see the tools, nothing more. Thanks and Regards to all...Tom
P.S. I see the tools link provided here by F.O.C. has some of these tools shown.
Thank you for taking the time to share your tips.The tape trick works particularly well. Tools for manipulating obstinate springs into submission can be most useful. Although some stubborn folk, simply insist on using tweezers... Magnetizing cross point screwdrivers works very well. Sometimes a magnetized slotted screwdriver is counter productive, but not always. LOL... never magnetize your tweezers, unless you truly want to test your patience. Keep 'em going.
Does Nikomat EL and Nikon FE has the same prism?
It is possible that the prisms of the EL and the FT N might be interchangeable. Do not absolutely know.
The more I see this video the more comfortable I get with the dust on top of the focus screen of my ftn 😆
I don't have the dexterity to do this.
No worries. A few dust specs dust can easily be ignored.
@@FixOldCameras - what are the best tool sets one can purchase to do the great repair work you do! Thanks & keep up the great videos!
Hello, I need to replace the focus screen of my nikkormat ft2, could you sell me a spare one and send it to Argentina? or in any case, would you tell me where I can get it? From already thank you very much!
Typically the only source for parts for most classic cameras are donor cameras. Also, check to see if you have Beattie Intenscreen dealer in Argentina, they might supply a bright screen version for your camera.