You made a double trap (against code)by glueing the trap straight onto the venting joint. You MUST install a straight pipe between the trap and the venting pipe ( pipe length: atleast twice the diameter of the trap.)
Code in what state though? It's made for a 16" stud bay. He would never be able to pipe it this way with the corner nailers of that closet right there for sheetrock. He would have to turn the assembly around and pip the other way to add the length you are speaking of.
I'm no plumber, but that short horizontal run from the standpipe U to the T makes this essentially an S trap. A P trap needs a longer run. Imagine the letter P laying sideways. It has a long flat run that is supposed to be a minimum length that is twice the diameter of the pipe. In this instance the run should be 4 inches. S traps can siphon water from the trap and let sewer gas into the room.
@@jcallesano It's code to avoid S traps (that can suck the trap dry). He would need a minimum 4 inch length of 2 inch pipe between the Weir of the P trap and the sanitary T. If that means going through a non supporting stud, that's what he must do.
@Jess Melgar This is no municipality that allows an double s-trap and for good reason: the trap can be vacated of water which will allow dangerous sewer gases in the house. So, no, we don’t have to be an inspector in his state, it’s common sense really.
I really like that split box system. Makes for a much cleaner look. I always worry the receptacle is too close so I add a scrap 2x4 spacer so I don’t have to mess with it after drywall. Cutting it close with that trim and plate. My next build I’m going to install either an easy access (not behind machine) shut off or, better yet, one of those systems that automatically shuts off laundry water when not in use. I invested in some WiFi water alarms. The older I get, the more people I know who have had houses flooded for one reason or another. Burst watching machine lines, leaky condensate lines, Sump pumps burned out, ejectors burned out, mice chewing through dishwasher lines, lightning strikes arcing copper etc.
Hey Paul, you know, it might be worth explaining to people what the purpose of plumbing vents are. Most people think it's to 'vent' the stink of the pipe contents and don't know that it's to aid the flow of fluids within the pipes. I once used a drinking straw to demonstrate to my wife - dip it in water and block end with your thumb and the contents won't flow but as soon as you open up the other end of the straw and provide the 'vent' the contents run out. You'd be surprised how many people don't know this.
I wish it was to get rid of the stink! Opened up and repaired much in my 55 yrs and it's just as awful now as when I first started doing them! Never ceases to amaze me how some people think their sh1t don't stink...
Install some metal drywall flat plates to protect your piping from drywall nails and baseboard trim nails. It becomes a nightmare if you get a nail through your piping and develop a slow leak. Great job!
I'm liking this because of the nail plate idea. Unfortunately, on the drain/vent side, he did not do a good job. Total fail unfortunately. He created a crown vent (which allows water to be siphoned out of the trap- much like an S-trap).
HI Paul, I found your channel over the weekend while looking up info on under-slab plumbing, and it was so informative and so well done I went back and watched the whole playlist from episode 1 to present. Looking forward to following along with your build! God bless!
Are you using IPC code? Your washer box waste drop looks a little short for UPC code out here on the west coast. We are required to make the drop from the box 18” to 30” long, and the trap center 6” to 12” to center from the subfloor. I usually set my top of box at around 39” to the top of the box, and that puts my install right in the middle of both measurements. Clean install by the way.
There is a max drop to for IPC is there not of 39'' to 43" ? I want to say there is so as to not have the weight of the water cypin the water seal out of your trap so you do not end up with sewer smell issues later from a dry trap..
The framer framed it wrong 😂 Great videos, just caught up binge watching this whole series, your work is flawless, so much attention to detail (apart from that wall lol). Looking forward to the next instalment 👍🏻👊🏻
Something I've seen people do to address water-hammer, even in high end homes, is to just loop the PEX on itself in the wall, but leave the loop unsecured so that it can flex and absorb the shock. No extra parts or connections, just 3 extra feet of PEX.
After watching your video, I realized that it is not going to work for me (LOL), having all the PVC pipes between two 16 O.C. studs. FL requires a little distance (a short PVC piece, 2x the pipe diameter) between the p-trap and the sanitary-T.
