Thanks for this informative video. My speed sensors are out on my RX300 and that's not allowing the O2 and others to complete their cycle. I learned a lot from you on how to use my Centech scanner more effectively. Thank you. That was also a good tip on using universal sensor and swapping the connector piece.
Good video. I have always wanted a device that would auto run all vehicle monitors and make the pcm think it was hitting the right speeds and inputs so after the repair you could plug it in and let the vehicle run for half an hour and set all monitors. It should be standard on every scan tool, like a self test mode.
Autel has this feature for evap monitors, it works on very few vehicles while stationary though. I know kia/Hyundai I can perform a evap leak test and it'll run the evap monitor test during this time
my obd scanner for my beetle/audi would force everything to run or test which then showed it working unless there was a fault code.. self test mode etc
Hey man ... I appreciate all your chatter lol... you're more intelligent about these things than a lot of us who don't have a clue ... it is frustrating specially in California how smog test is so compartmented-where the smog tech will not offer any solutions for not passing- he's not a mechanic- drive cycles ? I didn't understand at first but so important for passing smog check in California- my question is - what was drive cycles used for ( besides good data for operating purposes) was this data just utilized on purpose by accident to basically have us millions of people who are unaware of such things, creating $$$$ for the state... there seems to be a conspiracy kinda thing here : it's like cancer treatments - it's meant to keep you coming back and $$$$ - is it possible that profit over people the case here? I really need to change my thinking and with enough of us our reality won't have such insane things like this that generates so much frustration and $$$ for solutions
I have Torque Lite that I use to check my emissions readiness. It says Emissions all pass, but the drive cycle isn't complete. What do? 06 RT Charger, just replaced the cats. I've been driving for over 150 miles. I've done all the cycles recommended for each of the incomplete drive cycle checks. Idk what to do. I'm going to run it for 200 miles (got an extension for my emissions and it's registered). That normally completes the cycle for me, but what the heck? City and Highway driving was done as well in that 150 miles.
I got an Infiniti QX56 2006 P0420codes Bank 1 and 2-I replaced both upstream 02 sensors erased codes drove it and the only cycles it has trouble with is 02sensors and Cat and when it does pass 02 sensors goes to CAT then all lights go green and throws check engine light on again
I'm getting a blinking Monitor icon, "EV", yellow LED indicator light, No DTC's presently stored in code reader's memory. Also, NO Engine light is presently showing on dashboard. I'm not a 100 mile guy at age 75, so it takes me a while to travel around town (don't travel) until a cycle is reached. It's been since May when a part was changed and codes cleared.
The voltage on my downward stream o2 sensors are "finished" which is why my smog fails. Do you think replacing them will help me have all my monitors complete and pass. I have a 2015 Challenger.
at 8 : 2 1 Scanner says " Erase Previously Stored Data to Save Data From This Test" and you selected "yes" and you erased everything. What do you expect when you see 4 monitors are INC, like "Oxygen Sen Mon" etc to read INC? You now have to do a drive cycle when you erase everything, don't see why you were confused on this INC status.
I'm currently dealing with the 02 and Evap monitors "Not Ready" on my 2017 WRX. I have some light modifications, including TGV deletes, GrimmSpeed boost solenoid, and a Cobb Big SF Air Intake. My tuner doesn't seem to want to help me with this issue, so I'm wondering what type of mechanic I should work with to figure this out? I a couple mechanics I've talked to don't want to touch my car because it has been tuned. I live in Massachusetts and I don't think they allow any of the monitors to be "Not Ready"
TGV, these are emissions related from what I understand. Typically if a car can't go through it sequential system test, it'll halt further testing. Not sure if you have check engine light, but if there things that have been "reprogrammed" or bypassed within the pcm, they're gonna have to be set back to standard settings, as id imagine that there aren't parameters that aren't being computed and car registering as pass or fail because, it's overlooked "bypassed" May have to have a stock computer and swap with your tuned when needing inspection.
customhonda yes, no warning lights come up. I'm starting to think they probably bypassed something in the tune. I hadn't heard off swapping computers before though. Thanks for the video!
@@brandonflaum5382 Sorry for the late response but sadly yes I did. I paid my Subaru dealer roughly the same amount I paid my tuner to bring it back to stock, which included a brand spanking new ECU. I will say that the stock tune turned out really well, it was actually better than when I drove it off the lot. I'm not sure what they did but the car drives better than when it was new.
Very helpful. Fixed my problem. Now I've got a problem with my evap monitor. It won't run during the drive cycles I've put it thru. Any ideas you have for this issue? Thanks. Phil
Great video thank you for the knowledge. I hope this works for me. 1997 grand Cherokee not completing Evap and catalyst. I need catalyst to pass so I can smog this sucker.
