How to Replace Oil Pump GM LS motors 4.8 5.3 6.0 6.2 Silverado Sierra Escalade, etc.
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- Опубликовано: 26 дек 2021
- How to replace an oil pump on most GM LS motors, 1999 and up Silverado, GMC Sierra, Escalade, anything with the 4.8 5.3 6.0 6.2 LS motors.
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Melling Stock Oil Pump: ebay.us/umAjA2
Melling high volume oil pump: ebay.us/w3xvEv
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OTC-6667 Damper Puller: amzn.to/3sEpica
Melling standard oil pump: amzn.to/3FxJkso
Melling high flow oil pump: amzn.to/3JkuYOj - Хобби
That bottom "rail" gasket... you didn't get ripped off. The bottom "lip" that you see is actually the oil pan gasket. No problem putting a little bit of RTV down there. I don't recommend doing the grinding on the tab to the oil pickup... while it's on the motor, over the oil pan. All those metal shavings you cut off go right into your oil pan. You also should add oil to the pump before installing it. Then remove the ignition and fuel pump fuses, and turn the key to prime the pump until you see oil pressure. You also went from a stock oil pump to a high volume oil pump. To find the proper o- ring to use, it all depends on the type of oil pickup tube used between straight tube or flared. There should be a "notice" included directing you how to figure out what color o-ring to use . Other things to consider are rod bearings, new oil pickup tube, main bearings, timing chain and of course, always use new gaskets. Make sure to torque all bolts to spec. I will be doing this same thing on my 2006 suburban 6.0 tomorrow. I already removed cv axles, front diff, drive shaft, replaced rod bearings, removed oil pan, baffle/windage plate, Next is main bearings, oil pump, new oil pickup tube and o-ring, water pump, thermostat, plugs, wires, new gaskets throughout. Over all a good video. I appreciate the "rawness" of the video, the honesty of complication, and not making it look "easy" via editing. Whoever does this, just take your time, label things, keep everything clean, watch out for foreign metal shavings and dirt. My suburban has 364,000 miles. An LS motor over 300,000 miles, the high volume oil pump is recommended due to enlarged/ greater clearances ON BEARINGS due to mileage wear and tear. A high volume pump IS NOT recommended for vehicles with LESS than 300,000 miles. The extra volume pressure may cause leaks. Good luck everyone.
Very good demonstration! You just made me about 800 bucks
STRAIGHT TO THE POINT..NICE VIDEO MATE ...THANK-YOU VERY MUCH.!!
Thanks! Hope the video helped.
Clutch move with the pick up tube cutting the tab. Saves dropping pan
You have a MIL on! Great video- this is perfect only for 2wd!! YOU CAN DO IT!!
Nice video, very helpful
Great video I need to do this to my 2008 gmc Yukon Denali
Very helpful, thank you foe you effort 👌
Thanks for a very helpful video.
Thanks for the comment, glad it helped.
That “gasket” you’re pointing out at the bottom, below the oil pump is the oil pan gasket.
Handy video, others show dropping the pan, a huge job as it involves removing the differential as well. Very clever getting the pick-up tube on, am going to use this method on my 2000 4.8, thanks. Jim
Thanks bud, that's what I'm getting ready to do, my 2000 GMC has almost 300K and the oil pressure gauge is doing the same thing, I replaced the sender while crossing my fingers but, of course that didn't work so here I go. Hey, what's that shirt you are wearing say?
How many hours did it take?
Do I have to mark harmonic balancer when removing it for oil pump replacement?
No, you don't need to mark anything on the harmonic balancer.
It has a slot key I believe, can only go one one way
I was wondering what the oil pressure was after the repair thanks.
Oil pressure was over 40, although would go lower (maybe in the low 30's) at idle while at a stop light.
@@ucanduitdude2317 mine is around 30 at idle when hot so getting ready to tackle it doesn’t look like it’s going to be fun.
Never knew it was in front of the timing chain
I have a balancer installer kit
Why why why didn't you replace the timing chain can't you see how loose it is on there! Oh well too late now
I did think about it. Was also going to put a new cam in, but thought I would get a different pickup by now. 50,000 miles later I still have it.
I disagree with the way this guy does stuff if you're watching this video make sure you watch other videos to see where mistakes are made on this one so you do not screw up your motor.
No mistakes. 50,000 miles later and still running awesome.
Ignore Steve!! It’s a solid video- just remember this is a 2wd application. Good work man
Yup. 1 yr later and you're still helping people out.
Diving into my 08escaladeESV awd this weekend. Just prob gonna add the chain & water pump as well.
Thank you !
@777trader8 your suppost to remove the oil pan and not finagal anything or pry on anything. O ring can easily get messed up. Also shouldn't be grinding on the tab while the oil pan is directly under it . That *gasket* didn't come with his kit is the whole oilpan gasket he's referring to ... even harder for u and me cause we got awd escalade so in order to remove the pan we have to drop the front differential to get the pan off. Do it right don't try to skip steps your already there. . Also use a new crank shaft balancer bolt .
@@777trader8also tourque everything correctly or it'll leak a year or 2 later I assure you !!! The hot and cold back and forth will expand and shrink the seals then u got winter and summer doing it to . It will leak .