I will start with the positives first. The view of the oxbox things is nice. The pex manifold and runs of the waterlines are nice and neat. You explained things very concisely and spoke very clearly. So I appreciate that. I wish I didn't have any negative input, but... Unfortunately, on the drain/vent side this is a plumbing code FAIL for multiple reasons. First, you created a crown vent (IPC 909.3). Second, you failed to install a cleanout on the vent pipe (IPC 802.4.3). Third, , it appears that the pipe lengths above and below the trap weir may be incorrect but it is difficult to say without a measuring tape (802.4.3 again). IPC and UPC have the same rules for crown vents and minimum heights for standpipes but they differ in maximum height and possibly in maximum trap arm length. IPC 909.3 Crown vent A vent shall not be installed within two pipe diameters of the trap weir. IPC 802.4.3 Standpipes. Standpipes shall be individually trapped. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to all standpipes and drains for rodding. I can't seem to locate the number section for UPC (as I'm under IPC & don't have that handy) but the code says: No stand pipe receptor for any clothes washer shall extend more than thirty (30) inches (762mm), nor less than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above its trap. No trap for any clothes washer stand pipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6) inches (152mm) and not more than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above the floor. Why is a crown vent bad? Like a S-trap, it allows water to be siphoned out of the trap which then allows sewer gases to enter the home.
Where you stuffed the insulation in the drain hole it had the white cap that was there how do you get the cap out does it pop out or do you gotta cut it out. The hole that you put the drain hose in from the washer
This creates a S trap and can cause siphon. It's required to have some space between trap and san T. Space depending on the size and there is a table. I also have limited space between studs and I'm trying to find a solution.
Yeah this isn’t to plumbing code the distance between the trap and the sanitary tee must be double the diameter of the pipe size for your setup there would need to be at least 4” in between
I like the separate water and drain 💯💯💯……for future ref your sani tee should have been 3*2*3 …..WHY ?? Newer washers have a 20 gal\min pump and when u drain into a 2” sani tee, it can’t keep up .
umm maybe its your county code, but the washer outlet should be a regular 15amp 3 prong a GFI in that location will always trip especially if they are stacked unit. your breaker however should be ground fault breakers with the pig tail
Would you ever consider making a video about what video equipment you use, and what software, and the work you put in to making the great videos? I would love to learn what it takes to share information like this with the world.
Will you be running data or network cable throughout the house while you have the chance with the frame exposed now that you have done electrical and most of the plumbing ?
The stand pipe from your washer box to the trap weir needs to be a minimum of 18 inches. It looks like you are a bit short... The inspectors here in California look for that [CPC 804.1]. I think the UPC has the same requirement now.
@@stevehaken the stand is typically 36 to 42 inch from floor but the trap weir is min 6 inches from floor and max 18 inches from the floor that's my code it even comes with diagrams marked clearly but codes are different from state to state your Probably correct in your state
What is the current required or recommended drop from the washer drain opening to the trap? I have seen at my old house and families when changing over to High Efficiency washers the washer pushes out the waste at such a rate that you can overflow the drain. Easy fix in a an unfinished part of a basement! not so much in a finished laundry room.
That air trap made of pipe you described as an option, code doesn't recognize as hammer arrestor, since air dissolves in the water eventually and then it becomes pointless
Isn't that an s trap, which isn't up to code? Moving drain over one cavity would have saved the day with at least a 4-in horizontal to the sanitary. Sorry if somebody mentioned that already.
Slightly off topic..the levers to operate the water supply are small and tight between the water hammer arrestors. Anyone ever seen or made an extension handle to make it easier to shut the water on/off every wash time? Especially when you are leaning over the washing machine somewhat! Any idea welcome...Thx
Ah! You must look into getting a heat pump clothes dryer. They need NO VENTING! They are extremely efficient and in time pay for themselves!! Please look into them ad they will save you needing to vent.
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
This man does not know plumbing code. Code requires the vertical standpipe to be a minimum of 18 inches in length - and the horizontal pipe must be a minimum of 4 inches. He also did not comment with regards to how high up you install your box.
Your plumbing is incorrect… that is 2” pipe which means you will need at least 4” of pipe between outlet of trap and inlet of San tee..otherwise you just created an “S” trap which is an illegal trap..
WRONG... S trap code violation.... must be at least 2 or more pipe diameters from the Weir of the P trap and the sanitary T.... and have a downward slope drain...
What is right about this video? The wall should be 2x6 instead of 2x4, the box to trap drop should be 18-24", the trap to tee distance is less than 2x pipe diameter, the joints weren't cleaned before gluing & the studs need nail plates. Wasted 15 minutes of my life on this video & commenting.
You made a double trap (against code)by glueing the trap straight onto the venting joint. You MUST install a straight pipe between the trap and the venting pipe ( pipe length: atleast twice the diameter of the trap.)
Code in what state though? It's made for a 16" stud bay. He would never be able to pipe it this way with the corner nailers of that closet right there for sheetrock. He would have to turn the assembly around and pip the other way to add the length you are speaking of.