Sorry I have no idea what worked I drove it for 2 weeks and then it cycled all of my tests on my computer. I swapped out my 02 sensors and my throttl position sensor
Great video...I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler I already drive my Jeep over 1,000 miles on it and still Cat not ready! I got new 02 sensors, new catalytic and still nothing..I’m getting frustrated with this drive cycle? Any suggestions will help thank you..
Permanently attach a trickle charger plug on the battery and the car will not clear it’s computer when the battery goes dead . I learned my lesson with my jag that I rarely drive.
I’m having a P0158 come coming up on my 2006 4.0 Toyota 4Runner. Code reads high voltage on bank 2 sensor 2. Changed the sensor out and still having the same code. Now do you believe a successful drive cycle can fix the problem? Or will I have to check fuel pressure, catalytic failure, leaks, etc?
It Depend on how immediate the code returns after clearing. Situation 1, the code come back immediately, then you likely have a faulty new sensor, poor connection or broken connection. Such as ground for that o2 sensor or signal wire is broken going to pcm. Situation 2, the code come back after miles of driving, like a day or so after car has cooled. Then, your catalytic converter is inefficient. meaning, the mixture is excessively rich and there's low oxygen content inside the catalytic converter. But you should have a p0420 or p0430 follow up code. So based on your message. Situation 1, is gonna be likely your issue.
Likely no... Because most cars require deceleration enrichments to monitor egr and catalyst. Also looking at live data pids, the car utilize various sensors to determine proper drive cycle monitor testing conditions, so theres no engine load when cars on jack stands, therefore no steady "load percentage" value, meaning its not gonna go through its testing phase. Maybe something this old or pre 2000 but definitely nothing over 2000
Thank you for this video. I have a 2012 Civic and it failed smog because I had emissions recall work done at the dealership and from there went to get my smog check. All the monitors have since reset except for EVAP and O2 sensor and I’ve driven almost 100 miles. Is it supposed to take that long?
If Youre trying to pass inspection, check your local laws because here [as of late 2019] anything below 2000 require safety only inspection. To answer your question. Millage is dependant on vehicle requirements. If the car detects a fault or in this case, don't see drive cycle monitor requirements, the car will not attempt to complete monitor. I hate to say but theres no set millage. In a perfect world you'll be able to complete drive cycle under 50 miles. This car, once fixed took about 10-20 miles.
There is nothing worse than believing you are actually stupid!!!! Yes I know from experience! You are intelligent... I appreciate the effort you put into making sense of insanity 🔥 ❤
This one didn't do it though. Nor have any other engine I've done that to. This logic you have don't apply to any method I performed. Not sure how you manage to crack engines doing this. But your doing something wrong
Try checking the PIDs that hasn't completed its monitor and see if they're within range. If the component failed, replace the part. This the best general info I have.
They just put the stupid virus code for drive cycle. Drive until the car burn all the expensive gas and buy all device to fix until broke down everything. Good nuck
you said oil changes are pointless? that might be the dumbest thing I've ever heard, besides that good video. here in Texas, a vehicle from 1996 to 2000 that runs on gas and is under 8600 lbs can pass with 2 "not readys". a vehicle that is built from 2001 to present day runs on gas and is under 8600 lbs can pass with only one "not ready". lastly is you need a new battery, wtf u talm bout
Emission sensor won’t complete and now a bad tpms sensor will prevent inspection 🤣 Brand new bf Goodrich ko2 and meticulously monitoring tire pressure/ oil condition /level So basically I’m not a bum about maintenance
The most helpful and accurate portion of this video is when he says "I'm not the smartest person ... " Fuck I feel dumber after watching this video it was so ridiculous.
@@partsshooter i wont make a video but we can discuss it on Facebook "Riley's Garage". No disrespect intended, just seen something and thought it would be helpful to point it out.
@@partsshooter this is true, but the part that most stood out to me is the 20 degree difference between the air temp and the coolant temp, they should be between 7-10 degrees.
@@kcsnRiley yeah, that's actually fine. During a cold soak, the air temperature and coolant temperature needing to be "below 90 degree and "within 7" is an unofficial expectation, if this was mandatory the drive cycle wouldn't be considered, due to the fact the car uses these values to determine a cold start granting access to initiate drive cycle. I simply used the mandatory value that determine a cold start condition, Bellow 90 degrees. O2 Heater monitor...Evap... Cat monitoring require recognizing these values, if it was unacceptable the drive cycle wouldn't be considered to run these monitors. I'm sure there more strict requirements on newer vehicles slightly post millennium, which some May have timers however for late 90s vehicle, the intelligence isn't that grand! Just look at the narrow parameters and high voltage used to gather info, 10s placement vs the hundredths placement today [hundredths millivolt vs the tens of millivolt ] -I mention this to say, this car just isn't that intelligent to recognise and reject that 7 degree different, only mandating what's overall desired being below 90 degree.
