Another awesome video! Thank you for putting these out there. Very interesting! I will read up on this because I want to understand it fully before changing a classic stock camera, and label the camera so that future users will know what was done to it.
Hi again, Another option more easy to install consists in removing bottom of the camera (only 2 screws to remove) Then you can insert the diode between battery holder and red wire... ;) Very easy
I tried your method and realized right away that it wasn’t going to be as “easy” as you say it is. You have barely any room to work with, and getting the battery holder out of the frame was a real pain. Not to mention how much more difficult it would be to get it back in with a diode attached to it. So I buttoned the bottom back up, and had the top off in about five minutes. The mod took another five minutes at most. I had it done in the same amount of time it took me to try to figure out the logistics of doing it at the bottom, and now my Nikkormat meters perfectly. Sometimes other people might know more than you. Maybe you should learn something, instead of telling them they’re doing it wrong.
Thanks for the tutorial. After watching your video on removing the top cover and prism removal on the Ftn with the NOT original film advance lever i hoped you showed how to remove the original Ftn,s lever without the holes. Does it also turn ?
Can you please show how to disassemble the front parts of camera i.e., aperture ring and shutter speed ring? A shutter speed ring on my Nikkormat FT2 gets stuck. Thank you.
That is a tricky repair because of the meter linkage, but would still make a good subject for a FOC feature. Hard to say when such a video might be produced.
Not sure if you saw it on the other video. Would you ever consider recording something like the replacement of the shutter straps on the Contax II or III? I have a Contax 2 that needs the straps replaced, and a video would be extremely helpful.
harry zet Was that the question I asked? I believe that with sufficient instruction and practice I should be able to do it. I’m going to get a Kiev to practice on first. Once I have sufficient skills I will attempt the Contax.
It is possible that such a video might at some time be made. At the very least a video that shows how to access the wind mechanism/ shutter module might be in order. Indeed the access to the module is involved and success is ultimately going to tied to your skill level, patience and persistence. Like with so many things we have yet to learn, if we can learn the very next thing in the process that we do not know and not jump ahead beyond that thing, then success might be in our reach.
Fix Old Cameras There’s a very well done article by Richard Haw on replacing the straps, but there are a good number of things left out. When he talks about taping a certain shaft/how it would be done, and the actual stitching method is rather cryptic. As I said, I plan to practice on a Kiev first. I really hope you do make a video, it would be amazing, as all of your content is. Thanks for responding.
I was just trying this on my FT N following this tutorial and it didn't quite work, but I did get it working with another method. I installed a diode into the red wire shown in the video but I didn't see any change in the meter sensitivity. I even tried using 2 diodes and still no change. Even with the red wire cut and disconnected the meter was still working. So, at least in my camera, the red wire that runs into the meter housing doesn't seem to have any function with the meter. However alongside the red wire is a black wire. I spliced the diode into this black wire and that got my meter adjusted and matching my digital camera.
There are a few minor adjustments that could be covered. Such as using the eccentric screw on the ASA cam follower for a linear adjustment. NOTE: The OM-2 circuit has MOS ICs - always touch any tool to the body of the camera first before allowing it to come in contact with circuit adjustment points.
Thank's for video. The diode used is so... huge. As an alternative, you can use schottky diodes, which are easy to find, smaller, less expensive, and offers best reliability/results. As an example AK06 has a voltage drop of about 0.15V @ 25°C for a 0.5mA current. This is just perfect. The 1N5817 matches as well. Less than 0.5USD, you can get them at digikey.com, mouser.com, and sometimes free as samples.
Another awesome video! Thank you for putting these out there. Very interesting! I will read up on this because I want to understand it fully before changing a classic stock camera, and label the camera so that future users will know what was done to it.
Hi again, Another option more easy to install consists in removing bottom of the camera (only 2 screws to remove) Then you can insert the diode between battery holder and red wire... ;) Very easy
Keep'em going. Thank you for the comments.