I'm no plumber, but that short horizontal run from the standpipe U to the T makes this essentially an S trap. A P trap needs a longer run. Imagine the letter P laying sideways. It has a long flat run that is supposed to be a minimum length that is twice the diameter of the pipe. In this instance the run should be 4 inches. S traps can siphon water from the trap and let sewer gas into the room.
@@jcallesano It's code to avoid S traps (that can suck the trap dry). He would need a minimum 4 inch length of 2 inch pipe between the Weir of the P trap and the sanitary T. If that means going through a non supporting stud, that's what he must do.
@@jcallesano its national. International plumbing code (ipc) I'm sure this failed inspection
@Jess Melgar This is no municipality that allows an double s-trap and for good reason: the trap can be vacated of water which will allow dangerous sewer gases in the house. So, no, we don’t have to be an inspector in his state, it’s common sense really.
I really like that split box system. Makes for a much cleaner look.
I always worry the receptacle is too close so I add a scrap 2x4 spacer so I don’t have to mess with it after drywall. Cutting it close with that trim and plate.
My next build I’m going to install either an easy access (not behind machine) shut off or, better yet, one of those systems that automatically shuts off laundry water when not in use.
I invested in some WiFi water alarms.
The older I get, the more people I know who have had houses flooded for one reason or another. Burst watching machine lines, leaky condensate lines, Sump pumps burned out, ejectors burned out, mice chewing through dishwasher lines, lightning strikes arcing copper etc.
Looking forward to seeing the washer and dryer installed, thanks for sharing! 😊👍💕💕💕
Thanks for watching!
Hey Paul, you know, it might be worth explaining to people what the purpose of plumbing vents are. Most people think it's to 'vent' the stink of the pipe contents and don't know that it's to aid the flow of fluids within the pipes. I once used a drinking straw to demonstrate to my wife - dip it in water and block end with your thumb and the contents won't flow but as soon as you open up the other end of the straw and provide the 'vent' the contents run out. You'd be surprised how many people don't know this.
I wish it was to get rid of the stink! Opened up and repaired much in my 55 yrs and it's just as awful now as when I first started doing them! Never ceases to amaze me how some people think their sh1t don't stink...
Install some metal drywall flat plates to protect your piping from drywall nails and baseboard trim nails. It becomes a nightmare if you get a nail through your piping and develop a slow leak. Great job!
I'm liking this because of the nail plate idea. Unfortunately, on the drain/vent side, he did not do a good job. Total fail unfortunately. He created a crown vent (which allows water to be siphoned out of the trap- much like an S-trap).
Great job fixing to do this to my house. Your right lots more room in a 2x6 wall
Enjoying the show
Thanks!
Thank you for sharing and explaining your logic and insights.
Thanks for watching!
HI Paul, I found your channel over the weekend while looking up info on under-slab plumbing, and it was so informative and so well done I went back and watched the whole playlist from episode 1 to present. Looking forward to following along with your build! God bless!
Thanks so much for joining us! Email us at info@marshallremodel.com if you have more questions.
Are you using IPC code? Your washer box waste drop looks a little short for UPC code out here on the west coast. We are required to make the drop from the box 18” to 30” long, and the trap center 6” to 12” to center from the subfloor. I usually set my top of box at around 39” to the top of the box, and that puts my install right in the middle of both measurements. Clean install by the way.
There is a max drop to for IPC is there not of 39'' to 43" ? I want to say there is so as to not have the weight of the water cypin the water seal out of your trap so you do not end up with sewer smell issues later from a dry trap..
I agree.
Stacks are higher
And how does he test once he's removed the cap on the washer box? Wouldn't the water flood out?
The framer framed it wrong 😂
Great videos, just caught up binge watching this whole series, your work is flawless, so much attention to detail (apart from that wall lol).
Looking forward to the next instalment 👍🏻👊🏻
Thanks for following along! Appreciate the comment.
I was hoping you take a outside shot 😊so we can see how the grass is doing.
We'll show an update on that this week probably. It's coming in nice!
I know Marshall that you will give us a smile one day: LOL
Great video thanks
I'll sneak it into a video and only those paying attention will catch it lol
Something I've seen people do to address water-hammer, even in high end homes, is to just loop the PEX on itself in the wall, but leave the loop unsecured so that it can flex and absorb the shock. No extra parts or connections, just 3 extra feet of PEX.
After watching your video, I realized that it is not going to work for me (LOL), having all the PVC pipes between two 16 O.C. studs. FL requires a little distance (a short PVC piece, 2x the pipe diameter) between the p-trap and the sanitary-T.