Hey man ... I appreciate all your chatter lol... you're more intelligent about these things than a lot of us who don't have a clue ... it is frustrating specially in California how smog test is so compartmented-where the smog tech will not offer any solutions for not passing- he's not a mechanic- drive cycles ? I didn't understand at first but so important for passing smog check in California- my question is - what was drive cycles used for ( besides good data for operating purposes) was this data just utilized on purpose by accident to basically have us millions of people who are unaware of such things, creating $$$$ for the state... there seems to be a conspiracy kinda thing here : it's like cancer treatments - it's meant to keep you coming back and $$$$ - is it possible that profit over people the case here? I really need to change my thinking and with enough of us our reality won't have such insane things like this that generates so much frustration and $$$ for solutions
Thanks for this informative video. My speed sensors are out on my RX300 and that's not allowing the O2 and others to complete their cycle. I learned a lot from you on how to use my Centech scanner more effectively. Thank you. That was also a good tip on using universal sensor and swapping the connector piece.
Good video.
I have always wanted a device that would auto run all vehicle monitors and make the pcm think it was hitting the right speeds and inputs so after the repair you could plug it in and let the vehicle run for half an hour and set all monitors.
It should be standard on every scan tool, like a self test mode.
Autel has this feature for evap monitors, it works on very few vehicles while stationary though. I know kia/Hyundai I can perform a evap leak test and it'll run the evap monitor test during this time
my obd scanner for my beetle/audi would force everything to run or test which then showed it working unless there was a fault code.. self test mode etc
Hey man ... I appreciate all your chatter lol... you're more intelligent about these things than a lot of us who don't have a clue ... it is frustrating specially in California how smog test is so compartmented-where the smog tech will not offer any solutions for not passing- he's not a mechanic- drive cycles ? I didn't understand at first but so important for passing smog check in California- my question is - what was drive cycles used for ( besides good data for operating purposes) was this data just utilized on purpose by accident to basically have us millions of people who are unaware of such things, creating $$$$ for the state... there seems to be a conspiracy kinda thing here : it's like cancer treatments - it's meant to keep you coming back and $$$$ - is it possible that profit over people the case here? I really need to change my thinking and with enough of us our reality won't have such insane things like this that generates so much frustration and $$$ for solutions
I have Torque Lite that I use to check my emissions readiness. It says Emissions all pass, but the drive cycle isn't complete. What do? 06 RT Charger, just replaced the cats. I've been driving for over 150 miles. I've done all the cycles recommended for each of the incomplete drive cycle checks. Idk what to do. I'm going to run it for 200 miles (got an extension for my emissions and it's registered). That normally completes the cycle for me, but what the heck? City and Highway driving was done as well in that 150 miles.
I got an Infiniti QX56 2006 P0420codes Bank 1 and 2-I replaced both upstream 02 sensors erased codes drove it and the only cycles it has trouble with is 02sensors and Cat and when it does pass 02 sensors goes to CAT then all lights go green and throws check engine light on again
I'm getting a blinking Monitor icon, "EV", yellow LED indicator light, No DTC's presently stored in code reader's memory. Also, NO Engine light is presently showing on dashboard. I'm not a 100 mile guy at age 75, so it takes me a while to travel around town (don't travel) until a cycle is reached. It's been since May when a part was changed and codes cleared.
The voltage on my downward stream o2 sensors are "finished" which is why my smog fails. Do you think replacing them will help me have all my monitors complete and pass. I have a 2015 Challenger.
Which Autel is that the big one?
at 8 : 2 1 Scanner says " Erase Previously Stored Data to Save Data From This Test" and you selected "yes" and you erased everything. What do you expect when you see 4 monitors are INC, like "Oxygen Sen Mon" etc to read INC? You now have to do a drive cycle when you erase everything, don't see why you were confused on this INC status.
I'm currently dealing with the 02 and Evap monitors "Not Ready" on my 2017 WRX. I have some light modifications, including TGV deletes, GrimmSpeed boost solenoid, and a Cobb Big SF Air Intake. My tuner doesn't seem to want to help me with this issue, so I'm wondering what type of mechanic I should work with to figure this out? I a couple mechanics I've talked to don't want to touch my car because it has been tuned. I live in Massachusetts and I don't think they allow any of the monitors to be "Not Ready"
TGV, these are emissions related from what I understand. Typically if a car can't go through it sequential system test, it'll halt further testing.
