I built a couple of F/Ford 1600 engines in the early 1980's, even though my favourite engine was the 2.0 Pinto. Both were reasonably competitive in the hands of fairly average drivers. Gratifying all these years later, to watch this video, and see that I did those engines fairly competently.😊
Thanks for watching. That's great to hear and I'm sure you were much more than competent! The early ford engines are a very cool thing, we still talk to guys frequently who are building Pinto's and crossflow's.
I don't know what reminded me of this, but the first engine I ever owned (1970) was a 1962 Ford 6 cylinder 170CI engine in a Falcon. Man I wish I still owned that car!
I respect the fact that you chose not to edit out the issue with the out-of-round ring compressor. This highlights that even very experienced technicians, like yourself, must be vigilant and attentive to every aspect of careful assembly of all components of any racecar. Well done, sir. 🫵👍
If you're using petroleum jelly on the seals, why not add some to the oil pump gears for better suction on initial start up, them melts away quickly as the engine warms?
What engine oil do you guys run in these? I have the same engine running 11.5/1 compression, forged pistons, stainless valves etc in a Lotus 7 replica I bought. Just wanting to be sure what oil to put in it. Cheers.
Thanks for watching, in this particular engine we are running the 20w50 RE11 KCK engine oil. We have also used the RE36 10w40 PAO racing oil with great success!
Whomever put that pump in with all of the silicone should have every tool he owns taken away from him. He has no business working on an engine. I'm with you on the seals - vaseline, and the oil pump - lots of assembly lube. With the thick assembly lube that I use it actually helps the oil pump prime quicker. Currently I am assembling 1974 MGB 1800 engine, and so far I see nothing that you are doing that I don't do. Clearances for bearings I am running tighter since it is a road engine, but in the past when working on racing engines I always ran looser tolerances. I can tell you are an old wrench with the way you handle a speed handle LOL!
Thanks for watching, there is a few factors that may change the final timing but a stepped dowel with an offset of between 0.9mm and 1.3mm seems to be the sweet spot.
I built a couple of F/Ford 1600 engines in the early 1980's, even though my favourite engine was the 2.0 Pinto. Both were reasonably competitive in the hands of fairly average drivers. Gratifying all these years later, to watch this video, and see that I did those engines fairly competently.😊
Thanks for watching. That's great to hear and I'm sure you were much more than competent! The early ford engines are a very cool thing, we still talk to guys frequently who are building Pinto's and crossflow's.
I love the in-depth longer video. So much great information.
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely Awesome series. So much detail. Thanks for producing this content.
Thank you for watching! We appreciate the feedback.
I don't know what reminded me of this, but the first engine I ever owned (1970) was a 1962 Ford 6 cylinder 170CI engine in a Falcon. Man I wish I still owned that car!
WOW!
I respect the fact that you chose not to edit out the issue with the out-of-round ring compressor.
This highlights that even very experienced technicians, like yourself, must be vigilant and attentive to every aspect of careful assembly of all components of any racecar.
Well done, sir. 🫵👍
Thanks for the kind words. It doesn't always go to plan, no good hiding it! Learn and move on.
Always find it pretty easy to just put an old set of spark plugs halfway in paint it and then take them out threads are all clean
@@jamesdungan6198 Thanks for watching and that's a great tip!
I use foam ear plugs in the threads to keep the paint out
Love these videos! Nice work
100% agree with final checks
Excellent idea! I'm doing that next time for sure.
I absolutely never use petroleum Jelly/Vaseline on rubber it rots rubber!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the tip!
I heard when cleaning cylinder bores with paper towels can leave lint on the surface and to use coffee filters as they are lint free.
Thanks for watching and great tip!
How much roughly is a top FF1600 engine in Australia? They are getting very expensive over here in the UK
The more you pay, the more power you get. It can get very expensive very quickly, unfortunately.
If you're using petroleum jelly on the seals, why not add some to the oil pump gears for better suction on initial start up, them melts away quickly as the engine warms?
Thanks for watching and excellent tip! The pump gears and shaft were coated in assembly lube to aid in the suction on initial start up.
What engine oil do you guys run in these? I have the same engine running 11.5/1 compression, forged pistons, stainless valves etc in a Lotus 7 replica I bought. Just wanting to be sure what oil to put in it. Cheers.
Thanks for watching, in this particular engine we are running the 20w50 RE11 KCK engine oil. We have also used the RE36 10w40 PAO racing oil with great success!
Whomever put that pump in with all of the silicone should have every tool he owns taken away from him. He has no business working on an engine. I'm with you on the seals - vaseline, and the oil pump - lots of assembly lube. With the thick assembly lube that I use it actually helps the oil pump prime quicker. Currently I am assembling 1974 MGB 1800 engine, and so far I see nothing that you are doing that I don't do. Clearances for bearings I am running tighter since it is a road engine, but in the past when working on racing engines I always ran looser tolerances. I can tell you are an old wrench with the way you handle a speed handle LOL!
Thanks for watching and we appreciate the feedback! Keep up the good work.
What cam timing do you run them at
Thanks for watching, there is a few factors that may change the final timing but a stepped dowel with an offset of between 0.9mm and 1.3mm seems to be the sweet spot.
Why spiro??😂
Great question! We are hoping it means something special to the car owner.