Yes, he is wrong
Stand pipe must be 2’ minimum
Trap arm must be double pipe diameter minimum
Depends on the local code. ALWAYS check your code!
Great work
Thanks!
Great video. So simple with pex. They use hidrobronce here in Argentina, soldered with silver bar
Thanks!
I will start with the positives first. The view of the oxbox things is nice. The pex manifold and runs of the waterlines are nice and neat. You explained things very concisely and spoke very clearly. So I appreciate that. I wish I didn't have any negative input, but...
Unfortunately, on the drain/vent side this is a plumbing code FAIL for multiple reasons. First, you created a crown vent (IPC 909.3). Second, you failed to install a cleanout on the vent pipe (IPC 802.4.3). Third, , it appears that the pipe lengths above and below the trap weir may be incorrect but it is difficult to say without a measuring tape (802.4.3 again). IPC and UPC have the same rules for crown vents and minimum heights for standpipes but they differ in maximum height and possibly in maximum trap arm length.
IPC 909.3 Crown vent
A vent shall not be installed within two pipe diameters of the trap weir.
IPC 802.4.3 Standpipes.
Standpipes shall be individually trapped.
Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir.
Access shall be provided to all standpipes and drains for rodding.
I can't seem to locate the number section for UPC (as I'm under IPC & don't have that handy) but the code says: No stand pipe receptor for any clothes washer shall extend more than thirty (30) inches (762mm), nor less than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above its trap. No trap for any clothes washer stand pipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6) inches (152mm) and not more than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above the floor.
Why is a crown vent bad? Like a S-trap, it allows water to be siphoned out of the trap which then allows sewer gases to enter the home.
Except a clean out is not required at a laundry box or standpipe
36 from the ground thanks needed that info
Great coverage of mounting.
Where you stuffed the insulation in the drain hole it had the white cap that was there how do you get the cap out does it pop out or do you gotta cut it out. The hole that you put the drain hose in from the washer
Off the subject of this episode, have you decided what type of slide by the stairs you plan to install?
Thanks for the reminder! I’m also excited to see the finished slide
Yes! We'll be working on it one of these days!
Nice video. sorry for the dumb question 9:08 is the arm position off right now? If pull down then the water will be supplied?
This creates a S trap and can cause siphon. It's required to have some space between trap and san T. Space depending on the size and there is a table. I also have limited space between studs and I'm trying to find a solution.
Yeah this isn’t to plumbing code the distance between the trap and the sanitary tee must be double the diameter of the pipe size for your setup there would need to be at least 4” in between
You have to have at least min 4inches of straight pipe between trap and tee
Sorry for the question, why don’t you use primer when gluing the pvc paipa?
How and when did you remove the cap located inside of the box?
Wondering the same
I would be interested to have your opinion on putting a floor drain under the laundry. Just in case the water should get away from you.
A great idea I have been wanting to do that in a house for years
But how did he remove the drain hole cover???!!!??
I like the separate water and drain 💯💯💯……for future ref your sani tee should have been 3*2*3 …..WHY ?? Newer washers have a 20 gal\min pump and when u drain into a 2” sani tee, it can’t keep up .
You need a 4" gap between your p-trap and many other connection
umm maybe its your county code, but the washer outlet should be a regular 15amp 3 prong a GFI in that location will always trip especially if they are stacked unit. your breaker however should be ground fault breakers with the pig tail
Would you ever consider making a video about what video equipment you use, and what software, and the work you put in to making the great videos? I would love to learn what it takes to share information like this with the world.
Thanks for the idea!
I just saying that the stand pipe to the trap is to short for some areas I know here it has to be 36 to 42 inches,
Will you be running data or network cable throughout the house while you have the chance with the frame exposed now that you have done electrical and most of the plumbing ?
Yes we will!
Thank You for information!
What is minimum dimension from box to water trip ???
Thank You so much 😊!!!
Minimum is 18" up to 30"
The stand pipe from your washer box to the trap weir needs to be a minimum of 18 inches. It looks like you are a bit short... The inspectors here in California look for that [CPC 804.1]. I think the UPC has the same requirement now.
In my state it's min 6 inch from floor to trap weir and max 18 inch from floor to weir
@@plumbbuild6517 I found the UPC code it is 6 +18 = 24 minimum. The typical is 36" above the floor. They site a flood-level height reasoning.