Not sure if you have check engine light, but if there things that have been "reprogrammed" or bypassed within the pcm, they're gonna have to be set back to standard settings, as id imagine that there aren't parameters that aren't being computed and car registering as pass or fail because, it's overlooked "bypassed"
May have to have a stock computer and swap with your tuned when needing inspection.
customhonda yes, no warning lights come up. I'm starting to think they probably bypassed something in the tune. I hadn't heard off swapping computers before though. Thanks for the video!
@@user-ek5sm8hf2b did you have to go to ur stock tune
dang all.. they should at least allow one to be not ready.. Even in california they allow one to be not ready
@@brandonflaum5382 Sorry for the late response but sadly yes I did. I paid my Subaru dealer roughly the same amount I paid my tuner to bring it back to stock, which included a brand spanking new ECU. I will say that the stock tune turned out really well, it was actually better than when I drove it off the lot. I'm not sure what they did but the car drives better than when it was new.
Thank You!
Very helpful. Fixed my problem. Now I've got a problem with my evap monitor. It won't run during the drive cycles I've put it thru. Any ideas you have for this issue? Thanks. Phil
Great video thank you for the knowledge. I hope this works for me. 1997 grand Cherokee not completing Evap and catalyst. I need catalyst to pass so I can smog this sucker.
Did it work? I cant clear those monitors as well, been driving it well over 100 miles
Sorry I have no idea what worked I drove it for 2 weeks and then it cycled all of my tests on my computer. I swapped out my 02 sensors and my throttl position sensor
Great video...I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler I already drive my Jeep over 1,000 miles on it and still Cat not ready! I got new 02 sensors, new catalytic and still nothing..I’m getting frustrated with this drive cycle? Any suggestions will help thank you..
Nope, having the same issue and It’s got a brand new battery so I guess that’s not the issue? Don’t know what else to do? I gave up.
Thank you i'm learning this big field of diagnostics is like a jigsaw puzzle the more vid's you watch the more you piece together.
Yes! Even then it's still frustrating! 😆
Permanently attach a trickle charger plug on the battery and the car will not clear it’s computer when the battery goes dead . I learned my lesson with my jag that I rarely drive.
I’m having a P0158 come coming up on my 2006 4.0 Toyota 4Runner. Code reads high voltage on bank 2 sensor 2. Changed the sensor out and still having the same code. Now do you believe a successful drive cycle can fix the problem? Or will I have to check fuel pressure, catalytic failure, leaks, etc?
It Depend on how immediate the code returns after clearing. Situation 1, the code come back immediately, then you likely have a faulty new sensor, poor connection or broken connection. Such as ground for that o2 sensor or signal wire is broken going to pcm.
Situation 2, the code come back after miles of driving, like a day or so after car has cooled. Then, your catalytic converter is inefficient. meaning, the mixture is excessively rich and there's low oxygen content inside the catalytic converter. But you should have a p0420 or p0430 follow up code. So based on your message. Situation 1, is gonna be likely your issue.
@@partsshooter Thanks a lot man!! Really appreciate it
I have an 08 Mustang having a hard time going through the drive cycle don't know what to do to need to get inspected
Sell it. Get a Geo or a sidewalk scooter..
Can you put the car on jackstands instead of driving around like a madman for drive cycle?
Likely no... Because most cars require deceleration enrichments to monitor egr and catalyst. Also looking at live data pids, the car utilize various sensors to determine proper drive cycle monitor testing conditions, so theres no engine load when cars on jack stands, therefore no steady "load percentage" value, meaning its not gonna go through its testing phase.
Maybe something this old or pre 2000 but definitely nothing over 2000
Good question...
Thank you for this video. I have a 2012 Civic and it failed smog because I had emissions recall work done at the dealership and from there went to get my smog check. All the monitors have since reset except for EVAP and O2 sensor and I’ve driven almost 100 miles. Is it supposed to take that long?
@@partsshooter Me putting my jack stands away >:(
@@marineranegrita geez... Apologies, RUclips never notified me of your comment.
You loco vato??? Why the violence, homes?
😢😂 That's funny.. bro.. lol😅🤗🤭😊
How many miles do you got to have it be good to go
If Youre trying to pass inspection, check your local laws because here [as of late 2019] anything below 2000 require safety only inspection.
To answer your question. Millage is dependant on vehicle requirements. If the car detects a fault or in this case, don't see drive cycle monitor requirements, the car will not attempt to complete monitor. I hate to say but theres no set millage.