I tried your method and realized right away that it wasn’t going to be as “easy” as you say it is. You have barely any room to work with, and getting the battery holder out of the frame was a real pain. Not to mention how much more difficult it would be to get it back in with a diode attached to it.
So I buttoned the bottom back up, and had the top off in about five minutes. The mod took another five minutes at most.
I had it done in the same amount of time it took me to try to figure out the logistics of doing it at the bottom, and now my Nikkormat meters perfectly.
Sometimes other people might know more than you. Maybe you should learn something, instead of telling them they’re doing it wrong.
@@barbsfpv3066 he was nicely making another suggestion, not criticizing, not telling him what he did wrong. holy cow. take a chill pill. lol
I take it the voltage drop across the diode makes up for using a 1.5v cell rather than the 1.35v original?
Fascinating! I had no idea it was such a simple procedure.
Thanks for the tutorial. After watching your video on removing the top cover and prism removal on the Ftn with the NOT original film advance lever i hoped you showed how to remove the original Ftn,s lever without the holes. Does it also turn ?
It does. A friction wrench (stopper) will be needed. The back of a discarded mouse pad will sometimes work it you have a strong thumb.
Thank you
What diode is used for a Nikkormat FT? Also - can you explain a bit more how to calibrate the meter?
Can you please show how to disassemble the front parts of camera i.e., aperture ring and shutter speed ring? A shutter speed ring on my Nikkormat FT2 gets stuck. Thank you.
That is a tricky repair because of the meter linkage, but would still make a good subject for a FOC feature. Hard to say when such a video might be produced.
Not sure if you saw it on the other video. Would you ever consider recording something like the replacement of the shutter straps on the Contax II or III? I have a Contax 2 that needs the straps replaced, and a video would be extremely helpful.
believe me, you wont be able to repair the contax yourself. it has one of the most complicated shutters ever built in a camera
harry zet Was that the question I asked? I believe that with sufficient instruction and practice I should be able to do it. I’m going to get a Kiev to practice on first. Once I have sufficient skills I will attempt the Contax.
It is possible that such a video might at some time be made. At the very least a video that shows how to access the wind mechanism/ shutter module might be in order. Indeed the access to the module is involved and success is ultimately going to tied to your skill level, patience and persistence. Like with so many things we have yet to learn, if we can learn the very next thing in the process that we do not know and not jump ahead beyond that thing, then success might be in our reach.
Fix Old Cameras There’s a very well done article by Richard Haw on replacing the straps, but there are a good number of things left out. When he talks about taping a certain shaft/how it would be done, and the actual stitching method is rather cryptic. As I said, I plan to practice on a Kiev first. I really hope you do make a video, it would be amazing, as all of your content is. Thanks for responding.
what's the small difference?
I was just trying this on my FT N following this tutorial and it didn't quite work, but I did get it working with another method. I installed a diode into the red wire shown in the video but I didn't see any change in the meter sensitivity. I even tried using 2 diodes and still no change. Even with the red wire cut and disconnected the meter was still working. So, at least in my camera, the red wire that runs into the meter housing doesn't seem to have any function with the meter.
However alongside the red wire is a black wire. I spliced the diode into this black wire and that got my meter adjusted and matching my digital camera.
please make a video how to calibrate light meter on olympus OM2
There are a few minor adjustments that could be covered. Such as using the eccentric screw on the ASA cam follower for a linear adjustment. NOTE: The OM-2 circuit has MOS ICs - always touch any tool to the body of the camera first before allowing it to come in contact with circuit adjustment points.
Where to obtain the diode?
One source - phototronic.biz/tips (by the diode modification)
Fix Old Cameras Thanks.
Thank's for video.
The diode used is so... huge.
As an alternative, you can use schottky diodes, which are easy to find, smaller, less expensive, and offers best reliability/results.
As an example AK06 has a voltage drop of about 0.15V @ 25°C for a 0.5mA current. This is just perfect.
The 1N5817 matches as well.
Less than 0.5USD, you can get them at digikey.com, mouser.com, and sometimes free as samples.
Thank you for your interest in FOC and for your tips and comments.