@@stevehaken the stand is typically 36 to 42 inch from floor but the trap weir is min 6 inches from floor and max 18 inches from the floor that's my code it even comes with diagrams marked clearly but codes are different from state to state your Probably correct in your state
What is the current required or recommended drop from the washer drain opening to the trap? I have seen at my old house and families when changing over to High Efficiency washers the washer pushes out the waste at such a rate that you can overflow the drain. Easy fix in a an unfinished part of a basement! not so much in a finished laundry room.
It should be min 6 inches from floor to water level in P- trap and max 18 inches thats code in my state
@unikrenovationsllc is correct....more distance is required by code between P trap and vent. This is an illegal installation
Notice how the vent is tied in, if the vent was further away this would not work because the water creates a syphon and will empty the trap
That air trap made of pipe you described as an option, code doesn't recognize as hammer arrestor, since air dissolves in the water eventually and then it becomes pointless
Tool trailer video. I wanna see tools and organization.
They need to get organized for sure! It would be a cool video.
what is the distance from the floor to the bottom of the box.??
I think you need atleast 6 inches between the vent and that trap. Just trying to help
Rather than venting in the attic why not use an air admittance valve at the washer-dryer(AAV)?
What did you use for furring strips? Did you rip down a 2x6?
Doesn’t look like you use any primer before the glue??
You have made a S trap you need to have your vent connection 4 inch’s from you p trap or it will suck the trap dry by code
Isn't that an s trap, which isn't up to code? Moving drain over one cavity would have saved the day with at least a 4-in horizontal to the sanitary. Sorry if somebody mentioned that already.
Slightly off topic..the levers to operate the water supply are small and tight between the water hammer arrestors. Anyone ever seen or made an extension handle to make it easier to shut the water on/off every wash time? Especially when you are leaning over the washing machine somewhat! Any idea welcome...Thx
Curious about the insulation plan for this home. I see spray foam in the walls. Are you going with spray foam in the roof or blow-in in the ceiling?
We went with blown-in insulation in the attic.
Hey Paul,do you have a link for the PEX crimping tool? I didn't see it in your toolbox.
@Jason Canmore I updated our amazon store so it’s in there now.
Ah! You must look into getting a heat pump clothes dryer. They need NO VENTING! They are extremely efficient and in time pay for themselves!! Please look into them ad they will save you needing to vent.
Thanks for the suggestion... we will take a look!
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
From all the things I’ve read the trap can never be installed below the floor.
Nice little S trap you built yourself there...lol
In my state u wouldn't pass inspection.
Are those shock absorbers on the top of the faucets?
Yes, hammer arresters
Out of curiosity why not use some AAVs(Air Admittance Valve) instead of going through the roof?
they are not approved everywhere
Always best to vent to outside whenever possible.
Haha I’m just a DIYer and I would never do this shit work…he made an S trap. Scary.
Trap arm too short, and possible stand pipe too small. FAILED INSPECTION
This man does not know plumbing code. Code requires the vertical standpipe to be a minimum of 18 inches in length - and the horizontal pipe must be a minimum of 4 inches. He also did not comment with regards to how high up you install your box.
I would double check that the receptacle and your drain box trim plates don’t touch. Look pretty close
Thats gonna let out sewr gas due to lack of atleast 4" from the trap to the drain pipe.
Guess you didn’t need to prime it.In some places you would fail if they don’t see the purple stuff
you are agains code.... there should be at least 4" between the trap and the vent pipe... make in 5" minimum and you should have no problem!!!!
From Your S Drain pipe There Must BE 4'' Pipe in between!!! OR IT COULD SUCK DRY!!!
Your plumbing is incorrect… that is 2” pipe which means you will need at least 4” of pipe between outlet of trap and inlet of San tee..otherwise you just created an “S” trap which is an illegal trap..
Does anyone live in a house where all the hott domestic and baseboard is run with pex? If so you will never run hott with pex ever again i promise.
4:28 - wouldn't it have been easier to just take the top of the P trap off and leave the rest on? Then that'd be your last glue step... oh well.
Looks like an s trap to me. That’ll suck the water right outta your p trap and could lead to sewer gas backing up.
The air will suck your trap dry
You are creating an S-trap which is wrong
WRONG... S trap code violation.... must be at least 2 or more pipe diameters from the Weir of the P trap and the sanitary T.... and have a downward slope drain...
That is 100% illegal the way you installed this in multiple ways
Then made a RUclips video to advertise it 😱
What is right about this video? The wall should be 2x6 instead of 2x4, the box to trap drop should be 18-24", the trap to tee distance is less than 2x pipe diameter, the joints weren't cleaned before gluing & the studs need nail plates. Wasted 15 minutes of my life on this video & commenting.
S trap
Nice S trap, NOT! 🤢