In a perfect world you'll be able to complete drive cycle under 50 miles. This car, once fixed took about 10-20 miles.
I have a 07 cadillac srx that's having similar problems where are u located in nc i live in nc too ? Thanks for the help and i subed your channel
Thanks... But these videos aren't for buisness solicitation.😎
I'm sorry my bad, Thanks anyway!!!
What kind of scanner are you using ?
Looks like an autel
Why the violence, homes???
So with the EVAP incomplete will pass the inspection???
Yes... Here v youre allowed 1 incomplete code. Laws have change since the video and now anything below '01 require safety inspection only
@@partsshooter thanks. Have a nice day.
There is nothing worse than believing you are actually stupid!!!! Yes I know from experience!
You are intelligent... I appreciate the effort you put into making sense of insanity
🔥
❤
Thanks man!
Pouring water on a hot engine can cause the metal to crack due to rapid contraction.
This one didn't do it though. Nor have any other engine I've done that to. This logic you have don't apply to any method I performed. Not sure how you manage to crack engines doing this. But your doing something wrong
0:07 facts
I drove mine 600 miles. No codes. Cat still not ready.
Try checking the PIDs that hasn't completed its monitor and see if they're within range. If the component failed, replace the part.
This the best general info I have.
@@partsshooter Ok. Im trying everything.
They just put the stupid virus code for drive cycle. Drive until the car burn all the expensive gas and buy all device to fix until broke down everything. Good nuck
you said oil changes are pointless? that might be the dumbest thing I've ever heard, besides that good video. here in Texas, a vehicle from 1996 to 2000 that runs on gas and is under 8600 lbs can pass with 2 "not readys". a vehicle that is built from 2001 to present day runs on gas and is under 8600 lbs can pass with only one "not ready". lastly is you need a new battery, wtf u talm bout
Emission sensor won’t complete and now a bad tpms sensor will prevent inspection 🤣 Brand new bf Goodrich ko2 and meticulously monitoring tire pressure/ oil condition /level
So basically I’m not a bum about maintenance
What are you talking about?
The most helpful and accurate portion of this video is when he says "I'm not the smartest person ... "
Fuck I feel dumber after watching this video it was so ridiculous.
Me too... I'd hit the dislike on all his videos if I was you
Wow turned from this video, just get to the point on what to do shhhzzzz
a lot of what your saying is not correct.
Make a video explaining what I said that's incorrect and we can discuss on a live feed one day. Thanks
@@partsshooter i wont make a video but we can discuss it on Facebook "Riley's Garage". No disrespect intended, just seen something and thought it would be helpful to point it out.
@@kcsnRiley no problem... I'm open. However just know that drive cycles are general, this isn't conclusive for ALL vehicle manufactures.
@@partsshooter this is true, but the part that most stood out to me is the 20 degree difference between the air temp and the coolant temp, they should be between 7-10 degrees.
@@kcsnRiley yeah, that's actually fine. During a cold soak, the air temperature and coolant temperature needing to be "below 90 degree and "within 7" is an unofficial expectation, if this was mandatory the drive cycle wouldn't be considered, due to the fact the car uses these values to determine a cold start granting access to initiate drive cycle. I simply used the mandatory value that determine a cold start condition, Bellow 90 degrees.
O2 Heater monitor...Evap... Cat monitoring require recognizing these values, if it was unacceptable the drive cycle wouldn't be considered to run these monitors.
I'm sure there more strict requirements on newer vehicles slightly post millennium, which some May have timers however for late 90s vehicle, the intelligence isn't that grand! Just look at the narrow parameters and high voltage used to gather info, 10s placement vs the hundredths placement today [hundredths millivolt vs the tens of millivolt ] -I mention this to say, this car just isn't that intelligent to recognise and reject that 7 degree different, only mandating what's overall desired being below 90 degree.
Just get to the point
Hey man ... I appreciate all your chatter lol... you're more intelligent about these things than a lot of us who don't have a clue ... it is frustrating specially in California how smog test is so compartmented-where the smog tech will not offer any solutions for not passing- he's not a mechanic- drive cycles ? I didn't understand at first but so important for passing smog check in California- my question is - what was drive cycles used for ( besides good data for operating purposes) was this data just utilized on purpose by accident to basically have us millions of people who are unaware of such things, creating $$$$ for the state... there seems to be a conspiracy kinda thing here : it's like cancer treatments - it's meant to keep you coming back and $$$$ - is it possible that profit over people the case here? I really need to change my thinking and with enough of us our reality won't have such insane things like this that generates so much frustration and $$$ for solutions